Fitting front windscreen trim to scuttle tray. I've got an old golf mk3 I'd like to repair and the old rubber has perished. Scuttle trays are in good condition
I've always fixed my own vehicles, and I didn't even hear about "torque specs" until the internet age came along. Just crank that fucker down and default to over torqueing.
159 ft lbs os the torque spec of a cv axel nut. It's an absolute ridiculous amount of torque. I absolute do nit believe that 10 lbs less at 149 that it would make any difference other then making it easier to work on. 😮💨
@@nikkilovetheyardsale-again2608 The torque setting of the CV axle nut affects the preload of the wheel bearing, if you over tighten it you can overload the wheel bearing and shorten its life.
Usually disconnecting the steering knuckle from the strut gives enough room to remove the axle from the hub,not requiring disconnecting the ball joint or tie rod ,for those who dont have that tool, pb blaster on nuts and bolts if rusty ,also using impact on as many fasteners as possible certainly speeds up the job. Great video, certainly doable as you show
You right that it depends on the design of the suspension. We don't really have issues with rust here in Oz, there's no body salting the roads in winter for instance and humidity is reasonably low in Victoria where I live.
It really depends on the design of the suspension, Eg. in my car actually if you don't remove the tie rod along with the strut you won't get enough room to take the outer CV joint from the knuckle.
From my experience, totally disconnecting the knuckle from the strut and removing the tie rod connection is sufficient to allow removal of the axle from the hub. Disconnecting the lower arm ball joint is not necessary and is the most difficult to do of all the joints.
Disconnecting the ball joint or tie rod end with the ball joint separator tool that he uses is not difficult (at least outside the rust belt it's not). Its one of my favorite tools. Sometimes the extra clearance you gain is invaluable, so it's worth not rejecting out of hand.
great tip I just did an axle replacement on my 01 corolla and only had to remove strut bolts and ball joints to get the axle out. i honestly had a good amount of clearence after getting the struts but whatever is needed :D
Crickey mate this is bloody magic. I love it. Aussie accent only adds to it. And that’s not often said by a kiwi. Looking forward to watching more stuff from you!
If the old boot is actually split, then the dirt that gets in and mixes with the grease makes an effective grinding paste which will accelerate wear on the joint, so ALL the old grease needs to be cleaned out before repacking and reassembly if you want the repair to last.
If the boot is split by the time you notice it it will be too late to save the cv joint, you’re better off getting the complete joint and it won’t cost much more to replace.
No waffle alright and you are the ONLY guy to stress double support under the vehicle when jacked up. I know the steering knuckle usually only needed but lower ball joint open as you did makes it SO much easier and that screw tool is the way to go, I hate bashing the arm. As for the boot replacement you will know about the boot funnel. After I saw the local brake shop guy slip on two new boots like in 2 minutes each and clamp up strap with that proper tool you have, I was sold to pay for this bit as it saves knuckle removal and all that existing grease is still actually OK. Thanks for great video.
I've been looking at a boot funnel, they're a trick piece of gear. In Aus, people die each and every year unnecessarily when jacks fail. I don't trust the things as far as I can throw them (with both hands tied behind my back!) Jack stands are the only answer if you've gotta get under the thing.
Many years ago I replaced the boots on a 1977 Honda Accord. Today most cars have inexpensive rebuilt or new axle assemblies available in the after market. I recently replaced both drive shafts on a 2000 Honda Civic, each axle only cost 89 dollars. By replacing just the boot you still have to remove the drive shafts, usually you are replacing the boot because it is torn. This means that dirt and other contaminates have gotten inside and have begun destroying the CV joints so you also need to disassemble the joint and also replace the bearings. Then you install the boots after packing the CV joint with grease and crimp on the special clamps that hold the boots on. For me the inexpensive cost for a new axle assembly seems very compelling. My time is worth far more than it takes to rebuild a CV joint so I will always buy new or rebuilt axle assemblies.
You can use a split boot however doing so is not very smart. If you do not remove the CV joint from the car, the easiest way is to remove the drive shaft, there is no way to clean out all of the sand and other contaminates from the grease packed into a CV joint that lubricates the bearings and cage. Not completely cleaning the joint before packing the joint and new boot with fresh grease will cause the joint to fail shortly after doing the work. Also mort people only mess around with CV joints after they fail, There are two CV joints on each axle and the other boot is the same age as the one that failed and will soon fail and you will be back replacing that one in short order. For me it is far better to just purchase a new drive shaft and install it because both CV joints are also new. By the time it is time to do this job again you will probably no longer own the car. When I had a CV joint failure, since I had all of my tools out as well as jack and jack stands I replaced both axles.@@BradNichols-vo9eo
Great video; thanks for making it. I'm about to do a CV boot for the first time and now have a bit more confidence. I love the use of the wheelie bin as a tool stand; it definitely felt familiar! I'm very glad that my Subaru only requires one bolt for the ball joint to come out without even needing to undo the castle nut. Then, you get full access to remove the axle while leaving the strut and steering alone, so no alignment required afterwards.
Just rebuilt both drive shafts on my Daihatsu fortrak 1998 f78 , Totally stripped joints , racers ball bearings etc . Whilst it was all apart , new iner and outer wheel bearings and racers plus new knuckle seals . One dirty shirt job . Just subscribed.
Well done. Great lighting, narrating, and camera moving. One of the best DIY vids I've come across in a long time. I've done this type of repair before. I don't enjoy it. I need both CV boots replaced on my Tacoma. I'm probably going to pay to have it done even though I have all the skills and tools to DIY it. I'm just not feeling it right now........
just came across this video.... excellent "show and tell"👍. One suggestion: when splitting the ball joints, undo the retaining nut to where the bottom of the nut is just level with the end of the spigot thread. This leaves several turns of the thread inside the nut but sufficient room to insert the ball joint tool. It ensures that when the ball joint separates, it doesn't fly apart. Also, if you don't have a ball joint separator, partially loosen the nut as above then holding a block of hard wood on one side of the ball joint, sharply tap the other side of the ball joint several times with a hammer to loosen the taper. Often times it will just drop down (but the proper tool is far easier!)😉
Bloody well done mate. very well presented with a bit of humor. Your "specific torques" . 🤣 are taken straight out of MY book. I've got a 2020 LTZ Colorado, so sooner or later I will have to know how to do this without spending a fortune in a workshop. Thanks for sharing. PS. I forgot to mention. Good camera work too. I was watching another video done by someone wearing a chest camera and it was almost impossible to watch, well, it WAS actually and that is how I found yours.
As a mechanic of fifty years experience and still working , save yourself all the drama of special tools and the hassle of replacing rubber boots on worn cv joints. Change the whole driveshaft, no special tools needed, price of whole driveshafts are very reasonable and you will save yourself from the disappointment of replacing the rubber boot and having the cv joint failing shortly after! 😊👍
My 1998 Daihatsu charade needs new boots, I’ve only really got one option for cvs in Australia. For the price of new cvs I’ve now got tools to do the job again.
@@theoargyros3618 Whatever suits your situation, I’ve just replaced both driveshafts on my 2002 Mazda Protege. $250, absolute bargain , I’ve been fitting auto parts for over fifty years, theses were quality parts! 😊👍👍
@@marknathanks7592 As a mechanic of fifty years experience and still working I definitely disagree with you! Replaced literally hundreds of driveshafts and I have never had one come back, that’s right, not one! Good luck with your cheap boots and a packet of grease, I’ve always wanted to do the job properly.👌👌👌
Congratulations. I think this may be the first time I've seen someone install a split pin the correct way on UA-cam. Nice work in the CV bit too. Pretty well exactly as I do them. Cheers
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Most people seem to do them sideways. You did them the right way. I would have had my ass kicked all over the place if I had done the wrong way when I was an apprentice so it was refreshing to see you do it right. I guess it one of those things and I'm not even OCD haha.
@@lynpatnat Why is there a right way and a wrong way to put the split pin? Do you mean vertical as opposed to horizontal and wrap around the nut's sides vs over the end of the bolt? Or whether the eye goes towards the inside or outside of the vehicle? Non-expert intuition tells me that the "correct"way may be eye to the back and ends wrapped either way sideways around the nut towards the back. That way any obstacles, rocks, etc you may scrape driving forwards are less likely to open up or break the pin.
@@dirk_t_wachter Yes there is a right way. As done in the video. The pun in out in so that when you split it the top wraps over the top of the bolt. Then cut off the excess of the leg and gently hammer the stub into the castellation so there is no sharp edge to catch yourself on. Wrapping the split pin around the thread isn't the way to do it but everyone can do as they like. That's their choice. It's just when I see it done the right way I smile and know they have been taught correctly. Maybe it's OCD.
I remember doing this 40 years ago, I couldn't afford a mechanic, and I needed my car to go to work. I had to take the bus until I fixed it. Still gives me nightmares of how I did it. No UA-cam, all guess work, although I did ask for advice from a neighbor across the road about hammering to looses some nuts and bolts. I noticed the scratches on his hands, it was the least of my worries as I'm sure is his. Thanks for the video which I watched with a lot a anxiety.
Use a stretch boot kit shaft and CV remains on the car. DIY tool is a simple cone and lots of lube. Pro level tool is either a pneumatic boot stretcher or one that works driven by a normal socket wrench. I have a pneumatic one great investment
Do appreciate your video and how to replace the boot on the CV axle I think I will start doing mines from now on I have the expense of always just buying a CV axle not wanting to replace the boot but seeing your step by step really inspired me to start doing my own thank you for the tips and the video God bless you
To pull the axle - Hang the axle more or less horizontally by tightening a rope around the outer end of the axle and securing it to the spring. Wrap another rope around the inner axle case (between the inner axle case and the gearbox), creating a simple self-tightening loop. Extend the other end of the rope outward along the axle and attach a regular hammer to it. Make a couple of hits in the outward direction along the axle. The hammer's momentum applied along the rope (along the axle) will pull the axle from the gearbox easily. I just tried it, and it works well. It's better to use a non-scratching rope, such as Dyneema.
Good video. In years past I replaced the boots on my minivans but recently replaced an axle on the passenger side. The axle was only ten bucks more than the boots and I didn't have to take them apart. Quicker out and in. the inner boots are also getting harder to find for the older vans. The one I just worked on is a 99 Caravan. Good stuff. Happy Motoring.
I have a 07 fj cruiser with broken inside boot. Boots are like 80 and a whole axle is only 150. I've no clue how long my boot has been broken but I'm sure a good while lol.
All ways a Great Video, Just remember Don't hit the thread end of anything unless using a soft headed hammer or putting the nut back on loosely and hit the nut.
Wow the voice is so calm. I watched your steps I will replace also mine without a mechanic on Alfa Romeo 159 jts thanks buddy.you deserve plenty of subscribers hopefully🙂🙂
Not sure what parts cost down under, but here in the states, if the boot is torn,, I'd rather replace the axle assembly than the boot. It's actually less work, and I only have to do it once. Most axle assemblies are under 100$ even at parts stores. Most people here in the states, only find out about a torn boot when they get their vehicle inspected. Most states only require inspection once per year and some states don't even require annual inspections. Great job on the presentation. Very helpful whether replacing the boot or the axle. God bless, stay well.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Nobody likes doing the same job twice, right? But it depends what the customer wants. I can usually talk them into a new axle assembly. Cheers. Keep up the great work.
A no BS version which is great! On Subaru they actually state that the spindle nut is a once only application but I'm not sure on that vehicle you're working on?
This was a really good informative video with clear simple instruction. I have a question please: Im no mechanic but i was under the impression that a special installation press tool was needed to refit the ball joints again nice and snug? Especially as they required a seperator tool to pop them out. Any advice or info in that would grately help me. Many thanks. 👍😊
The best CV fix I just recently used on my ripped cv boot was loctite ultragel control, I didn't have to remove the cv axle. Make sure to clean the grease mess and apply the loctite ultragel control. It's only $5.
thanks for teaching me the easy way to break the ball joint's loose. I got to look for one of those . so i can break them loose the easy way like you with out wrecking the ball joint boot or having to chase the threads from getting mad at it an hitting the end with a hammer.
I'm curious if it's possible to replicate what you did to remove the CV joint from the middle shaft on the 1993 corolla. All videos I've seen so far requires you to cut out the ball bearing retainers to remove the outer CV joint.
SHORTCUT......I remove the Big nut then the lower ball joint. I leave the caliper and the tie rod on. pull the axle put it in a vice do the boot put it back in the car. done.
Good video. Suggest changing both boots at the same time, often its the inner boot that fails first, which is kinda odd as they don't flex as much. Couple of pointers, when using the ball joint separation tool only loosen the nut but leave it on flush with the end of the thread, same goes when hitting or using a puller on the end of the drive shaft, that way you can't burr the ends of the thread and even if you did when you remove the nut after separation it will clean the thread up for you. The other pointer, get an assistant to hold the brakes on for you when undoing the hub nut before removing the caliper. Not criticising, just having buggered up the odd thread end over the years learned the hard way to leave those nuts on to protect the threads till the last moment. Just marvelling at the difference in the undersides iof a Cruiser in Aus and one you'd come across here in England, here everything would be rusty as hell or if like mine everything caked in grease or ACF50 trying to stop said rust 🙂 Just had the rear aircon pipes replaced right through on my Prado, mechanic was overjoyed at my rust prevention techniques 😁 think my parentage might have been called into question a few times
One other thing. All home mechanics should invest in a rail of 6 sided sockets, and a pack of impact sockets (usually black) as well which are thicker and designed to take abuse and should be used whenever possible with impact guns. These things lessen considerably the possibility of rounding nuts and bolt heads off.
Got an 09 bt50 done the lh side cv no dramas but the right side couldn’t get the cv out for the life of me. Is it worth taking the lower control arm ball joint off
I've never had to replace a CV boot to date, but when I do, I'll know what to do. Your garbage bin tells me you live on the western side of Melbourne. Not a bad part of the world. Thanks again for another interesting video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Sir, I would like to know where you bought that ball joint removal tool. This is the first I've seen it. Here in the states we use a "pickle fork" to perform that which results in the destruction of the ball joint boot! Not desirable compared to what I viewed. Thanks!
That's the slow and rough way. Leave the nuts on all joints before hitting, and it won't go flying or damage the thread. You can pop off the inner booth and remove the big circlip and remove the 1/2 shaft leaving the inner joint in place.
Thanks for this. May I ask for some advice, I keep splitting my cv boot on my Hilux, it has a 2inch lift kit. It splits the boots with or without a diff drop kit. I currently have 15 inch rims on it. If I get bigger rims eg 17inch will that reduce the angle of the cv. ATM the angle is quite significant with 15 inch rims. Cheers
I had a 85 ford Taurus with original cv axels with 150.000 miles on it and had a cv axle that was popping and clicking and had a ripped boot and i found the best way to fix that problem i used that insulation in a can and i filled the boot completely full of that insulation foam and then i let it set up over night and man it was amazing the cv axle was quite and i put another 150,000 miles on that cv axel so if you have a ripped boot give that insulation foam a try you will be glad you did
I religiously put some Anti Seize on the spline that goes through the hub. It makes it easier to get out in the future. As they always rust up. Then you Bugger the thread, beating it. Hang on. That just happened..... :( Great video. Misses in the background. I think was wondering who you were talking too. lol
Yep it amazed me I buggered the thread with a dead blow (plasic) hammer.... I though maybe it was when I was pulling it out of the hub. Anyhoo, the file "fixed" it! And great tip with the antiseize, I'll be doing that from here on in.
I have a question. I just changed my son’s brakes and notice the grease everywhere and the cv boot is split inside the seam. He has no issues right now, so I’m assuming his axle is fine. So we can just change the boot, and not the whole axle? I think I can handle that.
Try spraying down all the rubber components with AT 205 several times/yr. Scotty Kilmer vid for it. Re-juvenates the rubber. Cheap preventative maintenance. And if you ever have a leak with a rubber seal on/between major components? You might get away with pouring in a bottle instead of a major repair? Handy stuff to have.
Do you need to refill the transmission oil after this? since some of it might leak out of there? Also can you undo the steering rack bolt with a good old hammer? or do i need this tool?
Very little oil leaked out, so I didn't top it up. Some have success with the hammer method to release the taper on the steering rack bolt, though the proper tool makes the process a lot easier.
I absolutely dont have the money for a new cv axel let alone all these special tools. I do have a shit ton of tools. Everything i have it should have came off. I just now got the 12 point 30 mm cv axel nut off the front of the hub and now the hub bolts on the back of the hub assembly are seized and the cv boot is exactly behind them i can barly get ANY tool in there to even try to get the bolts out but the little i can get a tool onto these bolts it's just NOT grabbing and its so seized the vehicle cant move 😢 do you have any tips for these bolts on the back of the hub? I had to heat up the 12 point cv nut for 10 minutes then take a candle and melt it on there. Wait 5 minutes then i gave it my every bit of strength with a 5ft breaker bar with a 3 ft extension to get the one nut free. Idk what to do at this point. It's been a week, and i just now got this 1 bolt off 😢. All of this because i took my baby to a piece of shit disingenuous "mechanic" when i had not even time to shower and never checked. Never ever again will anyone ever touch my vehicles but me. I paid over $400 to have the front 2 hubs done and they were never even touched. 😔if you get back to me i would appreciate it so much if not ill be bustin my ass trying to save my truck today. After a nap. 😮💨
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, it works great. I even did this to my brother's car, and he loved the ideal. I did my sister's Van about 3 years ago and she still driving it.
When encouraging the bolts out please leave the nut on level with the end of the thread of the bolt this way you don’t damage the thread if bolt is very tight.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing just looks a very sharp angle on drivers side near the small clip that holds boot on . That video you did what year hilux was that ? Some cv specialists quoted $300 to supply and fit 4 new boots ,what's ya thoughts on that price?
Awesome video mate! I’m going to attempt this on the weekend. Silly question perhaps was that a rubber mallet when needing encouragement on the disc? Do you ever use a dead blow?
That'll be highly dependent on the model and availability. If you're using an OEM boot, there's no reason why it shouldn't last as long as the original. Though with some models, it'll be cheaper just to replace the whole shaft.
Okay so, you're in Australia and I am in the USA, do I have to do this upside down for it to work properly 😉 Lol, great video. I knew how to do this but needed a refreshener to make sure I remembered correctly, great video.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Maybe, but I have found them as OEM fitment on some older cars. They seem to be able to handle the job, after all, there is little structural load.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing when I saw that clamp tightener, it clicked a memory of my water truck days. I had what was called a "bandit" tool and I've been scratching my head trying to remember what the hell I did with it" it was awesome for clamping up 3 inch hose connections without having the "snaggy" clamps that always seemed to get caught on everything.
Tie wraps are plastic that have a property called creep , stretching under constant tension. They also expand and shrink under extreme temperatures. The metal ties are supplied with the boots which do not creep and a lot more temp. Resistant.
You dont need that tool. Give the surrounding part of the hub a few taps and will fall out. Trying to make you buy unnecessary tools. When putting back in lower on to axle stand.. the weight will stop the joint from spinning
If you hit it a bit too hard, you can cause the taper to go out of round, leading to the taper locking system being no longer effective, ask me how I know.......
So much easier to purchase the axle, pull out and shove in the next completely assembled axle. Its a little extra but much faster. However, good video sir.
THIS IS HACK BUT I DID THIS ON A BONEVILLE CRASHER TO FIX A RIPPED BOOT, ALL YOU NEED IS DUCT TAPE AND AXLE GREASE. JACK THE CAR OR TRUCK UP SO THE TIRE SPINS FREELY, PUT AXLE GREASE INTO THE BOOT THROUGH THE TEAR IN THE BOOT, CLEAN THE DIRT OFF THE BOOT AND WRAP DUCT TAPE AROUND THE BOOT AS YOU SPIN THE TIRE, THATS IT, YOURE DONE 👍 THE CV JOINT CLICKING WENT AWAY ALSO.
My driver side CV axle just went last night, it's been limping on its last leg for the last 2mos, both went out at the same time, got the passenger side done, and it was a 4day job, last night on my way home from picking up my wife, the driver side decided to go. Now I have to replace the axle, or I may just buy the boot replacement kit. I really wouldn't want to have to go through that repair again.
Hi mate is the process the same on my 99 hilux with manual locking hubs? I watched a video where a bloke replaced his cv without taking the hub or brakes off but didn’t make as much sense as your video
@@LockyourHubs4WDing no I compared the 2 boots drivers side good. Passenger all busted up and with the wheel off I can move the axle a bit.the tire is bald as can be and maybe wheel hub?
What DIY mechanical projects do you want to learn about?
How and why to change power steering fluid.
It’s one of those jobs , thank goodness it’s done 👍
Fitting front windscreen trim to scuttle tray. I've got an old golf mk3 I'd like to repair and the old rubber has perished. Scuttle trays are in good condition
How to fix a Split CV Boot with out putting a new one on..😂
Hahaha
"I'm sure there's a torque spec for it but I don't know what it is" You are a revolutionary hero my friend, right up there with GW😅🤣😂
Hahaha!
I've always fixed my own vehicles, and I didn't even hear about "torque specs" until the internet age came along. Just crank that fucker down and default to over torqueing.
159 ft lbs os the torque spec of a cv axel nut. It's an absolute ridiculous amount of torque. I absolute do nit believe that 10 lbs less at 149 that it would make any difference other then making it easier to work on. 😮💨
@@nikkilovetheyardsale-again2608 Agree. Too much torque result in more heat. Advice to torque to spec. Nice work though :)
@@nikkilovetheyardsale-again2608 The torque setting of the CV axle nut affects the preload of the wheel bearing, if you over tighten it you can overload the wheel bearing and shorten its life.
Usually disconnecting the steering knuckle from the strut gives enough room to remove the axle from the hub,not requiring disconnecting the ball joint or tie rod ,for those who dont have that tool, pb blaster on nuts and bolts if rusty ,also using impact on as many fasteners as possible certainly speeds up the job.
Great video, certainly doable as you show
You right that it depends on the design of the suspension. We don't really have issues with rust here in Oz, there's no body salting the roads in winter for instance and humidity is reasonably low in Victoria where I live.
It really depends on the design of the suspension, Eg. in my car actually if you don't remove the tie rod along with the strut you won't get enough room to take the outer CV joint from the knuckle.
From my experience, totally disconnecting the knuckle from the strut and removing the tie rod connection is sufficient to allow removal of the axle from the hub. Disconnecting the lower arm ball joint is not necessary and is the most difficult to do of all the joints.
Disconnecting the ball joint or tie rod end with the ball joint separator tool that he uses is not difficult (at least outside the rust belt it's not). Its one of my favorite tools.
Sometimes the extra clearance you gain is invaluable, so it's worth not rejecting out of hand.
great tip I just did an axle replacement on my 01 corolla and only had to remove strut bolts and ball joints to get the axle out. i honestly had a good amount of clearence after getting the struts but whatever is needed :D
Crickey mate this is bloody magic. I love it. Aussie accent only adds to it. And that’s not often said by a kiwi. Looking forward to watching more stuff from you!
Haha, I never think about myself as having an accent! Though I definitely do.... :)
Excellent straighforward video with no unnecessary waffle. It's given me the confidence to do this job if required on my car.
Thanks mate, I appreciate it.
If the old boot is actually split, then the dirt that gets in and mixes with the grease makes an effective grinding paste which will accelerate wear on the joint, so ALL the old grease needs to be cleaned out before repacking and reassembly if you want the repair to last.
If the boot has been split for a while, I agree.
Thanks for that info!
If the boot is split by the time you notice it it will be too late to save the cv joint, you’re better off getting the complete joint and it won’t cost much more to replace.
Any advice for removing old grease? Brake cleaner??
I usually spray degreaser initially, then keep washing out with keep until it's all gone. (Well close anyway!)
No waffle alright and you are the ONLY guy to stress double support under the vehicle when jacked up. I know the steering knuckle usually only needed but lower ball joint open as you did makes it SO much easier and that screw tool is the way to go, I hate bashing the arm. As for the boot replacement you will know about the boot funnel. After I saw the local brake shop guy slip on two new boots like in 2 minutes each and clamp up strap with that proper tool you have, I was sold to pay for this bit as it saves knuckle removal and all that existing grease is still actually OK. Thanks for great video.
I've been looking at a boot funnel, they're a trick piece of gear.
In Aus, people die each and every year unnecessarily when jacks fail. I don't trust the things as far as I can throw them (with both hands tied behind my back!)
Jack stands are the only answer if you've gotta get under the thing.
Many years ago I replaced the boots on a 1977 Honda Accord. Today most cars have inexpensive rebuilt or new axle assemblies available in the after market. I recently replaced both drive shafts on a 2000 Honda Civic, each axle only cost 89 dollars. By replacing just the boot you still have to remove the drive shafts, usually you are replacing the boot because it is torn. This means that dirt and other contaminates have gotten inside and have begun destroying the CV joints so you also need to disassemble the joint and also replace the bearings. Then you install the boots after packing the CV joint with grease and crimp on the special clamps that hold the boots on. For me the inexpensive cost for a new axle assembly seems very compelling. My time is worth far more than it takes to rebuild a CV joint so I will always buy new or rebuilt axle assemblies.
If the parts are available, that's definitely a consideration.
Not with a Split Boot . 20 minutes your done leaving wheel on. Think smart. 🤣🇺🇲👊✌️
You can use a split boot however doing so is not very smart. If you do not remove the CV joint from the car, the easiest way is to remove the drive shaft, there is no way to clean out all of the sand and other contaminates from the grease packed into a CV joint that lubricates the bearings and cage. Not completely cleaning the joint before packing the joint and new boot with fresh grease will cause the joint to fail shortly after doing the work. Also mort people only mess around with CV joints after they fail, There are two CV joints on each axle and the other boot is the same age as the one that failed and will soon fail and you will be back replacing that one in short order. For me it is far better to just purchase a new drive shaft and install it because both CV joints are also new. By the time it is time to do this job again you will probably no longer own the car. When I had a CV joint failure, since I had all of my tools out as well as jack and jack stands I replaced both axles.@@BradNichols-vo9eo
The best CV boot replacement video on UA-cam! Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
You need to watch other videos. This is not recommended when changing cv boots.
You are a great teacher very few make it so easy to understand
Thanks!
Teacher say you great student now go wipe the crap off your nose
I second that, good videos mate
Thanks!
Great video; thanks for making it. I'm about to do a CV boot for the first time and now have a bit more confidence. I love the use of the wheelie bin as a tool stand; it definitely felt familiar! I'm very glad that my Subaru only requires one bolt for the ball joint to come out without even needing to undo the castle nut. Then, you get full access to remove the axle while leaving the strut and steering alone, so no alignment required afterwards.
Best HD video with great explanation particularly on how to disassemble/re-grease/re-boot these style of CV shafts, thanks man.
Thanks!
Just rebuilt both drive shafts on my Daihatsu fortrak 1998 f78 ,
Totally stripped joints , racers ball bearings etc .
Whilst it was all apart , new iner and outer wheel bearings and racers plus new knuckle seals .
One dirty shirt job .
Just subscribed.
CV grease still freaks me out! It sticks like the proverbial to a blanket!
Well done. Great lighting, narrating, and camera moving. One of the best DIY vids I've come across in a long time. I've done this type of repair before. I don't enjoy it. I need both CV boots replaced on my Tacoma. I'm probably going to pay to have it done even though I have all the skills and tools to DIY it. I'm just not feeling it right now........
Sometimes I don't either, then remember I probably want the job done properly......
just came across this video.... excellent "show and tell"👍. One suggestion: when splitting the ball joints, undo the retaining nut to where the bottom of the nut is just level with the end of the spigot thread. This leaves several turns of the thread inside the nut but sufficient room to insert the ball joint tool. It ensures that when the ball joint separates, it doesn't fly apart. Also, if you don't have a ball joint separator, partially loosen the nut as above then holding a block of hard wood on one side of the ball joint, sharply tap the other side of the ball joint several times with a hammer to loosen the taper. Often times it will just drop down (but the proper tool is far easier!)😉
Well explained with very good camera angles explanation and a splash of humour. Thank you for sharing 👍😎
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Bloody well done mate. very well presented with a bit of humor. Your "specific torques" . 🤣 are taken straight out of MY book. I've got a 2020 LTZ Colorado, so sooner or later I will have to know how to do this without spending a fortune in a workshop. Thanks for sharing.
PS. I forgot to mention. Good camera work too. I was watching another video done by someone wearing a chest camera and it was almost impossible to watch, well, it WAS actually and that is how I found yours.
As a mechanic of fifty years experience and still working , save yourself all the drama of special tools and the hassle of replacing rubber boots on worn cv joints. Change the whole driveshaft, no special tools needed, price of whole driveshafts are very reasonable and you will save yourself from the disappointment of replacing the rubber boot and having the cv joint failing shortly after! 😊👍
If they're available, that's probably the easiest option.
My 1998 Daihatsu charade needs new boots, I’ve only really got one option for cvs in Australia. For the price of new cvs I’ve now got tools to do the job again.
@@theoargyros3618 Whatever suits your situation, I’ve just replaced both driveshafts on my 2002 Mazda Protege. $250, absolute bargain , I’ve been fitting auto parts for over fifty years, theses were quality parts! 😊👍👍
I have heard that all too often aftermarket c/v axles are less than good quality, worse sometimes than a re greased and booted originial.
@@marknathanks7592 As a mechanic of fifty years experience and still working I definitely disagree with you! Replaced literally hundreds of driveshafts and I have never had one come back, that’s right, not one! Good luck with your cheap boots and a packet of grease, I’ve always wanted to do the job properly.👌👌👌
Thank you mate . This is the very first time I’ve ever seen this done . Thank you again
Congratulations. I think this may be the first time I've seen someone install a split pin the correct way on UA-cam. Nice work in the CV bit too. Pretty well exactly as I do them. Cheers
Thanks mate, I didn't know there was another way to do the split pins!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Most people seem to do them sideways. You did them the right way. I would have had my ass kicked all over the place if I had done the wrong way when I was an apprentice so it was refreshing to see you do it right. I guess it one of those things and I'm not even OCD haha.
Hahaha!
@@lynpatnat Why is there a right way and a wrong way to put the split pin? Do you mean vertical as opposed to horizontal and wrap around the nut's sides vs over the end of the bolt? Or whether the eye goes towards the inside or outside of the vehicle?
Non-expert intuition tells me that the "correct"way may be eye to the back and ends wrapped either way sideways around the nut towards the back. That way any obstacles, rocks, etc you may scrape driving forwards are less likely to open up or break the pin.
@@dirk_t_wachter Yes there is a right way. As done in the video. The pun in out in so that when you split it the top wraps over the top of the bolt. Then cut off the excess of the leg and gently hammer the stub into the castellation so there is no sharp edge to catch yourself on.
Wrapping the split pin around the thread isn't the way to do it but everyone can do as they like. That's their choice. It's just when I see it done the right way I smile and know they have been taught correctly. Maybe it's OCD.
I remember doing this 40 years ago, I couldn't afford a mechanic, and I needed my car to go to work. I had to take the bus until I fixed it. Still gives me nightmares of how I did it. No UA-cam, all guess work, although I did ask for advice from a neighbor across the road about hammering to looses some nuts and bolts. I noticed the scratches on his hands, it was the least of my worries as I'm sure is his. Thanks for the video which I watched with a lot a anxiety.
Did it work though?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes, it did, somewhat to my surprise.
@@MichaelHarrisIreland fantastic!
I love the way you explain things and how you make do/skip/skimp with what you have.
Use a stretch boot kit shaft and CV remains on the car. DIY tool is a simple cone and lots of lube.
Pro level tool is either a pneumatic boot stretcher or one that works driven by a normal socket wrench.
I have a pneumatic one great investment
I've seen them, they look fantastic, unfortunately, I don't own one.
The only thing I have learned from this video is that I should just take the car to the mechanic. Thank you for that, Sir!
It's not that hard, give it a crack!
This is good..some fools can not do small things like this.
Has de tener mucho dinero !
most mechanics would just want to replace the whole axle may as well for the labor to be worth it
It depends on cost and availability.
Great presentation! Loved the humor. I only wish I had this video twenty years ago when I did mine. Great work.
Thanks mate!
Do appreciate your video and how to replace the boot on the CV axle I think I will start doing mines from now on I have the expense of always just buying a CV axle not wanting to replace the boot but seeing your step by step really inspired me to start doing my own thank you for the tips and the video God bless you
Thanks mate, I appreciate the kind words.
This another reason not to give up old commodore... no CV joints but this was a great video.
Except for the Adventra!
To pull the axle - Hang the axle more or less horizontally by tightening a rope around the outer end of the axle and securing it to the spring. Wrap another rope around the inner axle case (between the inner axle case and the gearbox), creating a simple self-tightening loop. Extend the other end of the rope outward along the axle and attach a regular hammer to it. Make a couple of hits in the outward direction along the axle. The hammer's momentum applied along the rope (along the axle) will pull the axle from the gearbox easily. I just tried it, and it works well. It's better to use a non-scratching rope, such as Dyneema.
Good video. In years past I replaced the boots on my minivans but recently replaced an axle on the passenger side. The axle was only ten bucks more than the boots and I didn't have to take them apart. Quicker out and in. the inner boots are also getting harder to find for the older vans. The one I just worked on is a 99 Caravan. Good stuff. Happy Motoring.
Thank mate, that's definitely an option depending on price and availability.
I have a 07 fj cruiser with broken inside boot. Boots are like 80 and a whole axle is only 150. I've no clue how long my boot has been broken but I'm sure a good while lol.
Might be worth the piece of mind to swap the whole thing.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yeah I swapped the whole thing. My cv joint was absolutely shot lol. Jingled likev a Christmas Carol when shaking it.
@@imkaneforever lol
All ways a Great Video, Just remember Don't hit the thread end of anything unless using a soft headed hammer or putting the nut back on loosely and hit the nut.
Definitely want to be careful with that thread!
Just watched it and found it excellent.Brilliant relaxed tutorial getting all information you would need to do the job.
Glad you enjoyed it
Wow the voice is so calm. I watched your steps I will replace also mine without a mechanic on Alfa Romeo 159 jts thanks buddy.you deserve plenty of subscribers hopefully🙂🙂
Not sure what parts cost down under, but here in the states, if the boot is torn,, I'd rather replace the axle assembly than the boot. It's actually less work, and I only have to do it once. Most axle assemblies are under 100$ even at parts stores. Most people here in the states, only find out about a torn boot when they get their vehicle inspected. Most states only require inspection once per year and some states don't even require annual inspections. Great job on the presentation. Very helpful whether replacing the boot or the axle. God bless, stay well.
Thanks mate, at the time of filming, the boot was available and I had to wait for the axle.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Nobody likes doing the same job twice, right? But it depends what the customer wants. I can usually talk them into a new axle assembly. Cheers. Keep up the great work.
Glad to see you got the wheel under the car!👌👍
Always!
I need to do a CV replacement on my falcon and this pretty much walked me through it, should be a cakewalk now. Will update once done 💪💪
It's not that hard.
If I can’t do it I shouldn’t be touching cars 🤣
love how you refer to the objects and items as he and him
Thanks :)
wish i would of thought to watch this before having dealership just swap out the axle for a new one. Thanks for the video
You're welcome, the more self sufficient we can all be, the better off we all are.
Great video with all the info I needed to replace my CV Boot.
Appreciate the detailed start to finish procedure!
Thanks mate!
@@LockyourHubs4WDingand thank you for using a camera stand and not waving a mobile phone camera around
Haha, if I could, I would!
A no BS version which is great! On Subaru they actually state that the spindle nut is a once only application but I'm not sure on that vehicle you're working on?
It's a Hyundai i30
Very well put together video, Amazing work and well detailed, Best CV Joint Boot Replacement Video on the internet
Thanks!
Helpful to all DIY buddies. If someone could design an easy replacement boot rather than removing all stuffs for the sake of just 2 dollars boot.
You can get split boots, though they're not as good
@LockyourHubs4WDing never use split boots.
This was a really good informative video with clear simple instruction. I have a question please: Im no mechanic but i was under the impression that a special installation press tool was needed to refit the ball joints again nice and snug? Especially as they required a seperator tool to pop them out. Any advice or info in that would grately help me. Many thanks. 👍😊
It is a locking taper, though a press isn't needed, you can use the nut to draw the taper closed if it won't pop in easily.
The best CV fix I just recently used on my ripped cv boot was loctite ultragel control, I didn't have to remove the cv axle. Make sure to clean the grease mess and apply the loctite ultragel control. It's only $5.
Glued it back together?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yea. It hasn't leaked yet no grease anywhere.
You should try it on your YT video.
Not the way to do it,replace the boot.
I have done it many times on my car. Saved some money for the labour.
Great! 👍
thanks for teaching me the easy way to break the ball joint's loose. I got to look for one of those . so i can break them loose the easy way like you with out wrecking the ball joint boot or having to chase the threads from getting
mad at it an hitting the end with a hammer.
Yep, they work great! Especially with an impact..... :)
A grunt and a half is all it takes, no need for fancy torque wrenches. How did you get the oil back in?
Next to none ran out, just a dribble.
Here in England we still use foot pounds for measuring torque, gruntage must be an Antipodean scale of measurement
We've learnt to adapt out here in the colonies! :)
I'm curious if it's possible to replicate what you did to remove the CV joint from the middle shaft on the 1993 corolla. All videos I've seen so far requires you to cut out the ball bearing retainers to remove the outer CV joint.
Sorry, not familiar with that car.
Green p u r a knob this bloke made a great easy to follow video n even spoke bloody english..old skool style how i like
Thank you for a straight forward, no bullshit, hands on demonstration. Great video!
Thanks mate!
Nice video. You are a good mechanic. I am motivated to do what you are doing. I enjoyed your video.
That is the best replacement I have ever seen. Thank you very much. EXCELLENT Mate..
You're welcome!
SHORTCUT......I remove the Big nut then the lower ball joint. I leave the caliper and the tie rod on. pull the axle put it in a vice do the boot put it back in the car. done.
I think that might be car dependant, sometimes the brake line and the tie rod don't allow enough angle to get the axle out.
I m with u. What i use to do
Good video.
Suggest changing both boots at the same time, often its the inner boot that fails first, which is kinda odd as they don't flex as much.
Couple of pointers, when using the ball joint separation tool only loosen the nut but leave it on flush with the end of the thread, same goes when hitting or using a puller on the end of the drive shaft, that way you can't burr the ends of the thread and even if you did when you remove the nut after separation it will clean the thread up for you.
The other pointer, get an assistant to hold the brakes on for you when undoing the hub nut before removing the caliper.
Not criticising, just having buggered up the odd thread end over the years learned the hard way to leave those nuts on to protect the threads till the last moment.
Just marvelling at the difference in the undersides iof a Cruiser in Aus and one you'd come across here in England, here everything would be rusty as hell or if like mine everything caked in grease or ACF50 trying to stop said rust 🙂
Just had the rear aircon pipes replaced right through on my Prado, mechanic was overjoyed at my rust prevention techniques 😁 think my parentage might have been called into question a few times
One other thing.
All home mechanics should invest in a rail of 6 sided sockets, and a pack of impact sockets (usually black) as well which are thicker and designed to take abuse and should be used whenever possible with impact guns.
These things lessen considerably the possibility of rounding nuts and bolt heads off.
Here in New Zealand and I presume Austraya too we don’t use salt on the roads to de-ice. just slide off the road she’ll be right mate.
Just a suggestion, the clip should be renewed.
Got an 09 bt50 done the lh side cv no dramas but the right side couldn’t get the cv out for the life of me. Is it worth taking the lower control arm ball joint off
I've never had to replace a CV boot to date, but when I do, I'll know what to do. Your garbage bin tells me you live on the western side of Melbourne. Not a bad part of the world. Thanks again for another interesting video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yes! Good old Brimbank Council.... How many times have they been sacked now?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Bombers mate?
Those new after-market cv boots last about 1 to 2 years I found, after the originals had done 15 years!
Some are great, some are rubbish. It's a matter of sorting the wheat from the chaff
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I bought the rubbish kind... Learnt that the hard way, but now I can do a boot change with my eyes closed!
Sir, I would like to know where you bought that ball joint removal tool. This is the first I've seen it. Here in the states we use a "pickle fork" to perform that which results in the destruction of the ball joint boot! Not desirable compared to what I viewed. Thanks!
It was purchased from an Aussie retailer Repco.
That's the slow and rough way.
Leave the nuts on all joints before hitting, and it won't go flying or damage the thread.
You can pop off the inner booth and remove the big circlip and remove the 1/2 shaft leaving the inner joint in place.
Depends on how much clearance you have around the inner to reinstall the band. That wouldn't have worked on this car.
Thanks for this. May I ask for some advice, I keep splitting my cv boot on my Hilux, it has a 2inch lift kit. It splits the boots with or without a diff drop kit. I currently have 15 inch rims on it. If I get bigger rims eg 17inch will that reduce the angle of the cv. ATM the angle is quite significant with 15 inch rims.
Cheers
Gratitude! I always wanted to know how to fix these!
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video...
Is it possible to do this without removing the driveshaft, leaving it attached to the transmission?
It would make the process a lot more difficult, better to just pop out the drive shaft.
How on earth do you get a breaker bar on the axle nut if you put the wheel back on & set it on the ground??
Usually there is a hole in the centre of the wheel that'll provide access.
I had a 85 ford Taurus with original cv axels with 150.000 miles on it and had a cv axle that was popping and clicking and had a ripped boot and i found the best way to fix that problem i used that insulation in a can and i filled the boot completely full of that insulation foam and then i let it set up over night and man it was amazing the cv axle was quite and i put another 150,000 miles on that cv axel so if you have a ripped boot give that insulation foam a try you will be glad you did
Is this April 1st ? :)
I have a dodge 2008 4 wheel drive right side got hole in boot oil come out of boot I need to take it off and see what’s going on in there.
My advice is grab the parts and get the job done before it gets any worse. You don't want contaminants getting in there making things worse.
The next Sunday, when I have nothing to do all day, I'll give this a try. BTW: Where do I buy these "simple tools"?
There are links in the description!
I religiously put some Anti Seize on the spline that goes through the hub. It makes it easier to get out in the future. As they always rust up. Then you Bugger the thread, beating it.
Hang on. That just happened..... :(
Great video. Misses in the background. I think was wondering who you were talking too. lol
Yep it amazed me I buggered the thread with a dead blow (plasic) hammer.... I though maybe it was when I was pulling it out of the hub. Anyhoo, the file "fixed" it!
And great tip with the antiseize, I'll be doing that from here on in.
I have a question. I just changed my son’s brakes and notice the grease everywhere and the cv boot is split inside the seam. He has no issues right now, so I’m assuming his axle is fine. So we can just change the boot, and not the whole axle? I think I can handle that.
Just make sure the grease isn't contaminated with dirt and you should be fine.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing it’s done. Had to use tie wraps to hold it. Dam clamp broke off.
Fantastic instructions, very well filmed and narrated.
Thanks mate, I appreciate it.
Try spraying down all the rubber components with AT 205 several times/yr. Scotty Kilmer vid for it. Re-juvenates the rubber. Cheap preventative maintenance. And if you ever have a leak with a rubber seal on/between major components? You might get away with pouring in a bottle instead of a major repair? Handy stuff to have.
Do you need to refill the transmission oil after this? since some of it might leak out of there? Also can you undo the steering rack bolt with a good old hammer? or do i need this tool?
Very little oil leaked out, so I didn't top it up.
Some have success with the hammer method to release the taper on the steering rack bolt, though the proper tool makes the process a lot easier.
Brilliant, well explained , love you humour . Ready to my Rexton now .
Glad to hear!
Wouldn't it be worth replacing the inner cv boot at the same time while you have gone to the effort to remove the driveshaft?
Excellent video! I have to do this job on my daughters '99 Honda CRV. Much help...thanks! -Korey
Thanks!
Cv joint axel driver side !!Japan make so hard to find!! American made.are 4 inches shorter!!
Honda civic lx 1998 1.6!!
If you have to take it all the way apart, would it not be better just to replace the entire axle?
It depends on price and availability.
I absolutely dont have the money for a new cv axel let alone all these special tools. I do have a shit ton of tools. Everything i have it should have came off. I just now got the 12 point 30 mm cv axel nut off the front of the hub and now the hub bolts on the back of the hub assembly are seized and the cv boot is exactly behind them i can barly get ANY tool in there to even try to get the bolts out but the little i can get a tool onto these bolts it's just NOT grabbing and its so seized the vehicle cant move 😢 do you have any tips for these bolts on the back of the hub? I had to heat up the 12 point cv nut for 10 minutes then take a candle and melt it on there. Wait 5 minutes then i gave it my every bit of strength with a 5ft breaker bar with a 3 ft extension to get the one nut free. Idk what to do at this point. It's been a week, and i just now got this 1 bolt off 😢. All of this because i took my baby to a piece of shit disingenuous "mechanic" when i had not even time to shower and never checked. Never ever again will anyone ever touch my vehicles but me. I paid over $400 to have the front 2 hubs done and they were never even touched. 😔if you get back to me i would appreciate it so much if not ill be bustin my ass trying to save my truck today. After a nap. 😮💨
I used regular hose claps when I replaced my CV Boot. That way I can reuse them over again, if needed
Does it work ok?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, it works great. I even did this to my brother's car, and he loved the ideal. I did my sister's Van about 3 years ago and she still driving it.
I did enjoy your video thou. And thank you so much for sharing with us all.
@@freebird11000 you're welcome!
Hopefully you did clean the old grease out good.
As best I could!
When encouraging the bolts out please leave the nut on level with the end of the thread of the bolt this way you don’t damage the thread if bolt is very tight.
What do you. Do when they don’t make the boot or replacement cv axle?
Perhaps find a good second hand unit at the wreckers?
Awesome video, one of the most detailed videos on axle removal and boot replacement.
Thank you for your help. 👍🏾👍🏾
Glad to help!
....Now do one where the CV does NOT come of the shaft....get back to me when you sus out how to do it LOL....i'll wait....
Is the joint the same as a front drive propshat boot?
Yes!
Good work brother Brown, soon there'll be no mechanics with easy fixes any way man 👍
Haha, thanks!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing if you fit a front diff drop to the 2013 hilux would that he extra hard on your cv boots ?
@@shaneboyce9392 no, easier on both the CVs and the boots.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing just looks a very sharp angle on drivers side near the small clip that holds boot on . That video you did what year hilux was that ? Some cv specialists quoted $300 to supply and fit 4 new boots ,what's ya thoughts on that price?
Awesome video mate! I’m going to attempt this on the weekend. Silly question perhaps was that a rubber mallet when needing encouragement on the disc? Do you ever use a dead blow?
That was a rubber mallet, but you could use a rubber faced dead blow as well.
The Hose Clip holding tabs wings is too weak as compared to the original one. 😢😢😢
They're still working fine!
Great job! Thanks for showing me how to replace a boot...
You're welcome!
If the drive shaft and hub are tightly joined, any idea to move that?
You could try freezing the drive shaft using a can of upside down air duster.
what’s the cost difference? Replacement vs rebooting?
Longevity?
That'll be highly dependent on the model and availability. If you're using an OEM boot, there's no reason why it shouldn't last as long as the original. Though with some models, it'll be cheaper just to replace the whole shaft.
Great video. That clamp looks awesome and makes the job easier. Seems like this is a Nissan Sentra?
Kia i30 in OZ
Best car video we ever seen.
Thanks!
Okay so, you're in Australia and I am in the USA, do I have to do this upside down for it to work properly 😉 Lol, great video. I knew how to do this but needed a refreshener to make sure I remembered correctly, great video.
Hahahaha, I think the only difference is the water turns in the opposite way when we flush the toilet! :)
You can also use appropriate width Ty-Wraps to hold your CV boots on.
Not sure they're as good as the proper metal bindings.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Maybe, but I have found them as OEM fitment on some older cars. They seem to be able to handle the job, after all, there is little structural load.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing
when I saw that clamp tightener, it clicked a memory of my water truck days. I had what was called a "bandit" tool and I've been scratching my head trying to remember what the hell I did with it" it was awesome for clamping up 3 inch hose connections without having the "snaggy" clamps that always seemed to get caught on everything.
Tie wraps are plastic that have a property called creep , stretching under constant tension. They also expand and shrink under extreme temperatures. The metal ties are supplied with the boots which do not creep and a lot more temp. Resistant.
Great video !
Always use Original part when come to replace Belts and CV Boots from the Dealer !
If they are available, that's a great way to go!
How do you use the screw driver & pliers to tighten the band. I can’t figure it out!
You had to ur that tie rod tool to pop tie rod out how did you get it back in?
Just screwing down the castle nut will engage the taper.
You dont need that tool. Give the surrounding part of the hub a few taps and will fall out. Trying to make you buy unnecessary tools. When putting back in lower on to axle stand.. the weight will stop the joint from spinning
If you hit it a bit too hard, you can cause the taper to go out of round, leading to the taper locking system being no longer effective, ask me how I know.......
So much easier to purchase the axle, pull out and shove in the next completely assembled axle. Its a little extra but much faster. However, good video sir.
Depends on availability and price.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing
They are pretty cheap buddy. Not worth the extra hassle. Slip out and slip in the new assembled one. Ive done it.
THIS IS HACK BUT I DID THIS ON A BONEVILLE CRASHER TO FIX A RIPPED BOOT, ALL YOU NEED IS DUCT TAPE AND AXLE GREASE. JACK THE CAR OR TRUCK UP SO THE TIRE SPINS FREELY, PUT AXLE GREASE INTO THE BOOT THROUGH THE TEAR IN THE BOOT, CLEAN THE DIRT OFF THE BOOT AND WRAP DUCT TAPE AROUND THE BOOT AS YOU SPIN THE TIRE, THATS IT, YOURE DONE 👍 THE CV JOINT CLICKING WENT AWAY ALSO.
How long did it last?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing until I got rid of the car about a year or so later and it was still ok 👍
@@herdHistruth Awesome 😎
@@LockyourHubs4WDing thanks
My driver side CV axle just went last night, it's been limping on its last leg for the last 2mos, both went out at the same time, got the passenger side done, and it was a 4day job, last night on my way home from picking up my wife, the driver side decided to go. Now I have to replace the axle, or I may just buy the boot replacement kit. I really wouldn't want to have to go through that repair again.
Its mich easier to replace the whole axle than deal with the boot
It is! If they're available.
Hi mate is the process the same on my 99 hilux with manual locking hubs? I watched a video where a bloke replaced his cv without taking the hub or brakes off but didn’t make as much sense as your video
It'll be very similar, just like a solid front, they're all very similar as well.
If I repaired my outer boot like this will it stop my wheel from wobbling.
Probably not! That sounds like a different issue.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing no I compared the 2 boots drivers side good. Passenger all busted up and with the wheel off I can move the axle a bit.the tire is bald as can be and maybe wheel hub?