How To TEST A SPARK PLUG In 1 Minute
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2019
- Chainsaw, lawn mower or weedeater won't start or spark plug has no spark? Here is a fast easy method to diagnose if your spark plug is the problem. This video will show you how to quickly test your spark plug using a basic multimeter for all your small engine equipment.
With this simple and highly effective test you will be able to check for spark plug fire and rule out a bad spark plug. Could it be the spark plug wires, high tension lead, ignition module, coil or on/off switch? It's not always the spark plug at fault, let's rule it out.
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How To Diagnose and Read the Color of Your Spark Plug ➜ ua-cam.com/video/Tz4uxFMUCOA/v-deo.html
Check For Spark On A Mower, Chain Saw or Other Engines ➜ ua-cam.com/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/v-deo.html
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The resistor is there to suppress radio frequency noise which helps protect car radios, mobile phones and engine management systems. AND some ignition modules require a resistor plug to allow the coil timings to work properly.....
Old mechanic once told me to test a questionable spark plug you must first fill a 5 gallon bucket of water, then you must toss the spark plug in the 5 gallon bucket of water, finally observe the spark plug. He then said, "if it sinks then it's bad. Replace it." ;)
Your friend must of been a Navy man
I made spark plugs for 10 years, every brand you can name. Don't believe the bs that one plug brand is better than the other.
@@Weeble_Warbles your friend was crazy.
??? What??? Resistor for suppressing some noisy waveforms? You must be kidding! Chuck in a couple of ferrites will probably be of a better option if that is really your concern.
I'm giving you 5 Stars for your full explanations, detail, thoroughness & product placement. Keep up the good work....
Thanks, will do!
Completely agree
i'm giving him 5 stars for the coors light on the table.
Love your work. Dont ever quit. Your making this world a better place.
Wow, thank you
It's been a pleasure hanging out with you, Steve.
Thank You...
Thanks for this Steve. Keep them coming.
I'm now single after 30 years and never did anything like this, plus I lived in a major City. After moving to a rural location and needing chainsaws, log splitters, etc, your clear, concise videos are a big help in keeping them running and diagnosing when they aren't.
It's a 3 hour round trip to get a spark plug and You have to order them first.
Repairs are also stupidly expensive even for simple things and it's nice to know whether you are being told truthfully What's wrong, not just have parts replaced to bump the cost.
I've found a woman on her own can run into that sometimes.
You're Welcome...
MrsGraphiteGal
Another quick tip on a chainsaw or other motor, if it is not starting a quick check after trying the choke, and the regular starting instructions. Take out the spark plug to see if it is "bone dry", means there is NO fuel getting into the combustion chamber.Likewise if the electrode part is wet with gas, then you know it is gas fouled-won't run. At least you can know right away what is going on in there right quick if you are far from the shop or far from town etc. Good luck and Smart gal reading and watching this stuff. Also good practice to set your chain brake before trying to start- a sharp chain can cut you when it is not rotating, but not as badly as when it is moving fast.
Thanks Keith. I'm adding to my knowledge every day. Luckily my grandad was a master carpenter and my dad an engineer in the Royal Navy, I think I've inherited some of their creative abilities.
Don't worry, I am VERY careful with the chainsaw, never use it without at least trousers and gloves even when diagnosing it for a few minutes. Although, the guy who services it says not to use the brake when starting as newer chainsaws don't need it and it actually causes problems with the huskies. I still use it, if rather replace a part than my limbs !!
As always, an awesome video and GREAT ADVICE Steve! Whether the others know it or not, all your videos are actually teaching people HOW to troubleshoot and that there is a proper progression to follow... (ie: not just jumping into throwing out the existing plug without checking IF its causing the problem) I was taught that from my (electrician) father over 50 yrs ago, I continue to (try?) and teach that to my sons to this day, but they’re all part of the ‘instant gratification’ society and, like on their video games, want to hit a reset button. To them, the time to just put in a new part... is ‘quicker’. Ask my 30 yr old son that now after buying a new battery for his truck, replacing the starter, THEN calling dad when it still wouldn’t start... Added 20 litres of gas, turn the key, VaRooom! Problem solved!
I agree about the kids and their video games.....I try to teach my 14 year old how to stuff and he gets impatient so fast... they're used to push button instant results.
Thank You... and couldn't agree more....
My uncle taught us to keep checking oil level and coolant when the engine is cold. It will tell you when its empty by no longer running.
WyrGuy2 iii
Haha... I'm trying to teach my 16 year old kid the same thing. Dear Lord give me patience.... why do these kids think that when I'm lookin n thinkin n not speaking.... it's NOT a cue to head back into the house and I'm to "text you when I figure it out"! Jeez! Pulling stunts like that will summon Momzilla....and that crazy lady won't tolerate a lazy smart ass. Even if I have no bloody damn clue what I'm doing!
I'm out here on a wing and a prayer with UA-cam videos and a stubborn ass personality. I hate to pay someone to do something I can learn to do myself. I'm a hard head but I'm finally fixing more things than I'm breaking further....so that's nice.
Hey Steve, I had a beer with you watching your video!!! I learned something today! Only after 50yrs. being a car and ambulance mechanic! I'm learning more and more how to keep the small engines running on my lawn tractor, weed wacker, chain saw, etc. HOW DOES THE OLD SAYING GO, YOUR NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW!!!! THANKS STEVE!!!
Right on buddy!
I'm still using your videos when I'm lecturing. You're great! I'm teaching tomorrow and using you and Billy Ray. You really help my boys. You teach really well, at their level. They're between 17-60. You're between saving them and bringing on the next generation. If you're ever in the UK we would love to see you. Thank you so much. p.s, I'll buy the beverage!
Right on Jo...
Steve, you are the best. Even though I have many years of experience in both electronic and automobile services, I still learn a lot from you regarding the correct resistance for a small engine spark plug. I will watch your videos from now on, there is many things that I don’t have knowledge of, big thanks.
Glad to help
I'm in my fifties now, and I've owned multi-tester meters ever since I was a teenager --- you are absolutely right; even just a simple "no frills" unit is a total life-saver in sooooo many circumstances, such as when you're checking for the presence/level of voltage/current, testing for wire-breaks/shorts, etc.
I recommend better than “no frills” because my USA made fluke was able to find continuity issues in 3 resisters on a Deere mower OSHA safety board (ignition, seat switch, blade-PTO). Sent it to TV repairman who said the resisters were fine using his own Chinese(Communist PRC) multimeter. He was wrong, My fluke was right. Diesel motor had vibrated the wire ends of the resisters to form cracks.
@@hugoglenn9741 Yes, the cheapie ones do tend to break down after a fairly-short time. Even the costlier-model Micronta testers from Radio Shack didn't last --- they suffered worn-away rotary-switch contacts, just like the bargain-bin-grade meters often do.
In High School Auto Shop we had a spark plug tester. You screw the plug into a small air chamber with a window on it. You add current and you can see the plug begins to arc.....but as you add air pressure (compression) a bad plug begins to stutter and fail under compression. That was a learning moment for me.
You know, that’s an excellent point that I haven’t thought of in 40 years. Thanks a lot.
@@NMranchhand I'm 61 now.... I've messed with engines since I was about 13...when your dirt bike keeps fouling plugs (or other things)..... it's either fix it or push it....so you learn to work on things. But yes...this fact still makes me wonder how compression effects spark. ua-cam.com/video/pl24m9utZLo/v-deo.html
@@readmore3634a cleaned plug will fire a dirty plug will fail the spark takes the path of lest res. (dirty plug) carbon build u on the porclin post bottom of plug its easyer to flow thru the carbon on that post to ground that jump across a gap so it fails --clean the plug no fail
@@frankdavidson9675
Thanks for pointing out the obvious. Why is it less likely to fire under increased compression?
Everytime I have a question about a chainsaw or other small engine your videos explain it the best. Thanks for posting. Also your intro drive my Anatolian Shepherds crazy!
Thanks for the "R" explanation. Makes sense after hearing it from you.
You're Welcome...
Ha i thought the "r" stood for racing
@@alanlake5220 same lol
Waist of time just use a screwdriver
Measuring eléctrical characteristic of the spark plug, I totally endorse that, thanks for taking the time to make this demonstration
You're Welcome...
I ate hamburgers on Wednesday
Hey Steve
Even if I already know how, I'll watch your videos because they are interesting, illuminating, and entertaining. Thanks for taking the time.
You're Welcome...
Excellent simple and clear instruction. Thanks you far all of your content. You present in a very simple and uncomplicated fashion. You are an excellent trainer / instructor.
I appreciate that!
Steve, thanks for the spark plug video. I asked several people about a spark plug tester. They said there was not one. Saw your video, and brought a multimeter. Sure beats putting in a new spark plug when the old one is still good. Thanks for saving me money!!!
Glad to help
The old days it was a screw driver but you could just hold it and pull lol
Greetings from TEXAS. The resistor plug in the automotive industry is to help on Radio Frequency Interference for computers and of course the good time radio.
EVERYONE KNOWS THAT THE ''R '' IS FOR RADIO FREQUUENCE INTERFERENCE... if you do not know that then you are uneducated and need to go back to school...
When I was a VW mechanic back in the sixty, we has a spark plug tester. You cleaned the plug first, check gap, place in tester, some worked fine until you put 120 psi and no spark, a lot of plugs work fine until you put them under compression pressures and then no workie! My two cents worth.
Ive had that. Mower wouldn't start. Tested for spark with the spark plug on the engine casing. Sparked ok. Put back in and engine wouldn't start? Eventually tried another spark plug and the engine ran. It took me about an hour to figure it out plus a lot of swearing!
100%
Paul P how to does it work ???
This is so true. Your 2 cents are needed to buy new plugs lol
Yes! My father was an old time mechanic, and he had a spark plug tester. When I was a kid learning about cars, he demonstrated how a spark plug could spark fine at low pressure, but fail at high pressure. I couldn't believe it when I saw it. I couldn't believe why pressure would make any difference, but it did. It's something I never forgot.
One of the best small engine mechanics that I've watched, excellent work
Wow, thanks!
I just watched a guy test for spark at the spark plug of a mower that wouldn't run and had good spark, and from that moment on he tore into that mower to try getting it started but failed. As a last resort, he installed another spark plug and the mower cranked over and ran good. I did a similar thing testing for power at a washer machine with a neon test lamp, it illuminated and I starting tearing into that washer when I had a though, go out and buy a multi meter. I got home and the multi-meter and the 120V receptacle only showed 90 volts. I followed the wiring back to a junction box, removed the cover, and found a poor splice connection. I re tightened the splice connection, soldiered it, and got the 120V for the washer. You can't beat experience. I enjoy your channel, thanks for sharing.
Laid on the couch suffering from man flu and watching this Steve. Thanks buddy, feel better already!
Awesome...
I’m hooked , you explain things so well.
Thank You...
Thanks Steve. Working my way through the possible causes of my saw not firing properly. It's a real education!
Hello Steve. Greetings from Cheshire, England. First of all, I want to thank you for putting out these excellent videos and sharing your knowledge. They have helped me and my son to refurbish and get running well several old and knackered ebay chainsaws since Buckin' Billy Ray got us hooked on the subject (seems there's a bit of a BC influence going on here: maybe we should visit some time).
Now to business. Pulled our old neglected Honda GCV160 powered lawnmower out of its winter storage in the log store on Friday. Started no problem then died after about 30 seconds and would not run again until left for a good while. Did this a few times. Suspected fuel starvation. We obviously had a spark.
Spent the weekend doing all the following in accordance with your videos with no change to the problem, as well as cleaning the spark plug several times along the way (carbon fouling). I tried: purging and adding fresh fuel (turns out my younger son who loves mowing had filled it with 2-stroke mix while I wasn't watching), running without fuel cap, running without air filter, cleaned air filter anyway, dismantled and cleaned carb (didn't look too bad but it's sparkly now (a one bottle of Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhônes Villages job), checked remote choke operation (not auto choke) , checked fuel supply to carb (no problem: shut the fuel tap immediately it cut out and drained the carb bowl a couple of times: it was full (and no water)), reset the valve clearances (inlet was spot on but exhaust was at 15 thou. (nearly a full bottle of Marqués de Montino Rioja job)). No change.
Finally the new spark plug (Bosch WR8DC - equivalent to NGK BPR5ES as specified in the Honda engine manual) arrived. This was a desperate last chance to save the mower from the tip as we obviously had a spark. I put it in and she now runs perfectly. £5 plug saves £400 on a new mower. The old plug (NGKBPR6ES) tested out okay with my multimeter according to this video: no short circuit between centre electrode and ground and 4 kOhm on the centre electrode. So it seems the plug was failing but only when it got warm. Have you ever seen this sort of failure before?
Thanks again for all your help over the last couple of years.
Best regards and keep on rockin' in the free world,
Dave.
Eliminating any potential cause is good. Knowing why a particular part failed is far better.
I dig your videos, man. Thank you for taking the time to share knowledge.
I appreciate that!
When I do my pre-season "Get-er-ready" routine, I pull the plug, wire brush it, lightly file it, and re-gap it. I have a 27 year old Honda 8hp Snowblower with the original plug. Do you thing I've gotten my moneys worth out of it yet. I have other 20+ year old engines that I've done the same. Good spark plug toss and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
I thought I was the only person that did that. I'll always try and clean it first before buying a new one unless I'm doing a complete tuneup
I sand blast mine
QGreat show . For 50 years I had no idea how to properly and easily test a spark plug. Thanks guy and my next bee is in your honor
Glad it helped
I appreciate your explanation on checking spark plugs. I’ve probably thrown a lot of good plugs away not knowing the proper way to check them. Hopefully this will save me some time and money! Thanks again!
You're Welcome...
A very useful video, Steve. Thank you. I have often wondered how you could test the plug before replacing it. In the UK they range in price from £5-8.
Right on ...
Steve, great video as always. I am sure glad I watched your video's before I started working on small engines. It just makes the work go smooooooth ! Thanks so much and keep em coming.
Glad to help
Thanks for sharing Steve. Ultrasonic cleaning of in service plugs prior to testing is the method I use when servicing power equiptment. USC cleaning is also great for O2 sensors. Best to you and yours.
Thank you Steve some of us need all the help we can get when it comes to small engines
You're Welcome...
Yes definitely so! I’m a class 8 truck mechanic and working on small engines is like walking on Mars,, the videos are great!
Yup, this was super useful information from the saloon. Thanks, Steve. Cheers!
You're Welcome...
Good detail for the beginners. Thanks for this. A Lot of folks don't give ignition the respect it deserves. As a Master in the 70's spent a lot of hours keeping customers Eight-cylinder engines running strong on all eight. The good thing about a one -banger is, you always know when a cylinder is weak - because its the only one! -Sandy
Thank you. This just made my day
😅😅😅
Great video.
Valuable info for sure.
When I was a kid,before we had cable tv we had an outdoor antenna.whenever a snowmobile went past the house that didn’t have resistor spark plugs in it the picture on the tv would get fuzzy until the snowmobile got a ways down the road.
Please keep the videos coming
Thanks for sharing
Good info Steve. I think I had one like the last the other day. Tested it for continuity and spark, which was all good, but installed in the head, it would try to kick off and die. I think the compression was separating the inner electrode. Switched out the plug, and the engine ran like a champ. Was weird for me, first time Ive ever encountered that. Keep up the good work.
You scored a bullseye in my books Steve on the spark plug toss , you managed to miss all the beer bottles on the shelf behind you, sweet. Thanks for all your research you do for all your videos. 🍻👍
LOL. Right on Buddy...
That was risky behavior, come to think of it.
Great demo ! I'm testing my spark plug now
Awesome. Outstanding training with no BS.
Thank You...
I had a lawn mower given to me last summer and that was the only thing wrong with it. It was a Honda with an NGK. Those plugs are prone to foul out if the carburetor was been flooding. I used to buy a case of them every winter for my snowmobiles. I always carried extras in my pockets for my buddys. They NEVER had spares on long runs. On older snowmobiles, it was normal to have carb issues. Good video. I wish more guys would just go out and buy a spare plug for all their small engines. Especially chain saws.
RC Hobbyist Extreme same here how’s quarantine
Your videos are great Steve. Thanks for sharing you experience and knowledge. I wanted to share something that I think is relevant to this video. Just because a plug passes the test you outlined in this video does not mean the spark plug is in "good working order". I just replaced a BPR6ES in a mower with a GCV160. The mower would start relatively easy but after about 30 seconds it would die out. I was thinking carburetor\fuel issue but quickly ruled that out. Compression was 90+ psi with decompresor so wasn't too worried about that. The mower had good spark and the plug passed your test, 4850 ohms, and no continuity on the threads\body. The plug had pretty heavy carbon deposits that I cleaned away prior to the test. I replaced the plug anyways and my issue was cured 100%. So the question becomes...were the carbon deposits to blame? If I cleaned the existing plug and reinstalled it would it likely work just fine?
Steve your channel is the greatest, you are very informative with no Bull!!!
I appreciate that!
Great way to check spark pugs and throw away the bad ones thank you
Excellent video on testing spark plugs. Also, if the base of the ceramic part of the plug is burnt(brown around the part where ceramic meets metal), that usually indicates carbon leakage (bad plug).
Thank you Steve I always learn something new when I watch your show have a great new year and I hope it's better than 2020 regards from Australia🎅🎄👍🇭🇲🇭🇲🇭🇲
Same to you!
Great video. I have no bad plugs but it’s beer-thirty and the mountains are blue!! Here I come...
I never fail to learn something from every one of your videos. Great stuff!
I appreciate that!
I agree Steve, Coors Light is excellent if you like a light beer, which I do,keep up the great help videos. I'm learning so much from your knowledge here in North Carolina 👍🏻👍🏻👣👣
Rock on!
The thumbnail is amazing Steve!😂
Thank You...
....very worthwhile video. I'd waited till it was dark to test for sparks on the plugs for several old machines or even old new cheap machines I never touched in years. I had a few suspicions, you've pointed out defiinet things to check through. The clincher is some spark plugs have a resistance and 5k is actually a lot . I couldn't understand why all of a sudden one machine no longer showed a healthy spark . I'd been interchanging plugs on the machines . Fancy that , the Dickens you say , never knew plugs could have resistance .
Thanks for the advice.
Great explanation. Wow, this can save you a headache. Thanks.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
I keep a neon sign transformer handy at my shop. 7,500 volts and low amps. With wires to a spark plug it simulates the ignition system voltage and a fouled out plug will sputter and smoke till the fuel burns off. Good for testing and if the ceramic isn't soaked with fuel the transformer will quickly clean up the plug to be able to use it.
Yes Steve great advice. Was north of Inuvik and my chainsaw failed. No spare plug. Found out it was the coil shorting and used some grease from an axle bearing to run down the crack. Got the road opened and back to civilization!
Nice work!
Thanks for clearing out the different between R(esistant) plug and the other.
Another excellent video, Steve. Definitely worth a Coors Light! Cheers, Les
Many thanks!
The other good reason to know how to do this is faulty new plugs. That has happened to me in the past. Sent me off on a wild goose chase. Keep on keeping on. Happy New Years
Thank You...
thank you Stevie! I just spent 2 days trying to get it t o fire. It was the plug!
here in southern Oregon we have Deschutes beer. Good stuff
I had an issue with my mower yesterday, I watched several videos but I couldnt solve it. Watching Steve solved lot of my issues also got to learn how to fix my mower. Thank You Sir!
Great to hear!
Thanks Steve, that was such a well explained step by step explanation 👏
Glad you liked it
Another great vid bud :) Always helpful info!
Thank You...
The correct gap is important . I just had a Briggs & Stratton 7 H.P. that would not run . The gap was .025 . I set it to the correct gap of .030 . It started on the first pull . Thanks for the information .
Hi Steve, you are my new Oprah. thanks for tips.
Welcome!
Good video I learn something new on every video you post thanks keep up the good work.
Thank You...
Well done, enjoyed every one minute.
Good checks and ideas.
I saw a guy being neighborly and helping his neighbors with their mower doing prelim tests.
He couldn't see the arc of the plug clearly from pulling with it facing away and could see spark.
He continued and found lots of marginal issues.
He fixed each one or improved it spending time and materials on each aspect of good ability to run, basically refurbishing their whole machine.
When he was through, he was a-pullin and a- cursin.
His spark would rather arc to the outer circle (to ground) than jump the gap from center electrode to side electrode.
He did closer spark testing and got a good look.
Then he did what you said. Grabbed a plug from another and fired it right up
Cost him a Saturday and a Sunday instead of a plug.
Plus a plug , after.
No charge.
Nice guys finish last sometimes, but all his refurbishing, debatably, Did his neighbors machine some good. And the you tube audience was entertained if you saw what some of us saw right off.
Fantastic, as always. Thank you. Just a small note from an electronics guy: if the dielectric material (ceramic in this case) has a crack, the item which can leak between electrodes is current, not voltage. Love your channel.
Thank You...
Not entirely true. If there is a crack and it is not contaminated, the meter won't find it, but the high voltage coming through the spark plug wire will break down the air in the crack and act like a short. Kind of like a static discharge.
@@EngineerHank, then, there’s the compressed fuel/air mixture within the cylinder to which the energy has to overcome to cause ionization of that mixture. But, you already know this.
I get free or cheap gas engine machines and i fix them and resell them if they are still good. I hear this all the time. I changed the plug and it still wouldn't run so I bought a new one. Actually it is almost always a dirty carb but I rarely have to trouble shoot a spark plug. i did not know how to test them though so thanks for the great video. now I can make sure the plugs are working properly in machines I sell.
Right on Buddy...
Steve, you are right. I am not in this line of business and I don't have a good spare plug sitting around. I need your method to get a yeah or nah of my current plug. Thanks much.
Glad to help
Mate you made my day!
I was testing the riding lawn mowers plugs because its engine was not having the right attitude. It was running, but once you clutch in the mower it did not have the torque it used to have. So I checked the plugs and, R-type, it was showing 4,7K on the one, 12,9 on the other plug. Voila! Problem solved. Thanks to your easy instructions on how to properly test spark plugs.Things can be so easy if you know what you're doing!
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Nice job Steve. I recommend checking the plug when brand new as I have had brand new ones that are bad
Bring your multimeter when buying new ones. Had one read 8,000k right out of the box and tested the other one which was 500.
Buy ngk never had a bad one in 40 years champion on the other hand dont and wont use them rubbish
I was watching this in my local pub and laughing everyone you chucked a plug, people were looking at me like I was mad. Great vid.
Right on
Great tip I have heard of but you just gave a wonderful refresher course. Thanks...
You're Welcome...
Great diagnostic procedure!
Thanks!
Great Info and info.. Try Founders All Day IPA (Beer) You Sir, and Dony Boy are my 2 favorites for Small Engine know-How!
Thank You...
Happy New Year Steve , nice video .! :-) Cheers!
Thank You...
Great video--as always!! Thanks for all the good advice on small engines!!
Thank You... and You're Welcome...
Continuity check on my outboard motor spark plugs told me what I needed. Thanks!
Great video Steve as always! My understanding is that resistor plugs are to eliminate interference with electronics? If so, why do small engine manufacturers list both resistor and regular plugs for their engines? I don't see a whole lot ( if any) electronics on most small engines. Thanks
Many small engines have a CDI ignition system (Capacitor-Discharge Ignition) which is sensitive to electrical noise.
You can use a resistor plug in any type of ignition, but you can only use a non-resistor plug in a solid state ignition system. Resistor plugs are far more common than non-resistor plugs, and I’m sure many small engine manufacturers list a resistor plug for the sake of commonality. Non-resistor plugs are unnecessary and obsolete.
Hell!!!! Of a bad ass background man.
Thank You...
Very instructive walk around spark problems, thanks Steve! I'd like to widen your multimeter's application in the matter, and discovered INTERESTING symptom = the central electrode gains resistance during its work-hours! When you try resistance of new plug it's ZERO and audio-signal buzz loudly. After several w.hours you can't hear any buzz, but the meter shows abt. 1700mV drop on central el., yet no ohm res. It'd be interesting how a drop of conductance of centr.el. describes plug quality. My tests have been made on three plugs of various makes&wears. Namely: Champion/new ; Bosch/10hrs wear; Autolite/50hrs wear. The last one gives the poorest spark and is rather an exhibit now.
Steve, you rock. Thanks for shareing your knowledge. It sure helps. Thanks again.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Great vid Steve technically you should use a megger (which is a ohm meter that uses high voltage) to test the ceramic insulator because sometimes the insulation in this case (the hairline crack in the ceramic) will not leak at low voltages (your volt ohm meter likely has 9V battery) the coil of your small engine produces thousands of volts so the plug could leak at the higher voltage produced by the coil but test fine at the lower voltage of an ohm meter of course no one watching this video can afford a megger except an HVAC tech.
I think it would be overkill. It's a very expensive tool if you only use it for checking leakage on a a sparkplug.
That's what the last sentence of my comment says
@@phillipcoiner4232 Then it's said two times. Just so we can get all with us, if they have any doubts.
Hahaha love the throwing of the plug when you said its rubbish. Well done brother u made my evening
Awesome....
CV ! No 5/
Another great video Steve! Very informative, thanks for posting. There’s nothing more Canadian than drinking beer and doing stuff in the garage.
You got that right!
Excellent explanation for everything
Glad you think so!
What I have found works is taking a old push button grill igniter, splicing with an old plug wire and hitting the igniter. So far it's been working for me, on small engines at least
Brilliant idea, I've got one from an old gas boiler. Thanks for that 👍
thank you steve! Great video. yes i am one of the guys that might need this video, its a 45 min drive just to get to town, IF anything is still open!
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Great video, great visual ! Thanks, Steve!
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Very good and sound advice in all your videos
Thank you
Good to know; thanks Steve. Funny though. I have worked on many dozens of old & newer small engines since 2011 & never had to buy a new plug. I think replacing the plug annually or running out to buy a new one as soon as an engine becomes hard to start (usually fuel related) is a waste. Champion & NGK must love it though!
I agree....
Running out to buy a new plug maybe justified only in situation when you first received a small engine, and it would not start, you narrow down the reason to the freaking thing just won't produce sparks, and it's cunt of thing to take the whole thing apart just to be able to check all possible points of failure in the wiring etc. Provided everything else is equal, you really want to bet on maybe that ugly, no brand, not even straight sob of a chinesium of the chinesium spark plug may be the cause. If it doesn't look right, it usually isn't right. But you never know, you could run into the ugliest shitty looking sparkplug that defy beliefs to be a working one.
Helpful info, but for all non-resistive type of plugs, you will find that your multimeter will not be able to detect a crack in the porcelain insulator inside the body of the spark plug. The spark will jump across that point and also possibly the spark plug as well gap due to the high voltage of the ignition system (depends on where the crack is) but the spark may be very "weak" at the spark plug gap. Your multimeter on the other hand works on very small voltage for continuity and testing resistance so it will not be able to detect the crack in the insulator and as such the multimeter will read open or infinite resistance even though your spark plug insulator may be cracked. There is a case where carbon may build up inside the gap and short out the center conductor to the outside case. In this instance you will see a high resistance reading but it will not be infinite on your multimeter. For resistor type of plugs, these scenarios are also true, however you need to consider the 4.7 K ohm resistor in your measurements. Hope this helps.
If you have a crack in plug you will see it ark once the light is dim no need for mutimeter waist of time
Dale, you are 100% correct. I was going to point that out but did an F3 first and there you are. Thank you.
Merry Christmas 🎅
Very true. One of the best channel. From Belize, C.A
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I'll just add that carbon (deposits) on the spark plug are conductive, they are resistive in nature, but they still conduct. Your ohm measurement number will increase the more carbon is on the discharge tip. Using a brass brush to clean the tip before testing would be helpful.
Never knew about the "R" thing and I worked at various auto parts stores for about 2 years
I herd that the R in the auto industry means that it resist engine noise on your radio. But I ain't no expert. that's just what I herd.
Great info saved myself 8 bucks
Thanks Steve! Very informative.
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I am an elec tech and can say Mastercraft meters are a great value.
They are robust. I worked on ladders a lot.
Every now and then my Mastercraft would fall.
No problem at all.
I'm a tech too my Mastercraft let me down a couple times.. Might be robust but every once in a while I get incorrect readings... Changed the probes, didn't help, I don't trust it now.. I used to bring it places I didn't want to bring my Fluke but not anymore...