Another good job by all of you. I am from upstate NY and know much of the area you work in. Sylvan Beach to Pulaski. I started out with PM Piper my brother and Barry Kirch. KJR Construction. Now after years, I still run my own business here in Delaware but miss those wonderful times in central NY. Thanks for all you do. Jeff V
I have worked on construction all my life, now retired, and really enjoy your videos. Do you make the bevel for the OH door 12"-4" to allow for the door frame and shimming? You mentioned 41" for the 36" door. Never too old to learn new tricks. Are you in area that gets much cold weather.
Yes what’s holding the structure to the concrete unless the rebar is epoxied in. We always have our vertical rebar tied and poured with the slab. On the rare cases where a vertical is needed it is always drilled and epoxied.
My father in law was an excellent mason, watching you work reminds me of him. Skillful and efficient with every move laying up block! Nice job in all facets of this project.
Great work..... My question is what do you use on the inside (middle) of the pour to use as a guide for your initial screed?? Thanks.... Would you travel to Jay?
Great job! What would be average cost for this job across the country, including grading and forms? I am in Southern Alabama if that makes a difference
Very professional but cool and laid back. No stress working for you...but I am sure you have some times when things can get crazy. Just some quick questions about the depth of the outer footer for the block. Is that deep enough? You are in the North right? Any problem with freeze/thaw and the slab lifts? I know you cut some stress lines in the slab to help with cracking. Where I live in the mountains of western NC we have to sink the footer in a slab/stem wall build at least 20 to 24 inches and then build a stem wall out of block like you did. Just curious about your build. Thanks for a great video! See ya in the next one.
Do you ever get to the last block and it just doesnt fit? I know, pros dont screw up, but Im honestly wandering if it still happens when you have your level of experience.
@@michaelboyer4037 These mono slabs are considered floating slabs. You can put foam around them and frost protect them also. Good base and drainage is the key. Dry soil does not freeze and heave.
Nice. I need to pour my slab this summer before I build walls. Have timber frame pavilion on block piers. Insulating under the masonry floor too. Laying slate flag stone over the concrete. Gotta put in radon vent still too. But only building a 24x24 section at a time anyways.
How come you don’t tie your rebar going around the edges? We do it here it’s code and 666wire on such a nice slab why not 444? Must be your state allows it nice job
Thats just how I build garages, I did see you used a 8" block I think, I use 6" so the bottom plate 2x6 covers the entire block and use Rawls with a head to lock the block down one for every block, did do one with 2 for every block but that was a 3 course on one of mine and filled every one, did this with super strong walls and roof for over head crane.
I noticed you lay the block in from the edge of the slab 1” or so. Wondered what the reason for that. Why not lay it flush with edge of slab. Good Job!!
He discussed this in the video. He makes the slab 1" bigger in all directions so he has a little wiggle room to get the block exactly square and to the exact size of the building.
I want to build like this but was told NY code requires frost protection for anything over 600 sq ft. I looked up the NY residential building code and this seems true. Have you ever run into that? This is sort of in your area (a little east of Syracuse). Can do a frost protected shallow foundation, but this building will be unheated storage so I was hoping to avoid that cost and extra excavation.
If they want rest protection then just put 2' foam along the edge of the slab. Depending where you are it should be 16" along the outside put in vertically. You can instal this after the slab is poured. Dig it out with a mini excavator. We have done this for double wide trailer slabs where they require frost protection.
Dumb question, how does this deal with frost? There's no footing, etc. Is there a square foot limitation for this kind of foundation? I assume this is only to code for certain building types
Hey in your opinion how would this work for a VersaTube type building to help block water ingress ? and also be able to backfilled around it to provide for better water run off?
@@ericwotton2046 definitely not easier to have taller walls. It would be 100 times easier to builder a taller stick frame wall off the cement pad. Now they have to lift the walls onto the block wall. If doing this for height, not easier lol. For water reasons, its great.
My big question with zero experience, how important is it to put stone under your slab? My personal opinion is it doesn’t matter, but all my buddies say spend $6000 on stone.
It's a capillary break and helps prevent moisture weeping up through the concrete. Obviously not needed for an outside driveway or sidewalk, but IMO an absolute must for any area that's enclosed.
Acceptable for that use but slab on grade and cinder blocks are structure and earth specific. Also that mesh holed the vapor barrier..... a lot. The earth pumps water vapor every day even in dry climates. I wish I didn't know this.
That monolithic slab would not pass inspection in my town. We are required to dig a 2’ trench on undisturbed soil, lay in the required rebar and install tie rebar from the footing into the slab if it is monolithic. The vapor barrier cannot be under the footing. You cant pour your footing until the inspector signs off. The footing width is determined by the width of the load bearing wall that will be on top of it. Where are the foundation wall anchors? The block has to be anchored to the footing at specific distances and the corners.
Guys why you didnt overlap the metalic squares and not put nothing under it to keep it at least half a inch from the plastic ? Not good slab i would say will crack where the reinforcements didnt overlap.😢
Thanks for the comment. We clearly pulled the wire up into the slab. We have great success with these slab and have poured 100's of them with no cracking as long as there is a good base of stone and or gravel under it.
Why the block on slab?Build can easily be done without.Thickened edge slab only needed.Here you be flagged, block has to be full pumped.That would have been a block wall with full mud and steel on a 18-24'' footer then slab poured in between with thermal break.Or just the Mono,which is fine for that site as its finished above grade.
Hi bondo, I don't know if you have noticed, especially in this video. The guys are not pulling the wire all the time. Watch the video closely anyway. Great videos
As a retired SoCal contractor, you could only pour without a full footing the way this job has been done. If you don’t have a permit, this would never pass any kind of inspection here all the rebar verticals coming out would have to be tied into the footing rebar you’d have to have a bond beam along the top and fill every cell of the block. Someone’s gonna pull in this garage and barely tap into the wall. It’s all gonna fall over.
Did you ever think or realize that SoCal builds differently due to seismic activity that the rest of the Country doesn't deal with ? It's one of the reasons it costs sooooo much more to build out there.
What a crappy slab. Couldn’t even bother to tie the rebar together. Hoping to maybe get the wire mesh pulled up into the concrete which never works. Joints not taped on the poly. Only a thickened edge around the slab, no real weight bearing footing. Hate to see this slab in twenty years. Spent 50 years in the building trades. Not sure where this took place, but I can’t think of a single place that any building inspector would pass that slab.
You are a good example of how concrete jobs should get done. I really enjoy seeing craftsman doing good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@douglasb8558 thank you Douglass. 😊
Hi, I might want to do that some day, if the money's there. Good job, I enjoyed watching!
Nice work Bondo. You and the crew do a great job!
Nothing better than having a happy customer and getting paid! Nice job.
Wire mesh is useless unless it’s pulled up properly
I like it, maybe next deer season you can look at my place, I need to pour a slab like this, maybe a little smaller, not sure yet. Love it.
Nice block laying job well done.
Another good job by all of you. I am from upstate NY and know much of the area you work in. Sylvan Beach to Pulaski. I started out with PM Piper my brother and Barry Kirch. KJR Construction. Now after years, I still run my own business here in Delaware but miss those wonderful times in central NY. Thanks for all you do. Jeff V
I like the way you did this slab. I purchased a new Woodmizer sawmill. Now, I need to build a shed 16x32 to put it in. This gave me an idea. Thanks!
You guys do awesome work.❤🍻🇺🇸
That's how we do it!! ❤ enjoy your videos.
Glad you like it!
Nice work as Always. Great to watch a video with my morning Coffees ! ☕️🇨🇦
I have worked on construction all my life, now retired, and really enjoy your videos. Do you make the bevel for the OH door 12"-4" to allow for the door frame and shimming? You mentioned 41" for the 36" door. Never too old to learn new tricks. Are you in area that gets much cold weather.
I wish I could find skilled concrete folks where I live...
Where do you live?
Would have liked to see a detail section of the block/concrete/rebar/anchor bolt.
Yes what’s holding the structure to the concrete unless the rebar is epoxied in. We always have our vertical rebar tied and poured with the slab. On the rare cases where a vertical is needed it is always drilled and epoxied.
Your block laying skills are top flight................ like everything else you and your crew do!
My father in law was an excellent mason, watching you work reminds me of him. Skillful and efficient with every move laying up block! Nice job in all facets of this project.
You're The Man! You made that wall look like a piece of cake... I bet you are in a million block club Nice work man... Quality from the jump. 😋👌
Good looking slab and blocks. Should make a great garage. I like these monolithic slabs.
Great work..... My question is what do you use on the inside (middle) of the pour to use as a guide for your initial screed?? Thanks.... Would you travel to Jay?
Body by biscuits sounds like a great name for a vhs tape workout video
It's big biscuit friend do not disrespect the man
@karleck1119 dont take things so seriously life's to short
@josephallman8279 thank you friend
great work Bondo and crew!
Looking good as always…
Great job! What would be average cost for this job across the country, including grading and forms?
I am in Southern Alabama if that makes a difference
Bondo hope u n the Crew r doing good. Looks Good Thank You for the Video.🤙🔥🇺🇸
Nice job yes those pole barns would not pass in oz, very nice slab,
New York sits on bedrock so yes their building requirements are less that other states
With current -0 temps it is nice to see warm weather, if only on a video.
Nice work guys…
Turned out awesome!
Very professional but cool and laid back. No stress working for you...but I am sure you have some times when things can get crazy. Just some quick questions about the depth of the outer footer for the block. Is that deep enough? You are in the North right? Any problem with freeze/thaw and the slab lifts? I know you cut some stress lines in the slab to help with cracking. Where I live in the mountains of western NC we have to sink the footer in a slab/stem wall build at least 20 to 24 inches and then build a stem wall out of block like you did. Just curious about your build. Thanks for a great video! See ya in the next one.
Do you ever get to the last block and it just doesnt fit? I know, pros dont screw up, but Im honestly wandering if it still happens when you have your level of experience.
Is the drilled in rebar epoxied into the slab or just the liquid from the snots oozed in?
you have assembled a mighty crew. how long has everyone been with you?
I do have a question. In a cold climate like upstate NY, with deep soil frost lines, how do you prevent frost heaving damage without a deep footer?
@@michaelboyer4037 These mono slabs are considered floating slabs. You can put foam around them and frost protect them also. Good base and drainage is the key. Dry soil does not freeze and heave.
Nice. I need to pour my slab this summer before I build walls. Have timber frame pavilion on block piers. Insulating under the masonry floor too. Laying slate flag stone over the concrete. Gotta put in radon vent still too. But only building a 24x24 section at a time anyways.
That is going to be a very nice project!
Love your videos!!!
Can this setup with block on a mono slab be used for a room addition on the back of a house?
Nice looking job.
Thank you!
Looks great!
Will the shed be a 2x6 wall construction style?
Nice work
Hi Ron and guys and roe.just wondering how many years slinging mud.nice job to everyone 😊
Been slinging mud for a long time.
How come you don’t tie your rebar going around the edges? We do it here it’s code and 666wire on such a nice slab why not 444? Must be your state allows it nice job
Nic work!
Thats just how I build garages, I did see you used a 8" block I think, I use 6" so the bottom plate 2x6 covers the entire block and use Rawls with a head to lock the block down one for every block, did do one with 2 for every block but that was a 3 course on one of mine and filled every one, did this with super strong walls and roof for over head crane.
I noticed you lay the block in from the edge of the slab 1” or so. Wondered what the reason for that. Why not lay it flush with edge of slab. Good Job!!
He discussed this in the video. He makes the slab 1" bigger in all directions so he has a little wiggle room to get the block exactly square and to the exact size of the building.
Which of the rebar was actual rebar all the way down into the slab, and which was J hooks, and why?
Does seem like a pretty sweet and easy foundation
Nice job
nice work
What are your thoughts on dry stacking blocks and parging with that Surface Bonding Cement?
@@DeadStump1 ua-cam.com/video/ZKA2uy7bk0U/v-deo.htmlsi=xGzkfzATCIERN5U1
@@DeadStump1 I think it works good as we did it on this garage repair.
nice work ron
Thank you kindly
Nice job guys!
Do you ever wet set block when pouring slab
I want to build like this but was told NY code requires frost protection for anything over 600 sq ft. I looked up the NY residential building code and this seems true. Have you ever run into that? This is sort of in your area (a little east of Syracuse). Can do a frost protected shallow foundation, but this building will be unheated storage so I was hoping to avoid that cost and extra excavation.
If they want rest protection then just put 2' foam along the edge of the slab. Depending where you are it should be 16" along the outside put in vertically. You can instal this after the slab is poured. Dig it out with a mini excavator. We have done this for double wide trailer slabs where they require frost protection.
@ so just vertical foam, no horizontal wing foam?
@ Check with your building inspector. on foam requirements but we just need 16" vertical for double wide slabs and some heated garages.
@ ok, thanks!
Dumb question, how does this deal with frost? There's no footing, etc. Is there a square foot limitation for this kind of foundation? I assume this is only to code for certain building types
How thick will the slab be to hold the weight of vehicles? 🚗
484 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🤗
What part of the country are u in? Freezing area?Thanks
@@nannamoonpiee yes upstate New York
Thanks Bondo!
Hey in your opinion how would this work for a VersaTube type building to help block water ingress ? and also be able to backfilled around it to provide for better water run off?
Enjoyable video as per usual 👍
Hope this helps with the algorithm 😂
How come you have to dig below frost line for piers but you don’t have any requirements for slabs?
epoxy on the rebar inserts?
I would always run a pipe for future water, and a drain pipe. Just in case you want to add a sink
What is the reasoning for the block wall? So you're not rotting the sill plate?
I would say so. Keeps the rain and moisture off the bottom of the wall assembly. Also makes it easier to have tall ceilings assell.
@@ericwotton2046 definitely not easier to have taller walls. It would be 100 times easier to builder a taller stick frame wall off the cement pad. Now they have to lift the walls onto the block wall. If doing this for height, not easier lol. For water reasons, its great.
Awesome
ever use 1 1/8" ply panels for walls?
My big question with zero experience, how important is it to put stone under your slab? My personal opinion is it doesn’t matter, but all my buddies say spend $6000 on stone.
Is helps get rid of the water, spend the money!
It's a capillary break and helps prevent moisture weeping up through the concrete. Obviously not needed for an outside driveway or sidewalk, but IMO an absolute must for any area that's enclosed.
@ thank you for the response. Slabs already poured $6000 in stone $500 in plastic 72 yard pour this thing better outlast me.
The best part of the job - " customer is real happy and he paid me!"
Why don't the customers not core fill everything I see some people do it and y'all don't I'm curious if it's purely a cost factor?
hope I can do my job as nice
Looks like it’s not your first rodeo
👍👍
Acceptable for that use but slab on grade and cinder blocks are structure and earth specific. Also that mesh holed the vapor barrier..... a lot. The earth pumps water vapor every day even in dry climates. I wish I didn't know this.
That monolithic slab would not pass inspection in my town. We are required to dig a 2’ trench on undisturbed soil, lay in the required rebar and install tie rebar from the footing into the slab if it is monolithic. The vapor barrier cannot be under the footing. You cant pour your footing until the inspector signs off. The footing width is determined by the width of the load bearing wall that will be on top of it. Where are the foundation wall anchors? The block has to be anchored to the footing at specific distances and the corners.
Knocking it out!
“Buddy, it’s beer thirty!” 😂
love it
That's how we do it!
😊😊😊😊
👏👏👏👏
💪
Hi👍👍😎😎😎🙂🙂❤️
Guys why you didnt overlap the metalic squares and not put nothing under it to keep it at least half a inch from the plastic ? Not good slab i would say will crack where the reinforcements didnt overlap.😢
Thanks for the comment. We clearly pulled the wire up into the slab. We have great success with these slab and have poured 100's of them with no cracking as long as there is a good base of stone and or gravel under it.
Where is Clifford lately?
.....comment....🤩
well you work hard but set the block up before you even start with mortar pans or you will kill your back trust me on that lol
Injoy
Why the block on slab?Build can easily be done without.Thickened edge slab only needed.Here you be flagged, block has to be full pumped.That would have been a block wall with full mud and steel on a 18-24'' footer then slab poured in between with thermal break.Or just the Mono,which is fine for that site as its finished above grade.
I bet 75% of the wire mesh is sat on the membrane!!!
Bondo rocks
U should probably keep your shirt on. When you are working on a costumers house.
👍
Bad job of pulling the wire mesh
Hi bondo, I don't know if you have noticed, especially in this video. The guys are not pulling the wire all the time. Watch the video closely anyway. Great videos
That's what they did the most of.
279 views in 25 mins. Hell ya!!
Thanks Matt
As a retired SoCal contractor, you could only pour without a full footing the way this job has been done. If you don’t have a permit, this would never pass any kind of inspection here all the rebar verticals coming out would have to be tied into the footing rebar you’d have to have a bond beam along the top and fill every cell of the block. Someone’s gonna pull in this garage and barely tap into the wall. It’s all gonna fall over.
LOL NOT! From what I’ve seen of So Cal masonry work, none of you should be giving advice to anyone!
Did you ever think or realize that SoCal builds differently due to seismic activity that the rest of the Country doesn't deal with ?
It's one of the reasons it costs sooooo much more to build out there.
Amen to that brother! You’ll never see more cutting corners than some of the Cali hack builds. Inspectors are likely paid off.
An Easy Knot for Stringlines: ua-cam.com/video/PcThHlo0-EU/v-deo.html
Man door women cannot use it! Known as a service door Bondo
🇦🇺👀 👍🏽
What a crappy slab. Couldn’t even bother to tie the rebar together. Hoping to maybe get the wire mesh pulled up into the concrete which never works. Joints not taped on the poly. Only a thickened edge around the slab, no real weight bearing footing. Hate to see this slab in twenty years.
Spent 50 years in the building trades. Not sure where this took place, but I can’t think of a single place that any building inspector would pass that slab.
Hi what ever.