I never knew how satisfying it would be to see such a great machine come together. any words to an accidental first time owner would be greatly accepted. Seriously Bravo, thank you for sharing
But the problem is when it breaks it’s totally done your truck is gone so it’s sad you have to pick and chose man I’d still put money away in savings if you do want to keep your loyalty to the 6.0
@@HappyTimes024 that's not true. If you update egr cooler and update oil cooler. Than add a coolant filter kit. You are good to go. Main key is keeping up on oil changes using a 5-40 synthetic oil. It will go 500k
@@MarcoRodriguez-lr2xt sorry for late reply. I went with bullet proof diesel egr cooler and the motorcraft updated/improved oil cooler. Clean oil and clean coolant is key for 6.0.
Another great informative content video! Being mindful of what you are doing, cleaning up everything & taking the time to do it right the first time so you don’t have to go back in after something goes wrong! Thanks for all you do making your videos! Very good informative content.
Considering purchasing a 6.0 with 350K on it. Not for work purposes. Just a nice truck. This is my first video I’ve watched and I have learned quite a bit from you. Thank you!
Man, your explanation is so good, I could never do this myself, but I sure will ask them how they go about doing it if I ever need one. Great video. Thank you.
Fell pros have a nice embossed O ring around the combustion chambers too. You can feel it crush/compress during the torque sequence. I think it really helps seal the cylinders up. These trucks need all the help they can get with 4 head bolts..
You know I'm, buying one of these (05 dually). So I'm watching a ton of vids. There are many guys who make vids and have no idea what they are talking about. Making a long ass vid talking about someone else doing the work, but trying to talk the talk. I like watching the vids when the mechanic is talking about the work and doing the work. Thanks man! This helps me out a lot.
6.0 is a junk engine. It only has 4 studs per cylinder unlike the duramax, cummins and the 7.3, 6.4 and 6.7 all have 6 studs per cylinder. 4 studs was a dumbass design right from the get go! Worst engine ever!
I've put 47k on my 03. Best truck I've ever owned. Pulls 22k all day. Moved me from NorCal to Arizona. 7 trips hauling 20k each time. No problem. That's 14k miles. Just replaced injectors and hpop. Lifetime warranty on the hpop and 3 year warranty on injectors from O'Riley. Runs like a dream.
Been using razors to flat sand blocks for years now, I will never use a die grinder again. They don’t need to be shiny, they need to be flat. Definitely engines with liners, it’s critical not to cut material away that you can’t get back. After that its good to check it with a straight edge for deck flatness to make certain you have no low spots 👍🏽 great vid bud.
Grar job thanks for sharing just had my 03 F350 104k miles head studded, eger delete new oil cooler,coolant by pass hoses & Garrett turbo done this week.
You should always run a tap or thread chaser into the head bolt holes to clean them before installing studs or bolts. Also, while heads are removed, replace the lifters. They are prone to failure.
@@lonniefreeman4278 Yes, they are a weak point. The cam needs to be checked for worn lobes also. Poor design, that you can’t get to the lifters from the top end. A 40 dollar part, that is prone to failing, can trash the whole engine.
I like the videos and I don't normally comment but I noticed that you do the headstuds the same way I was doing them until I watched a video from Wade at thoroughbred diesel where he has a guest speaker Mike Cunningham from ARP showing how it's done. I highly recommend you and the viewers watch it. Love the videos keep them coming.
Not a 6.0, but we have a 6.7 (Cummins) in the shop right now that JUST had the head gasket done, and it’s blown on cylinder 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 because someone was too aggressive trying to clean the block surface up. Idiots + engines = No!
Just put an 05 motor in my 03 after a lifter came apart at 273,000 miles. After I Did the initial scrape with wd40 and razor I used a sanding block and 800 grit sandpaper with wd40. Block came out perfectly clean, used UCF oringed heads and ford gaskets and arp studs. Install Johnson hylift direct shot lifter and new main seals. Runs like a champ now.
@@gmiles7217 truck runs better Than before . But I guess replacing tired injectors with 8 new ones from Ford along with a regulated return system will help in that department
@@gmiles7217 from all the research I did over months cleaning the deck surface with a quality 600 to 800 grit sandpaper on a long sanding block is the proper way to do it and the builder at UCF said that was the right grit range to use. Powerstrokehelp also showed this technique in a video but they didn’t say what grit to use. I also dabble in bodywork and I know 150 and 180 grit paper will gouge small scratches into the machined surface of the block that will act as an escape path for combustion gasses.
It seems to be informative. Did you check the deck for straightness? You should use a sanding block tool and confirm the deck is straight. And a straight edge.... just a thought especially since the head gaskets blew. As well as it wouldn't be a bad Idea to recommend using hardened seat heads. Since that is the most common crack found, and regardless of what Ford considers acceptable I would not use heads cracked from the glow plug hole either way. May cost more now but, in the long run could cost more. The other would be using O ringed heads new castings and hardened seats. Will save a lot of trouble. Pulling out the front is so nice. We do that since the cabs kinda suck even with a crane and jig. Other than that you seem to have a pretty good video to help some people out.
I was wonder why you like the ford powerstrokes so much I like the looks of them but people always say to stay away from them because there junk are the expensive to repair I work on all my gas engine the diesel don’t look hard to work on I was think about a 7.3 but I heard the 6.0 have a better transmission just wanting to hear why you like em thanks for the video
sorry for the long read... ford powerstrokes have had a bad rap in the light duty diesel world as they should, because they continuously have problems with their motors that competitors dont. however, its ford, and everyone associates ford with american (even though everything on the powerstroke is made in mexico) and their interiors and ride quality are far superior to ram and gm, like its not even close. because of this, powerstrokes and all the problems they have had are overlooked and people still demand them. they are and have been produced at a much higher rate than light duty cummins and duramax powered trucks, meaning the market is flooded with them and they are cheaper to purchase second hand. all diesels are expensive to work on, but there are a lot of people who have a budget and cant afford to spend 27k dollars on a 2005 cummins with 250k miles but can afford a 2005 powerstroke for 14k with 150k miles. because of this, many people who need a diesel for work or simply want one without breaking the bank turn to powerstrokes. so then it becomes what kind of motor. powerstroke motors were produced by navistar up until 2011, when the newest 6.7 liter powerstroke came out. 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 were all made by navistar and were all flawed in some way, which is why ford eventually dumped navistar and produced the 6.7 on their own. 7.3 have garbage transmissions, 6.0 tend to have bad oil and egr coolers and blow head gaskets, and 6.4 tend to have the entire long block grenade do to poorly designed parts by navistar. so for someone today, in 2020, looking at a used powerstroke who cant afford a 6.7, it usually comes down to between a 7.3 and a 6.0 (6.4s were such a basket case and a money pit that very few people consider them). the last 7.3s were produced 17 years ago in 2003... thats a long time ago. the motor has an amazing reputation for reliability, but they are just old and they ride very very rough. the 6.0 on the other hand is becoming a more and more popular option. it rides way smoother, is not as old, and produces way more power stock. because they had so many problems with the motor early on, the research and parts have been conducted and made to prevent these problems. a "bullet proof" 6.0 effectively eliminates the shortcomings of the motor (so long as you maintain it and dont abuse the motor) and makes it very reliable. add that to a relatively cheap market value, a generally solid transmission, ride quality, and a nice interior, and you can see why the 6.0 has become a popular option for people in the market for a diesel but who dont want to spend a fortune. sure people still love their 7.3s and it has earned the reputation, but as the years go on they become more and more primitive compared to newer stuff, people just have a tendency to avoid spending money on something so old. thats why the 6.0 is becoming a more popular choice
Wtf? 6.0 is great but maybe you don't understand that overheating is not the main cause of the 6.0 head gasket failures. It's the design of the engine. My 2006 6.0 just had a head gasket failure the other day and never got hot (hence why I'm here)
@@kobygrimes1234 The stock head gaskets and studs are fine, for a stock engine. What blows head gaskets and ruins heads and valves is over heating, over boosting, advancing timing due to tuning, and high EGT’s. I’m going on 18 years, and have never had a base engine, including turbo, fail. I don’t hot rod and abuse my truck. The later engines are good, if they are not pushed beyond their designed horsepower. The key is good maintenance, and not hot rodding the engine. BTW I tow a 9000 lb trailer up steep grades regularly. I monitor My EGTs, and back off at 100 degrees. If you think a 6 liter is bad, try a 6.4.
Hey man, you make some really good videos. I have a International Schoolbus 2006 4200 with a VT365. I struggled with HPO Leaks and just made the oil cooler, injectors(just dismanteling, cleaning and resealing), Stand Pipes, Dummy Plugs (the updatet of course), nipple cups with gaskets, oil cooler, HPOP resealing, connecter fitting is the updated already,, new oilpan gaskets (upper and lower). I found a inboard main bearing cap bolt broken. The head was just missing and i couldnt find it in the pan. So it has been like that a long time. I just had a hard time to find a right screw. I kind of made a workaround :). I found some metal debris in the oilpan and i can not identify what it could be. Maybe you can send me your email and i will send you the picture i made. Maybe you can identify it for me ? That would be very nice. Anyway. The engine is not starting without break clean. I will double check for more HPO leaks now. Also i will check low oil pressure, diesel pressure, bubble test, injector test and i will make a visual inspection of the valves and so on. When i start my engine now i hear a raddling noise or more a clicking noise on the driver side under the valve cover. I will check it again. When i try to start the engine it sounds like he is just about to make it... but without break clean fluid he is not coming up... its a pain in the ass. Your explanation helps a lot!
Any update on the HG's? I'm about to stud my 06 and I'm going with ARP studs and Felpro 18mm gaskets. I've heard several different opinions on how to prep the block and head surfaces for the new gaskets. Diesel Tech Ron seems to agree with your method of razor blading it gently, although I have heard questionable things about scotch padding it too hard. I'm thinking of using a stoning block or using a razor blade but using it more upright, if that makes sense.
Wondering why you went with fel pro head gasket?? I was always told use factory ford head gaskets which are bloody expensive and or moll. Great video though my man nice 💪
Not saying it will happen every time, but the stud being bottomed out won’t crack the block. The stud snaps. I have the scar on my elbow from the stitches to prove it😂. Nice video man. Well laid out for the novice and initiated.
What's all required to pull an engine out of a 6.0 powerstroke just bought a 05 6.0 and I'm needing to head stud it upon other work also how do you label your wire harness to know where everything goes as well as bolts
ive never pulled a block so i cant help much with that but you would have to remove the wiring harness and the grounding wires so you dont rip them upon removal, unbolt it from the transmission and fuel lines, and there are 8 nuts that hold the block to a cross beam on the frame that need to be removed before you lift it out. the wiring harness is formed to its position do to sitting in the same position for so long so when you put it back on the plugs will likely fall right back to their original place, it will be obvious where everything goes. the nuts and bolts are a challenge since there are so many. i suggest putting like nuts and bolts that go to the same component in a bag and label it so you know where everything goes. and also take pictures as some components have studs and bolts and theyre strategically placed
I'm curious, you take your motor out the front, instead of removing the cab. It's because you don't have a lift. But if you did, would you still take it out the front, or would you use the lift?
For a 03 that has already been bulletproof: rocker box has broken and stripped bolt for value cover, BUT the big concern is the ear was broke off and they wb welded it. So of course new rocker boxes will be needed. THE QUESTION, do I have to redo the head gaskets and studs (bulletproof) just to replace rocker boxes?
I like to pull the engine for 3 reasons. 1. I don’t have a hoist to pull the cab... 2. Pulling the engine allows me to verify everything is clean, holes are clean, and the head gets set down perfectly.... 3. I get to reseal anything that was leaking like the oil pan/upper oil pan/bed plate etc. Overall the only extra work is disconnecting the transmission and undoing the motor mounts. But the benefits of having it removed completely outweigh that little bit of extra work. 💪
How much was taken off of the heads? How much shorter are the 6.4 push rods? So how do I know when to ask for the 6.4 push rods? With in a year I hope to have a shop to build up my 6.0 to prove that it can be done.
I think it's really cute how you do this I can definitely tell you don't rebuild engines much I have been building engines for 20 years and never seen shit like this
How far are you from Monroe Mi. I got some 18mm dowl heads from DK Performance slightly used about 35,000 miles on them. I had stock injectors and turbo on it.
I’ve got a stock 2006 f250 6.0 that needs head gaskets. I plan to stud it, regulated return, Left Lane up pipes (of course) and upgrade the heads themselves. Is there any upgrades that you would recommend while the engine is apart (lifters, pushrods, etc…)?
I meant “block” but works on heads too. But those you should just get milled and magnafluxed. Block can be checked with a straight edge and feeler gauge
Scothbrite 18730 bristle disc is what you NEED to be using on those heads.. not by hand. You’ll never get that carbon build up off. And make sure you get that oil out of the head bolt holes or you will make a hydraulic lock in the bottom of that hole and when you torque the studs the oil has no where to go (think of a hydraulic piston) and you WILL crack a block..
6.4 pushrods being slightly shorter was fords solution, as it removed stress. Still the lifters are tasked to moving 2 valves per lifter. So what’s created is high stress and poor lifter design which creates poor lubrication. I’ve not personally seen one come apart. Anytime I stud a truck over 200k miles, it gets new lifters.
Hey man great video. Now as you were saying how Ford updated to the 6.4 pushrods, if the head was never machined would there be an issue just being a little shorter?
Noo you want like an 1/16 of an in of space if you run any chance of bottoming them out they wont work properly as well as the instructions state only finger tight
*RACE TRUCK BUILD* Engine Removal! Ep.14 ua-cam.com/video/A8MYSDmD7sY/v-deo.html This video is not extremely detailed but gives you the run down on what’s involved.
Here is my question… seeing how long the bolts are it seems absolutely impossible to do an ARP stud installation with the motor in the block . So I’m assuming the service can only be performed with the motor pulled. Is my assumption correct?
It can be done cab on, many people do it that way. The heater box has to be removed on the pass side and I believe the motor mount on the driver side has to be removed. But it’s very doable
@@LeftLaneDiesels this is great knowledge thank you, I bidding think it would clear placing the studs how you did I’m the block then gasket an then the head in cab but man that’s wild thank you sir for replying
Hey I've got a few questions I saw in 1 of your other videos you have a one piece Turbo down and up pipe do you sell those if so how do I go about buying them I've took the 6.0 out of my F350 we straight edged the motor block it has a .004 gap in between the 2 center cylinders right where the gaskets lay I'm gonna have my block decked and I've had my heads resurfaced will I need shorter piston rods an push rods
No good way to do it, just be mindful of it. Vacuum before you set the heads on and always do a good coolant flush once it’s running and you will be set!
@@LeftLaneDiesels Really? Why would machining still be required if the head is good and never warped/overheated? I'm new to this and trying to understand.
Jason Kuhn you want to be 100% sure that the head is flat and has no cracks. A head could crack just by removing the head bolts. That’s why when removing you generally want to do it in the reverse procedure of torquing. Also this only costs 300-400$ so it’s cheap insurance.
i would stick with oem or bullet proof diesel if you live in a warm environment. oem oil coolers are unlikely to fail with red elc coolant, and bpd may have trouble warming up in a cold environment do to being external. theyre also way more expensive so its probably best to stick with motorcraft oem
Do go back through 24hrs later to recheck Torque on the studs? I have done a few and found out the torque numbers are below 210 so I have to recheck all. Just wondering if you have found the same issue.
Some later model 6.0s (like my 2007) have the shortened 6.4 updated pushrods , their slightly shorter, if you have them out measure them , the numbers can be found on Google
@@LeftLaneDiesels All stock set up. Pulling a 24' camper, and 12ft trailer, responsible owner. Possible tune in the future. I feel like the oring option is overkill. I've done injectors and Turbo and in the process of doing EVERTHING else. I noticed in the video you did NOT have oring heads. Just wondering what your thoughts were on the subject. Thanks for such an expeditious response, fully didn't expect one! Honestly thinking out loud. You are Awesome!
@@MrSir-qq7wi not needed for your application in my opinion. I usually recommend o-ringed heads when guys are running hotter tunes with larger injectors and turbo. The engine in the video went in my personal towing vehicle. Stock other than my one piece up-pipes I offer, all the ford updates, and an exhaust, with a tow tune, does great!
@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you sir you have put my mind at ease. Starting to feel like the research is harder than the job itself. I am very thankful for guys like you who put your valuable knowledge out there, to help people who value doing it themselves! You are a gentleman and a mechanical scholar.
Can I ask you a question. When pulling the motor I think people use the turbo pedestal bolts to pull it. Is this a good idea or is there something better?
@@LeftLaneDiesels thanks. I really enjoy your videos and have learned much valuable information from you. I'm working on mine now. Motor should be out tomorrow!
We did get my motor out yesterday. I plan to make a video today before I start dismantling it to start the upgrades and tell what was wrong with it. I hope you watch it after I post it
Very knowledgeable guy being this young, good job man.
I never knew how satisfying it would be to see such a great machine come together. any words to an accidental first time owner would be greatly accepted. Seriously Bravo, thank you for sharing
Still a trash motor
@@adancontrerasjr1355 not really
@@adancontrerasjr1355 lol say you’re uneducated about 6 liters without saying you’re uneducated
I followed the same procedure on my truck when I did HGs and I had no issues. I followed this video step by step and had great results.
Damn every time I watch one of you videos I want to refresh my 6.0 but it’s hard to buy parts when nothing’s broken.
But the problem is when it breaks it’s totally done your truck is gone so it’s sad you have to pick and chose man I’d still put money away in savings if you do want to keep your loyalty to the 6.0
@@HappyTimes024 That is such crap!
@@HappyTimes024 that's not true. If you update egr cooler and update oil cooler. Than add a coolant filter kit. You are good to go. Main key is keeping up on oil changes using a 5-40 synthetic oil. It will go 500k
@@lonniefreeman4278 What brand egr and oil cooler to upgrade?
@@MarcoRodriguez-lr2xt sorry for late reply. I went with bullet proof diesel egr cooler and the motorcraft updated/improved oil cooler. Clean oil and clean coolant is key for 6.0.
Very good job . America needs way more guys like you. God bless !
Another great informative content video! Being mindful of what you are doing, cleaning up everything & taking the time to do it right the first time so you don’t have to go back in after something goes wrong!
Thanks for all you do making your videos! Very good informative content.
Considering purchasing a 6.0 with 350K on it. Not for work purposes. Just a nice truck. This is my first video I’ve watched and I have learned quite a bit from you. Thank you!
Man, your explanation is so good, I could never do this myself, but I sure will ask them how they go about doing it if I ever need one. Great video. Thank you.
Fell pros have a nice embossed O ring around the combustion chambers too. You can feel it crush/compress during the torque sequence. I think it really helps seal the cylinders up. These trucks need all the help they can get with 4 head bolts..
Great video, very informative for someone like me who has a 6.0 and is trying to learn, thanks
You know I'm, buying one of these (05 dually). So I'm watching a ton of vids. There are many guys who make vids and have no idea what they are talking about. Making a long ass vid talking about someone else doing the work, but trying to talk the talk. I like watching the vids when the mechanic is talking about the work and doing the work. Thanks man! This helps me out a lot.
6.0 is a junk engine. It only has 4 studs per cylinder unlike the duramax, cummins and the 7.3, 6.4 and 6.7 all have 6 studs per cylinder. 4 studs was a dumbass design right from the get go! Worst engine ever!
@@ChrisSmith-ig9jq the 6.4 also has 4 bolts per cylinder by the way
I've put 47k on my 03. Best truck I've ever owned. Pulls 22k all day. Moved me from NorCal to Arizona. 7 trips hauling 20k each time. No problem. That's 14k miles. Just replaced injectors and hpop. Lifetime warranty on the hpop and 3 year warranty on injectors from O'Riley. Runs like a dream.
Very informational, I just picked up my 04 6.0L from machine shop. I'm building it as a stage 2 motor.
Been using razors to flat sand blocks for years now, I will never use a die grinder again. They don’t need to be shiny, they need to be flat. Definitely engines with liners, it’s critical not to cut material away that you can’t get back. After that its good to check it with a straight edge for deck flatness to make certain you have no low spots 👍🏽 great vid bud.
Very knowledgeable young man.
Grar job thanks for sharing just had my 03 F350 104k miles head studded, eger delete new oil cooler,coolant by pass hoses & Garrett turbo done this week.
What did it cost you?
You should always run a tap or thread chaser into the head bolt holes to clean them before installing studs or bolts. Also, while heads are removed, replace the lifters. They are prone to failure.
To replace the lifters on a 6.0 you have to basically take whole engine apart
@@lonniefreeman4278 Yes, they are a weak point. The cam needs to be checked for worn lobes also. Poor design, that you can’t get to the lifters from the top end. A 40 dollar part, that is prone to failing, can trash the whole engine.
Sometimes machine shops say there cracked because of a tiny little crack on the heads. It’s normal as long as it ain’t going from one end to another
I like the videos and I don't normally comment but I noticed that you do the headstuds the same way I was doing them until I watched a video from Wade at thoroughbred diesel where he has a guest speaker Mike Cunningham from ARP showing how it's done. I highly recommend you and the viewers watch it. Love the videos keep them coming.
Dude, you need to use OEM ...cause Diesel Teck Ron says so...RIP DT Ron.
Acetone works really well for getting all the junk off of the surfaces I want clean and polished
Yeah that won’t work.
Magnaflux the heads? Was told all stock heads crack, and only need replaced if you can see a crack from edge to edge
Well atleast u didn’t run into what I found on a recent 6.0 truck I found someone took a flap wheel on a grinder to heads and block surface
Sometimes it makes you wonder why someone would do s#$t like that!!!
Not a 6.0, but we have a 6.7 (Cummins) in the shop right now that JUST had the head gasket done, and it’s blown on cylinder 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 because someone was too aggressive trying to clean the block surface up. Idiots + engines = No!
Theeee ol whiz-wheel 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️😜🤣🤣
12” board sander and 80 grit paper, give it hell! The surface porosity give the proper RH finish to really grab the gasket
If you don't have blown head gaskets just pull each bolt individually and put studs back in, works awesome and no cab removal.
No
Just put an 05 motor in my 03 after a lifter came apart at 273,000 miles. After I Did the initial scrape with wd40 and razor I used a sanding block and 800 grit sandpaper with wd40. Block came out perfectly clean, used UCF oringed heads and ford gaskets and arp studs. Install Johnson hylift direct shot lifter and new main seals. Runs like a champ now.
Any issues so far?
@@gmiles7217 truck runs better
Than before . But I guess replacing tired injectors with 8 new ones from Ford along with a regulated return system will help in that department
Good for you! I just watched a video of a guy who sanded the block with 150 and 180 for a while.
ua-cam.com/video/HoTEmUv3IAs/v-deo.html
@@gmiles7217 from all the research I did over months cleaning the deck surface with a quality 600 to 800 grit sandpaper on a long sanding block is the proper way to do it and the builder at UCF said that was the right grit range to use. Powerstrokehelp also showed this technique in a video but they didn’t say what grit to use. I also dabble in bodywork and I know 150 and 180 grit paper will gouge small scratches into the machined surface of the block that will act as an escape path for combustion gasses.
It seems to be informative. Did you check the deck for straightness? You should use a sanding block tool and confirm the deck is straight. And a straight edge.... just a thought especially since the head gaskets blew. As well as it wouldn't be a bad Idea to recommend using hardened seat heads. Since that is the most common crack found, and regardless of what Ford considers acceptable I would not use heads cracked from the glow plug hole either way. May cost more now but, in the long run could cost more. The other would be using O ringed heads new castings and hardened seats. Will save a lot of trouble. Pulling out the front is so nice. We do that since the cabs kinda suck even with a crane and jig. Other than that you seem to have a pretty good video to help some people out.
I wouldn’t hit it with a sanding block tool unless you want a total mess on the deck surface.
Fel-pro all the way great gasket
Good video thanks for sharing. Did you pull that motor out Without removing the cab?
It can be done
I was wonder why you like the ford powerstrokes so much I like the looks of them but people always say to stay away from them because there junk are the expensive to repair I work on all my gas engine the diesel don’t look hard to work on I was think about a 7.3 but I heard the 6.0 have a better transmission just wanting to hear why you like em thanks for the video
sorry for the long read... ford powerstrokes have had a bad rap in the light duty diesel world as they should, because they continuously have problems with their motors that competitors dont. however, its ford, and everyone associates ford with american (even though everything on the powerstroke is made in mexico) and their interiors and ride quality are far superior to ram and gm, like its not even close. because of this, powerstrokes and all the problems they have had are overlooked and people still demand them. they are and have been produced at a much higher rate than light duty cummins and duramax powered trucks, meaning the market is flooded with them and they are cheaper to purchase second hand. all diesels are expensive to work on, but there are a lot of people who have a budget and cant afford to spend 27k dollars on a 2005 cummins with 250k miles but can afford a 2005 powerstroke for 14k with 150k miles. because of this, many people who need a diesel for work or simply want one without breaking the bank turn to powerstrokes. so then it becomes what kind of motor. powerstroke motors were produced by navistar up until 2011, when the newest 6.7 liter powerstroke came out. 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 were all made by navistar and were all flawed in some way, which is why ford eventually dumped navistar and produced the 6.7 on their own. 7.3 have garbage transmissions, 6.0 tend to have bad oil and egr coolers and blow head gaskets, and 6.4 tend to have the entire long block grenade do to poorly designed parts by navistar. so for someone today, in 2020, looking at a used powerstroke who cant afford a 6.7, it usually comes down to between a 7.3 and a 6.0 (6.4s were such a basket case and a money pit that very few people consider them). the last 7.3s were produced 17 years ago in 2003... thats a long time ago. the motor has an amazing reputation for reliability, but they are just old and they ride very very rough. the 6.0 on the other hand is becoming a more and more popular option. it rides way smoother, is not as old, and produces way more power stock. because they had so many problems with the motor early on, the research and parts have been conducted and made to prevent these problems. a "bullet proof" 6.0 effectively eliminates the shortcomings of the motor (so long as you maintain it and dont abuse the motor) and makes it very reliable. add that to a relatively cheap market value, a generally solid transmission, ride quality, and a nice interior, and you can see why the 6.0 has become a popular option for people in the market for a diesel but who dont want to spend a fortune. sure people still love their 7.3s and it has earned the reputation, but as the years go on they become more and more primitive compared to newer stuff, people just have a tendency to avoid spending money on something so old. thats why the 6.0 is becoming a more popular choice
@@natewilson7664 thanks for the reply
Nate Wilson excellent reply mate. Cheers from australia
Keep the engine from overheating and you'll never blow a head gasket. The 6 liter is an awesome engine.
Wtf? 6.0 is great but maybe you don't understand that overheating is not the main cause of the 6.0 head gasket failures. It's the design of the engine. My 2006 6.0 just had a head gasket failure the other day and never got hot (hence why I'm here)
lol bro its bc theirs only 4 studs to a cylinder. not enough clamp pressure. buddy
@@kobygrimes1234 The stock head gaskets and studs are fine, for a stock engine. What blows head gaskets and ruins heads and valves is over heating, over boosting, advancing timing due to tuning, and high EGT’s. I’m going on 18 years, and have never had a base engine, including turbo, fail. I don’t hot rod and abuse my truck. The later engines are good, if they are not pushed beyond their designed horsepower. The key is good maintenance, and not hot rodding the engine. BTW I tow a 9000 lb trailer up steep grades regularly. I monitor My EGTs, and back off at 100 degrees. If you think a 6 liter is bad, try a 6.4.
Hey man, you make some really good videos. I have a International Schoolbus 2006 4200 with a VT365. I struggled with HPO Leaks and just made the oil cooler, injectors(just dismanteling, cleaning and resealing), Stand Pipes, Dummy Plugs (the updatet of course), nipple cups with gaskets, oil cooler, HPOP resealing, connecter fitting is the updated already,, new oilpan gaskets (upper and lower). I found a inboard main bearing cap bolt broken. The head was just missing and i couldnt find it in the pan. So it has been like that a long time. I just had a hard time to find a right screw. I kind of made a workaround :).
I found some metal debris in the oilpan and i can not identify what it could be. Maybe you can send me your email and i will send you the picture i made. Maybe you can identify it for me ? That would be very nice.
Anyway. The engine is not starting without break clean. I will double check for more HPO leaks now. Also i will check low oil pressure, diesel pressure, bubble test, injector test and i will make a visual inspection of the valves and so on. When i start my engine now i hear a raddling noise or more a clicking noise on the driver side under the valve cover. I will check it again.
When i try to start the engine it sounds like he is just about to make it... but without break clean fluid he is not coming up... its a pain in the ass.
Your explanation helps a lot!
Awesome job. Next time you clean a block check out the super scraper
Johnner26 .0 powerstroke my new favorite method lol
Is it the exact same for the o ringed heads??
Make a video of how to pull a 6.0 engine out
Any update on the HG's? I'm about to stud my 06 and I'm going with ARP studs and Felpro 18mm gaskets. I've heard several different opinions on how to prep the block and head surfaces for the new gaskets. Diesel Tech Ron seems to agree with your method of razor blading it gently, although I have heard questionable things about scotch padding it too hard. I'm thinking of using a stoning block or using a razor blade but using it more upright, if that makes sense.
Wondering why you went with fel pro head gasket?? I was always told use factory ford head gaskets which are bloody expensive and or moll. Great video though my man nice 💪
Not saying it will happen every time, but the stud being bottomed out won’t crack the block. The stud snaps. I have the scar on my elbow from the stitches to prove it😂. Nice video man. Well laid out for the novice and initiated.
You’ll get that staining off with a bristle disc.. green.. not yellow or white.
Just watched your video and I subscribed, great content....
Very informative video...thx. 6.0 👊❤
In no way are fel-pro head gaskets better than fords!
Agree to disagree, have you ever used felpro? Cause if you basing your opinion without trying felpro then your opinion is biased.
What's all required to pull an engine out of a 6.0 powerstroke just bought a 05 6.0 and I'm needing to head stud it upon other work also how do you label your wire harness to know where everything goes as well as bolts
ive never pulled a block so i cant help much with that but you would have to remove the wiring harness and the grounding wires so you dont rip them upon removal, unbolt it from the transmission and fuel lines, and there are 8 nuts that hold the block to a cross beam on the frame that need to be removed before you lift it out. the wiring harness is formed to its position do to sitting in the same position for so long so when you put it back on the plugs will likely fall right back to their original place, it will be obvious where everything goes. the nuts and bolts are a challenge since there are so many. i suggest putting like nuts and bolts that go to the same component in a bag and label it so you know where everything goes. and also take pictures as some components have studs and bolts and theyre strategically placed
Block is cast iron using a die grinder with a blue or green pad isn't gonna hurt it.
I'm curious, you take your motor out the front, instead of removing the cab. It's because you don't have a lift. But if you did, would you still take it out the front, or would you use the lift?
For a 03 that has already been bulletproof: rocker box has broken and stripped bolt for value cover, BUT the big concern is the ear was broke off and they wb welded it. So of course new rocker boxes will be needed. THE QUESTION, do I have to redo the head gaskets and studs (bulletproof) just to replace rocker boxes?
Is it easier for you to pull the engine out to do head gasket vs doing it in the cab by removing hvac box or pulling a motor mount
I like to pull the engine for 3 reasons. 1. I don’t have a hoist to pull the cab... 2. Pulling the engine allows me to verify everything is clean, holes are clean, and the head gets set down perfectly.... 3. I get to reseal anything that was leaking like the oil pan/upper oil pan/bed plate etc.
Overall the only extra work is disconnecting the transmission and undoing the motor mounts. But the benefits of having it removed completely outweigh that little bit of extra work. 💪
What about the bottom end ? Bed plate seal and front and rear main seal?
Good info. Wish you would use a camera that didn't need to be held in your hand.
How much was taken off of the heads? How much shorter are the 6.4 push rods? So how do I know when to ask for the 6.4 push rods? With in a year I hope to have a shop to build up my 6.0 to prove that it can be done.
How did the job hold up? How many miles since? Any problems? Did you reseal the HPO system seals Owings etc?
Hi , always -a great video- I purchased fel pro head gasket but got my heads oringed, is it still a good ideal to use the fel- pro gaskets.
I think it's really cute how you do this I can definitely tell you don't rebuild engines much I have been building engines for 20 years and never seen shit like this
Love your style
Why not put high flow heads on instead of OEM?
How far are you from Monroe Mi. I got some 18mm dowl heads from DK Performance slightly used about 35,000 miles on them. I had stock injectors and turbo on it.
I’ve got a stock 2006 f250 6.0 that needs head gaskets. I plan to stud it, regulated return, Left Lane up pipes (of course) and upgrade the heads themselves. Is there any upgrades that you would recommend while the engine is apart (lifters, pushrods, etc…)?
I meant “block” but works on heads too. But those you should just get milled and magnafluxed. Block can be checked with a straight edge and feeler gauge
If I buy all the parts will you come and do my head gaskets? I’m in Texas🤷♂️
Good video thank you for sharing
Ahhhh one of the most hated engines in the industry. I love it😉
Did you chase the threads in the block before installing the studs?
Awesome video just got my first 6.0 was wondering if there is a way you can tell if the truck has already been studded already without tearing it down
Yes there is! Look on the drivers side to see if there's a bolt head or a stud (hex center) its pretty easy to see
So it is way easier to pull the engine as opposed to the cab?
Good video great info keep up
Great job guy!
Just knocking all that stull in the oil journals and water journals
Scothbrite 18730 bristle disc is what you NEED to be using on those heads.. not by hand. You’ll never get that carbon build up off. And make sure you get that oil out of the head bolt holes or you will make a hydraulic lock in the bottom of that hole and when you torque the studs the oil has no where to go (think of a hydraulic piston) and you WILL crack a block..
Size 50? Or size 80? I used 400 grit but it's not doing anything.
Any solution to 6.0 roller lifter failure????? Great video
6.4 pushrods being slightly shorter was fords solution, as it removed stress. Still the lifters are tasked to moving 2 valves per lifter. So what’s created is high stress and poor lifter design which creates poor lubrication. I’ve not personally seen one come apart. Anytime I stud a truck over 200k miles, it gets new lifters.
@@LeftLaneDiesels At 195000 miles, do you worry about replacing lifters? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@@leemarchant7191 I would replace them
@@LeftLaneDiesels I was afraid of that haha
Where is your location bro? I want to do on my 03 Excursion 6.0l.
Thank you.
Hey man great video. Now as you were saying how Ford updated to the 6.4 pushrods, if the head was never machined would there be an issue just being a little shorter?
No problem at all! Update the pushrods whether the heads were machined or not. Keeps the lifters alive
@@LeftLaneDiesels awesome thanks man!
Nice job. Did the original head crack because of the head bolts or do they just crack?
They just crack, fairly common unfortunately
@@LeftLaneDiesels that sucks... I was hope the head studs helped. Was looking at buying a ford with a 6.0
I wish you work in my 6.0 man
Noo you want like an 1/16 of an in of space if you run any chance of bottoming them out they wont work properly as well as the instructions state only finger tight
Do you have A video on how to remove the engine and all that involves from start to finish?
Second this ^
Third this ^^
*RACE TRUCK BUILD* Engine Removal! Ep.14 ua-cam.com/video/A8MYSDmD7sY/v-deo.html
This video is not extremely detailed but gives you the run down on what’s involved.
4th this
I started to use a wire brush on one side...is there a way to reverse this process? Also, do you not clean the piston tops of carbon build up?
I honestly would get it checked by a shop to see if it will create a seal
Does the 6.0 need to be TDC for this fix? Thank you
Great video ! Where are you located ?
If use toluene to soak surface it will wipe off .
Do you work on customer trucks? Thank you
Here is my question… seeing how long the bolts are it seems absolutely impossible to do an ARP stud installation with the motor in the block . So I’m assuming the service can only be performed with the motor pulled. Is my assumption correct?
It can be done cab on, many people do it that way. The heater box has to be removed on the pass side and I believe the motor mount on the driver side has to be removed. But it’s very doable
@@LeftLaneDiesels this is great knowledge thank you, I bidding think it would clear placing the studs how you did I’m the block then gasket an then the head in cab but man that’s wild thank you sir for replying
hey how are the felpro head gaskets holding up?? do u think engine removal is ideal for this project?
i would say cab removal is most effective... but thats a little difficult without a lift lol
How many miles are on the truck?
Hey I've got a few questions I saw in 1 of your other videos you have a one piece Turbo down and up pipe do you sell those if so how do I go about buying them I've took the 6.0 out of my F350 we straight edged the motor block it has a .004 gap in between the 2 center cylinders right where the gaskets lay I'm gonna have my block decked and I've had my heads resurfaced will I need shorter piston rods an push rods
could you put something to block the coolant ports little bit while cleaning? sorry if thats a stupid ? be good to know when i try and tackle mine
No good way to do it, just be mindful of it. Vacuum before you set the heads on and always do a good coolant flush once it’s running and you will be set!
@@LeftLaneDiesels yessir will do! good stuff man keep up with the trucks and the videos.. some good 6.0 content
Your like 👍 and a new subscriber
How much does the kit cost?
Where are you from I am interested in getting my 6.0 studded and deleted
How much foot pounds torque the last one
Where are you out of? I’m over by athens Michigan
How much do you charge for that job
where do you get all of your torque specs from?
What does a job like this cost including parts and labor? What would it cost if it was done as a preventative thing (no machining needed).
Jason Kuhn machining is required regardless. Generally around 5k if turbo, heads and injectors are good
@@LeftLaneDiesels Really? Why would machining still be required if the head is good and never warped/overheated? I'm new to this and trying to understand.
Jason Kuhn you want to be 100% sure that the head is flat and has no cracks. A head could crack just by removing the head bolts. That’s why when removing you generally want to do it in the reverse procedure of torquing. Also this only costs 300-400$ so it’s cheap insurance.
@@ridiculous7935 if you ever have the heads off any motor you want to get them looked at.
Why wouldn't you oring the heads?
How much you charge for that job
General question, Do you think the Mishimoto oil cooler is a good brand.
Can’t say as thou I have much experience with them. But I can say that I trust oem.
i would stick with oem or bullet proof diesel if you live in a warm environment. oem oil coolers are unlikely to fail with red elc coolant, and bpd may have trouble warming up in a cold environment do to being external. theyre also way more expensive so its probably best to stick with motorcraft oem
Thank you. Appreciate the knowledge
Was there any pitting?
Do go back through 24hrs later to recheck Torque on the studs? I have done a few and found out the torque numbers are below 210 so I have to recheck all. Just wondering if you have found the same issue.
Do I need the 6.4 pushrods if I get brand new KDD o ringed heads? Or just a stick with my stock 6 liter push rods?
Some later model 6.0s (like my 2007) have the shortened 6.4 updated pushrods , their slightly shorter, if you have them out measure them , the numbers can be found on Google
I am unsure if I should O ring my 6.0 heads, is it really necessary?
What do you use the truck for and what’s your fuel/air set up?
@@LeftLaneDiesels All stock set up. Pulling a 24' camper, and 12ft trailer, responsible owner. Possible tune in the future. I feel like the oring option is overkill. I've done injectors and Turbo and in the process of doing EVERTHING else. I noticed in the video you did NOT have oring heads. Just wondering what your thoughts were on the subject. Thanks for such an expeditious response, fully didn't expect one! Honestly thinking out loud. You are Awesome!
@@MrSir-qq7wi not needed for your application in my opinion. I usually recommend o-ringed heads when guys are running hotter tunes with larger injectors and turbo. The engine in the video went in my personal towing vehicle. Stock other than my one piece up-pipes I offer, all the ford updates, and an exhaust, with a tow tune, does great!
@@LeftLaneDiesels Thank you sir you have put my mind at ease. Starting to feel like the research is harder than the job itself. I am very thankful for guys like you who put your valuable knowledge out there, to help people who value doing it themselves! You are a gentleman and a mechanical scholar.
Can I ask you a question. When pulling the motor I think people use the turbo pedestal bolts to pull it. Is this a good idea or is there something better?
I made a bracket and used the 4 turbo pedestal bolts to bolt my lift bracket down
@@LeftLaneDiesels thanks. I really enjoy your videos and have learned much valuable information from you. I'm working on mine now. Motor should be out tomorrow!
We did get my motor out yesterday. I plan to make a video today before I start dismantling it to start the upgrades and tell what was wrong with it. I hope you watch it after I post it