I have used your video twice now to repair both sides of my 2017 RHD Jeep Wrangler Sport! A very well done video with specs and helpful insight. I had never been that deep into an engine before but felt confident and able to do it after studying your video. Thank you very much. I deliver mail 6 days a week and usually use the 7th day to wrench. Thanks again for helping.
Certainly not a mechanic, but just finished this job on my 2012 JKU (OverRock). Took longer than I expected, and was a bit scary, but it seems to be running great! Big thanks! Watched these 2 videos many times! Would never considered doing this otherwise. I spent about $800 including some new tools. Mechanic quoted me $4k😮
You can lift the camshaft without removing it. For an update… On the right side I had to remove the exhaust camshaft because it was badly scored. Now I have a camshaft position sensor error that I can’t seem to figure out. I recommend not removing the camshaft unless it’s damaged.
Great video. Only thing I would add is making sure the oil gallery bolts are tight under the phasers. They have a tendency to work themselves out and cause timing issues.
I did one about 3 months ago replaced all rockers and lifters and one cam. I didn't want to take it apart again for bad lifters. It was in a 2015 Dodge van with just about 100,000 on it. All I know is I would never buy a vehicle with 3.6 and they had to replace the trans at 86,000 and this van has mostly highway miles in it For the price you pay anymore for a vehicle there such junk. I know 3 more 3.6 that had the same problem.
Why would you ever just do one side? I mean unless your customer requests it. Is it still good practice to do them both even if you only hear ticking from one side?
Jeez, that looks like so much work! I was proud of myself for swapping out the thermostat but there's no way I"m ready to do all that! My 2015 JKU has that exact same ticking sound. :(
Man let me tell you. I did this yesterday….the passenger side only because I didn’t have time to do driver side. It’s NOT an easy job and you’re going to need lot of tools. The PCV valve removal is a bitch in itself. Also, the valve cover removal is really difficult as is putting it back. If you’re not careful you will bend the delicate evap hose and if too much, you’ll have to replace that. I’ve wrenched a lot on my jeep but this was a pain. It was doable with the heater lines being kept in like this video shows but ideally you’d have way more room to work with if you took them out. Driver side is next but I need some mental recovery time before I do it. lol. Good luck if you decide to tackle it.
My car went in for an oil pressure sensor, since I got it back it’s been a lil louder than before especially when going freeway speeds I did notice that the bolts for intake bracket is gone could that be the reason?
Great video I just replaced the pressure sensor about two months ago and it just started ticking this week. So back in I go. :) did you get your gaskets and cams from oreily or mopar ?
I got everything Mopar except for the PCV valve which I got from O’Reilly’s because the Mopar one was on back order. Aftermarket gaskets should be fine if you want, but the Mopar gaskets are actually pretty inexpensive. I would at least go Mopar on the cams/lifters/rocker arms.
Thank you so much for this!!!!! We were able to do our lifters and rocker arms no problem with the help of this video! I seriously cannot thank you enough for this video 😭😩
Boss man good video but man it pains me to see you struggle without this detail: Get yourself a 1/4 flex head ratchet and some half cut torx bit sockets.
By far the hardest part of this job is that damn pcv valve. It’s my second time dealing with it. I replaced the valve cover gasket and discovered I needed some rocker arms. Couldn’t replace it then and now have to deal with it again.
Ok so I came across another video and rhe cam caps were only loosened and not removed. Neither was the timing chain. The caps were loosened just enough for the rocket arms to be taken out and new ones put in. Any thoughts on this method? Asking mainly to see if there’s higher risk for whatever reasons to do it that way. Obviously if the cam shafts need to be replaced you have to take the timing chain etc off. But if it’s jusy the rocker arms and pins and you can do it without taking the chain off then it seems like a no brainer. I’m a weekend warrior when it comes to auto repair so just curious on any thoughts on this alternate method.
Thanks for bringing this up. I almost addressed this in the video, but I didn’t want the video to be any longer than it already is. The vast majority of the time, the camshaft will be damaged. So you’ll have to remove the timing chain anyway. But if you get lucky, and the camshaft is OK, then it’s definitely worth a try. I I attempted that method once, but it didn’t work out for me. I was able to remove a couple of the rocker arms towards the rear of the camshaft, but I wasn’t able to remove the rocker arms toward the front. I couldn’t get the cam shafts to raise up enough. If other people have done it then I’m sure it can be done, but that was my experience.
@@jackhfletcheryeah screw that. Shortcuts are often costly. Thanks for answering. Just ordered all the parts I need to do this. I didn’t order the camshafts Becusee they are crazy expensive and I have no idea if they are going to be needed. Hopefully not. I may do the oil cooler housing also since It may be time.
Started this job today. What a royal PITA. I have to agree. Taking the battery box out is a must. Ran into so many issues. Small ones that are the clock. PCV valve is one of them. Budget time for this little part spawned by satan himself. Get yourself a small thumb drive and thank me later. I bought the plastic tools for the cam shafts to relive tension on the chain. No clue what I was doing wrong but I got very minimal release in the chain. Was able to get the can shafts free. Then the block that was supposed to keep everything from moving got dislodged. Fml. Was able to change the rocker arms and lifters on the passenger side. Got everhring lined up to the pain marks and started reassembling. The valve cover is another Royal PITA. I think it would have been easier had I removed the heater core hoses but I left them as was in this video. Lots of cussing and wrestling with that thing. But the time I got it in I decided no way was I doing the driver side today. Put everything back. Lost the hose connection to the little vapor box that goes in the battery box. It was underneath. Had to take the box screws out again. lol. Learned a lot from doing the one half of the engine. I still have ticking on the drivers side but that’s gonna be another day. I don’t have it in me right now. lol. Actually thinking I may be done with jeep. As much as I love it and on my second one, I’m getting too old for this and for the horrible quality of this vehicle. The amount of repairs I’ve had to do on this that I never had on any other car it insane.
the more of these I see to me this is an issue of low oil from the design of the rockers, the old style didn't have this issue, but they did pop out and caused other problems that lead to head damage, I guess this style of rocker is good, but they need some improvement to get the roller more oil where they need it, I think I rather have this issue and at the slightest tick tear it down and repair should be cheaper than a replacement head.
Nice video, thanks for posting! I have had a JK and a JL jeep wrangler, and the popular belief is if they get past 65k miles without the tick, you are golden- but not in this case! Thanks for your content!
2014 Jeep JKU checking in and we got ours at 100k and we’re now at 128k and we’re still going strong sir! I feel the key is oil changes which I am on top of. The fiancé does a ton of stop and go driving on the way to her job at the school. so I change over EVERY 3,000 miles with either Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Valvoline Restore and Protect. Also do a quart of BG EPR before every other oil change (I work at a dealership in the service dept. so i get it for cheap) and then afterwards a can of BG MOA followed by a can of BG 44k then check air filter and cabin filter each and every time. I’ve learned you have to be meticulous about the maintenance on these Jeeps, I have done so much to keep her on the road. My fiancé being able to drive her dream car and have a huge smile when she drives is payment enough for me.
I have a 2016 Jeep JK that I bought new. It started ticking around 40,000 miles so I took it to get fixed and the mechanic told me to change the oil, use 5W20 HIGH MILEAGE OIL and use a half pint of STP oil treatment as well. And do this EVERY 3000 miles (and no more !) That's very important. I did this and the ticking stopped after less than a hundred miles ! I have over 110,000 miles and no ticking since !! I hope that this helps someone before they spend a ton of money on something that they can do themselves, that has to be done anyway, for maintenance. Good luck and godspeed.
That didn’t happen to me. That’s usually why I blow compressed air across the top of the engine before I remove the valve covers. That way, all the loose dirt and pieces of plastic get blown off. Did it fall down in the timing cover area?
@@jackhfletcher I don't believe anything fell down the timing chain area, not that I can see. Most was towards the rear of the head. I blew compressed air too but I think it was falling in when trying to get the cover off. Can I blow compressed air to blow those little pieces out? I got all the big chucks out. Btw Great Video!
I changed the passenger intake camshaft on my JL and it starts and runs fine but starts misfiring and violently shaking after 30-60 seconds; the CEL light starts flashing and it starts throwing camshaft A/B codes and whatnot. I made sure the timing was correct with the timing marks lined up with cylinder 1 at TDC and 12 pins on the timing chain in between the phasers marks. Any ideas ?
The timing is off somehow. You need to go back through your work and find out what happened. If you’re not sure, then you may need to call a professional to come look at it.
@@jackhfletcher it’s a stupid issue I’m having, it runs great and then starts misfiring after a minute or less… if I drive it then it’s fine but if I let it sit and misfire then the CEL will start flashing and it’ll misfire and drive like shit… Am I supposed to flash the pcm after the work I did, would a bad camshaft sensor cause this issue? It seems like an electrical issue…
It definitely could be. I’ve seen that exact issue on these 3.6L engines. But then again, it could also be a bad injector, low compression, a blown head gasket, or a range of other issues.
I hear a tapping/clicking noise right when I start the jeep but it goes away after about 3-5 seconds. Is that normal or a lifter tapping? I might try the long screw driver trick to confirm if I have a tap at idle.
Probably the beginning of a failed rocker if its the v6. 2 of our v6 pentastars had them fail and it sounded just like in this video. Very obvious. Not to hard to diy but dont wait or itll wipe the cam out and itll be more expensive
Awesome detailed repair, Jack. You didn't need to apply any threadlock on the cam caps? The obvious other question is why have they worn after only 110,000 miles? You must be grateful to Stellantis Jeep for regular work 😊
No thread locker required on these! And yes, Jeeps do generate a lot of repair income! They tend to become money-pits as they age. These rocker arms are just poorly made. There are Toyota engines running the same type of rocker arms and never have a problem.
You forgot to mention the cam/crank variation relearn procedure must be preformed. Otherwise go no where. Reduced power and ding engine light and traction control light.
Yes, it will be fine. I have one customer who has driven like that for over a year. Sometimes, if you can catch it immediately you might be able to save the camshaft from getting damaged but not always.
Great video. It's very helpful. just did my first 3.6l running into a problem with it starting and running rough at first and now cranks but wont start has codes p0016 p0017 p0018 p0019 p0172 p0175 p000a p000b p000c and p000d it all relates to timing pulled it back apart and timing lines up on the phasers what do you think i did wrong
The timing is off somehow. Just because the marks on the cam phasers are correct relative to each other doesn’t mean that the cam timing is correct relative to the crankshaft. If you’re 100% sure that both sets of cam phasers are in the correct position relative to the crank, then the only other thing I can think of is maybe you accidentally put the camshafts in the wrong order since all four camshafts are different.
@jackhfletcher the cams are all in order it looks like the left side intake cam jumped a tooth when looking at the holes on the cams them selfs I'm hoping to move the cam a tooth back and it fixes it
I found out that the crap camshaft that the customer supplied is made of soft metal and with the doul pin hole it mushroomed causing the phaser to move about a half a tooth put factory parts on and fixed it thanks for the help
OUTSTANDING. Thanks for this video. Have the ticking and going to tackle this in the spring. Question on the cam shafts. How do you tell if they need to be replaced. You mentioned scoring but it’s hard to see. I’m guessing with all the trouble to rip this apart it’s probably good idea to just replace them. Also going to replace the o2 sensors while at it.
I’ve seen the roller bearings on the lifters seize up and grind a flat spot into the camshaft lobe. If that happens, it’s really obvious. In most cases, though, it won’t be that dramatic and you’ll just see some scoring along the edges of the lobe (like in this video). I admit it’s much easier to see in person than on camera, but once you get your vehicle disassembled you should be able to see it easily. If you see any scoring, I would recommend replacing the camshaft, but if not, then I don’t see any problem re-using the camshaft. They’re anywhere between $400-$500 each, so because they’re so expensive, I would only replace the ones that are damaged.
@@jackhfletcherwow. They are expensive. Tough decision. This is my only car and my fear is disassembling and seeing I need the shafts and not having them. Can’t afford to be without wheels while waiting for shafts to come. Guess best bet is to do this when I plan to take time off from work. If I need shafts hopefully they can get delivered fast. Not sure id go with anything but Mopar considering the huge undertaking to get to them. Thanks again!!!
I would definitely go with Mopar. If you have a Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep dealer nearby, they should have all this stuff in stock. Just talk to their parts department and you can have the parts placed in will call to pick up immediately. I guess if this is your only vehicle then you’d need to get a ride😅
Plugs and oil cooler for sure. If you decide to replace the oil cooler, most of these have a coolant temperature sensor and an oil pressure sensor that screw into the oil cooler housing. These are prone to failure so I would recommend replacing both of those sensors with new OEM sensors instead of swapping over the old sensors to the new housing. Plus, the old sensors have loc-tite on the threads and can be problematic to remove. Also, there is a coolant hose that connects to the rear of the oil filter housing. You might as well replace that too while you’re in there. Get it from the dealer. It’s around $30 I believe.
Here’s what I do. I set up a table with a an old moving blanket on top. As I disassemble things I place the parts etc on the table in an order that makes sense to me (top to bottom and left to right). When it comes time to reassemble I just start at the bottom right and work backwards. Of course this doesn’t help with things like electrical connectors or anything you don’t physically take off. But it helps a lot. You can also take pics of things before you start.
At this point, I’ve done it so many times that I just remember. But I’ve done some jobs where it helps to take some pictures with my phone before I disassemble.
@@jackhfletcher Reason I watched is my wife's 2017 Charger has a new tap noise after it's warm. 101k Not sure I want to hose up the car you know. Looks like a PIA. I only do miner work breaks, wheel barrings, rotors,bulb's, fluids, belts, radiator etc.
He means that the JKs were originally spec’d for 5W30 but changed to 5W20 to achieve higher fuel economy. The lower viscosity may not lubricate as effectively at higher temperatures.
Exactly right. I have a 2016 Jeep JK that I bought new. It started ticking around 40,000 miles so I took it to get fixed and the mechanic told me to change the oil, use 5W20 HIGH MILEAGE OIL and use a half pint of STP oil treatment as well. And do this EVERY 3000 miles (and no more !) That's very important. I did this and the ticking stopped after less than a hundred miles ! I have over 110,000 miles and no ticking since !! I hope that this helps someone before they spend a ton of money on something that they can do themselves, that has to be done anyway, for maintenance. Good luck and godspeed..
@@RobertCunningham-pf9tgdid you actually got diagnosed with the ticking rocker issue and got it fixed then started using the high mileage combo you mentioned or did you just go straight to replacing your oil?
@@khalidkhatib5621 I was told by a couple of guys that had the issue with their Jeeps and one garage that, that was my issue and I would need to have my rockers replaced. So, I took it to my guy to fix and he told me to try that before we tore into the engine. And he was absolutely correct. Haven't had the ticking since !
Nice work. My mechanic thought it was one side as well but based on your video he should have verified both sides. If your left light goes out you don’t just replace it and keep moving. You replace the right one as well. If you replace things in sets you will save the customer the additional labor and time by doing the job correctly the first time.
When I was removing the left side camshaft the intake camshaft got stuck on. There’s no brackets holding it there but it is not budging. Any ideas on what I did wrong?
Great video . Trying to get the courage up to do this. Shop wants 3600 without the cams assuming they are not bad. Think my biggest fear is messing with timing chain.
I have used your video twice now to repair both sides of my 2017 RHD Jeep Wrangler Sport! A very well done video with specs and helpful insight. I had never been that deep into an engine before but felt confident and able to do it after studying your video. Thank you very much. I deliver mail 6 days a week and usually use the 7th day to wrench. Thanks again for helping.
Certainly not a mechanic, but just finished this job on my 2012 JKU (OverRock). Took longer than I expected, and was a bit scary, but it seems to be running great! Big thanks! Watched these 2 videos many times! Would never considered doing this otherwise. I spent about $800 including some new tools. Mechanic quoted me $4k😮
It's because of you that I was able to get the job done. Two bad cams bc of faulty rockers. Thank you for posting this!!
Amazing!
It’s fixed! I use the shortcut method, but I really appreciate your in-depth instructions on taking it apart and putting it back together.
What's the shortcut method?
You can lift the camshaft without removing it. For an update… On the right side I had to remove the exhaust camshaft because it was badly scored. Now I have a camshaft position sensor error that I can’t seem to figure out. I recommend not removing the camshaft unless it’s damaged.
Video is from A2Z Auto Masters
Датчики распредвалов могли местами перепутать они одинаковые но бывает что если поменял местами то выдает ошибку@@mitchwells69
thanks for this video! about to prep for my repair on a 2014 ram 1500.
Great video. Only thing I would add is making sure the oil gallery bolts are tight under the phasers. They have a tendency to work themselves out and cause timing issues.
Good point! That’s definitely a good thing to check.
Now next week the oil cooler will start leaking and need to pull the intake again 😂 gotta love those 3.6
Haha that’s exactly what I was thinking when I was doing this job!
@@jackhfletcher I hope they did spark plugs atleast
I did one about 3 months ago replaced all rockers and lifters and one cam. I didn't want to take it apart again for bad lifters. It was in a 2015 Dodge van with just about 100,000 on it. All I know is I would never buy a vehicle with 3.6 and they had to replace the trans at 86,000 and this van has mostly highway miles in it For the price you pay anymore for a vehicle there such junk. I know 3 more 3.6 that had the same problem.
Why would you ever just do one side? I mean unless your customer requests it. Is it still good practice to do them both even if you only hear ticking from one side?
Jeez, that looks like so much work! I was proud of myself for swapping out the thermostat but there's no way I"m ready to do all that! My 2015 JKU has that exact same ticking sound. :(
Man let me tell you. I did this yesterday….the passenger side only because I didn’t have time to do driver side. It’s NOT an easy job and you’re going to need lot of tools. The PCV valve removal is a bitch in itself. Also, the valve cover removal is really difficult as is putting it back. If you’re not careful you will bend the delicate evap hose and if too much, you’ll have to replace that. I’ve wrenched a lot on my jeep but this was a pain. It was doable with the heater lines being kept in like this video shows but ideally you’d have way more room to work with if you took them out. Driver side is next but I need some mental recovery time before I do it. lol. Good luck if you decide to tackle it.
so @1:06:00 is that slight tick sound normal? If so what is causing that?
It’s normal. That sound is probably a combination of a slight valve train noise and the injectors firing.
what would be the cost
estimate of repair if I took my truck I n for this repair with replacement of the shafts and rocker arms?
My car went in for an oil pressure sensor, since I got it back it’s been a lil louder than before especially when going freeway speeds I did notice that the bolts for intake bracket is gone could that be the reason?
How many hours work is this in your shop? what is the cost for this repair?
Awesome video! Did you end up replacing the Bank 1 O2 sensor?
Yeah I did! It was pretty easy to access once I had the battery tray out.
What is that slight slight tick post repair? Is that an injector?
What is the labour cost do do all 24 on grand Cherokee? ?
Great video I just replaced the pressure sensor about two months ago and it just started ticking this week. So back in I go. :) did you get your gaskets and cams from oreily or mopar ?
I got everything Mopar except for the PCV valve which I got from O’Reilly’s because the Mopar one was on back order. Aftermarket gaskets should be fine if you want, but the Mopar gaskets are actually pretty inexpensive. I would at least go Mopar on the cams/lifters/rocker arms.
The right side tentioner doesn't have a lock only the left side does.
Great video. Do the cam phasers ever have to be replaced? I have an Expedition and the 3.5 Ecoboost is famous for failed cam phasers.
Thanks! I’ve personally never seen one fail, but yes, I believe some of these 3.6L Pentastar engines have had cam phaser problems.
Thank you so much for this!!!!! We were able to do our lifters and rocker arms no problem with the help of this video! I seriously cannot thank you enough for this video 😭😩
That’s amazing! Thank you for the comment!
Boss man good video but man it pains me to see you struggle without this detail:
Get yourself a 1/4 flex head ratchet and some half cut torx bit sockets.
Oh, and how many hours? To do both sides?
Book is 9
By far the hardest part of this job is that damn pcv valve. It’s my second time dealing with it. I replaced the valve cover gasket and discovered I needed some rocker arms. Couldn’t replace it then and now have to deal with it again.
Ok so I came across another video and rhe cam caps were only loosened and not removed. Neither was the timing chain. The caps were loosened just enough for the rocket arms to be taken out and new ones put in. Any thoughts on this method? Asking mainly to see if there’s higher risk for whatever reasons to do it that way. Obviously if the cam shafts need to be replaced you have to take the timing chain etc off. But if it’s jusy the rocker arms and pins and you can do it without taking the chain off then it seems like a no brainer. I’m a weekend warrior when it comes to auto repair so just curious on any thoughts on this alternate method.
Thanks for bringing this up. I almost addressed this in the video, but I didn’t want the video to be any longer than it already is. The vast majority of the time, the camshaft will be damaged. So you’ll have to remove the timing chain anyway. But if you get lucky, and the camshaft is OK, then it’s definitely worth a try. I I attempted that method once, but it didn’t work out for me. I was able to remove a couple of the rocker arms towards the rear of the camshaft, but I wasn’t able to remove the rocker arms toward the front. I couldn’t get the cam shafts to raise up enough. If other people have done it then I’m sure it can be done, but that was my experience.
@@jackhfletcheryeah screw that. Shortcuts are often costly. Thanks for answering. Just ordered all the parts I need to do this. I didn’t order the camshafts Becusee they are crazy expensive and I have no idea if they are going to be needed. Hopefully not. I may do the oil cooler housing also since It may be time.
Started this job today. What a royal PITA. I have to agree. Taking the battery box out is a must. Ran into so many issues. Small ones that are the clock. PCV valve is one of them. Budget time for this little part spawned by satan himself. Get yourself a small thumb drive and thank me later. I bought the plastic tools for the cam shafts to relive tension on the chain. No clue what I was doing wrong but I got very minimal release in the chain. Was able to get the can shafts free. Then the block that was supposed to keep everything from moving got dislodged. Fml. Was able to change the rocker arms and lifters on the passenger side. Got everhring lined up to the pain marks and started reassembling. The valve cover is another Royal PITA. I think it would have been easier had I removed the heater core hoses but I left them as was in this video. Lots of cussing and wrestling with that thing. But the time I got it in I decided no way was I doing the driver side today. Put everything back. Lost the hose connection to the little vapor box that goes in the battery box. It was underneath. Had to take the box screws out again. lol. Learned a lot from doing the one half of the engine. I still have ticking on the drivers side but that’s gonna be another day. I don’t have it in me right now. lol. Actually thinking I may be done with jeep. As much as I love it and on my second one, I’m getting too old for this and for the horrible quality of this vehicle. The amount of repairs I’ve had to do on this that I never had on any other car it insane.
Very detailed. I’m about to tackle this job.
Let me know how it goes!
Me too! Ordering everything this week and hopefully starting Friday evening and wrapping up Saturday.
@@CodySR96how did it go?
Are the new rocker arms better made? Or is there better rockers that u may suggest so issue doesn’t happen again so fast ?
While inside, you should check the 2 oil gallery bolts. I had 2 on the right side, only finger tight and left side slightly more than finger tight.
the more of these I see to me this is an issue of low oil from the design of the rockers, the old style didn't have this issue, but they did pop out and caused other problems that lead to head damage, I guess this style of rocker is good, but they need some improvement to get the roller more oil where they need it, I think I rather have this issue and at the slightest tick tear it down and repair should be cheaper than a replacement head.
Nice video, thanks for posting! I have had a JK and a JL jeep wrangler, and the popular belief is if they get past 65k miles without the tick, you are golden- but not in this case! Thanks for your content!
Thanks for watching!
2014 Jeep JKU checking in and we got ours at 100k and we’re now at 128k and we’re still going strong sir! I feel the key is oil changes which I am on top of. The fiancé does a ton of stop and go driving on the way to her job at the school. so I change over EVERY 3,000 miles with either Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Valvoline Restore and Protect. Also do a quart of BG EPR before every other oil change (I work at a dealership in the service dept. so i get it for cheap) and then afterwards a can of BG MOA followed by a can of BG 44k then check air filter and cabin filter each and every time. I’ve learned you have to be meticulous about the maintenance on these Jeeps, I have done so much to keep her on the road. My fiancé being able to drive her dream car and have a huge smile when she drives is payment enough for me.
@@bradleyporter5454don’t forget to come back and tell us when the problems start
Awesome video. Thank you. Do you have a list of full list tools and parts you can post?
Awesome video. Thank you. Do you have a list of full list tools and parts you can post?
Should the paint marks on the timing chain eventually line back up with the marks on the cam phasers if i turn the crank?
I have a 2016 Jeep JK that I bought new. It started ticking around 40,000 miles so I took it to get fixed and the mechanic told me to change the oil, use 5W20 HIGH MILEAGE OIL and use a half pint of STP oil treatment as well. And do this EVERY 3000 miles (and no more !) That's very important. I did this and the ticking stopped after less than a hundred miles ! I have over 110,000 miles and no ticking since !! I hope that this helps someone before they spend a ton of money on something that they can do themselves, that has to be done anyway, for maintenance. Good luck and godspeed.
Oh I’m going to try this. Crossing my fingers
@@melissamacomber4877
Anything?
Have the rocker arm bearings in the new part number been updated to prevent this issue?
I believe they have been updated, although I’m not 100% sure on that.
Apparently yes, post 2019. The old ones had needle bearings. The new ones are a solid pin, new part number ends in AH.
Last time I picked some up at the dealer I think he said they were on revision 3
Did you have plastic pieces from the wiring harness wire loom fall down in there? If so how did you get them out?
That didn’t happen to me. That’s usually why I blow compressed air across the top of the engine before I remove the valve covers. That way, all the loose dirt and pieces of plastic get blown off. Did it fall down in the timing cover area?
@@jackhfletcher I don't believe anything fell down the timing chain area, not that I can see. Most was towards the rear of the head. I blew compressed air too but I think it was falling in when trying to get the cover off. Can I blow compressed air to blow those little pieces out? I got all the big chucks out. Btw Great Video!
Yeah, I would try to blow out as much as you can, and use some needle nose pliers to pick out the bigger pieces. Thanks for watching!
Ur video walked me right thru. No more tapping. Thx
I changed the passenger intake camshaft on my JL and it starts and runs fine but starts misfiring and violently shaking after 30-60 seconds; the CEL light starts flashing and it starts throwing camshaft A/B codes and whatnot. I made sure the timing was correct with the timing marks lined up with cylinder 1 at TDC and 12 pins on the timing chain in between the phasers marks. Any ideas ?
Did you install the correct camshaft, since all four are different? The passenger intake camshaft should be labeled “RI”
@@jackhfletcher yes I did, I did notice the 36mm oil valve didn’t want to slide out of the intake phaser, do you think that would cause an issue ?
@@jackhfletcher I changed the phaser and the 36mm bolt valve and nothing changed…
The timing is off somehow. You need to go back through your work and find out what happened. If you’re not sure, then you may need to call a professional to come look at it.
@@jackhfletcher it’s a stupid issue I’m having, it runs great and then starts misfiring after a minute or less… if I drive it then it’s fine but if I let it sit and misfire then the CEL will start flashing and it’ll misfire and drive like shit…
Am I supposed to flash the pcm after the work I did, would a bad camshaft sensor cause this issue? It seems like an electrical issue…
Awesome video. Thank you. Do you have a full list tools and parts you can post?
Would this be causing a P0305 code? I replaced the plugs and coil packs in Nov and the code is back. Trying to figure out my next step.
It definitely could be. I’ve seen that exact issue on these 3.6L engines. But then again, it could also be a bad injector, low compression, a blown head gasket, or a range of other issues.
I hear a tapping/clicking noise right when I start the jeep but it goes away after about 3-5 seconds. Is that normal or a lifter tapping? I might try the long screw driver trick to confirm if I have a tap at idle.
Probably the beginning of a failed rocker if its the v6. 2 of our v6 pentastars had them fail and it sounded just like in this video. Very obvious. Not to hard to diy but dont wait or itll wipe the cam out and itll be more expensive
Is there a way to prevent this? Preemptively replacing all 24 rockers and lifters?
Yep
Awesome detailed repair, Jack. You didn't need to apply any threadlock on the cam caps?
The obvious other question is why have they worn after only 110,000 miles? You must be grateful to Stellantis Jeep for regular work 😊
No thread locker required on these! And yes, Jeeps do generate a lot of repair income! They tend to become money-pits as they age. These rocker arms are just poorly made. There are Toyota engines running the same type of rocker arms and never have a problem.
You forgot to mention the cam/crank variation relearn procedure must be preformed. Otherwise go no where. Reduced power and ding engine light and traction control light.
I’ve done this repair many times and never had to perform any such re-learn procedure.
Good job nice video ❤
Thanks!
Is it ok to drive your jeep with a bad rocker arm? Just started hearing the ticking omw home. Is it ok to drive till i can fix it? Thanks bro
Yes, it will be fine. I have one customer who has driven like that for over a year. Sometimes, if you can catch it immediately you might be able to save the camshaft from getting damaged but not always.
@@jackhfletcher ok sweet thanks!
You do very nice work Jack !!
Thank you!
What brand rocker arm and lifters did you use?
I bought original Mopar parts from the dealer.
Great video. It's very helpful. just did my first 3.6l running into a problem with it starting and running rough at first and now cranks but wont start has codes p0016 p0017 p0018 p0019 p0172 p0175 p000a p000b p000c and p000d it all relates to timing pulled it back apart and timing lines up on the phasers what do you think i did wrong
The timing is off somehow. Just because the marks on the cam phasers are correct relative to each other doesn’t mean that the cam timing is correct relative to the crankshaft. If you’re 100% sure that both sets of cam phasers are in the correct position relative to the crank, then the only other thing I can think of is maybe you accidentally put the camshafts in the wrong order since all four camshafts are different.
@jackhfletcher the cams are all in order it looks like the left side intake cam jumped a tooth when looking at the holes on the cams them selfs I'm hoping to move the cam a tooth back and it fixes it
I found out that the crap camshaft that the customer supplied is made of soft metal and with the doul pin hole it mushroomed causing the phaser to move about a half a tooth put factory parts on and fixed it thanks for the help
That’s why I won’t use customer supplied parts.
I hear it. Stamping metal
What brand of camshaft should be used?
I always use Mopar (original equipment). There may be aftermarket options but I’m not too familiar with them.
OUTSTANDING. Thanks for this video. Have the ticking and going to tackle this in the spring. Question on the cam shafts. How do you tell if they need to be replaced. You mentioned scoring but it’s hard to see. I’m guessing with all the trouble to rip this apart it’s probably good idea to just replace them. Also going to replace the o2 sensors while at it.
I’ve seen the roller bearings on the lifters seize up and grind a flat spot into the camshaft lobe. If that happens, it’s really obvious. In most cases, though, it won’t be that dramatic and you’ll just see some scoring along the edges of the lobe (like in this video). I admit it’s much easier to see in person than on camera, but once you get your vehicle disassembled you should be able to see it easily. If you see any scoring, I would recommend replacing the camshaft, but if not, then I don’t see any problem re-using the camshaft. They’re anywhere between $400-$500 each, so because they’re so expensive, I would only replace the ones that are damaged.
@@jackhfletcherwow. They are expensive. Tough decision. This is my only car and my fear is disassembling and seeing I need the shafts and not having them. Can’t afford to be without wheels while waiting for shafts to come. Guess best bet is to do this when I plan to take time off from work. If I need shafts hopefully they can get delivered fast. Not sure id go with anything but Mopar considering the huge undertaking to get to them. Thanks again!!!
I would definitely go with Mopar. If you have a Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep dealer nearby, they should have all this stuff in stock. Just talk to their parts department and you can have the parts placed in will call to pick up immediately. I guess if this is your only vehicle then you’d need to get a ride😅
Jack are there any other things we could PM while we’re down there ? Plugs, oil cooler to the Dorman Alloy unit ?
Plugs and oil cooler for sure. If you decide to replace the oil cooler, most of these have a coolant temperature sensor and an oil pressure sensor that screw into the oil cooler housing. These are prone to failure so I would recommend replacing both of those sensors with new OEM sensors instead of swapping over the old sensors to the new housing. Plus, the old sensors have loc-tite on the threads and can be problematic to remove. Also, there is a coolant hose that connects to the rear of the oil filter housing. You might as well replace that too while you’re in there. Get it from the dealer. It’s around $30 I believe.
@@jackhfletcherthe oem oil cooler housings come with the sensors already, no? I think the Dorman ones dont.
How do possibly remember where everything goes back together?
Here’s what I do. I set up a table with a an old moving blanket on top. As I disassemble things I place the parts etc on the table in an order that makes sense to me (top to bottom and left to right). When it comes time to reassemble I just start at the bottom right and work backwards. Of course this doesn’t help with things like electrical connectors or anything you don’t physically take off. But it helps a lot. You can also take pics of things before you start.
At this point, I’ve done it so many times that I just remember. But I’ve done some jobs where it helps to take some pictures with my phone before I disassemble.
@@jackhfletcher Reason I watched is my wife's 2017 Charger has a new tap noise after it's warm. 101k Not sure I want to hose up the car you know. Looks like a PIA. I only do miner work breaks, wheel barrings, rotors,bulb's, fluids, belts, radiator etc.
Another victim of 5w 20
What do you mean? I have a 2018 JL that uses 0-20w
He means that the JKs were originally spec’d for 5W30 but changed to 5W20 to achieve higher fuel economy. The lower viscosity may not lubricate as effectively at higher temperatures.
Exactly right. I have a 2016 Jeep JK that I bought new. It started ticking around 40,000 miles so I took it to get fixed and the mechanic told me to change the oil, use 5W20 HIGH MILEAGE OIL and use a half pint of STP oil treatment as well. And do this EVERY 3000 miles (and no more !) That's very important. I did this and the ticking stopped after less than a hundred miles ! I have over 110,000 miles and no ticking since !! I hope that this helps someone before they spend a ton of money on something that they can do themselves, that has to be done anyway, for maintenance. Good luck and godspeed..
@@RobertCunningham-pf9tgdid you actually got diagnosed with the ticking rocker issue and got it fixed then started using the high mileage combo you mentioned or did you just go straight to replacing your oil?
@@khalidkhatib5621 I was told by a couple of guys that had the issue with their Jeeps and one garage that, that was my issue and I would need to have my rockers replaced. So, I took it to my guy to fix and he told me to try that before we tore into the engine. And he was absolutely correct. Haven't had the ticking since !
Where is your shop? I need to bring you my jeep same problem
It’s in Katy, TX
@@jackhfletcher What is the address of your workshop?
Awesome video going over all the details.
Thanks!
Nice Work 👍
Thanks!
Cool bro..... now i can explain to the mechanics how to deal with this problems..... very good... vid
Nice work. My mechanic thought it was one side as well but based on your video he should have verified both sides.
If your left light goes out you don’t just replace it and keep moving. You replace the right one as well. If you replace things in sets you will save the customer the additional labor and time by doing the job correctly the first time.
When I was removing the left side camshaft the intake camshaft got stuck on. There’s no brackets holding it there but it is not budging. Any ideas on what I did wrong?
There was probably pressure from the rockers and it bound the cam in the towers. You have to make sure it comes up even
Great video . Trying to get the courage up to do this. Shop wants 3600 without the cams assuming they are not bad.
Think my biggest fear is messing with timing chain.
One of the best overall professional videos on the internet
I appreciate your comment!