My 2007 has 550k miles on it. Oil changes every 4k fuel filters every 8k coolant flushes every 30k. Truck has never had any issues beside one water pump at 150k and one glow plug went bad at 350k I do t think I would buy a used one tho unless it was highly documented or a one owner with super low mileage. To many Guys doing 10-15k oil changes and 45-50k on fuel filters and not keeping the coolant proper or running hot tunes in them no thanks
Add a fuel pressure gauge so if the pressure drops below 45 psi you want to shut it down. They will run with less than 45 psi but it will destroy the injectors. I watch the EGT and water and oil temps all the time. I change the oil every 4000 miles. But the best thing for engines is too work them. They are not meant for hauling groceries. It you work them and keep the veins in the turbo moving. You will have a lot less trouble in the long run.
05 Excursion 6.0 not studded pretty much stock had since new awesome truck. 252,000 miles at 100,000 oil cooler went out. Had 1 injector replaced. Lots of glow plugs. Still have egr use to have to clean pretty often. Removed butterfly in air intake seems to run cleaner doesn't plug egr valve and run hot shot additive Yes get an Edge reader to monitor engine. Live in Wisconsin never heard the cooling fan run, come to find the cooling fan chord was cut by cooling fan. So glad we had the reader because we had a road trip out west in July, that could have been bad. Have rust in rockers but not bad. I'm no mechanic but UA-cam and the helpful 6.0 community has saved me thousands.
Some additional suggestions when purchasing: Check for matching batteries, if one battery failed then both need to be changed. Use high quality and high CCA battries - the electrical system on these engines are key to long life. The AC pumps on these older trucks fail and plug the condenser, orifice, and sometimes the evaporator - check it. Check your oil for coolant - it is another sign of head gasket problems. Check for Crankcase pressure (blowback) - indication of bad rings and cracked pistons. Listen to the cadence when turning key on - indication of bad injectors. There are often vacuum issues with these older trucks (older plastic lines crack and leak) - check that the cabin air actuator works (if stuck on defrost you likely have a vacuum leak). Listen to the vacuum pump when you first key on - it should run but not for a long time. High mileage - check the drive train (drive shaft and axial universals). Last suggestion - rent a high quality diagnostic computer and check the codes and performance on the ICP, ICR, EGP, EOT, ECT, VGT, IAT(1&2), and injection balance (if the computer can do it). I love this engine, but it has a lot of small things that can lead to big problems. If you want a long life engine, you have to monitor what is going on with live values, so get a monitor.
Your old Android phone (you already paid for it, might as well get more use out of it), 4.95 for Torque Pro, an inexpensive ELM327 BT obd2 adapter and 20 mins watching DieselTechRon's (RIP) Torque Pro set up video and you will be able to monitor 95% of what you need to keep your truck reliable and catch problems early (like your EOT/ECT deltas). An EGT gauge if you do a lot of towing is about the only other thing you might want.
If your headgasket goes bad, O-Ring the heads, put Ford OEM headgaskets, and ARP headstuds on it. Also, put new lifters, 6.4 pushrods, rocker box gaskets, rear main seal, injector cups, new oil pan gasket, and instead of deleting the egr cooler, weld some soft plugs in the two ends of it to block flow, while still being in factory location, and supporting your down pipe...also replace the oil cooler with a new OEM unit on it while its all apart. And you will have a good motor for a long time..... want to take it a step further? Go with an oem oil cooler delete kit from bulletproof diesel or other sources to get rid of the possibility of clogged oil coolers, and have the larger oil to air cooler instead.
@@chartedtravel must have had bad luck with the 6.0 motors? Personally my 2 6.0s I’ve had were/are some of the best running engines I’ve ever had. And I own a couple 7.3s and have had 2 of the ford 6.7s.
The buyers reviews of Ford vs Dodge: Ford-interior, don’t worry, body, don’t worry, trans don’t worry, engine, worry Dodge-interior, if it has an interior at all you are lucky, exterior, door skins ripping, rust everywhere, dually skirts cracking, grills junk, mirrors junk, trans, NV or forget about it, engine, don’t worry about it 😂
"WRONG" , it is NOT the bolt configuration for the heads , it "ALL" starts with their cheapy design of an oil cooler which right in the heart of the engine. This causes the oil AND TEMPERATURE WATER FROM THE RADIATOR TO MIX BECAUSE OF THEIR FAILURE. So you need to replace that oil cooler, and YES, the BPD oil cooler system out from is the best so far. This will keep your oil cool, this will keep your EGR from failing, "AND" this will save your heads from over pressure. If you follow each failure as to why it failed, it ALL comes down to the oil cooler in the heart of the engine. It is a radiator type, with very thin walls separating the oil and radiator water apart. The Idiots used the water from the radiator to "COOL" your oil. everything on that truck runs off your "oil Pressure" which is why it is very important to maintain the oil cool and as clean as possible. Trying to cool all that oil and trying to run cool, the water pump goes out. So you need several upgrades. Water pump kit, oil pump high pressure valve, stand pipes (for your injectors), AND the Oil cooler 9doing away with what they have and installing an external cooler). "YES" BPD had what I needed, but I still think they were over priced. Close to 4 K doing it ALL myself. If you are in PHX, I will help you with what you need to do. If you research the head problem and bolts, YES they are also a cheap design, BUT fail because of high pressure under there caused by either a failed EGR, or oil cooler. "ALL" comes down to that "OIL COOLER" God Bless !!
I had a 2004 6.0 with 325,000 when a I wiped it out on black ice in NC. At 200,000 I replaced the injection. It moved campers from the east coast to west coast. O and I mean 0 problem my camper weight in a 14k. So all this is bull shit.
Sounds like stay away from the 6.0 unless you like fixing the engine and you have deep pockets. How could a company like Ford release a motor like this? What great engineering. Lol this truck will keep people that work in them rich and pushing them.
500,000 miles on my 07’ 6.0. Engine never rebuilt. Doors still open and close nicely. Honestly it still rides like a new truck. These 99-07 trucks were the toughest trucks ever made. Regular maintenance and never raced or beat on; just used for work. Just get rid of the EGR bullshit and don’t slap a tuner on it.
Couldnt agree more. My 7.3 Excursion is still bone stock and will tow whatever you put behind it as long as you dont need to get there fast. But, my 05 F250 is 10 steps above. Both have right at or over 300,000 miles on them. Rotella changed every 5,000. Fuel filters every 10,000. The most major thing i have had to do to either are a, transmission in my Excursion and, glow plugs in my 6.0. For everyday driving. 6.0 is the best i have owned.
Patrickw Perry yeah I’m still daily driving my 6.0. I put on about only 500 miles a week now. I do 7,500 mile oil changes with the Amsoil HD Diesel & Marine 15W-40. I’ve had the oil analyzed at 500,000 miles and I was told the oil could be stretched further and the engine had a lot of life left in it (below average for wear metals). I did the glow plugs and harness about two years ago. I also had the FICM rebuilt and upgraded the alternator to a 230 amp unit with heavier gauge cables to the batteries. Ford really undersized the alternator on these trucks. The glow plugs really draw a lot of amps at start up. It’s a totally new truck in the winter months with the new set up I have. Starts and idles a lot better in freezing temps. My next truck will probably be a 7.3 gas. I think the gas trucks are now more reliable then the 2008+ diesel trucks. It’s totally reversed.
Yes it can be very expensive but I work on my own stuff so I save a bunch there. Easy $100 just to change the oil, but I use full synthetic and change it once a year.
You want a reliable 6.0 powerstroke? Buy it from an older man or a working man that used the 6.0 for work amd not for racing. I have seen plenty of 6:0 powerstrokes with well over 400k miles with minor upgrades on stock head bolts. Change your oil every 3500 miles man. Seriously these engines shear oil fast. Proper maintenance folks. I have a 2003 6:0 powerstroke with subtle uogrades no head studs just bolts. 260k miles with factory turbo head gaskets bolts etc.
I was Ford certified on the 6 leiptr in the years that I worked on I'm the biggest problem that motor had was the customer driving it follow your Ford maintenance plan at scheduled intervals do everything it tells you to do the six leader left the factory turned up as high in pork and horsepower as was possible for the expected life of the motor punching the power level up larger turbos bigger injectors all bad news for reliability do not extend the oil change intervals I don't care what oil you put in it can't tell you how many times I've seen Apple cord filters because of customers extending it because the oil manufacturer says you can keep a clean filter in it same with fuel filters keep clean filters in it don't extend the filter life cheap coolant is another no no put good coolant in it every 30000 miles do not allow the truck to Extended idle to warm up do not allow the truck to idle while you go in and have lunch these are two of the biggest cause of your intake manifold coking which is the major cause of EGR valves sticking and not operating properly I owned one of these trucks and drove it for more than 12 years and had no problems with anything including head gaskets frequently told an RV with it with no problems water pump issue was a vendor issue the impeller was loosening up on the shaft and coming loose causing the truck to overheat I was told by Ford that was fixed a number of years ago if it ain't broke don't fix it if it is broke I highly recommend Ford factory parts leave the high boost in the rolling coal to the fools
@@dennishough3709 if you want warm air out of the heater first thing in the cold mornings I suggest using the block heater also use your block heater if it's going to get very cold as far as warm up on a diesel engine that doesn't happen you have a very large capacity radiator with cold water in it soon as the thermostat opens all that cold water hits the thermostat and it closes under the right conditions that can go on all day long idling best thing is to put the motor to work on a cold start wait for the engine idle to stabilize check your instruments make sure everything's okay and start driving I would recommend waiting till the engines up to operating temperature to work it hard
I have a f-450 4x4 dump truck with a 6.0 and it is awesome. It recently had a fuel light come on and was watching how you replaced it and it was very informative and I will replace this as soon as I receive my parts. It has 233000 miles and has automatic transmission and four wheel drive. It hauls 5.3 tons like it is nothing . Thanks for your info and help on fuel filters information.
I had a 2006 F350 SRW Lariat with almost 270,000 miles when I sold it in 2018. The only thing I had a problem with was the Turbo at 240,000ish miles. EGR was deleted and the head's where never off. Kept clean Rotella in it every 5,000 and fuel filters every 10,000.
Mine is also a 2006 . It’s at 181,000 miles with no issues other than 2 old bad batteries I neglected to change which toasted my stock FICM. It’s tuned and deleted with stock head studs. No issues even when it’s a Daily driver with a 6” lift on 35’s driven like a sports car . It rarely has towed anything
Thats why yours lasted with very little repair. You changed the oil like your underwear. Do that and of course delete the emissions and they last. The emissions shorten the life of any diesel engine
I have 2. 2004 6.0 powerstrokes I've got over 265,000 miles on my extended cab, stock engine and oem studs. Only upgrades is coolant filter and exhaust and egr delete, no chip, no issues with anything, oem transmission I've had that truck since around 65,000. I keep up on the maintenance and I'm not easy on my trucks towing trailers, or hauling wood, my other 04 crewcab has over 312,000 miles on it and it keeps on ticking stock head studs. Only egrdelete and exhaust, if you keep up on normal maintenance and keep the chip or programmers off stock engines they will last a long time.
I've got a 06 f350. Changed the oil and filters on time... I drive it like a truck. NOT A RACE CAR..... Has ran great. No problems. 130000 miles. Thanks
That's the key thing with the 6.0s. Drive them like a truck and keep up maintenance. Too many people tune them up the ass and wonder why they have so many problems.
No, mine is also a 03 with 249k now, bought it at 247k. Been driving it for 3 months and just broke 2k miles already. If you treat it right, do all maintenance to the fullest and maybe do some preventive upgrades, I don't see a problem.
My 2005 f350 with 113k miles turned off on me on the highway. I found it was a bad IPR valve. I can’t be too mad because the truck is almost 20 years old. In my experience.. an IPR should be changed as preventative maintenance so it doesn’t leave you stranded!
It always has been amazing to me how everyone talks about how sweet Allison transmission is but no one ever talked about the Ford transmission never seems to have any problems vary interesting. Yup 6.0 has it’s problems no doubt about it. But they really are fixable and becomes a good engine. 6.4 sell that crap ASAP. Still is one of the top Contenders for buying a used truck on the market as long as you do your homework.
When I "studded" my '07 F250, I thought that Victor Reinz Black Diamond head gaskets were the way to go. I was very wrong. They failed in less than 1000 miles while I was pulling a 6000 lb 5th wheel. I went back with stock Ford head gaskets and they've worked just fine. I do have a question for the 6.0 followers: Sometimes when I pull even a moderate load (under 4000 lbs) and am on a slightly increasing grade, the truck lurches and looses power. If I punch it, RPMS climb quickly and there's tons of torque. It's almost like what happens when a manual transmission is in too high of a gear. I have a Scan Gauge and can monitor ICP and IPR, voltage and EOT, ECT and all are within range. Any ideas out there.
My 2000 7.3 f250 had 350000 km when I sold it, bullet proof reliability apart from endlessly replacing seized brake calipers front and back. To be fair it likely wouldn't have been an issue if I was driving it everyday. It also developed a hard starting issue which was corrected with new batteries. Very informative video as I'm on the hunt for another 7.3.
With the 6.0’s if you delete the egr cooler, or upgrade it, then stay up on your maintenance and don’t drive like it’s a race car you’ll be fine. I know plenty of dudes with stock bolts with over 500k miles.
I've got a 07 F250 6.0 with 78546 original miles on it. I'm taking it to BPD in Meza, Az for a level 3 pkg. I've upgraded to the Mishimoto radiator, their intercooler, and lower and upper coolant hoses. Just like you said, making reliable for years to come. BTW, the mileage is as stated above. I really don't use it that much so why spend 70 grand or higher on a new truck when I can spend under 20 grand to make it reliable. I've got the super cab model.
You know, they do have Mechanics that work with them all over the US , there might be a local mechanic that will be able to do it for you. I did it myself, and I am in PHX, just thought they were over priced. Ran me about 4 K total. God Bless !!!
I'm very surprised that you didn't mention the adapter that you sell to convert the electric fan clutch over to the 97 mechanical fan clutch. It helps to prevent overheating and head bolt stretching.
Can someone give me advice on a 2003 super duty with 250 k miles? Pretty meticulously taken care of. Egr deleted, newer turbo, new wheel bearings tires, etc
Do all of the upgrades... Standpipe Dummy plugs Egr delete Upgraded oil cooler. Suggest adding an coolant bypass filter. Suggest adding an oil bypass filter. Not needed but doesnt hurt. IPR screen HPOP STC fitting. ARP head studs. Mostly for tuned motors. I run Shell T5 with Archoil every oil change. Do not extend oil changes. I keep mine at 5K miles. Only use OEM filters too. USE OEM PARTS!! These trucks are very picky about the parts you use. Dont use the crap from autozone, etc... They might get ya down the road but I guarantee you will have issues within 6mo-1years. Get an IPR Air test tool. Hopefully, you never have to use it. If you do alot of towing, the cooling system will need to upgraded. Last but not least..get an Bluetooth OBDII adapter with some kind of scan tool. I use torque pro. It doesnt tell me everything but gives me an good idea of what is going on.
I've owned a 2006 F350 6.0 since Nov. 2015. It had 68K miles when I bought it. Today it has 165K miles. I tow a 14K-lbs RV approx. four times a year; on average 3K miles/ yr. Truck is almost all stock in appearance. It's not the most reliable truck to own if your livelihood depends on it and is your sole daily driver. Yes, you can save lots of money doing your own repairs and upgrades; otherwise, in general, be prepared to fork over lots of money. Excluding fuel, I keep a detailed spreadsheet on what I spend on my truck. I keep my repair costs separate from my preventive maintenance costs. I perform my own oil and fuel filter changes. I've spent $25K over 6-years in repairs averaging out to $4,200/yr. Not all repair costs are engine alone. Front-end hardware, brakes, shocks, new cab-body mounts, etc. are additional expenses that come to mind. Wade is correct in his assessment of the 03-07 Ford Powerstrokes." Love my 6.0 though; it has its' own cult following. Mine looks good, sounds good and rides good. I get lots of nice compliments on it! And Mr. Wesley has a beautiful truck indeed!
6.0 can be a great engine, and once done becomes reliable. ARP studs. Fel Pro MLS head gaskets. Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler and billet water pump. Switch away from the GO5/Ford Gold coolant. Delo ELC or Shell Ultra ELC. Blue spring Ford kit to keep fuel pressure up and constant. FICM check/rebuild and Atlas flash puts power back that Ford began sucking out when things started to go sideways 20 years ago. Bypass filtration is so easy, and a big benefit to the reliability. Many kits out there, buy one, DIY one, but DO IT. 10w30 oil keeps the injectors happy, and doesn't shear over a reasonable change interval. Listen to Wade when he preaches... Thoroughbred knows their stuff.
Ford motor company has to shut down production of the 6.0 due to massive class action lawsuits when people were dying on the side of the road and ambulances because of the unreliability
I've got an 06 and it runs great. If yer having some engine light problems try replacing the batteries. I had this problem but went away after putting both batteries in. 13 mpg in and around 19 highway.
My 6.0 is a rust box. Rear fenders rusted out. Back quarter panels rusted out. But all the important stuff was fixed. My truck might look like crap. But its the most reliable motive of operation Ive owned. But want to remove the egr valve and tune it.
If you remove the EGR valve, you may get erratic cooling fan operation. That's really a thing with later model 6.0 trucks. In all honesty, so many advancements have been made in EGR cooler design and tuning; making deleting trucks a thing of the past. A good quality replacement EGR cooler will give you years of trouble free operation.
Don't be afraid of them. They're like any other truck or vehicle. They have problems and little quirks, but nothing you can't handle with a little patience. Remember something - you can go out and buy a brand new car and it could leave you sitting somewhere just as a 6.0 could. They're not bad trucks at all, they're just misunderstood. I promise you if you can find a good one that's been cared for, and you continue properly caring for it, it will take care of you and serve you well.
I'm thinking about buying a clean 2005 f250 super duty with 149,000 miles for 5g. Everyone I've talked to says the 6.0 is a great boat anchor. I'm old and was a mechanic back when engines were mechanical. They were easy to diagnose by listening to them. Frankly, this electronic age worries me a bit.
Hey wanted to add sometimes if its over filled with coolant itll leak. Dealer told me 7-8 gallons of coolant. I tried that with a coolant chnage it puked. Got it down 4 gallons i believe and no more leaking or puking. Daily drove it engine temps never went above 200 either. So hope this helps someone. Had numerous shops an dealers say heads were toast and thats all it was. Had a 04 bulletproofed 6.0.
Forgot to mention earlier 6.0 coolant reservoirs the min is actually max level and if filled to max level it will push the excess coolant out of the cap…
Hello... I am able to buy a 2006 f250 super duty xlt with 170,000 miles for $5000. I was told it has had a bulletproof kit installed and it looks to be in great shape. However, the owner told me it won't start because of a bad injector and battery lead. What are your thoughts... Buy it or walk away? Thanks Roger
Personally, a not running truck is a hard no unless the bed is in good shape and even then I wouldn’t pay more than 3 grand for. And that’s because a take off bed if the motor is completely shot will get you 1500-2000 back. You can find decent running 250s in the 10-12 range. As for if bulletproofed, look to see if it’s got head studs in it. You should see Allen sockets in the top or the head studs that are exposed from underneath the valve covers. Bottom line, if you buy this truck, you’re taking a huge gamble. It could be something really simply causing the No start. But once you getting running, it could very well have major motor issues, such as a blown head gasket or blocked oil or egr cooler
My 2007 F-350 6.0 started acting up and then just died. It was running fine after having one injector replaced. Had new oil cooler installed and lines. Radiator and coolant all were flushed clean of any access sludge. All total i spent $ 5800 having all new brakes/Rotors and Calibers plus all ne brake lines. Got it back and it ran fine for a couple days. Then for the first time it started loosing power until it goes into limp mode. The motor then will fo nothing but idle. You can try to give it more gas when its in this limp mode. But the motor will not rev up at all. It just stays at an ideal for 5=10 minutes and then starts idling rough and rougher until it just dies. And the only way i can get it to start back up is to give it a just a squirt of either. When I do it will start back up. But it either goes right into that limp mode idle anc and wont rev up. And other times it will rev up for a bit but dont have enough power to get it to move without it dieing. I changed the fuel filters because it had some old fuel that has been setting for right at 2 year's. But by the time when i got it out of the shop it was running fine. But for the First time ever the engine light came on. But after driving it about 300 miles give or take. The engine light went out and the truck was still running fine no misses or lack of power. But after the light went out and a couple hundred more miles. Out of nowhere WITHOUT ANY KIND of warning lights on it started doing the same thing. It looses just a little bit of power and then goes back into that limp mode. Then It looses power until it just goes into an idle for 5 to 10 minutes max and then starts idling real rough and wont rev up ANY. I can mash the pedal to the floor and it just has NO RESPONSE. And after a few minutes it dies and wont start back up for nothing. Unless i give it a small squirt of either. Then it will start again but with the SAME RESULT. It goes into an idle and then eventually it dies again. And all it will do is crank over but wont start on it's own without a splash of starting fluid. It only has around 178.000 miles on it. I don't know what else to do or try to do. With what i gave for the truck and when I bought it. And after the $ 5,800 i just spent on it i have around $ 30,000 tied up in my truck. I hate to get rid of it because of the MAJOR LOSS of MONEY I have spent on it that i will lose on it Everything else about the truck is in perfect working oder. The leather seats are all in perfect condition front and back. The interior is all in almost perfect conditions. No stains/rips or tares anywhere. Even the carpet and head liner has NO ISSUES. IM no mechanic so i dont want to start trying to any major repairs. But I'm at a loss on how and or what to do or even try to do next. My only income is my SOCIAL SECURITY DISABILITY and so i don't have any extra money to get it worked on again. And I refuse to sell it for a little of nothing. Desperate Disabled Grandfather in central Missouri. Thanks for any and all help i can get. Steve Craven Middletown Mo.
These HEUI systems really cant be guessed and and its impossible to diagnose without data. If you choose to fix it yourself, you will need to invest in some kind of scanner that will give you the data you need to properly diagnose and fix the truck. I wish I could help you more than that.
Quick question? I have a 2007 F350 6.0 powerstroke with no check engine light on and it runs but when I pulled my rv 30mi it shut down on me but would start right back up does that sound like an Ipr Replacement? Or... etc.
About to buy my first diesel, 2006 F250 6.0. It’s an automatic, crew cab, short bed. 191K. 1 owner by a family friend. The man is 82 now and he bought it new. Never pulled a 5th wheel with it. Maybe 6-8k lbs every once in a while. (And I mean ver rarely). He paid to have it completely bulletproofed, pretty sure it was around 9k he put into it. He is wanting 10k. I feel like it’s a good price but curious about anyones input on wether it would be worth it or not. Thanks.
Yes I bought mine for $7,500, but talked the guy down for $13,500. He did take some of the parts that he thought made it worth more but, really didn't. Mine is stock except egr delete and 4in straight pipe from the turbo. Mine is a 03 f350 dually 4wd and completely rust free. I bought it down south and live in the midwest. So I could make double what I paid if I was to sell it. Given yours is already bulletproof, my opinion is a yes. They sound phenomenal, make decent power and look great. Mine is a lariat as well. It really doesn't make a difference.
Mine 03 f350 6.0 doesn't have a block heater on it. I live in the midwest and it can get pretty cold, pretty quick. Can I install one myself or how would I go about that?
There’s no denying that there the best trucks for your value I prefer the 7.3 - 6.0 just doesn’t make sense for me because you never get you money back the amount of money you sunk into it can easily never be fixed like my 5.4 3v it was never worth the time with the same issues over and over again 7.3 does everything I need it to I would personally prefer a 6.4 truck with a 7.3 all day 6.0 trucks are nice but they come with a big price to make them run always better with gas in the year model range
I've had 3 6.0's... 2 550's and a 350....total nightmare lol. Unless I had one bullet proofed and everything stock changed out I would never own another one. I bought a 2015 f250 went the 6.2 gas engine and I've never had a problem. I saved a ton of money with that one.
Fixed my 6.0 dropped 0.1L to 5.9 2002 24v Cummins no more head gasket issues no more hot no starts no more high pressure oil leaks no more stuck vgt it always starts and always runs the transmission doesn't go out and has one hell of a power band. Now it's the best of both worlds they Cummins in a Ford.
@@sonnydayz2118 not enough head bolts per cylinder and improper flatness from the factory. ARP studs, o-ringed heads, Motorcraft gaskets and torque to 225 and go. The machine shop and stud torque are key.
@@zackzittel7683 I see that Ford's head bolts had an issue with stretching from high pressure & expansion & contraction, but fixed it with a head stud upgrade. I also learned about the crappy plastic valve in the oil cooler that breaks and causes lubrication issues and etc. There's an aftermarket one with a spin on oil filter that solves that problem too.
Hey guys I’m about to buy a f250 6.0 powerstrokes With 222k. Motor was pulled at 190k for head studs, egr delete, turbo, updated oem oil cooler, 8 155/30 WDI and every single gasket was replaced on the motor. Trans got heavy duty solenoids to handle the increase in power. Any recomendation about it It looks clean interior an exterior there is no leaks and no rust Looks clean just like the one on the video
You can remove the FICM and disassemble it to replace the power supply portion. The logic (computer) portion of the FICM rarely goes bad, but the power supply portion is prone to failure.
Please only put a ford oil cooler in it!!!! Rest you will be doing it again or having gaskets that break up and clog it if you use dorman junk. Nice FICM tune dont hurt either.
On top of that, aftermarkets don't cool well enough. I saved a buck by getting Mishimoto because of their name, but I was disappointed on the performance. It stays around 10 degree difference on avergage and if I'm really hauling ass it fails to keep up.
I heard a story of a guy looking at a 6.0. He bought it. Had a cracked head. But also the previous owner put silicone in the degas bottle hose so the coolant couldn’t backflow
Mileage isn't the consideration as much as condition of the motor and you find that by figuring out what previous owners did with the truck. Then normal things you are looking for, oil blowby, oil consumption, coolant puking out, etc.
My 6.0 broke down every 5000 with the standard horror stories. Finally I put in the Bulletproof Diesel system and has now gone 50000 miles with zero issues..
I just tried to load pictures of my 2006 F250 6.0-253395 miles, but couldn’t. I love this truck, she’s still working, making money. I’ve only put on a aftermarket air intake, and aftermarket FICM(after it went out at 164,000). I did just have EGR problems-check engine light. Had it replaced, light came back on, she went into limp mode, took it to a different shop at home, they replaced the EGR, instrumentation cluster, and alternator. Now I seem to have a “miss” at 65-75mph when I hit a slight incline??? She’s never had that… I bought an “Ancel FD700”. Found codes in my FICM and Instrument cluster. I erased them but it seems like I still have the “Miss”??? Should I reset the PCM??
I think the diagnosis here will depend on 1. What codes come back after being cleared and 2. Monitoring all parameters that could be pertinent to this FICM Voltage, HPOP Commanded vs Actual and lift pump pressure.
I just picked up an all stock 06 6.0 f350 for a price I could t turn down. It sat for 4 years. They marked not because it was running rough. It has about 364k miles on it. I think it’s the EGR clog, but not sure. I don’t have any engine codes besides a stored glow plug 🔌 code.
Several things can cause these trucks to run rough. If you haven't gotten all of the basic maintenance caught up, now is the time to do that. If the EGR is clogged, that needs to be addressed immediately. There are several great options for upgraded EGR coolers that are much better than the OEM design. I'd say it's also time to replace all 8 glowplugs if you haven't already. I'd recommend OEM Motorcraft only for those. What kind of other data are you pulling from the truck? How does the ECT/EOT look?
Aside from calling Thoroughbred Diesel for expert advice, I personally recommend replacing the OEM and troublesome EGR cooler with a new, updated and more robust version. Replace the oil cooler, replace the water pump and hoses (cooling system is very important on these trucks!), replace the OEM radiator (the crimped on plastic end tanks leak), have the truck studded - and while it's being studded MAKE SURE you have a machine shop machine and check the heads. When putting it all back together, disassemble the turbo and clean the unison ring/VGT vanes, flush the coolant, add a coolant filter, and change the oil with a good synthetic (I like Schaeffer's). Last, the cherry on top is a quality monitor like an Edge CTS3.
Everything eventually needs both minor and major maintenance. Ford’s engine cab design is terrible, along with Ford designing in specialty tools everywhere possible. So for me it’s an immediate pass on anything that’s tough to work on. I had a 2004 2wd 6.0 Excursion. It was an awesome truck. Literally 26 mpg at 75 mph. And it would pull our toy hauler, 9,000- 10,000 like it wasn’t even there. Awesome truck when it worked, EGR went out at around 25k , under warranty. Then at around 120k 3 injectors failed. My friend owned a car transport company and had several 6,0 service trucks for his big rig fleet. And everyone of them went through EGR’s, water pumps, turbos, injectors.
I bought a 450 last June & haven't gotten to drive it a week straight yet! It's a Tow truck so I had to fix the boom on the back the first time it was in the shop then the ipr valve & high pressure oil pump failed.. finally saved the money to get that fixed after a couple months then now it has excessive blow by 😔🥺.. where can I find a "reliable" 6.0 engine? I need one bad. Please help
Looking at a 06 with 170k miles. Was told the engine light is on because of egr replacement 2 years ago. Kinda worrying me. Not looking to add any power to it just be a work truck
My husband recently purchased a great condition 2005 f250 and is having a small issue with the hauling part of the wiring 🤷🏻♀️ ,not too sure what is the correct term for it, but is this something common among these vehicles?
I’m thinking that you are talking about the 7 way hookup for the trailer lights? If you have a circuit of that that is giving you problems make sure to check all fuses.
Help pls . I have a 2004 ford excursion 6.0 turbo diesel limited. I was driving up hill towing a dump trailer, and then my engine started overheating, it started spewing white smoke out the exhaust when ever I pressed the accelerator. I got it towed home and started working on it, but to a crank no start …any help.pls
This is going to be a pretty complex failure that will need to be identified by a trained mechanic. I wouldn’t do too much cranking on that engine because you have had coolant in the cylinders (evident by the white smoke) and could run the risk of hydrolocking the engine.
Biggest problem with the 6.0 is the previous owner.
6.0s are great trucks.
My 2007 has 550k miles on it. Oil changes every 4k fuel filters every 8k coolant flushes every 30k. Truck has never had any issues beside one water pump at 150k and one glow plug went bad at 350k
I do t think I would buy a used one tho unless it was highly documented or a one owner with super low mileage. To many Guys doing 10-15k oil changes and 45-50k on fuel filters and not keeping the coolant proper or running hot tunes in them no thanks
Add a fuel pressure gauge so if the pressure drops below 45 psi you want to shut it down. They will run with less than 45 psi but it will destroy the injectors. I watch the EGT and water and oil temps all the time. I change the oil every 4000 miles. But the best thing for engines is too work them. They are not meant for hauling groceries. It you work them and keep the veins in the turbo moving. You will have a lot less trouble in the long run.
05 Excursion 6.0 not studded pretty much stock had since new awesome truck. 252,000 miles at 100,000 oil cooler went out. Had 1 injector replaced. Lots of glow plugs. Still have egr use to have to clean pretty often. Removed butterfly in air intake seems to run cleaner doesn't plug egr valve and run hot shot additive Yes get an Edge reader to monitor engine. Live in Wisconsin never heard the cooling fan run, come to find the cooling fan chord was cut by cooling fan. So glad we had the reader because we had a road trip out west in July, that could have been bad. Have rust in rockers but not bad. I'm no mechanic but UA-cam and the helpful 6.0 community has saved me thousands.
“Or pick up guys” 😂😂😂😂
I feel like that went over a lot of people’s heads
woman buy trucks too right
I mean, it’s a Ford
Guys to go do the work
@@Mycorvette6968 _Better that ur Chevy so._
"slush box full of neutral" love that expression...
Some additional suggestions when purchasing: Check for matching batteries, if one battery failed then both need to be changed. Use high quality and high CCA battries - the electrical system on these engines are key to long life. The AC pumps on these older trucks fail and plug the condenser, orifice, and sometimes the evaporator - check it. Check your oil for coolant - it is another sign of head gasket problems. Check for Crankcase pressure (blowback) - indication of bad rings and cracked pistons. Listen to the cadence when turning key on - indication of bad injectors. There are often vacuum issues with these older trucks (older plastic lines crack and leak) - check that the cabin air actuator works (if stuck on defrost you likely have a vacuum leak). Listen to the vacuum pump when you first key on - it should run but not for a long time. High mileage - check the drive train (drive shaft and axial universals). Last suggestion - rent a high quality diagnostic computer and check the codes and performance on the ICP, ICR, EGP, EOT, ECT, VGT, IAT(1&2), and injection balance (if the computer can do it). I love this engine, but it has a lot of small things that can lead to big problems. If you want a long life engine, you have to monitor what is going on with live values, so get a monitor.
Do you have any monitors you recommend?
Ummm i just recharge them after 24 hour they both fine.
Your old Android phone (you already paid for it, might as well get more use out of it), 4.95 for Torque Pro, an inexpensive ELM327 BT obd2 adapter and 20 mins watching DieselTechRon's (RIP) Torque Pro set up video and you will be able to monitor 95% of what you need to keep your truck reliable and catch problems early (like your EOT/ECT deltas). An EGT gauge if you do a lot of towing is about the only other thing you might want.
If your headgasket goes bad, O-Ring the heads, put Ford OEM headgaskets, and ARP headstuds on it. Also, put new lifters, 6.4 pushrods, rocker box gaskets, rear main seal, injector cups, new oil pan gasket, and instead of deleting the egr cooler, weld some soft plugs in the two ends of it to block flow, while still being in factory location, and supporting your down pipe...also replace the oil cooler with a new OEM unit on it while its all apart. And you will have a good motor for a long time..... want to take it a step further? Go with an oem oil cooler delete kit from bulletproof diesel or other sources to get rid of the possibility of clogged oil coolers, and have the larger oil to air cooler instead.
2 years most after that
@@chartedtravel must have had bad luck with the 6.0 motors? Personally my 2 6.0s I’ve had were/are some of the best running engines I’ve ever had. And I own a couple 7.3s and have had 2 of the ford 6.7s.
The buyers reviews of Ford vs Dodge: Ford-interior, don’t worry, body, don’t worry, trans don’t worry, engine, worry
Dodge-interior, if it has an interior at all you are lucky, exterior, door skins ripping, rust everywhere, dually skirts cracking, grills junk, mirrors junk, trans, NV or forget about it, engine, don’t worry about it 😂
"WRONG" , it is NOT the bolt configuration for the heads , it "ALL" starts with their cheapy design of an oil cooler which right in the heart of the engine. This causes the oil AND TEMPERATURE WATER FROM THE RADIATOR TO MIX BECAUSE OF THEIR FAILURE. So you need to replace that oil cooler, and YES, the BPD oil cooler system out from is the best so far. This will keep your oil cool, this will keep your EGR from failing, "AND" this will save your heads from over pressure. If you follow each failure as to why it failed, it ALL comes down to the oil cooler in the heart of the engine. It is a radiator type, with very thin walls separating the oil and radiator water apart. The Idiots used the water from the radiator to "COOL" your oil. everything on that truck runs off your "oil Pressure" which is why it is very important to maintain the oil cool and as clean as possible. Trying to cool all that oil and trying to run cool, the water pump goes out. So you need several upgrades. Water pump kit, oil pump high pressure valve, stand pipes (for your injectors), AND the Oil cooler 9doing away with what they have and installing an external cooler). "YES" BPD had what I needed, but I still think they were over priced. Close to 4 K doing it ALL myself. If you are in PHX, I will help you with what you need to do. If you research the head problem and bolts, YES they are also a cheap design, BUT fail because of high pressure under there caused by either a failed EGR, or oil cooler. "ALL" comes down to that "OIL COOLER"
God Bless !!
I had a 2004 6.0 with 325,000 when a I wiped it out on black ice in NC. At 200,000 I replaced the injection. It moved campers from the east coast to west coast. O and I mean 0 problem my camper weight in a 14k. So all this is bull shit.
Sounds like stay away from the 6.0 unless you like fixing the engine and you have deep pockets. How could a company like Ford release a motor like this? What great engineering. Lol this truck will keep people that work in them rich and pushing them.
298k and the factory oil cooler finally went. Absolutely love 6.0s
Must be 1 in a thousand 🤣
You want to buy another one? I have a "lovely " 2005 F250 crew cab I would like to get rid of.
@@bradleynelson5915 how many miles on it?
500,000 miles on my 07’ 6.0. Engine never rebuilt. Doors still open and close nicely. Honestly it still rides like a new truck. These 99-07 trucks were the toughest trucks ever made. Regular maintenance and never raced or beat on; just used for work. Just get rid of the EGR bullshit and don’t slap a tuner on it.
Good to hear. Mine has 251,000 miles
Couldnt agree more. My 7.3 Excursion is still bone stock and will tow whatever you put behind it as long as you dont need to get there fast. But, my 05 F250 is 10 steps above. Both have right at or over 300,000 miles on them. Rotella changed every 5,000. Fuel filters every 10,000. The most major thing i have had to do to either are a, transmission in my Excursion and, glow plugs in my 6.0. For everyday driving. 6.0 is the best i have owned.
Patrickw Perry yeah I’m still daily driving my 6.0. I put on about only 500 miles a week now. I do 7,500 mile oil changes with the Amsoil HD Diesel & Marine 15W-40. I’ve had the oil analyzed at 500,000 miles and I was told the oil could be stretched further and the engine had a lot of life left in it (below average for wear metals). I did the glow plugs and harness about two years ago. I also had the FICM rebuilt and upgraded the alternator to a 230 amp unit with heavier gauge cables to the batteries. Ford really undersized the alternator on these trucks. The glow plugs really draw a lot of amps at start up. It’s a totally new truck in the winter months with the new set up I have. Starts and idles a lot better in freezing temps. My next truck will probably be a 7.3 gas. I think the gas trucks are now more reliable then the 2008+ diesel trucks. It’s totally reversed.
Thanks for the great input. These Trucks are great only if you do most the work yourself. Other wise they are to expensive to own.
Yes it can be very expensive but I work on my own stuff so I save a bunch there. Easy $100 just to change the oil, but I use full synthetic and change it once a year.
You want a reliable 6.0 powerstroke? Buy it from an older man or a working man that used the 6.0 for work amd not for racing. I have seen plenty of 6:0 powerstrokes with well over 400k miles with minor upgrades on stock head bolts. Change your oil every 3500 miles man. Seriously these engines shear oil fast. Proper maintenance folks. I have a 2003 6:0 powerstroke with subtle uogrades no head studs just bolts. 260k miles with factory turbo head gaskets bolts etc.
I’m going to look at an 04 this week. 203k. Only had 2 owners. Not lifted on stock wheels. They are only asking 11k. Lariat FX4 package
I was Ford certified on the 6 leiptr in the years that I worked on I'm the biggest problem that motor had was the customer driving it follow your Ford maintenance plan at scheduled intervals do everything it tells you to do the six leader left the factory turned up as high in pork and horsepower as was possible for the expected life of the motor punching the power level up larger turbos bigger injectors all bad news for reliability do not extend the oil change intervals I don't care what oil you put in it can't tell you how many times I've seen Apple cord filters because of customers extending it because the oil manufacturer says you can keep a clean filter in it same with fuel filters keep clean filters in it don't extend the filter life cheap coolant is another no no put good coolant in it every 30000 miles do not allow the truck to Extended idle to warm up do not allow the truck to idle while you go in and have lunch these are two of the biggest cause of your intake manifold coking which is the major cause of EGR valves sticking and not operating properly I owned one of these trucks and drove it for more than 12 years and had no problems with anything including head gaskets frequently told an RV with it with no problems water pump issue was a vendor issue the impeller was loosening up on the shaft and coming loose causing the truck to overheat I was told by Ford that was fixed a number of years ago if it ain't broke don't fix it if it is broke I highly recommend Ford factory parts leave the high boost in the rolling coal to the fools
Periods and commas would have went a long way in this comment. But, I was able to get what you were saying.
What would recommend for warm up?
I have been letting mine warm up 5 to 10 minutes. Is this doing more harm than good?
@@dennishough3709 if you want warm air out of the heater first thing in the cold mornings I suggest using the block heater also use your block heater if it's going to get very cold as far as warm up on a diesel engine that doesn't happen you have a very large capacity radiator with cold water in it soon as the thermostat opens all that cold water hits the thermostat and it closes under the right conditions that can go on all day long idling best thing is to put the motor to work on a cold start wait for the engine idle to stabilize check your instruments make sure everything's okay and start driving I would recommend waiting till the engines up to operating temperature to work it hard
@@montejones5788 Thanks for the info.
Most helpful.
Wow 👌 👏
I have a f-450 4x4 dump truck with a 6.0 and it is awesome. It recently had a fuel light come on and was watching how you replaced it and it was very informative and I will replace this as soon as I receive my parts. It has 233000 miles and has automatic transmission and four wheel drive. It hauls 5.3 tons like it is nothing . Thanks for your info and help on fuel filters information.
Absolutely love my 6.0. Building it day by day
Only buy a 6.0 if you can do all the work and maintenance yourself!
I had a 2006 F350 SRW Lariat with almost 270,000 miles when I sold it in 2018. The only thing I had a problem with was the Turbo at 240,000ish miles. EGR was deleted and the head's where never off. Kept clean Rotella in it every 5,000 and fuel filters every 10,000.
Mine is also a 2006 . It’s at 181,000 miles with no issues other than 2 old bad batteries I neglected to change which toasted my stock FICM. It’s tuned and deleted with stock head studs. No issues even when it’s a Daily driver with a 6” lift on 35’s driven like a sports car . It rarely has towed anything
Thats why yours lasted with very little repair. You changed the oil like your underwear. Do that and of course delete the emissions and they last. The emissions shorten the life of any diesel engine
04 with 277 on it, only had to do 2 injectors. Will be studding it soon.
Did you tune it or keep it stock?
@@FishFind3000 Stock
I have 2. 2004 6.0 powerstrokes I've got over 265,000 miles on my extended cab, stock engine and oem studs. Only upgrades is coolant filter and exhaust and egr delete, no chip, no issues with anything, oem transmission I've had that truck since around 65,000. I keep up on the maintenance and I'm not easy on my trucks towing trailers, or hauling wood, my other 04 crewcab has over 312,000 miles on it and it keeps on ticking stock head studs. Only egrdelete and exhaust, if you keep up on normal maintenance and keep the chip or programmers off stock engines they will last a long time.
I would NEVER buy anything with a sicko. Older or newer.....
I've got a 06 f350. Changed the oil and filters on time... I drive it like a truck. NOT A RACE CAR..... Has ran great. No problems. 130000 miles. Thanks
That's the key thing with the 6.0s. Drive them like a truck and keep up maintenance. Too many people tune them up the ass and wonder why they have so many problems.
I will put my 03 6.0 up against any new diesel truck on the market..
How the fix the gauge cluster on a 2004 6.0 Powerstroke
I just bought a 03 from the original owner 274,000 and no bulletproofing. Did I get a good one or is it a ticking time bomb??
No, mine is also a 03 with 249k now, bought it at 247k. Been driving it for 3 months and just broke 2k miles already. If you treat it right, do all maintenance to the fullest and maybe do some preventive upgrades, I don't see a problem.
My 2005 f350 with 113k miles turned off on me on the highway. I found it was a bad IPR valve. I can’t be too mad because the truck is almost 20 years old. In my experience.. an IPR should be changed as preventative maintenance so it doesn’t leave you stranded!
Everybody says the 6.0 is the worst diesel but just wait until you get a 6.4 powerstroke
It always has been amazing to me how everyone talks about how sweet Allison transmission is but no one ever talked about the Ford transmission never seems to have any problems vary interesting. Yup 6.0 has it’s problems no doubt about it. But they really are fixable and becomes a good engine. 6.4 sell that crap ASAP. Still is one of the top Contenders for buying a used truck on the market as long as you do your homework.
I just wanted to say I purchased an AirDog 4G 165GPH lift pump from you guys. Great service and quick delivery! You guys rock! 😎👍
When I "studded" my '07 F250, I thought that Victor Reinz Black Diamond head gaskets were the way to go. I was very wrong. They failed in less than 1000 miles while I was pulling a 6000 lb 5th wheel. I went back with stock Ford head gaskets and they've worked just fine. I do have a question for the 6.0 followers: Sometimes when I pull even a moderate load (under 4000 lbs) and am on a slightly increasing grade, the truck lurches and looses power. If I punch it, RPMS climb quickly and there's tons of torque. It's almost like what happens when a manual transmission is in too high of a gear. I have a Scan Gauge and can monitor ICP and IPR, voltage and EOT, ECT and all are within range. Any ideas out there.
Codes? If you are monitoring ICP is there any variance there?
My 2000 7.3 f250 had 350000 km when I sold it, bullet proof reliability apart from endlessly replacing seized brake calipers front and back. To be fair it likely wouldn't have been an issue if I was driving it everyday. It also developed a hard starting issue which was corrected with new batteries. Very informative video as I'm on the hunt for another 7.3.
This is a 6.0 video
@@teds4063 right 6.0s are Garbage that's this point
@@ALT_RIGHT them and the 6.4 are basically throw away engines
With the 6.0’s if you delete the egr cooler, or upgrade it, then stay up on your maintenance and don’t drive like it’s a race car you’ll be fine.
I know plenty of dudes with stock bolts with over 500k miles.
I’ve had 2 6.0 power strokes and once there deleted and studded and maintained well it will last a long time
Egr deleted?
@@sticky40sx71 I’m sure that’s what he’s talking about
Save your $$ don’t ever buy a Navistar 6.0 or 6.4..
I've got a 07 F250 6.0 with 78546 original miles on it. I'm taking it to BPD in Meza, Az for a level 3 pkg.
I've upgraded to the Mishimoto radiator, their intercooler, and lower and upper coolant hoses. Just like you
said, making reliable for years to come. BTW, the mileage is as stated above. I really don't use it that much so why spend 70 grand or higher on a new truck when I can spend under 20 grand to make it reliable.
I've got the super cab model.
You know, they do have Mechanics that work with them all over the US , there might be a local mechanic that will be able to do it for you. I did it myself, and I am in PHX, just thought they were over priced. Ran me about 4 K total. God Bless !!!
@@curlyelp7530 I’m also in phoenix. If you don’t mind what shop did you go to to have them bulletproof it?
20 grand?? Ouch!
Man watching so many videos I’m disappointed. I was gonna go buy a 06 f350 6.0 in the am with 194,000 miles for $4,800 Now i dont want to any more 😪
I'm very surprised that you didn't mention the adapter that you sell to convert the electric fan clutch over to the 97 mechanical fan clutch. It helps to prevent overheating and head bolt stretching.
Thanks, good idea!
I did this and wish I did it sooner, pulling all the time.
Can someone give me advice on a 2003 super duty with 250 k miles? Pretty meticulously taken care of. Egr deleted, newer turbo, new wheel bearings tires, etc
Sure give us a call at 866-941-9688.
Do all of the upgrades...
Standpipe
Dummy plugs
Egr delete
Upgraded oil cooler. Suggest adding an coolant bypass filter.
Suggest adding an oil bypass filter. Not needed but doesnt hurt.
IPR screen
HPOP STC fitting.
ARP head studs. Mostly for tuned motors.
I run Shell T5 with Archoil every oil change. Do not extend oil changes. I keep mine at 5K miles. Only use OEM filters too.
USE OEM PARTS!! These trucks are very picky about the parts you use. Dont use the crap from autozone, etc... They might get ya down the road but I guarantee you will have issues within 6mo-1years.
Get an IPR Air test tool. Hopefully, you never have to use it.
If you do alot of towing, the cooling system will need to upgraded.
Last but not least..get an Bluetooth OBDII adapter with some kind of scan tool. I use torque pro. It doesnt tell me everything but gives me an good idea of what is going on.
What cooling system upgrades do you suggest?
I've owned a 2006 F350 6.0 since Nov. 2015. It had 68K miles when I bought it. Today it has 165K miles. I tow a 14K-lbs RV approx. four times a year; on average 3K miles/ yr. Truck is almost all stock in appearance. It's not the most reliable truck to own if your livelihood depends on it and is your sole daily driver. Yes, you can save lots of money doing your own repairs and upgrades; otherwise, in general, be prepared to fork over lots of money. Excluding fuel, I keep a detailed spreadsheet on what I spend on my truck. I keep my repair costs separate from my preventive maintenance costs. I perform my own oil and fuel filter changes. I've spent $25K over 6-years in repairs averaging out to $4,200/yr. Not all repair costs are engine alone. Front-end hardware, brakes, shocks, new cab-body mounts, etc. are additional expenses that come to mind. Wade is correct in his assessment of the 03-07 Ford Powerstrokes." Love my 6.0 though; it has its' own cult following. Mine looks good, sounds good and rides good. I get lots of nice compliments on it! And Mr. Wesley has a beautiful truck indeed!
weird..i daily drive a bone stock 6.0 at 282,000 miles, dont need all those fancy parts.
6.0 can be a great engine, and once done becomes reliable.
ARP studs.
Fel Pro MLS head gaskets.
Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler and billet water pump.
Switch away from the GO5/Ford Gold coolant. Delo ELC or Shell Ultra ELC.
Blue spring Ford kit to keep fuel pressure up and constant.
FICM check/rebuild and Atlas flash puts power back that Ford began sucking out when things started to go sideways 20 years ago.
Bypass filtration is so easy, and a big benefit to the reliability. Many kits out there, buy one, DIY one, but DO IT.
10w30 oil keeps the injectors happy, and doesn't shear over a reasonable change interval.
Listen to Wade when he preaches... Thoroughbred knows their stuff.
Ford motor company has to shut down production of the 6.0 due to massive class action lawsuits when people were dying on the side of the road and ambulances because of the unreliability
I've got an 06 and it runs great. If yer having some engine light problems try replacing the batteries. I had this problem but went away after putting both batteries in. 13 mpg in and around 19 highway.
13 in town, then 19 on highway.
Straight pipe and yes I hate on Cummins
My 6.0 is a rust box. Rear fenders rusted out. Back quarter panels rusted out. But all the important stuff was fixed. My truck might look like crap. But its the most reliable motive of operation Ive owned. But want to remove the egr valve and tune it.
If you remove the EGR valve, you may get erratic cooling fan operation. That's really a thing with later model 6.0 trucks. In all honesty, so many advancements have been made in EGR cooler design and tuning; making deleting trucks a thing of the past. A good quality replacement EGR cooler will give you years of trouble free operation.
Thinking about buying a 04..f350...but im afraid of the 6.0
Don't be afraid of them. They're like any other truck or vehicle. They have problems and little quirks, but nothing you can't handle with a little patience. Remember something - you can go out and buy a brand new car and it could leave you sitting somewhere just as a 6.0 could. They're not bad trucks at all, they're just misunderstood. I promise you if you can find a good one that's been cared for, and you continue properly caring for it, it will take care of you and serve you well.
I'm thinking about buying a clean 2005 f250 super duty with 149,000 miles for 5g. Everyone I've talked to says the 6.0 is a great boat anchor. I'm old and was a mechanic back when engines were mechanical. They were easy to diagnose by listening to them. Frankly, this electronic age worries me a bit.
Hey wanted to add sometimes if its over filled with coolant itll leak. Dealer told me 7-8 gallons of coolant. I tried that with a coolant chnage it puked. Got it down 4 gallons i believe and no more leaking or puking. Daily drove it engine temps never went above 200 either. So hope this helps someone. Had numerous shops an dealers say heads were toast and thats all it was. Had a 04 bulletproofed 6.0.
Forgot to mention earlier 6.0 coolant reservoirs the min is actually max level and if filled to max level it will push the excess coolant out of the cap…
Hey, aren't far from me. Just finding this channel. That logo looks awfully familiar....
Given the costs and problems of new diesel trucks, the 6.0 Powerstroke can be worth the investment
Hello... I am able to buy a 2006 f250 super duty xlt with 170,000 miles for $5000. I was told it has had a bulletproof kit installed and it looks to be in great shape. However, the owner told me it won't start because of a bad injector and battery lead. What are your thoughts... Buy it or walk away?
Thanks Roger
Personally, a not running truck is a hard no unless the bed is in good shape and even then I wouldn’t pay more than 3 grand for. And that’s because a take off bed if the motor is completely shot will get you 1500-2000 back. You can find decent running 250s in the 10-12 range.
As for if bulletproofed, look to see if it’s got head studs in it. You should see Allen sockets in the top or the head studs that are exposed from underneath the valve covers.
Bottom line, if you buy this truck, you’re taking a huge gamble. It could be something really simply causing the No start. But once you getting running, it could very well have major motor issues, such as a blown head gasket or blocked oil or egr cooler
Hard to say but as long as you don’t have blowby or evidence of a blown head gasket, an injector or a battery cable is a easy fix.
My 2007 F-350 6.0 started acting up and then just died. It was running fine after having one injector replaced. Had new oil cooler installed and lines. Radiator and coolant all were flushed clean of any access sludge. All total i spent
$ 5800 having all new brakes/Rotors and Calibers plus all ne brake lines. Got it back and it ran fine for a couple days. Then for the first time it started loosing power until it goes into limp mode. The motor then will fo nothing but idle. You can try to give it more gas when its in this limp mode. But the motor will not rev up at all. It just stays at an ideal for 5=10 minutes and then starts idling rough and rougher until it just dies. And the only way i can get it to start back up is to give it a just a squirt of either. When I do it will start back up. But it either goes right into that limp mode idle anc and wont rev up. And other times it will rev up for a bit but dont have enough power to get it to move without it dieing. I changed the fuel filters because it had some old fuel that has been setting for right at 2 year's. But by the time when i got it out of the shop it was running fine. But for the First time ever the engine light came on.
But after driving it about 300 miles give or take. The engine light went out and the truck was still running fine no misses or lack of power. But after the light went out and a couple hundred more miles. Out of nowhere WITHOUT ANY KIND of warning lights on it started doing the same thing. It looses just a little bit of power and then goes back into that limp mode. Then It looses power until it just goes into an idle for 5 to 10 minutes max and then starts idling real rough and wont rev up ANY. I can mash the pedal to the floor and it just has NO RESPONSE.
And after a few minutes it dies and wont start back up for nothing. Unless i give it a small squirt of either. Then it will start again but with the SAME RESULT. It goes into an idle and then eventually it dies again. And all it will do is crank over but wont start on it's own without a splash of starting fluid. It only has around 178.000 miles on it.
I don't know what else to do or try to do. With what i gave for the truck and when I bought it. And after the $ 5,800 i just spent on it i have around $ 30,000 tied up in my truck. I hate to get rid of it because of the MAJOR LOSS of MONEY I have spent on it that i will lose on it Everything else about the truck is in perfect working oder. The leather seats are all in perfect condition front and back. The interior is all in almost perfect conditions. No stains/rips or tares anywhere. Even the carpet and head liner has NO ISSUES. IM no mechanic so i dont want to start trying to any major repairs. But I'm at a loss on how and or what to do or even try to do next.
My only income is my SOCIAL SECURITY DISABILITY and so i don't have any extra money to get it worked on again. And I refuse to sell it for a little of nothing.
Desperate Disabled Grandfather in central Missouri.
Thanks for any and all help i can get.
Steve Craven Middletown Mo.
These HEUI systems really cant be guessed and and its impossible to diagnose without data. If you choose to fix it yourself, you will need to invest in some kind of scanner that will give you the data you need to properly diagnose and fix the truck. I wish I could help you more than that.
Quick question? I have a 2007 F350 6.0 powerstroke with no check engine light on and it runs but when I pulled my rv 30mi it shut down on me but would start right back up does that sound like an Ipr Replacement? Or... etc.
Really need to know what the ipr command is and if hp oil is keeping up to make that diagnosis. A scan tool would really help to diagnose.
Sounds like a HPOP issue, but really need more data like IPR% and ICP V at when cranking.
Proper length pushrods after sending out the heads
Outstanding work. I recently had one done by power stroke help in Burford Georgia. Bill Hewitt.. 2006 Amarillo..
Thanks! #powerstrokestrong
Price ?
About to buy my first diesel, 2006 F250 6.0. It’s an automatic, crew cab, short bed. 191K. 1 owner by a family friend. The man is 82 now and he bought it new. Never pulled a 5th wheel with it. Maybe 6-8k lbs every once in a while. (And I mean ver rarely). He paid to have it completely bulletproofed, pretty sure it was around 9k he put into it. He is wanting 10k. I feel like it’s a good price but curious about anyones input on wether it would be worth it or not. Thanks.
Ohhh and it’s a Lariat if that makes any difference to anyones input.
Yes I bought mine for $7,500, but talked the guy down for $13,500. He did take some of the parts that he thought made it worth more but, really didn't. Mine is stock except egr delete and 4in straight pipe from the turbo. Mine is a 03 f350 dually 4wd and completely rust free. I bought it down south and live in the midwest. So I could make double what I paid if I was to sell it. Given yours is already bulletproof, my opinion is a yes. They sound phenomenal, make decent power and look great. Mine is a lariat as well. It really doesn't make a difference.
Mine 03 f350 6.0 doesn't have a block heater on it. I live in the midwest and it can get pretty cold, pretty quick. Can I install one myself or how would I go about that?
It's my understanding that all 6.0’s came with the block heater installed. Maybe you just need the cord portion?
Change your oil religiously, use archoil additive in oil, and stanadine fuel additive in fuel everytime you fill up!
There’s no denying that there the best trucks for your value I prefer the 7.3 - 6.0 just doesn’t make sense for me because you never get you money back the amount of money you sunk into it can easily never be fixed like my 5.4 3v it was never worth the time with the same issues over and over again 7.3 does everything I need it to I would personally prefer a 6.4 truck with a 7.3 all day 6.0 trucks are nice but they come with a big price to make them run always better with gas in the year model range
Maintenance. Have an 06 just bought with 92000. Runs perfect. Just take care of her 👌
I've had 3 6.0's... 2 550's and a 350....total nightmare lol. Unless I had one bullet proofed and everything stock changed out I would never own another one. I bought a 2015 f250 went the 6.2 gas engine and I've never had a problem. I saved a ton of money with that one.
Took listing off about half the cooling system, entire EGR system, and engine teardown/rebuild to finally get to that word - reliable 😅
READ my "Post" it will tell you more !!
Fixed my 6.0 dropped 0.1L to 5.9 2002 24v Cummins no more head gasket issues no more hot no starts no more high pressure oil leaks no more stuck vgt it always starts and always runs the transmission doesn't go out and has one hell of a power band. Now it's the best of both worlds they Cummins in a Ford.
With the 6.0 iron block and heads, what caused the head gasket problems? Head bolt stretching?
@@sonnydayz2118 not enough head bolts per cylinder and improper flatness from the factory. ARP studs, o-ringed heads, Motorcraft gaskets and torque to 225 and go. The machine shop and stud torque are key.
@@sonnydayz2118 overheating and warping either from cracked EGR cooler or clogged oil cooler.
@@zackzittel7683 I see that Ford's head bolts had an issue with stretching from high pressure & expansion & contraction, but fixed it with a head stud upgrade. I also learned about the crappy plastic valve in the oil cooler that breaks and causes lubrication issues and etc. There's an aftermarket one with a spin on oil filter that solves that problem too.
How did you do that change from 6.0 to 5.9? Thank you.
Would this be a good truck for me to get as my first vehicle?
Yes, and a good vehicle to learn to work on.
I had the O-ringed big dog cylinder heads put on 4 years ago and never had a head gasket issue since then. ARP head studs and Ford gaskets.
Out of curiosity, how much are those heads?
We had a fleet of Sick.oh f350s , nothing but trouble but one duramax that had 500000 miles and only replaced 1 lifter pump
Hey guys
I’m about to buy a f250 6.0 powerstrokes
With 222k. Motor was pulled at 190k for head studs, egr delete, turbo, updated oem oil cooler, 8 155/30 WDI and every single gasket was replaced on the motor. Trans got heavy duty solenoids to handle the increase in power.
Any recomendation about it
It looks clean interior an exterior there is no leaks and no rust
Looks clean just like the one on the video
The later 6.0s are better 05 and up egr delete them soon enough and run a good full synthetic oil and regularly maintain them they will typically last
Looking at a 2006 with 280,000 miles. 6.0 worries me though
Stay away from 6.0 bottom line
How do you do freshen up a FICM?
In my opinion, purchase new.
You can remove the FICM and disassemble it to replace the power supply portion. The logic (computer) portion of the FICM rarely goes bad, but the power supply portion is prone to failure.
Buy one bulletproof from the factory and get a 7.3
Real simple buy a 7.3 if you dont like turning wrenches .yes i own a 6liter but also have a 7.3 incase lol
Please only put a ford oil cooler in it!!!! Rest you will be doing it again or having gaskets that break up and clog it if you use dorman junk. Nice FICM tune dont hurt either.
On top of that, aftermarkets don't cool well enough. I saved a buck by getting Mishimoto because of their name, but I was disappointed on the performance. It stays around 10 degree difference on avergage and if I'm really hauling ass it fails to keep up.
I heard a story of a guy looking at a 6.0. He bought it. Had a cracked head. But also the previous owner put silicone in the degas bottle hose so the coolant couldn’t backflow
Man I want that grill for my 06 f350
It's the "Harley Davidson" package grille, just with a custom emblem. :)
What is a safe mileage to buy a used bulletproofed 6.0L power stroke?
Mileage isn't the consideration as much as condition of the motor and you find that by figuring out what previous owners did with the truck. Then normal things you are looking for, oil blowby, oil consumption, coolant puking out, etc.
What does he mean by pick up guys……
Or pickup girls. Whatever is your preference.
My 6.0 broke down every 5000 with the standard horror stories. Finally I put in the Bulletproof Diesel system and has now gone 50000 miles with zero issues..
I'm a 7.3 man but I wont bash on people that like 6.0s
I just tried to load pictures of my 2006 F250 6.0-253395 miles, but couldn’t.
I love this truck, she’s still working, making money.
I’ve only put on a aftermarket air intake, and aftermarket FICM(after it went out at 164,000).
I did just have EGR problems-check engine light.
Had it replaced, light came back on, she went into limp mode, took it to a different shop at home, they replaced the EGR, instrumentation cluster, and alternator.
Now I seem to have a “miss” at 65-75mph when I hit a slight incline???
She’s never had that…
I bought an “Ancel FD700”. Found codes in my FICM and Instrument cluster. I erased them but it seems like I still have the “Miss”???
Should I reset the PCM??
I think the diagnosis here will depend on 1. What codes come back after being cleared and 2. Monitoring all parameters that could be pertinent to this FICM Voltage, HPOP Commanded vs Actual and lift pump pressure.
303k miles on my 5r110 had to change the harness on it @300k but was actually cheap and easy to replace. Shift perfectly now
6.0 buyers guide: don’t buy one!
egr delete have heads o-ring and studs antifreeze filter better oil filter and keep up with service
Make sure that you drive it with a COLD And not already warmed up motor before you purchase one.
I just picked up an all stock 06 6.0 f350 for a price I could t turn down. It sat for 4 years. They marked not because it was running rough. It has about 364k miles on it. I think it’s the EGR clog, but not sure. I don’t have any engine codes besides a stored glow plug 🔌 code.
Several things can cause these trucks to run rough. If you haven't gotten all of the basic maintenance caught up, now is the time to do that. If the EGR is clogged, that needs to be addressed immediately. There are several great options for upgraded EGR coolers that are much better than the OEM design. I'd say it's also time to replace all 8 glowplugs if you haven't already. I'd recommend OEM Motorcraft only for those. What kind of other data are you pulling from the truck? How does the ECT/EOT look?
What are the best things to do to make this truck reliable??
Give us a call 859-737-4966.
Aside from calling Thoroughbred Diesel for expert advice, I personally recommend replacing the OEM and troublesome EGR cooler with a new, updated and more robust version. Replace the oil cooler, replace the water pump and hoses (cooling system is very important on these trucks!), replace the OEM radiator (the crimped on plastic end tanks leak), have the truck studded - and while it's being studded MAKE SURE you have a machine shop machine and check the heads. When putting it all back together, disassemble the turbo and clean the unison ring/VGT vanes, flush the coolant, add a coolant filter, and change the oil with a good synthetic (I like Schaeffer's). Last, the cherry on top is a quality monitor like an Edge CTS3.
I’m sorry but You look like Mike pence 😂 your very knowledgeable and informative thank you
You're welcome!
Everything eventually needs both minor and major maintenance. Ford’s engine cab design is terrible, along with Ford designing in specialty tools everywhere possible. So for me it’s an immediate pass on anything that’s tough to work on.
I had a 2004 2wd 6.0 Excursion. It was an awesome truck. Literally 26 mpg at 75 mph. And it would pull our toy hauler, 9,000- 10,000 like it wasn’t even there. Awesome truck when it worked, EGR went out at around 25k , under warranty. Then at around 120k 3 injectors failed. My friend owned a car transport company and had several 6,0 service trucks for his big rig fleet. And everyone of them went through EGR’s, water pumps, turbos, injectors.
My 2006 crew cab Lariat has 143000 miles. I guess that's kind of low, will never sell it.
I bought a 450 last June & haven't gotten to drive it a week straight yet!
It's a Tow truck so I had to fix the boom on the back the first time it was in the shop then the ipr valve & high pressure oil pump failed.. finally saved the money to get that fixed after a couple months then now it has excessive blow by 😔🥺.. where can I find a "reliable" 6.0 engine? I need one bad. Please help
We offer drop in engines. Give us a call at 859-737-4966.
Looking at a 06 with 170k miles. Was told the engine light is on because of egr replacement 2 years ago. Kinda worrying me. Not looking to add any power to it just be a work truck
Take it to your local mechanic to scan the code.
My husband recently purchased a great condition 2005 f250 and is having a small issue with the hauling part of the wiring 🤷🏻♀️ ,not too sure what is the correct term for it, but is this something common among these vehicles?
I’m thinking that you are talking about the 7 way hookup for the trailer lights? If you have a circuit of that that is giving you problems make sure to check all fuses.
Really like these vids. Keep em coming!
On coolant temperature what should be normal operating temperature? An loaded pulling gooseneck?
Help pls . I have a 2004 ford excursion 6.0 turbo diesel limited. I was driving up hill towing a dump trailer, and then my engine started overheating, it started spewing white smoke out the exhaust when ever I pressed the accelerator. I got it towed home and started working on it, but to a crank no start …any help.pls
This is going to be a pretty complex failure that will need to be identified by a trained mechanic. I wouldn’t do too much cranking on that engine because you have had coolant in the cylinders (evident by the white smoke) and could run the risk of hydrolocking the engine.