Chrysler/VW 3.2 and 3.6 Rocker Arm Replacement Part 2
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
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Motorcity Mechanic
P.O. Box 240
Grovetown Ga, 30813
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Literally the most thorough video I've seen on this topic by a landslide! Massive thanks to this guy and all the effort he put in!
I'll now comfortably be attempting this repair 🤞
How did it go?
@@christopherbrown3614 It went well, just go slow and take your time. It's been running quiet for a while now.
However I only did one side and I wish I would have done but since I was so far in the engine anyway. Might as well
best video ever to sell my Chrysler asap as Im going back to Honda where you never need to do this as its as if Chrysler planned this by selling the tools required while Honda doesnt.
This has to be the best UA-cam tutorial video I have ever watched. Thank you for doing it and explaining everything so well. You saved me a ton of money. I was going to try it but I wouldn’t have known about releasing the tension. After I got it going, I changed oil and the spring in the oil filter went flying, you showed me what that problem was as well. I owe you lunch or a beer, can I PayPal you a tip?
Excellent video. Two CRITICAL steps that weren’t mentioned but made all the difference: 1.) To remove tension on the right side timing chain, you MUST rotate the crank slightly clockwise in order to put the tensioner under slight tension or the special tool will not be able to release the tensioner (there are other videos that do cover this - do yourself a favor and look them up before you break your special tool like I did), 2.) On the left side, the trick of putting the cam into the neutral position by rotating it 30-degrees ALSO needs to be done to the exhaust cam (not just the intake cam). I did find that zip-tying the phasers and phaser locking block saved a lot of heartache. I also did notice that if you’re struggling to get the phaser back onto the camshaft, it’s an alignment issue as there’s a key guide on the cams that you need to line up just right, so work on slight rotation of the cam rather than wiggling and praying. Overall, amazing video!
Do you mean rotate the crankshaft down below or one of the camshafts when working on right side?
No one will explain it to you better than him.👍
Hi Ryan: Is this the video you referred to
ua-cam.com/video/1tSZOWqtMe4/v-deo.html
Link?
@@Carlos-qz3uq ua-cam.com/video/1tSZOWqtMe4/v-deo.htmlsi=NL7lrrXGi0HMY4d8
MotorCity Mechanic - I am amazed that you do this level of instruction for common folk like me. I have a 132k 2012 Chrysler T&C and used your videos to replace all of the lifters, rockers, a camshaft, plugs, and oil cooler (metal replacement). The coil boots were ok. It worked perfectly! The engine is now quiet and powerful and feels like new. My mechanic wouldn't even touch it, said he would be willing to swap engines with a recycled engine, but not replace the above. I greatly appreciate the assistance, please keep making great videos. Lunch is on me.👏
Many thanks!
I never understand why techs won’t work I them. There are over 12,000,000 on the road and in a lot of Chrysler videos. As you saw….it can be done, just need to take your time. Personally I rather do this then an engine
My mechanic said the same thing I'll replace the engine but I can fix that.
@stevenstewart2898 You can do it. My van is still running great. Like he said, take your time, do a step at a time. I tag my connections, write every step down as I did it. Came back together perfectly. Good luck, post your results. Thank again @MotorCityMechanic
This 2 part series was absolutely perfect! Everything you need to know and nothing you don’t, plus clear and concise. I’m a professional tech, but I’m about to do this job for the first time, and I have the tool kit, but the video visual of the special tools vs the service manual has given me complete confidence in tackling this job. Thanks!
Excellent work Mr. Pike! I am so appreciative of the meticulous detail in this video. I have 50 years experience as a mechanic, Certified Master Tech in 1986 and I must say that I am extremely impressed with your effort!! Thank you Sir!!
This is like 3.6 Pentastar for dummies and that’s a great compliment as you made it so easy to fully understand how to do a very intricate job for most. I have mechanical skills, but for anyone just learning you’re the perfect teacher. Thanks again 🎉🎉🎉
Never thought about calling it that before 😂. I will take it as a compliment and many thanks! Make sure to subscribe
I agree with you but I believe it should be: Simple Pentastar Repair for the Poor Dummy Owner. Brought to by the Dummies who Engineered and Designed a literal ticking time 💣 of an engine
This man has saved me so much money. Just replaced one camshaft all 12 rocker's and lifters on the right side.
Thank you so much for putting this series together. I'm a shadetree Jeep guy up in Canada, and I just did rockers and lifters, both sides, plus oil cooler, plugs, and PCV valve, on my 2012 Wrangler. Most complex job I've ever done. I probbably watched these two videos five or ten times each to prepare and was fast forwarding and replaying them in the garage as I worked. Plus a bunch of your other Pentastar vids. Successful project that never in a million years would I have thought I could pull off a few years ago. Mind blown. Many, many thanks to your excellent and clear explanation.
Great video as always David. Keep up the great work. Am 68 with a back that hurts so probably try and have someone else do it or take me a few weeks. Try and find a kid that wants to learn and teach them something. I know easier said then done these days. When I was 12 I would jump at helping people at the gas station just as long as they taught me at the same time as I was helping them. I did not want any money just knowledge. I cleaned a lot of parts but they showed me how things came apart and went back together. That was priceless.
I’m starting this tomorrow on my wife’s van. Due to inflation I can’t afford to take it somewhere we are already in the edge with groceries, gas, and rent.
Last of the true mechanics.
You make an intimating job look easy! As always, great informative video!
Sometimes its just about seeing it laid out step by step to make it feel easy. I try my best to get as many camera angles to point out those details that others leave out
Bro honestly I watched probably 10 videos on how to do this job and your video made me 100% comfortable doing it myself!!✅✅✅✅
Just knocked this job out on my 2013 Durango. Thank you so much for the step by step. These are the most thorough videos (part 1 & 2) for this repair that I found. 👍
Did you do both sides? How long did it take you?
Thank you David, I just finished replacing 12 rocker arms on the left side of my 3.6 Dodge Avenger. Followed your video step by step, and everything turned out perfect. Your videos are a great support. Thank again.
Caution, I found loose oil galley plugs, check these upon disassembly.
Between the cylinder head and the timing chain and gear, there are two oil galley plugs (bolts). These oil galley plugs are threaded and have a 13 mm head. On bank two at 140K miles, I found both bolts loose and working their way out. As a long retired engine builder, I found this to be an outstanding video and very helpful. Attention to detail is paramount and this guy has it.
I second that. Found the same thing.
Just completed my first rocker arm replacement in my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and your videos were instrumental in getting the job done. Keep up the good work!
It’s a big job so my hats off to you for taking it on. Thanks for watching/using my videos.
Hopefully I don't have these engine issues with my 2018 GC when it ages in miles my understanding the 2016 and up models engines been redesign by chrysler so time will tell🤷🏿🤦🏿😂😂🤣🤣😂
@@MotorCityMechanic Great video , Can I ask a question? My 2016 Jeep Wrangler/Rubicon has 29.400 miles and just stopped running one day on the way home from the store, It will not start, does turn over but just can't start, TRIES TO , My mechanic says after a bit of checking that its probably a broken cam or parts associated to it, Off the top of your head, what would you guess is wrong? the noise is on the right side, Nothing real loud or grinding, thanks,
HI , Up date,!! My mechanic said he did not remove valve cover on the right side but did hear noises like a lifter problem AND he pulled all 3 plugs on the right side and found gas all over the plugs and some in all e cylinders,
The most comprehensive video I’ve seen on this- well presented and organized. Thank you
You just saved me $1,700 in labour. My man!!
All done and the ticking is gone. One tip. When doing the right (back head) there is very little clearance to put the 36mm socket on the oil nut that attaches the phaser to the cam. I cut the special tool that is wedged between the sprockets to allow access to the rear one to torque it to the 118 ft/lbs. Also when using the tool to release the chain tension, I used a little never seize on the outside part of the tool. This allows it to slide it easier. Great video!
I did the exact same thing lol. I have always wished I mentioned that in the video.
Dear David, another awesome video. You show all the little details and tricks to keep the parts in line and in proper order. I wish more mechanics were as detail oriented as you. Keep up the great work. It's really nice to see how clean stuff is too, even if our shops have messy areas, lets keep this area clean and neat for the video. Great job, I know it took hours to get this edited just right. You did an awesome job man. The sound quality is great, camera angles great, torque sequence proper. Very cool on putting numbers on the bolt heads/Torx. Keep it clean, Jim
Just did this project on my 2014 Town and Country. Thank you so much for this great video (1&2). It gave me the confidence to do it and your helpful hints and specs along the way were awesome. When I was done she purred like new. Game changer for me…you ROCK!
@David... I've said it before, you are a blessing and we appreciate what you do for this community. I'll be doing this job maybe this weekend. Heck, this seems easier then when I followed your vide for the Oil Filter Housing replacement.. Thanks again, and you got blessings coming your way soon.
Thank you for this video. I just finished this job on my ‘15 200 and your step by step instructions and descriptions were exactly what I needed to get ‘er done. Not necessarily an easy job but certainly not outside the capabilities of a competent DIYer.
Thank you! Followed your video exactly. Tick gone and saved a ton of money!!
David - this is by far, THE BEST video I’ve ever seen and, because of it, I was able to replace the rocker arms and lifters on the left side cylinder head in my 2016 JKU Wrangler ALL BY MYSELF!!! This video just saved me about $2,700 from the dealership! Thank you so much for such great content!
Awesome! It’s always great to hear how the videos help
In regards to the lifters, did you see any damage, if not how soon did you catch on to the ticking?
David. ...u are a master. Thanks so much for these 2 videos. You are #1 in MOPAR info
Always glad to help
I have to say this is one of the best automotive video I have ever seen. I don't think any information was left out of this video. Anyone watching this video with any mechanical ability would have no problem performing this job. Great video !
Thanks Joe! Those were very kind words and I feel honored
Heh, something very important! I just stumbled across a UA-cam short about catastrophic engine failures on these due to the 13mm oil galley bolts (right below the cam phasers) coming loose and/or falling out. They either chew up the phaser sending metal parts into the engine, also causing a loss of oil pressure. Some mechanically lock up the engine too. Ugh. While your video was otherwise perfect for this job, I decided to check my bolts, and although mine weren't walking out yet, they had no torque left on them....they were just barely seated, so I'd call them loose, and I'm only at 60,000 miles. I was too nervous to remove the phaser from the chain to get to these with a socket. (torque spec is 9ft/lbs - some have run them up to 20 with no trouble), so here is what I did.
One by one, I loosened each one off about 4 threads with an open ended wrench and my fingers, then tucked a microfibre towel underneath the loose bolt. I then sprayed a little brake cleaner on the threads to get as much oil as possible off of the threads, then dried it with a shot of compressed air. I then put a small tube on my Loctite 262 bottle to extend it's reach and applied a liberal amount of red Loctite to the threads. I ran them up and got them nice and snug with the open end of a 13mm wrench. It a really tight spot, but I was able to get all 4 of them. I didn't dare remove the bolts all the way for fear of dropping them down in there, or even being able to re-start the threads, and apparently you don't want to get magnets anywhere near the cam phasers. So I did the best I could without pulling the timing cover off which would add hours and complexity to the lifter/roller-rocker replacement I'm doing.
Very pathetic that Stellantis would use steel bolts like this in aluminum heads to plug oil galleys and not have any sort of thread sealer / locking agent or other more durable method to ensure they won't come out. An allen head pipe plug with thread seal would be a much better choice! For those reading this, CHECK YOUR GALLEY BOLTS! Not much point in dropping in $500 worth of lifters & rockers if it's just gonna go bang from a bolt that falls out soon!
I decided to tackle this first before proceeding with the work shown in this video. Now that I've tacked this (it was tricky) moving on with the rest! Cheers!
These videos allowed me to save a ton of money on repairs! Thank you for such a thorough explanation and walkthrough!
Videos are the best Ive seen and didnt expect my wedge block to pop out while torquing the phaser oil bolts.UHG,Seems to have jumped a tooth ,marks dont line up ,about1/4" off.Any help on how to get it back in time would be great ly appreciated.thanks David.
This video got me encouraged to work on the 2015 chrysler 300 for that annoying ticking noise. David, thank you
so much, I really appreciate you spending so much time with explaining everything very well in the videos as well as the editing quality on those videos.
This guy is a real rockstar!
I'm doing my 2014 promaster for the same ticking sound. Have a hell of a time getting the bolts out for the cam phasers!
Hey David,hope your doing well,question? When ready to start up engine after cam replacements,how do tje chain guide oil pressure devices pump up before engine starts.Do they pump up automatically?.thanks
You know your engines, but I am most impressed by your ability to lay the whole process out and articulate it so clearly. I'm getting ready to do the oil filter assembly and rockers this weekend. Thank you sir.
These 2 episodes helped me out a lot brother. Thank you for the awesome help and lesson. Keep it up
Thank you so much for making this video and covering so much information and specs. . It helped immensely while replacing my lifters and rockers on my 2014 3.6l v6 Durango. Can’t thank you enough!
What was your issue
Hi David, after finishing the job I have the following codes and misfire on bank 2.
P0019
Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position
Correlation Bank 2 Sensor B
P000C
"A" Camshaft Position Slow Response
Bank 2
Have you seen this before? I believe this is an issue with bank 2 exhaust. Appreciate any guidance.
Thanks, David. Great series, and thank you for posting both episodes on the same day!
Your welcome.....no need in keeping you waiting for part 2. In the past I use to space them out just. It’s funny looking at the numbers....part 2 has more views then part 1. Guess some are jumping straight to the punch line lol
Soy salvadoreño......... thanks show me how the tools work and I appreciate your time.saludos desde la Florida USA 🇺🇸 bendiciones
You deserve an award for this video! Probably Chrysler dealer mechanics playing this on their phone as they work. Or we should hope so.
By now I would hope they know this repairs frontwards and backwards lol. Thanks for the kind words
A Tech Tip fellas : if u Rotate engine after u are COMPLETELY DONE .. u may see slack at 1 spot While rotating then it gets bac tight ..It's because tensioner are oil Primary driven .. So I disable spark ..Lightly Spinned Engine wit Starter 3 diff times spacing out cranks ..Then I went bac rotated engine checking For slack in chan ,& Timing marks ..:;:;'tensioner was primed chain was tight ..& My Marks was still on point👍🏾 .This guy is excellent instructor I must add
Wow. I'm getting ready to do this on my 15 GC. I tend to get pretty serious job anxiety before if jobs and this will be the most critical work I've done yet, this video is quite the confidence builder.
Thanks David! I'll let you all know how it went in a few weeks 👍
How did it go?
@@adrianallen3406 I still haven't done it. Money got tight and winter happened. Hopefully I'll get to it by the end of this month.
@@adrianallen3406 I pulled the bank 1 (rear) valve cover and had two cam lobes so badly worn it needed to be replaced. I figured at that point I should see what was up with the other and the cams were ok but there were a few bad rockers. Based on the cost it turned out to be less expensive to replace the motor so it's at a shop having that done now.
I was torn between living with the tick and causing further damage or paying large sums of money to a franchise mechanic shop. I just successfully completed replacing 2 cams and all of the rockers and lifters in my 2014 Town and Country and I wouldn't have attempted it if it had not been for your video. With many of the automotive shops now charging labor @ $125 per hour - and higher- and with their monster markup on the price of parts too, owning and maintaining an out-of-warranty vehicle is becoming almost economically impossible for a lot of folks that may live on the lower end of the money ladder. Of course, buying a new or used car is out of the question for many people these days as well. High quality (best I've seen!) videos such as yours gives us a fighting chance! Well done Sir and THANK YOU!
Thank you dav it’s really a great video with a lot of information 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks for taking the time to watch this series
David, you give real accurate specs and all important details and sequence on the correct procedure to successfully perform this technical job.
Well done. Keep up the good work.
Thank you.
Thanks For That Video, Just What I Asked For Before...
Your welcome. Been wanting to make it for a long time.
Thank you, thank you. I only ran in to 1 problem. That was when I assembled my 1st cam I put cam back in at 30° out in the rest position. I did not realize that the cam phaser and the cam were slotted. That held me up for about an hour and I thought for sure that I had done some major damage. But once I relaxed, I realized and rotated the cam back and lined up the holes and everything assembled very easily. Once again, thank you you gave me the confidence to try this on my own and save money. Please continue.
Love the torque specs, thanks brother
Glad you enjoyed. I try to include them as much as possible when ever I can
Excellent video! Thanks. I told my wife to let me know if she ever hears the slightest of ticks on her Jeep. It's just started now only when idling for 15 minutes or so, so we caught it in time. Going to order 24 rockers and lifters and get to work.
Does this issue affect the motor to where its best to swap the motor instead of fixing it and is it an expensive fix? Most mechanics I've talked to about this don't wanna touch and say to get a new motor???
thanks for this! The job doesn't sound as intimidating now, knowing that these tools exist to keep the chains in place while pulling the cams. I'm about to buy a van with this engine, and failing rocker arms are my biggest fear with the 3.6
Hopefully you never have to but if you do just take your time
So useful information. Thank you!
Always happy to help!
This is great! I am in this section of my engine now, learned a lot by watching your tutorial; in my case I am taking the whole engine apart, it was hydro locked, could not move the crankshaft but once out of the bay, once I could separate tranny, used a breaker bar with a cheater bar and with immense effort got to rotate the crank and remove the torque converter, so finally engine is in the engine stand and I am starting to take it all apart; learning as I go; your tutorial has lot of details and explanations as to how everything works and things to look for; my engine has about 68k miles as it was a replacement under warranty after a spun bearing in the factory engine at 59k miles, the hydro locked was warranty denied by both Mopar and my insurance, hence I have to do it myself, can not afford you guys but with tutorials like this it is possible; I overhauled another engine for a Toyota Corolla once already, so no my first rodeo and I installed a half lift in my garage which helps a lot and makes the process less painful. What have me scratching my head is when putting it back together how do I align it for the timing? as I am opening everything the heads so far looks fantastic and I will check everything as recommended for tolerances and excessive wear but I think this engine could give another 100k after back together again, once back together still I have the mopar lifetime warranty and hope their would honor if anything fails. The maintenance have been spot on, and I can confirm by the look of the components inside; always follow the oils changes makes a hell of a difference!
Thanks for the great video, I’m just wondering if you think the Baxter spin on filter anti-drain back oil valve would benefit the 3.6 at all? Thank you keep up the great videos
Personally I don’t see a reason for it. I don’t feel it addresses any problem. Appreciate you watching
David,
My 2015 Wrangler just started developing a tick. I'm in the process of buying the tools and the parts needed for this repair. Would you recommend OE or aftermarket lifters and rockers, and if aftermarket, would you have brands and part numbers?
Thyanks,
Joe
I recommend the Mopar replacement parts on something this big
Excellent teacher, How much is the cost for fix that problem ? I have that tick noise in my 2015 3.6 motor just 104,000 miles in the motor 😢
Average is around $1800-$2000 as long as it doesn’t need camshafts
Many thanks for this video. Successful job complete all thanks to you. Rocker,lifter,camshaft, allowed me to do it on the cheap and save thousands. Also changed the plugs and leaky oil cooler.
Sounds like it’s ready for another 100,000 miles! Great job and thanks for the comment
I don’t ever comment on videos, but these videos were a key reference point as I got brave and took on this job. Only one failed and noisy rocker that I caught early so the cam was fine. Thank you for discussing that some minor wear is fine. I replaced all rockers, lifters, plugs, gaskets, and more and it runs great again and no more ticking! Thank you!
@@jlambo9757 awesome! Great job and my hats off to you for taking this repair on. Glad it turned out great. Again…..thank you
The best presentation on a subject to date on UA-cam hat tip to you sir thank you for posting SUBCRIBED
Thanks for the sub and feedback!
My wife's dream car has a 3.6 Pentastar. I was very worried about this motor. This video gives me the assurance that with enough time, I can do this job. I wonder if David has a video about fixing blend doors that fall off?
probably the most informative repair video i have ever seen, extremely good work
incredibly thorough video. I have a '19 Jeep w/3.2L. I use Mobil1 5W-20 pure synthetic, and change oil & (Wix)filter, myself, every 5k miles. What more can I do to to make sure I DON'T have to go thru this on my car? Or another way to ask this question, what caused these rocker arms to fail? TIA, Bud.
Use 5w30
@@3.6pentastardude81 I’ve always used synthetic 5W-30 on my wife’s 2012 GC, and it has the tick anyway. Of course, it has about 170k miles...
It's just a cheap rocker. I'm swapping all of them for cast iron from AutoZone. They're 10 a pop x 24
This guy gives me confidence that he KNOWS HIS SHIT! Rare on this format. Thanks Dude!!!
Very Good ! TK U What does the VW 3.2 I know 3.2 liter but what does the VW stand for ?
It was used an Chrysler van that was rebranded for “Volkswagen” called the Routan I believe…..I might have misspelled that
If I'm only working the RIGHT side, do I have to take the LEFT side cover off to line up timing or can I do that with RIGHT side only?
You only need to remove the valve cover on the side your working on
@@MotorCityMechanic Thank you for responding. Taking valve cover off as we speak.
By far the best and most detailed mopar channel out there!! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!!
Probably the most photographed video on UA-cam because that's how Gen X dads fixing the family car rolls.
Brilliantly done. Clear, concise, covered everything I needed to know. Thank you for such a great video on this particular job.
David- you are amazing! Great job on the videos & content. Please keep it up, you are doing your part to keep us DIY folks alive!
Finally a video that doesn’t skip any critical steps. I’m definately doing the job myself and see why my mechanic was scared to do it
Never in my life watched a engine repair a video that is very well detailed and as informative..... thankyou sir
Thank you so much for making these videos, you saved me thousands!
Awesome! Glad to help when I can
Perfect tutorial, felt like I was watching an online class. Feeling pretty confident attempting this repair now.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU ❤ I did all my rockers and lifters this eve and being able to just remove the camshaft completely make things so easy. I couldn't have done it without such clear explanations. Thanks again!
Like I tell everyone else that has completed this repair…..may hats off to you on taking on a big job like this. I appreciate you using my videos and for leaving feedback as well. Job well done!
Thanks bro I have to do my nephews jeep u explained very well👍🏼 fords are my specialty but my family members buy alot of gm/ Chrysler cars thanks seems simple enough peace bro
what brand rocker arms you recommend to replace them with
what are the odds of this happening on left side, when all rocker arms replaced on the right side? 2016 JKU
Pretty much 50/50 in my opinion. Eventually if you own it long enough the other side will make noise. But I’ve been proved wrong before
@@MotorCityMechanic yeah, 2016 manual jku 115K miles. last year rocker arms & intake. 13 months later P0340 cam shaft phaser & exhaust. but i hope the left is better than the right was. thank you for explaining in depth.
Excellent Video. QQ - how many miles do those chains last?
Thanks. I have never had to replace one yet. I know of some Promasters with this engine that have 540,000 miles
David,while torquing the phaser oil bolt my block on left side between phasers popped out and I believe jumped a tooth down below and now,exhaust cam paint lines dont line up.Seem to be off a tooth.Not sure how to fix it.Engine is in car and was just replacing worn camshafts,rockers and lifters from ticking noises.van has 181,000 miles.Please help.
I just did this without wedging the tensioners. Just locked the cams, took out the 36mm oil control bolt, removed the cam caps and rubber mallet the phaser off. Same markings and all though.
Excellent videos. Thank you. Very detailed and accurate info. Clear audio and camera work. Halfway thru my own repair fo this same issue. The torque sequence diagrams as very helpful. Gret job .
Great information roughly what's the cost first a job like this. Thank you.
Depending on the vehicle…..$1500 is an honest estimate. If you need a shaft then typically an additional $350-$400
Thank you
19 Promaster 2500- 86k mi. Need recommendations.
Code- P0300 and P0302. Changed the following:
All coils and plugs
#2 injector
Same codes:
Removed Left cams inspected:
1. Cam lobes
2.Rocker Arms- rollers look good
3. Lifers look ok? Not sure how to inspect.
Where do I go from here?
Amazing video. Stuck on right side and using the special tool. Placed wedge over the pin - between the pin and timing cover. Still no luck. The tool goes until the bolt taps out on special tool but the chain does not loose tension. Not sure iti a faulty tool or not. Help please!
Outstanding - Thanks for passing your knowledge - saved me thousands!!!!!!!!!!!
Brilliant video, felt like I was sitting in a classroom getting thorough instructions.
Thanks. I try to include as much needed info as possible without overdoing it. Glad people enjoy
Can you do this repair why it is in the car. I have one that Is ticking. 2011 routan
You sure can, it’s the way to do it actually, no need in going thru all the steps to remove it. It can be a tight fit on some vehicles but it’s doable
Thanks, checking out amazon now to see pricing for rockers. Should I do lifters too or just the rockers.
Thank you great video
Vans been nothing but trouble since I got it. Oil cooler replacement and transmission issues, trans filter. It has hard shifting between gears lots of shaking.
Personally I would do lifters and rockers arms. Stick to the OEM parts....they have been revised and improved. Some places sell them other then the dealer.
@@MotorCityMechanic gotcha, thank you for the info and advice.
Completed the job, but am getting P0365 and P0390 codes. Super rough start and idle, then dies. Any ideas?
On my 2016 Jeep JK I replaced a head on the DS. I followed your video to a "T" and everything went fine and it started up great. After about 100 miles it threw 2 codes P06DA (engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Open) and P0013 ("B"Camshaft position Actuator "A" control circuit /open bank 1) Any ideas why?
Thank you very much for the excellent videos on this Pentastar engine. My 3.6 L was ticking so I took the top off the engine with your help. I was just going to replace the one sloppy but working rocker on #5 which was the only cylinder throwing a code. I wasn’t going to pull the valve cover on the left side. But I then decided to replace all the rockers and lifters. I discovered about 6 spongy lifters on both sides and about 3 rockers that had rollers that were a little sloppy. BUT I had a rocker arm roller seized on the driver side intake that didn’t even throw a code! That cam lobe was almost perfectly round! So, 24 lifters, 24 rockers, and one new cam, all Melling brand. I immediately changed the oil and filter and have put a couple thousand miles on it…..no clicking and no engine lights!
Parts were close to 1,000 bucks but much better than the $5,000 the dealership wanted.
THANKYOU for helping give this electrician the confidence to tackle this project!
Just Awesome ! Thank You for these two videos !
I'm an old heavy duty tech that has attended many OEM Factory Training Classes . I must say you explain everything with great detail while going through the motions better then some of the training classes I attended ! We Bought a New Jeep Sahara a Few years back with the 3.6 and I thought it would be a good idea to familiarize myself with this engine as the warranty will end in a year .Well You did a great job , look foreword to watching more of your Vid's !!
Thanks for finding the channel and I do appreciate those kind words. I credit the editing software for making it look so smooth lol
Your a great micanic, thanks for pointing out everything. I have a ticking in my engine, it's 2014 Town and Country Van. I think it the lifter. I scanned the engine and it said cadlic converter need to be replace, and then it said sensor 1 PO 420, bank 1, and sensor bank 2 PO 430 needed to be replaced. When I start it up, I get the lights on the dash to light up like a christmas tree. Speacily when it's cold out and rainy, Not sure what that could be. But it's starting to drive me into det, lol Do you have any idea's???
Hello ,well I completed the roller replacement on my2015 Chrysler 200 3.6l.I had to replace one intake camshaft bank 1 and one exhaust camshaft Bank 2. I fired the car up and run great, but on second day I now get a engine light with two codes P000D and P0018. The car still runs great. What is my issue now. Hopefully I don’t have to tear this back down.
Thank you so much for your knowledge and excellent tutorials. Subscriber here, just did both banks, rockers, lifters. Did everything you said to do. Found bad rocker on bank 2, bank 1 had one starting to go.
Now it won’t start (2014 charger). It turns over, can turn the crank by hand. Planning on picking up a compressor tester.
Any ideas where to start looking? Thank you.
You've probably seen a 100 of these 3.2/3.6 rocker arm/ cam replacements. Why do you think they occur? Ive got a 22 3.2L with 8k miles. No problems at this time, but i want to avoid these problems, if possible. Are they unavoidable or are there things i can do to stave off these types of problems?
Hey Dave.... Can you tell me what's the oil recommend for my Town country 2014 3.6/ V6 (Synthetic or conventional) thanks in advance
I watched Dave’s video on rocker roller and camshaft replacement. I did the job on my 2015 Chrysler 200 3.6 and everything went great and car runs much better, I replaced all the rollers and replaced left exhaust camshaft and right intake camshaft, However I have two codes showing- P000D and P0018. When putting everything back my arrows faced each other. Could this be a “relearn needed? I also replaced the two phaser actuator solenoids and the top camshaft position sensor on bank 2 that was leaking.
When I start up the car after about 30 seconds of idle I get a short idle blip and then it idles fine.
Patrick Pierson
Having a problem getting the right side timing chain tensioningtool for my 2012 Jeep Wrangler 3.6.
The kit I ordered fits the 2013. Can you give me the correct kit number or web sight. I ordered this kit from Amazon, said it fit mine.
HOW DID YOU ROTATE CAMSHAFTS INDEPENDENTLY AT TOP DEAD CENTER? I THOUGHT THAT CAN DAMGE YOUR VALVES?
Awesome video. Thanks for the awesome detail. Unfortunately it didn’t fix my particular issue. I have 60 psi compression on cylinder 6. Any ideas where I should go from there?
Just curious, the Chilton says 71" lbs on the upper intake bolts....Where did you get 89" lbs? I am leaning toward your advice...since I have found loads of this information missing from this damn book. It doesnt even have a tightening sequence for the valve cover...just points out the bolt locations.