Dodge Jeep Chrysler 3.6 Rocker Arm Replacement | Complete guided repair
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2022
- This 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6 has the all too common rocker failure. If your Dodge, Jeep or Chrysler vehicle with the 3.6 has a ticking noise get it fixed ASAP.
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🛒PARTS LIST:
➦ Valve cover gasket set: amzn.to/48LNefE
➦ RTV Sealant: amzn.to/47LDq3V
➦ Roller followers: amzn.to/3u17cUJ
➦ Hydraulic lifters: MOPAR 5184332AA (Currently not sold on Amazon)
➦ Right exhaust cam: MOPAR 5184378AH (Currently not sold on Amazon)
➦ Left exhaust cam: MOPAR 5184377AH (Currently not sold on Amazon)
➦ Right Intake cam: MOPAR 5184380AH (Currently not sold on Amazon)
➦ Left intake cam: MOPAR 5184379AH (Currently not sold on Amazon)
🛒TOOL LIST:
➦ Cam phaser holder tool: amzn.to/3EMiDCo
➦ Electric ratchet: amzn.to/3UbRb93
➦ Wrench and socket set: amzn.to/3Ao3MeH
➦ Ratcheting wrench set: amzn.to/3TQp7V5
➦ Prybar set: amzn.to/3GoChp8
➦ Plastic scraper: amzn.to/3OkX5j5
➦ Torque wrench: amzn.to/3OqLiA4
➦ Torque wrench: amzn.to/3UR1WuO
➡️I am part of the Amazon affiliate program and get a small commission when purchases are made through the links provided.
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Thank you sooooooo much for this video. I followed your video and a 2 part series by MotorCity Mechanic. All my Rockers on the Right Exhaust Cam and the Cam itself where completely gone. Car had only started mis-firing. 2012 with 190K. No garage wanted to repair even at $2000 labour. With your video, it took me a full day. I got parts from a wrecked car for $40 and a new gasket kit for $150. The car runs like new and its my first time touching an engine. So Thank you so much
So u were misfiring because of a bad rocker arm I have a 2012 Chrysler 200s 3.6 and mines ticking bad and misfiring on bank 2 cylinder 6 in the process of replacing my rockers and lifters to get the limp mode to go away and the bad ticking sounds like metal chatterin
@@rockfordhx2768 yep. 5 bad rocker arms and a bad camshaft. Replaced and have now done 5000km. Check engine lights gone, No mis-fire and now a very quiet engine
Awesome good job! And you saved a butt load of$😊
I hope more people tune in to your channel. Very good video. Thanks!
Man, this is the best video I have found for this. Thank you so much for explaining how to make sure we keep the timing in place and what the marks mean! I now think I can do this job on our 2016 T&C!
Tackling this job at work today. Thank you for being the one video with the exact info I need, you're a lifesaver man
How’d it go?
I had mechanic shop want around $4300. To do this job. I have 193,000 miles on my Chrysler 200c 3.6 and decided not to have it done. I have already been in the engine with replacing the oil filter housing so I have a understanding what it takes to get most of stuff off. Even with the rollers, shafts, tools, and maybe one cam to replace I am looking at $300 to $400. Maybe Two cigars n couple beers for this job. Great video. Along with motor city mechanic an second reference.
Just order the parts online I got all 24 rockers and lifters for 500 and paid 1k to put them on
I done mine myself 7or 8 years ago it cost me about 500 bucks for oem lifters and rocker arms. It had 150,000 mi on it then, it knows has 290.000 mi. And flex plate cracked last week . I already have the trans. Out and put new rear oil seal and new flex plate and trans seal. Just have to re install trans. Yes there was beer involved in this work! We save a lot of money doing it ourselves! I bought this Chrysler town and country new in 2012 and it's still real nice so I'd rather do the repairs than buy a new over priced vehicle! Who knows maybe I can get 400,000 mi. Out of it
2 cigars and a couple beers? I think you are underestimating the difficulty and attention to detail this job requires. This isn't really a diy job for novice. One wrong move and kaboom. Not to mention he is using years of experience to make it look easy. There are a million ways to f yourself and destroy the engine or make the job much more difficult. There are techniques for getting things to line up, a feel for bolts reaching their breaking point, etc. Things you only learn from experience
@@misterwenel1979what exactly can go wrong with the engine when working on these?
Just want to thank you for the suggestion of pulling the fan shroud. Actually saved a lot of time and frustration.
Thank for an amazing and thorough video. Mine started to tick last week. Bought new lifters and gaskets for less than $100. Was one lifter (farthest from timing chain) on the front bank so changed just that as didn't want to mess with the timing. Took about 3.5 hours in all and ticking has gone! Your advice on torque numbers and getting to those front backets was brilliant. Thanks so much again!
Getting ready to tackle one of these and was hunting for tips, tricks, etc. Great video with in depth info! Thank you!
Thanks for going into detail with this repair!
I just replaced a set of rockers using this video as a guild. Although the cams were in good shape and I just had to loosen the T30 bolts to get the job done. Thanks for your video!
Excellent directions, video, and pointers! Just completed my right bank this weekend. New Intake Cam (Mopar), roller rockers and lifters (Melling)
Awesome! That's a nice accomplishment 👍
Great video! I have the 3.6 and have 3 rockers that are out. Fixing now.
Thanks! Glad this was helpful. It's a big job but if you can tackle it yourself you save big time 👍
The best video on UA-cam for doing this job. Great job.
Thanks! Glad this was helpful 🙂
Thank you sir!
Thanks for video
Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO!!...
Just did a rocker arm and injector on mine with 115k. Took a few hours but got it don’t and she’s running fine with no tick or hesitation anymore!
Did you have to reset/relearn the cam phasers?There was another video where a guy made that claim.
@@D4MI0N I’m sure there was a lot or things I didn’t do to spec but I don’t have a torque wrench to even hit spec. I just loosened it and tightened it after. I posted a video of a little recap
Awesome video you are very detailed
Glad this was helpful 👍
11:58 glad I wasn't the only one to have problems with those brackets in the way of removing the valve cover.
How did you end up getting them off? I couldn't even get my wrench head on the nut.
@Belal Khan you pull the fan out. He covers that in the video. I did this job yesterday and couldn't have done it without that tip!
This looks like a complete nightmare. Great job by the way.
New here. Just found this. great video.
Thanks JC! Welcome to the channel 👊
Great video. I may need to do this soon on my 2015 Chrysler 200. It only has 47k miles and I think I'm hearing ticking, or I'm just paranoid lol.
This was a very long journey going into this repair and it's funny it's now showing up on my feed after I went into this repair without looking at the diagram. 200 miles later she's quiet and runs so silent.
Excellent Job i found some needles in my oil pan looks like someone might have worked on top half of engine before hopefully they did the rockers i will keep listening for any noises or ticking will the bearings get into the oil pump also or no hopefully not thanks!
Yea humble man
Done a million oil coolers on these but haven't been much deeper than that till today. Did all cams, rockers and lifters. Runs flawlessly now. Your video was more helpful than Alldata. Thank you.
Heck I just wish you was in Oklahoma! I have the same exact vehicle that started the issue yesterday.
I watch so many of these repairs. The hot rod guys had problems with needle bearing roller lifters, their solution was to go back to simple sleeved bearing rollers. Sleeved bearing better distribute load and don't leave needle trash though whole engine. Just think, engine crank loads are handled with sleeved bearings for thousands of miles. Someone aftermarket should make these sleeved bearing roller rockers and permanently solve the 3.6 roller rocker problem. My old 90s V6 has simple sleeved roller rockers with no issues.
That's what I was just wondering...like is this same problem gonna pop back up again down the road with similar mileage/usage on this engine or is it a fix it 2 get it running again & sell the pos kind of deal!?!
the difference is crank bearings are pressure lubed , the needle bearings on the rockers are not ,thats why i think they use the needle bearings.
This is the best instructional video, pay attention. **IMPORTANT - do NOT soak new HLAs in oil bath as directed here, ie. fill them with oil before installation, this technique was consistent with the way we used to handle hydraulic lifters in rebuilds for non-overhead cam jobs. But i damaged intake valve guides and had to have the heads reworked because the HLAs were full of oil. A simple mistake that cost me $3500 to get repaired. NEVER fill the HLAs before install, bleed them to ensure this does not happen to you!!
Hey thanks for your comment. Sorry you had that experience. I showed the rockers being soaked in oil to lubricate the roller bearings inside. We didn't replace the lifters on this one. But the manual does say to make sure the "hydraulic lifters (HLAs) are at least partially full of oil before installation. There should be little or no plunger travel when the lifter is depressed". Hope this helps 👍
You are correct sir, i made this comment specifically about information that I just provided in another popular howto video and copied it here, since i felt yours was the best one, i just want to let others know that "if" HLAs are being replaced then they should be very careful about how they do so, else damage will result. Otherwise most informative and noted that you got back to the comment so promptly. Thanks for your support..
@@user-ye4or7xq4w Thank you! It's sad this rocker arm issue is affecting so many people 😕
I had mine soaking for weeks due to life circumstances and I didn't have any issues
Totally agree! I replaced it last year though 😅.
I got everything torn down and don’t have significant cam wear but some light scoring on rocker bearings.
Can that notorious tick be a cam phaser or something else?
I have to do one of these at the dodge dealership I just started at. I’m glad it’s a grand Cherokee, so the engine is pointed in the right direction 🤣. Good info though. Service data didn’t show the pinhole to release the tensioner.
About to tackle this on our 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan - a thousand thank You's for making such a great explanation of all of the steps required. After seeing how it's done like this it seems far less intimidating to do. Excellent Video!
How did it go?
@@futurenap I have the Rockers and Lifters and we are earning money for the Cams now - I'll update you when I've gotten it done. 👍
Videos help a lot. But it’s still a lot of work. There is no greater disappointment than finishing and still having the same noise. As with ours, it was due to affordable set of rocker arms and lifters found on Amazon. We had to do the job again but this time without sparing the expense. Buying the latest (8th) revision from a reputable Mopar supplier. Purrs like a kitten again.
Intake is out 5:39 Determine which Rocker arm needs replacement and How to.. starts at 14:20
Do you have torque specs for valve cover screws and cam screws?
Do you think it would of been worthy to replace the phasers and the oil control valves since you were in there? And maybe replacing the Oil filter housing since these engines have that problem! Im just curious on your opinions of it!
I just did this to my 2014 Grand Caravan while i had it apart i replaced all the rockers and the lifters
Don't use electric tools on taking torx bolts off use a hand ratchet also use engine builders lube on the cam shaft
Awesome video, thank you very much.
Did you only drain coolant because you were replacing thermostat?
Mostly it's because you need to remove the upper radiator hose. So draining the coolant ahead of time will make taking that off less messy. And having the coolant already drained makes changing the thermostat a good idea 👍
Great work you did, and explained it all. I have to replace one of the engine mounts, should I replace them all on my 2014 Town and Country Van? Plus all the light come on the dash ever so often, specialy when it's wet and cold out. Not so much during the summer. I think there is something loose but I can't figure out where it might be. Do you have any idea's???
I would replace them all. They are known for going bad. I'm not sure about the lights coming on. Do you have any codes with a scan tool?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Yes I did have the codes for the cadlic converter. sensor 1 PO 420, and sensor bank 2 PO 430. Plus the engine started making a ticking noise, I think it's a lifter. Don't know if that would case the problem with the dash lights.
Hi Robert, awesome video thankyou 😊 i changed all rockers and lifters with genuine mopar parts, (had them sent from US to Australia) put back together sounded good for a few minutes then the ticking came back. Any ideas? Oil not getting up? Everything looked good on removal found one cam was slightly worn i did also replace this camshaft.
Thanks
Darren
Hey Darren, when you hear the ticking unplug the purge solenoid electrical connector and see if what you hear goes away. Another thought is a lifter is still working out some air and it will clear up.
If you change cams do you have to re learn the new ones?
I love driving my Cherokee trailhawk, but it has been the most difficult car to work on by far. My last car was a Subaru forester, and I’m going back to that. Second easiest car to work on I’ve ever had. Why did you do this Chrysler?!?!
Thanks again for the video. But why do we have to drain coolant?
I had the same question as well. I’m working only on the right (back) side and I didn’t have to remove the coolant. Not sure if it’s different for the front side.
Also after a longer drive, which car drives very good I still have code and a second P0018.
The appeared to be in same spot. Does the computer need to be relearned? I also have a code P000D
Do you use any kind of locktite on any bolts?
Amazing video. You explained and showed the work involved. Wish I had the tools, space and knowledge to tackle this myself. My mechanic says to sell the vehicle asap, I just bought it 13 months ago. Explained I heard something off several months ago, no one listened, then a couple days ago, I'm going up a hill to home and " a rippling chug chug chug and engine dies, dead in the water on the side of the road. With flashers on, engine off, I back down the highway to a safe spot. End result, mechanic says that a rocker had jumped off its place and held open a valve, and he was surprised it didn't do more damage. I was seriously lucky. He replaced that rocker and said it was tooo expensive to do all the work it needs. To sell asap instead. The rest of the vehicle seems fine, last gas up mileage was 215604 km. Should I sell? and if so what do I need to tell the next owner or is there another way? Thanks in advance and especially your enlightening video.
That's a tough question. These are overall decent engines. If all it needs is a rocker and lifter job along with a couple camshafts then that's not too bad. But if it's looking like it needs a bunch more work then weigh the cost of repairs vs buying a different car. How is the transmission? Things to think about 🤔
on that note I have an echo button that engages multiple gears in the transmission to save on fuel. in your opinion would this negatively effect the transmissions longevity? @@ValleyMobileAutomotive
How do you know the torque for the bolts ?
Hi, was wondering if the thermostat had to be removed? Also thanks, I too had a hard time removing that front bold, wish I thought of removing the fan.
No, the thermostat was only replaced because the opportunity was there. Otherwise it can stay in 👍
Thanks. What would you suggest for cleaning the cam phasers and the bolt/ oil valves. Any ideas on how way to manually get them clean would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking of using an engine flush but since I’ll be replacing the rockers and lifters they’ll be coming off anyway.
How do I make my arrows align? Ones pointing up and ones pointing down currently on the front, is there a way to manually spin it so I can make sure they line up?
Put a socket and a ratchet on the crank pulley and turn it clockwise until they line up.
Do think if you had a shallow 36mm socket you wouldn’t have to jack up the engine? And did you check the lifters do they go bad?
Yeah I think a shallow 36mm would have made it better. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifter under the bad rockers. If you want to replace all the lifters that's up to you. The price can add up quick, it's tempting to go with cheaper parts but I would only recommend OEM (they're updated) or Melling brand.
Great video, btw. The problem I'm having on a 2015 Jeep Cherokee is getting the back valve cover off. It's like it's stuck in that area where the sealant goes on the back side and it has a major grip on it. On the front valve cover, it took having to slide a thin scraper to release it but that stock gasket seems to have some grip but of course, there's no space to do that on the back side. I do have the PCV out and the VVT solenoids off, all 12 valve cover bolts undone, all wiring out of the way, but it's just seeming to hang up on the back side. Any ideas or secrets? (stuck in garage at 4:30pm Sunday afternoon...ha)
Sometimes tapping the cover with a rubber mallet can break it loose or a small pry bar. You just need to be careful where you place the pry bar. That's how I got these off was finessing it with a pry bar.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Hey, thanks for the reply. It ended up being that the stock gasket was holding it down worse than the front bank gasket. Almost like the Permatex wanted to be Permanent. ha. Finally came off and got the back bank done quicker than the front.
What if the arrows on the cams are not alined when I open them ?
EXCELLENT VIDEO, very well explained, I wanted to ask you, do these motors have a manufacturing defect that causes this damage? Or is there some other factor that causes this damage?
Hey thanks 👍. Unfortunately it's a manufacturing defect. No fault of the customer and not preventable as far as I know. The new parts have been updated by the manufacturer.
I want to first say thank you for taking the time to make a video like this to help people out. However, the absolutely MOST important parts of the procedure were glossed over and cause so much trouble if not done properly. For both sides, closer, clearer video showing the timing tool insertion would have saved my buddy and surely many others from losing the timing when the chain dropped off of the crank gears. The whole point of those tools is to prevent that and it is SUPER important to get those timing tools slid down right. Please please please be more thorough with the timing tool parts in the future. I've got to help tear the front of an engine off now to reset the timing :(.
Ah man! Sorry that happened 😕. At time index 19:45 I have the chain still on the phasers and the cam locking tool in between to keep the chain tight. This is a safety precaution so if something goes wrong you won't lose the chain and it stays in time. I appreciate your advice and I'll try to be more detailed in future videos 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thank you! I probably shouldn't have written a nag comment. I was a bit grumpy when I saw what he had done. Without these videos pretty much everyone would be out a lot of $$$$ going to the dealer.
Hey I think I may have left the phaser lock tool in when rotating the engine. It wasn’t fully pushed in on the teeth so I’m not even sure if it messed anything up but I noticed the 12 links on the chain are a little different when rotating the engine.
Your example shows the 12 links like this ⬇️
.. .. .. .. .. ..
Mine shows the links like that as well but when I rotate the engine and phasers make a full rotation there’s still 12 links between the triangle and circle except their lines like this now ⬇️
. .. .. .. .. .. .
Is that normal or did I mess up the timing ? I just wanted to make sure before putting everything back together. I hope my question makes sense. Does the 12 links have to look exactly like yours or does it just have to have the 12 links/circles and it’s good ?
I don't think you can rotate the engine with the phaser lock in. It will prevent the cams from moving. Because the chain is connected to the crank if the cams can't move then the crank can't move. Do the marks on the front of the phasers still line up? One set pointing towards each other and the other set opposing?
I have 5 days of warranty left before my 5 years is up. You take it in for a ticking got a recording of it and the dealer says it's normal and clearly it's not. My neighbor's side by side doesn't make the same ticking noise
There's another video on this where the mechanic said he had to reset/relearn the cam phasers. Is that necessary if you put everything back in its original location.
I've done a number of these and I haven't run into any issues needing a relearn. I guess it never hurts. I don't remember the manual mentioning it but I may be wrong 🤔
Great video!! Do you have a link to the parts used?
Thanks! I don't have a link to the parts but I recommend using the updated Mopar parts. You can find online Mopar dealers. I recommend staying away from eBay deals that are too good to be true.
9:43 I'm having a really hard time even getting my wrench head even on the bolt holding on the bracket. Is a flex head required to take this nut off?
I didn't try with anything else. Even with the flex head it's a butt getting to those bolts. Pulling the upper radiator hose and fan shroud I think is the ticket.
Is the engine good after this!?! Or are you just replacing the rocker arms w/ the same needle-bearing style & the issue will eventually come back up again with similar mileage/usage?
Good question. Dodge updated the rockers to be more robust. Once replaced the new parts should last a very long time. Other manufacturers use a similar roller follower design without issues. Dodge engineering just missed the mark on this generation's design.
My Dodge had this ticking. After an oil change it went away.
Shortly thereafter, the engine misfired and had low compression.
The workshop does not know what to do, what it could be. You don't know the engine.
I live in Germany.
Does anyone have a hint?
Hi. Does it have the same replacement principle for dodge (journey) with 2,4 engine?
Thank you
No. The 2.4 is designed differently. It uses what's called a "bucket tappet" instead of rocker arms. If you pull the valve cover off you'll immediately notice the difference.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotivethank you for your response. I guess I need to buy an engine manual just in case)thank you for a great video
Did you put the engine at TDC before removing the cams?
Yes, you need to line up the timing marks on the cams.
Thanks well explained and shown do you happen to have one of doing the valves as I purchased a van the timing had jumped and possibly have bent valves
Unfortunately I don't. If a valve is bent the head would need to be pulled off and either taken to a machine shop to make sure the head wasn't damaged or just purchase an already remanned head. Also look closely at the top of the piston for excess damage.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive don’t usually know what to look for in these cases i I’m just a basic maintenance guy that can’t afford to pay anyone to do things to my vehicle that go wrong other than a safety check could you see anything through some photos for suggestions I have intake off and have 2 ports that are dry and 4 that are wet a code comes up with bank 2 sensor 2 so I’m assuming it’s the front idk whether timing jumped and engine is salvageable if I try to have it timed up
Can’t attach any photos here:(
What are the code numbers that you have? A bent valve will cause a cylinder misfire.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive multiple cylinder misfire po300. PO0013 PO1108 is what I have now. I have 4 intakes that are wet with intake off and 2 that are dry. Debating on whether I should fix it or not if I had an idea of scenario I wouldn’t hesitate to give it a shot. Do you need timing cover off to setup the timing or can I go buy the most marks that are on I drove it 40 Kilometres to my brothers place after purchasing it. Limited supply of power pressing gas hard go easy on it it will pickup speed. Runs great idling at1000 RPMs never knew there was a musfire
Another question I have... I have the valve cover off and noticed my timming is not in the right position. Do I crank the motor over to achieve the description of chain pins, dots, and arrows that you have? 2012 3.6 is what I'm working on
Yes. You might need to remove the passenger tire to put a socket on the crank shaft pulley. Then turn the engine clockwise to put the timing in the correct place.
Thank you!
So when I start my 200, is the process the same for turning off the injectors? Just hold the pedal down? I am ready to start the vehicle today after I change the oil. Mine also had a bad engine oil cooler. So I upgraded it to an all aluminum one.
You may have well done the lifters also, they have been know to collapse.
You don’t mention anything about the Hydraulic Valve lifters getting too soft and allowing the rockers make noise too.
They should be checked also.
Good day, so I completed the work on my 2015 Chrysler 200c 3.6l. Needed a bank 1 intake camshaft and band2 exhaust camshaft. Of course with all the rollers etc.
Question: I started it up on second day a have engine light with code P000D . What do you think. It runs good
So what happened? How did you fix it?
There's no reason to replace the cam as long as the center of the lobe is good. The rollers don't touch the edge of the cam lobe.
Hey Mark, thanks for the comment. What tends to happen once the rocker bearings go out is the roller seizes. This will "flatten" the cam lobe a bit changing how the valve opens and closes. After all this work it would suck to have an issue. Cams aren't cheap but it's assurance you won't have any issues down the line 👍
One more question if you're around. I just finished up this job on my daughters 2015 Cherokee 3.2l v6 (all 24 rockers and lifters) and got it all back together but it's not starting. Well, it cranks but no start. Believe me that I went over both sides with a fine tooth comb before putting valve covers back on to make sure everything was still TDC and nothing in the way. All plugs and hoses are back on, confirmed 3 times, but no start. I unfortunately don't have a code reader here (dangit...ugh) so I can't check that as I do have the check engine light in. I know, I know....shoulda had that here already. But what I really question is if I got the front bank VVT solenoids backwards, could it cause it to not start but crank? Thanks in advance for any input!
I wouldn't think the VVT solenoids would cause it not to start. The part numbers are the same regardless of the position so you should be able to interchange them and it still function properly. There are too many variables to throw out an idea but if you were to gather any codes and post them here I can walk you through some diagnostics 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Going to tell you honestly what happened as it was my fault. I was wrong to assume that I "assumed" that these engines could do the "clear flood mode" like others can and, well, that did not work. It basically flooded it. I was all beside myself for 3 hours and had a code reader delivered to check for any weirdness...which there was none. Tried starting it again and it would almost "grab". Gave it the one last college try and it started....ran rough for about 30 seconds...then cleared up! Obviously, I was elated as she was purring like a kitten. ha. I'm too old for this crap (57). I have a great respect for what you do every day for a living and appreciate you helping out others.
@@avguytx4361 Nice! Glad it worked out 👍
While prepping to replace rocker arms I removed center ignition coil on right bank and discovered lots of oil in the tube. How does that happen? The valve cover was quite messy and I had the oil filter housing replaced recently due to oil leak.
When you replace the valve cover gasket you should also replace the spark plug tube seals. That's where the oil is coming from.
Ok. Replaced those gaskets. Now I have two screws left over. The little ones used to attach pcv and oil control valves. I only did the right(rear) bank. Any suggestions? Haha
Found the spots! Lower screw holes on oil control valves.
What if one of them breaks ? Inside while running the engine ,?
It depends on how it breaks. The worst case scenario is it breaks in a way that keeps the valve open. The piston head can run into the open valve damaging the piston and bending a valve. In that case the engine would need to be replaced or rebuilt if possible.
2014 T&C “cylinder head replacement” 134,000. Is this a design failure or lowest bid on parts for the components? Bought the minivan new with FCA Max Care Lifetime Warranty. Owned several Chrysler vehicles. “Past Performance is an Indication of Future Results”?
The original rocker arms were a design flaw. Mopar has updated their design to address the flaw. I'm not sure about the quality of aftermarket parts though. I haven't seen repeat failures after replacement with the updated parts from Chrysler but time will tell.
@Valley Mobile Automotive Don't know when they changed the design but now I have to change 3 cams in my 2016 Town&Country.
Does anyone recommend something to prevent this from happening to my charger 3.6, I always have to change the oil for a while?
No matter what oil you use or how often you change it this is going to happen.
You can buy a oil filter kit that converts it into a different oil filter, a normal oil filter that has a check valve built in like all metal canister oil filters have that will keep the oil from draining down when engine is off so when you start the engine it isn't waiting 4 seconds for the oil to get back up to the top of engine. The kit may be for jeeps only
Fellow mechanic here 🤚🏼 my question is wouldn’t their be metal shavings in the engine already ?
Is there any reason why these lifters and rockers go bad on so many of these 3.6? My charger is doing it and it seems this is a notorious thing for these engines. If I could find the root cause of what destroys the rocker arms and lifters and sometimes can, I might as well fix that too so that it doesn’t happen again.
My understanding is that it's a manufacturing flaw in the original parts. Once you replace them with either the updated Mopar part or a high quality aftermarket part like Melling you shouldn't have this issue again.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive thanks for the response. It’s a shame these motors are doing this. Some even as soon as 40k miles.
Do the lifters also need to be replaced or is there a process for checking them as well?
I haven't heard of the lifters being a common failure point on these. But checking them is easy. When you pull them out they look like a bullet. Squeeze the "bullet" longways with your finger. They should feel firm. If they collapse with little effort they should be replaced. Also check the contact surface for scoring, mushrooming or any other deformity 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Thank you! my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee started ticking a few days ago so I am gearing up to replace the rockers hoping my cam shaft survived!
@@NickCohoon you're welcome! If you have any other questions feel free to reach out 👍. A couple uber important points to keep in mind is to keep each vvt solenoid and phaser bolt marked and put back on the cam they came off of. And be careful with the cam position sensor tone rings when you remove the cams 👍
Anyone else have issues getting the cam phaser blocks inserted into the rear cams? I could only get it in about half way😢
Probably have to cut block in half
Just replaced all 24 rocker arms and lifters and now I’m getting a tick only on acceleration (quiet at idol), any ideas?
U had a defected rocker that had play in it already and it’s gonna get worse over time
Did you find anything
Will u fix mine?
What’s your quickest time from start to finish?
Book time to pull all the camshafts is 6hrs then add about an hour to replace all the followers. If you've done it before you can do everything easily within a day. The problem is you won't know if or which cam needs to be replaced so it might sit a while for the cam to arrive.
This video help me a lot. Once I put the new lifters and rockers on the left side (All painted references looked good) I turned the engine by hand from the crank bolt as a sanity check and see that the painted chain reference seems to be four teeth off. Is this normal? Dots and arrows are lined up and I have 5 link plates between the triangle nd circle; 7 plated if you count the ones on the triangle and circle. Thanks!
Yep, once you spin the engine your painted marks will no longer line up. Perfectly normal. Just make sure the stamped marks line up and there are the right number of links between the two phasers you should be good to go 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Big relief. Thank you Robert(?)!!!
did you have a link for the cam holding tools?
Thanks for the reminder! I just posted it in the description 👍
Thank you!
Why'd you skip the part where you removed the spark plugs?
Where are you located?
I initially thought Woody Harrelson was doing this video until I saw the mechanic.
Did I miss the part where we actually hear the ticking?
Good video but you need to zoom in more so we can get a close up view
Thanks for the editing tip 👍. I'm trying to employ that in my newer videos.
How long will it take to do both sides..
If you have all the parts in hand I'd plan on a long weekend. You might be able to do it in a day depending on your skill level. But be prepared for two days just in case.
that's why my mechanic says to sell and buy a new caravan, he doesn't want to do the time and I certainly can't afford his wages. wow, now I'm more sad.
0:25. Where do you show what it sounds like?
Later in the video I explain that I got so focused on the repair that I forgot to record the sound. It is a pretty noticeable engine noise though.
👍🏿👍🏿
Did you apply any sealant on the gasket ?
No sealant needed. These are rubber gaskets and seal on their own really well 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive okay I see do you really have to remove the cam shaft all the way to replace the broken rocker lifters ?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive or can you work around it don’t really want to mess with the timing chain but if I have to I will
@@kEEPITMOVIN408 I have seen one person unbolt the cam but leave the cap next to the chain and use a pry bar to lift up the cam. But if you do this method you need to be very careful not to break the cap. Also you can't replace a cam if needed without using the special chain tool.
Cylinder head was replaced 2 months ago on my 2014 T&C. Code P0302. Guess what? Cylinder head was again replaced! Code P0306.
Dealer says $3000 each time. Fortunately, I bought the Chrysler Lifetime Maximum Warranty which covered the repair. Having owned 4 Chrysler minivans over the past 20 years……extended warranty a must have.
Wow that's crazy! Good thing you had the warranty!
So they replaced heads because of a misfire ? Doesn't sound right
How many miles on this gem?
I can't remember. I think around 160k.
You can see when he starts it its at 135k.
I'm getting a tick at 90k on my wife's 2011. Probably looking at getting her a new car, then tackling this before we sell it. Thanks for the video!
Why do mechanic don't clean the motor before working on it
Why is all the difficult stuff missed in the video. Seems like a common theme
Hey Paul, what part were you looking for in particular? Maybe I can help answer your question.
The back side is much worse to get to
Where is your location ?
It's a Van! You're better off driving it into the ground. 10$ rocker arms isn't worth the investment.
I got to the back phaser nut by simply cutting down the socket,