One of the main issues with the factory diff breather is that when your diff lube is hot and you are in the water, when the valve shuts is does not allow air back in, as the lube cools it creates a vacuum and can pull water in through your axel seals. This was a common problem with Gen 3 4Runners and Gen 1 Tacos. There were several reasonable fixes on the forums. I do like the ARB package and that you could effectively provide proper breathing to all the diffs and transfer case.
interesting as I do beach launching of my boat. I was unaware of the diff and a breather. This is quality info, Thank you again for helping me with my Gen 3
@Taco Twonz when will you complete/protect the other 3 water entry points/breathers (i.e. front diff, transmission and transfer case) and post a video of that install? Those 3 are probably the most over looked water entry points, and most expensive to repair but cheapest to prevent, on the 3rd gen Tacoma. Also, the reason ARB gives you multiple manifold connect points and so much hose, is so you can do those other 3 on top of rear diff. Think viewers would benefit most from that install video (Hopefully coming very soon...).
Those already have breather lines run into the engine bay. They're not as high up as this, but you'd still have to get in pretty deep to submerge them.
@@bradenb Respect your perspective. And yes the stock lines are a bit higher than the rear diff stock breather but they're about as high as the uca upper through bolt and well within what a lot of drivers expose themselves to when speeding through a rainy day deep puddle. The splash up alone can cause damage. The actuators fail because of this all the time, and the cheap breathers on the Tacomas are very susceptible to water inlet, especially for the drivers reading and researching these comments. For those that regularly water cross even in 1' of water, will slowly cause expensive damage that this cheap fix can prevent.
The location isn't the issue. It's vacuum caused by cooling of the axle housing when being suddenly submerged in water. The water is being sucked in through you axle seals. The check valve isn't letting anything in. The ARB kit eliminates the potential for a vacuum by equalizing the pressure all the time. That is why the ARB kit has to be mounted high.
So you went all the way down with the new breather? It seemed like I was cross threading so I didn’t go all the way down (it wasn’t) Maybe it was my kit but the breathers were slightly different sizes (one was too big). I went probably 3/4 of the way down because it was so tight
what about launching my boat of a beach twice a year. I'm def. over the diff in water almost to the low front door would this be a good addition or will the stock one be ok. i'm in the water maybe 5 mins at most. but not moving .... thanks
Question about the rear dif skid. Does it have something that prevents it from spinning if you hit it hard enough? A buddy hit his and it rotated up cutting his ABS lines.
This looks very very similar to (if not identical to) the RCI rear diff skid. It has a collar that locks around the pinion assembly where it connects to the driveshaft so it shouldn't be able to rotate.
I’ll be ordering those when I get home. I meant to order the other day when on your site. Few days I’ll order them get them ready for me plz and thank you. Oh and I need a sticker as well plz.
I keep seeing people say that the front diff has a breather already in the engine bay, but are those stock breathers one way? So if you submerge a hot front diff and cool it quickly could cause a vacuum closing the front diff breather? Which could cause you to possibly suck water in from the axle seals?
have the arb diff breather on our 4R and I'm sure it has paid off a couple of times lol. Just the other weekend went up to Goose Lake outside of Red River and I'm certain that rear diff was fully underwater lol. Well me looking at adding it to the front diff when we do the re-gear here soon.
I have seen several youtubers (both Australian and American) who have said there is a problem with oil blow through (using a common under-hood mounting point). one ended up replacing the ARB puck with an oil catch can that was plumbed with a sight glass so they could see how much oil was in the catch can. I will be interested in seeing an update down the road if you get any oil blow through. Here in east TN if it is not a water crossing, it is a rocker deep mud hole. I have been seriously considering installing a breather kit of some form for the front and rear axles)
Man... I just installed my ARB kit about a month ago. Almost identical except I ended up just leaving about 18 inches coiled up above the diff for articulation. I wish I had thought to do it how you did it. If you're tied to that existing wire harness then you should have all the flex you need. I loved this kit, but I hate how stiff the ARB tubing is. It makes it very hard to work with, especially around bends.
@@Runnin4Tacos Not sure. It's a pretty common complaint from what I've seen. But the way you routed it was a lot more direct so maybe that helped. With mine since I left a bunch of coiled slack I had to leave more than I wanted to complete a full loop because I couldn't bend it more than about 45 degrees without fearing I would kink it. In the end it worked out well and is holding up. They probably chose this line because it's so strong.
Just plug up the holes with foam. Most of the foam I've used is from the Plano cases I get for my long rifles and firearms. Keeps dust out of those tail light housings.
One of the main issues with the factory diff breather is that when your diff lube is hot and you are in the water, when the valve shuts is does not allow air back in, as the lube cools it creates a vacuum and can pull water in through your axel seals. This was a common problem with Gen 3 4Runners and Gen 1 Tacos. There were several reasonable fixes on the forums. I do like the ARB package and that you could effectively provide proper breathing to all the diffs and transfer case.
I swear, as soon as i am ready for the next upgrade you guys come out with the install video right when I need it! 😎🤙
😁
interesting as I do beach launching of my boat. I was unaware of the diff and a breather. This is quality info, Thank you again for helping me with my Gen 3
Glad we can help!
Neat kit but u can make it for under 20 bucks urself
Did you leave enough slack for full articulation? Seemed a bit tight from diff to the first cable tie.
@Taco Twonz when will you complete/protect the other 3 water entry points/breathers (i.e. front diff, transmission and transfer case) and post a video of that install? Those 3 are probably the most over looked water entry points, and most expensive to repair but cheapest to prevent, on the 3rd gen Tacoma. Also, the reason ARB gives you multiple manifold connect points and so much hose, is so you can do those other 3 on top of rear diff. Think viewers would benefit most from that install video (Hopefully coming very soon...).
Those already have breather lines run into the engine bay. They're not as high up as this, but you'd still have to get in pretty deep to submerge them.
@@bradenb Respect your perspective. And yes the stock lines are a bit higher than the rear diff stock breather but they're about as high as the uca upper through bolt and well within what a lot of drivers expose themselves to when speeding through a rainy day deep puddle. The splash up alone can cause damage. The actuators fail because of this all the time, and the cheap breathers on the Tacomas are very susceptible to water inlet, especially for the drivers reading and researching these comments. For those that regularly water cross even in 1' of water, will slowly cause expensive damage that this cheap fix can prevent.
Like Braden said, those are about the top of the front shocks so not as needed. Most of us don't plan to go through engine high waters
@@Runnin4Tacos Okay...
@@JesusWSalazar really? 1" of water? Smh
The location isn't the issue. It's vacuum caused by cooling of the axle housing when being suddenly submerged in water. The water is being sucked in through you axle seals. The check valve isn't letting anything in. The ARB kit eliminates the potential for a vacuum by equalizing the pressure all the time. That is why the ARB kit has to be mounted high.
So you went all the way down with the new breather? It seemed like I was cross threading so I didn’t go all the way down (it wasn’t) Maybe it was my kit but the breathers were slightly different sizes (one was too big). I went probably 3/4 of the way down because it was so tight
what about launching my boat of a beach twice a year. I'm def. over the diff in water almost to the low front door would this be a good addition or will the stock one be ok. i'm in the water maybe 5 mins at most. but not moving .... thanks
Question about the rear dif skid. Does it have something that prevents it from spinning if you hit it hard enough? A buddy hit his and it rotated up cutting his ABS lines.
This looks very very similar to (if not identical to) the RCI rear diff skid. It has a collar that locks around the pinion assembly where it connects to the driveshaft so it shouldn't be able to rotate.
Like Bredan said, it's similar to the RCI and C4 so there won't be any issues. We've been testing it and hitting it on the trails with no issues
Easy and clean install. Glad there is a kit. I like this better than the home brew versions.
I’ll be ordering those when I get home. I meant to order the other day when on your site. Few days I’ll order them get them ready for me plz and thank you. Oh and I need a sticker as well plz.
Gotchu! Should be getting a sticker with it
I keep seeing people say that the front diff has a breather already in the engine bay, but are those stock breathers one way? So if you submerge a hot front diff and cool it quickly could cause a vacuum closing the front diff breather? Which could cause you to possibly suck water in from the axle seals?
have the arb diff breather on our 4R and I'm sure it has paid off a couple of times lol. Just the other weekend went up to Goose Lake outside of Red River and I'm certain that rear diff was fully underwater lol. Well me looking at adding it to the front diff when we do the re-gear here soon.
What propane tank mount is that?
Great video guys!
I have seen several youtubers (both Australian and American) who have said there is a problem with oil blow through (using a common under-hood mounting point). one ended up replacing the ARB puck with an oil catch can that was plumbed with a sight glass so they could see how much oil was in the catch can. I will be interested in seeing an update down the road if you get any oil blow through.
Here in east TN if it is not a water crossing, it is a rocker deep mud hole. I have been seriously considering installing a breather kit of some form for the front and rear axles)
Interesting. We will be installing a oil catch can soon but not for that reason
Come on, man .... how about some fill light on that camera. You guy do enough videos to know what the benefits of fill light can do.
Just got some and will start using them, thanks for the feedback!
Man... I just installed my ARB kit about a month ago. Almost identical except I ended up just leaving about 18 inches coiled up above the diff for articulation. I wish I had thought to do it how you did it. If you're tied to that existing wire harness then you should have all the flex you need. I loved this kit, but I hate how stiff the ARB tubing is. It makes it very hard to work with, especially around bends.
Is it? It went on pretty easy for us but maybe they changed it since
@@Runnin4Tacos Not sure. It's a pretty common complaint from what I've seen. But the way you routed it was a lot more direct so maybe that helped. With mine since I left a bunch of coiled slack I had to leave more than I wanted to complete a full loop because I couldn't bend it more than about 45 degrees without fearing I would kink it. In the end it worked out well and is holding up. They probably chose this line because it's so strong.
Is it possible to use strong magnets or something other than drilling holes? I don't have the tools necessary to do that.
Did you find out anything about magnet? I am worried the ambient heat may reduce the magnetism.
What is the rear bumper and front bumper you're running?
RRW front and Outgear rear. All on our website under bumpers
Glad I'm not the only one
Truck looks clean. remove a tail light its always sandy up in there!!! No matter what I do lol
Lol yeah it tends to catch all the dirt from the tire
Just plug up the holes with foam. Most of the foam I've used is from the Plano cases I get for my long rifles and firearms. Keeps dust out of those tail light housings.
🤙
Will the skid plates be for 4runners also?
Yessir
👍
What about your front DEF
Doesn't need it
What size hose is that?
I'm not sure, it's what comes in the kit.
Can you do a vid on the ovs awning
Definitely
@@Runnin4Tacos awsome! Tnx🤙