Bought my KR 6.0 F250 with over 150k. No studs, just deleted, piped and coolant filter. SCT tunes and all I do is pull my sleds and a 10k+ camper up hill, both ways, all through Montana. Over 210k now and pulls hard. Heat is what kills the 6.0. Keep it cool and it will run forever.
Thank you. We're going to purchase an 03 excursion Sunday from an older gent. He's had it since 05 and claims it's bulletproofed. It's not rusted out(we're in Ohio, it snows) my only concern was the 6.0. Granted, my buddy's beat the absolute snot out of his 6.0 for years. Its stock and manual, he's young and I can't believe he hasn't popped a u joint yet the way he bangs gears
I’m 20 and not the most knowledgeable on vehicles but doing research since I’m thinking of getting a truck what does it mean when it has a stud or bolt? Is one better than the other or?
Studs will provide better “holding force” on the head/gasket/block connection. Studs also allow you to reuse them given the correct circumstances, as well as provide you with the clamping force needing for higher boost and drive pressure applications.
It's not because your truck has head stud that it means it's been bulletproof. On these 6.0 it is important that you get the head rebuild since they are prone to cracking, warpage and valve guide wear. Also I would get the head o-ringed. Just make sure you have all the documentation when buying one of these truck.
Just found a 2004 f250 super duty for 11k with 154k on it. Going to trade my car in for it. Had a family friend check it out and he aaid there was no rust on the bottom and predicts that it came from down south (I'm in michigan). So this video helps alot going to check it out tomorrow
Bud ill be honest if it wasn't done at a shop with a extremely good rep I would pass on it - my buddy bought one that had all the work done and it's in the shop right now because it wasn't done the right way
When you get them new you reduce the Thermostat Temp. Thats the key to preservation. The manufacturers cause the engine to run hotter as a way of conforming to EPA Emmissions. Smog tech for 25 years. GH PS same thing with the VW watercooled Vanagon.
@@thoroughbreddiesel I'm trying to find the exact spot your looking at. I'm unfamiliar with motors and not sure if Id be able to identify it. Im about to buy a 6.0 that is suppose to be bulletproofed. It's not going good. They said thatbecause of the way it sounds it needs a new ICP sensor. I appreciate that they are fixing it first but honestly I'm having a difficult time trying to know if they are legit. They had to send it to a Diesel machanic days later. So now I wait nervously to buy this with a 1000 down payment that they won't refund. Please help. Thank you
I have a 2003 f250 6.0 I have replaced the plugs n harness, and the injectors. I thought that would take kare of my problem but it didn't. I'm having a hard time starting it cold. I've been having to plug it in to a wall outlet to keep it worm. Can you help?
If you have replaced glow plugs and injectors, I would make sure that your glow plug module is working correctly, check your fuel pressure and verify your FICM voltage.
Get a amp clamp for measuring amperage. Clamp it around both glow plug harness wires coming off the glow plug relay, when its cold out(cold enough the wait to start/glowplug light comes on the dash) turn the key on and you should get around 160+/- amps combined for both banks of glow plugs. This will only be for about 6-8 seconds and then it will start dropping if you get 140-160 amps initally then the glow plug relay is working. The glow plug relay reads off the ambient air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor to tell when it needs to get energised. This would be the cheapest and easiest thing to check without digging into the high pressure oil system. If your really ambitious the next thing to check would be for a clogged screen on the injection pressure regulator located in the high pressure oil pump. The older regulators had a stainless mesh screen that would get clogged with grit, that combined with cold thick oil would starve the high pressure oil system and make it hard to start. As long as it restarts once hot then you can pretty much rule out any leaks in the high pressure oil system from the branch tube, stc fitting, and the case to head tubes as those were prone areas of leakage that would require extensive time and expirence to repair. .......... I was the 6.0 guy when I worked at the International dealership for 10 + years.😁
this was the video that i needed to watch thanks for posting
Glad to hear that!
Thanks buds you have a great channel keep up the great work .yup that cleared it up for me
Still very helpful..
thanks!!
What is the functional difference between the two (studded vs not studded)?
I feel like I hit the lottery after watching this video lol my truck is studded!
💪
Thank i recently bought a dump truck and found out it was studded was about to get done,till i looked at this video
Good explanation my man, I needed this to help me purchase a 6.0 in the new few days. Many thanks yous.
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Thanks a lot for the video.
You are welcome! 6.0 buyers guide video is coming soon.
Great video, fantastic presentation quality! Thank you, this helped me in my search for a "new" used truck.
Happy to help.
Really good audio straight to the point. I can understand what he's saying no goofy music in the background or nothing. Very happy with this video.
Thanks!
in ca, deleted 6.0 s are easy to see. they don't have ca license plates. i am so impressed!
Always swore I would not own a 6.0 PSD. Guess what I just bought? Thanks for the info.
Good luck!
Bought my KR 6.0 F250 with over 150k. No studs, just deleted, piped and coolant filter. SCT tunes and all I do is pull my sleds and a 10k+ camper up hill, both ways, all through Montana. Over 210k now and pulls hard. Heat is what kills the 6.0. Keep it cool and it will run forever.
Drive pressure from running high boost and heat tunes
Best post ever!! Same is true on most engines, trans, components!!!
Thank you very much this just saved me a worry of having to do this.
Thank you for the kind words. This is why we do what we do.
Thoroughbred Diesel I’ve actually bought parts from your business online. Thank you for making these videos.
Thanks man, appreciated
No problem!
@@thoroughbreddiesel i wish i wouldve know that before i bought my 6.0 mann oh well whats the cost to get this process down ??
Wow great way to explain!! Love the content with the engine out. Thank you!
Glad you liked it! You're welcome!
Thank you cause I'm looking at 04 f-350 with 260k runs good and strong but wasn't sure what to look for when they say the heads are studded
Thank you. We're going to purchase an 03 excursion Sunday from an older gent. He's had it since 05 and claims it's bulletproofed. It's not rusted out(we're in Ohio, it snows) my only concern was the 6.0.
Granted, my buddy's beat the absolute snot out of his 6.0 for years. Its stock and manual, he's young and I can't believe he hasn't popped a u joint yet the way he bangs gears
I’m 20 and not the most knowledgeable on vehicles but doing research since I’m thinking of getting a truck what does it mean when it has a stud or bolt? Is one better than the other or?
Studs will provide better “holding force” on the head/gasket/block connection. Studs also allow you to reuse them given the correct circumstances, as well as provide you with the clamping force needing for higher boost and drive pressure applications.
Thoroughbred Diesel thank you
now why exactly is a studded head any better than a bolted head? how can a studded head hold more pressure down that a bolt?
ua-cam.com/video/EuY1-T0kybk/v-deo.html
Because they charge $800 a box.and guess what i have a gasket leak after bullet proofing.😠
Studs have double the clamping force that and bolt
Bruce Reid not torqued correctly
It's not because your truck has head stud that it means it's been bulletproof. On these 6.0 it is important that you get the head rebuild since they are prone to cracking, warpage and valve guide wear. Also I would get the head o-ringed. Just make sure you have all the documentation when buying one of these truck.
Fuckalator kill devil diesel and twisted diesel transmissions. Your welcome
I’m super late but I love your name lol
Thank you SO much for this video.
You are so welcome!
Just found a 2004 f250 super duty for 11k with 154k on it. Going to trade my car in for it. Had a family friend check it out and he aaid there was no rust on the bottom and predicts that it came from down south (I'm in michigan). So this video helps alot going to check it out tomorrow
Awesome video I'm looking at a 06 f350 and the guy said it's been bullet proofed so I know what to look at to know if he was telling the truth!
Bud ill be honest if it wasn't done at a shop with a extremely good rep I would pass on it - my buddy bought one that had all the work done and it's in the shop right now because it wasn't done the right way
There is allot more to it then head studs
What is the difference in factory head bolts and the ARP head bolts. A friend had one done by Ford they used ARP head bolts.
When you get them new you reduce the Thermostat Temp. Thats the key to preservation. The manufacturers cause the engine to run hotter as a way of conforming to EPA Emmissions.
Smog tech for 25 years. GH PS same thing with the VW watercooled Vanagon.
How do you reduce the thermostat temp? Is it an procedure that can be done without a dealership or specialist?
hey so if its not studded what do you see where they are in this video?
I’m saving up for a truck was thinking bullet proofed 6.0 ..hope for the best
Thanks man. Great video
**tips hat* 🍻
Being studded and being studded correctly aren't the same.... ask questions to whoever's selling.. WHO DID THE STUD JOB....WHEN...
Great video. Got to the point. Thanks.
You bet
Thanks guys. Very helpful
Thank you. That is why we make the videos.
So will a bulletproofed 6.0 look like that stud bolt stud bolt...ect or will they ALL be studs?
They will all be studs if the head(s) are studded. Be careful in assuming that a 6.0 is bulletproofed just because it is studded.
@@thoroughbreddiesel I'm trying to find the exact spot your looking at. I'm unfamiliar with motors and not sure if Id be able to identify it. Im about to buy a 6.0 that is suppose to be bulletproofed. It's not going good. They said thatbecause of the way it sounds it needs a new ICP sensor. I appreciate that they are fixing it first but honestly I'm having a difficult time trying to know if they are legit. They had to send it to a Diesel machanic days later. So now I wait nervously to buy this with a 1000 down payment that they won't refund. Please help. Thank you
Thanks. To the point and well explained.
Just too good spot on , great job done
I have a 2003 f250 6.0 I have replaced the plugs n harness, and the injectors. I thought that would take kare of my problem but it didn't.
I'm having a hard time starting it cold.
I've been having to plug it in to a wall outlet to keep it worm.
Can you help?
If you have replaced glow plugs and injectors, I would make sure that your glow plug module is working correctly, check your fuel pressure and verify your FICM voltage.
If it's that cold ya just might need to plug it in
Get a amp clamp for measuring amperage. Clamp it around both glow plug harness wires coming off the glow plug relay, when its cold out(cold enough the wait to start/glowplug light comes on the dash) turn the key on and you should get around 160+/- amps combined for both banks of glow plugs. This will only be for about 6-8 seconds and then it will start dropping if you get 140-160 amps initally then the glow plug relay is working. The glow plug relay reads off the ambient air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor to tell when it needs to get energised. This would be the cheapest and easiest thing to check without digging into the high pressure oil system. If your really ambitious the next thing to check would be for a clogged screen on the injection pressure regulator located in the high pressure oil pump. The older regulators had a stainless mesh screen that would get clogged with grit, that combined with cold thick oil would starve the high pressure oil system and make it hard to start. As long as it restarts once hot then you can pretty much rule out any leaks in the high pressure oil system from the branch tube, stc fitting, and the case to head tubes as those were prone areas of leakage that would require extensive time and expirence to repair. .......... I was the 6.0 guy when I worked at the International dealership for 10 + years.😁
Nobody recommended installing starting for 6.4L? Direct bolt replacement, faster spin, faster pressure faster start
Why you studdering!?
So this engine is half and half?
No. The studs were the headstuds (that's the important part)
The bolts were for the valve cover
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great
Thanks!
Helpful video! Thanks!
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Thoroughbred Diesel 👍
Thanks for the tip, just bought a 6.0 truck that dealer said was studded but provided no proof. Now I can go check mine to be sure.
Was it studded? Just curious
Hey Dummy You Answer my buddy ALEX B He asked you a question!!! now you respond!
Hey pal you dont just go ignoring my old friend Wheelie Kings like this... you best tell us bout them studs right now!!
Hey boss! You better answer to Mikeynuts21 ASAP before i report you to UA-cam!😜
Hey bro you better answer my guy Johnny or were gonna have some problems
You only stud it when u are hauling every day for work
No.
No