So this test is the test basically for all coils mine is on a 12.5 Kohler very informative & many thanks perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday ! Will proceed with mounted coil of course saves work leaving installed if good coil ! 👍
Thanks from Texas! I bought a cheap Amazon coil and it only lasted about a year. I bought another cheap Amazon coil because they are about 1/4 the price of an OEM coil, and since they only take about 20 minutes to switch out, I'll take my chances again. Its great to be able to test these coils and KNOW if they work or not! For those who don't own a set of gap spacers, a regular business card works just as well to set the gap from the engine.
This saved me ..I had a very intermittent starting issue this season on my 21 year old Toro CCR2450 snow thrower where 80% of the time it would start and run great. When I tried to troubleshoot it twice of course it ran great and the spark looked ok. Then I tested the magneto (Briggs) and it had 1k ohms resistance ... not 2.5k. I replaced the magneto and all is well again. Thank you so much!
I must have missed this video at first. Ah, we lost the internet for a day or so because of a lightning strike that took out out wifi modem, phone system and tv. Anyway I found this electrifying video this afternoon. Great way to test these coils. I never knew that. Thanks for the great information. Thanks for sharing the video with us. Stay safe.
I call Foul! lol Why? Well....you're MY Sub! But....I digress....at least you pick good blokes to watch, so I'll give you a pass my good friend lol. Cheers!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Not sure why the call of foul so that messes with my little mind. I now shall have to sit on the floor and cross my legs and think OOOHHHMMM,
Went to a screw fix to pick up a multi meter not so much as a purse on that coil Mick enjoyed the live stream was helpful in so many ways and thanks for the question shout sir Mick
I hadn't changed the spark plug ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN in my Toro 20" Recycler in the 6 years I've had it but have been good with all other maintenance. This season I noticed it sputtering a little bit every so often and just didn't feel like it was running as smoothly or as powerful as it used to. Switched out the spark plug for a new one yesterday and could immediately tell an improved difference. So I may have to make this a little more regular than every 6 years, especially for a $5 part!
Very good channel with great video. I have tested coils like this for years. Sometimes a coil will test good and then not work when it gets hot from the engine heat. If you have a coil that has a heat up problem you can take a bit of tractor trailer repair tape and wrap it around the coil body. This acts as a heat barrier and heat sink. The tape is aluminum on one side and black sticky tar on the other. Just cut a small piece and place it on the outer plastic body of the coil. This will keep the coil ast a constant temp. I believe the coil wires inside have thin or cracked insulation coating. The wire looks like it is bare but actualy has a coil of polymer. This polymer will crack and get hard over time. Then the coil voltage is affected. On hot days my tiller will stop running. The coil tests great when on the bench. After about 10 minutes of running it stops with no spark. The coil is directly over top the piston head and cooling fins. The heat rises and the coil starts to short internaly. I put the trailer repair tape on the bottom and wrapped it around to the top. The metal part of the coil does not get tape. I installed the coil and it has been working now for 5 seasons. Hope this fix can help someone with a similar problem.. Cheers!
Great video Mick. A multimeter is a very useful tool. Use mine all the time. In fact used this morning to prove to my brother in law it was because the battery was flat that my sister’s vehicle wouldn’t start. He swore blind he had a battery charger on it an he had charged it up. Anyway after an hour of charging she started up no problem. Saved them calling a mechanic for a 1 minute test with a cheap multimeter!
My magneto checked out fine. It's were the 2 contacts that go up against the center wheel were gumed up and not making a contact. Business card with, perfect. Thank you for how to test.
Thanks Mick !! That was easy ! I have been trying to learn about small engines through your channel and a few others and until now haven't seen one on testing coils. Much appreciated
Very helpful video, my coil was showing 11 so I knew my problems were not with coil, after some cleaning out if the carburettor, I got my mower working. Thanks for the help.
Thank you for explaining this Mick. Have ordered one right now, takes the guesswork out of it and replacing coils just in case. If you are on a tight budget might save someone that bit of money.
Great and informative, especially if you do not have a workshop manual to show you the ohms specs and limits.Good that you showed the different types of coils too.Cheers.
well done. I suggest before throwing out that Honda coil, check the plug end on the plug wire - the end screws onto the wire and sometimes if that's done multiple times, the wire becomes buggered, breaking the contact. The wire also screws into the coil itself - check that end as well. The briggs coils all have the wire manufactured right into the coil itself, but the end can be check on some this way as well.
Great test Mick, done it on the old coil from the "OLD" mower this morning and reading was 11.8 on all 3 surfaces, so will send that new coil back. New mower doing great mate & getting used to the "Self Drive" now. Keep up the great work & say hello to Riley Boy 👍👍
Resistance readings from a coil/CDI unit, will indicate if there is an open circuit, but not whether the insulation or semiconductors are breaking down when running.
Clearest, simplest vido I've seen! Wish I'd seen it a long time ago. New magneto/coil has come with TWO wires; black, and black with white stripe. I suppose the b/w goes ...Well, I suppose nothing, I just ask what do I do?? Anyone?
Mick, your video solved a problem. My mower showed a small spark at each lanyard pull, but would not start. Early in the video, you reveal a coil can spark, but too weakly to start the engine. QED-- now to find a reasonably-priced ignition coil. * PS-- Your Midlands accent is a killer.
What should the reading be between the kill switch terminal and the iron core of the coil? I haves a Briggs engine on a mower which won't spark but its showing 5k ohms between HT and core, 5k ohms between kill switch terminal and core (which would point to it being a good coil) but 0.7 ohms between core and kill switch terminal?
Rover mini rider ride on is spluttering and stops when motor gets hot but runs fine before hand I thought it might have been a plug so I replaced it but problem still there. The carburettor has a solenoid i pulled it out and checked it's staying in when powered up. Any suggestions? Can the coil break down when hot.
Remember 20K Marker ! Thats a note for me , I am german and you speak a little to fast for me. But your video is really helpfull , thank you so much. 🤗
hello and thank you very much for the video. My AL-KO_470br petrol lawn mower with Briggs&Stratton-625 engine no longer starts. I changed the carburettor and the spark plug but it didn't work. Now I have ordered a new ignition coil and tested the old ignition coil according to your video clip. I set 20k ohms on the multimeter and got values of 10.5 on the magnets. Is this value OK? Then the ignition coil would not be defective, but the distance to the drive shaft was very small and dirty. Best thanks and greetings. Thanks from East-Germany.
You can have good resistance readings on a coil and it can still be bad. This test does not test the condition of the semiconductors within the ignition module. A spark test at pull cord rpm's would be a more accurate test.
@@patagualianmostly7437 Not quite my friend. if there is corrosion between the coil body and the engine then you will get no spark and my friend you will have spent out on a coil for nothing. how many coils have you replaced on you're change the plug principal? maybe you were throwing good coils out when you didn't need to? A £10-00 millimetre may have saved you money. Great tutorial as usual Sir Micks
Yes, but I think the coils shown were not electronic. I agree, if electronic then you can have a good testing coil on the bench. But I may have an intermittent fault. This can happen after a short run when a component in the electronics intermittently fails .
Maybe I'm wrong, but is the iron core not a single piece ? With the primary and secondary coils wound around the centre part ? Then it stands to reason that with one lead plugged into the spark plug connector and the other lead alternating between the left and right metal pick up above the magneto ... would result in exactly the same readings. You're taking two readings from the same metal core.
Just gave you thumbs up #300 Mate! I've missed a few of your videos, and for that I apologize! I am a bit busy and there are a lot of us small engine guys out there that I try to keep up with. It was great chatting on the LS yesterday. Hope all is well! Cheers Mate! Zip~
Good video Bloke. However, the older Briggs & Stratton coil has three coils inside, plus a couple of transistors that control the direction of the currrent flow in the primary. I.e, there's the high voltage winding that you're checking, but there's also the primary winding plus a trigger winding on that little metal post on the bottom of the coil. No way to check either the primary or the trigger winding, or the transistors, as far as I know. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers!
I checked the continuity on the coil and all is good but the mower still won't start? Cleaned the spark plug the carb is pumping fuel and it still won't start, so what else could it be? Thank you
Hi mick..i have a non starting sovereign im getting no spark and coils giving a 4.46 reading across all points,so iv starting looking at the kill switch. How can i test it ,its not got a "normal" switch its more like a metal plate with an insulator under it and the wire from the coil looks like it goes under it..how can i test it with a multimeter ? The mowers a sovereign xss40a grateful for any help
Mate .. take the wire off the coil end.. and test for spark.. if it sparks then it the switch or the switch is not closing.. sometimes bending the arm on the switch to it makes contact helps it
@@themowerman what I mean it's I fix the problem from spark thing,but now, I think gas doesn't goes thru the engine,what can I do about it,I'm sorry to bother you. Mil gracias
Mick, I have a faulty Victa twin mower, twin spark coil, and no new ones are available. How can I now adapt a two pole type twin spark coil to the magneto and still get the timing right, and is that a possibility anyway. The Victa coil has 3 poles to it with the middle pole going thru the centre of the coil. (W type, not a U type) Is that possible? Or maybe you know where some 3 pole coils are still made or can be bought? I
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man hi Mick..I was just looking at a video by Taryl Fixes. I need to get that exact ignition coil..any idea where I would get that..thanks for all your help..
Elo Mick can you answer this one or suggest something!or is it a scrap job ! 196cc loncin lawnmower engine no spark has a new coil & spark plug flywheel key & magnets are good kill switch on & off no spark so it cannot be a short ! if the timing was out there would be still some intermittent spark ! i had this once before on a Briggs & Stratton engine or is there something under the flywheel preventing a spark ? much appreciated
I thought my coil was bad and bought a new one. Both coils test good per the video. Tried 3 spark plugs, re-gapped the coil several times and not getting a spark. Deadman wire tested good, but it is not connected. Any suggestions?
@@themowerman Thanks for the reply. It was actually disconnected to remove it as a problem. I did figure it out. I cleaned the mounting areas between the engine cylinder and the coil and this improved the grounding of the coil. Now I have a strong spark. Aluminum does get a corrosion film on it and so does the steel.
Mick, here is a new development in my mower ignition coil problem. Originally, the mower had hit a half-buried tree root, mangled its blade and sheared its crankshaft key. Both blade and flywheel key have been replaced, after great effort. and with care to proper alignment of the key channel and flywheel. 1. For a brief period, my ignition coil had produced a small spark, and I heard a single, soft detonation when I pulled the starting lanyard a few times, but the mower could not start or sustain any rpm on its own fuel. 2. When starting fluid was injected into the carburetor, the motor ran briefly, which indicates there was still a spark. But on its own fuel, the motor produced no detonation. Now-- with even starting fluid-- there is no sound of detonation when the lanyard is pulled. 3. This afternoon, I checked the ignition coil with the standard external test-wire-to-ground (earth), and there is no spark. Although I have used my VOM set to Ohms (20k), and still get a consistent and satisfactory reading of 4.63 on both ends of the ignition coil, and on the deadman's switch (reading taken when switch was disconnected), there is no spark and no detonation on lanyard pull. Although I had planned to purchase another coil, I held out hope the 4.63 reading meant the original coil was still OK, since the value was between 2.50 and 5-6.0. Is this clear proof that even a good reading on a physically-intact coil can be misleading?
Hi mate. Sorry for not replying but I’m not getting any notifications of some comments for some reason. Sounds like a good coil. Double check the Ht boot and ht clip. If need be take it off and re attach it. If not then it sounds like a new coil is needed
Thanks you have explained exactly the same problem as what I have been having with an ignition coil on a disc cutter . The readings come back fine , I’ve checked the the ht lead for continuity fine .I’ve noticed most people on you tube are just reposting videos of others with there own take , subsequently I’ve put a coil on from a working disc cutter and it now works as it should . These methods don’t seem to be the rule as I have had the same problem as you . Thanks for posting 👍
@@themowerman Mick, here is a status update on the suspected ignition coil issue. I replaced the original coil with a new one, and now, Ohm readings are even higher, and with a clear, strong spark.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
So this test is the test basically for all coils mine is on a 12.5 Kohler very informative & many thanks perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday ! Will proceed with mounted coil of course saves work leaving installed if good coil ! 👍
Thanks from Texas! I bought a cheap Amazon coil and it only lasted about a year. I bought another cheap Amazon coil because they are about 1/4 the price of an OEM coil, and since they only take about 20 minutes to switch out, I'll take my chances again. Its great to be able to test these coils and KNOW if they work or not! For those who don't own a set of gap spacers, a regular business card works just as well to set the gap from the engine.
Great comment ta for watching
Excellent demonstration! Thank you for being so specific. I'm glad that you used defective coils to compare them to the good coils.
Thank you. Brought back an old machine back to productive life.
Your welcome
This saved me ..I had a very intermittent starting issue this season on my 21 year old Toro CCR2450 snow thrower where 80% of the time it would start and run great. When I tried to troubleshoot it twice of course it ran great and the spark looked ok. Then I tested the magneto (Briggs) and it had 1k ohms resistance ... not 2.5k. I replaced the magneto and all is well again. Thank you so much!
You are very welcome my friend.. that's what the video is for..
Thanks for the straight forward no BS explanation. Now I'm off to fix my pressure washer. Cheers ! from Canada's Westcoast
Your welcome..
Once all said a very insightful video, thank you
Only coil testing video that I could understand. Thank you Mick.
Ta mate
Thanks from St. Louis, Missouri... SUPER HELPFUL
Your welcome
Amazing instructor, you simplify the test of a coil. Thank You and God Bless.
You are welcome
Excellent video. I am not the brightest bulb, but this video was really easy to understand. Thank you Mick.
No worries
I must have missed this video at first. Ah, we lost the internet for a day or so because of a lightning strike that took out out wifi modem, phone system and tv. Anyway I found this electrifying video this afternoon. Great way to test these coils. I never knew that. Thanks for the great information. Thanks for sharing the video with us. Stay safe.
I call Foul! lol Why? Well....you're MY Sub! But....I digress....at least you pick good blokes to watch, so I'll give you a pass my good friend lol. Cheers!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Not sure why the call of foul so that messes with my little mind. I now shall have to sit on the floor and cross my legs and think OOOHHHMMM,
Went to a screw fix to pick up a multi meter not so much as a purse on that coil Mick enjoyed the live stream was helpful in so many ways and thanks for the question shout sir Mick
I hadn't changed the spark plug ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN in my Toro 20" Recycler in the 6 years I've had it but have been good with all other maintenance. This season I noticed it sputtering a little bit every so often and just didn't feel like it was running as smoothly or as powerful as it used to. Switched out the spark plug for a new one yesterday and could immediately tell an improved difference. So I may have to make this a little more regular than every 6 years, especially for a $5 part!
Thank you my friend, your video was very helpful.
@@greenidguy9292 you are welcome
Very good channel with great video. I have tested coils like this for years. Sometimes a coil will test good and then not work when it gets hot from the engine heat. If you have a coil that has a heat up problem you can take a bit of tractor trailer repair tape and wrap it around the coil body. This acts as a heat barrier and heat sink.
The tape is aluminum on one side and black sticky tar on the other. Just cut a small piece and place it on the outer plastic body of the coil. This will keep the coil ast a constant temp.
I believe the coil wires inside have thin or cracked insulation coating. The wire looks like it is bare but actualy has a coil of polymer. This polymer will crack and get hard over time. Then the coil voltage is affected.
On hot days my tiller will stop running. The coil tests great when on the bench. After about 10 minutes of running it stops with no spark. The coil is directly over top the piston head and cooling fins. The heat rises and the coil starts to short internaly. I put the trailer repair tape on the bottom and wrapped it around to the top. The metal part of the coil does not get tape. I installed the coil and it has been working now for 5 seasons.
Hope this fix can help someone with a similar problem.. Cheers!
Ta for the information mate I appreciate it
Very straight forward video. Thanks for making it pretty simple and I learned a lot. Cheers...
Great video Mick. A multimeter is a very useful tool. Use mine all the time. In fact used this morning to prove to my brother in law it was because the battery was flat that my sister’s vehicle wouldn’t start. He swore blind he had a battery charger on it an he had charged it up. Anyway after an hour of charging she started up no problem. Saved them calling a mechanic for a 1 minute test with a cheap multimeter!
Yeah that's it.. a quick way to test..
My magneto checked out fine. It's were the 2 contacts that go up against the center wheel were gumed up and not making a contact. Business card with, perfect. Thank you for how to test.
Your welcome mate.. glad you got yours sorted
Thank you mick that was a very easily learned well taught lesson ! That was definitely down and dirty!
Thanks Mick !! That was easy ! I have been trying to learn about small engines through your channel and a few others and until now haven't seen one on testing coils. Much appreciated
Oh your welcome mate hope it helps. If you need any videos doing let me know. I'm looking into doing Mick's top tips
Thank you mick, that was a clear ,easy to understand, demonstration !
Best vid out there on the subject... Thank you very much...
Your welcome
Rt on brother thank you I had no clue on how to do it. So I checked my coil out and it’s all good. It must be my spark plug.
Very helpful video, my coil was showing 11 so I knew my problems were not with coil, after some cleaning out if the carburettor, I got my mower working. Thanks for the help.
Fantastic
Thank you for explaining this Mick. Have ordered one right now, takes the guesswork out of it and replacing coils just in case. If you are on a tight budget might save someone that bit of money.
Hi mate.. yes exactly.. it's an easy task and saves so much time.. thanks for watching
Great and informative, especially if you do not have a workshop manual to show you the ohms specs and limits.Good that you showed
the different types of coils too.Cheers.
Your welcome
Thanks for very good effective and simple test.
Enjoyed watching this again to remind me . .
Excellent video!
Thanks, you saved me a lot of time plus mechanics in this area prefer bikes to small engines.
No worries
Excelent explained , Many Thanks for your time !
Your welcome
well done. I suggest before throwing out that Honda coil, check the plug end on the plug wire - the end screws onto the wire and sometimes if that's done multiple times, the wire becomes buggered, breaking the contact. The wire also screws into the coil itself - check that end as well. The briggs coils all have the wire manufactured right into the coil itself, but the end can be check on some this way as well.
Yeah I did check it.. it's no good ta for watching
Easy Peesy nice and simple explanation thanks
No worries
first class keep it simple many thanks
Great test wish I done that yesterday had the carb out in bits petrol all over me lol ordered coil well done
No worries
Thank you. Very useful. Straight forward.
Your welcome
Good video. Very helpful when diagnosing a no start mower.
Thanks ed your stickers have just showed up
Excelent video this just helped me diagnose a briggs and stratton coil 😏👌
Fantastic.. glad it helped
Great test Mick, done it on the old coil from the "OLD" mower this morning and reading was 11.8 on all 3 surfaces, so will send that new coil back. New mower doing great mate & getting used to the "Self Drive" now. Keep up the great work & say hello to Riley Boy 👍👍
Fantastic news mate
Thanks Man........from Nebraska USA (Found my coil wire is broken in the boot) Also a new coil was bad from the factory.
Glad I was able to help ya out
Thanks my grandpa needed this
Your welcome
Spot on very well done Mick!!!
Thank You for your easy to understand info!
You are welcome
Great demo . Very well explained
Ta mate
Very helpful! Thank you Sir!
Resistance readings from a coil/CDI unit, will indicate if there is an open circuit, but not whether the insulation or semiconductors are breaking down when running.
Thank you from Kansas.
I finally understand. Thanks Mick
@@SCROWMD no worries
Thanks Mick, Great video explaining a how to for coils
Your welcome mate
I am coming back (watching videos again } Nice meter.
Thanks me old friend. Was good talking last night
Clearest, simplest vido I've seen! Wish I'd seen it a long time ago.
New magneto/coil has come with TWO wires; black, and black with white stripe. I suppose the b/w goes ...Well, I suppose nothing, I just ask what do I do?? Anyone?
A nice informative video Mick.
Thanks mate just a quick and easy video..
Good information Mick, thanks.
Thanks Very much for watching
Mick, your video solved a problem. My mower showed a small spark at each lanyard pull, but would not start. Early in the video, you reveal a coil can spark, but too weakly to start the engine. QED-- now to find a reasonably-priced ignition coil.
* PS-- Your Midlands accent is a killer.
Lol Midlands.. I'm south coast lol
@@themowerman Sorry-- only a few hundred miles off. Portsmouth?.
I learned something new.
Awesome video thank you for showing how to check them coils
No problems mate
Thanks for sharing that Mick you are a star have got exactly the same multi meter as you have got there 👍👍👍👍
Your welcome Alan mate hope it helps
Thanks Mick very good teacher thanks oh, keep up the good work
Thanks mate I appreciate your feedback
Thanks allot for sharing this with us appreciations 👍🙏🇩🇰
Your welcome
What should the reading be between the kill switch terminal and the iron core of the coil? I haves a Briggs engine on a mower which won't spark but its showing 5k ohms between HT and core, 5k ohms between kill switch terminal and core (which would point to it being a good coil) but 0.7 ohms between core and kill switch terminal?
Same. I wish you would have got an answer. Lol
Sounds like a bad coil or bad connection
Great example and great explanation brother thank you so much .👍👍👍👍
No worries
Very good video Mick! Very useful info and well explained
Great tip on checking the coil 👍🏻
Ta for watching mate
Great show brother 👏 👍
Ta mate
22r Mick's mowers
Brill class mick iv got to get a tester i like that one you make it look easy cheers...
Well I try to make it easy for other to get the job done.. thanks for watching
@@themowerman plessure i like that tester to looks ok to use
Hi Mick. Thanks for the link to see how to test a coil. My meter is different. What is the setting I'm looking for please?
Great video! Very helpful!! Thank you!!!
Your welcome mate
Awesome audio. Had no problem hearing you Mick.
Fantastic thanks mate
Rover mini rider ride on is spluttering and stops when motor gets hot but runs fine before hand
I thought it might have been a plug so I replaced it but problem still there.
The carburettor has a solenoid i pulled it out and checked it's staying in when powered up.
Any suggestions? Can the coil break down when hot.
Yeah mate they can ..
Thanks Mick, very helpful 👍🏻
Your welcome.. hope it helps
Remember 20K Marker ! Thats a note for me , I am german and you speak a little to fast for me.
But your video is really helpfull , thank you so much. 🤗
No worries
hello and thank you very much for the video.
My AL-KO_470br petrol lawn mower with Briggs&Stratton-625 engine no longer starts.
I changed the carburettor and the spark plug but it didn't work. Now I have ordered a new ignition coil and tested the old ignition coil according to your video clip. I set 20k ohms on the multimeter and got values of 10.5 on the magnets.
Is this value OK? Then the ignition coil would not be defective, but the distance to the drive shaft was very small and dirty. Best thanks and greetings. Thanks from East-Germany.
@@jomente clean the coil and flywheel... And the two posts the coil sits on with sand paper and try again...
@@themowerman Thank you for the advice.
Can I also put the ignition coil in an ultrasonic bath?
@@jomente I wouldn't
Now that's a helpful vid, superb cheers mick
Welcome mate
Great video mick.
Ta mate
On the Viking 4rtp mate getting. 10.4 on all three that showing really high or is that a really good coil ?? Cheers
Very helpful thanks
You can have good resistance readings on a coil and it can still be bad. This test does not test the condition of the semiconductors within the ignition module. A spark test at pull cord rpm's would be a more accurate test.
Exactly.... If it don't spark...Change the plug.... if it still don't spark. it's bad. End of story. (But we all love to know WHY!? Don't we?)
@@patagualianmostly7437 Not quite my friend. if there is corrosion between the coil body and the engine then you will get no spark and my friend you will have spent out on a coil for nothing. how many coils have you replaced on you're change the plug principal? maybe you were throwing good coils out when you didn't need to? A £10-00 millimetre may have saved you money. Great tutorial as usual Sir Micks
Yes, but I think the coils shown were not electronic. I agree, if electronic then you can have a good testing coil on the bench. But I may have an intermittent fault. This can happen after a short run when a component in the electronics intermittently fails .
@@swarfs They are electronic. They have a Darlington pair transister within to increase the pulse to higher level.
Will I see a spark only if the plug is connected to an earth ? Or will I still see it if I just hold the lead with the spark plug connected in my hand
Simple to point video ty
Maybe I'm wrong, but is the iron core not a single piece ? With the primary and secondary coils wound around the centre part ? Then it stands to reason that with one lead plugged into the spark plug connector and the other lead alternating between the left and right metal pick up above the magneto ... would result in exactly the same readings. You're taking two readings from the same metal core.
great vid helped me big time🙂
Your welcome
Just gave you thumbs up #300 Mate! I've missed a few of your videos, and for that I apologize! I am a bit busy and there are a lot of us small engine guys out there that I try to keep up with. It was great chatting on the LS yesterday. Hope all is well! Cheers Mate! Zip~
Good video Bloke. However, the older Briggs & Stratton coil has three coils inside, plus a couple of transistors that control the direction of the currrent flow in the primary. I.e, there's the high voltage winding that you're checking, but there's also the primary winding plus a trigger winding on that little metal post on the bottom of the coil. No way to check either the primary or the trigger winding, or the transistors, as far as I know. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers!
I checked the continuity on the coil and all is good but the mower still won't start? Cleaned the spark plug the carb is pumping fuel and it still won't start, so what else could it be?
Thank you
Man I’m working on a briggs flathead welder right now buddy thanks for the knowledge this really helps I’m losing spark so thanks a million
Hi mick..i have a non starting sovereign im getting no spark and coils giving a 4.46 reading across all points,so iv starting looking at the kill switch. How can i test it ,its not got a "normal" switch its more like a metal plate with an insulator under it and the wire from the coil looks like it goes under it..how can i test it with a multimeter ? The mowers a sovereign xss40a grateful for any help
Mate .. take the wire off the coil end.. and test for spark.. if it sparks then it the switch or the switch is not closing.. sometimes bending the arm on the switch to it makes contact helps it
@@themowerman thanks mick il try that tomorow weather permittig
@@stevelewis5710 cool
Seems like you need to check the primary and the secondary idk. Good video.
Mil gracias compa ur video amazing thanks a lot,saludos desde Michoacán Mex gracias
Your welcome my friend
I did same thing on mine lawnmower,but guess what I think doesn't pass gas true the motor,what can I do about it
@@luisegallegos8120 what do you mean
@@themowerman what I mean it's I fix the problem from spark thing,but now, I think gas doesn't goes thru the engine,what can I do about it,I'm sorry to bother you. Mil gracias
@@luisegallegos8120 clean the carburetor..
How's she goin'? Great way to do a quick test on coils Mick. Thanks for sharing. Handy to be able to do this!!! Take care!!
Your welcome my friend.. have you got that saw cutting straight yet lol
@@themowerman Working on it buddy!!!
Good information mate .
Thanks Peter pan..
Good looking forward for it thanks
Ta very much
Mick,
I have a faulty Victa twin mower, twin spark coil, and no new ones are available. How can I now adapt a two pole type twin spark coil to the magneto and still get the timing right, and is that a possibility anyway. The Victa coil has 3 poles to it with the middle pole going thru the centre of the coil. (W type, not a U type) Is that possible? Or maybe you know where some 3 pole coils are still made or can be bought? I
Hmmm I don't know mate sorry
I may have heard wrong but did you put the red lead into the com port?
Hi mick..I have a punch 75g 14 and I'm getting no spark..3.3ohms on the coil. Amy idea what else it could be or is the coil bunched
Has it got a set of points?
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man whats that 😄. Am.i able to send you a picture of what I have
@@joeeager4717 yeah email me micksmowers01@gmail.com
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man hi Mick..I was just looking at a video by Taryl Fixes. I need to get that exact ignition coil..any idea where I would get that..thanks for all your help..
@@joeeager4717 I think I sent him that coil?
So if the resistance is over 10 ohms like 14 or 15, is it still good?
@@darinmorgante7200 no.. to High
Fine and dandy for simple Ohms readings but if you are doing DC volts or diode testing you put the leads on backwards....
Thanks! great video.
Your welcome brother
Elo Mick can you answer this one or suggest something!or is it a scrap job ! 196cc loncin lawnmower engine no spark has a new coil & spark plug flywheel key & magnets are good kill switch on & off no spark so it cannot be a short ! if the timing was out there would be still some intermittent spark ! i had this once before on a Briggs & Stratton engine or is there something under the flywheel preventing a spark ? much appreciated
Does it have a set of points under the flywheel.. how old is it ?
@@themowerman no points or condenser has a ignition module thanks for taking the time to reply !
@@dennispratt3344 take the wire off the coil and try to start it .. if it's a no start then it's the coil or plug..
@@themowerman its a new coil & plug good readings with ohms old & new
I thought my coil was bad and bought a new one. Both coils test good per the video. Tried 3 spark plugs, re-gapped the coil several times and not getting a spark. Deadman wire tested good, but it is not connected.
Any suggestions?
What about the wire from the dead mans switch to the coil.. it may be damaged
@@themowerman Thanks for the reply. It was actually disconnected to remove it as a problem. I did figure it out. I cleaned the mounting areas between the engine cylinder and the coil and this improved the grounding of the coil. Now I have a strong spark. Aluminum does get a corrosion film on it and so does the steel.
@@edhyde1741 good job
hello if it is extremely hard to start a chain saw using starting fluid , what would be the most likely cause?
Timing, piston rings, leak by, carb, coil, could be lots of things
Mick, here is a new development in my mower ignition coil problem. Originally, the mower had hit a half-buried tree root, mangled its blade and sheared its crankshaft key. Both blade and flywheel key have been replaced, after great effort. and with care to proper alignment of the key channel and flywheel.
1. For a brief period, my ignition coil had produced a small spark, and I heard a single, soft detonation when I pulled the starting lanyard a few times, but the mower could not start or sustain any rpm on its own fuel.
2. When starting fluid was injected into the carburetor, the motor ran briefly, which indicates there was still a spark. But on its own fuel, the motor produced no detonation. Now-- with even starting fluid-- there is no sound of detonation when the lanyard is pulled.
3. This afternoon, I checked the ignition coil with the standard external test-wire-to-ground (earth), and there is no spark. Although I have used my VOM set to Ohms (20k), and still get a consistent and satisfactory reading of 4.63 on both ends of the ignition coil, and on the deadman's switch (reading taken when switch was disconnected), there is no spark and no detonation on lanyard pull.
Although I had planned to purchase another coil, I held out hope the 4.63 reading meant the original coil was still OK, since the value was between 2.50 and 5-6.0. Is this clear proof that even a good reading on a physically-intact coil can be misleading?
Hi mate. Sorry for not replying but I’m not getting any notifications of some comments for some reason. Sounds like a good coil. Double check the Ht boot and ht clip. If need be take it off and re attach it. If not then it sounds like a new coil is needed
Thanks you have explained exactly the same problem as what I have been having with an ignition coil on a disc cutter . The readings come back fine , I’ve checked the the ht lead for continuity fine .I’ve noticed most people on you tube are just reposting videos of others with there own take , subsequently I’ve put a coil on from a working disc cutter and it now works as it should . These methods don’t seem to be the rule as I have had the same problem as you . Thanks for posting 👍
@@bobjit252 your welcome
@@themowerman Mick, here is a status update on the suspected ignition coil issue. I replaced the original coil with a new one, and now, Ohm readings are even higher, and with a clear, strong spark.
@@bobgreene2892 what was the reading?