Hangkai should be paying you for these excellent videos! I think Im the 100th person that bought one because of them, mine is on the way. Im cheap and love to tinker, need something for my little duck/river boat. Based on your user name, I think you may be to the north of me in Purdue country lol Thank you!
Yes, you’re correct. I picked that user name several years ago when working and needed something I could remember. I was making early training videos and discovered we could save and view via UA-cam. No idea at the time I’d have it tag along after retirement! Thanks for watching. Hope you enjoy your journey with the motor. I think it would work better on a hard shell boat. I lost a lot of thrust on the air filled raft…. A little risky on the Wabash.! But I had a lot of fun with it! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍
Very nice video. I ordered one of these motors a few days ago and today I've just been watching any videos I can find regarding it. If it wasn't for this video and one other I would have had no idea that you had to put the gear oil in it. I'm not expecting much from this motor, but, it should serve the purpose of this little 12 Ft. Boat project for my Daughter and I to play with in the local creeks. I Subscribed and looking forward to more videos. Very nicely done Sir.
i beileve the pinion gear assembly needs 1/3 space by volume for thermal expansion and contraction im guessing you been getting foam in your gear oil? this happens because when full it gets hot it will expand and excess will push past seal the when it cools if under water it will drawl a small amount in the reverse back past the seal from vacuum just thought i would contribute to your page as it is the best resource i have found and my motor just arrived im sure ill have some trouble. thanks for sharing
I should have listened to myself. Instinctively I knew... I even said on the video the line is probably the full mark. I will remove it to that line. Thanks for you help!
If you need to repair a thread in alloy you can get stainless 'Helicoils', fitted which are are like a spring thread which is inserted with a slotted tool into the stripped thread which has been threaded to the proper 'Helicoil' size. A little expensive but gives you a hard thread in the alloy. Check if the bolt holes go through into the gear case as if they do you might only have to remove the bolts to drain the oil, and fill from the bottom hole till oil comes out the top hole. Seems odd that you have to take the whole back plate off to change the oil as this is disturbing the seals and shaft bush. May be possible to modify to change oil more easily. Also check to see if the seals are the correct way round. I have a Chinese 'Sail' brand 15hp 2T (copy of a Yamaha 15 FMH) and it's been 100% reliable (4yrs so far) and runs as well as any other brand. The only problem is that the Chinese outboards are not made of marine grade alloy (probably ok in fresh water) but of alloy similar to car water pumps etc therefore needing more thorough flushing and using something like CRC 'Salt-Away (if used in the sea) can help prolong their life . They are a bit like the early US outboards like Mercs, West Bends, Chryslers etc which were fine in lakes but dissolved in sea water (you may have noticed that old outboards are generally lighter than new outboards of the same size,- I had a 60s 75hp Flying Scott which I could carry no problem, you wouldn't lift a modern 75hp,- much better alloy and casting methods). Never the less, for the price and with a few upgrades and mods the Chinese outboards are on the whole a good deal as you can buy 2 or 3 for the price of a Merc or Yamaha etc and parts are dirt cheap. If you consider that an outboard might only be used a few times a year and is quietly rotting away while in storage, it makes sense to go for a cheaper alternative and even buy another for a spare if you aren't going too far from shore. Interesting videos by the way, was thinking of getting a similar o/b to replace the Seagull (lighter quieter and cleaner) on my 15ft daysailer. Looked at Mercs etc but they are near to $1000 NZD, these are around $500 NZD.
Wow, thank you for taking the time to provide such good information. Eventually I might consider your idea for changing the gear oil without removing the main cover. Fortunatley, I live far far away from any ocean, so no salt water damage to contend with. Thanks again for taking the time to write and watch!
@@BoilerDan1 You are lucky having such great lakes to run on. Unfortunately our largest North Island lake -Lake Taupo, is in the middle of the North Island of NZ and about 200 miles away. There are a number of other large lakes (by NZ standards) in the North Island but also a similar distance away. The largest lakes are in the South Island, around 1000km away (including an approx 80km ferry trip), so being only about 500m from a boat ramp on the Hibiscus Coast ( Orewa Beach - E coast) in Auckland means it's the sea or a very long drive.
Yep good save on the stripped bolt! Using the old noggin! Keep up the great work Dan. Just got my HK 3.6. Two bills even online, plus a 3 year extended warranty through a major chain store for a few bucks more. (Don't know if that was smart on their part but time will tell! And I don't usually go for extended warranties but it seemed like a no brainer on this, and this store is usually good for it.) Bit of a pretty steep learning curve on that booger of a motor it seems! Subscribed and following along closely! Glad we have the luxury of your experiences cause I'm sure I would do worse due to lack of patience (and skill) sometimes. But I follow directions well if they are provided! (By you in this case!) 😁 TY! Bo in Upstate SC.👍👍 Edit: BTW it's funny the instruction book for the Hangkai 3.6 that comes with it (at least mine, that said "thank you for purchasing SPEEDA outboard motor" ???) start with the first page very well translated, and completely tank from there. Nonsensical after that to say the least. This clearly qualifies Dan as an "Essential Worker" if any crap hits the fan again!👊
I keep trying to get the family to move to SC! A couple of additional things: Just break the motor in on the water not a bucket! I kept adding snow to keep the water cool. The insulation idea failed as I think it held heat…. So don’t do that! You already learned that IT’s AN ALUMINUM BLOCK - Don’t over tighten! I’d definitely swap out the tension spring (hmmm…. Maybe not if it messes up your extended warranty?) Be prepared to probably replace the clutch every season or two. I think the motor itself is good…. It’s the little things that could be better… but I would do it all again as I enjoyed messing around with it! Thanks for watching and taking the time to provide feedback. Good luck with yours. I’ll be visiting SC in September. There’s a gift shop in Port Royal that sells wooden model ships that I make so I spend a few weeks vacationing in the area after I drop off some ships to Mrs B & Company.
@@BoilerDan1 Thank YOU for the reply and the additional info Dan. Some other comments: First, both of my brothers (both now passed) settled on Hilton Head and lived there for decades, which is only 30 miles or less as the crow flies from Port Royal. One of my sisters in law is still there and I have a niece in Savannah, so I am in that neck of the woods as often as possible. (I am in the Greenville area) I have been to Port Royal years ago and did the Parris Island tour which if they still do it, I recommend to anyone with any interest in our military. Hope you can talk the family into moving to SC! Though you probably won't be able to cool a break-in water bucket with snow! 😆 (Unless you are in the far NW mountainous corner of SC!) ***Now for the Hangkai 3.6. Shout out to all new owners like me, LISTEN to DAN and read comments! His info is invaluable up to and including his hand truck and 5 gal bucket initial break-in set-up. I will be attempting to replicate that ASAP just for the 1st start of the motor and verifying the initial functions. Would rather fool with 1st start at home, just me. The rest of the break-in will be on the lake. Maybe Dan or someone can help me share photos on here but during the process of adding gear oil, when taking the cover off (which I did as carefully as possible and had no trouble with) when I got it off the o-ring had a pretty substantial part (a half inch + curl) shaving off. I did not twist excessively while removing the cover. I may try initial start up and run a few minutes, then recheck the gear oil for water, but I will be in search of a new o-ring before launching. Next someone suggested taking the plastic cover and gasket off of the exhaust/cooling water ports. I did and It looked like the holes in the gasket were punched correctly, but believe it or not one of the holes in the motor shaft (top right hole of the 4) was way off center and totally blocked by the gasket. I cut the gasket so that is not an issue anymore, but then when inspecting the plastic cover before putting it back on I realized the one exhaust/water port at the bottom was about 80% blocked by plastic flashing! Would have been interesting when it started trying to pump water! I cut the flashing out with a razor blade so should be all good. Again I have photos if I knew how to post here. Anyone who wants to comment just buy a better motor, that would be easy but I would be missing out on the fun! (and I have the time...) I think Dan would agree. Thanks again and sorry for the long read! Bo in SC.
I enjoyed and appreciate your comments. Special note: If you do the “bucket break in be sure to keep cool water running in the bucket! Regarding travel: we go to Hilton Head at least twice a year. It’s our favorite area for FOOD!😂. I stumbled on Port Royal and that’s where my ships are sold 😎🏴☠️. I can’t really afford Hilton Head, but we can visit some. Savanna has great food too! Enjoy your adventure with your Hang-Kai 👍👍
Make sure when you do the break in that you have cool water circulation. My videos aren’t clear that I kept adding water or snow so that it didn’t overheat. Or break in on the lake, then no problem. Just don’t rush to full speed until well after break in.
@@BoilerDan1 hmm, it's good that you mention that.Thank you! I was just planing on doing the break-in with a single bucket of water. Maybe I can just run it at low speeds alongside my trolling motor so that I can at least get to where Im going. My 55lb trolling motor pushes my Tracker 1236 jon boat at some 2.5-4 mph, but the connections overheat with the corrossion from the salt water that I run it in. Don't worry, I will not run the hangkai in salt water primarily. And if I do I plan to hose the entire motor with fresh water as well as run it in a bucket with fresh water constantly being added for a few minutes. I really don't expect this motor to be reliable in any way. I'll soon buy a bigger motor, a Tohatsu or Mercury 6hp 4-stroke. I just can't spend that kind of money right now and damn it I wanna have some fun! So thank you China and thank you sir for making these videos!
You can just run a hose into the bucket! Maybe deflect the water coming back from the motor away from the bucket and turn the hose on enough to keep cool water supplied. I've had fun with mine and it seems to run better with age. Or like you said, run it when you are out on the water. Just vary your speed from time to time and don't full throttle for the break in period. Then run it as normal.... I did keep adjusting the speed after the initial break in because it would have a little kickback, never figured out why, but as time went by, the kickback stopped. I'll be back out in the spring!
I think I would also replace shear pins and cotter pins with stainless and grease them, Also a spare prop couldn't be expensive and I would get a couple extra fuel bottles and the premix already made. No filling a mix bottle from gas can on the boat.
Why do you say that, I thought it was working well for you? I just got mine today, runs fine when cold but after it warms up it keeps stopping if you give it a little gas. Restarts fine though.
on a past Merc 3.5, the shear pin would shear when putting the motor into gear or revving up. I just somehow happened to have a copper roofing nail on the sail boat (Hey, it's the ADHD.) Cut it to length and it fit right in. Never sheared after that. Sailors and farmers make good doctors, cause we can figure out things not seen before.!!
Hello BoilerDan1, I just bought a 4HP 4Stroke motor likes yours, opening the packing box found propeller gear box leaks oil( not too much), it that normal or need to be repaired ? Thank you.
I don’t think it should leak…. Unless you overfilled it? I think it would have a simple rubber O ring that would make the seal. There’s a grove that you fill up to, and there should be a little air inside the gear housing to allow the gear oil to expand when hotter. Hope that all makes sense?
I would Look at putting Nut inserts into "any/all stripped holes in Aluminum" Especially on any holes that get removal yearly or more. That way the repair is for Life, and it wont strip out ever again, as long as you dont crank down on it.
No nut Serts IMO. Use anti seize and do not over tighten the bolts. Torque specs for the size nuts and bolts can be looked up or if you have a machinist handbook they are there. Most people over tighten bolts thinking tight is right, in reality tight is tight, too tight is broke. Lol
And just for meanness, I would remove decals and replace with color fish decals (for me Redfish or Speckled Trout). Even meaner and worth a few $$$$, vinyl graphics harkening back to Tim The Toolman Taylor: I'd call it the Binford Hydro Turbo Magnum 8000. More Power using the Binford Logo.
I'm laughing out loud! I totally agree... I actually already removed the back one that say's 3.6 hp. I also named the raft: "MY DING-A-LINGY" But your idea for the Magnum 8,000 is great! I might go with Magnum 1,000 (0:
The space is 5"X3" but that is towards the back of the motor. same on the back. The spot where the decal is now is at an angle, so it is 3" high but slants downward to a taper from 5" down to 0"
I just bought a Hangkai 4 stroke 4 HP outboard. I filled the crankcase with oil. The motor smokes and oil leaks from carburetor. How much oil goes in crankcase? How do you read dip stick to see level?
I only have the two stroke. I decided on it because I have to lay the motor down. I had heard that with the 4 stroke, if you lay it on the wrong side it will do what you just explained. So first question is: 1. Did you lay it on it's side after putting oil in the crankcase? Sorry I can't help on the dip stick level question as I don't have the 4 stroke motor. But it sounds to me like you laid it down on the wrong side and the oil leaked into the engine cylinder/carb system. I be you will need to clean the spark plug too. Also, do you know to also put gear lube in the bottom area at the propeller? It is shipped empty, and if you don't fill that, you'll strip the gears at the propeller. See my video: ua-cam.com/video/NCALT3MKAEk/v-deo.html
I had similar issues. I think if it’s hot outside the engine gets warmer. The vacuum in the fuel tank is affected and pulls the fuel back, shutting it off for just a second…. Try loosening the gas cap a little to prevent the vacuum in the tank…. There’s a rubber valve in the top of the gas cap but it’s not very good. Thanks for watching, hope that helps 👍👍
I might add that I did try to stretch the fuel cap vent tube. Not sure how much it helped. I used a round wire, trying to open it more. You can see the valve on the underside of the gas cap.
I just purchased HANKAI 3.5HP outboard . My engine keeps turning off as soon as i lower the throttle what's wrong? Any idea I'm use same oil recommended for this motor ( oil mixture with fuel) I'm using 95 octane gasoline On full throttle it works perfectly fine but lowering turns it off what's wrong? Any help please
You might try loosening the fuel cap. I had a little problem with the venting of the tank not allowing it to vent. If that doesn’t work, maybe try adjusting the fuel mixture adjusting screws located behind the air filter. I posted a video on the vent problem, Here’s a link to that video. ua-cam.com/video/FaY2bPiWo_U/v-deo.html Your 3.5 is very similar to my 3.6, I’ve made several videos that might help you in your journey.... I’m no expert, just documenting my own issues with this motor! Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to the series: ua-cam.com/play/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm.html
Remove the black plastic exhaust port cap with one 5mm screw, check to see if the hole is drilled through at the bottom, if it isn't drill it right through, it causes rough idle when it is blocked, you will also find it will idle slightly higher it's OK as this exhaust port is suppose to be open. It's just a quality issue that it's not.
Actually I must admit I don't really know that the bolts are stainless steel? But your point is well made. Maybe take you advice regardless of what they are made of! Thanks for your input.
dan i have a question for you when i was running gas out to winterize it my clutch spring must have broke because prop spins all the time now my question is can i take it out next spring with a broken clutch and just let the prop spin doesnt seem to hurt it any and actualy sounds better but i dont want to ruin it being a year old
Roy, the concern might be having a piece of the spring mess something else up? But I also understand that you could idle down, then shut down at the shore or dock. But again, I think I would minimally open things up and remove the parts and pieces of the spring. Share how it all works out, I'm sure others would be interested.
@@BoilerDan1 come spring i will look at spring not sure if i am gonna replace it or just take out spring im kinda upset it has broke already it was running so good
I have seen where the spring just came undone! It will be interesting to see what it ends up being. I also agree that just removing the clutch springs and have prop move even at idle would be fine with me. I shut it down and coast to the shore anyway. Your also right about cutting down on noise. I can hear the clutch slipping and engaging too. Let me know how it goes this spring. I read somewhere???? That the clutch is can be replaced with another brand???? Maybe Yamaha? It was either on UA-cam or maybe eBay? You can have fun researching that over the winter 😳
My clutch went on my first engine. I wrote the manufacturer and they sent me a new clutch for free. Easy repair. Just unbolt the motor from the leg. Clutch is mounted to the motor. Make sure the cup it slips into is clean and not gouged.
Hi Dan, you sent me an email about the o ring...deleted i guess and i was wondering can I purchase just the o ring , that you pop off to put gear oil in?
Yes, I'm sure you can. I usually go to Ace Hardware for that type of thing... They seem to be extra helpful! But any hardware store PLUMING Department should have what you need. take the old one with you for them to match up with. Should be an easy fix under $2 Guessing,,,,
@@BoilerDan1 dan to clarify...the o ring is the metal piece that has two bolt that you take out to fill the gear oil? that is what i would like to replace its not a filter or gasket...but the hard cover over the gear oil
Actually an O ring is the round rubber gasket that seals the bolted part in place. The part you are describing is more major and would not be available anywhere I would know? I located a possible solution that might work. Check out the link below: www.ebay.com/itm/Hangkai-2-stroke-3-5HP-Outboard-Motor-engine-gear-box-propeller-water-pump-assy/273099121555?hash=item3f95f9e393:g:G3cAAOSwmRBalmfI
For small 2 strokers like this, skip Starbucks a couple of times, and "splurge" on premixed gas/oil from HD or Lowes. High octane. No Ethanol. Less end of season waste. Keep fresh, unopened cans on the boat. You'll be sending me flowers and Mrs. See's chocolates soon !!!!!
Does any-one have the lower gear case O-Ring part number or the model name for the original outboard engine the Hang-kai 3.6 was "inspired" on? My O-ring came botched from the factory and the e-bay seller hasn't been much help.
I have the company website. m.hang-kai.com/en/ It’s a little tricky to navigate, but in the upper right you can select language (English). In the upper left there are a series of horizontal lines with a drop down menu: Select “News” for some trouble shooting articles. There’s also a contact section that you might be able to ask for specific information about your O ring. Good luck👍 Thanks for watching my video, and using it to reach out to my audience for help.🧐
Insead of using the expensive oils just use car 20w 50 and don't fill it all the way up. The gearbox seals in these don't work very well and you just need to change the oil every time if there are, periods of non use.ps put some stainless steel spilt washers under the screws to stop them from vibrating loose.
@@BoilerDan1 yes Dan it's just a 90 degree gear and a brass bushing with an oil channel. I'm sure the Chinese don't buy marine grade grease in their local hardware shops.
@@BoilerDan1 OK no problem, I had my 2.2 hp Hagkai for a few years now. They were originally 2.2 hp by the way. It's had a propellor shaft seal problem all that time. I took it apart and noticed the shaft seal was rammed into the housing not square to the recess,this caused the seal to not be symmetrial to the shaft. I ordered another seal and knocked the other out. The recess walls had spray paint runs on it which also caused the seal to leak around the outside. I carefully removed the paint then reinserted the new seal with grease. The leak then moved to the oring joint between the gear case and the end cap, but the leak was less, noticed the oring was a bit flat on the outside and the oring Grove has got muck in it causing the oring to not seal well. I'd advise you to check these mentioned points and the motor will be more long lasting.
@@BoilerDan1 ps it is just a quality issue with how they are made it's not really a quality issue with the design as it's a fairly simple machine which is sometimes a good thing.
@@BoilerDan1 another thing is the fuel pipes going to the tank are some type of plastic that reacts to the tank bung which causes the tubes to harden and snap off inside the motor cover.
I damaged the oring around the bottom of the gear oil cover when I was trying to pry it up with my screwdriver, does anyone know where I can get a replacement?
I can only suggest taking the cover and damaged O ring to a Good hardware store or plumbing supply store. I’ve had some luck searching at Amazon, measure the O ring and search both Amazon and Google? Hope other viewers respond with better advice 😁 Thanks for watching 👍
I’m still thinking about the O ring. I looked it up on Amazon and it looks like three measurements are required! Maybe a plumbing supply can measure yours if they don’t have one? Anyway the needed measurements are: outside diameter, inside diameter and the thickness of the ring itself,. Not sure if that’s the tiny diameter or just across it?
The motor itself is good and solid (My opinion). Some of my video's deal with minor fixes and I will be making another video yet this summer with some minor tweaks I've completed. But no major motor/engine problems. Recently as an example, I had one of the shut off wires slip off of it's connection. Only needed to slid it back on and crimp it a little harder. Things like that will be covered in my next video update. But all in all, I'm very happy with the motor considering the cost out of pocket. But as stated in the past... It's slow, but I knew that when I purchased it.
I just used 10w40 synthetic motor oil... it rums way better and the reason you have water in your lower drive is because you overfilled it and didn’t leave room for oil expansion causing oil to seep out during operation and creating a vacuum on the lower while it’s sitting in the water during idle or cool down allowing water to enter past the oring... that’s bad
Yes, you are correct. Someone brought it to my attention previously and I've corrected it. I'm planning on a follow-up video to cover Q & A from other comments and questions I've received. I'll be sure to include your advice. Thanks
BoilerDan1 these little engines get a bad wrap, but for those of us that are mechanically inclined we know how to make them sing. Very simple and pretty reliable little engines.. air/fuel/water n she goes all day long. Keep up the good work sir, I’ll keep tuning in
I’d recommend taking it to a lawn mower repair shop or an Ace Hardware store and see if they can match the seal ring. You could also try to measure it yourself and then try eBay and Amazon.
@@N2GMoto if it’s not split or torn you can push it back in place. But if it’s out, you might take it somewhere and purchase a spare while you have it out. Hopefully you can find one. 👍
I Bought a Merc propane 5 horse OB. It runs great, but on my Highfield dinghy, it almost too heavy to pull up on the dinghy dock. Just bought one of these motors for its light weight. The instruction manual might have well been written in Chinese Hieroglyphic cuneiform. Thank you for your great video. It is certain that your saved me from making some big mistakes. I bet there would be a market for an individual fluent in Chinese (Mandarin, Cantonese) who could edit Chinese instruction manuals. Might be fun to read Chinese electronic sex toy manuals !!!
At an idle, most of it will come out a little hole where at speed, water for cooling the motor comes out. But once you accelerate, it comes out below the waterline just above the propeller.
Manufacturer recommends 90,. I did start with full synthetic that was 75-90 but switched back thinking maybe the heavier weight might be better for the simplicity of the gears used. Maybe another viewer can post a more expert response. I've run mine now for a little over 25 hours and everything is doing fine.
I’ve been using regular synthetic 10w40 motor oil on my 3.6 outboard for well over a year and it seems like it has more power.. that along with adjusting the carburetor made a world of difference... just my experience here
@@BoilerDan1 Yeah no problem. I have 4hp hangkai and apparently the bottom bolt on the lower unit is supposed to drain the oil and the top bolt is used to fill your gear oil.
If you Google Hangkai outboard motor parts you’ll get a list of several from eBay Amazon and more. Here’s what aliexpress offers: m.aliexpress.com/popular/hangkai-outboard-parts.html Here’s the manufacturer website too: m.hang-kai.com/en/ Click upper left lines and select news. It’s actually trouble shooting help. Click around on their page as it has several things…. Not marked well, probably due to translation. There’s a contact link too. Thanks again for watching 👍👍
I'm about as far away from sea water as possible, so I don't know the answer to that question. I have seen that some have had problems with the water cooling tubing corroding and that may have been due to salt water. Maybe check with some others on UA-cam that have videos similar. If you want my suggestion, maybe go with the air cooled model so you don't have that salt water cooling the motor.
that mistake is so common, so suggest just giving up. Don't get me started on past participles (I should have went, or you should have saw) or that prepositions/transitive verbs take objective pronouns...."Send my wife and ME the fax..." correct. NOT "my wife and I." drives me nuts. High falutin', pompous news casters started this 3rd grade grammar error 20 years ago. It has spread globally.
might add another 0 to your amount. If I were a serious fisher or boater, I would too. This is a fun project for me. I'll leave the serious boating to you. :0)
not meant to be insulting but per yours and others in-depth videos of this motor it seems to be a piece of junk. Honda sells a real 2.3 hp for 799.00. The Hangkai is $250.00 so for extra $550.00 I get more thrust and quality. Im trying to decide if it is worth the savings to put up with this engines shortcomings. I need the motor for a inflatable boat.
No offense taken. I'm just playing around with it. Mine is running better than I've implied. I've had it out a few times now. But yes, I agree, the Honda would be a good investment. I purchased mine mid-winter and it was less then $200, so I'm good. Thanks for watching and commenting. It will help others decide on a direction one way or another. So all is good.
Got mine for $150. Proper set up is important on any motor. Go heavy on the two cycle oil for at least the first tank of fuel. 30:1-25:1. Use 90 or xx/90 marine oil in the gear case. Synthetic isn't as important as changing the oil every 25 hours, or when putting the engine up at the end of boating season. Fog the engine when you put it up too. As for cheap Chinese, yes, replace the fuel lines and spark plug. You don't have to use Bee's wax. Paraffin wax works just as well ( old candle). No need to run high dollar fuel, just be aware that alcohol in the fuel will absorb water. Alcohol blended fuels will reduce the power, and will require a richer fuel setting. Never use old fuel that has alcohol in it. Alcohol causes gasoline to sour. Guaranteed to cause your engine to run like poop, if at all.
Yes, I finally figured that out. Thanks for watching and pointing that out. Hopefully others will see and not make the same mistakes that I did! I’m just learning as I go 👍👍
Looking good my friend! Great recovery on the stripped fastener 👍🏼
Can’t wait to see this thing pushing your raft !
Your Hangkai, looks similar to the 1999 Nissan 3.5 I just got. I have no user manual, and your video has been helpful.
Hangkai should be paying you for these excellent videos! I think Im the 100th person that bought one because of them, mine is on the way. Im cheap and love to tinker, need something for my little duck/river boat. Based on your user name, I think you may be to the north of me in Purdue country lol
Thank you!
Yes, you’re correct. I picked that user name several years ago when working and needed something I could remember. I was making early training videos and discovered we could save and view via UA-cam.
No idea at the time I’d have it tag along after retirement!
Thanks for watching. Hope you enjoy your journey with the motor. I think it would work better on a hard shell boat. I lost a lot of thrust on the air filled raft…. A little risky on the Wabash.! But I had a lot of fun with it!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍
Very nice video. I ordered one of these motors a few days ago and today I've just been watching any videos I can find regarding it. If it wasn't for this video and one other I would have had no idea that you had to put the gear oil in it. I'm not expecting much from this motor, but, it should serve the purpose of this little 12 Ft. Boat project for my Daughter and I to play with in the local creeks. I Subscribed and looking forward to more videos. Very nicely done Sir.
Thanks! I’ll look up some parts and send it in a reply to your second posting. 👍
i beileve the pinion gear assembly needs 1/3 space by volume for thermal expansion and contraction im guessing you been getting foam in your gear oil? this happens because when full it gets hot it will expand and excess will push past seal the when it cools if under water it will drawl a small amount in the reverse back past the seal from vacuum just thought i would contribute to your page as it is the best resource i have found and my motor just arrived im sure ill have some trouble. thanks for sharing
I should have listened to myself. Instinctively I knew... I even said on the video the line is probably the full mark. I will remove it to that line. Thanks for you help!
@@BoilerDan1 i made good?
ua-cam.com/video/WJ7-9g9tT2Y/v-deo.html
Sounds like a great tip. Tilt the motor OUT of the water after running.
If you need to repair a thread in alloy you can get stainless 'Helicoils', fitted which are are like a spring thread which is inserted with a slotted tool into the stripped thread which has been threaded to the proper 'Helicoil' size. A little expensive but gives you a hard thread in the alloy. Check if the bolt holes go through into the gear case as if they do you might only have to remove the bolts to drain the oil, and fill from the bottom hole till oil comes out the top hole. Seems odd that you have to take the whole back plate off to change the oil as this is disturbing the seals and shaft bush. May be possible to modify to change oil more easily. Also check to see if the seals are the correct way round.
I have a Chinese 'Sail' brand 15hp 2T (copy of a Yamaha 15 FMH) and it's been 100% reliable (4yrs so far) and runs as well as any other brand.
The only problem is that the Chinese outboards are not made of marine grade alloy (probably ok in fresh water) but of alloy similar to car water pumps etc therefore needing more thorough flushing and using something like CRC 'Salt-Away (if used in the sea) can help prolong their life . They are a bit like the early US outboards like Mercs, West Bends, Chryslers etc which were fine in lakes but dissolved in sea water (you may have noticed that old outboards are generally lighter than new outboards of the same size,- I had a 60s 75hp Flying Scott which I could carry no problem, you wouldn't lift a modern 75hp,- much better alloy and casting methods). Never the less, for the price and with a few upgrades and mods the Chinese outboards are on the whole a good deal as you can buy 2 or 3 for the price of a Merc or Yamaha etc and parts are dirt cheap. If you consider that an outboard might only be used a few times a year and is quietly rotting away while in storage, it makes sense to go for a cheaper alternative and even buy another for a spare if you aren't going too far from shore.
Interesting videos by the way, was thinking of getting a similar o/b to replace the Seagull (lighter quieter and cleaner) on my 15ft daysailer. Looked at Mercs etc but they are near to $1000 NZD, these are around $500 NZD.
Wow, thank you for taking the time to provide such good information. Eventually I might consider your idea for changing the gear oil without removing the main cover. Fortunatley, I live far far away from any ocean, so no salt water damage to contend with. Thanks again for taking the time to write and watch!
@@BoilerDan1 You are lucky having such great lakes to run on. Unfortunately our largest North Island lake -Lake Taupo, is in the middle of the North Island of NZ and about 200 miles away. There are a number of other large lakes (by NZ standards) in the North Island but also a similar distance away. The largest lakes are in the South Island, around 1000km away (including an approx 80km ferry trip), so being only about 500m from a boat ramp on the Hibiscus Coast ( Orewa Beach - E coast) in Auckland means it's the sea or a very long drive.
Just don’t over tighten them and you’ll be fine. Use anti seize as well. My humble opinion.
Thanks 👍
Yep good save on the stripped bolt! Using the old noggin! Keep up the great work Dan. Just got my HK 3.6. Two bills even online, plus a 3 year extended warranty through a major chain store for a few bucks more. (Don't know if that was smart on their part but time will tell! And I don't usually go for extended warranties but it seemed like a no brainer on this, and this store is usually good for it.) Bit of a pretty steep learning curve on that booger of a motor it seems! Subscribed and following along closely! Glad we have the luxury of your experiences cause I'm sure I would do worse due to lack of patience (and skill) sometimes. But I follow directions well if they are provided! (By you in this case!) 😁 TY! Bo in Upstate SC.👍👍
Edit: BTW it's funny the instruction book for the Hangkai 3.6 that comes with it (at least mine, that said "thank you for purchasing SPEEDA outboard motor" ???) start with the first page very well translated, and completely tank from there. Nonsensical after that to say the least. This clearly qualifies Dan as an "Essential Worker" if any crap hits the fan again!👊
I keep trying to get the family to move to SC!
A couple of additional things:
Just break the motor in on the water not a bucket! I kept adding snow to keep the water cool.
The insulation idea failed as I think it held heat…. So don’t do that!
You already learned that IT’s AN ALUMINUM BLOCK - Don’t over tighten!
I’d definitely swap out the tension spring (hmmm…. Maybe not if it messes up your extended warranty?)
Be prepared to probably replace the clutch every season or two.
I think the motor itself is good…. It’s the little things that could be better… but I would do it all again as I enjoyed messing around with it!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to provide feedback.
Good luck with yours.
I’ll be visiting SC in September.
There’s a gift shop in Port Royal that sells wooden model ships that I make so I spend a few weeks vacationing in the area after I drop off some ships to Mrs B & Company.
@@BoilerDan1 Thank YOU for the reply and the additional info Dan. Some other comments: First, both of my brothers (both now passed) settled on Hilton Head and lived there for decades, which is only 30 miles or less as the crow flies from Port Royal. One of my sisters in law is still there and I have a niece in Savannah, so I am in that neck of the woods as often as possible. (I am in the Greenville area) I have been to Port Royal years ago and did the Parris Island tour which if they still do it, I recommend to anyone with any interest in our military. Hope you can talk the family into moving to SC! Though you probably won't be able to cool a break-in water bucket with snow! 😆 (Unless you are in the far NW mountainous corner of SC!)
***Now for the Hangkai 3.6. Shout out to all new owners like me, LISTEN to DAN and read comments! His info is invaluable up to and including his hand truck and 5 gal bucket initial break-in set-up. I will be attempting to replicate that ASAP just for the 1st start of the motor and verifying the initial functions. Would rather fool with 1st start at home, just me. The rest of the break-in will be on the lake. Maybe Dan or someone can help me share photos on here but during the process of adding gear oil, when taking the cover off (which I did as carefully as possible and had no trouble with) when I got it off the o-ring had a pretty substantial part (a half inch + curl) shaving off. I did not twist excessively while removing the cover. I may try initial start up and run a few minutes, then recheck the gear oil for water, but I will be in search of a new o-ring before launching. Next someone suggested taking the plastic cover and gasket off of the exhaust/cooling water ports. I did and It looked like the holes in the gasket were punched correctly, but believe it or not one of the holes in the motor shaft (top right hole of the 4) was way off center and totally blocked by the gasket. I cut the gasket so that is not an issue anymore, but then when inspecting the plastic cover before putting it back on I realized the one exhaust/water port at the bottom was about 80% blocked by plastic flashing! Would have been interesting when it started trying to pump water! I cut the flashing out with a razor blade so should be all good.
Again I have photos if I knew how to post here. Anyone who wants to comment just buy a better motor, that would be easy but I would be missing out on the fun! (and I have the time...) I think Dan would agree. Thanks again and sorry for the long read! Bo in SC.
I enjoyed and appreciate your comments.
Special note:
If you do the “bucket break in be sure to keep cool water running in the bucket!
Regarding travel: we go to Hilton Head at least twice a year. It’s our favorite area for FOOD!😂.
I stumbled on Port Royal and that’s where my ships are sold 😎🏴☠️.
I can’t really afford Hilton Head, but we can visit some.
Savanna has great food too!
Enjoy your adventure with your
Hang-Kai 👍👍
And a good couple coats paste wax on all painted surfaces.
Well sir, I just bought mine! Thanks for the tips.
Make sure when you do the break in that you have cool water circulation. My videos aren’t clear that I kept adding water or snow so that it didn’t overheat. Or break in on the lake, then no problem. Just don’t rush to full speed until well after break in.
@@BoilerDan1 hmm, it's good that you mention that.Thank you! I was just planing on doing the break-in with a single bucket of water. Maybe I can just run it at low speeds alongside my trolling motor so that I can at least get to where Im going. My 55lb trolling motor pushes my Tracker 1236 jon boat at some 2.5-4 mph, but the connections overheat with the corrossion from the salt water that I run it in. Don't worry, I will not run the hangkai in salt water primarily. And if I do I plan to hose the entire motor with fresh water as well as run it in a bucket with fresh water constantly being added for a few minutes. I really don't expect this motor to be reliable in any way. I'll soon buy a bigger motor, a Tohatsu or Mercury 6hp 4-stroke. I just can't spend that kind of money right now and damn it I wanna have some fun! So thank you China and thank you sir for making these videos!
You can just run a hose into the bucket! Maybe deflect the water coming back from the motor away from the bucket and turn the hose on enough to keep cool water supplied. I've had fun with mine and it seems to run better with age. Or like you said, run it when you are out on the water. Just vary your speed from time to time and don't full throttle for the break in period. Then run it as normal.... I did keep adjusting the speed after the initial break in because it would have a little kickback, never figured out why, but as time went by, the kickback stopped. I'll be back out in the spring!
Only fill one third with gear oil,expands when hot.
So I have now learned! Thanks for commenting and watching...And educating us all :0)
I think I would also replace shear pins and cotter pins with stainless and grease them, Also a spare prop couldn't be expensive and I would get a couple extra fuel bottles and the premix already made. No filling a mix bottle from gas can on the boat.
Argh..... Why didn't I just buy the HONDA 2.6 hp
Why do you say that, I thought it was working well for you? I just got mine today, runs fine when cold but after it warms up it keeps stopping if you give it a little gas. Restarts fine though.
on a past Merc 3.5, the shear pin would shear when putting the motor into gear or revving up. I just somehow happened to have a copper roofing nail on the sail boat (Hey, it's the ADHD.) Cut it to length and it fit right in. Never sheared after that. Sailors and farmers make good doctors, cause we can figure out things not seen before.!!
BTW, the shear pins are made from a crappy alloy designed to SHEAR if prop hits something. SS might not shear.
@WINCHANDLE another great tip. You’ll need those skills as your journey continues.😂👍
Thank you sir for the best review ever
Glad you liked it!
Hello BoilerDan1, I just bought a 4HP 4Stroke motor likes yours, opening the packing box found propeller gear box leaks oil( not too much), it that normal or need to be repaired ? Thank you.
I don’t think it should leak…. Unless you overfilled it? I think it would have a simple rubber O ring that would make the seal. There’s a grove that you fill up to, and there should be a little air inside the gear housing to allow the gear oil to expand when hotter.
Hope that all makes sense?
I would Look at putting Nut inserts into "any/all stripped holes in Aluminum" Especially on any holes that get removal yearly or more. That way the repair is for Life, and it wont strip out ever again, as long as you dont crank down on it.
I'll look into that idea. Thanks!
No nut Serts IMO. Use anti seize and do not over tighten the bolts. Torque specs for the size nuts and bolts can be looked up or if you have a machinist handbook they are there. Most people over tighten bolts thinking tight is right, in reality tight is tight, too tight is broke. Lol
Thanks 👍
And just for meanness, I would remove decals and replace with color fish decals (for me Redfish or Speckled Trout). Even meaner and worth a few $$$$, vinyl graphics harkening back to Tim The Toolman Taylor: I'd call it the Binford Hydro Turbo Magnum 8000. More Power using the Binford Logo.
I'm laughing out loud! I totally agree... I actually already removed the back one that say's 3.6 hp. I also named the raft: "MY DING-A-LINGY" But your idea for the Magnum 8,000 is great! I might go with Magnum 1,000 (0:
BoilerDan1 I'll work on some graphic tonite
BoilerDan1 what's the dimension of the side decal?
The space is 5"X3" but that is towards the back of the motor. same on the back. The spot where the decal is now is at an angle, so it is 3" high but slants downward to a taper from 5" down to 0"
SHOOT ME YOUR EMAIL TO TRUCKGUY1000@GMAIL.COM. I Have graphix
I just bought a Hangkai 4 stroke 4 HP outboard. I filled the crankcase with oil. The motor smokes and oil leaks from carburetor. How much oil goes in crankcase? How do you read dip stick to see level?
I only have the two stroke. I decided on it because I have to lay the motor down. I had heard that with the 4 stroke, if you lay it on the wrong side it will do what you just explained. So first question is: 1. Did you lay it on it's side after putting oil in the crankcase?
Sorry I can't help on the dip stick level question as I don't have the 4 stroke motor. But it sounds to me like you laid it down on the wrong side and the oil leaked into the engine cylinder/carb system. I be you will need to clean the spark plug too.
Also, do you know to also put gear lube in the bottom area at the propeller? It is shipped empty, and if you don't fill that, you'll strip the gears at the propeller. See my video: ua-cam.com/video/NCALT3MKAEk/v-deo.html
Hi, my engine has been hesitating. Engine revving but boat lurching. What do you think this could be. Possible gear problem or engine?
I had similar issues. I think if it’s hot outside the engine gets warmer. The vacuum in the fuel tank is affected and pulls the fuel back, shutting it off for just a second…. Try loosening the gas cap a little to prevent the vacuum in the tank…. There’s a rubber valve in the top of the gas cap but it’s not very good.
Thanks for watching, hope that helps 👍👍
I might add that I did try to stretch the fuel cap vent tube. Not sure how much it helped. I used a round wire, trying to open it more. You can see the valve on the underside of the gas cap.
Suggest getting the pre mixed oil-gas quart cans from HD or Lowes. No Ethanol. High octane. Always fresh. No Hassle. Worth the higher price.
I just purchased HANKAI 3.5HP outboard . My engine keeps turning off as soon as i lower the throttle what's wrong? Any idea I'm use same oil recommended for this motor ( oil mixture with fuel) I'm using 95 octane gasoline
On full throttle it works perfectly fine but lowering turns it off what's wrong? Any help please
You might try loosening the fuel cap. I had a little problem with the venting of the tank not allowing it to vent. If that doesn’t work, maybe try adjusting the fuel mixture adjusting screws located behind the air filter. I posted a video on the vent problem, Here’s a link to that video.
ua-cam.com/video/FaY2bPiWo_U/v-deo.html
Your 3.5 is very similar to my 3.6, I’ve made several videos that might help you in your journey.... I’m no expert, just documenting my own issues with this motor!
Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to the series: ua-cam.com/play/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm.html
Remove the black plastic exhaust port cap with one 5mm screw, check to see if the hole is drilled through at the bottom, if it isn't drill it right through, it causes rough idle when it is blocked, you will also find it will idle slightly higher it's OK as this exhaust port is suppose to be open. It's just a quality issue that it's not.
I would add thread lock to as many bolts as possible and grease bolt heads to counter act aluminum to stainless bimetallic reaction and vibration
Actually I must admit I don't really know that the bolts are stainless steel? But your point is well made. Maybe take you advice regardless of what they are made of! Thanks for your input.
Also, sloush out gas tank before filling. New fuel line and small inline filter. NO STABIL ADDITIVE!!! Cover insulation is a good idea.
Great point cause when the aluminum corrodes, it makes aluminum oxide... ie...sand paper abrasive !!!
Thanks ! You are great !!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know! 👍👍
dan i have a question for you when i was running gas out to winterize it my clutch spring must have broke because prop spins all the time now my question is can i take it out next spring with a broken clutch and just let the prop spin doesnt seem to hurt it any and actualy sounds better but i dont want to ruin it being a year old
Roy, the concern might be having a piece of the spring mess something else up? But I also understand that you could idle down, then shut down at the shore or dock. But again, I think I would minimally open things up and remove the parts and pieces of the spring. Share how it all works out, I'm sure others would be interested.
@@BoilerDan1 ty dan i dont have a garage so this project will have to be done next spring as always ty for replying
@@BoilerDan1 come spring i will look at spring not sure if i am gonna replace it or just take out spring im kinda upset it has broke already it was running so good
I have seen where the spring just came undone! It will be interesting to see what it ends up being. I also agree that just removing the clutch springs and have prop move even at idle would be fine with me. I shut it down and coast to the shore anyway. Your also right about cutting down on noise. I can hear the clutch slipping and engaging too. Let me know how it goes this spring. I read somewhere???? That the clutch is can be replaced with another brand???? Maybe Yamaha? It was either on UA-cam or maybe eBay? You can have fun researching that over the winter 😳
My clutch went on my first engine. I wrote the manufacturer and they sent me a new clutch for free. Easy repair. Just unbolt the motor from the leg. Clutch is mounted to the motor. Make sure the cup it slips into is clean and not gouged.
Hi Dan, you sent me an email about the o ring...deleted i guess and i was wondering can I purchase just the o ring , that you pop off to put gear oil in?
Yes, I'm sure you can. I usually go to Ace Hardware for that type of thing... They seem to be extra helpful! But any hardware store PLUMING Department should have what you need. take the old one with you for them to match up with. Should be an easy fix under $2 Guessing,,,,
@@BoilerDan1 dan to clarify...the o ring is the metal piece that has two bolt that you take out to fill the gear oil? that is what i would like to replace its not a filter or gasket...but the hard cover over the gear oil
Actually an O ring is the round rubber gasket that seals the bolted part in place. The part you are describing is more major and would not be available anywhere I would know? I located a possible solution that might work. Check out the link below:
www.ebay.com/itm/Hangkai-2-stroke-3-5HP-Outboard-Motor-engine-gear-box-propeller-water-pump-assy/273099121555?hash=item3f95f9e393:g:G3cAAOSwmRBalmfI
For small 2 strokers like this, skip Starbucks a couple of times, and "splurge" on premixed gas/oil from HD or Lowes. High octane. No Ethanol. Less end of season waste. Keep fresh, unopened cans on the boat. You'll be sending me flowers and Mrs. See's chocolates soon !!!!!
Probably very good advice! I had the fuel lines rot out in one season. I figured it was the Ethanol.
Does any-one have the lower gear case O-Ring part number or the model name for the original outboard engine the Hang-kai 3.6 was "inspired" on? My O-ring came botched from the factory and the e-bay seller hasn't been much help.
I have the company website.
m.hang-kai.com/en/
It’s a little tricky to navigate, but in the upper right you can select language (English).
In the upper left there are a series of horizontal lines with a drop down menu:
Select “News” for some trouble shooting articles.
There’s also a contact section that you might be able to ask for specific information about your O ring.
Good luck👍
Thanks for watching my video, and using it to reach out to my audience for help.🧐
you might find a close match at West Marine or and outboard service center.
Insead of using the expensive oils just use car 20w 50 and don't fill it all the way up. The gearbox seals in these don't work very well and you just need to change the oil every time if there are, periods of non use.ps put some stainless steel spilt washers under the screws to stop them from vibrating loose.
Thanks for watching and adding to the conversation. I’m guessing that you are right as the gears inside are very simple.
@@BoilerDan1 yes Dan it's just a 90 degree gear and a brass bushing with an oil channel. I'm sure the Chinese don't buy marine grade grease in their local hardware shops.
@@BoilerDan1 OK no problem, I had my 2.2 hp Hagkai for a few years now. They were originally 2.2 hp by the way. It's had a propellor shaft seal problem all that time. I took it apart and noticed the shaft seal was rammed into the housing not square to the recess,this caused the seal to not be symmetrial to the shaft. I ordered another seal and knocked the other out. The recess walls had spray paint runs on it which also caused the seal to leak around the outside. I carefully removed the paint then reinserted the new seal with grease. The leak then moved to the oring joint between the gear case and the end cap, but the leak was less, noticed the oring was a bit flat on the outside and the oring Grove has got muck in it causing the oring to not seal well. I'd advise you to check these mentioned points and the motor will be more long lasting.
@@BoilerDan1 ps it is just a quality issue with how they are made it's not really a quality issue with the design as it's a fairly simple machine which is sometimes a good thing.
@@BoilerDan1 another thing is the fuel pipes going to the tank are some type of plastic that reacts to the tank bung which causes the tubes to harden and snap off inside the motor cover.
Rather than overtighten I'd guess one could put some silicone caulking on a few of the threads near the opening.
I hadn’t had any experience with the aluminum block motors before….. So your thoughts are welcome. Wish I had thought of that 😂👍
I damaged the oring around the bottom of the gear oil cover when I was trying to pry it up with my screwdriver, does anyone know where I can get a replacement?
I can only suggest taking the cover and damaged O ring to a Good hardware store or plumbing supply store. I’ve had some luck searching at Amazon, measure the O ring and search both Amazon and Google? Hope other viewers respond with better advice 😁 Thanks for watching 👍
Good idea, thanks!
I’m still thinking about the O ring. I looked it up on Amazon and it looks like three measurements are required! Maybe a plumbing supply can measure yours if they don’t have one? Anyway the needed measurements are: outside diameter, inside diameter and the thickness of the ring itself,. Not sure if that’s the tiny diameter or just across it?
Aliexpress.com carries all Hangkai parts but shipping may take a while
Thanks, that’s good to know. I hope Jason is checking back as it’s been a while since he was asking 👍
How has motor been holding up? Any issues?
The motor itself is good and solid (My opinion). Some of my video's deal with minor fixes and I will be making another video yet this summer with some minor tweaks I've completed. But no major motor/engine problems.
Recently as an example, I had one of the shut off wires slip off of it's connection. Only needed to slid it back on and crimp it a little harder. Things like that will be covered in my next video update. But all in all, I'm very happy with the motor considering the cost out of pocket. But as stated in the past... It's slow, but I knew that when I purchased it.
I have several other video's on the motor. If you can't find them, try searching UA-cam for BoilerDan1 That should bring them all up.
I just used 10w40 synthetic motor oil... it rums way better and the reason you have water in your lower drive is because you overfilled it and didn’t leave room for oil expansion causing oil to seep out during operation and creating a vacuum on the lower while it’s sitting in the water during idle or cool down allowing water to enter past the oring... that’s bad
Yes, you are correct. Someone brought it to my attention previously and I've corrected it. I'm planning on a follow-up video to cover Q & A from other comments and questions I've received. I'll be sure to include your advice. Thanks
BoilerDan1 these little engines get a bad wrap, but for those of us that are mechanically inclined we know how to make them sing. Very simple and pretty reliable little engines.. air/fuel/water n she goes all day long. Keep up the good work sir, I’ll keep tuning in
Good info, Thanks!
When i removed the gear case the oil seal just went out how can i put it back again?
I’d recommend taking it to a lawn mower repair shop or an Ace Hardware store and see if they can match the seal ring. You could also try to measure it yourself and then try eBay and Amazon.
@@BoilerDan1Thanks because when i got it i tried openning it and then it was leaking oil then when i opened it the oil seal just went off
@@N2GMoto if it’s not split or torn you can push it back in place. But if it’s out, you might take it somewhere and purchase a spare while you have it out. Hopefully you can find one. 👍
@@BoilerDan1 Tried to put it back the leaking went much more
or should i push it hard？
I Bought a Merc propane 5 horse OB. It runs great, but on my Highfield dinghy, it almost too heavy to pull up on the dinghy dock. Just bought one of these motors for its light weight. The instruction manual might have well been written in Chinese Hieroglyphic cuneiform. Thank you for your great video. It is certain that your saved me from making some big mistakes. I bet there would be a market for an individual fluent in Chinese (Mandarin, Cantonese) who could edit Chinese instruction manuals. Might be fun to read Chinese electronic sex toy manuals !!!
You’re welcome. I’m not sure on everything but thought documenting my journey may be helpful to others.👍
Where does the exhaust come out?
At an idle, most of it will come out a little hole where at speed, water for cooling the motor comes out. But once you accelerate, it comes out below the waterline just above the propeller.
BoilerDan1 thanks great info and nice video 👍
Nice job
I was learning as I went 😂.
Just shared my experience and thought it might help someone else too.
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍
Can I used 75-90 gear oil??
Manufacturer recommends 90,. I did start with full synthetic that was 75-90 but switched back thinking maybe the heavier weight might be better for the simplicity of the gears used. Maybe another viewer can post a more expert response. I've run mine now for a little over 25 hours and everything is doing fine.
BoilerDan1 ok thanks
I’ve been using regular synthetic 10w40 motor oil on my 3.6 outboard for well over a year and it seems like it has more power.. that along with adjusting the carburetor made a world of difference... just my experience here
The 75-90 will be fine. 10-30 is too thin and will lead to wear on the gears. Yes I am a marine mechanic.
@@gpecaut1 what does it has to do with it? the w90 is for the gears, the 10w30 is for the engine .. they are two different things
Bonjour, avez vous la vidéo en FRANÇAIS SVP MERCI
Je suis désolé, je ne parle pas français et je ne pouvais pas produire en français.
Overfilling the drive isn’t a good idea. It can create pressure and leak the 90 wt or blow your seal
Thanks, I did end up using the proper amount, thankfully before messing anything up!
When the manufacturer tapped that hole out they stripped it and put a helicoil in it..
So that explains why no drain port!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. 👍
@@BoilerDan1 Yeah no problem. I have 4hp hangkai and apparently the bottom bolt on the lower unit is supposed to drain the oil and the top bolt is used to fill your gear oil.
@@BoilerDan1 Do you know where to get spare parts for these boat motors?
Some, I’ll try and respond with more info next week. I’m currently away from home on a little vacation 😁
If you Google Hangkai outboard motor parts you’ll get a list of several from eBay Amazon and more.
Here’s what aliexpress offers:
m.aliexpress.com/popular/hangkai-outboard-parts.html
Here’s the manufacturer website too:
m.hang-kai.com/en/
Click upper left lines and select news.
It’s actually trouble shooting help.
Click around on their page as it has several things…. Not marked well, probably due to translation. There’s a contact link too.
Thanks again for watching 👍👍
Can this motor be used in sea water?
I'm about as far away from sea water as possible, so I don't know the answer to that question. I have seen that some have had problems with the water cooling tubing corroding and that may have been due to salt water. Maybe check with some others on UA-cam that have videos similar. If you want my suggestion, maybe go with the air cooled model so you don't have that salt water cooling the motor.
I sure hope so. Best to rinse off w fresh water if possible.
Motors are electric. Thats an engine.
Sorry 🧐
that mistake is so common, so suggest just giving up. Don't get me started on past participles (I should have went, or you should have saw) or that prepositions/transitive verbs take objective pronouns...."Send my wife and ME the fax..." correct. NOT "my wife and I." drives me nuts. High falutin', pompous news casters started this 3rd grade grammar error 20 years ago. It has spread globally.
I think I'll just pay the extra few 100 dollars for a good motor
might add another 0 to your amount. If I were a serious fisher or boater, I would too. This is a fun project for me. I'll leave the serious boating to you. :0)
not meant to be insulting but per yours and others in-depth videos of this motor it seems to be a piece of junk. Honda sells a real 2.3 hp for 799.00. The Hangkai is $250.00 so for extra $550.00 I get more thrust and quality. Im trying to decide if it is worth the savings to put up with this engines shortcomings. I need the motor for a inflatable boat.
No offense taken. I'm just playing around with it. Mine is running better than I've implied. I've had it out a few times now. But yes, I agree, the Honda would be a good investment. I purchased mine mid-winter and it was less then $200, so I'm good.
Thanks for watching and commenting. It will help others decide on a direction one way or another. So all is good.
If i can get 1 less than 200 then I'd have to go with one!
Got mine for $150. Proper set up is important on any motor. Go heavy on the two cycle oil for at least the first tank of fuel. 30:1-25:1. Use 90 or xx/90 marine oil in the gear case. Synthetic isn't as important as changing the oil every 25 hours, or when putting the engine up at the end of boating season. Fog the engine when you put it up too.
As for cheap Chinese, yes, replace the fuel lines and spark plug. You don't have to use Bee's wax. Paraffin wax works just as well ( old candle). No need to run high dollar fuel, just be aware that alcohol in the fuel will absorb water. Alcohol blended fuels will reduce the power, and will require a richer fuel setting. Never use old fuel that has alcohol in it. Alcohol causes gasoline to sour. Guaranteed to cause your engine to run like poop, if at all.
too much oil way too much
Yes, I finally figured that out. Thanks for watching and pointing that out. Hopefully others will see and not make the same mistakes that I did! I’m just learning as I go 👍👍
Is trash, do not waste your money do not buy this engine, amazon should not sell this, I lost my money