Thanks Dan. I'm retired too and have a new Hangkai in my shed ready for me to fire up. It helps when somebody else has been to the trouble of trouble shooting problems, to reduce problems for other people.
Great encouragement for me! I'll be adding more.... The pull start has a defective plastic piece that comes lose. It can result in the pull cord catching when you release it too fast (Mine did and broke the cord. Solution. glue that little guide into place and wrap it with a little electrical tape too. I'll make a shorter video soon showing exactly what happened and the fix.
I was getting ready to do a 25 hour run time review. When I removed the cover to pre-inspect the motor, one of the fuel lines broke off. I will definitely add in a recommendation to change the fuel lines at the time of purchase. It did spew gas around until I removed the cap to relieve pressure.. Could be a serious fire risk if there had been any spark around. I'll cover this in my next video post.
Ran Sue : Fuel lines from Amazon. Here’s the link. HIFROM Replace 4-Feet Fuel Line Hose Tube (4 Size) I.D. x O.D. 3/32" x 3/16" 1/8" x 3/16" 1/8" x 1/4" 0.080" x 0.140" for Poulan Craftman Chainsaw String Trimmer Blower www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSP00U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z5ebFbNK2W8W3
Oh, while you got it running, you could cruise over to the neighbors, 3 houses down, your brother is in his boat, but needs a tow back to the main yard. The neighborhood kids are complying he is disturbing their snorkel class in the snow. Brahaha! All these small 2 cycle motor have their quirks, but when broke in, they are great. I had a 7 hp Eska back in 1973, it ran good and powerfull. Enjoyed it very much, especially after I got the bugs worked out. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks for watching. I hope to take it on a full day (downstream journey) passing by a little cabin my parents had along the Tippecanoe River. Just waiting for water levels to return to normal! It'll be about a 20 mile trip, so it should be a good test of the motor now that it is broken-in. Speaking of the "snow snorkel class", I remember taking an old V bottom boat of my dads out in the winter when there was a thin sheet of ice extending out on the river about 10 feet. I went slow, pretending the boat was an ice breaker and chipped away at the ice. It was an old two cycle motor on it.... Wish I still had it! But I wouldn't repeat the bit of foolishness again! …...What were my parents thinking :0-(
To pull out the starter rope for maintenance, just pull it out and tie a loose removable knot in the rope near the starter housing. Also although it has a water pump, this machine is actually air cooled. The water pump only cools the exhaust tuner. It won’t harm the engine to run it without water pumping but it will melt the cowling and stuff
Thanks Dan, very usefull videos, just wish I had seen it or spent the time to look over my Hangkai 3.6HP before taking it out. I have mine mounted off the side of a canoe, its really just an inexpensive project. First failure was the choke setting. After inspecting the air filter I realised the choke settings were backwards and got it going in a bucket. Next time out my pull start and claw pawl failed with bits everywhere. $20 on ebay and I’m good to go again. Maybe this time. Ive added marine grade 75-90 gear oil to the gear box. Marine grade silicone grease to the seals and shaft. Pulled the water pump apart and coated all surfaces with the silicone grease and put it back together with thread lock. Couldn’t get a NGK-BM6Y, got a NGK-BPMR7A and a Honda/Denso W22MPR-U.
Thanks for sharing. I didn't indicate in my early videos that when using a bucket, make sure you keep the water cool. Running a hose so it doesn't overheat. I actually kept adding snow and ice but failed to show that. Sounds like my videos have helped! Especially on the backwards choke! Also put some new wax on that pull cord, it will last a lot longer..... Mine shows no wear at all (0:
Thanks Dan, the water stayed cool, started fist pull. Thanks, my cord came waxed as with the spare, the new one wasn’t though. I was tempted to canabalise into an electric and like the look of the Hangkai 4HP electric I found on Aliexpress but Ill stick to the gas for now.
I have had zero problems with my hangkia 3.5. It did not have oil in gear box that was easy fix. Also replaced plug wires cj8 replacement "E"nergy premium plug from Home depot. Aside from that engine as easy to maintain as garden " weed whacker." On my inflatable Sea Eagle ex380 we fly along. Easily 7-9 mph depending on tidal flow.
I'm very happy with mine too. I have yet to run it in a calm water environment like a lake or pond. No tidal flows in Indiana! :0) I agree, the motor is a very simple design, and parts look easy to come by via eBay. I hope to soon get on a small lake and see how it does in calm water. I expect the 7-9 mph you described. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey Dan. The idea of a filter for the intake of the carburetor is a mute point because outboard motors don't use an air filter anyhow . The environment that they operate has little dust and there is to much of a chance of moisture getting them wet and choking the airflow. All and all a great review and informed review. Thanks and we will be awaiting the on the water review.
Not the first to point that out to me. Fortunately I had not changed it, and I will leave as is! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I hope to make a full day journey on a small river that I'm familiar with (Tippecanoe River)... Once the water levels come down to normal!
I would recommend something a little more solid than the raft I put together. I lost thrust because it to squishy. So spend a little more and find a better design! Thanks for watching 👍
Dan, I read somewhere that this little motor is really a "1.5".. Either way, it'sa step upfrom a electric trolling motor. Even though I don't need one, I'd still like to have one. My fishing buddy gave me his "OLD" jon boat. As long as it gets me to where I wanta go to and back, this motor is for me .. Thanks man
Point A to point B it will do. It should push a Jon boat a lot better than an air filled raft! It’s a bit noisy but it sounds good for what you’re wanting to accomplish. Thanks for watching 👍👍 There are little issues so I encourage you to watch more of my videos…. Especially on replacing the clutch. I’m no mechanic and am able to do it. Parts are available through eBay and some from Amazon too 👍👍
Hi thanks for the tutorial I was given a 3.5 older mode, l had to check it out but runs fine no problems I didn't know about the oil next to the prop so will check it tomorrow. Keep up the good work.
Hi there I have had some experience with servicing outboard motors, I suggest your comment about the air filter being inadequate is really not that important simply because outboard motors are never used in conditions where dust is an issue. Most outboard motors use some kind of spark arrester type of devise where an air filter would normally be fitted in case of backfire igniting leaking fuel.
Mr. Raab I’m glad you found the review useful. Although I am very happy with the motor, I understand you not wanting to take the risk or messing with it. For me it’s an adventure! Thanks again for watching.
I'm going to get one of these. Seems pretty straight forward. Worth the expense and time. I'm going to use it on a Paddle boat. Great detailed video. Thanks
They seem to work for some, not for everyone. But if you tinker with motors it’s works fine. The clutch is an issue, but swapping out the tension spring helps, and regularly replacing it! Not hard to work on… Good luck with yours, and thanks for watching 👍👍
By far one of the best review/demos I’ve watched on any product. It’s appreciated by many. Have you had the opportunity to try it under a load yet? Would you purchase again?
Thanks! I have not had a chance to try it out on the water yet. I will test it out as soon as the water levels here go down. Near record floods on the Tippecanoe river where I'd like to run my test. Hopefully early April 2018. I also discovered that in Indiana you must register and title a raft if putting any motor on it. I completed that this morning. (I may make a video on that process as you have to get special forms from the seller.) I will continue making video's with any little snags that occur as I use it. I would definitely buy it again. Mid-winter it was just under $200. It will probably go up a little due to seasonal demands. But for my use, spending upwards of $1,000 wasn't going to happen..
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Adrian Jaxton Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
You said you paid less than $200? That's amazing! That is about a quarter of the price of more mainstream brands of similar rated power. Very tempting to give it a try.
The block of the motor seems very solid to me. Some of the exterior parts are questionable, but I've replaced some of those things. I've mentioned before that I do like the motor and it continues to run just fine. The price does seem to fluctuate, so if you keep your eye open, I bet you kind find a good deal too. I did buy mine between Christmas and New Years Day. Maybe it was a slow time? I've gotten more than $200 in fun with it for sure!
I just bought one of these motors - my is called a Seahorse but basically the same motor - little different in cover design. Anyway thanks for your videos Boiler Dan you kept me from having to deal with a lot of repairs/modifications. I just got the gear oil, marine grease, new spark plug and will use bow string wax instead of the bees wax since I couldn't find it today. Thanks again and I'll let you know how well it works on my first outing this weekend after I get all the tips you provided done.
Glad to hear my videos have helped! It will be better doing the break-in during the summer. On the gear oil... Don't over fill it. I discovered there is a line inside the casing. There is also markings on the outside that says fill to here.... very faint but it is there. And if you've watched all of them, you know not to overtighten those nuts! In the summer, you can take it out and just run it slow and medium until your tired of running. Keep track of the time run. The more I have run mine, the smoother it has gotten. Although I haven't even gotten out this summer at all.... The water is still too high for going out in a raft. A hard shell boat would be better. But I'll get out eventually! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
So it does not have a transmission and the water pump is keyed to the prop drive shaft. So if the prop is not turning neither is the water pump. How long can it be ran in neutral without cooling water before the motor burns up?
That I don’t know? The motors block has some cooling fins that might help some? But I’m guessing that you would want it to sit in idle for long periods of time. They offer a 4 cycle that is air cooled, and if I had it to do over again, I would probably get that model. The 2 cycle doesn’t have a muffler, it sends the exhaust out below the water line.... so the fish will definitely hear you coming! It’s basically to get you from point A to B. Not for trolling! Thanks for watching 👍
I just bought a 1985 Johnson 4.5 ho two cylinder for 300 CAD, it’s had little use and runs great, I thought about a Chinese motor, but the Johnson will run for years, even tho that engine is new, you don’t get any warranty
In looking at the handle, it does appear that you could simple un-bolt it from the motor and turn it around. The throttle cable may need disconnected and reconnected so that it doesn't have a twist in it. However, I'm not sure how well suited the motor will be on a lightweight kayak? Especially in the front? Although I think I recall the motor weighs less than 25 lbs. The thrust / pull of the propeller could become an issue? Also, the motor is a bit loud. There is no muffler, it just vents below the water line.... So not good for trolling. But from point A to point B it would do the job...... but I suggest you review all my videos, so you are aware of the issues I ran in to. It's not for everyone, but I enjoyed it. Unfortunately, after I turned 70 my family encouraged me to sell the entire raft and motor. In hindsight, I would have been better off with a lightweight solid fishing boat and trailer.... That being said, I was happy with almost everything except the softness of the raft created a loss of thrust because it would flex..... I ended up breaking even when I sold it.... So maybe if it doesn't work on you kayak, you could sell the motor! Thanks, and keep watching the series before deciding if it is right for you!
Thanks for the review, very informative, Im gonna add my comments here as this seems the best resource regarding this engine on the net. Like a 60’s era car this engine is very simple so if you have any mechanical inclination your gonna be able to deal with it. Its a 200$ motor where as something high quality is gonna be a minimum of 4x more expensive so im not gonna criticize its crudeness, for 700$ im gonna deal with it. The engine is listed as water cooled but its really not sure there is any circulation through the block, the thing is a loud screamer like a fully air cooled. The water cooling might just be injected to cool the exhaust. There seems to be some sort of inertial transmission where at a certain rev a gear engages that will turn the prop and engage the water pump. This presents difficulty at docking as you have no steering or propulsion at low power. Also not sure the type of transmission or clutch geared or friction. Gets very low propulsion at anything less than full power. I have this on a dinghy i transit to my sailboat on a mooring. I have to deal with wind currents and chop, at full power the engine moves the boat well but at anything less its nowhere near good enough. The power curve is a hockey stick at 90% power.
Nice review. The transition you mentioned is inertia. There have been some comments on mine making metallic noise. Actually I discovered that the quick fasteners that I use on the metal side poles have the metal hinge vibrating on the metal pole causing that noise on the video. That being said, you can hear the clutch as it is partially engaged at slower speeds. The water pump system is also very simple, no gears, it just fits over the square shaft leading to the gears for the propeller. I'm planning on a video this fall of how to disassemble that area an replace the pump wheel. Not that it's needed, I'm just having fun with the motor. And yes, full speed or idle are about your only options with it. Thanks for responding.
Hi Dan, thanks a lot for your great work reviewing the Hangkai. I’ve recently purchased it on eBay and I am going to take it out for a fishing trip in the Netherlands. As you’ve recommended I’ll do some adjustments at the beginning. Concerning the isolation of the motor: how much does it reduce the noise and secondly does the motor heat up more compared to without isolation? I am glad you gave so many tips and hope that you’ll add some more experience.
I ended up removing the noise deadening material. It made little to no difference in sound and I was concerned about it over heating. Hope yours works out well! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
BoilerDan1 need to add one more question: did you ever change the spring of the pull starter? Cause the second pull starter was stuck and I opened it and couldn’t close ist anymore....
Phil Moody ; As far as the pull start cord, I was never able to figure out how to increase the tension once the cord has spun lose. The good news is that they were inexpensive to buy the pull cord unit. Coating the rope with bee wax really increased the wear and tear on mine as well.
Thank you for this video! This helped me and dad out a lot. Do you know the best way to get a 35:1 mix? I was going to buy a small Jerry can and mix in that, to pour directly into the motor
I went to my local Walmart and they had one. Amazon has several, here’s a sample: Portable 2-Stroke Engine Oil Fuel Mixing Bottle Tank 20:1/25:1/40:1/50:1 Chainsaw Strimmer Chain Saw Brush Cutter Trimmer (1L) a.co/d/5TmtSC7 You might have to mark between the listed ones during break in…. But after that the 50:1 burns cleaner and is clearly marked. Search Amazon and you can probably find one with 36:1 marks. Thanks for watching 👍👍
Vey helpful video. It is much much better than the manual which comes with the motor. It is also the best demonstration available online. Thank you very much
Thanks, I’ve made several videos of my adventure. Some thoughts change along the way but all in all I’m still happy with the motor. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
Thanks! I’m actually considering getting the 4 stroke so I don’t have to mix oil and gas, but that’s about 6 months away from consideration. If you’re concerned with it being noisy then you might reconsider. I don’t know about the 4 strokes but mine is kinda noisy compared to other boat motors. But not as loud as a weed walker or lawn mower. Make sure you check out what repairs I’ve made too.
Hey Dan, if you ever consider purchasing a 4 stroke out board, I have found that the Parsun brand 2.6hp or even the 5hp to be a great, extremely reliable engine. Parsun is a subsidiary of Yamaha, and their outboards are ISO rated, and we'll engineered.
Hi! I just bought one on Amazon for $160. I'm going to put it on and old 12' starcraft jon boat. Your videos have been super helpful. I'm breaking it in now by running it 1hr a day in the tank with 35:1. I was wondering what your thoughts were on running 40:1 after that. Do you think running the extra oil might prolong the lif of the mototr?
Actually after break in the manufacturer’s website advises to reduce to 50:1. I’d go with that as it motor will run cleaner and better. Use the best quality oil and that’s the best way to improve longevity. Here’s a copy of Hangkai website: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline) Here’s the website: m.hang-kai.com/en/ Go to the horizontal lines at the top left corner. Click on them then click on “News” and you’ll find some helpful information.
@HI-PSI Due to age (71), and not having a lake nearby….. taking it out on the river on an inexpensive raft….. Sometimes you just need to take into account your limitations….. short answer, no…. I sold it to a younger guy that had previously owned another similar motor and was thrilled to get it. If I’d had it on a traditional hard body boat, I’d probably still be going out with it… Thanks for watching my adventures!😂👍
The best way to break in motor is on your boat. Leave propeller on. I took mine off only because I do not live close to lake. You must keep cool water running in the barrel to keep motor cool if you can’t put the motor on your boat. Here’s the manufacturer’s website that may help too: m.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp
I have an older model Hangkai (grey/diff location of choke lever). Maybe you can help with a few questions. 1. there is no fuel filter. should I add it? 2. I did not add gear oil or use the 32:1 break in mixture. Should do the break in mix now? I will add the gear oil. The instructions at the time were horrible.
Fuel filter is inside the gas tank and yes I would add one. If you have already run the motor for several hours, then no reason to use the higher oil/fuel mix. But if only run a little, then yes do the higher amount of oil. You can use the motor during that time, just very your speed from time to time. I’ve heard that the older motor came with gear oil in it. But I would check it and change it out anyway. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
@@BoilerDan1 thanks dan ...i did find the fuel filter. there was no gear oil so I added. I have only run it an hour so I'll start the 30:1 mix now. Thanks!
Thanks, I will worry less about the issue. I figure I'll check it from time to time, and swap it out if looks like too much. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
So I was in the process of thinking about purchasing this exact motor. My question is how do I hook up and maybe get to it part of the video and somebody’s asking already how do I hook up a 3 gallon gas tank to this motor?
I’m not an expert on that however I’m fairly sure that you just need to lengthen the fuel line and add a primer pump to get the fuel to the motor. Then once started it will suck in the fuel. Here’s a sample of what I’m talking about: (NOTE, you’ll need to determine the size fuel line to get). a.co/d/3oS6CJc
@@BoilerDan1 yeah thank you that’s kind of what I figured. I figured. Just disconnect a few lines and connected to the little internal fuel tank and get those little hand pump with the lines prime it would go like a regular outboard. I just wasn’t sure but thank you very much, sir.
My state does have non ethanol gas so I have no choice but to purchase already mixed non ethanol 50:1 fuel on line. Can I still do the break in with that cause the next already mix available is a 20:1
It's very important to use the higher amount of oil in the fuel during break-in. So don't use the 50:1 during break-in. Regarding the fuel, I discovered that I have been using ethanol gas all along. I get the highest grade fuel though. So I would recommend getting the most expensive gas at the pump, then break the motor in with the correct fuel / Oil mix and mix it yourself. So far the only problem I had which probably was due to ethanol in my gas too was one of the fuel lines rotted out. That's a cheap and easy replacement that you could even do right away. Or start out with the 20:1 mix. Just know that even the 35:1 mix (or was it 30:1?) will result in excess oil coming out the exhaust port. But once break in is done, the 50:1 mix will run clean. Have fun with the motor! Check out the other video's I've done, I will keep posting as things happen. So far nothing major, but making some easy changes that I have covered in the video's might help you along the way. Thanks for watching!
Sorry in Indiana the boat itself is registered. In your case you’ll have to apply for a title to be assigned. Usually you get a form to take with you to law enforcement to inspect. Maybe similar to if you built your own trailer, the state assigned it to a unique number….. maybe not worth the hassle. Sorry.
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos. They have been helpful. I just bought the same 3.6 HP from eBay and have been making all of the updates you have suggested. So far it feels like a pretty solid motor (for the price) once you take care of the known issues. I noticed on this video that you were able to give some throttle and have it stay at that speed without having to provide continual pressure (turn) to the throttle handle. On mine I can turn it freely, but when I let go it turns back to the idle position on its own. Did you do something to allow it to maintain throttle without keeping constant pressure on the handle? I did try tightening the little hex bolt on the end but it hasn’t worked so far. Thanks
I don't recall adjusting anything? I the beginning I also had to hold it to go full throttle..... Maybe the handle extension that I put on had something to do with it. I ended up putting some small wooden slats inside the handle extension to allow it to grip better, I'm guessing that did it. I want to mention that during break-in I kept a close eye on water temperature in my bucket. You need to supply cool water so you don't over heat. I broke it in last winter and added snow or cold water to the bucket from time to time, but didn't show that on the video's. I'm enjoying the little motor and will get it out again in the spring. I'll try to document any problems that I have along the way and update with a video from time to time. Good luck with yours.
Thanks for the reply, I’ll see if I can’t find a way to keep the throttle handle turned without holding it. Maybe it starts to “stick” a little after some use. I’ll keep an eye on the water temps in my bucket during break in.
trying to change the pull start rope. It's impossible to remove the broken off cord. Needle nose vice grip will not pull out. But the rope snapped off. Used the motor twice. Any advice Land locked in Texas.
You’ll have to replace the pull start system. Easy and cheap 😁 Here’s a sample: www.ebay.com/itm/324402571624?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=u42jVzE4So-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Here’s how to do it: ua-cam.com/video/4Ad70xqUNX4/v-deo.html
Amazon has them too: Gekufa 33cc Recoil Pull Start Starter for Compatible with ATVs Pocket Dirt Bike 43cc 47cc 49cc 50cc Gas Scooters Pocket Bikes Mid-Bikes Mini-Choppers Small Quads with Claw Pawl Cog (Set of 2) www.amazon.com/dp/B08SJ2WLNL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R1E2275T5H4VNRBV0YQM
I bought this Hankai 3.5hp last year on Ebay but hard to use. It was hard to staring up. It took me a lot times to get starting but when I shut of the engine and try starting again it won't start. Had to try so many times when lucking it started but most the times it won't. I hate to use it. Any suggestion. I might throw in the trash. It was brand new motor. It cheap but it not good.
Not sure how to help. If you did everything correctly.... 35:1 oil fuel mix. Make sure you turn the choke to "OFF" and then turn the throttle handle about 1/2 inch toward higher run. Mine starts every time on second or third pull of the starter cord. Also, did you put gear oil in the bottom, near the propeller? (watch my other video's to see what I am talking about). Good luck, hope this helped.
Buy a used tohatsu or nissan 2.5 3.5 hp 2 stroke. Ive owned many some of which were blue and from the 80's that ran extremely well and reliably. Thats the best $200 solution to your problem
Not that I remember? But the clutch system has moving parts that could make that kind of sound if your at a speed where it tries to engage and disengage…? The clutch system is not the best on these…. See my other videos on clutch and sprig issues.👍
Yes you can. But only if you are putting the propeller back on too. It’s best to run the motor on your boat. I only used the bucket because it was winter. I kept adding snow to keep the water cool. If yea use a bucket, you should keep water running into the bucket to keep water cool. But best to take out and run motor on your boat. Thanks for watching 👍
I still have my motor.. I don't know why people comp[lain.. It is a working engine.. Right fuel mix, and remember the break in process and the engine will last you years.
I agree! I've run mine now for a little over 25 hours. The longer I run it the better it is running. It is by no means fast, but that isn't what I was expecting. I'm running the 50/1 mix now and it even runs clean with no oil residue at the exhaust ports. No rotting fuel lines, but we do have non-ethanol fuel available. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@BoilerDan1 I had my hangkai for like 6-7 years. I am still using it due to its light weight. I was out on the sea yesterday to put up fish nets. I sail very far out on it, so no one steal my fish or destroy my nets. There are plenty of fish and equipment thiefs on the water. It is probably time to change the spark plug as the engine started to choke a litle.. Beside that I dont have any problems with it. Also it is important to say that anyone who have the engine should not screw the fuel cap on hard, so the air can come in.. I had one fuel cap break because of that, and that too can be the cause of engine choking, if it cant suck in enough fuel. Your model is the new one with bigger tank.
TMike down in Cajun country says the problem with ethanol fuel, is the corn residue left in the carb and fuel lines. It will clog things up if the fuel sits in the float too long. I'd never heard that theory before.
You probably know better than me! I’d just heard that. But my fuel line did just snap off one day….. so I decided to just change them out on a regular basis. Not difficult or expensive. Thanks for watching and joining in on the conversation.👍👍
@BoilerDan1 I've always heard that the ethanol could harm the rubber hoses. To be brutally honest, I don't know jack about any of this stuff. I just enjoy people fixing things, bringing old motors back to life.
Hey boiler Dan thanks for your videos they've been a help ps I'm a subscriber but i got a question though. I got mine running in a bucket but it's not putting any water through the cooling system I don't know how long it's supposed to take it for that to happen cuz I don't want my motor to get too hot. It's running for like 5 minutes and didn't do anything figured it would have started cycling water through.
Very important: keep cool water running in the bucket! I kept dumping in snow! Better yet, break it in on your boat in the water. You must rev the motor enough for the clutch to engage. That may require almost full throttle! The throttle works on centrifugal force. If no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor. The clutch spring in these is too strong. I replaced mine and that helped a lot. You could even remove the spring during break in.... but realize that the propeller will always turn, so I wouldn’t do that all the time. Here’s a link to the video that mentions the spring. I ended up using the one from Menards, not the one I mention from Home Depot. ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html Regarding clutch replacement see the below two videos: ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html And after the spring replacement ua-cam.com/video/LdtITFx6N-Q/v-deo.html Let me know if that’s not clear and I’ll try to help.... But know that if the propeller isn’t turning and no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor.
@@BoilerDan1 I see what you mean I ran it almost full throttle and it was spitting water out like it should. I might replace the spring like you mentioned I'll have to check your videos out on that. Seriously man thanks a lot I appreciate it.
@@nicholasdupuis5721 It almost has idle and full speed and that’s it 😂. Seriously though, you need to run it fast enough to get the water spitting out. Just keep changing the speed. Even if you slow to an idle for 1 minute, then speed it back up enough to keep that clutch engaged! I think you’re understanding now... it does have to go fast as part of the break in process. Thanks for watching 👍👍
It's your lucky day! It is shown in one of my video's: Here is a link - ua-cam.com/video/NCALT3MKAEk/v-deo.html (PLEASE READ ALL THE BELOW 1ST) I can tell you very easily too: 1st you remove the pin holding it place. Kind of looks like a bobby pin. You will need to bend it back straight so it will slide out. Then take a flat head screwdriver and gently rock it between the propeller housing and the motor housing. It shows within the first minute in the video. Lastly, if you find the series helpful, and you have extra finances 😂.... Consider clicking the "THANKS" button below and to the right of any of my video's. You can then reward me financially for my help and efforts. Not required, and you would be surprised how even a $2 Thank You can inspire me to continue in my efforts. Regardless, thanks for watching and I'm happy to help out.
Fortunately in Indiana, the boat is registered not the individual motor. You’ll need to go to your BMV and apply for a title and for it and have a VIN number assigned similar to if you built your own boat trailer that doesn’t have a title or VIN NUMBER. Hopefully you get a clerk that knows how. You’ll probably need the bill of sale too. I’d suggest that you go talk to the BMV about it prior to purchasing.
Some BP stations sell ethanol free fuel. If your station has a pump that has a setting for the ethanol free fuel, there will be some leftover fuel in the hose that has ethanol fuel in it, so pump a small amount of fuel into your car first to get that fuel out of the hose. My local BP has a separate pump for the ethanol free fuel. Ethanol does a number on Chinese rubber that is carb parts and Chinese fuel hose detierates quickly from ethanol. If you have to buy true fuel. I know it is expensive but in the long run it is worth it for all the issues you will experience from ethanol. The guys who buy those Chinese scooters and motorcycles from Amazon have found out about Chinese rubber and how crappy it is.
Wonderful review. Thanks for all the detail. I want to buy a 6 hp 4 stroke. Your review indicates to me that the motors are good enough for the price, which is less than a third of a high brand motor. What's your feeling? Do you agree? It seems to be a bit on the loud side, which is a big deal to me. What do you think, compared to the more expensive brands?
For some unknown reason, I'm not seeing my reply? I will summarize here: I'm happy with my motor, but there are issues I've had to overcome. They are a little things and are posted in the several video's I've made on the motor. But noise compared to an expensive outboard motor is an issue. It's not as loud as a weed-wacker, but it is louder than any regular outboard motor. However the 4 stroke does have a muffler, so it might be quieter than my 2 stroke. The 2 stroke exhaust is underwater to be specific, so your not going to sneak up on any fish that's for sure! Sorry for the delay, but I"m sure I had responded, it's just not showing up here for some reason? Thanks for watching.
boiler up! hey how does the mix jug work? i just got one of these but the mix jug has no lines to show what level to fill the gas and oil to. I do have Chinese chainsaws and a Chinese leafblower that all came with multiple line mix jugs for different fuel ratios and I could use one of those as they all have a 35:1 option but figured I would use the one that came with the outboard as its the only 35:1 thing I have and I could keep it dedicated for the outboard.
Hammer Down (as they say😂👍). I’d use one of your old ones with the markings. The Hangkai web sight recommends the following: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline). Here’s a link to it: m.hang-kai.com/en/ I’m the upper left corner click on the 3 lines. Then click on “News”. You’ll find more information there. NOTE: 25:1 will leave an oil residue so I wouldn’t run that a long time. Then finish breaking in with 35:1. After that it’ll run clean on the 50:1 that they recommend. Back on the jug….. you could mark it yourself by first using your older one. Then pour into it the oil. Mark that. Then do same thing with the gas…. I bought a new one with markings on it 👍👍
@@BoilerDan1 so i did the 10 hr break in with all 25:1 mix, and i hav oil in air filter and in other places, planning on a 50:1 mix now, guessing that will fix all that
Hei. I have just purchased the Hangkai 3,5 HP and I have a question for you. What is the basic procedure to activate the propellar when it has started? There is no "gear handle" to activate the propellar, so is it something that you do on the trottle?
Yes, it’s by giving more power from the throttle. It has a centrifugal force type clutch that expands and causes the propeller to spin. In one of my later videos I show the clutch system too. In my opinion, the clutch spring is too strong and will cause the clutch to wear out sooner than it should. It’s a relatively easy replacement. I suggest that you watch the clutch replacement videos as eventually you’ll need to do that. Thanks for watching!
Not much more than a trolling motor! But thanks for watching 👍 I just realized that maybe you haven’t replaced the clutch tension spring? That would help. I’ll post a link to the video showing how. Check back in a minute
Try replacing the clutch tension spring. Here’s a how to video: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html here’s how to get to the clutch itself: ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
Yes! Well I’m not familiar with other two stroke outbreaks, but if I had it to do over, I’d reconsider getting the 4 stroke because it has a muffler. But this one is the same as all the other inexpensive 2 strokes out there. Thanks for watching 👍
Hey Dan hope things are well on your end. So here's my situation. I purchased this engine and broke it in for about 3 hrs with a 30-1 fuel mixture. I got a little impatient and attached it to my inflatable and took it out on my lake. Engine started fine but when I gave it full power....the boat do not go forward. ??? If I was to change the mixture to 50-1 will the motor have more power so that it will move the boat?
No, the problem is more than likely the clutch. The spring on the motor is too strong for this application. In one of my other videos I replaced it and that helped a lot. The other possibility is that the bolts holding the clutch are too tight not allowing the clutch pads to pivot outward. Your idea of breaking it in on your boat is the best way to do it. I’ve had several others experience this same issue..... So you’re going to start out getting to know your motor better. I picked up a lighter spring at a local hardware store. The ends were coiled but I was able to bend them open to make them fit. I’ll look up the videos and send another reply with the links to them.
Here is one on the spring I used: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html This is one of me removing the old clutch: ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html Now here is one of putting it back together: ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html I hope all works out well with yours. I'd suggest you go ahead and order a back-up clutch. You can get them from Amazon: examples 1. With bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2. Without bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09QFVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One other note: I was advised to not use the anti seize product. But do use the thread locker that I mention in the videos. Put it directly on the bolt about 1/2 up from the start of the threads. You can probably see on your bolts where it was used in assembling the motor at the factory. Also remember that this is an aluminum block motor, so don't overtighten anything....
@@BoilerDan1 Thank you SOOOO much for replying so quickly....is this motor powerful enough for a 12ft Saturn Heavy Duty inflatable? I am asking this because if it is not, then I would purchase a more powerful engine and save the time of fixing the clutch issue. What is your take on this......thanks again for your videos.
The problem I have had is that the motor would push into the raft because of my raft not having a good motor mount system for attaching the motor to the raft. It would allow the motor to tilt which in turn caused me to lose some thrust. I’m assuming that your raft is of a better design for attaching a motor? With that being said, it’s a pretty small motor and you are not going to get a lot of speed with it. In calm water I think you should get forward movement similar to someone running or jogging? Like in the 5 mph range? But if you’re going to use it where there is a current..... I think you’d be happier with something with more power. I suggest do more searching on UA-cam and find a video of someone using it on something similar to your needs. 12 ft. And if you put in 3 or 4 people, that might be too much for this little motor. It did ok for me with 2 total in the raft. Wish I could be more specific about the issue, but I don’t know, but it does sound like your clutch isn’t engaging enough because you should be getting more thrust than what you explained earlier.
I always used premium hoping that would have less ethanol, however now most stores Hardware like Menards and even Walmart are selling non-ethanol fuel in the stores in the lawnmower areas. The ethanol deteriorates the fuel lines. But I think you can also get ethanol resistant fuel lines now!
Outstanding detailed review! Thanks for taking the time and share such valuable knowledge and information. I was planing to buy a 2.5 suzuki to put on a excursion 5 inflatable boat, but after watching this video, I'll definitely get one of these hangkai 3.6. I'll make sure to change those ful lines for better ones. Hopefully it will do fine with salt water. Thanks.
Some additional things to consider is the clutch system is very weak and wears out quickly. Changing the tension spring will add a lot of life to it. You can see the change I made in my video on putting in a new clutch (actually two video's, one removable and the second installation. Not a difficult task as I'm not a mechanic and was able to figure it out on my own 😂. But I'd consider ordering a spare clutch to have available. Regarding saltwater.... I've seen complaints that the water cooling tub rotted out? Again, it's a simple tube that you could replicate with a similar diameter copper tubbing... Running the motor in a tube of fresh water when on shore would flush it out.... There is a 4 hp hangkai out there that is air cooled. Might be a better choice? I've got several video's out on the 3.6 hp, so keep my link handy for things you might run into if you do get one. Don't over pay... I don't think it's worth $300. I paid under $200 and was happy with that even with some of the issues. I appreciate your taking the time to provide positive feedback for my efforts. I was just documenting my journey... Not realizing how successful it would be! 👍👍. 1. Clutch replacement - ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html 2. Clutch installation - ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
@@BoilerDan1 Thanks a lot Dan. I think I have watched all your videos. I'm a car mechanic, so hopefully won't have any problems with those parts replacement. I have one last question, can you tell if a 6hp motor will be too much for one of those excursion inflatables? For me, it seems the restriction is the motor mount that comes with those boats, but I'm guessing with a sturdy mount connected directly to wooden floor and to the boat mounts, and that goes over the inflatable might be possible. What do you think? And thanks again for all the great videos!
rubenvor : I’d be concerned about it handling that much power. The index brand is a entry level raft. There’s some sturdier ones out there. But yes if you can mount the motors weight and thrust to the wood floor it definitely would help. But I’d seriously consider a more sea worthy raft 👍
Yes it does require mixing the oil and fuel together. They do make one that they are separate too. I went with the one I bought because I needed to lay it sideways to transport it. That can be a problem for the one with the oil separate as it can drain back into the cylinder fouling out the spark plug. Thanks for watching 👍👍
First off I want to say thank you for your detailed videos on this Hangkai motor. My fist experience with this was last summer when I purchased a used 12f Pelican jon boat that came with a 2 stroke 3.5hp motor. Of course it only worked once but I don't think it was properly taken care of in the first place. I have watched many vidoes about this motor some good some not so good. Being that all the good American outboards are far outside my price range I bought a brand new Hangkai 4 Stroke 4hp. I have followed all your videos and they are great. But we all know the instructions are terrible. I was wondering about how much oil it takes on initial fill up. The dipstick must have been made by a dipstick. Lol. It is very confusing on the marks and the picture in the instructions makes it look like you should fill it to the point you can look down the fill hole and actually see the oil. I would appreciate any input on this. Thank you.
I purchased the 2 cycle version (mix of oil & gas). I choose it due to the fact that I have to lay the motor down in the back of a Subaru Forester. I read that the 4 cycle because it holds the oil can also leak out if you lay it on the wrong side...? But to answer your question the best I can... It sounds like a similar system to some lawnmowers. You fill until it almost runs out but not quite.... With the 4 cycle, it's more like a car, you have oil in a reservoir that gets splashed or circulated on the engine parts and you will change it from time to time. The 2 cycle you add it to the gas and it burns up with no bulk amount of oil in the engine. For sure still do a gentle break in, as well as add good gear oil....I'm sure it came with none too. I'm in the process of making my final "On the water" test video. I'll post it when complete. Then I will add more if and when I have any complications. Thanks for your encouragement. Wish I could provide specifics on your 4 cycle motor.
Here is something else I found. It's helpful hints from the manufacturer. Some how to kind of things. www.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp But I didn't find anything on oil capacity...sorry.
Thank you for your reply I realize I was looking at the wrong videos when I asked my question. sorry about that. I just started my motor and it started right up and sounds great but I noticed that even when idle is turned up there is not water coming out the water exhaust port ( or whatever it is called) that is half way up the shaft. Just wondering if yours is that way? I already took the cover off to make sure there is no blockage and there is nothing.
I think you stated that you purchased the 4 cycle motor. From what I have seen on line, it is air cooled instead of water cooled. So you won't have water coming out. Here is a link of what I think you ordered and this one is air cooled. www.ebay.com/itm/2-4-Stroke-Outboard-Motor-Fishing-Boat-Motor-Engine-7HP-6-5-6HP-4HP-3-6-3-5HP/332632568029?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50544%26meid%3D4972393d25644486946bd62579ac2faa%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282595525253%26itm%3D332632568029&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 HOWEVER if your model is watert cooled, water will only come out when you speed the motor up above idle. It has a clutch that allows the motor to idle without the propeller moving. So if you speed the motor up so that the propeller is turning, then water will come out if - it is fact a water cooled type. You can also see the water tubes when you remove the engine cover. On mine they are black plastic with one inlet going in on one side of the piston area and the outlet on the exhaust pipe side. At the 14:52 time mark of this video link you can see the two clips and tubes on the sides of the motor. They are the water cooling tubes. Here is the video that shows it> again fast forward to the 14:52 time mark. ua-cam.com/video/322Aq735A9c/v-deo.html
It is in fact air cooled. I did wonder if that was the case and now it makes complete sense. I greatly appreciate your help and look forward to watching more of your vides. Thank you very much for your time.
Enlighten me? What is a predator? I hadn't fished or boated since I was in High School. I'm just winging it with this project.... But I will add that the motor gets better the more I run it! :0)
Look at the air cooled Honda 2.3hp or Briggs and Stratton , there are many similar setups on ebay and other manufacturers like Mud Buddy etc. It's been done and they suck too.
Hi.. really helpfull video thanks.. .. just wondering i have recently purchased the 3.6hp as shown in video.. im in process of running it in and find the engine needs abit of gas.. before the prop/ propeller spin... is this normal for this engine.. or should it be spinning while idling. Thanks alot in advance..
In idle the prop won’t spin, it works on centrifugal force. Similar but opposite like brakes on a car. When you accelerate a clutch expands and engages a brake like pad that in turn makes the propeller shaft spin. I’m going to put a link below because you really should consider replacing the clutch spring. It’s too strong for this motor and it causes the pad to wear out very fast. I’ve got two others that show how to replace the clutch as well. Here’s the link to spring replacement: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html
Also, you can break your motor in while using. I just don’t have a lake nearby. Also keep cool water running at all times if in a barrel. I kept adding snow but didn’t show that on video. You don’t want to over heat it. I’ve made 16 or so videos on the motor. I’d suggest you watch them all, especially on repairs 😉. It can be a fun little motor but you will have to work on it from time to time 👍 Thanks for watching 👍👍
Thanks alot for fast reply.. im hoping to have a little time over the weekend .. so i think id best watch your vids on the subject.. thanks take care..
Hi Dan , I realized you said a Champion cj8 ace didnt have one they suggested a cj7 and after changing the plug and adding new fuel it doesnt start at all? COULD IT BE THE PLUG??
Yes! I’d suggest NKG plug. Here’s a video on it. I list the number with the first 30 seconds of the video. I’m not home or I’d look it up and list it here. But I’m guessing using the cj7 isn’t gapped right? Watch this one: ua-cam.com/video/JUaHjwJSglw/v-deo.html
No, in Indiana, the boat is what is registered not the motor. So that wasn’t an issue. Check with your states BMV, you might be able to have a number assigned for the motor if needed. If you look through my other videos, you’ll find one on how I registered a raft that I put the motor on. Here’s a link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/JP1YFfuIV00/v-deo.html Thanks for watching 👍
hi sir you seem to be good with outboards. i have an outboard where water is not coming out of the water discharge, its water cooled. it runs ok other than this, what do you think keeping it from discharging water? i ran it for a few minutes before i noticed no water discharged from the pee hole/water discharge hole.
If it is the exact same Hangkai 3.6 hp motor.... It has a very simple plastic water impeller that is attached to the rod that runs the propeller. At an idle speed the propeller does not turn, nor will the water impeller. If you are running it while on your boat, it is sometimes hard to see the water coming out. It's not all that much that comes out. So to be sure, run the motor by setting it up inside a large tub of water. Then you can actually confirm that no water is coming out. There is also an opening that has a filter grill on the underside of the flat part of the shaft below the waterline. That is where the water enters. Make sure it is not blocked by debris. You can also unhook one of the actual black water lines going in/out of the motor. They have a simple spring clip. Once unhooked, you can confirm if water is or is not coming out. If no water is coming out, then the blades of the plastic wheel impeller might be damaged? The motor came with a spare water impeller, so you might need to replace it? I've not done that as of yet, but if you research some more on UA-cam, maybe you can find something on that topic.
The hose that pees out sides only purpose is so u can see that waters pumping disconnect hose from water jacket check if clog or try without if no water then u need pull gear case and check water pump
Good suggestion, I originally thought that the person might be running at idle speed under which circumstances the water pump will not run. I hope he takes your advise too. Thanks for commenting.
No! You want the motor to run at various speeds but not full speed. It also must run fast enough so that the propeller turns so that water flows to cool the motor. You can hear the clutch disengage, it a little bit of a slipping metallic sound. Once you start the motor rec it up so the propeller engauges, then back it off to slower speeds, then keep it going but vary your speeds up and down. I let it remain on one speed for up to 30 minutes.... But I'm the first hour or two, I'd change the speed every 10 to 15 minutes.
In my earlier reply, there were a couple of auto corrected words that were wrong. Ie… "rec" should have been "rev". The last sentence should have read... But in the first hour or two, I'd change the speed ever 10 - 15 minutes. Hope you were able to figure it out
@@BoilerDan1 what happens if you don’t run it for 10 hrs? I only broke mine in for 2 hours. Took it on the water ran great couple of times. Now doesn’t start!
In hindsight, the 4 stroke would have been a better choice overall. I chose 2 stroke so I could lay it sideways to transport….. Thanks for watching and commenting
Mine never has snapped and I actually ran up on a shallow spot bumping along on a rocky bottom (small quarter size rocks and sand). But I did lose one out in my lawn when I had removed the propeller but forgot to remove the pin.... it was somewhere in the grass but I couldn’t find it.... I carried a spare in my tackle box too. I made extra using a brass rod. I think that’s what they are made of, apparently brass will snap under pressure. The diameter was slightly smaller but it works! I don’t remember getting 3 with mine? I bet they are hiding in my garage somewhere? I’ll have to do a deep dig to find them! 😂 You: Keep living the dream! My location was 28 degrees overnight (-2 Celsius) 🥶
Took me a minute to figure out what you were referring too? But I do have the answer. It is an extra water wheel used in the water cooling system. With the motor you get an extra one of those plus an extra pull start cord/spring assembly. Sorry I didn't point that part out in the video. Thanks for watching and asking.
You’re welcome. I’ve made several videos on my experience with the Hangkai motor. It’s not for everyone, but I have enjoyed playing with it! Including a few repairs 😂 Thanks for watching 👍👍
Sorry I can't specifically answer your question. I've never used a battery powered trolling motor. I can tell you that I chose to go with this little gas powered motor to eliminate the battery lugging around and the possibility of running out of power. That being said, if you watch a few more of my video's you can see me going up stream. The river (Wabash) has a pretty swift current. More than I ever realized growing up in the area. Going upstream, by looking at the shore line, it's a little faster than walking, but definitely not even a slow jog. Going downstream however, I'd estimate about 7 mph. I hope that helps you some. A part of me thinks the 4 cycle (4 stroke) would be a better choice? I had some left over fuel from last season.... Finally decided to try burning it off in a all metal Tiki torch. That worked, but I don't recommend that... Just saying what I did. With the 4 cycle, any left over could be put in a vehicle.
One other thing to add to my first reply.... If you have a more solid boat, that is still light weight, I think you will do better going upstream. I have mine on a spongy air filled raft and I'm sure I lose some thrust do to that.
Thanks, WOW this saved MY ASS, I was told this is a plug and play ready to go just add fuel. I am happy I found this video. I am now going to get some SAE 90 , I will grab a cj8 as well.( just incase ) LOL Thanks again
When I started my journey and decided to film it I had no idea of what I would run into! Nor how my efforts would help others like me! Just wanted to play around and not spend a lot of money! Although you’ll be doing some work on it, it’s pretty easy and I actually enjoyed it all! Thanks for watching 👍👍
Water cooled but that only functions when the propeller is turning. The pump is a flywheel that turns with the shaft going to the propeller.. So you wouldn’t want to sit running at idle speed for long periods of time. It does have some air cooling vents too. Personally I think the motor itself as far as the the block and piston are good. But I’d encourage you to watch my whole series of videos on the motor. It’s the little things that can cause issues. #1 is the clutch spring. It’s too tight for the motor. So plan on replacing the clutch almost seasonally. I’d recommend replacing the spring even at break in! Also order a spare clutch so you have one when needed. Spark plug replacing and bee waxing the pull cord is important too. Lately the price has been too high. Under $300 is ok.... but it’s not worth anything more as you will need to be able to make adjustments as you’ll see in my other videos. But all in all I’m happy with mine.... I’ll mention that breaking in the motor is important. You can do that while using it. I did it in a bucket but if you do that keep cool water running in it. I kept adding snow but didn’t show that on the videos. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for the confirmation. I had others tell me that too. So I did not change anything with the little air filter, I'll leave it as is. Thanks for watching and sharing your advise!
@@BoilerDan1 Welcome Dan, had a feeling I wasn't the first one to point that out. Probably not the first one to point this out, either. But you can clean that filter every couple of years. The manual should have the procedure. Real simple if they don't. Wash in dishwashing detergent, air dry, and then a light coat of mineral oil or ATF.
I always add a little marvel mystery oil in my mix and ethanol stabilize in mine since all the gas in Massachusetts has 10 percent I’ll be switching out the cheap gas lines at the end of the year
an ethanol blend - Yes I would think if you replace the lines with better ones it would be fine. I also had someone tell me the lines will go bad regardless. So I will keep an eye on mine for the first season.
Any gas with ethanol well eventually gum up the jets in the carburetor. Always use non-Ethanol gas on any engine with a carburetor especially a 2 stroke
Let me update: Tom (see below) is probably totally correct, don't use any ethanol. But if you are in a state that only offers ethanol blended fuels you might try this: I found that there are products that help with ethanol problems. I've cut and pasted info. (can get at Amazon, Walmart...Other places too. Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers was developed to specifically address issues associated with using ethanol based fuels. This applies to E-10, E-15, E-85, pure ethanol and any mixtures in between including gasoline. Our Product is completely soluble in all ethanol fuels and will not harm filters. Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers contains effective additives to prevent rust and corrosion associated with the use of ethanol fuels. Key Benefits Recommended for use in automobile and marine applications. Cleans injectors, valve seats, combustion chambers and other critical fuel components Stabilizes fuel and prevents varnish & gum formation in ethanol and gasoline Combats deposits and protects your engine oil lubricants from the harmful effects of alcohol combustion NOT RECOMMENDED FOR DIESEL APPLICATIONS One ounce treats five gallons of ethanol fuel. Our new 5.25 oz bottle treats up to 25 gallons (94.6 liters) of ethanol fuel.
35 to 1 for the break-in period. That way your getting a little extra oil for better lubricating. It will result in a little oil residue, but that will go away once you are done with the break-in period. Remember to not go full speed during break-in, and vary your speeds over that time too.
I’ve always liked Valvoline products and they do make 2cycle oil: Valvoline 2-Stroke TC-W3 Certified Outboard Marine Conventional Motor Oil 16 Fluid Ounce I checked and you can get it from Walmart…. But any good 2 cycle oil will work fine. The valvoline product listed under $11 for a quart. You can find some cheaper in the store. But a quart will make several gallons of fuel/oil mix. Thanks for watching 👍👍
Dan I hope you are doing well. I live in Muncie, I got one of the motors for my basstender 11.3 (if you are not familure with them great little boats). Anyway, I am watching the videos, I do not have any questions about them yet. I was just wondering where the boat ramp is that you put the boat in video 8. the ramp is nice and low, I have a small suv that I pull my little boat with and have issues finding places I can access the rivers with. i am sure it would pull most of the ramps, But what if it doesnt? them I am in trouble. If you do not mind I would love to know the location of this ramp. I know some people are guarded about fishing places, I am not taking any fish I just like to fish, I am always alone and will not share the information unless you said it was ok to do. Thanks so much. Bryan Wedmore
Good to have you along my video journey! No problem sharing the location. It’s a free location to anyone. Just Google Fort Ouiatenon. In Tippecanoe County. It’s rarely used except for one weekend in the fall. It’s access to the Wabash, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised with several log areas where there are great spots for bass! Give it a try someday. Thanks for watching 👍😂
@@BoilerDan1 Your videos are so helpful. If there are big log area then Id guess there are flat head cat fish also. I am learning how to fish for cat fish, yep at 58 I am going to learn a new fishing technic. should be fun. I will google map the place. again thanks for the info. real quick do you think it is safe to park suv in the lot at night? Bryan
Hmmm, it’s a State or maybe County park that I think closes at night. There’s a state park campground called Prophet’s Town. It’s not exciting but newer and safe! The two locations are 13 miles apart. I’d feel safe at both places. There’s parking at the fishing place but no staffing. They may close a gate at night, but I’m not sure.
@@BUGMAN-22 Our sons name is also Bryan (small world). I thought of another spot. It’s very isolated and maybe not gated at night. Anyway, it’s a little further downstream. Name is Granville Park. Here’s a link, they have several photos. If you goggles a satellite map of the area, you’ll see it out in the middle of nowhere!’ www.wabashriver.us/access_points/granville_park/index.htm
Dan the Champion plug is about as good as the one that failed so put an NGK in , Way better than rowing and most of these Chinese engines have cast iron piston rings so have a long break in period so plenty of short trips with a cool down in between as well.
I’m trying to decide to go with this or an old faithful Johnson or Evinrude from late 50s-70s. I’ll probably give one of these a shot and if it fails me, I’ll go with an old battle axe Johnson or Evinrude.
Just make sure you check out my other videos. I've done a lot of tweaking, and recently replaced the clutch as well. I think if you are handy and don't mind working on the motor, it can serve you well. But there are issues. (spark plug, fuel lines, gas cap vent, clutch, lose wire on cutout switch... So check out my other videos so you know what to expect. All in all it runs well, but it's not without issues... Power, noise...… But I do still like mine. Thanks for watching.
BoilerDan1 Alright. I’m extremely handy. The way I see it, if I buy an old motor I’m going to have to tear into it unless someone else got it running and it’s cost will likely reflect that. I think I’m going to buy one of these an an old Evinrude as a project to fix as a more permanent solution. But, we shall see I have a little while to think on it. Thanks for your reply. I will check out your other videos. I subscribed also. Take care!
Keep you eye open for a good deal! Especially if you are in no rush. The prices on eBay fluctuate. I paid $181.00 in late December. Just to give you an idea. Have fun!
Sorry, I don’t. However in hindsight If to buy another one I would go with the 4hp 4 stroke. The 3.6 hp mixing oil and gas makes the leftover fuel had to get rid of at the end of the season.... I’d hope that the clutch system would be improved in the 4hp but I don’t know that either? Thanks for watching 👍
@@dannyt5305 I ordered it, an email was sent from eBay saying the product shipped. Then I got an email from the seller saying his eBay account is under review. It wasn't supposed to be delivered yet, but after talking with some people it's become apparent it was a scam. I was weary about it when buying, I figured I'd take the $16 gamble.
Ha, ha... We'll see? It will be late spring when I give it a try. I will post a video of the event! I take it up stream on a local river and will wait until the spring floods recede. Stay tuned 😬
this is my girlfriends UA-cam account I am commenting from haha Man thanks for taking the time to make this video and share your knowledge it’s been very helpful.
There are several video's that I've made on my motor. It's been quite the journey! All in all I'm happy with it, but there have been issues.... Keep watching! I've replaced the spark plug, fuel lines twice, and the clutch. The clutch replacement wasn't difficult and I used a lighter spring which has really helped. Check those out when you get a chance. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Hope she didn't mind!
Yes, I made several videos of my journey with the motor. You’ll need to view them to get an idea of what all I did! There were a few times that I got discouraged with it, however I worked through each issue and ended up being happy with the purchase.... but I’m getting a little older and one item I’d do different is the plywood floor of my raft. It became too cumbersome for me to load and assemble by myself. If I were under 65 it would be fine but pushing 69 and 70 just around the corner!😲... Well, someone recently made me an offer to buy it all, so I sold it.... The motor is doing fine but I don’t own it now. The buyer is familiar with Hangkia and owns another one as well. I’m considering buying a raft with a floor built in that’s lighter weight.... and maybe try the air cooled motor? Thanks for watching and I hope the videos I made will continue to help others with theirs or decide whether to buy one or not 👍
There is a small flywheel water pump down by the propeller. It’s not visible without taking it apart. So you can’t increase the water flow. The motor is a combination of water and air cooled. The water pump only operates when the propeller turns, so no water will come out when you are at idle.
I do not know. Sorry. I just recorded my experience with the motor. There is a copper tube that goes through from the pump up to the motor. I’ve attached a link to a video that shows the tube. Maybe you could tie into it? Part 1. ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html Part 2. ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
i think ill have to check and see if i can find fuel line and a primer bubble that will handle ethinal because thats all we have in my area. i just bought one of these and will be beginning the break in next week
Hope my videos help! One important thing, I have been told that in breaking in the motor, to leave the propeller on. Also if using a bucket, keep running cool water constantly. I’m also trying to find better fuel lines. I’m going to check at a local lawnmower repair shop. Thanks for watching!
I use the highest grade of fuel and have found an additive that says it will counter the effects of ethanol. I purchased the additive at Wal-Mart. Can should prepare yourself to replace the clutch..... I've posted a video on that too 😅
Congrats for making this heap of junk to look almost like something what actually works. I bought one of these about 8 months ago. Didn't work properly from the start so I contacted the supplier. Without much fuss, he simply sent me another one and didn't want the old one back. Definitely kudos for PR here - but that is where the positives end. The new motor broke down after 10 minutes of use (the seal on the leg shaft wasn't properly pressed in and let water in the upper part) and from that point everything went downhill. The weakest spot is the cooling system that has so many issues you can bottle them (I am not wasting my time going into details here) and from there the problem cascades to other parts. At this stage I ran already of spare parts I used from the first engine and I have just order new clutch bearing, the clutch arms, down shaft seals and spark plug. I can't remember one single trip longer than 1 mile I would have finished without having to use oars or asking somebody to tow me. I anybody is going to buy this gizmo after reading the above, well, good luck. You need it.
Excellent review! If mine does start falling apart, I will make a more negative video. I've probably got less than 40 hours run time on it. We will see what happens this summer. I also only go upstream, just in case I have a breakdown. I have documented some issues I have had in either comments or additional videos. I hope those considering one reads reviews and follow along as time progresses.....and check out the follow-up videos that I've put out there. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
@@BoilerDan1 My pleasure! By the way, if you bin the motor (and that is what you should do to save yourself money and frustration), keep the instructional manual. Absolutely top entertaining value, worth the price you paid for the motor :-). And printed on a top quality glossy paper too! The author's mother shouldn't have marry her brother ;-). BTW: if you are using the motor in a reasonably cold environment and fresh water, it may JUST do the job. I am using it at Australian Coral Sea and the idiotically designed cooling system is just not up to the job here.
Thanks Dan. I'm retired too and have a new Hangkai in my shed ready for me to fire up. It helps when somebody else has been to the trouble of trouble shooting problems, to reduce problems for other people.
Great encouragement for me! I'll be adding more.... The pull start has a defective plastic piece that comes lose. It can result in the pull cord catching when you release it too fast (Mine did and broke the cord.
Solution. glue that little guide into place and wrap it with a little electrical tape too. I'll make a shorter video soon showing exactly what happened and the fix.
I was getting ready to do a 25 hour run time review. When I removed the cover to pre-inspect the motor, one of the fuel lines broke off. I will definitely add in a recommendation to change the fuel lines at the time of purchase. It did spew gas around until I removed the cap to relieve pressure.. Could be a serious fire risk if there had been any spark around.
I'll cover this in my next video post.
from where did you buy the fuel lines?
Ran Sue : Fuel lines from Amazon. Here’s the link. HIFROM Replace 4-Feet Fuel Line Hose Tube (4 Size) I.D. x O.D. 3/32" x 3/16" 1/8" x 3/16" 1/8" x 1/4" 0.080" x 0.140" for Poulan Craftman Chainsaw String Trimmer Blower www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSP00U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z5ebFbNK2W8W3
@@BoilerDan1 Thank you sir
Why no lube when you got it? Now I know. Because shipping don’t allow oil to go.
Oh, while you got it running, you could cruise over to the neighbors, 3 houses down, your brother is in his boat, but needs a tow back to the main yard. The neighborhood kids are complying he is disturbing their snorkel class in the snow. Brahaha! All these small 2 cycle motor have their quirks, but when broke in, they are great. I had a 7 hp Eska back in 1973, it ran good and powerfull. Enjoyed it very much, especially after I got the bugs worked out. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks for watching. I hope to take it on a full day (downstream journey) passing by a little cabin my parents had along the Tippecanoe River. Just waiting for water levels to return to normal! It'll be about a 20 mile trip, so it should be a good test of the motor now that it is broken-in. Speaking of the "snow snorkel class", I remember taking an old V bottom boat of my dads out in the winter when there was a thin sheet of ice extending out on the river about 10 feet. I went slow, pretending the boat was an ice breaker and chipped away at the ice. It was an old two cycle motor on it.... Wish I still had it!
But I wouldn't repeat the bit of foolishness again!
…...What were my parents thinking :0-(
To pull out the starter rope for maintenance, just pull it out and tie a loose removable knot in the rope near the starter housing. Also although it has a water pump, this machine is actually air cooled. The water pump only cools the exhaust tuner. It won’t harm the engine to run it without water pumping but it will melt the cowling and stuff
Good to know regarding the cooling system! Thanks for watching and taking the time to provide some valuable information!👍👍
Thanks Dan, very usefull videos, just wish I had seen it or spent the time to look over my Hangkai 3.6HP before taking it out. I have mine mounted off the side of a canoe, its really just an inexpensive project. First failure was the choke setting. After inspecting the air filter I realised the choke settings were backwards and got it going in a bucket. Next time out my pull start and claw pawl failed with bits everywhere. $20 on ebay and I’m good to go again. Maybe this time.
Ive added marine grade 75-90 gear oil to the gear box. Marine grade silicone grease to the seals and shaft. Pulled the water pump apart and coated all surfaces with the silicone grease and put it back together with thread lock. Couldn’t get a NGK-BM6Y, got a NGK-BPMR7A and a Honda/Denso W22MPR-U.
Thanks for sharing. I didn't indicate in my early videos that when using a bucket, make sure you keep the water cool. Running a hose so it doesn't overheat. I actually kept adding snow and ice but failed to show that.
Sounds like my videos have helped! Especially on the backwards choke! Also put some new wax on that pull cord, it will last a lot longer..... Mine shows no wear at all (0:
Thanks Dan, the water stayed cool, started fist pull. Thanks, my cord came waxed as with the spare, the new one wasn’t though. I was tempted to canabalise into an electric and like the look of the Hangkai 4HP electric I found on Aliexpress but Ill stick to the gas for now.
I have had zero problems with my hangkia 3.5. It did not have oil in gear box that was easy fix. Also replaced plug wires cj8 replacement "E"nergy premium plug from Home depot. Aside from that engine as easy to maintain as garden " weed whacker." On my inflatable Sea Eagle ex380 we fly along. Easily 7-9 mph depending on tidal flow.
I'm very happy with mine too. I have yet to run it in a calm water environment like a lake or pond. No tidal flows in Indiana! :0) I agree, the motor is a very simple design, and parts look easy to come by via eBay.
I hope to soon get on a small lake and see how it does in calm water. I expect the 7-9 mph you described.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent review thank you. Don't think I will get one, don't fancy risking my life half a mile out to sea. You helped me to decide on this engine.
Thanks, glad to help! I wouldn’t take it out to sea either!👍👍
They are pond small lake motors. Best for jon fishing boats.
Hey Dan. The idea of a filter for the intake of the carburetor is a mute point because outboard motors don't use an air filter anyhow . The environment that they operate has little dust and there is to much of a chance of moisture getting them wet and choking the airflow. All and all a great review and informed review. Thanks and we will be awaiting the on the water review.
Not the first to point that out to me. Fortunately I had not changed it, and I will leave as is! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I hope to make a full day journey on a small river that I'm familiar with (Tippecanoe River)... Once the water levels come down to normal!
Thinking of buying a small personal boat so I can visit the river and lakes here in my area
I would recommend something a little more solid than the raft I put together. I lost thrust because it to squishy. So spend a little more and find a better design!
Thanks for watching 👍
Dan, I read somewhere that this little motor is really a "1.5".. Either way, it'sa step upfrom a electric trolling motor. Even though I don't need one, I'd still like to have one. My fishing buddy gave me his "OLD" jon boat. As long as it gets me to where I wanta go to and back, this motor is for me .. Thanks man
Point A to point B it will do. It should push a Jon boat a lot better than an air filled raft! It’s a bit noisy but it sounds good for what you’re wanting to accomplish.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
There are little issues so I encourage you to watch more of my videos…. Especially on replacing the clutch. I’m no mechanic and am able to do it. Parts are available through eBay and some from Amazon too 👍👍
Hi thanks for the tutorial I was given a 3.5 older mode, l had to check it out but runs fine no problems I didn't know about the oil next to the prop so will check it tomorrow. Keep up the good work.
Hi there I have had some experience with servicing outboard motors, I suggest your comment about the air filter being inadequate is really not that important simply because outboard motors are never used in conditions where dust is an issue.
Most outboard motors use some kind of spark arrester type of devise where an air filter would normally be fitted in case of backfire igniting leaking fuel.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have not replaced it, so your input will be put to use :0)
Thank you for the review and detailed "take apart". The build quality scares me. You just saved me a couple hundred bucks.
Mr. Raab I’m glad you found the review useful. Although I am very happy with the motor, I understand you not wanting to take the risk or messing with it. For me it’s an adventure!
Thanks again for watching.
No guts…no glory! Hangkai separates the men from the boys. It is fun…because it really is a Honda motor under disguise!😊
The name should have been “Hond-Kai.”
@Okinanam69 Ha😂. You nailed it! You’ve got to love tinkering and then you’ll enjoy the adventure!
It will work for your needs. Be sure to add gear lube and take your time breaking it in for several hours at medium and slower speeds.
I'm going to get one of these. Seems pretty straight forward. Worth the expense and time. I'm going to use it on a Paddle boat. Great detailed video. Thanks
They seem to work for some, not for everyone. But if you tinker with motors it’s works fine. The clutch is an issue, but swapping out the tension spring helps, and regularly replacing it! Not hard to work on…
Good luck with yours, and thanks for watching 👍👍
By far one of the best review/demos I’ve watched on any product. It’s appreciated by many. Have you had the opportunity to try it under a load yet? Would you purchase again?
Thanks! I have not had a chance to try it out on the water yet. I will test it out as soon as the water levels here go down. Near record floods on the Tippecanoe river where I'd like to run my test. Hopefully early April 2018. I also discovered that in Indiana you must register and title a raft if putting any motor on it. I completed that this morning. (I may make a video on that process as you have to get special forms from the seller.)
I will continue making video's with any little snags that occur as I use it. I would definitely buy it again. Mid-winter it was just under $200. It will probably go up a little due to seasonal demands. But for my use, spending upwards of $1,000 wasn't going to happen..
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Finnegan Mario instablaster :)
@Adrian Jaxton Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Adrian Jaxton it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
The first good video on UA-cam about this outboard. Thanks, it was very helpful.
Thanks!
You said you paid less than $200? That's amazing! That is about a quarter of the price of more mainstream brands of similar rated power. Very tempting to give it a try.
The block of the motor seems very solid to me. Some of the exterior parts are questionable, but I've replaced some of those things. I've mentioned before that I do like the motor and it continues to run just fine. The price does seem to fluctuate, so if you keep your eye open, I bet you kind find a good deal too. I did buy mine between Christmas and New Years Day. Maybe it was a slow time? I've gotten more than $200 in fun with it for sure!
@@BoilerDan1
Yes l just order same one from ebay for 180$ . It was fantastic deal
I saw one for 30
www.ebay.com/itm/4hp-4-Stroke-Outboard-Manual-Start-Tiller-Short-Shaft-F4BMS-Ex-Display/183881521211?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dff82a6e861d0435cb41c19356f50f278%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D123767604233%26itm%3D183881521211%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I just bought one of these motors - my is called a Seahorse but basically the same motor - little different in cover design. Anyway thanks for your videos Boiler Dan you kept me from having to deal with a lot of repairs/modifications. I just got the gear oil, marine grease, new spark plug and will use bow string wax instead of the bees wax since I couldn't find it today. Thanks again and I'll let you know how well it works on my first outing this weekend after I get all the tips you provided done.
Glad to hear my videos have helped! It will be better doing the break-in during the summer.
On the gear oil... Don't over fill it. I discovered there is a line inside the casing. There is also markings on the outside that says fill to here.... very faint but it is there. And if you've watched all of them, you know not to overtighten those nuts!
In the summer, you can take it out and just run it slow and medium until your tired of running. Keep track of the time run. The more I have run mine, the smoother it has gotten. Although I haven't even gotten out this summer at all.... The water is still too high for going out in a raft. A hard shell boat would be better. But I'll get out eventually!
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
to honest it doesn’t look bad , i appreciate the review
I had a lot of fun with it!
Thanks for watching 👍
So it does not have a transmission and the water pump is keyed to the prop drive shaft. So if the prop is not turning neither is the water pump. How long can it be ran in neutral without cooling water before the motor burns up?
That I don’t know? The motors block has some cooling fins that might help some? But I’m guessing that you would want it to sit in idle for long periods of time. They offer a 4 cycle that is air cooled, and if I had it to do over again, I would probably get that model. The 2 cycle doesn’t have a muffler, it sends the exhaust out below the water line.... so the fish will definitely hear you coming! It’s basically to get you from point A to B. Not for trolling!
Thanks for watching 👍
I just bought a 1985 Johnson 4.5 ho two cylinder for 300 CAD, it’s had little use and runs great, I thought about a Chinese motor, but the Johnson will run for years, even tho that engine is new, you don’t get any warranty
Boiler Dan 1, can the tiller handle be reversed? I am trying to use it on a kayak and the motor would be in front of me, it will be facing forward.
In looking at the handle, it does appear that you could simple un-bolt it from the motor and turn it around. The throttle cable may need disconnected and reconnected so that it doesn't have a twist in it. However, I'm not sure how well suited the motor will be on a lightweight kayak? Especially in the front? Although I think I recall the motor weighs less than 25 lbs. The thrust / pull of the propeller could become an issue? Also, the motor is a bit loud. There is no muffler, it just vents below the water line.... So not good for trolling.
But from point A to point B it would do the job...... but I suggest you review all my videos, so you are aware of the issues I ran in to. It's not for everyone, but I enjoyed it.
Unfortunately, after I turned 70 my family encouraged me to sell the entire raft and motor. In hindsight, I would have been better off with a lightweight solid fishing boat and trailer.... That being said, I was happy with almost everything except the softness of the raft created a loss of thrust because it would flex..... I ended up breaking even when I sold it.... So maybe if it doesn't work on you kayak, you could sell the motor!
Thanks, and keep watching the series before deciding if it is right for you!
Thanks for the review, very informative, Im gonna add my comments here as this seems the best resource regarding this engine on the net. Like a 60’s era car this engine is very simple so if you have any mechanical inclination your gonna be able to deal with it. Its a 200$ motor where as something high quality is gonna be a minimum of 4x more expensive so im not gonna criticize its crudeness, for 700$ im gonna deal with it. The engine is listed as water cooled but its really not sure there is any circulation through the block, the thing is a loud screamer like a fully air cooled. The water cooling might just be injected to cool the exhaust. There seems to be some sort of inertial transmission where at a certain rev a gear engages that will turn the prop and engage the water pump. This presents difficulty at docking as you have no steering or propulsion at low power. Also not sure the type of transmission or clutch geared or friction. Gets very low propulsion at anything less than full power. I have this on a dinghy i transit to my sailboat on a mooring. I have to deal with wind currents and chop, at full power the engine moves the boat well but at anything less its nowhere near good enough. The power curve is a hockey stick at 90% power.
Nice review. The transition you mentioned is inertia. There have been some comments on mine making metallic noise. Actually I discovered that the quick fasteners that I use on the metal side poles have the metal hinge vibrating on the metal pole causing that noise on the video.
That being said, you can hear the clutch as it is partially engaged at slower speeds. The water pump system is also very simple, no gears, it just fits over the square shaft leading to the gears for the propeller. I'm planning on a video this fall of how to disassemble that area an replace the pump wheel. Not that it's needed, I'm just having fun with the motor. And yes, full speed or idle are about your only options with it.
Thanks for responding.
Hi Dan, thanks a lot for your great work reviewing the Hangkai. I’ve recently purchased it on eBay and I am going to take it out for a fishing trip in the Netherlands. As you’ve recommended I’ll do some adjustments at the beginning. Concerning the isolation of the motor: how much does it reduce the noise and secondly does the motor heat up more compared to without isolation?
I am glad you gave so many tips and hope that you’ll add some more experience.
I ended up removing the noise deadening material. It made little to no difference in sound and I was concerned about it over heating. Hope yours works out well! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
BoilerDan1 need to add one more question: did you ever change the spring of the pull starter? Cause the second pull starter was stuck and I opened it and couldn’t close ist anymore....
Phil Moody ; As far as the pull start cord, I was never able to figure out how to increase the tension once the cord has spun lose. The good news is that they were inexpensive to buy the pull cord unit. Coating the rope with bee wax really increased the wear and tear on mine as well.
Thank you for this video! This helped me and dad out a lot. Do you know the best way to get a 35:1 mix? I was going to buy a small Jerry can and mix in that, to pour directly into the motor
I went to my local Walmart and they had one.
Amazon has several, here’s a sample:
Portable 2-Stroke Engine Oil Fuel Mixing Bottle Tank 20:1/25:1/40:1/50:1 Chainsaw Strimmer Chain Saw Brush Cutter Trimmer (1L) a.co/d/5TmtSC7
You might have to mark between the listed ones during break in…. But after that the 50:1 burns cleaner and is clearly marked.
Search Amazon and you can probably find one with 36:1 marks.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
Vey helpful video. It is much much better than the manual which comes with the motor. It is also the best demonstration available online. Thank you very much
Thanks, I’ve made several videos of my adventure. Some thoughts change along the way but all in all I’m still happy with the motor. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍
Thanks! I’m actually considering getting the 4 stroke so I don’t have to mix oil and gas, but that’s about 6 months away from consideration. If you’re concerned with it being noisy then you might reconsider. I don’t know about the 4 strokes but mine is kinda noisy compared to other boat motors. But not as loud as a weed walker or lawn mower. Make sure you check out what repairs I’ve made too.
Hey Dan, if you ever consider purchasing a 4 stroke out board, I have found that the Parsun brand 2.6hp or even the 5hp to be a great, extremely reliable engine. Parsun is a subsidiary of Yamaha, and their outboards are ISO rated, and we'll engineered.
The best Review I have seen thank you for sharing
Thanks! Stay tuned, I'll add more as any issues present themselves.
You should strongly consider marine grade gear oil, they have additives to help with expansion so it doesnt blow your seals out
Good advise, Thanks
Hi! I just bought one on Amazon for $160. I'm going to put it on and old 12' starcraft jon boat. Your videos have been super helpful. I'm breaking it in now by running it 1hr a day in the tank with 35:1. I was wondering what your thoughts were on running 40:1 after that. Do you think running the extra oil might prolong the lif of the mototr?
Actually after break in the manufacturer’s website advises to reduce to 50:1. I’d go with that as it motor will run cleaner and better.
Use the best quality oil and that’s the best way to improve longevity.
Here’s a copy of Hangkai website:
HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil.
The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline);
After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline)
Here’s the website:
m.hang-kai.com/en/
Go to the horizontal lines at the top left corner.
Click on them then click on “News” and you’ll find some helpful information.
@HI-PSI
Due to age (71), and not having a lake nearby….. taking it out on the river on an inexpensive raft….. Sometimes you just need to take into account your limitations….. short answer, no…. I sold it to a younger guy that had previously owned another similar motor and was thrilled to get it.
If I’d had it on a traditional hard body boat, I’d probably still be going out with it…
Thanks for watching my adventures!😂👍
Hello Dan, when you do the break-in for the engine, do you remove the propeller?
The best way to break in motor is on your boat. Leave propeller on.
I took mine off only because I do not live close to lake. You must keep cool water running in the barrel to keep motor cool if you can’t put the motor on your boat.
Here’s the manufacturer’s website that may help too:
m.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp
@@BoilerDan1 appreciate it mate
I have an older model Hangkai (grey/diff location of choke lever). Maybe you can help with a few questions. 1. there is no fuel filter. should I add it? 2. I did not add gear oil or use the 32:1 break in mixture. Should do the break in mix now? I will add the gear oil. The instructions at the time were horrible.
Fuel filter is inside the gas tank and yes I would add one. If you have already run the motor for several hours, then no reason to use the higher oil/fuel mix. But if only run a little, then yes do the higher amount of oil. You can use the motor during that time, just very your speed from time to time. I’ve heard that the older motor came with gear oil in it. But I would check it and change it out anyway. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
@@BoilerDan1 thanks dan ...i did find the fuel filter. there was no gear oil so I added. I have only run it an hour so I'll start the 30:1 mix now. Thanks!
The old British seagull always had water in the gearbox you put in marine oil there were no seals but it was always ok
Thanks, I will worry less about the issue. I figure I'll check it from time to time, and swap it out if looks like too much.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
So I was in the process of thinking about purchasing this exact motor. My question is how do I hook up and maybe get to it part of the video and somebody’s asking already how do I hook up a 3 gallon gas tank to this motor?
I’m not an expert on that however I’m fairly sure that you just need to lengthen the fuel line and add a primer pump to get the fuel to the motor. Then once started it will suck in the fuel.
Here’s a sample of what I’m talking about: (NOTE, you’ll need to determine the size fuel line to get).
a.co/d/3oS6CJc
@@BoilerDan1 yeah thank you that’s kind of what I figured. I figured. Just disconnect a few lines and connected to the little internal fuel tank and get those little hand pump with the lines prime it would go like a regular outboard. I just wasn’t sure but thank you very much, sir.
You’re welcome.
My state does have non ethanol gas so I have no choice but to purchase already mixed non ethanol 50:1 fuel on line. Can I still do the break in with that cause the next already mix available is a 20:1
It's very important to use the higher amount of oil in the fuel during break-in. So don't use the 50:1 during break-in. Regarding the fuel, I discovered that I have been using ethanol gas all along. I get the highest grade fuel though. So I would recommend getting the most expensive gas at the pump, then break the motor in with the correct fuel / Oil mix and mix it yourself. So far the only problem I had which probably was due to ethanol in my gas too was one of the fuel lines rotted out. That's a cheap and easy replacement that you could even do right away. Or start out with the 20:1 mix. Just know that even the 35:1 mix (or was it 30:1?) will result in excess oil coming out the exhaust port. But once break in is done, the 50:1 mix will run clean. Have fun with the motor! Check out the other video's I've done, I will keep posting as things happen. So far nothing major, but making some easy changes that I have covered in the video's might help you along the way. Thanks for watching!
did it come with a title or a MCO manufacture certificate of origin? or MSO manufacture statement of origin? In texas we need it for titling purposes.
Sorry in Indiana the boat itself is registered. In your case you’ll have to apply for a title to be assigned. Usually you get a form to take with you to law enforcement to inspect. Maybe similar to if you built your own trailer, the state assigned it to a unique number….. maybe not worth the hassle. Sorry.
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos. They have been helpful. I just bought the same 3.6 HP from eBay and have been making all of the updates you have suggested. So far it feels like a pretty solid motor (for the price) once you take care of the known issues. I noticed on this video that you were able to give some throttle and have it stay at that speed without having to provide continual pressure (turn) to the throttle handle. On mine I can turn it freely, but when I let go it turns back to the idle position on its own. Did you do something to allow it to maintain throttle without keeping constant pressure on the handle? I did try tightening the little hex bolt on the end but it hasn’t worked so far. Thanks
I don't recall adjusting anything? I the beginning I also had to hold it to go full throttle..... Maybe the handle extension that I put on had something to do with it. I ended up putting some small wooden slats inside the handle extension to allow it to grip better, I'm guessing that did it. I want to mention that during break-in I kept a close eye on water temperature in my bucket. You need to supply cool water so you don't over heat. I broke it in last winter and added snow or cold water to the bucket from time to time, but didn't show that on the video's. I'm enjoying the little motor and will get it out again in the spring. I'll try to document any problems that I have along the way and update with a video from time to time. Good luck with yours.
Thanks for the reply, I’ll see if I can’t find a way to keep the throttle handle turned without holding it. Maybe it starts to “stick” a little after some use. I’ll keep an eye on the water temps in my bucket during break in.
trying to change the pull start rope. It's impossible to remove the broken off cord. Needle nose vice grip will not pull out. But the rope snapped off. Used the motor twice. Any advice Land locked in Texas.
You’ll have to replace the pull start system. Easy and cheap 😁
Here’s a sample:
www.ebay.com/itm/324402571624?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=u42jVzE4So-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=s8A53jWuRTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Here’s how to do it:
ua-cam.com/video/4Ad70xqUNX4/v-deo.html
Also, coat your new pull cord with bees wax. It’ll last a lot longer!👍
Amazon has them too:
Gekufa 33cc Recoil Pull Start Starter for Compatible with ATVs Pocket Dirt Bike 43cc 47cc 49cc 50cc Gas Scooters Pocket Bikes Mid-Bikes Mini-Choppers Small Quads with Claw Pawl Cog (Set of 2) www.amazon.com/dp/B08SJ2WLNL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R1E2275T5H4VNRBV0YQM
I bought this Hankai 3.5hp last year on Ebay but hard to use. It was hard to staring up. It took me a lot times to get starting but when I shut of the engine and try starting again it won't start. Had to try so many times when lucking it started but most the times it won't. I hate to use it. Any suggestion. I might throw in the trash. It was brand new motor. It cheap but it not good.
Not sure how to help. If you did everything correctly.... 35:1 oil fuel mix. Make sure you turn the choke to "OFF" and then turn the throttle handle about 1/2 inch toward higher run. Mine starts every time on second or third pull of the starter cord. Also, did you put gear oil in the bottom, near the propeller? (watch my other video's to see what I am talking about). Good luck, hope this helped.
Neng Thor don't throw it away. If you are interested in selling it let me know.
Buy a used tohatsu or nissan 2.5 3.5 hp 2 stroke. Ive owned many some of which were blue and from the 80's that ran extremely well and reliably. Thats the best $200 solution to your problem
Did you hear a clatter sound when idle or low speed? I think something might be wrong with mine
Not that I remember? But the clutch system has moving parts that could make that kind of sound if your at a speed where it tries to engage and disengage…? The clutch system is not the best on these…. See my other videos on clutch and sprig issues.👍
Hi, do I put the pin back on it place after I filled the oil?
Yes you can. But only if you are putting the propeller back on too. It’s best to run the motor on your boat. I only used the bucket because it was winter. I kept adding snow to keep the water cool. If yea use a bucket, you should keep water running into the bucket to keep water cool. But best to take out and run motor on your boat.
Thanks for watching 👍
I still have my motor.. I don't know why people comp[lain.. It is a working engine.. Right fuel mix, and remember the break in process and the engine will last you years.
I agree! I've run mine now for a little over 25 hours. The longer I run it the better it is running. It is by no means fast, but that isn't what I was expecting. I'm running the 50/1 mix now and it even runs clean with no oil residue at the exhaust ports. No rotting fuel lines, but we do have non-ethanol fuel available.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@BoilerDan1 I had my hangkai for like 6-7 years. I am still using it due to its light weight. I was out on the sea yesterday to put up fish nets. I sail very far out on it, so no one steal my fish or destroy my nets. There are plenty of fish and equipment thiefs on the water. It is probably time to change the spark plug as the engine started to choke a litle.. Beside that I dont have any problems with it. Also it is important to say that anyone who have the engine should not screw the fuel cap on hard, so the air can come in.. I had one fuel cap break because of that, and that too can be the cause of engine choking, if it cant suck in enough fuel. Your model is the new one with bigger tank.
TMike down in Cajun country says the problem with ethanol fuel, is the corn residue left in the carb and fuel lines. It will clog things up if the fuel sits in the float too long. I'd never heard that theory before.
You probably know better than me! I’d just heard that. But my fuel line did just snap off one day….. so I decided to just change them out on a regular basis. Not difficult or expensive.
Thanks for watching and joining in on the conversation.👍👍
@BoilerDan1 I've always heard that the ethanol could harm the rubber hoses. To be brutally honest, I don't know jack about any of this stuff. I just enjoy people fixing things, bringing old motors back to life.
Hey boiler Dan thanks for your videos they've been a help ps I'm a subscriber but i got a question though. I got mine running in a bucket but it's not putting any water through the cooling system I don't know how long it's supposed to take it for that to happen cuz I don't want my motor to get too hot. It's running for like 5 minutes and didn't do anything figured it would have started cycling water through.
Very important: keep cool water running in the bucket! I kept dumping in snow!
Better yet, break it in on your boat in the water.
You must rev the motor enough for the clutch to engage. That may require almost full throttle! The throttle works on centrifugal force. If no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor.
The clutch spring in these is too strong. I replaced mine and that helped a lot.
You could even remove the spring during break in.... but realize that the propeller will always turn, so I wouldn’t do that all the time. Here’s a link to the video that mentions the spring. I ended up using the one from Menards, not the one I mention from Home Depot.
ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html
Regarding clutch replacement see the below two videos:
ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
And after the spring replacement
ua-cam.com/video/LdtITFx6N-Q/v-deo.html
Let me know if that’s not clear and I’ll try to help.... But know that if the propeller isn’t turning and no water is coming out, you’re not cooling the motor.
@@BoilerDan1 I see what you mean I ran it almost full throttle and it was spitting water out like it should. I might replace the spring like you mentioned I'll have to check your videos out on that. Seriously man thanks a lot I appreciate it.
@@nicholasdupuis5721
It almost has idle and full speed and that’s it 😂.
Seriously though, you need to run it fast enough to get the water spitting out. Just keep changing the speed. Even if you slow to an idle for 1 minute, then speed it back up enough to keep that clutch engaged! I think you’re understanding now... it does have to go fast as part of the break in process.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
@@BoilerDan1 I noticed that too lol. I think I am understanding it again I really appreciate it. I'll keep watching if you keep posting thanks again.
I just received the same engine and Icant remove the propeller. Can you please tell me how to do it?. Thank you.
It's your lucky day! It is shown in one of my video's: Here is a link - ua-cam.com/video/NCALT3MKAEk/v-deo.html (PLEASE READ ALL THE BELOW 1ST)
I can tell you very easily too: 1st you remove the pin holding it place. Kind of looks like a bobby pin. You will need to bend it back straight so it will slide out. Then take a flat head screwdriver and gently rock it between the propeller housing and the motor housing.
It shows within the first minute in the video.
Lastly, if you find the series helpful, and you have extra finances 😂.... Consider clicking the "THANKS" button below and to the right of any of my video's. You can then reward me financially for my help and efforts. Not required, and you would be surprised how even a $2 Thank You can inspire me to continue in my efforts.
Regardless, thanks for watching and I'm happy to help out.
The lower section looks everything like a Yamaha 2hp,does it not have fill screws for gear oil change /refill.
No, they must have skipped copying that feature 😉
Thanks for watching 👍👍👀
Any paperwork for registration? Any gas powered outboard in texas has to be registered.. this info would be helpful.
Fortunately in Indiana, the boat is registered not the individual motor.
You’ll need to go to your BMV and apply for a title and for it and have a VIN number assigned similar to if you built your own boat trailer that doesn’t have a title or VIN NUMBER.
Hopefully you get a clerk that knows how. You’ll probably need the bill of sale too. I’d suggest that you go talk to the BMV about it prior to purchasing.
Some BP stations sell ethanol free fuel. If your station has a pump that has a setting for the ethanol free fuel, there will be some leftover fuel in the hose that has ethanol fuel in it, so pump a small amount of fuel into your car first to get that fuel out of the hose. My local BP has a separate pump for the ethanol free fuel. Ethanol does a number on Chinese rubber that is carb parts and Chinese fuel hose detierates quickly from ethanol. If you have to buy true fuel. I know it is expensive but in the long run it is worth it for all the issues you will experience from ethanol. The guys who buy those Chinese scooters and motorcycles from Amazon have found out about Chinese rubber and how crappy it is.
Good advice, my hoses deteriorated in one summer with little use.
Wonderful review. Thanks for all the detail.
I want to buy a 6 hp 4 stroke. Your review indicates to me that the motors are good enough for the price, which is less than a third of a high brand motor. What's your feeling? Do you agree?
It seems to be a bit on the loud side, which is a big deal to me. What do you think, compared to the more expensive brands?
For some unknown reason, I'm not seeing my reply? I will summarize here: I'm happy with my motor, but there are issues I've had to overcome. They are a little things and are posted in the several video's I've made on the motor. But noise compared to an expensive outboard motor is an issue. It's not as loud as a weed-wacker, but it is louder than any regular outboard motor. However the 4 stroke does have a muffler, so it might be quieter than my 2 stroke. The 2 stroke exhaust is underwater to be specific, so your not going to sneak up on any fish that's for sure! Sorry for the delay, but I"m sure I had responded, it's just not showing up here for some reason?
Thanks for watching.
boiler up! hey how does the mix jug work? i just got one of these but the mix jug has no lines to show what level to fill the gas and oil to. I do have Chinese chainsaws and a Chinese leafblower that all came with multiple line mix jugs for different fuel ratios and I could use one of those as they all have a 35:1 option but figured I would use the one that came with the outboard as its the only 35:1 thing I have and I could keep it dedicated for the outboard.
Hammer Down (as they say😂👍).
I’d use one of your old ones with the markings.
The Hangkai web sight recommends the following:
HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil.
The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline);
After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline).
Here’s a link to it:
m.hang-kai.com/en/
I’m the upper left corner click on the 3 lines. Then click on “News”.
You’ll find more information there.
NOTE: 25:1 will leave an oil residue so I wouldn’t run that a long time. Then finish breaking in with 35:1.
After that it’ll run clean on the 50:1 that they recommend.
Back on the jug….. you could mark it yourself by first using your older one. Then pour into it the oil. Mark that. Then do same thing with the gas….
I bought a new one with markings on it 👍👍
@@BoilerDan1 hey thanks for the quick reply, looks like i will use one of my old mix jugs since they dont even want you to use 35:1
You’re welcome….. I really don’t answer this quickly, you just happened to ask about the same time I check for activity.👍👍
@@BoilerDan1 so i did the 10 hr break in with all 25:1 mix, and i hav oil in air filter and in other places, planning on a 50:1 mix now, guessing that will fix all that
Yes, the 50:1 will burn clean!
Some people have suggested breaking in at 30:1 .
Even that leaves oily residue.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
Hei. I have just purchased the Hangkai 3,5 HP and I have a question for you. What is the basic procedure to activate the propellar when it has started? There is no "gear handle" to activate the propellar, so is it something that you do on the trottle?
Yes, it’s by giving more power from the throttle. It has a centrifugal force type clutch that expands and causes the propeller to spin. In one of my later videos I show the clutch system too.
In my opinion, the clutch spring is too strong and will cause the clutch to wear out sooner than it should. It’s a relatively easy replacement. I suggest that you watch the clutch replacement videos as eventually you’ll need to do that.
Thanks for watching!
@@BoilerDan1 OK. Thank you so much for answering :-)
Happy to help!
Thank you for watching 😁
remember that the base oil is 90 weight and the top number is just when its cold so REALLY your fine !!!!
I hadn't thought about hear lube being the same as conventional oil on the numbers. Thanks for the info!
mine would hardly move my little boat.
maybe we need a different carb?
Not much more than a trolling motor! But thanks for watching 👍 I just realized that maybe you haven’t replaced the clutch tension spring? That would help. I’ll post a link to the video showing how. Check back in a minute
Try replacing the clutch tension spring. Here’s a how to video: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html here’s how to get to the clutch itself: ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
Would you consider it a louder than an average 3.5hp 2 stroke outboard?
Yes! Well I’m not familiar with other two stroke outbreaks, but if I had it to do over, I’d reconsider getting the 4 stroke because it has a muffler. But this one is the same as all the other inexpensive 2 strokes out there.
Thanks for watching 👍
Hey Dan hope things are well on your end. So here's my situation. I purchased this engine and broke it in for about 3 hrs with a 30-1 fuel mixture. I got a little impatient and attached it to my inflatable and took it out on my lake. Engine started fine but when I gave it full power....the boat do not go forward. ??? If I was to change the mixture to 50-1 will the motor have more power so that it will move the boat?
No, the problem is more than likely the clutch. The spring on the motor is too strong for this application. In one of my other videos I replaced it and that helped a lot. The other possibility is that the bolts holding the clutch are too tight not allowing the clutch pads to pivot outward. Your idea of breaking it in on your boat is the best way to do it. I’ve had several others experience this same issue..... So you’re going to start out getting to know your motor better. I picked up a lighter spring at a local hardware store. The ends were coiled but I was able to bend them open to make them fit. I’ll look up the videos and send another reply with the links to them.
Here is one on the spring I used: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html
This is one of me removing the old clutch: ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
Now here is one of putting it back together: ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
I hope all works out well with yours. I'd suggest you go ahead and order a back-up clutch.
You can get them from Amazon: examples
1. With bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Without bolts: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09QFVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One other note: I was advised to not use the anti seize product. But do use the thread locker that I mention in the videos. Put it directly on the bolt about 1/2 up from the start of the threads. You can probably see on your bolts where it was used in assembling the motor at the factory. Also remember that this is an aluminum block motor, so don't overtighten anything....
@@BoilerDan1 Thank you SOOOO much for replying so quickly....is this motor powerful enough for a 12ft Saturn Heavy Duty inflatable? I am asking this because if it is not, then I would purchase a more powerful engine and save the time of fixing the clutch issue. What is your take on this......thanks again for your videos.
The problem I have had is that the motor would push into the raft because of my raft not having a good motor mount system for attaching the motor to the raft. It would allow the motor to tilt which in turn caused me to lose some thrust. I’m assuming that your raft is of a better design for attaching a motor? With that being said, it’s a pretty small motor and you are not going to get a lot of speed with it. In calm water I think you should get forward movement similar to someone running or jogging? Like in the 5 mph range? But if you’re going to use it where there is a current..... I think you’d be happier with something with more power. I suggest do more searching on UA-cam and find a video of someone using it on something similar to your needs. 12 ft. And if you put in 3 or 4 people, that might be too much for this little motor. It did ok for me with 2 total in the raft. Wish I could be more specific about the issue, but I don’t know, but it does sound like your clutch isn’t engaging enough because you should be getting more thrust than what you explained earlier.
Looks like the water cooling is only for the exhaust?
Not sure what you mean? But the water cooling lines do flow into and out of the engine block, so it does something to cool the motor.
I saw on some spec sheets #93 gas, do you use premium gas or is that a different number than octane?
I always used premium hoping that would have less ethanol, however now most stores Hardware like Menards and even Walmart are selling non-ethanol fuel in the stores in the lawnmower areas. The ethanol deteriorates the fuel lines. But I think you can also get ethanol resistant fuel lines now!
Outstanding detailed review! Thanks for taking the time and share such valuable knowledge and information. I was planing to buy a 2.5 suzuki to put on a excursion 5 inflatable boat, but after watching this video, I'll definitely get one of these hangkai 3.6. I'll make sure to change those ful lines for better ones. Hopefully it will do fine with salt water. Thanks.
Some additional things to consider is the clutch system is very weak and wears out quickly. Changing the tension spring will add a lot of life to it. You can see the change I made in my video on putting in a new clutch (actually two video's, one removable and the second installation. Not a difficult task as I'm not a mechanic and was able to figure it out on my own 😂. But I'd consider ordering a spare clutch to have available. Regarding saltwater.... I've seen complaints that the water cooling tub rotted out? Again, it's a simple tube that you could replicate with a similar diameter copper tubbing... Running the motor in a tube of fresh water when on shore would flush it out.... There is a 4 hp hangkai out there that is air cooled. Might be a better choice? I've got several video's out on the 3.6 hp, so keep my link handy for things you might run into if you do get one. Don't over pay... I don't think it's worth $300. I paid under $200 and was happy with that even with some of the issues. I appreciate your taking the time to provide positive feedback for my efforts. I was just documenting my journey... Not realizing how successful it would be! 👍👍.
1. Clutch replacement - ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
2. Clutch installation - ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
@@BoilerDan1 Thanks a lot Dan. I think I have watched all your videos. I'm a car mechanic, so hopefully won't have any problems with those parts replacement.
I have one last question, can you tell if a 6hp motor will be too much for one of those excursion inflatables? For me, it seems the restriction is the motor mount that comes with those boats, but I'm guessing with a sturdy mount connected directly to wooden floor and to the boat mounts, and that goes over the inflatable might be possible. What do you think?
And thanks again for all the great videos!
rubenvor : I’d be concerned about it handling that much power. The index brand is a entry level raft. There’s some sturdier ones out there. But yes if you can mount the motors weight and thrust to the wood floor it definitely would help. But I’d seriously consider a more sea worthy raft 👍
I have a question, so does this run off oil and gas mixture?
Yes it does require mixing the oil and fuel together. They do make one that they are separate too. I went with the one I bought because I needed to lay it sideways to transport it. That can be a problem for the one with the oil separate as it can drain back into the cylinder fouling out the spark plug.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
First off I want to say thank you for your detailed videos on this Hangkai motor. My fist experience with this was last summer when I purchased a used 12f Pelican jon boat that came with a 2 stroke 3.5hp motor. Of course it only worked once but I don't think it was properly taken care of in the first place. I have watched many vidoes about this motor some good some not so good. Being that all the good American outboards are far outside my price range I bought a brand new Hangkai 4 Stroke 4hp. I have followed all your videos and they are great. But we all know the instructions are terrible. I was wondering about how much oil it takes on initial fill up. The dipstick must have been made by a dipstick. Lol. It is very confusing on the marks and the picture in the instructions makes it look like you should fill it to the point you can look down the fill hole and actually see the oil. I would appreciate any input on this. Thank you.
I purchased the 2 cycle version (mix of oil & gas). I choose it due to the fact that I have to lay the motor down in the back of a Subaru Forester. I read that the 4 cycle because it holds the oil can also leak out if you lay it on the wrong side...?
But to answer your question the best I can... It sounds like a similar system to some lawnmowers. You fill until it almost runs out but not quite.... With the 4 cycle, it's more like a car, you have oil in a reservoir that gets splashed or circulated on the engine parts and you will change it from time to time. The 2 cycle you add it to the gas and it burns up with no bulk amount of oil in the engine.
For sure still do a gentle break in, as well as add good gear oil....I'm sure it came with none too.
I'm in the process of making my final "On the water" test video. I'll post it when complete. Then I will add more if and when I have any complications.
Thanks for your encouragement. Wish I could provide specifics on your 4 cycle motor.
Here is something else I found. It's helpful hints from the manufacturer. Some how to kind of things.
www.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp
But I didn't find anything on oil capacity...sorry.
Thank you for your reply I realize I was looking at the wrong videos when I asked my question. sorry about that. I just started my motor and it started right up and sounds great but I noticed that even when idle is turned up there is not water coming out the water exhaust port ( or whatever it is called) that is half way up the shaft. Just wondering if yours is that way? I already took the cover off to make sure there is no blockage and there is nothing.
I think you stated that you purchased the 4 cycle motor. From what I have seen on line, it is air cooled instead of water cooled. So you won't have water coming out. Here is a link of what I think you ordered and this one is air cooled. www.ebay.com/itm/2-4-Stroke-Outboard-Motor-Fishing-Boat-Motor-Engine-7HP-6-5-6HP-4HP-3-6-3-5HP/332632568029?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D50544%26meid%3D4972393d25644486946bd62579ac2faa%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282595525253%26itm%3D332632568029&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
HOWEVER if your model is watert cooled, water will only come out when you speed the motor up above idle. It has a clutch that allows the motor to idle without the propeller moving. So if you speed the motor up so that the propeller is turning, then water will come out if - it is fact a water cooled type. You can also see the water tubes when you remove the engine cover. On mine they are black plastic with one inlet going in on one side of the piston area and the outlet on the exhaust pipe side. At the 14:52 time mark of this video link you can see the two clips and tubes on the sides of the motor. They are the water cooling tubes. Here is the video that shows it> again fast forward to the 14:52 time mark. ua-cam.com/video/322Aq735A9c/v-deo.html
It is in fact air cooled. I did wonder if that was the case and now it makes complete sense. I greatly appreciate your help and look forward to watching more of your vides. Thank you very much for your time.
I wonder if a predator could be bolted to the lower half without a lot of modifying.
Enlighten me? What is a predator? I hadn't fished or boated since I was in High School. I'm just winging it with this project.... But I will add that the motor gets better the more I run it! :0)
@@BoilerDan1 it's a brand of Chinese 4 stroke engine carried at harbor freight.
I wondered what that was? I'm not that much of a mechanic to know the answer to that idea...
Look at the air cooled Honda 2.3hp or Briggs and Stratton , there are many similar setups on ebay and other manufacturers like Mud Buddy etc. It's been done and they suck too.
Hi.. really helpfull video thanks.. .. just wondering i have recently purchased the 3.6hp as shown in video.. im in process of running it in and find the engine needs abit of gas.. before the prop/ propeller spin... is this normal for this engine.. or should it be spinning while idling. Thanks alot in advance..
In idle the prop won’t spin, it works on centrifugal force. Similar but opposite like brakes on a car. When you accelerate a clutch expands and engages a brake like pad that in turn makes the propeller shaft spin. I’m going to put a link below because you really should consider replacing the clutch spring. It’s too strong for this motor and it causes the pad to wear out very fast. I’ve got two others that show how to replace the clutch as well. Here’s the link to spring replacement: ua-cam.com/video/G4qLw14lf9k/v-deo.html
Also, you can break your motor in while using. I just don’t have a lake nearby. Also keep cool water running at all times if in a barrel. I kept adding snow but didn’t show that on video. You don’t want to over heat it. I’ve made 16 or so videos on the motor. I’d suggest you watch them all, especially on repairs 😉. It can be a fun little motor but you will have to work on it from time to time 👍 Thanks for watching 👍👍
Thanks alot for fast reply.. im hoping to have a little time over the weekend .. so i think id best watch your vids on the subject.. thanks take care..
Hi Dan , I realized you said a Champion cj8 ace didnt have one they suggested a cj7 and after changing the plug and adding new fuel it doesnt start at all? COULD IT BE THE PLUG??
Yes! I’d suggest NKG plug.
Here’s a video on it. I list the number with the first 30 seconds of the video. I’m not home or I’d look it up and list it here. But I’m guessing using the cj7 isn’t gapped right?
Watch this one:
ua-cam.com/video/JUaHjwJSglw/v-deo.html
You can probably get plug from Amazon.
@@BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan I did get it going and will try it out on the river Monday ,Thanks again
Great! You’ll figure out it’s little glitches with experience 👍👍
Do they come with the Producers place of origin for title?
No, in Indiana, the boat is what is registered not the motor. So that wasn’t an issue. Check with your states BMV, you might be able to have a number assigned for the motor if needed. If you look through my other videos, you’ll find one on how I registered a raft that I put the motor on. Here’s a link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/JP1YFfuIV00/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching 👍
hi sir you seem to be good with outboards. i have an outboard where water is not coming out of the water discharge, its water cooled. it runs ok other than this, what do you think keeping it from discharging water? i ran it for a few minutes before i noticed no water discharged from the pee hole/water discharge hole.
If it is the exact same Hangkai 3.6 hp motor.... It has a very simple plastic water impeller that is attached to the rod that runs the propeller. At an idle speed the propeller does not turn, nor will the water impeller. If you are running it while on your boat, it is sometimes hard to see the water coming out. It's not all that much that comes out. So to be sure, run the motor by setting it up inside a large tub of water. Then you can actually confirm that no water is coming out. There is also an opening that has a filter grill on the underside of the flat part of the shaft below the waterline. That is where the water enters. Make sure it is not blocked by debris. You can also unhook one of the actual black water lines going in/out of the motor. They have a simple spring clip. Once unhooked, you can confirm if water is or is not coming out. If no water is coming out, then the blades of the plastic wheel impeller might be damaged? The motor came with a spare water impeller, so you might need to replace it? I've not done that as of yet, but if you research some more on UA-cam, maybe you can find something on that topic.
The hose that pees out sides only purpose is so u can see that waters pumping disconnect hose from water jacket check if clog or try without if no water then u need pull gear case and check water pump
Good suggestion, I originally thought that the person might be running at idle speed under which circumstances the water pump will not run. I hope he takes your advise too.
Thanks for commenting.
hubby did what you posted, your a lifesaver!!! lol
Tell him to still take a couple of paddles along…. Just in case! 🤣.
Thanks for letting me know 👍👍
So when doing the brake in, does that mean you have to leave it at idle for 10 hrs?
No! You want the motor to run at various speeds but not full speed. It also must run fast enough so that the propeller turns so that water flows to cool the motor. You can hear the clutch disengage, it a little bit of a slipping metallic sound. Once you start the motor rec it up so the propeller engauges, then back it off to slower speeds, then keep it going but vary your speeds up and down. I let it remain on one speed for up to 30 minutes.... But I'm the first hour or two, I'd change the speed every 10 to 15 minutes.
In my earlier reply, there were a couple of auto corrected words that were wrong. Ie… "rec" should have been "rev". The last sentence should have read... But in the first hour or two, I'd change the speed ever 10 - 15 minutes.
Hope you were able to figure it out
@@BoilerDan1 what happens if you don’t run it for 10 hrs? I only broke mine in for 2 hours. Took it on the water ran great couple of times. Now doesn’t start!
The four stroke is much simpler, air cooled, and has a beautiful quiet idle. 2 cycle? A speed demon.
In hindsight, the 4 stroke would have been a better choice overall. I chose 2 stroke so I could lay it sideways to transport…..
Thanks for watching and commenting
Hey dan ..do u know the 3 little spare propeller pins they give u how offen do they snap ?
Mine never has snapped and I actually ran up on a shallow spot bumping along on a rocky bottom (small quarter size rocks and sand). But I did lose one out in my lawn when I had removed the propeller but forgot to remove the pin.... it was somewhere in the grass but I couldn’t find it.... I carried a spare in my tackle box too. I made extra using a brass rod. I think that’s what they are made of, apparently brass will snap under pressure. The diameter was slightly smaller but it works!
I don’t remember getting 3 with mine? I bet they are hiding in my garage somewhere? I’ll have to do a deep dig to find them! 😂
You: Keep living the dream! My location was 28 degrees overnight (-2 Celsius) 🥶
@@BoilerDan1 ok mate thanks once again 👍
The yamahas don't spout water at idle either.I'm saying that lower half is all Yamaha with a different motor mounted on top.
Got it 👍
What’s the black star thing that’s not in the motor
Took me a minute to figure out what you were referring too? But I do have the answer. It is an extra water wheel used in the water cooling system. With the motor you get an extra one of those plus an extra pull start cord/spring assembly. Sorry I didn't point that part out in the video. Thanks for watching and asking.
thanks so much you answered all my questions!!!
You’re welcome. I’ve made several videos on my experience with the Hangkai motor. It’s not for everyone, but I have enjoyed playing with it!
Including a few repairs 😂
Thanks for watching 👍👍
Are you using marine grade 2 cycle oil or just regular 2 cycle oil?
Marine Synthetic Blend, "Quicksilver 2-Stroke Premium Plus.
How much faster between the motor and a 45lb thrust trolling motor , I don’t go far but need more speed
Sorry I can't specifically answer your question. I've never used a battery powered trolling motor. I can tell you that I chose to go with this little gas powered motor to eliminate the battery lugging around and the possibility of running out of power. That being said, if you watch a few more of my video's you can see me going up stream. The river (Wabash) has a pretty swift current. More than I ever realized growing up in the area. Going upstream, by looking at the shore line, it's a little faster than walking, but definitely not even a slow jog. Going downstream however, I'd estimate about 7 mph. I hope that helps you some. A part of me thinks the 4 cycle (4 stroke) would be a better choice? I had some left over fuel from last season.... Finally decided to try burning it off in a all metal Tiki torch. That worked, but I don't recommend that... Just saying what I did. With the 4 cycle, any left over could be put in a vehicle.
One other thing to add to my first reply.... If you have a more solid boat, that is still light weight, I think you will do better going upstream. I have mine on a spongy air filled raft and I'm sure I lose some thrust do to that.
Hi, does it tell u how important the paddle is?
I wouldn't leave shore without them! :0)
Thanks, WOW this saved MY ASS, I was told this is a plug and play ready to go just add fuel. I am happy I found this video. I am now going to get some SAE 90 , I will grab a cj8 as well.( just incase ) LOL Thanks again
When I started my journey and decided to film it I had no idea of what I would run into! Nor how my efforts would help others like me! Just wanted to play around and not spend a lot of money!
Although you’ll be doing some work on it, it’s pretty easy and I actually enjoyed it all!
Thanks for watching 👍👍
Plastic prop will turn flat out loose some pitch and cavitate . Run it on a boat ?
I changed mine out and put on a metal prop.
Thanks for watching.
is it water or air cooled? how do you feel with this engine? defects?
Water cooled but that only functions when the propeller is turning. The pump is a flywheel that turns with the shaft going to the propeller.. So you wouldn’t want to sit running at idle speed for long periods of time. It does have some air cooling vents too. Personally I think the motor itself as far as the the block and piston are good. But I’d encourage you to watch my whole series of videos on the motor. It’s the little things that can cause issues. #1 is the clutch spring. It’s too tight for the motor. So plan on replacing the clutch almost seasonally. I’d recommend replacing the spring even at break in! Also order a spare clutch so you have one when needed. Spark plug replacing and bee waxing the pull cord is important too. Lately the price has been too high. Under $300 is ok.... but it’s not worth anything more as you will need to be able to make adjustments as you’ll see in my other videos. But all in all I’m happy with mine.... I’ll mention that breaking in the motor is important. You can do that while using it. I did it in a bucket but if you do that keep cool water running in it. I kept adding snow but didn’t show that on the videos. Thanks for watching 👍
@@BoilerDan1 thanks
@@BoilerDan1 I would like to take the Ozeam Pro 2.5 hp, I currently have the Ozeam 1.3 hp Pro, do you know them? they are air cooled
Nino Spinner ; not familiar with those but I like the idea of air cooled. - less moving parts 👍
@@BoilerDan1 its my motor
ua-cam.com/video/SsSRcMAgXD8/v-deo.html
Most outboards have no air cleaner at all, similar to snowblowers. Both engines operate in relatively dust-free conditions, so they don't need them.
Thanks for the confirmation. I had others tell me that too. So I did not change anything with the little air filter, I'll leave it as is.
Thanks for watching and sharing your advise!
@@BoilerDan1 Welcome Dan, had a feeling I wasn't the first one to point that out. Probably not the first one to point this out, either. But you can clean that filter every couple of years. The manual should have the procedure. Real simple if they don't. Wash in dishwashing detergent, air dry, and then a light coat of mineral oil or ATF.
I always add a little marvel mystery oil in my mix and ethanol stabilize in mine since all the gas in Massachusetts has 10 percent I’ll be switching out the cheap gas lines at the end of the year
Can you use ethanol fuel if you replace the fuel lines with better ones?
an ethanol blend - Yes I would think if you replace the lines with better ones it would be fine. I also had someone tell me the lines will go bad regardless. So I will keep an eye on mine for the first season.
Any gas with ethanol well eventually gum up the jets in the carburetor. Always use non-Ethanol gas on any engine with a carburetor especially a 2 stroke
Let me update: Tom (see below) is probably totally correct, don't use any ethanol. But if you are in a state that only offers ethanol blended fuels you might try this: I found that there are products that help with ethanol problems. I've cut and pasted info. (can get at Amazon, Walmart...Other places too.
Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers was developed to specifically address issues associated with using ethanol based fuels. This applies to E-10, E-15, E-85, pure ethanol and any mixtures in between including gasoline. Our Product is completely soluble in all ethanol fuels and will not harm filters. Lucas Safeguard™ Ethanol Fuel Conditioner with Stabilizers contains effective additives to prevent rust and corrosion associated with the use of ethanol fuels.
Key Benefits
Recommended for use in automobile and marine applications.
Cleans injectors, valve seats, combustion chambers and other critical fuel components
Stabilizes fuel and prevents varnish & gum formation in ethanol and gasoline
Combats deposits and protects your engine oil lubricants from the harmful effects of alcohol combustion
NOT RECOMMENDED FOR DIESEL APPLICATIONS
One ounce treats five gallons of ethanol fuel. Our new 5.25 oz bottle treats up to 25 gallons (94.6 liters) of ethanol fuel.
hi dan i just got this motor and im asking when greaking in motor do you use 50 to 1 ratio or the 35 to 1 ratio
35 to 1 for the break-in period. That way your getting a little extra oil for better lubricating. It will result in a little oil residue, but that will go away once you are done with the break-in period. Remember to not go full speed during break-in, and vary your speeds over that time too.
What brand and type of oil do you use for fuel mixture?
I’ve always liked Valvoline products and they do make 2cycle oil:
Valvoline 2-Stroke TC-W3 Certified Outboard Marine Conventional Motor Oil 16 Fluid Ounce
I checked and you can get it from Walmart…. But any good 2 cycle oil will work fine. The valvoline product listed under $11 for a quart. You can find some cheaper in the store. But a quart will make several gallons of fuel/oil mix.
Thanks for watching 👍👍
I should mention that 2 cycle oil is usually in the sporting goods and /or the lawn care areas of retail stores. Not so much the automotive section.
cheers for the info dan me and the boys are making plywood boats this summer and the cruize n booze will be on.
Dan I hope you are doing well. I live in Muncie, I got one of the motors for my basstender 11.3 (if you are not familure with them great little boats). Anyway, I am watching the videos, I do not have any questions about them yet. I was just wondering where the boat ramp is that you put the boat in video 8. the ramp is nice and low, I have a small suv that I pull my little boat with and have issues finding places I can access the rivers with. i am sure it would pull most of the ramps, But what if it doesnt? them I am in trouble. If you do not mind I would love to know the location of this ramp. I know some people are guarded about fishing places, I am not taking any fish I just like to fish, I am always alone and will not share the information unless you said it was ok to do. Thanks so much. Bryan Wedmore
Good to have you along my video journey! No problem sharing the location. It’s a free location to anyone. Just Google Fort Ouiatenon.
In Tippecanoe County.
It’s rarely used except for one weekend in the fall.
It’s access to the Wabash, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised with several log areas where there are great spots for bass!
Give it a try someday.
Thanks for watching 👍😂
@@BoilerDan1 Your videos are so helpful. If there are big log area then Id guess there are flat head cat fish also. I am learning how to fish for cat fish, yep at 58 I am going to learn a new fishing technic. should be fun. I will google map the place. again thanks for the info. real quick do you think it is safe to park suv in the lot at night? Bryan
Hmmm, it’s a State or maybe County park that I think closes at night. There’s a state park campground called Prophet’s Town.
It’s not exciting but newer and safe!
The two locations are 13 miles apart.
I’d feel safe at both places. There’s parking at the fishing place but no staffing. They may close a gate at night, but I’m not sure.
@@BUGMAN-22
Our sons name is also Bryan (small world).
I thought of another spot. It’s very isolated and maybe not gated at night. Anyway, it’s a little further downstream.
Name is Granville Park.
Here’s a link, they have several photos. If you goggles a satellite map of the area, you’ll see it out in the middle of nowhere!’
www.wabashriver.us/access_points/granville_park/index.htm
Is there no deadman switch?
No. Just the push button cut off switch..... so don’t fall out of your boat!😉
Dan the Champion plug is about as good as the one that failed so put an NGK in , Way better than rowing and most of these Chinese engines have cast iron piston rings so have a long break in period so plenty of short trips with a cool down in between as well.
I have replaced the plug with the NGK as suggested. Thanks!
I’m trying to decide to go with this or an old faithful Johnson or Evinrude from late 50s-70s. I’ll probably give one of these a shot and if it fails me, I’ll go with an old battle axe Johnson or Evinrude.
Just make sure you check out my other videos. I've done a lot of tweaking, and recently replaced the clutch as well. I think if you are handy and don't mind working on the motor, it can serve you well. But there are issues. (spark plug, fuel lines, gas cap vent, clutch, lose wire on cutout switch... So check out my other videos so you know what to expect. All in all it runs well, but it's not without issues... Power, noise...… But I do still like mine.
Thanks for watching.
BoilerDan1 Alright. I’m extremely handy. The way I see it, if I buy an old motor I’m going to have to tear into it unless someone else got it running and it’s cost will likely reflect that. I think I’m going to buy one of these an an old Evinrude as a project to fix as a more permanent solution. But, we shall see I have a little while to think on it. Thanks for your reply. I will check out your other videos. I subscribed also. Take care!
Keep you eye open for a good deal! Especially if you are in no rush. The prices on eBay fluctuate. I paid $181.00 in late December. Just to give you an idea. Have fun!
Hi i'm planing to buy a Hangkai 4 HP do you have any reviews ??? thanks
Sorry, I don’t. However in hindsight If to buy another one I would go with the 4hp 4 stroke. The 3.6 hp mixing oil and gas makes the leftover fuel had to get rid of at the end of the season.... I’d hope that the clutch system would be improved in the 4hp but I don’t know that either? Thanks for watching 👍
Buy cheap buy twice. Was going to buy one of these outboard engine glad i didn't ended up with a mercury.
I just bought one of these for $16. That's shipping and all.
@@BigKeithDog Did it come with everything for 16$
@@dannyt5305 Nope, got scammed.
@@BigKeithDog really that sucks I saw them for the same price and was debating buying one did they send you anything at all
@@dannyt5305 I ordered it, an email was sent from eBay saying the product shipped. Then I got an email from the seller saying his eBay account is under review. It wasn't supposed to be delivered yet, but after talking with some people it's become apparent it was a scam. I was weary about it when buying, I figured I'd take the $16 gamble.
I am guessing this motor no longer runs in 2019.
Ha, ha... We'll see? It will be late spring when I give it a try. I will post a video of the event! I take it up stream on a local river and will wait until the spring floods recede. Stay tuned 😬
Is the motor still running in 2020 ?
this is my girlfriends UA-cam account I am commenting from haha
Man thanks for taking the time to make this video and share your knowledge it’s been very helpful.
There are several video's that I've made on my motor. It's been quite the journey! All in all I'm happy with it, but there have been issues.... Keep watching! I've replaced the spark plug, fuel lines twice, and the clutch. The clutch replacement wasn't difficult and I used a lighter spring which has really helped. Check those out when you get a chance.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Hope she didn't mind!
Best review I have seen yet, thank you
I see this review was a few years ago, How is the motor running now?
Yes, I made several videos of my journey with the motor. You’ll need to view them to get an idea of what all I did! There were a few times that I got discouraged with it, however I worked through each issue and ended up being happy with the purchase.... but I’m getting a little older and one item I’d do different is the plywood floor of my raft. It became too cumbersome for me to load and assemble by myself. If I were under 65 it would be fine but pushing 69 and 70 just around the corner!😲... Well, someone recently made me an offer to buy it all, so I sold it.... The motor is doing fine but I don’t own it now. The buyer is familiar with Hangkia and owns another one as well. I’m considering buying a raft with a floor built in that’s lighter weight.... and maybe try the air cooled motor? Thanks for watching and I hope the videos I made will continue to help others with theirs or decide whether to buy one or not 👍
@@BoilerDan1 Ah, well that explains why no more Hangkai videos lol. Thx so much for all the time & work you put into it though!
Guessing not much of an air filter as there may not be much dust out on the water? But looks good so fsr.
The water suck it from where ?
Where the hole can i make it more flow?
There is a small flywheel water pump down by the propeller. It’s not visible without taking it apart.
So you can’t increase the water flow.
The motor is a combination of water and air cooled. The water pump only operates when the propeller turns, so no water will come out when you are at idle.
Can i add a 12v electric water pump?
Directly the pipe
I do not know. Sorry. I just recorded my experience with the motor.
There is a copper tube that goes through from the pump up to the motor.
I’ve attached a link to a video that shows the tube. Maybe you could tie into it?
Part 1. ua-cam.com/video/H4mPGuEKnKI/v-deo.html
Part 2. ua-cam.com/video/Qu9OjXbMutA/v-deo.html
Older boat motor's didn't have air cleaner's looks like cheep fun 👍
I did have a lot of fun with it!
Thanks for watching 👍
i think ill have to check and see if i can find fuel line and a primer bubble that will handle ethinal because thats all we have in my area. i just bought one of these and will be beginning the break in next week
Hope my videos help! One important thing, I have been told that in breaking in the motor, to leave the propeller on. Also if using a bucket, keep running cool water constantly.
I’m also trying to find better fuel lines. I’m going to check at a local lawnmower repair shop.
Thanks for watching!
I use the highest grade of fuel and have found an additive that says it will counter the effects of ethanol. I purchased the additive at Wal-Mart.
Can should prepare yourself to replace the clutch..... I've posted a video on that too 😅
Congrats for making this heap of junk to look almost like something what actually works. I bought one of these about 8 months ago. Didn't work properly from the start so I contacted the supplier. Without much fuss, he simply sent me another one and didn't want the old one back. Definitely kudos for PR here - but that is where the positives end.
The new motor broke down after 10 minutes of use (the seal on the leg shaft wasn't properly pressed in and let water in the upper part) and from that point everything went downhill. The weakest spot is the cooling system that has so many issues you can bottle them (I am not wasting my time going into details here) and from there the problem cascades to other parts. At this stage I ran already of spare parts I used from the first engine and I have just order new clutch bearing, the clutch arms, down shaft seals and spark plug. I can't remember one single trip longer than 1 mile I would have finished without having to use oars or asking somebody to tow me.
I anybody is going to buy this gizmo after reading the above, well, good luck. You need it.
Excellent review! If mine does start falling apart, I will make a more negative video. I've probably got less than 40 hours run time on it. We will see what happens this summer. I also only go upstream, just in case I have a breakdown. I have documented some issues I have had in either comments or additional videos. I hope those considering one reads reviews and follow along as time progresses.....and check out the follow-up videos that I've put out there. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
@@BoilerDan1 My pleasure! By the way, if you bin the motor (and that is what you should do to save yourself money and frustration), keep the instructional manual. Absolutely top entertaining value, worth the price you paid for the motor :-). And printed on a top quality glossy paper too! The author's mother shouldn't have marry her brother ;-).
BTW: if you are using the motor in a reasonably cold environment and fresh water, it may JUST do the job. I am using it at Australian Coral Sea and the idiotically designed cooling system is just not up to the job here.
I got mine in last season. Used it a few times. Decent motor, I ust need a bit more speed. Keeping it anyway though!
It works well going downstream! :0)