I think it is important to back butter the tile in order to get 100% grab. Once you place the tile on the wall, slightly move the tile left and right or up and down to spread.
Ha I like how shes says: "check out how different this looks" as opposed to check out how good this looks with these tiny pieces of tile on the ends like I said not to do in the previous video.
Too many steps have been missed in this tutorial. These tiles are too large and heavy not to be back buttered. In addition they should be washed before thin set is applied. The tile will literally suck the moisture out of the mortar. When the back buttered tile is applied, it should be moved slightly when set to the wall. This allows for the best adhesion. We are looking for 100% coverage. There is a high possibility that these tiles will literally fall off the wall, if this technique is used.
She shouldn't have screwed into it at all.. you can run a laser and make that adjustment right off the get go. It's a good idea but NOT on a waterproof membrane. It would have to be patched.
@@TheGuruStud silicone a fixture does not make that application waterproof lol what so ever tiles and grout are pourus and will always be wet behind the tile. Hence why you either use a fabric waterproofing like Schluters or roll on membrane like redgard or AquaDefense. I rip showers out constantly 90% are due to the rotting from not being waterproofed. TTMAC provides industry standards on wet applications which can easily be found online and HOW they should properly be done.. this can also be used to sue a contractor neglecting to waterproof such wet applications.
Regarding tile layout I noticed that there is a skinny tile on the right side and a larger tile on the left - I am thinking that good design would have made them equal on both sides, that skinny tile really looks crappy.
Rozzalin Muhammad , I noticed it also, what else can be done?? The length of the tile is given, the length of the wall is given, the running bond layout is given as well. can someone explain how to achieve symmetrical spacing and avoiding less than 2” on the inseams?
Wrong wet applications need 90% coverage back buttering should be done to make sure you achieve this. This looks like this was waterproofed with a 2 ply roll on membrane which is also needed in a wet application. Schluter is also another one faster install and less down time then the roll on membrane.
Not near enough thinset either. When she pulled that tile off to look at the back, the entire back of it should have been covered. The grooves created in the thin set should folder over and fill the space between when the tile is set in place. This creates complete coverage on the back of the tile. The only reason the grooved trowel is used is to establish a consistent thin set depth.
The only thing that I would say might need to be corrected is that the vast majority of videos that I've watched and sites that I've visited say to notch the thinset horizontally, not vertically. That way, if any moisture does happen to get back there it can't drip down throughout the length of the wall inside the grooves. Otherwise, this is a great video.
You just created a mold sandwich. You never water proof both sides of the backer board. If moister gets in it can't escape. this will speed up wood rot and mold growth. I personally prefer 2 coats of red guard on the out side
+6btholac Clearly you are not following along... There is no wood that the mold you are referring about will get to, since the hardibacker is waterproof on both sides. But if it wasn't waterproofed on the back side, then there is your wood you are talking about, that you are letting the moisture get to. So which method is the mold sandwich now, yours or the video? Mold needs three things, air, moisture and organic matter, the hardi is not organic, and shouldn't grow mold, although it could happen from household "dust". As for the moisture not been able to escape, did the whole it entered from got magically plugged all the sudden, and if it did, then the first needed element is out? I agree that generally you want to create breathable environment for a house in order to avoid moisture and condensation problems, but I disagree in this instance, where you want to double and triple waterproof it...
I use a different combination, according to the type of backer board available. I really like to put 30 lb felt paper behind my cement board, I also like to silicone over my screw heads. This was taught to me by a professional I used to help, before I started my own business. I don't do a lot of tile work, I subcontract I out in most cases. But, certain homeowners want the main contractor there, through all important parts of a remodel, so I use the felt paper behind the board for. Vapor barrier more or less. Then I use the silicone over the screw heads, and I tape and glue the gaps were the backer board meets. This, in my mind keeps all the moisture, to the outside of the cement board. The felt paper is really just a last resort to stop the vapors. It has more resistance than 4 mil plastic. Not really sure I im just applying overkill, but, in my eyes, the main thing is long term results. I've had my own business for 7 years, and (knock on wood) have never had to go back to a finished job yet, other than to do new work. I started my business when I was 29! So long term is important to me. Because, I plan on being in business a while. Im a roofer, and drywaller, so, you can understand my position on keeping water out😁
Gene Neill , Moisture behind the tile, is what l am not supposed to let happen in the first place.... if it does, the only hope l would have is that my moisture proof membrane will make sure it doesn’t cause structural damage to what is behind it. ( i.e., Walls, studs, the rest of it ). It is supposed to be done as a “waterproof” ( not water-resistance system). And, now l understand how important each step of a tile job truly is.
Yes, I use 30lb felt paper as a moisture proof membrane. Really for the vapors. And, my job is most definitely keeping the water on the tile side of the the wall. Never do you want water to get to the backside, for one. The tub I just tiled, has a 20amp and 15 amp breakers running to it. The 20 is for the motor for the Jets, the 15 is for the in line heater. Both are ran to GFCI outlets, but never do we want water back there, causing trouble
Don't use a stupid ledger board, just start on the first row. Mark a line smaller than the tile so you have the largest cut piece at the ceiling you can. Or at very least waterproof the holes you made with the acrews.never set 12"x24" tile on a brick pattern set it on 70/30 ( stagger 1/3 of the tile. Yes, trowel 1 direction but do it on the back of the tile, not the wall. Flat trowel it on then knock it. Finally, don't ever listen to a box hardware store on how to do anything
Eww! Commercial work looks crappy, those corners are horrible, won't take such..always even the the tile by doing a good math from the center..Nice tiles though 🙄
I think it is important to back butter the tile in order to get 100% grab. Once you place the tile on the wall, slightly move the tile left and right or up and down to spread.
Ha I like how shes says: "check out how different this looks" as opposed to check out how good this looks with these tiny pieces of tile on the ends like I said not to do in the previous video.
Really nicely done video
wow you sure make that look easier
Wait... Aren't you supposed to move the tiles in the opposing direction of the trowl lines to break down the thinset?
Too many steps have been missed in this tutorial. These tiles are too large and heavy not to be back buttered. In addition they should be washed before thin set is applied. The tile will literally suck the moisture out of the mortar. When the back buttered tile is applied, it should be moved slightly when set to the wall. This allows for the best adhesion. We are looking for 100% coverage.
There is a high possibility that these tiles will literally fall off the wall, if this technique is used.
Shouldn't the holes you put into your water barrier when you put the support board on be filled and resealed? That should have been made clear.
Ron Menninga Is the dummy
Nope, doesn't matter. You're supposed to silicone around the fixtures.
She shouldn't have screwed into it at all.. you can run a laser and make that adjustment right off the get go. It's a good idea but NOT on a waterproof membrane. It would have to be patched.
@@TheGuruStud silicone a fixture does not make that application waterproof lol what so ever tiles and grout are pourus and will always be wet behind the tile. Hence why you either use a fabric waterproofing like Schluters or roll on membrane like redgard or AquaDefense. I rip showers out constantly 90% are due to the rotting from not being waterproofed.
TTMAC provides industry standards on wet applications which can easily be found online and HOW they should properly be done.. this can also be used to sue a contractor neglecting to waterproof such wet applications.
Regarding tile layout I noticed that there is a skinny tile on the right side and a larger tile on the left - I am thinking that good design would have made them equal on both sides, that skinny tile really looks crappy.
you need to stager the seems
Have to agree small pieces on the ends look horrible there is a way to fix that it's called adjusting your Center starting point
Al B ,
Thanx for your reply, l asked how this can be solved for visual appearances. Now l know the term to use.
2:40 Big mistake leaving the small pieces on the edge.
GAH, I didn't see that at first view.. yeah, that looks bloody awfull.
At 2:42 you can see it 😖
I was just about to say that looks horrible. Looked down and first comment pointed it out as well
Ew. You're right.
Rozzalin Muhammad ,
I noticed it also, what else can be done?? The length of the tile is given, the length of the wall is given, the running bond layout is given as well.
can someone explain how to achieve symmetrical spacing and avoiding less than 2” on the inseams?
I don't get that waterproofing paint. How is the thin set supposed to adhere to the cement board with that barrier?
Wrong wet applications need 90% coverage back buttering should be done to make sure you achieve this. This looks like this was waterproofed with a 2 ply roll on membrane which is also needed in a wet application. Schluter is also another one faster install and less down time then the roll on membrane.
Where can we get the shower pan? custom size.
What is the specific wall tile color at Lowes? I like it and think it would work in a bathroom.
Thanks for your question, Markita! I don’t have the specific item #, but check out some of our white shower tile options here: low.es/2y1dMv6
I need a vid for Fiberglass surrounding.
Not near enough thinset either. When she pulled that tile off to look at the back, the entire back of it should have been covered. The grooves created in the thin set should folder over and fill the space between when the tile is set in place. This creates complete coverage on the back of the tile. The only reason the grooved trowel is used is to establish a consistent thin set depth.
The only thing that I would say might need to be corrected is that the vast majority of videos that I've watched and sites that I've visited say to notch the thinset horizontally, not vertically. That way, if any moisture does happen to get back there it can't drip down throughout the length of the wall inside the grooves. Otherwise, this is a great video.
so can i stick them on with peanut butter?
Tile Fixer we're going to stick with using thinset in a peanut butter consistency vs. the real thing. But hey, you do you. Thanks for watching.
Lowe's Home Improvement 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
You just created a mold sandwich. You never water proof both sides of the backer board. If moister gets in it can't escape. this will speed up wood rot and mold growth. I personally prefer 2 coats of red guard on the out side
+6btholac Clearly you are not following along... There is no wood that the mold you are referring about will get to, since the hardibacker is waterproof on both sides. But if it wasn't waterproofed on the back side, then there is your wood you are talking about, that you are letting the moisture get to. So which method is the mold sandwich now, yours or the video? Mold needs three things, air, moisture and organic matter, the hardi is not organic, and shouldn't grow mold, although it could happen from household "dust". As for the moisture not been able to escape, did the whole it entered from got magically plugged all the sudden, and if it did, then the first needed element is out? I agree that generally you want to create breathable environment for a house in order to avoid moisture and condensation problems, but I disagree in this instance, where you want to double and triple waterproof it...
I use a different combination, according to the type of backer board available. I really like to put 30 lb felt paper behind my cement board, I also like to silicone over my screw heads. This was taught to me by a professional I used to help, before I started my own business. I don't do a lot of tile work, I subcontract I out in most cases. But, certain homeowners want the main contractor there, through all important parts of a remodel, so I use the felt paper behind the board for. Vapor barrier more or less. Then I use the silicone over the screw heads, and I tape and glue the gaps were the backer board meets. This, in my mind keeps all the moisture, to the outside of the cement board. The felt paper is really just a last resort to stop the vapors. It has more resistance than 4 mil plastic. Not really sure I im just applying overkill, but, in my eyes, the main thing is long term results. I've had my own business for 7 years, and (knock on wood) have never had to go back to a finished job yet, other than to do new work. I started my business when I was 29! So long term is important to me. Because, I plan on being in business a while. Im a roofer, and drywaller, so, you can understand my position on keeping water out😁
How is moisture behind the tile supposed to escape when there is caulk sealing the bottom? Seems like any water back there is there forever.
Gene Neill ,
Moisture behind the tile, is what l am not supposed to let happen in the first place.... if it does, the only hope l would have is that my moisture proof membrane will make sure it doesn’t cause structural damage to what is behind it.
( i.e., Walls, studs, the rest of it ). It is supposed to be done as a “waterproof” ( not water-resistance system).
And, now l understand how important each step of a tile job truly is.
Yes, I use 30lb felt paper as a moisture proof membrane. Really for the vapors. And, my job is most definitely keeping the water on the tile side of the the wall. Never do you want water to get to the backside, for one. The tub I just tiled, has a 20amp and 15 amp breakers running to it. The 20 is for the motor for the Jets, the 15 is for the in line heater. Both are ran to GFCI outlets, but never do we want water back there, causing trouble
I didn't like the way the corners looked but great job overall.
Marilyn k,
very good jab I am tile fixer in k s a
Wow. She s good. I need bathroom remodel.
After 4 years at Penn State College of building Construction, she should be this good
i love handy women
Hope the last video is her showering.
You don’t really think she installed them with those clothes on do you?
Oh yeah, don't ever use a drill to mix grout do it by hand only
nice mam
i kind of liked the pink bathroom more actually.
these short videos are great for people like me who have ADD and wan... ooo whats that?
Coverage of the tile was 50% which isnt good
Best
Don't use a stupid ledger board, just start on the first row. Mark a line smaller than the tile so you have the largest cut piece at the ceiling you can. Or at very least waterproof the holes you made with the acrews.never set 12"x24" tile on a brick pattern set it on 70/30 ( stagger 1/3 of the tile. Yes, trowel 1 direction but do it on the back of the tile, not the wall. Flat trowel it on then knock it. Finally, don't ever listen to a box hardware store on how to do anything
Красотка..
I like the pink, but I'm a girl. If I lived there by myself, I would have kept the pink😁
Dont be fooled 4 years at Penn College of Construction, and u can do this too
She can grout my tiles hue hue hue hue
i like how she just wears a normal shirt
Lol
There are so many things wrong with this.
Please don't install shower tile using this tutorial.
Allen Pautsch can you make a video and show us the right way
@@victorcastillo2544 there are 100s of videos on youtube showing the right way. This isn't one of them.
not properly installed
Eww! Commercial work looks crappy, those corners are horrible, won't take such..always even the the tile by doing a good math from the center..Nice tiles though 🙄
nothing better than having a 1 inch or 2 inch tile in the corner where everyone will notice it.......
Love the girl but she have no clue