I was using just glue and water, always got great flow consistency, vibrant color and good dry time. I've been painting for over 2 years with a big break in that time actually, so just got floetrol here recently and am now using that with just a little bit of water. But the problem I'm running into is it's not... well I'm not sure why when I tilt off the canvas, its staying a thicker layer on top then it is on the sides of the canvas. Any tips ?
I keep going back to the 99 center store I've been painting over a year...I think you said to fo one procedure for at least 10 pours. I finally agree after all my justices. Do I'm starting over listening to those that know. Haha thanks.
I have discovered that the only way to get any results that are consistent is to mix the paint up for each pour. Which is very time consuming. I am the kind of person that really likes to save some time and effort and do a batch and use what I have. I have found that the paint changes according to what type of paint it is and what it is mixed with. For example, the same paint with Floetrol behaves one way that day, and stored it breaks down and separates or it gets thick and globular in the course of 24 hours and changes still over a week’s time. A cadmium red by Liquitex does not like the pouring medium you may choose and works great with Artist’s Loft cadmium red. I have generally found that if I mix my paint about 50/50 with ModPodge, it gets almost instantly fluffy and light, very nice! Then I double that volume with Floetrol. So it ends up being about 50% Floetrol, 25% paint, 25% ModPodge. No other glue/binding agent makes the paint fluff up and feel as smooth and airy, but it is not air! Doesn’t have bubbles, it just somehow makes the viscosity change. It is really great for ring pours where you need the paint to stay seperate. Then to thin it if I am needing movement for effect, I add some polycrylic or a spritz or two of water to thin it ever so slightly. Polycrylic satin for mixing is what I use. If I am doing detail work where I need very distinct lines, I use untinted neutral house paint whatever base and finish I have. That is my next go-to medium. These same paints that get me good results cannot have leftovers. They stay perfect until the piece dries enough to stabilize, but if I try to use the rest of those leftovers the next day, they won’t work at all together.
I love when people give me great tips and why they do it. I am totally going to put this in my "try it out" file. Thanks you so much for taking the time to help the community learn.
@@LeftBrainedArtist omgosh, yes you do! It's really the only way my active brain can stay focused on sounds that help me sleep and not a million other things. Give it a go! I wish I had kept going w my channel but I'm not tech savvy lol thanks again for your videos. You're very welcoming :)
I began making my medium based on some of the very popular UA-cam artist recommended. About 2 years ago I found 6o% floetrol, 20% glue all, 15%paint 5% water & never use silicone as it was not considered “Professional” at that time & that floetrol alone will give great cells/pearls. After a while I learned glue all was also not considered a professional medium as it can yellow quickly over time so I removed it from my medium & just used floeteol, water & paint. (65%floetrol, 30% paint & 5% distilled water) That however started to give me problems with drying properly & lots of stretching the paint issues. I then purchased liquirex pouring medium in gloss & in iridescent. That was so thick it was leaving hard lines on my canvas. So this caused me to take a major break from paint pouring as I felt that I was just wasting time & money. I started back to basics & began mixing my paints at the time of my pour rather than mixing up giant squeeze bottles. I hadn’t realized initially thru this process that every type of pour needed different thicknesses of paint & some to be very watery like a Dutch pour. That was what my “ahh ha break through moment was”. It wasn’t the medium it was the thickness of my paint & what type of pour I was trying to achieve. I adore Riska Douna but I find it almost impossible to achieve a Dutch pour that I don’t scrape. I’ve taken ur advice & repeated working on just one kind of pour over n over & as that has helped me with every other pour I still can’t pull off a proper Dutch pour. Also pretty intimidated by swipe pours too!
Dutch is my next technique to tackle. The secret to the swipe i have found is the swipe paint needs to be just slightly thinner than the paint you are swiping over.
@@SnarkasticSunny Well thank u for the feedback, I don’t find many people take the time to acknowledge what truly helped & that can be frustrating when u begin ur journey. I am someone that needs to understand things in a rational way b4 I “get it” but once I have the moment that ties it all together it’s like a kid on Christmas morning. I find myself waking up in the middle of the night thinking about what I want to try tomorrow or so excited to go see the results from yesterdays pour!
Very informative. As of yet I have not landed on a mix that works every time for me. Fairly new to the art form so I am still on my learning curve. Thank you for taking the time to school us on mediums.
I was trying fluid art with premixed pouring paints and just bought some floetrol. Your channel is really helpful especially for a beginner like me, so thanks so much!!
This was GREAT! Thanks for all your testings. I am still exploring what I like best. Lots of times I use what each artist uses for their pour if I want to emulate what kind of pour they are doing. Your video encouraged me to come up with my own.
Definitely make whatever you do your own. A lot of us artists have been painting for years and replicating what we are doing isn't as easy as it looks. I can tell you I still can't replicate what Rinke Douna does with her Dutch pours. And I've tried . . . a lot.
Thank you so much for ALL your videos! I learn so much and the explanations make you understand WHY. I have found that if I’m using leftovers- with paints mixed with different pouring mediums, that I lose cells and it dries awfully. Chemistry at work I guess. Thanks for all your help!
Once again, a great learning video! It really does help those of us who are new to this and are trying to find our way. Thanks so much for sharing! Be happy and be well!
Only found your channel last week and I'm so glad I did. I have only been pouring for 11 months so still have loads to learn. Your videos are so helpful - thank you so much 😁
Haha. Yes and no. With anything, my advice is trust but verify. What works for me may not work as well for you. I do try to be as straight forward as possible and analytical with my painting and my teaching.
I did purchase a mixed set at Michael's And I was a bit disappointed. But again. I have to stay with one technique till I "get it" I don't mind experimenting. But it seemed al. Y paintings ended up looking the same. So I'm finally listening. It's more technical then I thought. Thank you again.
Thanks for great videos! I am from South Africa. I use latex additive for tile adhesives and grout. It is thin but can be mixed with glue. Without glue it also helps with cell development. A 5L is about R 170 so is very economical.
Aloha from Hawaii 🌺 LOVE your information great help just starting out in this craft. QUESTION: Does weather/seasons affect your projects & what is your adjustments?
I love the Artist Loft medium especially in ring pours, because it doesn't produce a lot of cells on its own. I recently started using Floetrol in my Dutch pours and I actually like the Floetrol for those because it isn't glossy like the Artist Loft, and you get cells with Floetrol. So my medium really depends on which pour style I'm doing.
So informative, thank you. I am going to try floetrol and artist loft together. I have been losing a bit of color in my ring pours with Artist loft pm, but love the finish. Hoping these 2 together will solve that problem
My findings so far...floetrol and Artist Loft pm do NOT like each other, no matter the ratios. So far, glue & water pm and Artist Loft seem to really get along great. I had to really play with the ratio. As soon as it dries tomorrow I will get back to you. Do you want me to send this info to you directly or post here?
So helpful, again! I used floetrol only with a little water at first with silicone. Wanting to do tight ring pours I added liquitex professional gloss medium and a tad GAC 800. I'm searching for the best cell activator and so far am going with Amsterdam white or black with h20!!
I appreciat the review here but kind of disappointed that you didn't include ratios. I know though that that would take quite a bit longer as you'd have to include what paints you're using for each one. Very much appreciate the artists here adding their mixes and ratios as well as the ones who mentioned to not even bother with premixing. Thanks for the video and for inviting others to chime in, makes it very interesting and informative reading the comments.
I have a different video on pouring mediums and ratios. ua-cam.com/video/Cr29LwAnXuA/v-deo.html This was just to point out when you might want to add additional mediums and why. Every situation will be different, especially with a secondary medium.
I use regular Elmers glue to mix up my mica powders keeps the mica powders from spitting out all over, Just mix very slowly, I than use the mica powders as my my paint... You can also add the mixture to your paint for excellent results! Beautiful colors..
I use 1 part paint, one part Liquitex gloss medium and varnish, 3 or 4 parts depending on density of paint, and water to consistency. I do my base coats with artists loft flow acrylic or a basic titanium white. I get amazing cells most of the time because I have found that paints mixed with different mediums (ie base mixed with just Floetrol, no gloss medium) than the colors create a great cell reaction due to contrast of elements. Plus: when you start with gloss medium/varnish your initial mix of paint always goes nice and smooth. Finally, I’ll use gloss medium and just a little water for 24k gold and other high intensity metallics as Floetrol does have a slightly dulling effect. Thoughts? Thanks for your channel -always great helpful tips.
There are so many great combinations of mediums, bases, colors, etc. I love that you've tested enough to find those different interactions. I've found the same just using Golden gloss and Golden matte mediums with different paints. Thanks for letting us in your mixing process and especially for explaining your reasoning and your results Dakota.
I just bought some of the Golden pouring med. to try. I usually use Floetrol and Liquitex for the gloss and a little bit of Gac 800 for crazing. I am hoping by using the Golden, I won't need to use the Gac 800 anymore.
I went to buy GAC 800 and it was out. Bought regular Golden pouring medium instead. Still got cracking. Mainly when I do bloom technique with house paint. Should I add something to the house paint or to the tube paints instead. Tube paints get untinted Base C plus polyacryllic lacquer.
I would say the house paint is probably the issue. It could be too thick where not enough is getting off the canvas during tilting or it could need a little GAC 800 to help strengthen it up.
Your videos are very helpful- even though we have been doing acrylic pour painting for a little while, I still find helpful info on your page. My husband and I use Floetrol the most, and I’m starting to use Elmers Glue All for swipes. We haven’t used the other medium much except for Artist’s Loft which is way too expensive.
So awesome that your husband enjoys doing your hobby/art with you!! That's priceless, in more ways than 1... May you always share an interest in each other's passions in life.
Loving this discussion! I have used floetrol, which was good. I made my own with polycrylic and untinted deep base, which was great. Now I am using the Liquitex and it is amazing for the work I am doing now. I have been experimenting with pouring a layer over a dried pour and the results are fantastic with the Liquitex. I know it’s expensive, however, I use very little paint with the medium. My mix is 3 parts medium to one part paint. I also like that I don’t need to varnish with the Liquitex because it’s glossy already and dries to a hard finish. One note with the Liquitex is that I haven’t seen any cells which is great for me but that may be the way I am using it.
Liquitex isn't a cell maker for sure. It doesn't like oil very much either. With your layers are you using transparent paint so that you can kind of see through the top layer? That sounds amazing.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I created one with Golden High Flow acylics and another with regular Arteza acrylics. The effect was similar on both. Yes, you can see the layers beneath. Just beginning with this technique and figuring out the possibilities and limits. There are two videos on my channel if you want to take a look.
I just ordered my first gallon of Liquitex and found it through a company online called Misterart.com They have the best price. I purchased a $25 VIP membership and prices are way better on everything. A gallon of Liquitex is $47.09 Jerry's Artarama has the best price for GAC but other than that, MisterArt you can't beat that! I use Rakuten and that is how I found them. It popped up and said "you can save $35 or $40....here" plus I always get 2% back. Veteran's Day, Michael's offered 11% back. I love great deals. Just wanted to share. Happy Painting!
Thank you for your answer to my previous question. Do you have a video on the different varnishes, Polyurethanes? Can I use them combined with any pouring medium? And what exactly do they do? Thank you!
Those I only use for finishing after my pours are complete dried and cured. I have a video about that here - ua-cam.com/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/v-deo.html I don't recommend you combine them with mediums. There are a few techniques like the Sheleeart bloom that use polycrylic or josanyas medium/varnish but that is about it.
I use Floetrol with a one to two ration and water yet my cells are coming out warped even if I add silicone? Do you have any suggestions? I have artist loft,liquitex basics, craft pains, extreme sheen and Deco art enamel metallics? I weigh every thing and still no cells now with the Deco art metallics I start with a one to one and add another 1/2-1 ounce Floetrol and water to get a medium consistency. And if I use only the Deco art Metallics silicone works and paintings come out great! Another question I have is how do I cover any cracks on my painting’s or dips on an uneven surface on my paintings?
It sounds like your paint is too thick. If you want nice round cells you want a mount upon a mound consistency. I wouldn't use any craft paints. Only AL or Liquitex. 1:2 ratio should work but you'll be putting very little water. I wouldn't worry about dips and non uniformity. That shows you have a unique piece of art and not a mass reproduction. That will bother you 1000x more than anyone that receives one of your paintings. Cracks are a little harder. Sometimes i leave them if they don't detract from the painting. Sometimes I use a syringe and fill them with a metallic paint and let it dry to give them some bling.
I am a beginner and I have been using Floetrol, but the book I bought says to use 1 part paint to 4 parts Floetrol, so I have done that and I have added silicone, but not really getting very big cells.
That seems like the mixture would be way too thin. I like using Glue when I use silicone cause it is so much thicker. Have you seen my video on this Deb? I'll link it just in case. ua-cam.com/video/MZhTSsGYmO4/v-deo.html
Thanks as always, David for your useful tips ! I tried Glue-All on a recent pour & really liked it--lots of little cells & effects I like, except it is kind of dull. Used a pouring medium called Mondo Llama which I got from Target (Personally, I don't recommend it due to cost). Nice shine, really brings out the colors. I'm planning a pour today using Deco Art pouring medium (wish me luck!).
Thanks for these videos I have gotten into pouring to help my mental health and the medium is an area I’m Struggling with esp the ratios I am mathematically challenged and cannot grasp the ratios easily as the consistentcy for each type tends to be different
A scale helps with that quite a bit. I you don't have that. Use a see through plastic cup. For small cups pour a tablespoon of water in the bottom and mark the line. Do that till the cup is full. Dump the water out and use that cup as your "guide" for all other cups. That way you can have this measuring cup next to your normal cup. If your ration is 1:1 you put paint in up to a line (say line 3) then pour medium in to line 6 (3 more from paint) then water in to line 7, etc. That is an easy way to have a visual measurement when you are using the same cups every time.
What about the liquitex in a gallon with the green label I bought it a long time ago it's almost empty and I have some in a squeeze bottle I think it's mixed with floetrol but I'm not sure because I forgot the market. And I keep asking myself what did I buy this for because I haven't used it for so long once again it's a liquitex in a gallon green label high gloss. Your thoughts?
That is just gloss medium not pouring medium. Made to add glossiness to paintings. It won't work the same but it will work. You'll have to use a lot of water to get it to a liquid form.
Thank you so much for all your help, so grateful! Have a question. Can I use Floetrol with Creative Inspirations paint. Or do I have to buy the Creative Inspirations medium? Thank you :D
Hello, I’ve been doing this about 4 months now. In the beginning I was using just glue and water. In the beginning I had some bad pours and some good. After watching a gazillion videos, I think I’m suffering a burnout associated with information overload. My pours seem to be getting worse even when I think I’m being very careful about the consistency. Sorry, I guess I’m venting. I do have a legitimate question….I think…..In your opinion, can I use a premixed pouring paint and a paint I’ve mixed together in a pour? Thanks.
Technically . . . yes you can use those together. However, mixing paint with different mediums doesn't always work out as planned. I did a test of that with Floetrol, Glue, and Liquitex pouring medium (all with different colors). It didn't go that great. ua-cam.com/video/4rMwCmpPBXQ/v-deo.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist Sorry, I need to get this straight in my head. So you’re saying if I’m going to use a premixed pouring paint, stick with the premix. Do not use one I’ve mixed myself as one of my colors in my pour…right? Me so slow 🤪…..Thanks!
David, as always we learn all the time from your informative videos. Can I ask you to help by giving specific ratios of Elmers Glue All to Water as a Pouring Medium and Pouring Medium to Paint using Arteza Premium, which I know you have worked with? Also the same question on ratios, using Australian Floetrol as a pouring medium. All my pours are way too thick, even when I’ve watched your videos showing consistency. Nearly all dry unevenly, colours and cells get trapped underneath. Thanks.
mix glue 70% glue and 30% water. That becomes your medium. Then mix 1 part Arteza paint to 3 parts of your 70/30 medium. Other paints I only do 2 parts medium cause they aren't as pigmented. Then add drops of water till you get the right consistency. Try dripping and making a small mount but no second mound (so it doesn't look like a poop emoji). A little uneven isn't a problem. Lots of uneveness mans one of more of the paints are thicker than the others. Try the drip test (dime size drop of each paint on a paper). Tilt all at the same time. They should all drip at the same rate. Slower than average needs more water. Faster than average needs more paint or thick medium.
I use basically the same PM you do (Floetrol, Glue-All, and Liquitex) plus GAC-800 to prevent paint cracks. Lately, thanks to you, I am alternating Elmer's with Smart Craft glue, which is fantastic!
If I want to use Floetrol and Glue All with water as a pouring medium to get bigger cells, what ratio should they be? Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge.
You won't get big cells with just floetrol unless you thin it way down (barely a mound) and use a cell creator also (metallic paint, some yellows, etc.) or you use silicone. If you are using silicone you can use any mixture of the two and get nice cells.
have you try using a little vegetable glycerin to your PVA glue medium? it gives it a nice sheen or eve floetrol...have you tried Creative Inspiration Medium and Varnish the finish is beautiful from Jerrys Artarama is 21$ for Half gallon and there're sales
This is from Golden Paints Technical Notes on Drying "Some situations call for chemical agents that retard the drying of acrylic paint. These are usually a blend of several materials, predominantly glycols. By evaporating far more slowly than water, glycols keep the polymer spheres apart, preventing early coalescence. Humectants, (agents, such as glycerin, that absorb or hold water), also have been added to retard or slow drying. However, humectants must be used with extreme care, as they tend to percolate to the surface of the film during drying leaving a residue that may reduce inter-coat adhesion. Retarders are not very effective if paint must stay wet in thin films on very absorbent surfaces."
pity you dont at all mention amsterdam colours etc., but all of your videos are ever so helpful!!!Ysing only Floetrol and Liquitex, can I add Liquitex varnish gloss in the pouring m.? or is this ONLY for afterwards to varnish the canvas
I have used Amsterdam, especially for the Shelee Art paint blooms. You can definitely use the varnish for a pour. It has a bit different properties and dries faster than normal pouring medium so it can potentially cause cracking if it dries too fast.
There is one thing that bothers me & that is why AUSTRALIAN Floetrol makes more cells than US Floetrol I found that the Aussie Floetrol looked almost oily when I was swiping. Could that be the missing ingredient? If you can enlighten me on this I would appreciate it. Thanks Joyce
There is definitely some sort of additive that makes it better for swipes but it isn't a traditional oil we use. At some point I'd love to figure that out. Save us all in the states a bundle trying to get Aussie floetrol.
Many thanks for the info, it's so kind of you...newbie here. There's no GAC 800 in my country but there's GAC900. Have you ever used it? I wonder whether they're more or less the same or maybe very different. Thanks again...stay healthy n blessed.🙂⚘
Btw there's Tesla acrylic paint made in indonesia...but i can't compare it with any other brands yet. They do put pigment info on the label (PY14 for Azo lemon yellow) but i don't know what it means...it comes in pots, they hv fluo but no metallic.
I use glue, water, and a gloss medium/varnish. With just enough paint to get color, usually in a 3oz dixi cup ill put like a glob or 2 not even a 1:1 or 1:2 colors are fine, get nice outcomes but cells arent as abundant and large unless i use too much silicone but get the bumps from glue
hi dave well maybe i am not mixing the glue all rght but what i have found for me it seems to be really sticky and lots of air bubbles and seems to dry the paint fast . i need to get a scale to measure correctly ! so idk i am confused by the glue all . thanks for the video ! what do you use to varnish with ?
You can leave overnight in a sealed container and the bubbles will be gone. I usually varnish with Liquitex Gloss Varnish. I have found ito be the most user friendly.
Have you ever heard of or tested Acrilex pouring medium by Hietz Jordon & Co.? I bought some today and can't seem to find it online anywhere. Is that the same company that makes Golden?
Depends on what I am trying to achieve. Normally I don't use more than 1 pouring mediume (Floetrol or Glue) but sometimes I add a tiny bit of another medium to help change the effects. Eg a tiny bit of GAC800 to increase strength or a tiny bit of Liquitex to make it more of a glassy finish. I rarely do any kind of 50-50 of 2 mediums with the exception being the Sheleeart Blooms and swipes.
I'm Australian so I use mont marte clear PVC 60% water 20% and 10% flotrol (the Aussie sort). I ordered some mont marte gloss medium and their pouring medium which I'm going to play around with on Monday.
I use the clear pva because it has a slight gloss but also helps to bind the paint nicely and the flotrol to smooth the paint out and add just a few cells. It also says really flat which I like.
Have you ever tried Amsterdam pouring medium or Pebeo PM or Pebeo Bindex. Doing my own experiments, but, value your opinion. Oh & glyco monoproplyne , like they use in vape mixtures. Seems to be one of the main ingredients in floetrol ( plus liquid latex) Trying to find out the science behind the ingredients....ha! Ha! Let's see! Much appreciated!
@@LeftBrainedArtist it seems that builders PVA & Mono propylene are main ingredients of floetrol. The scientist in me is curious. I love collaboration. Add a bit of bindex, hopefully a cheaper & more accessible to more people. I'm just too shy & have safety issues due to domestic violence. You're a gem! Thankyou!
Use 1 pouring medium to start with Jessica. Then move in to adding more once you've gotten the results you want from that one. I recommend Floetrol or Glue-All if you are just starting out. You can't do blooms with those but most other techniques should be achievable.
Watched all of your UA-cam videos - great information and very helpful - thank you. Living in South Africa is a little more challenging - many of the products are not available and those that are, are simply way too expensive for a newbie to be practicing with. I use Khoki White Craft Glue mixed 80 : 20 distilled or filtered water as my pouring medium and a local acrylic paint made by Dala or Iris at 1 part paint : 2 parts P.M. I tried a pouring medium made by a local company (rather pricey) but it does not play nicely with paints mixed with the glue pouring medium. Once dried, the colours separate/look flakey and almost all my paintings have serious cracking issues. So back to the glue and water pouring medium. Back to basics.
The basics are generally where it is at. I try and add in other techniques and materials slowly and with purpose to limit my variables so troubleshooting is easy and straight forward.
I am also from South Africa. I use latex additive for tile adhesives and grout. It is thin but can be mixed with glue if you want thicker consistency. Is about R170 for 5 L. Without glue it also helps with cell development.
@@lisaaggenbag1474 Hi Lisa, I'm in Hillcrest KZN. How long have you been acrylic pouring? Joined a beginners class late September, basically brand new to creative art of any sort.
Focus on one thing you are trying to change based on a previous pour. Make that small change and pour again. Then do the same on the next one. You can't do it all at once so try to narrow down what you are going to work on.
I typically mix elmers glue with water. I use school glue. About 50/50, I read about modpodge so I think I’ll add that in my next batch to see what happens. It would be great if you would address epoxy. I have used Stone Coat and that has a nice working time. I recently bought another brand at hobby lobby and I didn’t get my project finished when the epoxy got hot and started to set up in the mixing container. It was awful! I have been on the search for something less toxic smelling. Love the epoxy look and hate the smell! . I’m going to try some of your suggestions and see what happens. I use treadmill belt lubricant to get cells and it works well with my paints, I’m in the process of experimenting with different paint brands.
I probably won't do too much epoxy on this channel for a while. However, I have gotten some great epoxy like shine from multiple coats of Liquitex Gloss Varnish. 3 gives a great sheen but still shows a little of the larger surface imperfections. 5 or 6 coats and you get as close as I've seen to epoxy at a fraction of the cost. Not quite 100% smooth but a very nice finish otherwise.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I ordered some Liquitex and I’m looking forward to trying it out. I have used polyurethane and it gives a nice sheen. I hoping the Liquitex is somewhere in the middle. Thanks for the information!
I love the Golden Gloss Pouring Medium & Liquitex PM - I recently bought Golden Matte Medium but I absolutely cannot get it to work on its own! I’ve never used a “matte” medium before - have you used this or any advise on how to make it work on its own? I have made it work mixing it with the Golden Gloss PM but that’s hard to get at the moment in the UK in the large container I’d like to have :( Also my usual trick for when I’m adding water for thinner recipes is to add an acrylic binding medium such as Pebeo Bindex - it’s a thin consistency so it doesn’t affect too much! I’ve found it’s mixed well with any PM I’ve used so far and PVA glue.
Were you using matte medium or matte pouring medium? Those are two completely different things. On to give a thicker less shiny texture to paint and one to do the same but to make thinner. I made that mistake the first time I bought it. A while ago I used the matt pouring medium along with regular pouring medium to see what effect I would get. It was more of a transparent wash look. ua-cam.com/video/YzkZI5ySur0/v-deo.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist it was the matte pouring medium, sorry correction! I’m having issues getting it to work straight, without adding any binder or other additive, even following Golden’s guide seems a bit off like the paints are so thick 🤔 I’m still experimenting! Unsure on what technique best suits a matte look
If you are letting it dry I either do just paint or add just a little bit of medium to make it easier to cover everything. If I am leaving it wet I make it the same way I do the other paints with the same consistency.
I hope to your next video sir is the measurement of your fluid paint , how many percent, what do you used to measure , is it drops or what . THANKYOUUU❤️❤️
I have a video about mixing paint in my playlist for new acrylic pour artists (picture of the blue and red paint on a scale). It varies with every paint and pouring mediums slightly but that is a great place to start.
Just bought a big batch of liquidtex pouring medium based on your analysis. What proportion should i begin to add in to my mix? I have been using a 50/50 glue all and flotrol.
Depends on how you are using it. By itself you start at 1:1 paint to medium and add more to get the right consistency. Ultimately you end up at 2:1 or more depending the quality of paint/pigment. If you are adding to your other medium to give sheen you only need about 25%.
Hello there my bloom pours were crazing so I bought some gac 800 but couldn’t find any instructions and the information on the bottle wasn’t clear for me to use it so I ended up putting far to much in paints which made it too smooth do you have any information on the amount I should use please😊
10% is plenty to add the strength that you are looking for. I would also thin your pillow paint slightly with water. Cracking usually happens because it is too think or too hot where they are drying.
Hello again David, I'm referring to your pages constantly! I've just purchased Golden Color Pouring Medium Gloss and don't want to use it exclusively as a medium...way too expensive in Canada! How can I use it as an additive to improve my Floetrol or Glue-All mixture? I also just purchased Liquitex Gloss Gel Medium. I'm not sure how to use it as an additive either! Did I buy the right stuff?
A tablespoon or so per 3 ounces of paint is plenty to give some shine and some extra binding power to your paint. Gloss gel medium can be used with mica powder to make your own paint. A teaspoon or so of mica and the same gel medium, mix well, then use that just like you would normal paint with your pouring medium. You might use slightly less medium with micas to make sure they keep their shine.
@@LeftBrainedArtist geez, I didn't think I'd need that much...3 oz of paint isn't much. Would you save it for using with good quality paint or the lesser quality? I don't use mica powder, at least not yet, so it looks like I bought the wrong stuff. Darn!
School glue is less potent than Glue-All. This is so that it is easier to cleanup and not as permanent when used in the classroom setting. You can use it but you need a lot less water to thin it. In the US those glue's cost about the same so I always stick with the higher potency glue like Glue-All.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you so much, I am living in the Middle east and we don't have access to the same materials and supplies. I looking for means and ways to work with what we have. Thank you for your support and community.
Pouring medium is specifically made for to thin your paint for pouring applications. Gloss medium is meant to add gloss to your acrylic paint and not necessarily thin it.
What is your favorite pouring medium combination?
I was using just glue and water, always got great flow consistency, vibrant color and good dry time. I've been painting for over 2 years with a big break in that time actually, so just got floetrol here recently and am now using that with just a little bit of water. But the problem I'm running into is it's not... well I'm not sure why when I tilt off the canvas, its staying a thicker layer on top then it is on the sides of the canvas. Any tips ?
I keep going back to the 99 center store I've been painting over a year...I think you said to fo one procedure for at least 10 pours. I finally agree after all my justices. Do I'm starting over listening to those that know. Haha thanks.
I have discovered that the only way to get any results that are consistent is to mix the paint up for each pour. Which is very time consuming. I am the kind of person that really likes to save some time and effort and do a batch and use what I have. I have found that the paint changes according to what type of paint it is and what it is mixed with. For example, the same paint with Floetrol behaves one way that day, and stored it breaks down and separates or it gets thick and globular in the course of 24 hours and changes still over a week’s time. A cadmium red by Liquitex does not like the pouring medium you may choose and works great with Artist’s Loft cadmium red.
I have generally found that if I mix my paint about 50/50 with ModPodge, it gets almost instantly fluffy and light, very nice! Then I double that volume with Floetrol. So it ends up being about 50% Floetrol, 25% paint, 25% ModPodge. No other glue/binding agent makes the paint fluff up and feel as smooth and airy, but it is not air! Doesn’t have bubbles, it just somehow makes the viscosity change. It is really great for ring pours where you need the paint to stay seperate. Then to thin it if I am needing movement for effect, I add some polycrylic or a spritz or two of water to thin it ever so slightly. Polycrylic satin for mixing is what I use.
If I am doing detail work where I need very distinct lines, I use untinted neutral house paint whatever base and finish I have. That is my next go-to medium. These same paints that get me good results cannot have leftovers. They stay perfect until the piece dries enough to stabilize, but if I try to use the rest of those leftovers the next day, they won’t work at all together.
I love when people give me great tips and why they do it. I am totally going to put this in my "try it out" file. Thanks you so much for taking the time to help the community learn.
Really interesting stuff, thanks for sharing!
Kind of a late question but what kind of modpodge do you use? Shiny? Thx :)
Wow! Lots of good experiential info -- thanks!
You are such a GIFT to all of us in Paint Pouring Nation. Thank you.
Aw shucks Pamela. That made my morning.
Thank you for your videos. I've found you to be the most informative and easy going artist I've watched on here. Appreciate it!!
Awesome! Thank you! I appreciate the chat. Your UA-cam name reminded me that I need to try an ASMR video one of these days.
@@LeftBrainedArtist omgosh, yes you do! It's really the only way my active brain can stay focused on sounds that help me sleep and not a million other things. Give it a go! I wish I had kept going w my channel but I'm not tech savvy lol thanks again for your videos. You're very welcoming :)
I began making my medium based on some of the very popular UA-cam artist recommended. About 2 years ago I found 6o% floetrol, 20% glue all, 15%paint 5% water & never use silicone as it was not considered “Professional” at that time & that floetrol alone will give great cells/pearls. After a while I learned glue all was also not considered a professional medium as it can yellow quickly over time so I removed it from my medium & just used floeteol, water & paint. (65%floetrol, 30% paint & 5% distilled water) That however started to give me problems with drying properly & lots of stretching the paint issues. I then purchased liquirex pouring medium in gloss & in iridescent. That was so thick it was leaving hard lines on my canvas. So this caused me to take a major break from paint pouring as I felt that I was just wasting time & money. I started back to basics & began mixing my paints at the time of my pour rather than mixing up giant squeeze bottles. I hadn’t realized initially thru this process that every type of pour needed different thicknesses of paint & some to be very watery like a Dutch pour. That was what my “ahh ha break through moment was”. It wasn’t the medium it was the thickness of my paint & what type of pour I was trying to achieve. I adore Riska Douna but I find it almost impossible to achieve a Dutch pour that I don’t scrape. I’ve taken ur advice & repeated working on just one kind of pour over n over & as that has helped me with every other pour I still can’t pull off a proper Dutch pour. Also pretty intimidated by swipe pours too!
Dutch is my next technique to tackle. The secret to the swipe i have found is the swipe paint needs to be just slightly thinner than the paint you are swiping over.
Thank you for sharing - not just what you found out, but also the story of how! Very helpful to me!🤓
@@SnarkasticSunny Well thank u for the feedback, I don’t find many people take the time to acknowledge what truly helped & that can be frustrating when u begin ur journey. I am someone that needs to understand things in a rational way b4 I “get it” but once I have the moment that ties it all together it’s like a kid on Christmas morning. I find myself waking up in the middle of the night thinking about what I want to try tomorrow or so excited to go see the results from yesterdays pour!
You are the best teacher & I like how your brain works!?!
Thank you! 😃
Very informative. As of yet I have not landed on a mix that works every time for me. Fairly new to the art form so I am still on my learning curve. Thank you for taking the time to school us on mediums.
Let us know if you find a great mix that you love Linda.
Thank you! I love your videos and the way you share!!! I’m a beginner and I have learned so much from your productions… thanks for the details 💜
Glad to help Frances.
THANK YOU, DAVID, 🙏🙏🙏 FOR ALL THE TIPS, YOU ARE A WONDERFUL TEACHER, 👏👍🤗 GREETINGS AND BLESSINGS FROM 🇲🇽.
Thank you! 😃
I was trying fluid art with premixed pouring paints and just bought some floetrol. Your channel is really helpful especially for a beginner like me, so thanks so much!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you so much. I am new to this format of art and confused. I learned quite a bit and will watch more
You are so welcome!
Your videos are always so amazing! So informative and helpful. Thank you so much
You are so welcome Monica. Thanks for watching.
I NEED THAT T SHIRT!!!!!!!
Lol. One of my favs for sure.
Your videos are fantastic...so informative. Thank you🙏🙏🙏
You are so welcome!
Excellent tutorial. Clears up questions for me. Thank you
Great to hear Annie.
Amazing video! Please don't stop making them! It answered many of my questions. God bless. Mily
More to come for sure Mily. Thanks for watching.
This was GREAT! Thanks for all your testings. I am still exploring what I like best. Lots of times I use what each artist uses for their pour if I want to emulate what kind of pour they are doing. Your video encouraged me to come up with my own.
Definitely make whatever you do your own. A lot of us artists have been painting for years and replicating what we are doing isn't as easy as it looks. I can tell you I still can't replicate what Rinke Douna does with her Dutch pours. And I've tried . . . a lot.
I just watched Rinske because you mentioned her work. Yes, she is very talented.
Love her Dutch pours. I need to do more testing with that technique.
Thank you so much for ALL your videos! I learn so much and the explanations make you understand WHY. I have found that if I’m using leftovers- with paints mixed with different pouring mediums, that I lose cells and it dries awfully. Chemistry at work I guess. Thanks for all your help!
You are so welcome Barbara! Also, if you have questions I haven't answered then please ask away. 8)
Love your videos! Thanks so much 🙏🌹
You are so welcome Carole. Thanks for watching.
So glad I found you.
I am glad to hear that.
Once again, a great learning video! It really does help those of us who are new to this and are trying to find our way. Thanks so much for sharing! Be happy and be well!
My pleasure!
Hi, I started with Floetrol and I recently bought glue-all to give it a try, as you said... less expensive. Thanks again for the tips. Merci👌
Good luck. I use Glue and Floetrol a lot so I know you can get great results with those, even on a budget.
Try mixing them. I use two parts Floetrol to one part glue and get lots of cells.
another great informative medium video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love the unique way you are presenting. Really helpful. Thanks. TOOM@CapeTown
I appreciate that Fatoom.
Good job, guy.
Thanks so much Ma.
Only found your channel last week and I'm so glad I did. I have only been pouring for 11 months so still have loads to learn. Your videos are so helpful - thank you so much 😁
11 months means you can teach the rest of the community some things I think. Glad it is helpful. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thank you so much for this video, it helps alot for newbie's like me. Also, love your shirt
You are so welcome!
So glad i found you. Just starting. Thank you.
You are so welcome!
Can the answer to "Why do you use it?" be "Cuz David said so?" 😁
Haha. Yes and no. With anything, my advice is trust but verify. What works for me may not work as well for you. I do try to be as straight forward as possible and analytical with my painting and my teaching.
I did purchase a mixed set at Michael's And I was a bit disappointed. But again. I have to stay with one technique till I "get it" I don't mind experimenting. But it seemed al. Y paintings ended up looking the same. So I'm finally listening. It's more technical then I thought. Thank you again.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you again so much for this video! Thx to you, now I know why one of my painting cracked!
You are so welcome Karine. Glad you were able to figure that out.
Thank you so so much.
Always my pleasure.
Thanks for great videos! I am from South Africa. I use latex additive for tile adhesives and grout. It is thin but can be mixed with glue. Without glue it also helps with cell development. A 5L is about R 170 so is very economical.
Thanks for the international tip. My in laws lived in Johannesburg for a 18 months. They loved it there.
Have you found one that dries clear? Most I've experimented with always dry with a yellow undertone. Many thanks.
Aloha from Hawaii 🌺 LOVE your information great help just starting out in this craft.
QUESTION:
Does weather/seasons affect your projects & what is your adjustments?
Yes. Very moise climates will take longer for your painting to dry. Opposite for dry climate.
Great information. Delivered extremely well. Keep sharing your knowledge in your style . Thank you
So nice of you
I love the Artist Loft medium especially in ring pours, because it doesn't produce a lot of cells on its own. I recently started using Floetrol in my Dutch pours and I actually like the Floetrol for those because it isn't glossy like the Artist Loft, and you get cells with Floetrol. So my medium really depends on which pour style I'm doing.
Great points definitely. I am in the same boat but I use GAC and Liquitex for my no cell mixtures.
So informative, thank you. I am going to try floetrol and artist loft together. I have been losing a bit of color in my ring pours with Artist loft pm, but love the finish. Hoping these 2 together will solve that problem
Let me know how it turns out. The info from little tweaks like that is solid gold for the Pouring Nation community.
My findings so far...floetrol and Artist Loft pm do NOT like each other, no matter the ratios. So far, glue & water pm and Artist Loft seem to really get along great. I had to really play with the ratio. As soon as it dries tomorrow I will get back to you. Do you want me to send this info to you directly or post here?
So helpful, again! I used floetrol only with a little water at first with silicone. Wanting to do tight ring pours I added liquitex professional gloss medium and a tad GAC 800. I'm searching for the best cell activator and so far am going with Amsterdam white or black with h20!!
All good choices. Sounds like you are well on your way alreayd.
Thanks so much, I learned a lot!
Glad it was helpful Catherine. Good luck.
Thank you again!
Any time!
I appreciat the review here but kind of disappointed that you didn't include ratios. I know though that that would take quite a bit longer as you'd have to include what paints you're using for each one. Very much appreciate the artists here adding their mixes and ratios as well as the ones who mentioned to not even bother with premixing. Thanks for the video and for inviting others to chime in, makes it very interesting and informative reading the comments.
I have a different video on pouring mediums and ratios. ua-cam.com/video/Cr29LwAnXuA/v-deo.html This was just to point out when you might want to add additional mediums and why. Every situation will be different, especially with a secondary medium.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thank you!
Thanks again!! You’ve given great information and I really appreciate it!
Happy to help!
I use regular Elmers glue to mix up my mica powders keeps the mica powders from spitting out all over, Just mix very slowly, I than use the mica powders as my my paint... You can also add the mixture to your paint for excellent results! Beautiful colors..
Great tip Dolores. Thanks!
I use 1 part paint, one part Liquitex gloss medium and varnish, 3 or 4 parts depending on density of paint, and water to consistency. I do my base coats with artists loft flow acrylic or a basic titanium white. I get amazing cells most of the time because I have found that paints mixed with different mediums (ie base mixed with just Floetrol, no gloss medium) than the colors create a great cell reaction due to contrast of elements. Plus: when you start with gloss medium/varnish your initial mix of paint always goes nice and smooth. Finally, I’ll use gloss medium and just a little water for 24k gold and other high intensity metallics as Floetrol does have a slightly dulling effect. Thoughts? Thanks for your channel -always great helpful tips.
There are so many great combinations of mediums, bases, colors, etc. I love that you've tested enough to find those different interactions. I've found the same just using Golden gloss and Golden matte mediums with different paints. Thanks for letting us in your mixing process and especially for explaining your reasoning and your results Dakota.
@@LeftBrainedArtist do you also use floetrol or do just mix with water?
Yeah! Ditto what he said in reply...good stuff to know! Rhanks much!
Thank you so much for the information I would request if you can show the art effects also which these mediums give
I did videos on each one that show how they interact differently. You can find a list of them in this video - ua-cam.com/video/Cr29LwAnXuA/v-deo.html
I use 70% floetrol, 25% glue all, and 5% gac 800 seems that i have less cracking and more vibrant colors and good structure in the cells
Thanks for that recipe. I don't think I've tried quite those ratios.
Great shirt!
TY. I have a collection of sarcastic T-shirts my family has been building for me.
I just bought some of the Golden pouring med. to try. I usually use Floetrol and Liquitex for the gloss and a little bit of Gac 800 for crazing. I am hoping by using the Golden, I won't need to use the Gac 800 anymore.
It should work great. Let me know if you find any ninja tricks with it Joey.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Haha, Ninja, good one! I'll let you know!
I use Deco Arts medium with floetrol to get a more glossy finish
Excellent. That is exactly why I would expect someone to mix mediums.
I went to buy GAC 800 and it was out. Bought regular Golden pouring medium instead. Still got cracking. Mainly when I do bloom technique with house paint. Should I add something to the house paint or to the tube paints instead. Tube paints get untinted Base C plus polyacryllic lacquer.
I would say the house paint is probably the issue. It could be too thick where not enough is getting off the canvas during tilting or it could need a little GAC 800 to help strengthen it up.
Your videos are very helpful- even though we have been doing acrylic pour painting for a little while, I still find helpful info on your page.
My husband and I use Floetrol the most, and I’m starting to use Elmers Glue All for swipes. We haven’t used the other medium much except for Artist’s Loft which is way too expensive.
Yeah, unless you are getting the others in bulk they are really expensive compared to glue and Floetrol.
So awesome that your husband enjoys doing your hobby/art with you!!
That's priceless, in more ways than 1... May you always share an interest in each other's passions in life.
Loving this discussion! I have used floetrol, which was good. I made my own with polycrylic and untinted deep base, which was great. Now I am using the Liquitex and it is amazing for the work I am doing now. I have been experimenting with pouring a layer over a dried pour and the results are fantastic with the Liquitex. I know it’s expensive, however, I use very little paint with the medium. My mix is 3 parts medium to one part paint. I also like that I don’t need to varnish with the Liquitex because it’s glossy already and dries to a hard finish. One note with the Liquitex is that I haven’t seen any cells which is great for me but that may be the way I am using it.
Liquitex isn't a cell maker for sure. It doesn't like oil very much either. With your layers are you using transparent paint so that you can kind of see through the top layer? That sounds amazing.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I created one with Golden High Flow acylics and another with regular Arteza acrylics. The effect was similar on both. Yes, you can see the layers beneath. Just beginning with this technique and figuring out the possibilities and limits. There are two videos on my channel if you want to take a look.
I just ordered my first gallon of Liquitex and found it through a company online called Misterart.com They have the best price. I purchased a $25 VIP membership and prices are way better on everything. A gallon of Liquitex is $47.09 Jerry's Artarama has the best price for GAC but other than that, MisterArt you can't beat that! I use Rakuten and that is how I found them. It popped up and said "you can save $35 or $40....here" plus I always get 2% back. Veteran's Day, Michael's offered 11% back. I love great deals. Just wanted to share. Happy Painting!
Good to know what,when and where to use which pm 👏🏻💚🌈
These aren't the only reasons but some of the more common ones I have found.
Thank you for your answer to my previous question. Do you have a video on the different varnishes, Polyurethanes? Can I use them combined with any pouring medium? And what exactly do they do? Thank you!
Those I only use for finishing after my pours are complete dried and cured. I have a video about that here - ua-cam.com/video/4VqHUG1ZevU/v-deo.html
I don't recommend you combine them with mediums. There are a few techniques like the Sheleeart bloom that use polycrylic or josanyas medium/varnish but that is about it.
I use Floetrol with a one to two ration and water yet my cells are coming out warped even if I add silicone? Do you have any suggestions? I have artist loft,liquitex basics, craft pains, extreme sheen and Deco art enamel metallics? I weigh every thing and still no cells now with the Deco art metallics I start with a one to one and add another 1/2-1 ounce Floetrol and water to get a medium consistency.
And if I use only the Deco art Metallics silicone works and paintings come out great!
Another question I have is how do I cover any cracks on my painting’s or dips on an uneven surface on my paintings?
It sounds like your paint is too thick. If you want nice round cells you want a mount upon a mound consistency. I wouldn't use any craft paints. Only AL or Liquitex. 1:2 ratio should work but you'll be putting very little water.
I wouldn't worry about dips and non uniformity. That shows you have a unique piece of art and not a mass reproduction. That will bother you 1000x more than anyone that receives one of your paintings.
Cracks are a little harder. Sometimes i leave them if they don't detract from the painting. Sometimes I use a syringe and fill them with a metallic paint and let it dry to give them some bling.
I am a beginner and I have been using Floetrol, but the book I bought says to use 1 part paint to 4 parts Floetrol, so I have done that and I have added silicone, but not really getting very big cells.
That seems like the mixture would be way too thin. I like using Glue when I use silicone cause it is so much thicker. Have you seen my video on this Deb? I'll link it just in case. ua-cam.com/video/MZhTSsGYmO4/v-deo.html
very informative! I use clear glue, with flo or liquitex, silicone. Depends on what I'm doing!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks as always, David for your useful tips ! I tried Glue-All on a recent pour & really liked it--lots of little cells & effects I like, except it is kind of dull. Used a pouring medium called Mondo Llama which I got from Target (Personally, I don't recommend it due to cost). Nice shine, really brings out the colors. I'm planning a pour today using Deco Art pouring medium (wish me luck!).
I recommend always putting on a varnish after a few weeks. It will bring out any dull colors you might have.
I like using pre-mixed paints. It’s just a lot easier for me.
That isn't in a lot of people's budget but if you can it does save a lot of time and effort.
Thanks for these videos I have gotten into pouring to help my mental health and the medium is an area I’m
Struggling with esp the ratios I am mathematically challenged and cannot grasp the ratios easily as the consistentcy for each type tends to be different
A scale helps with that quite a bit. I you don't have that. Use a see through plastic cup. For small cups pour a tablespoon of water in the bottom and mark the line. Do that till the cup is full. Dump the water out and use that cup as your "guide" for all other cups. That way you can have this measuring cup next to your normal cup. If your ration is 1:1 you put paint in up to a line (say line 3) then pour medium in to line 6 (3 more from paint) then water in to line 7, etc. That is an easy way to have a visual measurement when you are using the same cups every time.
What about the liquitex in a gallon with the green label I bought it a long time ago it's almost empty and I have some in a squeeze bottle I think it's mixed with floetrol but I'm not sure because I forgot the market. And I keep asking myself what did I buy this for because I haven't used it for so long once again it's a liquitex in a gallon green label high gloss. Your thoughts?
That is just gloss medium not pouring medium. Made to add glossiness to paintings. It won't work the same but it will work. You'll have to use a lot of water to get it to a liquid form.
Thank you so much for all your help, so grateful! Have a question. Can I use Floetrol with Creative Inspirations paint. Or do I have to buy the Creative Inspirations medium? Thank you :D
You can totally use Floetrol with any acrylic paint including creative inspirations.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you for your time and getting back to me. :D
Hello, I’ve been doing this about 4 months now. In the beginning I was using just glue and water. In the beginning I had some bad pours and some good. After watching a gazillion videos, I think I’m suffering a burnout associated with information overload. My pours seem to be getting worse even when I think I’m being very careful about the consistency. Sorry, I guess I’m venting. I do have a legitimate question….I think…..In your opinion, can I use a premixed pouring paint and a paint I’ve mixed together in a pour? Thanks.
Technically . . . yes you can use those together. However, mixing paint with different mediums doesn't always work out as planned. I did a test of that with Floetrol, Glue, and Liquitex pouring medium (all with different colors). It didn't go that great. ua-cam.com/video/4rMwCmpPBXQ/v-deo.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist Sorry, I need to get this straight in my head. So you’re saying if I’m going to use a premixed pouring paint, stick with the premix. Do not use one I’ve mixed myself as one of my colors in my pour…right? Me so slow 🤪…..Thanks!
Hey! I need that T-shirt. Would save me explaining it.
So freaking true Roberta!
David, as always we learn all the time from your informative videos. Can I ask you to help by giving specific ratios of Elmers Glue All to Water as a Pouring Medium and Pouring Medium to Paint using Arteza Premium, which I know you have worked with? Also the same question on ratios, using Australian Floetrol as a pouring medium. All my pours are way too thick, even when I’ve watched your videos showing consistency. Nearly all dry unevenly, colours and cells get trapped underneath. Thanks.
mix glue 70% glue and 30% water. That becomes your medium. Then mix 1 part Arteza paint to 3 parts of your 70/30 medium. Other paints I only do 2 parts medium cause they aren't as pigmented. Then add drops of water till you get the right consistency. Try dripping and making a small mount but no second mound (so it doesn't look like a poop emoji). A little uneven isn't a problem. Lots of uneveness mans one of more of the paints are thicker than the others. Try the drip test (dime size drop of each paint on a paper). Tilt all at the same time. They should all drip at the same rate. Slower than average needs more water. Faster than average needs more paint or thick medium.
I use basically the same PM you do (Floetrol, Glue-All, and Liquitex) plus GAC-800 to prevent paint cracks. Lately, thanks to you, I am alternating Elmer's with Smart Craft glue, which is fantastic!
Sweet. FYI my middle name is Shelton (my son's name is Shelton too). Our here in Utah there are a bunch of us all related.
@@LeftBrainedArtist That's awesome! I live in Utah too!
@@LeftBrainedArtist I don't know if I commented you in a different video, but I live in Utah also!
Hi i want to have a lot og cells in My painting 😊what is the Best to do 😊😊😊thanks from denmark 😊😊😊
Use silicone, use floetrol, or do a swipe type technique for the best cells/lacing.
If I want to use Floetrol and Glue All with water as a pouring medium to get bigger cells, what ratio should they be? Thanks for sharing your extensive knowledge.
You won't get big cells with just floetrol unless you thin it way down (barely a mound) and use a cell creator also (metallic paint, some yellows, etc.) or you use silicone. If you are using silicone you can use any mixture of the two and get nice cells.
have you try using a little vegetable glycerin to your PVA glue medium? it gives it a nice sheen or eve floetrol...have you tried Creative Inspiration Medium and Varnish the finish is beautiful from Jerrys Artarama is 21$ for Half gallon and there're sales
Thanks for the tip! I don't even know what that is but I'm doing some research now.
This is from Golden Paints Technical Notes on Drying "Some situations call for chemical agents that retard the drying of acrylic paint. These are usually a blend of several materials, predominantly glycols. By evaporating far more slowly than water, glycols keep the polymer spheres apart, preventing early coalescence. Humectants, (agents, such as glycerin, that absorb or hold water), also have been added to retard or slow drying. However, humectants must be used with extreme care, as they tend to percolate to the surface of the film during drying leaving a residue that may reduce inter-coat adhesion. Retarders are not very effective if paint must stay wet in thin films on very absorbent surfaces."
Another great video. Do you have a pdf chart with these results we could download?
No, sorry but that is a great idea David. I honestly hadn't thought of it. Maybe sometime in the near future.
Is it used for plain acrylic paint or the one already mixed and ready to pour?
These you would add to plain paint. Read-To-Pour already has medium and water added.
@@LeftBrainedArtist what would happen if i mix some medium in the ready to pour paint? More cells?
pity you dont at all
mention amsterdam colours etc., but all of your videos are ever so helpful!!!Ysing only Floetrol and Liquitex, can I add Liquitex varnish gloss in the pouring m.? or is this ONLY for afterwards to varnish the canvas
I have used Amsterdam, especially for the Shelee Art paint blooms.
You can definitely use the varnish for a pour. It has a bit different properties and dries faster than normal pouring medium so it can potentially cause cracking if it dries too fast.
Thank you for the review and your recommendations for each pouring medium. Have you used Viva Decor pouring medium and did you give a review on it?
Not yet but I'll add it to my list.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you. I went to the website and they actually offer two viscosities of the pouring medium. It can be purchased on Amazon.
Nice shirts
Thanks Nash.
There is one thing that bothers me & that is why AUSTRALIAN Floetrol makes more cells than US Floetrol I found that the Aussie Floetrol looked almost oily when I was swiping. Could that be the missing ingredient? If you can enlighten me on this I would appreciate it. Thanks Joyce
There is definitely some sort of additive that makes it better for swipes but it isn't a traditional oil we use. At some point I'd love to figure that out. Save us all in the states a bundle trying to get Aussie floetrol.
Many thanks for the info, it's so kind of you...newbie here. There's no GAC 800 in my country but there's GAC900. Have you ever used it? I wonder whether they're more or less the same or maybe very different. Thanks again...stay healthy n blessed.🙂⚘
They are for sure different. 900 is for painting on fabrics and fusing to fabrics.
@@LeftBrainedArtist oh ok, thanks.🙏🙂
Btw there's Tesla acrylic paint made in indonesia...but i can't compare it with any other brands yet. They do put pigment info on the label (PY14 for Azo lemon yellow) but i don't know what it means...it comes in pots, they hv fluo but no metallic.
I use glue, water, and a gloss medium/varnish. With just enough paint to get color, usually in a 3oz dixi cup ill put like a glob or 2 not even a 1:1 or 1:2 colors are fine, get nice outcomes but cells arent as abundant and large unless i use too much silicone but get the bumps from glue
I've done a few videos on paint ratios. It is so interesting to see how more or less paint to medium turns out.
hi dave well maybe i am not mixing the glue all rght but what i have found for me it seems to be really sticky and lots of air bubbles and seems to dry the paint fast . i need to get a scale to measure correctly ! so idk i am confused by the glue all . thanks for the video ! what do you use to varnish with ?
You can leave overnight in a sealed container and the bubbles will be gone. I usually varnish with Liquitex Gloss Varnish. I have found ito be the most user friendly.
Have you ever heard of or tested Acrilex pouring medium by Hietz Jordon & Co.? I bought some today and can't seem to find it online anywhere. Is that the same company that makes Golden?
I have never heard of that pouring medium. Just doing a cursory search I don't believe they are the same company.
@@LeftBrainedArtist When I google Hietz Jordon & co., their website has all golden products. I am in Canada but that shouldn't mean anything.
When you use poor medium do you still use floetrol?
Depends on what I am trying to achieve. Normally I don't use more than 1 pouring mediume (Floetrol or Glue) but sometimes I add a tiny bit of another medium to help change the effects. Eg a tiny bit of GAC800 to increase strength or a tiny bit of Liquitex to make it more of a glassy finish. I rarely do any kind of 50-50 of 2 mediums with the exception being the Sheleeart Blooms and swipes.
I'm Australian so I use mont marte clear PVC 60% water 20% and 10% flotrol (the Aussie sort). I ordered some mont marte gloss medium and their pouring medium which I'm going to play around with on Monday.
I use the clear pva because it has a slight gloss but also helps to bind the paint nicely and the flotrol to smooth the paint out and add just a few cells. It also says really flat which I like.
Yes, the glue in Australia is different than the US. I know Pouring Your Heart Out channel uses that glue exclusively and I love her paintings.
lol just found this one. Nice job
Thanks Dolce.
I plan to only archival, will this present problems?
Not at all. You just want to use the professional pouring mediums only and a great UV protecting varnish.
Have you ever tried Amsterdam pouring medium or Pebeo PM or Pebeo Bindex. Doing my own experiments, but, value your opinion. Oh & glyco monoproplyne , like they use in vape mixtures. Seems to be one of the main ingredients in floetrol ( plus liquid latex) Trying to find out the science behind the ingredients....ha! Ha! Let's see! Much appreciated!
I haven't t tried any of those but they are on my list now.
@@LeftBrainedArtist it seems that builders PVA & Mono propylene are main ingredients of floetrol. The scientist in me is curious. I love collaboration. Add a bit of bindex, hopefully a cheaper & more accessible to more people. I'm just too shy & have safety issues due to domestic violence. You're a gem! Thankyou!
How much of each of the three pouring mediums do you use?
I am New to pouring and I can’t get the consistency or effects that I’m looking
Use 1 pouring medium to start with Jessica. Then move in to adding more once you've gotten the results you want from that one. I recommend Floetrol or Glue-All if you are just starting out. You can't do blooms with those but most other techniques should be achievable.
Watched all of your UA-cam videos - great information and very helpful - thank you. Living in South Africa is a little more challenging - many of the products are not available and those that are, are simply way too expensive for a newbie to be practicing with. I use Khoki White Craft Glue mixed 80 : 20 distilled or filtered water as my pouring medium and a local acrylic paint made by Dala or Iris at 1 part paint : 2 parts P.M. I tried a pouring medium made by a local company (rather pricey) but it does not play nicely with paints mixed with the glue pouring medium. Once dried, the colours separate/look flakey and almost all my paintings have serious cracking issues. So back to the glue and water pouring medium. Back to basics.
The basics are generally where it is at. I try and add in other techniques and materials slowly and with purpose to limit my variables so troubleshooting is easy and straight forward.
I am also from South Africa. I use latex additive for tile adhesives and grout. It is thin but can be mixed with glue if you want thicker consistency. Is about R170 for 5 L. Without glue it also helps with cell development.
@@lisaaggenbag1474 thanks for the info Lisa. Great to connect with another South African - may I enquire which part of SA you call home?
@@patriciaposthumus8695 I am from Centurion Pretoria and you?
@@lisaaggenbag1474 Hi Lisa, I'm in Hillcrest KZN. How long have you been acrylic pouring? Joined a beginners class late September, basically brand new to creative art of any sort.
I'm pouring for fun and the chemistry involved is overwhelming
Focus on one thing you are trying to change based on a previous pour. Make that small change and pour again. Then do the same on the next one. You can't do it all at once so try to narrow down what you are going to work on.
I'm getting information overload as well.......
I typically mix elmers glue with water. I use school glue. About 50/50, I read about modpodge so I think I’ll add that in my next batch to see what happens. It would be great if you would address epoxy. I have used Stone Coat and that has a nice working time. I recently bought another brand at hobby lobby and I didn’t get my project finished when the epoxy got hot and started to set up in the mixing container. It was awful! I have been on the search for something less toxic smelling. Love the epoxy look and hate the smell! . I’m going to try some of your suggestions and see what happens. I use treadmill belt lubricant to get cells and it works well with my paints, I’m in the process of experimenting with different paint brands.
I probably won't do too much epoxy on this channel for a while. However, I have gotten some great epoxy like shine from multiple coats of Liquitex Gloss Varnish. 3 gives a great sheen but still shows a little of the larger surface imperfections. 5 or 6 coats and you get as close as I've seen to epoxy at a fraction of the cost. Not quite 100% smooth but a very nice finish otherwise.
@@LeftBrainedArtist I ordered some Liquitex and I’m looking forward to trying it out. I have used polyurethane and it gives a nice sheen. I hoping the Liquitex is somewhere in the middle. Thanks for the information!
Everything works with floetrol!
hahaha,
I love the Golden Gloss Pouring Medium & Liquitex PM - I recently bought Golden Matte Medium but I absolutely cannot get it to work on its own! I’ve never used a “matte” medium before - have you used this or any advise on how to make it work on its own? I have made it work mixing it with the Golden Gloss PM but that’s hard to get at the moment in the UK in the large container I’d like to have :(
Also my usual trick for when I’m adding water for thinner recipes is to add an acrylic binding medium such as Pebeo Bindex - it’s a thin consistency so it doesn’t affect too much! I’ve found it’s mixed well with any PM I’ve used so far and PVA glue.
Were you using matte medium or matte pouring medium? Those are two completely different things. On to give a thicker less shiny texture to paint and one to do the same but to make thinner. I made that mistake the first time I bought it.
A while ago I used the matt pouring medium along with regular pouring medium to see what effect I would get. It was more of a transparent wash look. ua-cam.com/video/YzkZI5ySur0/v-deo.html
@@LeftBrainedArtist it was the matte pouring medium, sorry correction! I’m having issues getting it to work straight, without adding any binder or other additive, even following Golden’s guide seems a bit off like the paints are so thick 🤔 I’m still experimenting! Unsure on what technique best suits a matte look
try 50% floetrol for cheaper extender w interesting cells, 50% liquitex pouring medium for more sheen and light water
ooh, that is a great combination. What paint brand do you prefer to use?
If you use a solid coat tof paint to cover the canvas, do you mix this with pouring mediums?
If you are letting it dry I either do just paint or add just a little bit of medium to make it easier to cover everything. If I am leaving it wet I make it the same way I do the other paints with the same consistency.
I hope to your next video sir is the measurement of your fluid paint , how many percent, what do you used to measure , is it drops or what . THANKYOUUU❤️❤️
I have a video about mixing paint in my playlist for new acrylic pour artists (picture of the blue and red paint on a scale). It varies with every paint and pouring mediums slightly but that is a great place to start.
Okay , Thankyou ❤️ Your videos sir is very helpful with all the beginners like me ❤️
Just bought a big batch of liquidtex pouring medium based on your analysis. What proportion should i begin to add in to my mix? I have been using a 50/50 glue all and flotrol.
Depends on how you are using it. By itself you start at 1:1 paint to medium and add more to get the right consistency. Ultimately you end up at 2:1 or more depending the quality of paint/pigment. If you are adding to your other medium to give sheen you only need about 25%.
Hello there my bloom pours were crazing so I bought some gac 800 but couldn’t find any instructions and the information on the bottle wasn’t clear for me to use it so I ended up putting far to much in paints which made it too smooth do you have any information on the amount I should use please😊
10% is plenty to add the strength that you are looking for. I would also thin your pillow paint slightly with water. Cracking usually happens because it is too think or too hot where they are drying.
@@LeftBrainedArtist thankyou so much for your advise I really appreciate it😊
Great info like always. Thank you. I use glue all, floetrol they are economical reçently purchased Vallejo medium(heard somebody else used it)
I haven't tried Vallejo yet either but I hear good things too.
Hello again David, I'm referring to your pages constantly! I've just purchased Golden Color Pouring Medium Gloss and don't want to use it exclusively as a medium...way too expensive in Canada! How can I use it as an additive to improve my Floetrol or Glue-All mixture?
I also just purchased Liquitex Gloss Gel Medium. I'm not sure how to use it as an additive either! Did I buy the right stuff?
A tablespoon or so per 3 ounces of paint is plenty to give some shine and some extra binding power to your paint. Gloss gel medium can be used with mica powder to make your own paint. A teaspoon or so of mica and the same gel medium, mix well, then use that just like you would normal paint with your pouring medium. You might use slightly less medium with micas to make sure they keep their shine.
@@LeftBrainedArtist geez, I didn't think I'd need that much...3 oz of paint isn't much. Would you save it for using with good quality paint or the lesser quality?
I don't use mica powder, at least not yet, so it looks like I bought the wrong stuff. Darn!
Can one use Elmers School Glue, how does it differ from the Elmers All....thanks for the explicit details it is really helpful.
School glue is less potent than Glue-All. This is so that it is easier to cleanup and not as permanent when used in the classroom setting. You can use it but you need a lot less water to thin it. In the US those glue's cost about the same so I always stick with the higher potency glue like Glue-All.
@@LeftBrainedArtist Thank you so much, I am living in the Middle east and we don't have access to the same materials and supplies. I looking for means and ways to work with what we have. Thank you for your support and community.
What’s the difference in liquitex pouring medium and liquitex gloss medium?
Pouring medium is specifically made for to thin your paint for pouring applications. Gloss medium is meant to add gloss to your acrylic paint and not necessarily thin it.