Universal CV Boot Repair Kit | CV Gaiter Split | How to Repair
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2019
- How to install split CV boot, no dismantling, easy DIY Save $$s. A CV boot repair by using a universal split CV boot kit (aka CV gaiter). This type of CV joint gaiter replacement is extremely cost effective and an easy to accomplish DIY proposition.
I show how it’s done on my Son’s Polo, but the kit and method are exactly the same for any car.
If you have a split CV boot, water and dirt are allowed in and grease out. It’s also an MoT failure.
Split CV boot installation is an alternative to dismantling the hub and joint, saving labour.
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Cyd recommends:
BAILCAST universal CV gaiter kit:
UK amzn.to/2VY88lt
US amzn.to/2QtunP6
Gaiter clip setting tool
UK amzn.to/2WdwL2O
US amzn.to/2WsRK0R
WW s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bdJ1OFmC
Spare gaiter/boot clips
UK amzn.to/2YRC98D
US amzn.to/2KeddUv
WW s.click.aliexpress.com/e/pbzx4z6
CV (lith-moly) grease
UK amzn.to/2EHfJz6
US amzn.to/2wtQkVk - Авто та транспорт
I love youtube, n people on it who take the time to make people's life easier...
Thank you. 👍👍
Lad's, put a little kitchen stretch & seal over the shaft before putting the boot anywhere near the car, this keeps the boot groves immaculate clean until fully glued..👍
Great idea, thanks for sharing
Thank you so much, I took my car for oil change yesterday and the garage owner showed me that my cv booth is torn and she talked about changing my axle and it's going to cost me $400, thank God I turned her down and came home and found your video. Much appreciated your video sir.
Glad it helped. You might have trouble sourcing one of these in the US though. Good luck, let us know how you get on.
Very impressive and interesting.
Tks for sharing.
I would suggest to clean up the old grease first , then glue the new boot , then fill up with new grease .
That would avoid contamination of the 2 lips while applying the glue
Just bought a van that needs a cv boot replacement, and whilst I budgeted for it to be done by a garage, I'm now going to save that money. Anything I can do myself is a bonus.
Indeed. That money is better in your pocket
Hey pal how did you get on with doing your van?
I just installed one of these for the first time on a rear axle shaft of my Honda Element. Your demonstration was most helpful. The axle shaft is small in diameter, and I couldn't get the small metal clamp to go around in a circle. Tried cutting it shorter and pre-forming it, but once I got it locked and crimped, I noticed that it distorted the end of the boot, causing a gap where dirt or water could enter. A worm-drive hose clamp was too wide, so I went with a zip tie. Seems to fit perfectly. Trimming the length of, and pre-forming the larger clamp worked fine.
I cleaned everything first, but waited to pack grease into the joint until after the boot was glued up. I figured that would keep excess grease from accidentally getting onto the mating surfaces. It seems that the key to this job is to keep everything clean. Interesting tips from the Bailcast instruction sheet:
• Run a bead of glue along the completed joint ensuring any minute holes have been filled.
• Don’t work with your hands around driveshaft in case you become glued together.
(The second one sounds like a comedy bit...)
Cheers from the US!
I've shared your video with my friends. You doing some muscle flex exercises really convinced me the glue is strong enough. I did my job in about 1 hour, but because I used tile snips, I cut the clamp. Took me two days to find another clamp. Otherwise, it was an easy job. I HIGHLY recommend buying the right tool - axle boot pliers - for this job. See the link in the video description. The money you save is well worth the price of the tool.
Awesome! Thank you!
When using universal boots, remove both clamps but leave the lip of the old rubber on the joint end. It can have a special groove and the new boot should go over the old rubber lip which will make it more secure.
You sir saved my alot of pain! Could I get the bloody thing to stay on broke 2 clips in the end I used the top of the old boot with a grove like you said under the new boot and applied a 9mm zip tie. snug as a bug.
This is absolutely critical. Ask me how I know.
How.
Thanks for this video I have a few to change and wasn’t sure if I wanted the glued cv boots until now. So much easier than taking the car completely apart to get to them!
Hi Sereno, Not clear what you mean - leave a slice of rubber of the old boot on the vehicle at the axle end and then put the new split boot over the top? The new split boot seems pretty tight - may be impossible to do this. Please explain - thanks!
Thank you for sharing your gifts and talents of making a video that gets to the point immediately. And use only the amount of words needed to teach and entertain. And you saved me a boatload of cash from the main stealers.
My garage quoted me £100 to do this. I just had one of them thoughts to go onto UA-cam to see if I could do it myself. Your video was the first one I watched. I watched some other ones but definitely this is the best by far. I’ve already ordered one of them kits and will be getting that sorted thanks to your video. Brilliant information and you’ve just got yourself a new subscriber 👍🏽😀
You can do it! If the old boot is split and letting grease out, try wrapping it with cling film or a bin bag and wrap it tightly with duct tape. that should keep the grease in and water/dirt out while you wait for the kit to arrive.
@@CycloneCyd ... well I finally managed to get round to fixing that CV boot. Got the one that you mentioned. All looking good at the moment and will check it out after a few miles to see how things are. Just wanna say thank you so much for the video and all the best 😀😀👍🏽👍🏽
USD 280 is the best price to replace the entire shaft (they wont do boots only)
Without doubt the best video on UA-cam showing this repair.
Praise indeed. Thank you
Ive used split boots many times, usually the dorman brand which are in 2 halves instead of this one which has a single split... the dorman ones are very stiff and its usually Not the rubber which ever tears as they age... Rather ,its the seams that can let go and if that happens its always becuz there was a bit of grease or dirt in the seam that prevented the joint from having full strength... From what ive seen, once that glue does its magic, and its Not regular super glue, its a special type that literally starts to partiall melt and fuse the rubber halves into a one piece bond....if you do the bond with absolutely clean surfaces, its permanent and uber strong...The hardest part is getting every prepped, hospital clean and Not having a spec of grease get into ur halves b4 they are merged together...unedr a car, with all the grease and crap thats there, its so easy to have a seam touch a bit of grease,u put it together and a few months later its started to let go in that spot...people who give these bad reviews are those who did not keep the seam sterile...its a Real pain in the neck to do, nerve wreaking and tedious but it beats pulling the axle and if u do it right these will last 5yrs or more...the rubber tself is better than factory as long as you get a good clean bond at the seams...
To summarise: *cleanliness is key* , absolutely correct. Thanks for the input, especially on the life expectancy.
For the Dorman 2 part boots the best way is to glue the first seam with it off the car, then take a couple shop towels and fold them over the seam edges that are left so they are completely covered before you slip it over the shaft. This way when you are putting it on the edge is protected from dirt or grease from the shaft. Then you can remove the shop towels and glue it. Makes the job a lot easier.
@@andycanfixit cracking tip 🙏
Initially I wanted to laugh at this video. Now, it’s well done, and the fellow doing the work seems like a jolly chap, that’s not the issue. The “laugh” would be cutting apart a cv boot instead of just removing the axle and putting an unmolested boot on. You know, the way it’s been done forever.. I can see you’d save some time and maybe potential effort with this method. The question is…..will it last as long as if you’d just replaced the boot as a whole? Well, now you’ve got me wanting to try it. Well done.
Good visual quality and I could hear every word.
Thanks, I do try hard to make sure the quality is good
Excellent video, will try this on my daughter`s Fabia as she has a perished boot and wasn`t looking forward to stripping the hub down and removing the shaft. I was very impressed with the strength of the glue, when you showed your little test. Thanks for a clear and informative video.
Thanks a lot for a great job you did, I paid over $300 for a CV-Axle replacement , this technique you did is amazing and helpful for many others. Thanks and God bless
I'm glad I watched your video and hope you are still doing well- this video is now four years old!
I do prefer old school dismantling, it´s the right time for checking up and cleaning, put fresh grease in etc. BUT this is a very good alternative for DIY people, and best of all, it works just fine.
Great job. Very well explained and filmed. The key is to have the joint extremely clean when glueing up. Perhaps wrapping the shaft with cling film would help too. I was impressed with the bit you cut off and glued - that showed how strong the joint is - top marks! Thanks for a great video.
scrupulous cleanliness along the joint faces is a must.
Cling film? Never thought of that - top tip, thanks
Aluminum foil may work also.
I am just using your technique and it’s going great am I ok to fill boot with freeze because it looks dry thanks
I like that tip!! i have used duct tape over the axle surface in past
Great video, beutiful camera ,great personality, nothing but great info. No wasting time but relaxed. GREAT audio also. The only thing i missed was the removal of the old steel straps but when i saw you put the new straps on i knew how to take them apart. THANKYOU.
I knew there had to be another way without changing the entire axle proven real simple thank you Thiago rodrigues
Yep, dead easy. They are even more robust than some of the cheaper gaiters that need the axle dismantling. Even if you regard this as a temporary repair to get you through an MoT, it's a real easy DIY proposition. Thanks for interacting.
this must be done very carefully or it will fail
I have a split CV boot and until I watch you very well explained vid did not know I could do it myself . Thank you for this save me a few pound on having to put the car in for repair.
Great video Cyclone Cyd!
Very well explained. The boot sizing when buying and cutting down it important to know.
Good video, I've tried this a few times and made a mess of it, mostly when adding extra greese to the boot, this video is well worth watching if I only watched this before carrying out the repair. Thanks for showing us this video colin from Surrey England 👍 👏 ❤ ❤
Great video mate, very nice camera work. Seems like a simple job but you offer some excellent tips that saved me a ton of frustration
Great video advice. A garage told me today in Round Rock Texas that the labor along would be $400 USD not including the part
Thanks for the info never knew about CV boot Replacement
Love these things. Beats the hell out of removing the axel.
Not 'alf!
That CV Boot is a great product, and you did a great work for me to follow!!
Thank you very very much, now I feel I can trust this product. I see a lot of potential in this channel
this guy is my fav voice actor.
''wensleydale gromit''
😂😂😂 🍻🍻
A really helpful guide to a successful job. Just found myself in this predicament today following Mot failure on this point alone , how frustrating ! I have a bail cast splitty so will crack on with it 😎☀️👍
Glad it helped. Cleanliness along the glued edges is the key. Looking like a nice day for fixing cars today too 🌞🌞
A very good video. I did this repair years ago with a boot kit that use screws to hold the boot together. I like the glue idea more. Thanks
I haven't done this yet but great detailed video and I'm sure it'll all work as intended once I do my vehicle.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to film and share these instructions.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the demonstration as my CV joint cover has ripped. Looking for some advice if replacing it myself 😊
Nice one mate!!! Never tried the glue together boots before. Only the complete ones! Definitely going to give this a whirl!.
yet another video that's easy to follow and helpful. Thanks
Really well demonstrated, many thanks, you covered all the grey areas for me. Top job.
Great to hear! What car were you doing it on? What was I able to help you with specifically?
@@CycloneCyd It's a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe, driver's side inner. I like your idea to use the off cut to practice gluing, also to glue a little piece at a time. I've ordered the boot and hope to maybe tackle the job this week. Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes.
SO HELPFUL! Just what I was looking for. You're much appreciated sir🤗 Thank you
You're very welcome!
Muito legal valeu
Great tutorial my brother. Been looking for exactly this.
Thank you for the demonstration. Well done and easy yo follow.
Very clearly explained. I was going to take my car to a garage to have this done but after watching this video I'm going to give it a go myself.
How’d it go, Did it work?
Yo, Cyclone... a 'top' repair presentation. You have inspired me to get mine replaced immediately. Thank you once again. Lloyd, Qld, Australia.
Happy to help, Lloyd. What car are you working on?
@@CycloneCyd a 2002 Citroen Xsara ...... I guess the 'boots' have to let go sooner or later!
@@lloyd-qt1mg True enough, lol
What a great video, everything explained with loads of tips, well done‼️
Thanks for your positive feedback.
Once again an amazing video. Well produced and edited! Cheers from Brazil!
Hi Thiago, thank you. Is there anything in particular you liked or found useful?
One of the things I love about doing this channel is 'speaking' to people from all over the world! Thanks for interacting.
{N} I love getting messages from all over the world. Thanks for watching and interacting.
@@CycloneCyd Hey, another Brazilian here but this time, from London :)
Amazing video and exactly what I was looking for. I have been on about changing my CV boot as it's torn for some time now but as a DIY job I was not very confident about removing the wheel, discs etc in order to do this. Great solution this universal kit!
Do you think I would need to clean up the grease in the joint (and add fresh grease)as it's been some time it's torn and it may have picked up some dirt? Or should I just add more grease ?
Your help would be much appreciated!
@@jeffersonf8143 yeah, clean it out as best you can. Old lolly sticks and wooden kebab sticks are good for this purpose. Get as much out as you can mechanically, then use brake cleaner in bursts - this is good because it's a big can and you can spray it at any angle, a huge help amzn.to/2zRwhoH. Pack with moly grease afterwards, this is about the right amount and the tube has a nozzle to help get it right in there amzn.to/3d6eNTO. put plenty of newspaper or a bowl under to catch the crap. Also very useful in this situation: amzn.to/2SrTAvv
Aloha from Hawaii. Thanks for the video, I purchased a set for my 1997 Camry.
Very Elvis, lol. Do let us know how you get on, won't you.
Thank you for a great video! Very well explained to the point I’m going to give this a go on my daughters car. Thanks again! 😃👍
Thanks for you comments Simon.
Mate this is brilliant, you've convinced me to do this on my own and not overpay a mechanic, great video mate, cheers
You should! And you're right, 80-90% of the cost of the job at a garage is labour. You could fit 10 of these before you've spent the same money and if each one only lasted 2 years, that's still 20 years. Very very few people own a car for 20 years! Remember, cleanliness (of the join) is the key. 👍
You are a true life saver and an honest man of God. Thank you for sharing
I appreciate that
I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place if you’re replacing that one. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped in my car (2007 A4) and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside.
700 notes! Holy moly. Nice work and thanks for sharing the tip
Hi 🙂, is it still work.? I mean is the glue line still holding under pressure? as you know it is the weakest point at the cv margins where the glue was applied, what type of glue is the best?
Thanks
Do you remember what brand boot kit you bought?
I must be dense but can’t understand leaving the lip on? Do you mean cut all the old boot away except the very end facing the engine with the old zip tie or clamp over it ? Take the zip tie off then put the lip of the new boot over the old one to give it a better seal ?😅
Never try this kind of boot, perhaps next time. and it is not always necessary to change the joint, it may be enough to put new grease in it if the joint is not too worn. Great video
Its hard enough to get the tire off, so the installation of the boot was made easier with your help. No worries about it. 🙉🙈🙊
Cleanliness is the key to a long lasting repair. 👍
Thank you very much! I wasn't sure how the clips worked but now I know!
Ha ha, yeah, they're a bit of a puzzle till you know, then it's obvious 🎓
@@CycloneCyd I have been an engineer for over 40 years and I learnt something new today lol. I have used these before but just tightened them up with pipe plyers, never knew about nipping up the end bit. thanks
@@billb7876 I love being an Engineer. One of the beautiful things about it is that there is always something new to learn. I try to learn something new every day, it helps with the PTSD. Rock on!
Cheers from the US. You make this look very simple. Very detailed and clear directions. I'm in the process of doing this repair now. I replaced my whole CV axel a couple years and that was an insane job, wanted to avoid that this time. Thanks!
Did you order from UK or do U have source in 🇺🇸?
Thanks mate, just what I needed and not overly long
Glad it helped Steven.
Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.
Welcome Vin. If only U2 could replicate your success 😂😂 👍
Thank you so much for this! Very well filmed too
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the compliment too. I try hard to make my videos 'accessible' and with decent videography and sound. I might remake some of my earlier videos now I'm more practised.
Brilliant video and lovely touch with the Princess Diana £10 note
Ha ha, you spotted that eh? Well, yes, she was and is much loved and it's a good laff! It also provides some visual stimulus for the viewership in what could otherwise be a visually uninspiring video for many. Thanks for commenting and welcome aboard.
Thanks once again for an exceptionally well detailed tutorial. :)
Hi blacktone83, thank you. Is there anything in particular you liked or found useful?
{N} Thanks. Appreciated.
Thank you buddy, just got a couple,one for the job,and one spare Incase
I screw it up lol, great little video
Great vid and tips...gotta say tho that background music sounds like a 1970's car chase music!!!
I am from india, it's Great to see your video. I have same problem I got solution in yr video. Thanks a lot bro God bless you.
You are welcome
This video made me very happy, thank you
great video buddy, listening to your voice you sound like Rodney Bewes AKA Bob Ferris out of the likely lads comedy sitcom from the 70`s at the end Terry turns up and its off to the pub, thanks for vid, vinny :-)
Glad you enjoyed
Great video Cyd, have done this myself over 30 years ago so the method is well proven if you take the care that you demonstrated. Also did this last year but have noticed the gaiter has perished and split. Just to warn others that whilst the job is successful it will not last long.
i think the proper way to do that is welding. i imagine it will not be very hard for someone to invent a welding method for it.
This is exactly what I need to do to my car right now but I guarantee you it will take me many hours LOL possibly even days.
Update: I successfully replaced the boot but it split right on the joint after about a month. I'm about to do it again. Not sure what I can do better or different to make it last longer this time though.
This is a way better way to fix this issue. Believe it or not, many shops in the U.S. will tell you they don't "replace" the boots, they will ONLY do the whole C.V. Joint, which will cost you about 500 dollars.
So ya, you can spend 500 dollars to fix a 20 dollar boot, not having your car for 4-6 hours, needing a ride to and from the repair shop, or you can learn our to use a jack, lift your car and do this stuff yourself.
Wow, I mean WOW❗ Don't you have laws against rip offs like this? Here in the UK, we have laws about doing unnecessary and expensive work to rip of clients.
@@CycloneCyd Sure, we have laws and government agencies that work like government agencies. Which means good pay and good pensions with lots of days off and little is done. One problem is most people don't even know they are being ripped off.
For instance, my sister is in her 70's, her engine warning light came on and she took it to a well known shop that has many hundreds of locations in the U.S. They say she needs over 1,300 dollars in repairs.
That included an entirely new air cleaner box, which was missing one clip and MAP sensor and some "routine items" like cabin air filter, oil change and wipers. So, she calls me, I have a look. I see NOTHING wrong with the air cleaner box except it's missing ONE clip, which means it does not close, which means unfiltered air goes into the intake, (and across the MAP sensor). I don't even think they looked IN the airbox, because I found Pistachio nuts in there, stored by some critter of course and they should have seen that AND CLEANED it.
This shop SHOULD have known that she had her oil changed 1,000 miles earlier and did not need another change, since they did it. I did find the air intake hose had a crack, something they missed and would have caused her more repairs since the engine light would not turn off with this crack. So here is what I did, clean the nuts, new air filter, new cabin filter, NO NEW MAP filter, just cleaned that, and new air hose (aftermarket, 20 dollars). Total price? 65 dollars. They would have charged her 1300 dollars and THEN said "oh, you need a new air intake hose" and charged her another 200.
If she did not call me, she would never know the only real problem was one clip to close the air cleaner box was missing (likely their fault since they don't usually break and they don't fall off, and my sister certainly was not the last one to touch it, the shop was), causing unfiltered air to enter the intake, causing the MAP sensor to get dirty.
Heck, they charge 96 dollars to install a MAP sensor, which is a 2 minute job.
Personally, I think people are getting ripped off all the time from shops and just never know it.
Thanks for this video cyd , I've fitted on of these many years ago and I'm about to fit one on my BMW X5 and just needed a refresher course 😊 excellent tutorial !👌thank you 👍
Glad I could help
How’s it holding on your x5? About to do mine.
@@projman2155 just fine 👍
@@iankirk2266 did you have to leave and use the old end lips or the kit was enough?
@@projman2155 no the old clips got bent when I removed them , but the kit came with new ones , the trickiest bit is cutting the universal boot to size but also keeping the join free find grease , if you clean up the excess grease first and have a practice fit before adding the glue then you will be better prepared because once the glue is on the join it sticks almost instantly ! After a couple of practice fits I added the grease only on the opposite side to the join because once the car is moving it will move around the whole boot , good luck !
Really good lighting! Thanks
Thanks for watching! Yes, good lighting is essential for working on cars and also for filming.
Great video, many thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it. What car did you have to do it on?
Best video on this job I've seen GREAT
Thank you Hhh, nice of you to say. To help me learn how to keep making my videos better, can you say what was it that was particularly good?
Clarity and not a bad video recording also the tip to glue in small sections big help.
Great tutorial!
Thanks for sharing this. I just did a Rav4 with the same universal boots and had to trim both ends as you needed to here and it made for a very good fit. I deviated from your procedure in gluing them along the seams all at once though. Although I had both hands full it worked out well. Also, I looked over the clamps provided and just decided to go with zip ties.
As a side note... I cleaned the area with gasoline and rags and then the thin residue left behind by that got sprayed/washed down by more gasoline being shot though a spray gun. You can't over emphasize the need to have the area clean for the adhesive to do it's job.
How did the zip ties hold up?
@@garysnider4208 Not made for long life in extreme (dirt plus temperatures) environment... but it's his car.
Great video sir, excellent job!
Thank you kindly!
Really good camera work and very well explained even me Ma could follow that.
Wow! Thanks. You have no idea how pleased I am that someone noticed and thought to comment. I really hate wating videos with wobbly or shifting focus camera work (and there are millions like it), so early on after starting my channel I invested in a range of camera supports and small battery lights. I try to keep my production values high.
You save my life mate !
Excellent video!
I have installed Bailcast CVS18 over the inner right CV joint on a 2009 FWD Nissan Murano. Initially, I was confused with the "Trilobe Fitment" instructions. I thought, I needed to remove the "Trilobe Component" from the supplied boot. Since it wasn't there, I thought, I was sent the wrong boot or a defective one.
Eventually, I figured out, it was necessary to leave behind the last "rung" of the old boot and stretch the new boot over it. This remnant of the old boot functions as an adapter. I had difficulty installing the provided clamp on this end of the boot, i.e., the large end. It wasn't possible to get any pliers in an oblique position, due to the close clearance. You are right up against the differential. Ultimately, I broke the provided clamp.
In lieu of the provided clamp, I used two Harbor Freight stainless steel cable ties. One alone, was not long enough. I'm not confident this will hold. The strength and tightness of the cable ties appears to be lacking. The improvised nature of the trilobe fitment doesn't appear very stable. I can see the whole thing slipping off.
This vehicle is not on the road yet, due to other repairs in progress. So, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The provided clamp on the small end didn't work out either. I couldn't get it small enough. There I used one of the same stainless steel cable ties. I'm confident it will hold.
The only modification I made to the boot was cutting off one rung at the small end. The gluing worked great as per the video. I allowed it to dry overnight before stretching the boot in place. I was surprised how elastic the boot was; it was easy to maneuver into place. Prior to stretching the boot in place, I inserted the provide grease into the CV joint with a disposable syringe.
The only place the old boot was damaged was at the small end, i.e., a complete circular separation. I think, should I encounter the same circumstances again. I would leave the entire boot in place, except for the small separated piece and stretch the new one over it.
Regardless, great video! Your help is truly appreciated.
Thank you for this video I got the job done with only one hitch and that was that the small Bailcast clip was too small for a Peugeot 207 cc drive shaft. Great video thanks again!
My tip: Be sure that the sides of the clip that the pliers grip to crimp are at 90 degrees ie. square, otherwise the pliers won't grip and pinch.
I'm going to try a cable tie in place of the small clip before getting a replacement.
Nice work! Put 2x ties at 180 deg to each other
Excellent. Well explained.
Great job. I will buy this open boot and give it a try. Regards from Costa Rica.
Cleanliness is the key. let us know how you get on.
Excellent. Thanks for posting.
My pleasure! What car did you do it on?
@@CycloneCyd I used it on a 2003 Honda Fit. Thanks again.
Good tips I've tried these before always ends up messy ... but I will give them another shot 👍👍👍👍
Cleanliness is key! Also making sure you can fit the two edges together neatly for a good join.
Big up from Scotland 👍
Happy haggis hunting (assuming you live near one of the permitted hunting areas) 😂
Great video. Well done sir!
Thank you kindly!
Man , that tie rod is hell hahaja
The car is long gone to the great garage in the sky
Very good video!
Great Video! I’m doing this tomorrow, how’s the wear holding up? Any issues?
Good video. You've made it very clear.
Thank you Dave. Have you had to do one of these?
@@CycloneCyd Yes. It was easier than I thought it would be.
Great tips 👍🙏
Thank You for showing how much of a tangent using these "split boots" causes. if you already have the CV axel removed, it's better (and quicker) to tap apart the joint and use a proper boot.
If I went through the trouble of removing the axel, I would replace the axel.
Very helpful video with good tips :)
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Alan.
Tie wraps are a good alternative and quick. But not permanent fix. I would be worry of them getting brittle. I have never had luck with quick boots. I've just replaced the whole shaft.
Like with anything in life, one has to buy decent quality tie wraps. I've got some that are 20+ years old.
Back "in the day2, we never started a rally without gaffer tape and tie wraps in the car.
I've got some metal cable ties/tie wraps/zip ties or whatever else they are known as,some stainless ones and also plastic coated,they are ideal for jobs like this👍👍😎😎
Very Clear. Will do it to a Range Rover rear CVJ when it arrives in the post. Only £10.90!
Thanks Peter
Excellent video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic! Thanks
Great video! I actually did this repair some time ago and it all went off well. Despite my conviction that I did in fact perfectly glue it, leaks did appear shortly after installation. I just uploaded a video which shows post-installation issues and explored possible solutions.
Thanks👍 for the vid I have a 98 ford escort I'm gonna do the same work to it..
Hi Jose, do let us know how you get on especially if you find any particular Escort quirks
Very good vidéo, thank you from Tunisie
Thanks