For those asking how many cans of paint are necessary, it depends on the amount of dissolved solids in the mix and what color you are trying to cover. IOW, changing color from white to yellow wont need as much paint (# of coats) to cover as white over black, where you may need 3 coats to have it look even. Also, cheap brands don't cover well (less dissolved solids) so may need more coats. I did the roof of a small van that was roughly 5 ft by 12 ft with 7 cans in 2 heavy coats. That's roughly 60 sq ft so 9 sq ft per can. The down side to using spray bombs is moving fast enough to keep a wet edge and avoiding "spattering" as the can reaches empty while you are holding the can on an angle, which is what you need to do on a roof or hood. Save the partial cans for the side of the vehicle where you can hold them upright and quickly move to a fresh can for that roof or hood. Matter of fact, pre-shake all of your cans in advance (at least a full minute each) to avoid dry edges while you work. Also, shake each can for a few seconds after every 30 seconds of spraying. You will thank me later.
If you are going to attempt this make sure you get a clear coat that is specifically for spot work. Regular 2k clear only adheres to a basecoat that hasn't cured yet. The spot clear is more forgiving about adhering to surfaces.
I can't tell which is for spot work? I am looking at the different products on Amazon and it is not clear. My car does not have clear coat damage per se but it has some paint from an old sign that was removed and I would like to lightly sand it and recoat it. It is an old van, without a lot of value, so I won't pay to have a professional repaint it.
@@amysiciliani6517 you may benefit from just using a compound and then follow it up with a polish. if it is a small area you could even do it by hand no problem. Best of luck
I painted my 1996 Camry about three years ago, using the knowledge I gained from your videos. It was a lot of work and I had to repaint a few areas, but the results were impressive. For grins, I painted the top of the car black, while the rest of the car is the original green. Sadly, I'm starting to get some clearcoat peel on top near the windshield, so thought I would refresh my memory on how to repair. I have a feeling, though, that to make it look as good as it did before, I'll have to sand the whole top before applying clearcoat. Oh well......it's worth it when you do it right. You make great videos. I've watched several of yours and you always entertain as well as inform.
So my take away from this set of videos is that if the clear coat is just oxidized you can scuff and shoot new clear and it'll look halfway decent, but if the clear has started peeling you'll need to repaint and blend those areas. It would be interesting to see what happens if you would scuff half that hood with 1500, put down three layers of color and then clear over that, since the new base coat could bond directly to the old base coat without needing another layer of primer I would think ( not that I actually know anything, it's just a guess ).
Another neat thing to note is that if your car has plastic headlights (like this one), they spray clear coat on the lenses too, that is why they don't turn yellow. The reason they DO turn yellow is because the clear coat has failed and is no longer protecting the plastic. the 2K clear he uses here is great for resealing your lenses after you clean them up and I have even used it on new knockoff lenses because they don't use clear coat to keep prices down.
A wonderful experiment; in my observation, the outcome was dependent on one major issue: For this metallic green paint, the paint faded two-shades in the portion where the clear-coat was missing for the last few years; this worked very well on on an earlier video that you did with a black car; oddly enough, black paint holds up pretty well these days. Your clear-coat restoration on that black car worked out a lot better. I was happy to see that (because my car is black with flaking clearcoat on the hardtop); thanks so much for teaching us about the 2k clearcoat, too, I had no idea that I could buy that - this will help me improve the appearance of my 30year old car that I care very much about, but I cannot afford a paint job on it; this car is not clear-coated, but it is a convertible with a fiberglass hard top, and the hard top got a clear coat, as did the mirrors and bumpers (Mazda, early nineties, urethane). I think I know how to restore the hardtop now, thanks to you: wet-sanding an feathering the worn clear-coat, and then clear-coating with the 2k for a short-term fix which I will cross my fingers for as well as including prayer / pure-polish / & wax (1992 NA Miata 'brilliant black' paint)
Good tips.. I would just say, don’t use your favorite car wash soap.. some car wash soaps contain waxes which will fight against the clear coat adhesion. I’d recommend using dishwashing soap which is designed to cut wax and grease, where some car washes may add some wax.. not all do, but some definitely do.
I learned how to do it managing a box truck fleet painting bumpers and side rails from all the paint marks and scuffs from the drivers hitting things. I got to be pretty good with rattle cans. Both the auto paint cans and the cheap rustoleum white cans from home Depot. It wasn't worth wasting expensive paint work on the bumpers and rails when I could hit it with the rustoleum to cover any marks.
The more I see you do, the more I trust you, I have had some paint issues with my Black on Black Nissan Maxima, and some of the things I have picked up from you have not only helped, but I have learned not to be so picky with my first applications and so forth, good stuff please keep it coming. Harley!
Going to check this out. Really hope it works. Walked out today, after 2 days of very heavy rain, and found TWO large water bubbles on the side of my truck. All because the 20+ year old clear coat had flaked some and now holding rain water.
I am learning so much from your channel, having just come across it. Last weekend I fixed the clearcoat using 2k on my Saab and it looks great. I watched the video 4 x to make sure I got it right. Thanks so much!
@@DonQuixote1889 Hi Don, I did it exactly as he said in the video. I also used the clear coat, respirator, and other items he recommended. Be sure to tape/plastic areas off that don't need a clear coat because it will go everywhere! Watch his video as many times until you are comfortable with the steps given. Stop after you sand and watch it again! If there are chips you need to repair first, make sure you have your paint on hand to do that. I found someone on Amazon who made the exact match (Arctic white) for my Saab. By the way, when I sold it last year, my clear coat was still perfect, even after sitting through one snowy Midwest winter and then 2 years in the California sun. Good luck and just follow his instructions and your Saab will look great.
Thank you a ton for this video. We are buying a motorhome with great bones and an awesome engine, but the Arizona sun has done a number on the exterior. I'm excited to use your advice. I have a feeling it's going to make a huge difference.
For a better test I would be trying to blend the undulations. The biggest problem is how the light hits the different highs and lows. If you sand the new and old clear after this project to remove highs, then clear again you may get a good result. This is what I'm gonna attempt.
I think you have a great learning advice for all us, I know we have very experienced people that will all ways have negative views, keep up the good work
A buddy and I repainted my '97 Honda delSol, taking it back to it's original white from a really horrible yellow the previous owner had it resprayed in. When it came to clearcoating, it took about 12 cans to do an even 2 coats on the whole car. It looked fantastic when it was done. The clearcoat lasted about 2 years in the Southern California sun before it started to flake again and now is coming off in sheets... So when the video's creator said these aren't long-term repairs, he wasn't joking.
"Now it is true that if you use a sponge and you go hard enough you can put scratches in your clear coat... but there is no clear coat on this car" LOL
a couple of coats of base color helps a lot , I did the hood and roof of my 22 year old Ford AU2 XLS Ute , it had real bad faded / chipped clear coat . I used 2 400Ml cans of base coat and I 1/2 cans approximately acryllic clear coat , it turned out bloody awesome :)
@@daviddale2570 that all depends on how you treat it , I mean if it's left out in the weather it will deteriorate at the same rate as the factory clear . I did the job on my ute a year ago and it still looks mint
1:52 Further more: the choice for which depends on a number of factors, but it can generally be chalked up to this: self etching is easier. It includes an acid to "pit" the metal so the primer has something to "bite" in to. BUT, self etching isn't water proof and the surface must be REALLY clean (oils, greases and waxes can block the etch and prevent a solid bond of the primer). If you have high moisture, epoxy is better as it "traps" the micro rust starting to form on the metal. The rusting process can be stopped IF you can prevent air or moister from getting in. But epoxy doesn't have the same self-leveling properties and it's bond is more like it forms a shell rather then bonding with the metal.
Maybe a 600 grit wet sand of the oxidized base coat would even out the discoloration on the hood? And also sand off the fender clear coat to match it with the hood, wiping water over it to check the match. You could also spray paint the hood matt black to make it look like an upgraded hood.
It’s clearly an improvement, that’s quite clear. Thanks for the info, I have a friend with a 2005 Honda Civic that looks good except for loss of clearcoat on the roof rails and trunk lid, and I think we can greatly improve its appearance.
Can you let me know if this works out for you? I have parts of my clear coat on my dodge I’d like to clean up due to the clear coat that’s peeling off and been damaged
The front area got a better finish due to your speed difference in spraying. The rear portion you moved much faster on which caused the orange peel effect.
Why does it seem that manufacturers are selling cars with very weak, non-durable, clear coats these days? I often see fairly late model cars with faded,and patchy bonnets and roofs. They’re ripping us off. Thanks for your video. It’s was very helpful.
I did all 4 wheels (both sides) this year: (< 50% humidity, temperature ~ 70°F) - Remove center caps, remove tar etc., thoroughly wash, repair dings with Bondo, wet sand, wash again, 1 coat self-etching primer, wet sand, wash again, mask off the tire and valve, 1st. basecoat (vary the pattern), 2000 grit wet sand, 2nd. basecoat (vary the pattern), 2000 grit wet sand, 3rd. basecoat (vary the pattern), inspect and let dry ~ 12hrs, inspect, apply 3 clear coats (various patterns, 15mins in between), then Dupont ChromaSystem Blender and let dry for 48+ hrs. Use THIS time to 'spruce up' (wash + wax) the brake calipers, hub, etc. Touch up the lug nuts too! Gently remove all masking tape, newspaper etc. Install all 4 wheels. Boy do they look great! Saved myself about US$900. it's now September, they still look great, and I smile every time I approach the car.
Thank you for these videos... I'm a complete rookie (I didn't even know clear coat or ceramic coatings or any of that even existed until August of this year). I'm now inspired to restore my dad's (he passed 14 years ago) old '88 F250 next summer and this is the kind of info I'm going to need, so I'm very thankful. I have a question... I've read in many places that the One K (or whatever) clear coat by KBS is as good as the 2K versions like the one in this video. I would like your thoughts on that if you don't mind.
Sad to hear about your dad... The way I understand 2k clear coat it needs to have a activator at the bottom of can to mix the hardener.. ceramic coating is awesome I done it to my Mercedes 2 days ago, turned out really nice... Also before you spray paint it's good to use a wax and grease remover, or a ipa solution spray.
I totally agree Dawn works great. But right before you paint, (let say a hood) you use lint-free blue paper towels and Spray Way foaming window cleaner then spray 1/3 to 1/2 the hood wait 30-45 seconds using one blue towel wiping one direction and trash towel get another towel from the roll and repeat until all Spray Way is removed. Doing this almost deleted fish-eyes from my projects and of course always color sand and polish your project . Your end result is when asked, Where did you get it painted? NOT, it looks like you painted that. Good luck, take your time use automotive paint don't cut corners and you'll be proud of your project when its done.
@@Freightshaker69 what I did was peel the clear coat up around the spots where it originally was damaged and once that was complete I put painters plastics about 1 foot around the spot where there was missing clear coat so it would blend better
what would have been cool is if you had worked on one of the 3 panels and did a color restore by de-oxidizing the paint color. Then it might have matched the side panel a bit better. It would have been great to see that since we got to see it with none of the base coat de-oxidized.
Its crazy the difference it makes. That's the same product we use at my shop. But you really could even that transition out much better than that!! But that's not the video was about! Simply spraying a clear coat! I got it now:)!
I would have wet sanded down the broken clearcoat till it made a smooth horizon. Your uncleared section would have been more dramatic if you didn't sand it earlier. A very good demo video.
Great Video for Florida car owners. Please explain how long these finishes last and how do they compare to body shop applications. Thank You for your insightful videos.
I've seen that product, where you mix the 2 parts inside the aerosol can.... always wondered if it worked, or if it was just a scam.... It was very interesting to see you use it. Thanks very much. I enjoy your videos. Ugh, that car was so bad... Hopefully none of your viewers is going to try to re-clear a total basket case like that one....
Thank goodness I found this video of yours! My car is almost as bad as this but can't afford to junkyard it. I can hardly wait to see what can be achieved by DIY done the More Proper Way in your next instalment!!!
My car is about as bad as this on some spots but I'm never going to take it to the junkyard lol, the engine could blow and i'll just replace it(the engine) with a better one.
I did this to repair paint on my 1995 acura integra. just be aware, even if you prepare and apply base coat before, expect it to last only 2 to 4 years before peeling off again. If you apply a very thick amount and use a professional paint booth with ideal air conditions and give it time to cure, it might last longer. I did mine outside.
Can you show us how to sand/blend more into the old clear coat? Seems like you just sprayed over the old clear coat and you can tell where it was peeling
the fine steel wool soap pads You can buy a box from the supermarket use with plain water . Works brilliantly to remove paint oxidation. As long as you rub evenly and have not rubed through the base coat. Then apply clearcoat as the man says.
I want to also add my thank you's to to sir! You inspired me to do a small clear coat restoration on my Prius, the clear coat turned out well, It does need a bit of polishing, that I will do in about a week or so. Thanks again!
I watched this and thought "this is a helpful little vid" and expected to see like 300 views, then I looked at the view count *2,139,109* lmao, good job man.
@@darrellstillsjr7784 a blind man can see this isn't how to do it properly. HOWEVER, if you own some hooptie like this Camry, I see nothing wrong with making it look better for what....less than $20?
If you want to remove old clearcoat to the point where it is still well attached, I use wide masking or packing tape. Apply to the old clear coat along the peel line and smooth it firmly. Pull off slowly and the old clearcoat will come with it. This has to be done carefully to avoid pulling any of the base coat with it. If you have stubborn old clear, duck tape is also an option, with a stronger pulling force that will remove the old clear cleanly. You can then re-clear the base coat or simply polish the base coat. but that doesn't usually work well with metallic base coat paints. It is very difficult to re-clear a metallic or pearl base coat.
Ratchets please will you make a video on the use of body filler, but more especially, the usage of body filler to keep/maintain/restore body lines (after body damage). I feel that it will complement as well as add completion to your video series on spray painting and restoration. Thanks
When painting with a 20.00 spray can from an automotive paint retail/wholesale store color matched and made while you wait this type of paint has so much more UV protection and when applying it lays down so much better, lasts 3 times longer than any off the shelf hardware store paint. Good luck.
WaitWeight With the way this customer maintains their paint (not at all from the noted damage to clear coat) i would be shocked if any clear coat made it past 3-5 years. Nobody can really give you a solid answer without extensive UV testing and after that applying data to your given environment and your preventative maintenance routine. For example, any products useful life will be dramatically decreased being in Arizona vs Wyoming. So unless you speak to the chemist who has the testing data, your guess is as good as mine. Best of luck
1 year from experience because even if you do a good job on the part that is already peeled the old clear coat that you blend will continue to peel underneath. Once clear coat begins peeling you will need to remove the entire clear coat from the panel.
Before spraying clear coat I use a product called "Klean-Strip Bulldog Abrasive Prep and Clean" on the scuff pad. That way we don't have to wash it first and the sanding comes out pretty consistent allowing the clear coat to lay down really nice.
You saved me from spending $$ on a new paint job when all I need to do is this because it looks amazing when it’s wet. I do have a couple of questions for ya. Where did you purchase these clear coat spray cans? Also, what is your solution for small spots of the original clear coat that is not flaking, but rough? Kinda like small rough circles.
Julian McAlister he has another video on clear coat blending. Pretty simple just sand the “circle” spots just don’t hit base coat. Then blend sand around the area preferably wet sand. Clean really well wash the car let it dry and spray clear on the whole piece
With damage like that.. And since I would be doing the whole hood, or car for that matter, why not give it a couple coats of paint first? To me, if it is worth it for me to take the time for the clear coat, might as well paint it... I have a 1989 Celica GT that has this exact problem...
If that 1995 Camry is running drivable condition, then it's worth way more. $1000 at least. They don''t make cars the way they use to. New cars are now disposal cars with all electronic doo-dads that can't be repaired.
This will get you there, but ideally, you're going to use an air compressor and spray gun. You don't even need anything crazy, you can get by with a 20 gallon compressor, perhaps even a little smaller (just do one panel at a time) and I still use the cheap purple spray guns from harbor freight that are like $15 and I get excellent results. Just painted a bumper and fender on my vehicle and you wouldn't be able to tell a difference in the paint. But the wet sanding and buffing process is where the real magic happens.
the side you washed was a major difference by itself. Thanks for the video. I have some painting in my future and I have less experience than a novice and you did help.
I love all your videos, they are extremely helpful. You are doung an amazing job and as a automobile enthusiast I like to do things myself and your expert advise really helps
I had this problem on my car roof, I took it all back to metal, primed it, then Base coat and clear coat that's the only way to do it right, don't use rattle cans because they can't provide the volume of paint and spray angle you need to get a quick even coat, good old compressor and spray gun joby especially for large panels like roof and bonet or hood as you guys call it.
The clear needs something to adhere to, compounding and polishing would do the opposite of what is required, which is making something to adhere to (scuffing the surface).
this is a very nice way to show what to expect, thank you for doing this, i've got a 600 bmw with faded hood, roof, and deck lid, top of bumpers, and with this method the overall cost probably under 100 and overall look i'd say 100 % better, not perfect but considering 30 year old car, for 600 that runs great, a little more consistant finish from sides to top will be appreciated by almost all that look. again thank you. please is just the 1 step scuffing and ten clear enough? and what grade sanding or scuffing?
Tony Lloyd i agree. Afterall he only had to feather a very small area on 1 out of 3 rows. Makes me question that scotch brite if he cant even feather with it
For those asking how many cans of paint are necessary, it depends on the amount of dissolved solids in the mix and what color you are trying to cover. IOW, changing color from white to yellow wont need as much paint (# of coats) to cover as white over black, where you may need 3 coats to have it look even. Also, cheap brands don't cover well (less dissolved solids) so may need more coats. I did the roof of a small van that was roughly 5 ft by 12 ft with 7 cans in 2 heavy coats. That's roughly 60 sq ft so 9 sq ft per can. The down side to using spray bombs is moving fast enough to keep a wet edge and avoiding "spattering" as the can reaches empty while you are holding the can on an angle, which is what you need to do on a roof or hood. Save the partial cans for the side of the vehicle where you can hold them upright and quickly move to a fresh can for that roof or hood. Matter of fact, pre-shake all of your cans in advance (at least a full minute each) to avoid dry edges while you work. Also, shake each can for a few seconds after every 30 seconds of spraying. You will thank me later.
🎉🎉🎉😢🎉
If you are going to attempt this make sure you get a clear coat that is specifically for spot work. Regular 2k clear only adheres to a basecoat that hasn't cured yet. The spot clear is more forgiving about adhering to surfaces.
I can't tell which is for spot work? I am looking at the different products on Amazon and it is not clear. My car does not have clear coat damage per se but it has some paint from an old sign that was removed and I would like to lightly sand it and recoat it. It is an old van, without a lot of value, so I won't pay to have a professional repaint it.
@@amysiciliani6517 you may benefit from just using a compound and then follow it up with a polish. if it is a small area you could even do it by hand no problem. Best of luck
I painted my 1996 Camry about three years ago, using the knowledge I gained from your videos. It was a lot of work and I had to repaint a few areas, but the results were impressive. For grins, I painted the top of the car black, while the rest of the car is the original green. Sadly, I'm starting to get some clearcoat peel on top near the windshield, so thought I would refresh my memory on how to repair. I have a feeling, though, that to make it look as good as it did before, I'll have to sand the whole top before applying clearcoat. Oh well......it's worth it when you do it right. You make great videos. I've watched several of yours and you always entertain as well as inform.
Did you protect your paint with waxes or protectants?
10:00
I'd consider it more artistic than anything else. It's clearly a cityscape with a green, starry night.
Artistic*
@@xhoustonkingx6212 J jh
@@xhoustonkingx6212 J j
So my take away from this set of videos is that if the clear coat is just oxidized you can scuff and shoot new clear and it'll look halfway decent, but if the clear has started peeling you'll need to repaint and blend those areas. It would be interesting to see what happens if you would scuff half that hood with 1500, put down three layers of color and then clear over that, since the new base coat could bond directly to the old base coat without needing another layer of primer I would think ( not that I actually know anything, it's just a guess ).
Another neat thing to note is that if your car has plastic headlights (like this one), they spray clear coat on the lenses too, that is why they don't turn yellow. The reason they DO turn yellow is because the clear coat has failed and is no longer protecting the plastic. the 2K clear he uses here is great for resealing your lenses after you clean them up and I have even used it on new knockoff lenses because they don't use clear coat to keep prices down.
Yes - I sanded then 2k clear coated my lenses 7 years ago after they were badly oxidized. They look brand new now & I'm very happy I used this method.
A wonderful experiment; in my observation, the outcome was dependent on one major issue: For this metallic green paint, the paint faded two-shades in the portion where the clear-coat was missing for the last few years; this worked very well on on an earlier video that you did with a black car; oddly enough, black paint holds up pretty well these days. Your clear-coat restoration on that black car worked out a lot better. I was happy to see that (because my car is black with flaking clearcoat on the hardtop); thanks so much for teaching us about the 2k clearcoat, too, I had no idea that I could buy that - this will help me improve the appearance of my 30year old car that I care very much about, but I cannot afford a paint job on it; this car is not clear-coated, but it is a convertible with a fiberglass hard top, and the hard top got a clear coat, as did the mirrors and bumpers (Mazda, early nineties, urethane). I think I know how to restore the hardtop now, thanks to you: wet-sanding an feathering the worn clear-coat, and then clear-coating with the 2k for a short-term fix which I will cross my fingers for as well as including prayer / pure-polish / & wax (1992 NA Miata 'brilliant black' paint)
did you ever do the clear coat on your Mazda?
Good tips.. I would just say, don’t use your favorite car wash soap.. some car wash soaps contain waxes which will fight against the clear coat adhesion. I’d recommend using dishwashing soap which is designed to cut wax and grease, where some car washes may add some wax.. not all do, but some definitely do.
Yup, Dawn 4x
Take a drink for every time he says clear coat.
I can't pour the shots that quick
You'll be on the floor before he's done ✔🤣😂😌🤧
I gat me a 48 pack of beers too cacth up
🤣🤣🤣🍺🍺
I believe he outdid the number of times he used that word versus the movie Scarface and their use of the F word...
sometimes his delivery is just so funny. its like this awkward deadpan thing idk.
I agree with this technique, I did this with my whole car like 4 years ago, and it still looks nice.
Hey Manuel, how is it looking today?
@@skelthouser2730 hi. It looks good, not like brand new, but in decent shape.
Thanks, Ratchets. Fascinating experiment. No such thing as failure when you've got an old car to practice on, so thanks for sharing the learning.
I learned how to do it managing a box truck fleet painting bumpers and side rails from all the paint marks and scuffs from the drivers hitting things. I got to be pretty good with rattle cans. Both the auto paint cans and the cheap rustoleum white cans from home Depot. It wasn't worth wasting expensive paint work on the bumpers and rails when I could hit it with the rustoleum to cover any marks.
The more I see you do, the more I trust you, I have had some paint issues with my Black on Black Nissan Maxima, and some of the things I have picked up from you have not only helped, but I have learned not to be so picky with my first applications and so forth, good stuff please keep it coming. Harley!
Going to check this out.
Really hope it works.
Walked out today, after 2 days of very heavy rain, and found TWO large water bubbles on the side of my truck. All because the 20+ year old clear coat had flaked some and now holding rain water.
I am learning so much from your channel, having just come across it. Last weekend I fixed the clearcoat using 2k on my Saab and it looks great. I watched the video 4 x to make sure I got it right. Thanks so much!
Hi, I'm trying to do this also on my saab.. mind sharing the steps and what items you used ?
@@DonQuixote1889 Hi Don, I did it exactly as he said in the video. I also used the clear coat, respirator, and other items he recommended. Be sure to tape/plastic areas off that don't need a clear coat because it will go everywhere!
Watch his video as many times until you are comfortable with the steps given. Stop after you sand and watch it again! If there are chips you need to repair first, make sure you have your paint on hand to do that. I found someone on Amazon who made the exact match (Arctic white) for my Saab.
By the way, when I sold it last year, my clear coat was still perfect, even after sitting through one snowy Midwest winter and then 2 years in the California sun. Good luck and just follow his instructions and your Saab will look great.
Thank you a ton for this video. We are buying a motorhome with great bones and an awesome engine, but the Arizona sun has done a number on the exterior. I'm excited to use your advice. I have a feeling it's going to make a huge difference.
For a better test I would be trying to blend the undulations. The biggest problem is how the light hits the different highs and lows. If you sand the new and old clear after this project to remove highs, then clear again you may get a good result. This is what I'm gonna attempt.
im gonna do the same thing
How'd it work?
Very nice results .. paint may not be as dark as it orginally was with just the clear coat alone but it looks like a new car awesome job
Use dish washing soap before painting. Most car wash soaps have wax in them and can cause the new clear coat to react leaving fish-eyes.
That’s why you hit it with a wax a grease remover after...
Or you could just wash it with a deagreaser and then wipedown with isoproplyl alcohol after that.
Ben Batchelor t
Good point but this guy is a butcher....wth was i thinking clicking this lol
yes.. never use DIY soaps with flashy names on them, lol just use Dawn dish soap...
I think you have a great learning advice for all us, I know we have very experienced people that will all ways have negative views, keep up the good work
i think it turned out great, compared to what it was before. great job.
A buddy and I repainted my '97 Honda delSol, taking it back to it's original white from a really horrible yellow the previous owner had it resprayed in. When it came to clearcoating, it took about 12 cans to do an even 2 coats on the whole car. It looked fantastic when it was done. The clearcoat lasted about 2 years in the Southern California sun before it started to flake again and now is coming off in sheets...
So when the video's creator said these aren't long-term repairs, he wasn't joking.
"Now it is true that if you use a sponge and you go hard enough you can put scratches in your clear coat... but there is no clear coat on this car" LOL
It was just a general tip as was the whole video don't be so picky.
@@mikehopkins4040 what are you talking about? I wasn’t being critical, I found it funny. That’s not being picky.
I just discovered my 2002 Accord has clear coat peeling on the plastic body parts like the bumpers. This information is exactly what I need. Thanks!
3:15 I love his reaction to the car not having the clear coat on the hood haha
MLMoto hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!! I can’t stop laughing.
😆😆😆
a couple of coats of base color helps a lot , I did the hood and roof of my 22 year old Ford AU2 XLS Ute , it had real bad faded / chipped clear coat . I used 2 400Ml cans of base coat and I 1/2 cans approximately acryllic clear coat , it turned out bloody awesome :)
How long do those spray cans of clear coat last on the vehicle?
@@daviddale2570 that all depends on how you treat it , I mean if it's left out in the weather it will deteriorate at the same rate as the factory clear . I did the job on my ute a year ago and it still looks mint
G'day. Where did you get the clear coat, and what brand did you use? Cheers.
@@johnellison3030 SuperCheap Auto , used their brand , SCA acryllic clear coat
@@aussieaeromodeler Thanks for the reply. Do you know what it's like compared to the Colorspec brand. That's what I bought. Cheers mate.
I LOVE that; "The advantage of having a crappy car I guess."
LMAO! That's true ! Very very true!
1:52 Further more: the choice for which depends on a number of factors, but it can generally be chalked up to this: self etching is easier. It includes an acid to "pit" the metal so the primer has something to "bite" in to. BUT, self etching isn't water proof and the surface must be REALLY clean (oils, greases and waxes can block the etch and prevent a solid bond of the primer). If you have high moisture, epoxy is better as it "traps" the micro rust starting to form on the metal. The rusting process can be stopped IF you can prevent air or moister from getting in. But epoxy doesn't have the same self-leveling properties and it's bond is more like it forms a shell rather then bonding with the metal.
Maybe a 600 grit wet sand of the oxidized base coat would even out the discoloration on the hood? And also sand off the fender clear coat to match it with the hood, wiping water over it to check the match. You could also spray paint the hood matt black to make it look like an upgraded hood.
It’s clearly an improvement, that’s quite clear. Thanks for the info, I have a friend with a 2005 Honda Civic that looks good except for loss of clearcoat on the roof rails and trunk lid, and I think we can greatly improve its appearance.
Can you let me know if this works out for you? I have parts of my clear coat on my dodge I’d like to clean up due to the clear coat that’s peeling off and been damaged
@@summermoseley7884 me too
The front area got a better finish due to your speed difference in spraying. The rear portion you moved much faster on which caused the orange peel effect.
Thank you for this! This was a really good example of what it looks like when you do the comparison of clear coat and no clear coat
I agree Dawn is the best! I've used cheaper off brands and it does not seem to do the same job....thanks for the post!!
Dawn strips clear coat.
I did this about 2 years ago and the spots on the car I did still look great! I followed this video when I did it!
Best part of this video "Luke I'm your moms baby daddy". That's funny as hell!💯😂
Why does it seem that manufacturers are selling cars with very weak, non-durable, clear coats these days? I often see fairly late model cars with faded,and patchy bonnets and roofs.
They’re ripping us off.
Thanks for your video. It’s was very helpful.
I really appreciate the extent you go to to make a video. Your one of the best.
@@MrRusell86 I would have responded directly to your channel but you have "no content".
I did all 4 wheels (both sides) this year: (< 50% humidity, temperature ~ 70°F) -
Remove center caps, remove tar etc., thoroughly wash, repair dings with Bondo, wet sand, wash again, 1 coat self-etching primer, wet sand, wash again, mask off the tire and valve, 1st. basecoat (vary the pattern), 2000 grit wet sand, 2nd. basecoat (vary the pattern), 2000 grit wet sand, 3rd. basecoat (vary the pattern), inspect and let dry ~ 12hrs, inspect, apply 3 clear coats (various patterns, 15mins in between), then Dupont ChromaSystem Blender and let dry for 48+ hrs.
Use THIS time to 'spruce up' (wash + wax) the brake calipers, hub, etc.
Touch up the lug nuts too!
Gently remove all masking tape, newspaper etc.
Install all 4 wheels.
Boy do they look great!
Saved myself about US$900.
it's now September, they still look great, and I smile every time I approach the car.
Touchin' up them lug nuts 😉
Thank you for these videos... I'm a complete rookie (I didn't even know clear coat or ceramic coatings or any of that even existed until August of this year). I'm now inspired to restore my dad's (he passed 14 years ago) old '88 F250 next summer and this is the kind of info I'm going to need, so I'm very thankful.
I have a question... I've read in many places that the One K (or whatever) clear coat by KBS is as good as the 2K versions like the one in this video. I would like your thoughts on that if you don't mind.
Sad to hear about your dad... The way I understand 2k clear coat it needs to have a activator at the bottom of can to mix the hardener.. ceramic coating is awesome I done it to my Mercedes 2 days ago, turned out really nice... Also before you spray paint it's good to use a wax and grease remover, or a ipa solution spray.
I totally agree Dawn works great. But right before you paint, (let say a hood) you use lint-free blue paper towels and Spray Way foaming window cleaner then spray 1/3 to 1/2 the hood wait 30-45 seconds using one blue towel wiping one direction and trash towel get another towel from the roll and repeat until all Spray Way is removed. Doing this almost deleted fish-eyes from my projects and of course always color sand and polish your project . Your end result is when asked, Where did you get it painted? NOT, it looks like you painted that. Good luck, take your time use automotive paint don't cut corners and you'll be proud of your project when its done.
I just fixed the clear coat on my roof. Thanks for sharing!
Is it still on there?
Yes! It’s held up very well
My car roof has certain spots with clear coat fades should I spray the whole roof or just the spots where it faded?
@@Freightshaker69 what I did was peel the clear coat up around the spots where it originally was damaged and once that was complete I put painters plastics about 1 foot around the spot where there was missing clear coat so it would blend better
Cool, i just clearcoated my old snowmobile to get som gloss and shine to it, and it turned out great 👍
what would have been cool is if you had worked on one of the 3 panels and did a color restore by de-oxidizing the paint color. Then it might have matched the side panel a bit better. It would have been great to see that since we got to see it with none of the base coat de-oxidized.
If anyone is wondering the term “clear coat” was said 6,731 times.
“Luke, I’m your Mom’s baby daddy” 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I like the finished product. It's kinda like when guitar manufacturers make a new relic guitar but then clear in the patina.
Good job. Thank you for your honest portrayal of results that could be expected.
Its crazy the difference it makes. That's the same product we use at my shop. But you really could even that transition out much better than that!! But that's not the video was about! Simply spraying a clear coat! I got it now:)!
"Luke I'm your moms baby daddy"! lol that part killed me😂
lmaoo same
🤣🤣🤣 that shittt was Hilarious
😂😂😂👌🏾
Did it really?
I would have wet sanded down the broken clearcoat till it made a smooth horizon. Your uncleared section would have been more dramatic if you didn't sand it earlier. A very good demo video.
Great Video for Florida car owners. Please explain how long these finishes last and how do they compare to body shop applications. Thank You for your insightful videos.
I've seen that product, where you mix the 2 parts inside the aerosol can.... always wondered if it worked, or if it was just a scam.... It was very interesting to see you use it. Thanks very much. I enjoy your videos. Ugh, that car was so bad... Hopefully none of your viewers is going to try to re-clear a total basket case like that one....
Patrick Morrissey for 40$ a can, it better works
Thank goodness I found this video of yours! My car is almost as bad as this but can't afford to junkyard it.
I can hardly wait to see what can be achieved by DIY done the More Proper Way in your next instalment!!!
My car is about as bad as this on some spots but I'm never going to take it to the junkyard lol, the engine could blow and i'll just replace it(the engine) with a better one.
I did this to repair paint on my 1995 acura integra. just be aware, even if you prepare and apply base coat before, expect it to last only 2 to 4 years before peeling off again.
If you apply a very thick amount and use a professional paint booth with ideal air conditions and give it time to cure, it might last longer. I did mine outside.
go to settings, choose video speed and put it to 1.5
You're welcome
Nar I went straight to 2. Too much filler.
I usually do that. So glad youtube offers that!
Minus .25 to get it to sink in 😂
Thank You so much for the suggestion!
He blinks too fast...loll
if the paint thick enough, can use sand paper to remover the top clear coat by orbital sander.
Can you show us how to sand/blend more into the old clear coat? Seems like you just sprayed over the old clear coat and you can tell where it was peeling
Yeah,that's what I was looking for too
the fine steel wool soap pads You can buy a box from the supermarket use with plain water . Works brilliantly to remove paint oxidation. As long as you rub evenly and have not rubed through the base coat. Then apply clearcoat as the man says.
I want to also add my thank you's to to sir! You inspired me to do a small clear coat restoration on my Prius, the clear coat turned out well, It does need a bit of polishing, that I will do in about a week or so. Thanks again!
I watched this and thought "this is a helpful little vid" and expected to see like 300 views, then I looked at the view count *2,139,109* lmao, good job man.
great video, this is eaxctly what i have on my trunk... need to fix it now that i know how! thanks a lot!
That's not how to do it you're a dumbass if you do it that way
@@darrellstillsjr7784 a blind man can see this isn't how to do it properly. HOWEVER, if you own some hooptie like this Camry, I see nothing wrong with making it look better for what....less than $20?
Did it fix
This is a great video! Everything I wanted to know is explained.
Really like your videos - very helpful to regular car owners
If you want to remove old clearcoat to the point where it is still well attached, I use wide masking or packing tape. Apply to the old clear coat along the peel line and smooth it firmly. Pull off slowly and the old clearcoat will come with it. This has to be done carefully to avoid pulling any of the base coat with it. If you have stubborn old clear, duck tape is also an option, with a stronger pulling force that will remove the old clear cleanly. You can then re-clear the base coat or simply polish the base coat. but that doesn't usually work well with metallic base coat paints. It is very difficult to re-clear a metallic or pearl base coat.
Thank you sir!!
I'm going to make my Lexus look good.
😂
You might need a wand .
You could wet sand the final result with 2500-3000 grit to smooth out the orange peel and then wax it and bam even better. Good video
Good video.
A good way to make your 500 dollar car a little more reputable.
Happy Motoring.
Where can I find it cheap? Nothing is cheap anymore.. love your channel
Hit it with a 13hp 4000 psi pressure washer to blow the loose stuff off.
It worked really well !! My 1996 Toyota 4Runner looks great now!!
So I guess the answer is no?
Thanks for getting RIGHT to the video and the problem at hand, without a lot of hot air and B.S.
Add some dish soap to a spray bottle full of water so when you sand it makes it easier and faster to sand.
Drastic improvement & if it's waxed annually it should last. Inexpensive way to do it that works.
Ratchets please will you make a video on the use of body filler, but more especially, the usage of body filler to keep/maintain/restore body lines (after body damage). I feel that it will complement as well as add completion to your video series on spray painting and restoration. Thanks
Yes. Big improvement. I like that you can see the old clearcoat that was flaking. Its sealed. Adds character.
How long would this generally last?
When painting with a 20.00 spray can from an automotive paint retail/wholesale store color matched and made while you wait this type of paint has so much more UV protection and when applying it lays down so much better, lasts 3 times longer than any off the shelf hardware store paint. Good luck.
you didn't answer WaitWeight's question. HOW LONG would it last?
3-10 years depending on environment/ how often you clean and wax.
WaitWeight With the way this customer maintains their paint (not at all from the noted damage to clear coat) i would be shocked if any clear coat made it past 3-5 years. Nobody can really give you a solid answer without extensive UV testing and after that applying data to your given environment and your preventative maintenance routine. For example, any products useful life will be dramatically decreased being in Arizona vs Wyoming. So unless you speak to the chemist who has the testing data, your guess is as good as mine. Best of luck
1 year from experience because even if you do a good job on the part that is already peeled the old clear coat that you blend will continue to peel underneath.
Once clear coat begins peeling you will need to remove the entire clear coat from the panel.
Before spraying clear coat I use a product called "Klean-Strip Bulldog Abrasive Prep and Clean" on the scuff pad. That way we don't have to wash it first and the sanding comes out pretty consistent allowing the clear coat to lay down really nice.
Nathan Spain is it expensive?
And would it work with the cans
That's a lot of UV and salt air damage on a 23-year-old car.
This one as never properly maintened.
Excellent demo, This will save my Mitsubishi virago and give it a few more years.
Many thanks, great work!
I really enjoy learning from your videos, you are very knowledgeable and a easy teacher, thank you for your help
then after clear coat need to be polish too ? thank awesome videos.
My car looks like that too. Was considering just vinyl wrapping, but that was a little costly.
TargaWheels what about using plasti dip?
Or better yet... AutoDip it... I'm Autodipping my '68 Austin Healey Sprite... one panel at a time.. Cars is SO small.. should turn out awesome...
TargaWheels ji
You saved me from spending $$ on a new paint job when all I need to do is this because it looks amazing when it’s wet. I do have a couple of questions for ya. Where did you purchase these clear coat spray cans? Also, what is your solution for small spots of the original clear coat that is not flaking, but rough? Kinda like small rough circles.
Julian McAlister he has another video on clear coat blending. Pretty simple just sand the “circle” spots just don’t hit base coat. Then blend sand around the area preferably wet sand. Clean really well wash the car let it dry and spray clear on the whole piece
Amazon has the 2K
With damage like that.. And since I would be doing the whole hood, or car for that matter, why not give it a couple coats of paint first? To me, if it is worth it for me to take the time for the clear coat, might as well paint it... I have a 1989 Celica GT that has this exact problem...
Ditto. My 2005 Matrix will be getting paint and the 2K.
wonderful explanation...does the process remain same if we doing rubber Bumper ?? thanks
This guy said "Luke I'm ur moms baby daddy" 😵🤒😅😂😂😂
The tire looks great!
1995 camry.. The Clear you sprayed was worth more than the car:)
Otherwise good video
pontgta1 yeah 129$ for qt acrylic paint 25$ thinner more than my 93 Geo worth .
That car is realiable though
If that 1995 Camry is running drivable condition, then it's worth way more. $1000 at least. They don''t make cars the way they use to. New cars are now disposal cars with all electronic doo-dads that can't be repaired.
This will get you there, but ideally, you're going to use an air compressor and spray gun. You don't even need anything crazy, you can get by with a 20 gallon compressor, perhaps even a little smaller (just do one panel at a time) and I still use the cheap purple spray guns from harbor freight that are like $15 and I get excellent results. Just painted a bumper and fender on my vehicle and you wouldn't be able to tell a difference in the paint. But the wet sanding and buffing process is where the real magic happens.
Y2K clear coat, that what my mom was freaking out about?
the side you washed was a major difference by itself. Thanks for the video. I have some painting in my future and I have less experience than a novice and you did help.
I love all your videos, they are extremely helpful. You are doung an amazing job and as a automobile enthusiast I like to do things myself and your expert advise really helps
I had this problem on my car roof, I took it all back to metal, primed it, then Base coat and clear coat that's the only way to do it right, don't use rattle cans because they can't provide the volume of paint and spray angle you need to get a quick even coat, good old compressor and spray gun joby especially for large panels like roof and bonet or hood as you guys call it.
“I’m your moms baby daddy” 😂😂😂😂
would it have made an improvement if you had compounded and polished the paint prior to the clear coat aplication?
The clear needs something to adhere to, compounding and polishing would do the opposite of what is required, which is making something to adhere to (scuffing the surface).
@@jh8338
Sergio is asking a question, not making a correction, and he is quite calm.
this is a very nice way to show what to expect, thank you for doing this, i've got a 600 bmw with faded hood, roof, and deck lid, top of bumpers, and with this method the overall cost probably under 100 and overall look i'd say 100 % better, not perfect but considering 30 year old car, for 600 that runs great, a little more consistant finish from sides to top will be appreciated by almost all that look. again thank you. please is just the 1 step scuffing and ten clear enough? and what grade sanding or scuffing?
Beware - comments section is full of nonsense from keyboard jockeys. Nice video.
Very informative presentation,clear and concise. Thank you for your time.
That's a crap job, should have feathered the edges before spraying ?.
Tony Lloyd i agree. Afterall he only had to feather a very small area on 1 out of 3 rows. Makes me question that scotch brite if he cant even feather with it
A crap job for a crap car... lol
What does it mean to feather the edges?