Absolutely! Price inflation and confusion over what you are buying is a real issue. Especially when you are having to make your choice based on what other people say about the differences sometimes! 🥰
I agree Claire. Discontinue a fragrance instead of "reformulating" which usually means a diluted inferior version at a much higher price. The prices are just crazy now. I know everything has increased in price, but I think we're being ripped off. Ok rant over 😂 I miss Stella edp and Ralph Lauren Blue for women. Hope you're enjoying your weekend 💖
Ooh I never tried Ralph Lauren Blue... I agree about Stella. I think a lot of people loved that! I think discontinuing is ultimately the kinder action and I respect brands that do that rather than mess fragrances around and ruin them. I've been in the Peak District this weekend, I went for a very long walk today. Thanks for watching 🥰
Same 🤣 so much of my collection is discontinued fragrances... It's really hard to even attempt to keep up with what's current, it would cost a fortune and I'd be forever decluttering things that I loved. 🤷♀️ Thanks for watching 🥰
I don't think I have ever managed to buy the same perfume twice, whatever I like tends to be discontinued! Armani Si Fiori, Armani Sensi, Burberry Beat, JPG Scandal by Night, Chloe Love, Narciso in black cube, Gucci Flora, shall I go on?
Yes!!! This is something that is really missing... I asked a brand if they had reformulated a fragrance as my two samples smelt very different to each other. When I asked I said of course one sample is older than the other so perhaps they are just different ages or batches and the brand said "we'll DM you". They never did. I guess they don't want to say and ultimately, I take that as yes, we reformulated it. I don't know why it's so hard for them to just say that! Thanks for watching 🥰
You really went into the nitty-gritty in this video. I remember when lilial was banned. Both Lancôme Hypnôse and Poême disappeared from the shelves for a few months as a result. So many of my favourite older designer fragrances were discontinued. I also see these newer fragrances, especially celebrity and influencer releases, as being very short-lived. They won’t be around for more than a few years. The graph is very interesting; the market is definitely completely oversaturated. That’s why so many of us turn to older designer, classic, and vintage fragrances, as well as unique new releases.
Oh yes! Hypnôse did disappear! I only see it on the Lancôme website now really. I did see it heavily discounted in Superdrug though and I wondered whether they were selling off the old formulation. I think if people are used to a certain smell, it can be harder when things are reformulated rather than just discontinued. It's almost that the general customer feels gaslit, because they just don't know for sure anything has happened... 🥰
I really miss Bottega Veneta EDP and its gorgeous rich flankers: Eau de Velours and l'Absolu. IMO Balenciaga Paris was the best violet fragrance ever and Fendi's Furiosa was my holy grail scent for years, especially on those shiny warm golden autumn days. Not to mention that Fendi perfume bottles were all true masterpieces on their own. And Mugler's Aura...my all-time favourite...R.I.P. 😩😩😩
I absolutely love Balenciaga Paris! I didn't manage to try too many of the Bottega Veneta range, only the EDP and knot. I am happy to have a big bottle of Aura, it's a shame that one has gone. 🥰
Which new ones have you had a reaction to? I'm curious to know if there's anything in common between them. 🙂 Actually IFRA campaigned for oakmoss to just be restricted rather than be completely banned like the EU legislators wanted. It's really thanks to IFRA that we have any oakmoss at all now. Thanks for watching 🥰
Very Interesting. I will forever miss Opium (1977). There is a "Fragrance Free" movement in public places and offices etc. "Your skin but better" or lighter wearing fragrances seems to be a reaction to this change. The powerhouse fragrances of the 1980s are just not wanted in the public domain by many people.
Yes that's a fab point! I agree there's been a shift to the quieter ones and there are many workplaces now that have rules on fragrance, although I think that's far more common in the US than in the UK. I'm unsure about other countries. I've noticed that I seem to smell much more fragrance on people in France than I do in the UK though. Opium has certainly become much quieter. I retried it about a year ago and I was shocked! 🥰
The problem of discontinued items seems to be an issue with any product promoted on an emotional level. The idea of exclusivity ( _I'm the only one to have this_ ) is especially linked to short production runs (for obvious reasons). So fashion and shoes and automotive body-styles pop up for a year or three, then vanish. Thus the original potato peeler from Sweden has been around for a hundred (?) years, because no one yields to emotion when purchasing one, and this even though many better designed peelers are now on the market. Of course a house wants their fragrances to last a hundred years, but even the little black dress has changed over the years, and IFRA had nothing to do with it. Human psychology being what it is, perhaps Hermès cartel policy on the sale of Birkin bags offers the highest probability of longevity: have a long waiting list, charge ruinously high prices, and only let a customer have the bag when they have spent a small fortune on other items. Ferrari does something similar with their unreliable and overpriced sports cars (although the car styles do change).
Such a fab example with Hermès Birkins! I guess fragrance does this with limited edition fragrances, Guerlain seems to discontinue very randomly and I wonder whether that creates a "grab when you see it" mentality with Guerlain, look at how people grab Shalimar flankers which seem to disappear no matter how successful and loved they are! 🥰
I was devastated that Narciso (the white cube) by Narciso Rodriguez was discontinued. Narciso was such a beautiful, feminine fragrance. I used to feel so special whenever I wore Narciso. I wish they would bring Narciso back on the market.
It's weird that they discontinued the pillar fragrance but not the flankers 🤷♀️ I had poudrée and loved that one. I wonder whether it had a restricted ingredient in it and they decided not to reformulate? 🥰
Claire, you have the best videos on UA-cam. Its always like a perfume Ted Talk and I i love that i always learn something. I would be interested in an end of the year video ranking popular perfume sales, just to see what people are really buying.
Thank you! I spend a lot of time reading for, planning and editing these, so that's fab! Sadly I have no idea how I would get accurate sales data across multiple stores and markets worldwide to be able to bring you anything meaningful with sales, I guess if a list is published though I can cover that, although I would want to know what was included and what wasn't. I did once see a "biggest sales this year" list on someone's blog, so I asked the person where they got the data from and what was and what wasn't included and where in the world it covered. Unfortunately they blocked me 🤣 so yes, clearly the data out there might not be the most accurate when those lists are discussed 🤣 Thanks for watching 🥰
Fantastic research Claire - thank you! Oh I remember when Angel and Giorgio were launched in the old Lewis’s in Leeds. It was a gradual growth but I loved that, sometimes you need to smell a fragrance on a few people before it grabs you. I never thought about the Miss Dior thing, yes keep the name but cater for different generations. No chance of ever keeping a signature scent there then 😅. My aunt wore the original Miss Dior but as you say even that has been reformulated. I remember trying it in the late ‘90’s and it was beautiful, and then again recently - not so much 😢 My favourite discontinued - STELLA. I miss the original Fendi but it was very much of its time, I bought it after reading a Patricia Cornwell novel where detective Kay Scarpetta sprayed some on after a long day catching serial killers 😂. Thanks again and have a good week x
Yes! I have had that a few times where a fragrance doesn't immediately appeal when I smell it up close but on others and in the air it's stunning! I think Angel is a great example of that. Miss Dior droves me insane 🤣 just put a number after it or call it something else. I have even spoken to some people who don't realise that there are different versions of it 🤦♀️ it must be confusing if you smell it and think wow, this smells nothing like my old bottle 😂 I would love to try some of the old Fendi fragrances and I absolutely love it when I find a fragrance referenced in a film or a book. I love imagining how characters smell, so that feeds into that! Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume it does - I’m hooked if a film or book references a fragrance and whats funny is that a lot of actresses/actors say they select a specific fragrance for a particular role (for themselves to get into character) sadly they usually leave us guessing as to which! 😅
After a short exchange with Soki London, I realize that one of my favorites, Gucci Flora, was discontinued due to ingredient banning. Apparently; it was one of her favorites as well, so she has recreated a version of this past gem. Eagerly awaiting the arrival of Soki’s latest.
I believe Maison Alhambra do an apparently close dupe to Gucci Flora called Florence, it might be worth trying for the small cost (I haven't tried it). Which ingredient was that that was banned? I would love to know. 🥰
I miss Armani Si Fiori. I felt so feminine wearing it and haven't come across anything similar. I've turn to making my own fragrance to get the longevity I want.
I don't think I've so far smelt a complete dupe, but I would imagine that other fragrances houses know how popular that one was and will have that style on their radars. I have seen it listed in clone house catalogues, so it's probably worth checking out one of the inspired by versions and seeing how they compare. Good luck trying to make your own too though, that sounds fun! Thanks for watching 🥰
Oh wow! I had never thought of those two as similar but I guess I've tried one way more than the other, so perhaps the comparison for me is not complete! I will sniff again! Thanks for the idea! 🥰
Another fantastic video Claire. Your content like this consummately brings attention to interesting and relevant topics. I always learn something new! I’m fortunate to have amassed a sizable collection with several discontinued gems, so I truly only pine for a few fragrances. Feu d'Orange Intense from L’Occitane and Bvlgari Pour Femme come to mind. 😊
Thank you ❤️ I'm happy that you enjoyed it. It sounds like you have a nice treasure trove of a collection! Ooh I've tried Bvlgari Pour Femme, my friend at work had it along with Blv. Thanks for watching 🥰
I'm loving your channel and all your expertise in talking about perfumes and things that surround them. Gucci Rush is an incredible perfume, it smells like plastic and luxury shopping stores and even though it's discontinued it is still possible to find it for sale on some websites. Kisses from Brazil. Xx
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that you are enjoying the videos. Gucci Rush was a really inventive fragrance, totally fitting with Tom Ford being the creative director of Gucci at the time. 🥰
I miss: Tentations by Paloma Picasso, Gucci Envy, Midnight Poison, Fleur De Fleur by Nina Ricci. If you love old discontinued perfume...a good tip..aways look in old chemists/Pharmacies...they sometimes fo not realize what they have !!!
Really interesting. I miss the Balenciaga line, I thought florabotanica and balenciaga paris were so much more interesting than a lot of designer fare at similar price point. I also miss Stella
What a thorough and informative look into discontinuations - loved watching this, Claire. Michael Kors Signature and Ralph Lauren’s Lauren are the two discontinued scents I mourn the most. It’s almost impossible to find either and of course the prices can be exorbitant on secondhand platforms. Fortunately a kind soul emerges every now and then with a bottle for a good price but you’ve got to be quick to catch those, don’t you?!
Thank you ❤️ Yes! Eyes open and ready to pounce! 🤣 The best opportunities are where someone doesn't quite know what they have and they mislabel it as being something else. Thorough examination of photos can reap inexpensive gems! Thanks for watching ❤️
And it’s funny how the trend on fragrance changes so much sometimes. Fragrances I wore in my 20s with vanilla, I thought we’re so sweet at the time. But now with the gourmands, they don’t seem sweet at all. 😅
I just made a decent fragrance purchase from FragranceBuy and they sent me a decant of Teo Cabanel's OHA, which is from 2006, I think. It was obviously not a "recent" Fragrance, by the smell of it but I'm so glad they sent it because it's really beautiful and it would never have been on my radar, otherwise.
I love T Cabanel and I have a few perfumes from them, OHa included . The most beautiful in my collection are Alahine and Lace Garden. I'm from Paris and live close to their boutique.
Teo Cabanel have some nice ones! I really liked Café Cabanel, Je Ne Sais Quoi and Oh Là Là when I tried those! I would love to try more. What a fab choice for a decant! 🥰
You explained and issected this topic in detail, Claire. The reasons you mentioned account for the majority of discontinued fragrances. I dare to add simple and obvious one: inflation ! There are so many new releases that brands are forced to discontinue old fragrances to make room for the new ones ! This video is yet another enjoyable reasoninig of yours, Claire !!!
Yes! The whole subject is shrouded in mystery and rumour isn't it? I would love for companies to just say what their reason are for the decisions that they take with their fragrance lines, it would be so interesting to know! 🥰
Excellent video! outside of regulations, reformulations is another way to increase profits by making the "same" product with cheaper ingredients/materials.
So sad that Bottega Venetta is gone. I used to wear New West, but that was discontinued as well. I now wear Jo Malone, which i really like. Hopefully, that doesn't get discontinued, too. Thanks for the awesome video, i had no idea why perfumes disappeared other than poor sales.
I do think poor sales is the main reason but yes, there are others too for sure and some are somewhat beyond the brand's control. I do think a new launch drives business these days though sadly and that is fuelling the huge turnover of fragrances on the market these days. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thanks for another terrific video! I can't really think of any fragrances I loved that were discontinued totally...they've just been reformulated over the years until they're unidentifiable. I do think that Bottega Veneta EDP is a great loss, that one was unique and beautiful.
Thank Jim! Well that's good! 😊 I hope your run of luck continues 😂 I'm pleased to have a couple of partial bottles of Bottega Veneta EDP 😉 have a lovely week 🥰
I miss Mugler Alien Flora Futura edt.....gorgeous floral, but with an edge. Also a favourite of mine was Kenzo Flower Eau de lumiere...not available anymore in French fragrance stores. ..
I did try Flora Futura when that was about, I've never tried the Lumière though... It's a shame when fragrances that we love disappear. Thanks for watching 🥰
And I just wanted to comment again (because I’ve said this before) You have an incredibly aesthetically pleasing face. I get mesmerized by your eyes and sometimes have to rewind because I get distracted and miss what you’re talking about. lol That along with your information is a great combination. 😊
Hi Claire, this is a very complete view of the subject. I suppose when we mourn something discontinued we have to accept and find another perfume as wonderful if different, there is so much out there. I would have given the advice to turn to the second-hand market to replace a beloved scent, it used to be affordable but that's less and less the case. The culprit is our memory, we idolise some perfumes from our past sometimes and see them as irreplaceable. I'm guilty of doing this as well.
Yes! You are absolutely right! I have chased discontinued fragrances that I've never smelt and ultimately I've realised that often I don't find them as special as others who smelt them at the time do! Our emotions and memories are very connected to how good we think things are for sure. Thanks for watching 🥰
Amongst the female marketed fragrances my favourite discountinued one has to be Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. As for the male marketed fragrances the two I really enjoyed in my 20s were Tempore Uomo by Laura Biagotti and Casran by Chopard, sadly no longer available. Great video😊
@@dr.claire.perfume I used to own the first Gaultier 2 edition but its re-launch didn’t really excite me. Also I don’t think G2 is available in the EU.
@@Kylinmere oh wow, so the UK got it but the EU didn't, that's horrendous! I know it was only available from the JPG website directly and only for a limited time. 🤷♀️ They made such a fuss about it! You'd think they'd at least make it available!
Immediate [commercial] success certainly a big factor, and social medai platforms are now playing larger roles. Good point about re-releasing fragrances to keep them on trend. Although a lot of the "limited editions" and year editions probably also have a lot to do with manufacturing stumbles, cost and.....profit. Really though, reforms are a very standard and ongoing part of the day-to-day working at major fragrance and flavours companies. Makes sense to have back-up formulas for their clients ready just in case of a mishap or legal amendment. Loved the vid Claire! 💙
Thank you ❤️ I do think that simple profitability is the biggest reason here. And for sure, fragrance is absolutely now part of the fast fashion what's new world of social media. Thanks for watching 🥰
Wow, I didn’t know anything of this. Thank you so much for your insight. I was so sad that I couldn’t get my hands on to my favorite fragrance back in the day. Joop Nuit d‘ete. 😢
Thank you! I'm happy that you enjoyed this. Yes it's sad when our favourites disappear without warning. Joop have some lovely fragrances, I've tried quite a few but only own le Bain. Thanks for watching 🥰
Ricci Club by Nina Ricci. I wore that till the bitter end. Got my first bottle in ‘92. Stopped when a bottle started going for $250. Most do not even know of it but it was just magnificent. Wore it during the fall. It and Chanel Pour Monsieur are what started me on my fragrance journey. Still looking for a replacement to Ricci Club. If anyone reads this and knows of one please do tell. I would very much appreciate it.
I haven't tried it, but a few people seem to suggest cologne 154 by Jo Malone on Fragrantica, although from my experience, those "smells like" listings can be wildly inaccurate. Good luck finding something 🤞 thanks for watching 🥰
Such an informative presentation. It is so helpful to get a bird's eye view of the fragrance industry. Please continue to do this periodically. There is more to this hobby than just sniffing and wearing scents.
I actually have lots of videos like this one, you can find them in my playlists. I have videos discussing clone fragrances, floriography, the fragrance wheel, the importance of the idea of colour in fragrance, why we love musk, what petrichor is, what solar fragrances are and many others. I hope that helps! 🥰
Very interesting topic. Thank you for the video. I didn't understand why Nirmala was an issue for Angel - Nirmala was released much earlier and in fact I've seen somebody saying it was a scent that Mugler's mother was wearing. Was Nirmala reformulated? I've tested it's current version and it was a reallly nice Mango scent.
Thank you ❤️ Yes! It was reformulated so it wasn't quite so close! I do think it gets compared to Angel Eau Croisière 2019 now. I think there have been a few different versions of it that smell quite different. Molinard did make the argument that it was the older fragrance because of this, but they lost their case because the earlier version smelt more like Chanel no 5. 🤣
@@dr.claire.perfume I guess it's one of the rare cases when the smell was sued. Nowadays, mainly names and bottles are questioned and most of the court cases related to the smell were lost so I believe now even total smell dupes are legal unless they have too similar name or bottle.
Absolutely! If you haven't seen it already, you can check out my Clone perfumes video where I discuss some of the successful and unsuccessful legal cases and what can be patented and what not. 🥰
Hello, first time commenting 😊. I have Chanel No. 19 EDT 50ml bottle in the refillable grey case from about 30 years ago. I’ve used most of it except for the last few drops which I like to smell every now and again. I don’t think refills exist for the grey case. These days I rarely wear perfume, instead I prefer perfumed toiletries. A few years ago I was looking for toiletries for No. 19 but then I discovered the toiletries were discontinued! I managed to purchase a No. 19 body spray which unfortunately doesn’t smell of No. 19 at all. It had lost its scent when I purchased it (I managed to obtain a refund). I then bought the soap. Fortunately the soap does smell of Chanel No. 19. Interesting video, thank you.
That's lucky! I think soap does tend to hold fragrance for longer than body sprays in my own experience. I really love 19 poudré but I haven't owned either that nor 19. The fragrances are even quite rare to find in shops, it has to be a larger store to stock either! I'm happy you found something to bring back the scent memory for you. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Yes it is ! I wore it as a teenager & loved it so much ,.. The other month I saw someone was selling it & I was too slow on the uptake so it was gone. Yet I still hold the lovely memory. Take care, and thanks again for your lovely videos !
@@dr.claire.perfume yes exactly ! it wsant that urgent... and I guess that I already had my time wearing that perfume, so perhaps it was also funny revisiting that scent as an adult ? Yes, re saving money !!! very funny and VERY true !
I loved Versace Versus for men and Balenciaga Pour Homme - sadly, both are long discontinued - a pity I didn't buy more when I had the chance. If I like something now, i tend to buy at least another bottle for storage....
It's difficult isn't it? Because sometimes when you first buy something, you just don't know if in the long term it will be a love. Then by the time you realise that you want another bottle, it's gone. You have a sensible strategy.
Hi Claire. I also have the Ricci Ricci perfume. I don’t wear it, I use it as a room spray. I’ll keep the bottle when it’s empty and display it in the bathroom cabinet when it’s finished. I once had a set of 5ml bottles of Gucci gorgeous magnolia, gardenia etc in the old style clear glass bottles. Went to check out the new gardenia on in the floral bottle. Not the same scent, so haven’t replaced. 😃🇦🇺
Hello! My Ricci Ricci has now found a loving new home 😉 the bottle is stunning though! Those older Gucci Flora flankers were lovely 😍 I discovered them too late though as they were already disappearing. Have a fab week! 🥰
Completely heartbroken about the formulation change from the original 80s/90s Poison EDT. The present day version is a ghost of its former beauty. I really miss it and will likely buy a vintage bottle of it in the near future.
@@tracycameron2580 aww. That’s so sad. In the 90s my stepmom wore it every single day and our house and cars always smelled like Dior Poison and cigarettes 😂. She was an elegant woman with a hard bad girl edge. I have a lot of powerful memories related to that perfume. I loved and respected her deeply and miss her to this day. She taught me so much 💜.
Really interesting topic! I’m pretty sad about Mugler. But I actually don’t mind the direction that Amouage has gone in. I still like their originals but they have come out with some good ones recently too, in addition to the more crowd pleasing ones like Love Delight. I’m actually really enjoying Lineage and Crimson Rocks now. I wouldn’t call Guidance a crowd pleaser. It’s not my favorite- I prefer Lineage but it is definitely unique and intriguing
Amouage have certainly diversified, they have the more friendly ones and some more challenging ones. I'm sure that's more profitable for them, so hopefully they keep the mix! Mugler on the other hand 🤦♀️ I do still try the new ones, but in my heart of hearts, I know they aren't for me any longer. Thanks for watching 🥰
Have you tried Creed/ dark purple bottle. It smells just like Mugler Alien to me. Check it out. I think it's called Silk. When fragrances are discontinued, I think someone buys the right to own that particular smell. Because it always comes out again in a pretty bottle being owned by someone else.
Yes, it's the tuberose, ambroxan and saffron one isn't it? I reviewed it I think 🤔 interesting point about discontinued fragrances, I think brands do tend to copy what people have nostalgia for. It's a surer way of success!
I'm curious to know why Balenciaga discontinued all their fragrances. I know they royally f%&ked up their reputation with that utterly bizarre campaign...but they are trying to rebuild their fashion line. I would not wear their brand but their fragrances were OUTSTANDING. As far as designer fragrances go all of theirs were really unique and special. I'm gutted by the discontinuation of Gucci by Gucci, it was so good. To me, the designer houses really peaked between 1995 and 2005 and maybe a few years either side. A golden era! Yves Saint Laurent was on fire in the 90s. The Dior 90s line! (the Poisons, Addict, Dune and J'adore) If Dior discontinues these I will never forgive them. I know some people complain about the reformulations of Addict and Dune but I find them close enough that they evoke the happy memories and I am soooo glad they are still being made. Seems to me the designer houses play it much more safe these days and most of them are frankly just BORING. Another great and interesting video thanks Claire! I would like to see a trend go round on Perfume UA-cam where everyone picks their top designer fragrances from decades past that could be released today as niche. Eden, Ultraviolet, Dune, and YSLs Vice Versa would be on my list. Truly creative and outside the box.
I agree with you that there was a golden age of designer fragrance that is sadly gone. Nowadays everything seems to smell much of muchness, I agree, I find new releases boring in comparison to older fragrances, which is why my collection is mostly discontinued and why I don't rush to review new designer fragrances because on the whole, they just don't interest me. I'm not sure of the timeline but I think Balenciaga had that seriously off campaign after they discontinued their fragrance line. Who knows what they were thinking but clearly they've not had the best direction over the last few years... Thanks for watching 🥰
They already butchered the original Addict. I have two bottles of the original. I have not tried a modern Poison but I have an 80s Poison Parfum de Toilette that’s amazing. Dune… if they discontinue Dune, I’m going to cry! I LOVE Dune.
This was awesome Claire! That Ricci Ricci bottle is like a piece of art! Yes I've noticed that brands like Amouage have been becoming more mainstream in their scent profiles.. it does make sense I guess but it's just how it goes. It's sad when one of our faves gets discontinued, but it helps a bit to know that sometimes there are legitimate reasons 😌💛
Yes! Things move on and that in part is what makes all of this exciting! It's all about the search for the "one" or perhaps the many 😂 Amouage have for sure become more mainstream niche, and who can blame them? Brands go where the money is... Have a fab weekend ❤️. Thanks for watching 🥰
Crabtree & Evelyn had some of my favourite fragrances; "India Hicks Island Living-Spider Lily, Verandah and Spring Rain". L'Occitane is the worst company for discontinuing their fragrances, im looking at you, "Arlesiennqe and Terre de Lumiere". I have an empty bottle of "Heaven Scent" by Helena Rubinstein, from the 80s. I can still smell the scent and it takes me back to being a teenager and wearing my Nana's perfume.
I agree, L'occitane are very unpredictable. Many of their fragrances are one season only and then gone and you might only see them again in a sale selection a year later. Terre de Lumière was loved but I think I heard that they were or had brought that one back? 🤔 Thanks for watching 🥰
Fifty percent of my collection consists of discontinued fragrances. I tend to like softer but more complex fragrances which is not the direction of perfumery these days.
Yes, me too, probably 50% of my collection is discontinued. I love trying older designer fragrances because I normally enjoy them more than what's new to the market now. Thanks for watching 🥰
What you said about the Miss Dior line essentially being new fragrances but released under that name, it seems similar to what they did with the Dior Homme line with both the Homme and Homme Sport fragrances. I guess I was hoping that they would stick to the 2020 Homme/2021 Homme Sport versions because they seem to be strong sellers, but what you said make so much sense that I can see them moving on from them as well. Is that the sense you get from that line? I ask because I'm a man of modest means and a full bottle purchase is non-trivial for me. I've recently discovered that I like fragrances so I've started sampling a lot, Homme and particularly Homme Sport are my favorites by a considerable margin, I want to get a fragrance that's good for all occasions and just wear it, but I would be heartbroken to get a fragrance that's kinda 'my scent' only for it to become discontinued. Maybe that's just the climate we're in now, besides very successful fragrances like Blue de Chanel and Sauvage, I'm not sure how many fragrances from now will still be available in the future in the way you can still buy Polo Green and Fahrenheit. Another great video Claire, thank you!
I think you are spot on, the times of a classic fragrance being sold for decades is probably mostly over. Dior have had a massive hit with Sauvage and they are keen to hang onto that success. I think within the general public, there is immense loyalty to some lines and Sauvage is one of those. Yes, I see Dior Homme as an equivalent with Miss Dior, a similar idea with frequent reformulation and relaunch. I think everyone was shocked when the soft iris went to a woodier fresher feel for Homme in 2020, but I can't say I know much about the differences between the 2020 and the 2023. I actually loved the 2011 version but that's long gone 🤣 I'd be very happy to have a bottle of that. I think there might have been cost implications perhaps, or perhaps Dior were wanting that original version to form the basis of one of the Privée line and didn't want that style in the mainline. Also they've changed perfumers since 2020, so perhaps Dior wanted Kurkdjian's name attached to it to refresh interest? I don't know! It was so popular anyway! 🤷♀️ I've not tried Homme Sport, I will go spray the current formulation next time I'm in store. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thank you so much for the excellent reply! I'm glad you're going to give the current version of Dior Homme Sport a try, I can't recommend it enough. It's my favorite fragrance by a fairly considerable margin. I do like the regular Dior Homme as well, they're (of course) somewhat similar, but the difference in the Sport version just makes it perfect in my opinion. Thanks again Claire, have a great weekend!
Great video, although slightly alarmed now about how many of my perfumes seem to have lilial in them.... Also confused as to how Mugler and Clarins could come for Molinard, considering Nirmala came out in the 1950's? Surely Molinard should have come for Mugler for Angel's similarity to Nirmala?!
Absolutely! I think lilial was a big headache for a lot of brands because even if LOTV isn't listed, it's still used to mimic lilac or just general florals, so it was in LOADS. And yes! That was Molinard's counter argument, but they still lost...Molinard said that it was the older fragrance, but they lost because it had been reformulated and that was what Clarins were upset by, the later version, not the earlier version that smelt more like Chanel no 5 which they weren't fussed by 🤣 Nirmala was then reformulated after the case so that it wasn't quite so close, but from reading, I think it gets compared to Angel Eau Croisière 2019 now 🤷♀️. I think there have been a few different versions of it that smell quite different basically! Thanks for watching
I really miss Bond no 9 Union Square. I discovered this scent in my early 20s back when it was called Andy Warhol Union Square. Anytime I needed a fragrance that would make me feel confident, that was the one I pulled for. I’d say I have too many perfumes now but I don’t have anything that makes me feel that way.
Yes I know what you mean about too many. I've been trying to reduce my collection this year and so far so good. I think sometimes more isn't necessarily more. Those ones that make you feel are the precious ones for sure! Thanks for watching 🥰
I really don’t know what to think about ifra, on one hand - they are making perfume safer somewhat. But then there is also the argument that if cigarettes and alcohol etc are legal - substances that are much more dangerous to a person, why would there be so much control over perfume that you don’t even ingest. Especially the oak moss case is annoying, as it seems that they used the ban to just sell their alternative synthetic version.
I guess because there aren't huge opportunities to heavily tax fragrance at huge percentages and alcohol and cigarettes are things that people know the risks of. How many non fragrance obsessives even know what oakmoss is? Fragrance is seen by the general public as something beautifying and enhancing. I think any cosmetic product, as fragrance is considered to be, has quite a lot of regulation with regard to ingredients and that is only becoming stricter. Really the EU wanted to ban oakmoss entirely, but IFRA negotiated to have a limit for the % of oakmoss instead, even if it is a low one, and brands are still allowed to use oakmoss with the atranol and chloroatranol components removed, e.g. Guerlain use that. I do agree that IFRA changes do create suspicions though because the are a trade body that effectively promotes industry made ingredients that are considered alternatives. Thanks for watching 🥰 Thanks for watching 🥰
Aah that's another reason! Limited editions that are a type of built in obsolescence for fragrance lines! Mugler had some absolute stunners 😍 I'm sorry I missed that one! It sounds gorgeous, I love leather ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
The ways of the perfume industry are a mystery, so thank you for your illuminations. The Oak Moss Crisis 😅I've heard people mourn the loss. I was reading about vanilla, and how climate change is effecting cultivation. Apparently fragrance and food industries are looking for synethic equivalents. It's true, isn't it, how social media and virality effects parfume sales? As someone from the analog age, I recall signature scents, and having one fragrance (😳imagaine!) that I purchased in the department store (Macy's). And the scents inside magazines. Is that even done any more?
They are aren't they 🤣 Social media is really making or breaking fragrances these days, especially tik tok for designer fragrances. Me too with one bottle at a time and purchasing in store. Times have really changed. I don't remember the last time I bought a magazine but I used to love those glossy fantasy worlds! Thanks for watching 🥰
I really miss one from Alfred Sung called Mei. I have absolutely no idea why it was discontinued.. It had that aquatic floral freshness, which would now be considered dated, as you said. However, I'd buy it in a second, if the original formulation became available again today.
Terrific video, Claire. I learned quite a bit from it - enough to make me feel like I should have watched this one before commenting on your clone video. Perhaps it has made me feel just a bit more sympathetic to the designer houses and the marketing games they play. But only a bit. I mean, let's not get crazy here. 😉 P.S. I own quite a number of Maison Alhambra frags, so I was interested to see your well-presented update on their packaging/presentation changes. Isn't it ironic that they were forced to change everything except the thing that matters most - the juice inside? 😆 Strange world.
Yeah, I don't think it's always the companies choosing to reformulate. Lilial was in a heck of a lot of fragrances and must have forced numerous reformulations and discontinuations. I can imagine that it's horrendously costly for brands and very annoying for them if they have a bestseller on their hands. I guess Maison Alhambra can only be got on copyright infringement and clearly they were worried enough to change so that suggests that EL did have a case that they thought was winnable. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Speaking of banned ingredients, here's a question that's probably in your scientist's wheelhouse: Are you aware of any health concerns around the long-term use of fragrance? I've never experienced an allergic reaction, but I do wonder about possible carcinogenic effects over time.
@@BertRussell4711 I'm answering that in a q and a video soon... So many people ask me that... Basically I don't feel I'm someone who can spend the years it would take to check the research out there on every fragrance ingredient. I don't want to spread false info, so I stay away from talking about it. Anyone who discusses it in UA-cam, I would take with a humongous pinch of salt because they won't have spent enough time reading about it all and will just be paraphrasing from websites, as it would be a full time job for several years to check what you'd need to check and you still wouldn't be sure or know everything possible. 🙂
I think the same forces that mold and nudge food trends are also active in the perfume market. Massive conglomerates accrue enough data to predict years in advance the scarcity or abundance of an ingredient and begin to guide the consumer towards the upcoming "choice" being offered. Our tastes aren't really evolving -they're being created and manipulated.
I think you are onto something for sure! We definitely see trends towards particular notes, for example raspberry, peach and cherry have been particularly prominent over the last few years. It really does make you wonder! Thanks for watching 🥰
Hi Claire, I have seen Alhambras' dupes of Tom Fords on e-shop few days ago and I went: "O-oh, someone got caught" 😅😅😅 It was just rude of Alhambra, I must say I was surprised they pulled of that long with those bottles and names... But I love my Alhambras and have a few myself. They also changed Versencia Noir to Jubilent Noir 😄 Sending you best regards🌸
Haha, those names are pretty close aren't they?! No wonder the original brands are not happy about it. Yes! Something clearly went down and I would love to know the juicy details! 🤣 Thanks for watching 🥰
Very interesting topic, loved watching every minute of it and how you explained everything! ❤ 👍🏻 The fragrances I miss the most are Florabotanica by Balenciaga (I’ve worn it since I was 22 🥲) and Datura Noir by Serge Lutens (at least I think it’s discontinued, I can’t seem to find it anywhere) What about you? Greetings from Germany 🫶🏻👋🏼
Thank you ❤️ and also thanks for the information! I have also been trying to find Datura Noir and have been struggling, so that explains a lot! I really do love Balenciaga Paris, I think that fragrance feels very me so I think that, Marc Jacobs Lola and Stella McCartney Stella are the fragrances that I miss the most. Thanks for watching 🥰
Two of my favs have been discontinued the past few years, AdP's Colonia Assoluta and Equipage Geranium from Hermès. I doubt either were very big sellers and could have been lopped off just for that...but it is possible there was oak moss % issues too. For sure it is smart for brands to focus on just a few lines, just a few in each line. I believe this is why Stronger With You has largely been kept out of the US market. (some stores just received the Intensely version this summer and I'm told they are selling well.) But Armani already has such a confusing story to tell to consumers, adding lines or flankers is just a mess! It seems to me they could do web only deals or seasonal limited releases. There is a famous case of a chewing gum called Black Jack gum (made famous in Twin Peaks TV show) that is only available two weeks a year. People go mad for it! Interesting video, Claire.
Wow! I didnt realise that Colonia Assoluta had been discontinued! But yes, you are right, neither was probably a big seller. I think that about a lot of Hermès in particular but Hermès stand out a bit as they have a very different feel to their fragrances that like Chanel is one of those acquired tastes. I like how so many of their lines aren't following any trend, they're just Hermès. I find it astounding that Stronger With You hasn't been marketed more widely as the line was a huge hit in Europe. I also noticed that very few US reviewers ever spoke about Because it's You (the female marketed partner release). Haha, I never realised that there was a Twin Peaks gum! Here there is a very 80s sweet called Black Jacks, they are chewy and sweet blackcurrant and liquorice/anise flavour and they stain your tongue black. They've been made more natural and less sugary so they aren't really the same now, but wow, I loved them! 🤣 Thanks for watching 🥰
There was one chypre perfume called Oligarch by Roja Parfums. It came with magnificent Russian crest in the pack. It got discontinued because of the war.
Oh wow! That's really interesting! I had no idea! I can definitely see why that wouldn't be a name that would fly right now though. It's somewhat disappointing for the brand given that they've formulated it though. I wonder if it wasn't selling well? Surely they could have renamed it, but also the bottles etc would have the name on so it wouldn't be easy... Oh what a mess! 🤦♀️
Thank you! Ooh that's a hard one. I think for me, it might be Balenciaga Paris, that fragrance always feels like it was made for me. Teazurra was loved for sure! Thanks for watching 🥰
I've not ever tried it unfortunately, but I know it was loved. If I come across a secondhand partial at an affordable price, I will pick it up though! Thanks for watching 🥰
My favourite discontinued fragrance was tuberose gardenia by Estée Lauder and also blonde by Versace. Really strong white florals. Blonde didn't last on me but I loved it nevertheless
That's quite something isn't it? If you are willing to tolerate sub par performance, you know it's a love! It's sad when the things that we love are discontinued. Thanks for watching 🥰
It's a shame that those are gone. Mugler's distribution is very Europe centred a lot of the time 🤷♀️ I don't understand as they seem popular in the US too 🥰
I would love to hear your thoughts on LE fragrances someday. Your last point made me wonder what will happen with Britney Spears fragrances amid the change in companies. I just heard about it today and the legal issues that surround the change.
@@dr.claire.perfume LE- limited edition 😀. There is a lawsuit by Revlon to 4 former employees and the company that took over the Britney contract. Jen Luvs covered it a bit in her video yesterday. It sounds like they plotted to steal information.
Oh! I get it! Lol 🤣 I read some news articles about it and yes, it sounds like it. I checked GBB's website yesterday, some of their "core values" look very dubious in the light of what's happened. 🤣 The Britney catalogue is huge and will be a major blow to Revlon/ EA.
I feel like we feel it the most with legendary fragrances like Dior J'Adore and Hypnose Lancome, and so on. They used so be different! It's just so obcious it's too much
I agree, if reformulation is going to noticeably alter the fragrance, then perhaps the brand should make it clearer that a reformulation had happened, that would prevent disappointment. 🥰
Hi Claire! Thank you for your high quality videos. I’ve been trying to find an answer to 2 questions online without success, and I was wondering if you knew the answers. 1. Storing fragrances. I heard that it’s better to store fragrances away from sunlight (because of UV rays) and away from humidity and heat. They say it’s bad to store fragrances in bathrooms. I keep my perfumes in a drawer in my bathroom (away from light) but it’s hard to believe that humidity and heat can affect the fragrance when it has a cap on. The only moment it could affect it, if when spraying because that’s when the ambiant air goes into the bottle to compensate the liquid leaving. So I only spray my perfumes in the corridor (more cool and dry) (if the bathroom is hot or humid). Am I correct? 2. If I leave a perfume mist without its cap, will some of the alcohol evaporate, resulting in a more concentrated fragrance? Thank you so much!
I don't know whether you've seen this video, but it might help a little: ua-cam.com/video/YxSjux0-IVc/v-deo.html I think it's all opinion really, has anyone tested any of this scientifically? No. It's all just trying to apply logic. 1. Basically the amount of humid air entering the bottle will be very little I think, because of how you are using the fragrances (taking them out of the bathroom to spray) but there will still be a very minimal amount of air exchange with the nozzle when the fragrances aren't being sprayed. I think the not in the bathroom advice is also to do with the variation in temperature of the bathroom to some extent as they get hot and cold quickly. Fragrance keeps best in cool constant temperature dry conditions, however in a drawer, how much heating can there be? I guess you will know better. Liquids take a long time to change in temperature significantly. 2. Leaving a fragrance without a cap will again minimally affect how a fragrance keeps. Ideally a cap should be used, but many bottles are designed without caps, e.g. Gucci Rush. Caps act as a secondary barrier to air exchange with the nozzle. Over time (many years) and use all fragrance will lose some alcohol, but the partial pressure within the bottle is reestablished quickly after spraying, so I really think, other than what is sprayed out, which is proportional to the oil, nothing significant will be lost if the atomiser is a good functional one and you are not leaving the fragrance over many many years. Hope that helps! 🥰
Oh wow! I had no idea it had been reformulated... I'm so glad that I didn't pick up a new bottle now when I finished my old one. I did umm and ahh about it! Thanks for the information 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume yes in 2020 they changed their formulation because it had lilial in it. This was also in the original W by Banana Republic that was released in ‘95 and later discontinued. That was also one of my signature scents. Apparently lilial went really well with my skin chemistry because I had more compliments whenever I wore those two perfumes then I ever get now. So so sad that it’s now banned
This one still breaks my heart. It was only banned in the UK so I don’t understand why they don’t just sell two different versions, one without the lillial. I only say this because thr fan outcry for the OG continues all over the internet to this day.
When I really think about it, I'm not actually too bothered about discontinuations. When I think back to my old signature fragrance, Dior's Midnight Poison... whilst I would like to own a small bottle just to smell occasionally, I prefer that they discontinued it rather than reformulating it to something that would smell in any way different to the original. Besides, its not me any more. I guess it represents a certain period in my life that I am happy is in my past. If I think about my current loves in my stash, yes, I'd be sad if any of them suddenly went and I couldn't repurchase them, but I would just have to find another perfume to love, it wouldn't exactly be a loss in my life 🤷♀️ I dunno, maybe I am not that sentimental when it comes to perfume 😂 Interesting and thought provoking video, Claire, thank you 🙌
I've learnt to be more philosophical about it. It doesn't do to dwell and ultimately I'm pretty fickle, there aren't many fragrances that I would choose to repurchase, I'm always wanting to explore, but I do love trying vintage designer fragrances ☺️ I agree with you, fragrances can act as time capsules can't they? Sniffing them takes you back to a time and a place and the fact that some fragrances disappear makes that even more precious. ✨ Have a lovely week! Thanks for watching 🥰
I don't know whether you've seen this already, but I have this video talking about the effects of clones on popular fragrances ua-cam.com/video/hj-dULOUonU/v-deo.html Thanks for watching 🥰
Still wondering why they discontinued Acqua Di Gio Profumo. They relaunched it a month later with slightly less incense, and have now relaunched it Again with more incense. What are they doing over there?
@dr.claire.perfume The fragrance community has multiple times awarded it as one of the greatest (or The greatest) Fragrance. Still, it got disconnected.
I agree I’d rather they discontinue a fragrance that reformulate to a shadow of how it smelt originally
@HappinessSparkles I wholeheartedly agree. It just creates confusion and price gouging for vintage bottles
Totally Frances! It's really sad isn't it 😢
Absolutely! Price inflation and confusion over what you are buying is a real issue. Especially when you are having to make your choice based on what other people say about the differences sometimes! 🥰
Agree also
@@kathywitter6076agree
What happened to Mugler is a crime..
😭 yes!
L'oreal really knows how to kill a brand!
They do... I hope they don't takeover Amouage, I know they were looking at a minority share.
I agree Claire. Discontinue a fragrance instead of "reformulating" which usually means a diluted inferior version at a much higher price. The prices are just crazy now. I know everything has increased in price, but I think we're being ripped off. Ok rant over 😂
I miss Stella edp and Ralph Lauren Blue for women.
Hope you're enjoying your weekend 💖
Ooh I never tried Ralph Lauren Blue... I agree about Stella. I think a lot of people loved that! I think discontinuing is ultimately the kinder action and I respect brands that do that rather than mess fragrances around and ruin them.
I've been in the Peak District this weekend, I went for a very long walk today. Thanks for watching 🥰
Yes Stella
@@suelowry6880 a beautiful fragrance 👌
I'm the queen of discontinued frangrances. I have an eye for them. I buy them, then: they puff! Vanish!! 😅 Thank you Claire!
Same 🤣 so much of my collection is discontinued fragrances... It's really hard to even attempt to keep up with what's current, it would cost a fortune and I'd be forever decluttering things that I loved. 🤷♀️ Thanks for watching 🥰
I don't think I have ever managed to buy the same perfume twice, whatever I like tends to be discontinued! Armani Si Fiori, Armani Sensi, Burberry Beat, JPG Scandal by Night, Chloe Love, Narciso in black cube, Gucci Flora, shall I go on?
@murtila4456 Gucci 'Flora', a glorious one. I'm really shocked this is discontinued.
I would like to see more transparency when a fragrance is reformulated
Yes!!! This is something that is really missing... I asked a brand if they had reformulated a fragrance as my two samples smelt very different to each other. When I asked I said of course one sample is older than the other so perhaps they are just different ages or batches and the brand said "we'll DM you". They never did. I guess they don't want to say and ultimately, I take that as yes, we reformulated it. I don't know why it's so hard for them to just say that! Thanks for watching 🥰
Yes! A re-name or another indication!
You really went into the nitty-gritty in this video. I remember when lilial was banned. Both Lancôme Hypnôse and Poême disappeared from the shelves for a few months as a result. So many of my favourite older designer fragrances were discontinued. I also see these newer fragrances, especially celebrity and influencer releases, as being very short-lived. They won’t be around for more than a few years. The graph is very interesting; the market is definitely completely oversaturated. That’s why so many of us turn to older designer, classic, and vintage fragrances, as well as unique new releases.
Oh yes! Hypnôse did disappear! I only see it on the Lancôme website now really. I did see it heavily discounted in Superdrug though and I wondered whether they were selling off the old formulation. I think if people are used to a certain smell, it can be harder when things are reformulated rather than just discontinued. It's almost that the general customer feels gaslit, because they just don't know for sure anything has happened... 🥰
The industry must be shaking because you reveal all their secrets! 😂 excellent video Claire, as always!
Haha 😂 thanks Julie 🥰
I really miss Bottega Veneta EDP and its gorgeous rich flankers: Eau de Velours and l'Absolu. IMO Balenciaga Paris was the best violet fragrance ever and Fendi's Furiosa was my holy grail scent for years, especially on those shiny warm golden autumn days. Not to mention that Fendi perfume bottles were all true masterpieces on their own. And Mugler's Aura...my all-time favourite...R.I.P. 😩😩😩
I absolutely love Balenciaga Paris! I didn't manage to try too many of the Bottega Veneta range, only the EDP and knot. I am happy to have a big bottle of Aura, it's a shame that one has gone. 🥰
Aura was the only Mugler I have ever liked.
It's really likable but still interesting and unlike anything else. 🥰
I’m in the fragrance industry. Great reporting! By the way, Dior says they “update” the fragrances.
Thank you! ❤️ And yes 🤣 Dior know how to put a positive spin on what they do! I think it's really interesting marketing. Thanks for watching 🥰
Nothing worse than your favourite perfume being discontinued! Great video 🌸
Absolutely 💯 Thanks for watching 🥰
Isn’t Claire great ?!! I’m so happy you two know about each other 😊 You are amazing as well P&F 🌸💖
Thank you! 😊
I wish Si Fiori had not been discontinued... I think it's such a nice fluffy sweet slightly floral marshmallow fragrance.
I think lots of people miss that one! I wonder what reason Armani had to discontinue it? Thanks for watching 🥰
IFRA does not protect us. I have never had an allergic reaction to my vintage perfumes, but i had a very bad reaction to some new fragrances...
Which new ones have you had a reaction to? I'm curious to know if there's anything in common between them. 🙂
Actually IFRA campaigned for oakmoss to just be restricted rather than be completely banned like the EU legislators wanted. It's really thanks to IFRA that we have any oakmoss at all now. Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume I have had an allergic reaction to Intimate Silhouette by Christian Siriano. A burning red skin on my arm.
Ouch! I will look it up! Thanks for letting me know! 🥰
Very Interesting. I will forever miss Opium (1977). There is a "Fragrance Free" movement in public places and offices etc. "Your skin but better" or lighter wearing fragrances seems to be a reaction to this change. The powerhouse fragrances of the 1980s are just not wanted in the public domain by many people.
Yes that's a fab point! I agree there's been a shift to the quieter ones and there are many workplaces now that have rules on fragrance, although I think that's far more common in the US than in the UK. I'm unsure about other countries. I've noticed that I seem to smell much more fragrance on people in France than I do in the UK though. Opium has certainly become much quieter. I retried it about a year ago and I was shocked! 🥰
Fantastically thorough explanation of this topic. I’ve wondered about this, and you cleared it up for me. Thank you!
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that you enjoyed it 🥰
The problem of discontinued items seems to be an issue with any product promoted on an emotional level. The idea of exclusivity ( _I'm the only one to have this_ ) is especially linked to short production runs (for obvious reasons). So fashion and shoes and automotive body-styles pop up for a year or three, then vanish. Thus the original potato peeler from Sweden has been around for a hundred (?) years, because no one yields to emotion when purchasing one, and this even though many better designed peelers are now on the market. Of course a house wants their fragrances to last a hundred years, but even the little black dress has changed over the years, and IFRA had nothing to do with it. Human psychology being what it is, perhaps Hermès cartel policy on the sale of Birkin bags offers the highest probability of longevity: have a long waiting list, charge ruinously high prices, and only let a customer have the bag when they have spent a small fortune on other items. Ferrari does something similar with their unreliable and overpriced sports cars (although the car styles do change).
Such a fab example with Hermès Birkins! I guess fragrance does this with limited edition fragrances, Guerlain seems to discontinue very randomly and I wonder whether that creates a "grab when you see it" mentality with Guerlain, look at how people grab Shalimar flankers which seem to disappear no matter how successful and loved they are! 🥰
I was devastated that Narciso (the white cube) by Narciso Rodriguez was discontinued. Narciso was such a beautiful, feminine fragrance. I used to feel so special whenever I wore Narciso. I wish they would bring Narciso back on the market.
It's weird that they discontinued the pillar fragrance but not the flankers 🤷♀️ I had poudrée and loved that one. I wonder whether it had a restricted ingredient in it and they decided not to reformulate? 🥰
Claire, you have the best videos on UA-cam. Its always like a perfume Ted Talk and I i love that i always learn something.
I would be interested in an end of the year video ranking popular perfume sales, just to see what people are really buying.
Thank you! I spend a lot of time reading for, planning and editing these, so that's fab!
Sadly I have no idea how I would get accurate sales data across multiple stores and markets worldwide to be able to bring you anything meaningful with sales, I guess if a list is published though I can cover that, although I would want to know what was included and what wasn't. I did once see a "biggest sales this year" list on someone's blog, so I asked the person where they got the data from and what was and what wasn't included and where in the world it covered. Unfortunately they blocked me 🤣 so yes, clearly the data out there might not be the most accurate when those lists are discussed 🤣
Thanks for watching 🥰
I really love your videos! Very informative❤
Thank you ❤️
Fantastic research Claire - thank you!
Oh I remember when Angel and Giorgio were launched in the old Lewis’s in Leeds. It was a gradual growth but I loved that, sometimes you need to smell a fragrance on a few people before it grabs you.
I never thought about the Miss Dior thing, yes keep the name but cater for different generations. No chance of ever keeping a signature scent there then 😅. My aunt wore the original Miss Dior but as you say even that has been reformulated. I remember trying it in the late ‘90’s and it was beautiful, and then again recently - not so much 😢
My favourite discontinued - STELLA.
I miss the original Fendi but it was very much of its time, I bought it after reading a Patricia Cornwell novel where detective Kay Scarpetta sprayed some on after a long day catching serial killers 😂.
Thanks again and have a good week x
Yes! I have had that a few times where a fragrance doesn't immediately appeal when I smell it up close but on others and in the air it's stunning! I think Angel is a great example of that.
Miss Dior droves me insane 🤣 just put a number after it or call it something else. I have even spoken to some people who don't realise that there are different versions of it 🤦♀️ it must be confusing if you smell it and think wow, this smells nothing like my old bottle 😂
I would love to try some of the old Fendi fragrances and I absolutely love it when I find a fragrance referenced in a film or a book. I love imagining how characters smell, so that feeds into that!
Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume it does - I’m hooked if a film or book references a fragrance and whats funny is that a lot of actresses/actors say they select a specific fragrance for a particular role (for themselves to get into character) sadly they usually leave us guessing as to which! 😅
Yes! I've seen that said in interviews too! It would be so interesting to know and have a smell-along session with the film!
After a short exchange with Soki London, I realize that one of my favorites, Gucci Flora, was discontinued due to ingredient banning. Apparently; it was one of her favorites as well, so she has recreated a version of this past gem. Eagerly awaiting the arrival of Soki’s latest.
I believe Maison Alhambra do an apparently close dupe to Gucci Flora called Florence, it might be worth trying for the small cost (I haven't tried it). Which ingredient was that that was banned? I would love to know. 🥰
I miss Armani Si Fiori. I felt so feminine wearing it and haven't come across anything similar. I've turn to making my own fragrance to get the longevity I want.
I don't think I've so far smelt a complete dupe, but I would imagine that other fragrances houses know how popular that one was and will have that style on their radars. I have seen it listed in clone house catalogues, so it's probably worth checking out one of the inspired by versions and seeing how they compare. Good luck trying to make your own too though, that sounds fun! Thanks for watching 🥰
Si Fiori was one of my favorites as well. Perfume De Marley Delina Exclusif is the closet to it. That's a gorgeous frag to me. Try it!
Oh wow! I had never thought of those two as similar but I guess I've tried one way more than the other, so perhaps the comparison for me is not complete! I will sniff again! Thanks for the idea! 🥰
Another fantastic video Claire. Your content like this consummately brings attention to interesting and relevant topics. I always learn something new! I’m fortunate to have amassed a sizable collection with several discontinued gems, so I truly only pine for a few fragrances. Feu d'Orange Intense from L’Occitane and Bvlgari Pour Femme come to mind. 😊
Thank you ❤️ I'm happy that you enjoyed it. It sounds like you have a nice treasure trove of a collection! Ooh I've tried Bvlgari Pour Femme, my friend at work had it along with Blv. Thanks for watching 🥰
I miss Armani’s Sensi so much. It was one of the best almond fragrances. Super classy and cozy.
Ooh that does sound beautiful, sadly I never got to try it. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thanks Claire! That was super informative! 👍
Thank you 🥰
Good morning darling ☕️I’m grabbing another coffee to get real comfy for this ❤
Hello Frances! Hope you enjoyed your coffee! ☕
I'm loving your channel and all your expertise in talking about perfumes and things that surround them. Gucci Rush is an incredible perfume, it smells like plastic and luxury shopping stores and even though it's discontinued it is still possible to find it for sale on some websites. Kisses from Brazil. Xx
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that you are enjoying the videos. Gucci Rush was a really inventive fragrance, totally fitting with Tom Ford being the creative director of Gucci at the time. 🥰
I miss: Tentations by Paloma Picasso, Gucci Envy, Midnight Poison, Fleur De Fleur by Nina Ricci. If you love old discontinued perfume...a good tip..aways look in old chemists/Pharmacies...they sometimes fo not realize what they have !!!
Gosh I love Envy! ❤️❤️❤️ And good tip! 👍
Really interesting. I miss the Balenciaga line, I thought florabotanica and balenciaga paris were so much more interesting than a lot of designer fare at similar price point. I also miss Stella
Absolutely! I own both and cherish them! They were a very artistic feeling fragrance brand. 🥰
Thank you so much for this informative video, Claire! 🦋🧡🦋
No worries! Thank you 🥰
What a thorough and informative look into discontinuations - loved watching this, Claire. Michael Kors Signature and Ralph Lauren’s Lauren are the two discontinued scents I mourn the most. It’s almost impossible to find either and of course the prices can be exorbitant on secondhand platforms. Fortunately a kind soul emerges every now and then with a bottle for a good price but you’ve got to be quick to catch those, don’t you?!
Thank you ❤️ Yes! Eyes open and ready to pounce! 🤣 The best opportunities are where someone doesn't quite know what they have and they mislabel it as being something else. Thorough examination of photos can reap inexpensive gems! Thanks for watching ❤️
Love this video. So informative on why things are discontinued.
Thank you 😊
And it’s funny how the trend on fragrance changes so much sometimes.
Fragrances I wore in my 20s with vanilla, I thought we’re so sweet at the time. But now with the gourmands, they don’t seem sweet at all. 😅
Yes! Same! 😂 Some modern gourmands really take sweetness to a whole other level! 🥰
As always on your chanel Miss Claire, learned SO MUCH! Great post!
Thank you ❤️ I'm happy that you enjoyed it 🥰
Hey there thank you for sharing and I agree with you. Hope you enjoy the rest of your day ❤
Thanks for watching 🥰
I just made a decent fragrance purchase from FragranceBuy and they sent me a decant of Teo Cabanel's OHA, which is from 2006, I think. It was obviously not a "recent" Fragrance, by the smell of it but I'm so glad they sent it because it's really beautiful and it would never have been on my radar, otherwise.
I love T Cabanel and I have a few perfumes from them, OHa included . The most beautiful in my collection are Alahine and Lace Garden. I'm from Paris and live close to their boutique.
Teo Cabanel have some nice ones! I really liked Café Cabanel, Je Ne Sais Quoi and Oh Là Là when I tried those! I would love to try more. What a fab choice for a decant! 🥰
You explained and issected this topic in detail, Claire. The reasons you mentioned account for the majority of discontinued fragrances. I dare to add simple and obvious one: inflation ! There are so many new releases that brands are forced to discontinue old fragrances to make room for the new ones !
This video is yet another enjoyable reasoninig of yours, Claire !!!
Thank you! ❤️ Yes, brands need to consolidate their catalogue of offerings and new is always more exciting and creates buzz! Thanks for watching 🥰
Hey Claire! Another great video. You covered so many facets of the reasonings behind discontinuing fragrances and I suspect there are many more.
Yes! The whole subject is shrouded in mystery and rumour isn't it? I would love for companies to just say what their reason are for the decisions that they take with their fragrance lines, it would be so interesting to know! 🥰
Excellent video! outside of regulations, reformulations is another way to increase profits by making the "same" product with cheaper ingredients/materials.
Yes, it is! Even small savings on large quantities add up. Have a lovely Sunday. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hey Claire. I always enjoy these videos. I learned a lot. One of my favorite discontinued fragrances is Si Fiori
Thank you ❤️ Yes! That was a stunner 😍
So sad that Bottega Venetta is gone. I used to wear New West, but that was discontinued as well. I now wear Jo Malone, which i really like. Hopefully, that doesn't get discontinued, too. Thanks for the awesome video, i had no idea why perfumes disappeared other than poor sales.
I do think poor sales is the main reason but yes, there are others too for sure and some are somewhat beyond the brand's control. I do think a new launch drives business these days though sadly and that is fuelling the huge turnover of fragrances on the market these days. Thanks for watching 🥰
Lancome's magie noire is my all time favorite, and then it got reformulated. It was a shame. Wish I knew why
That's a shame! I know Magie Noire was loved. I have never tried it but I've heard others talk about it. Thanks for watching 🥰
Hi Claire. It is disappointing when a fragrance you love gets discontinued. Always great information. I appreciate that.
Thank you! Have a lovely Sunday 🥰
That's so interesting about the name changes! I had no idea about any of them. Thank you for such an informative video 💚💚💚
No worries! Thank you 🥰
That's such a shame! Fantastic video, as always very insightful xx
Thank you 🥰
Thanks for another terrific video! I can't really think of any fragrances I loved that were discontinued totally...they've just been reformulated over the years until they're unidentifiable. I do think that Bottega Veneta EDP is a great loss, that one was unique and beautiful.
Thank Jim! Well that's good! 😊 I hope your run of luck continues 😂 I'm pleased to have a couple of partial bottles of Bottega Veneta EDP 😉 have a lovely week 🥰
I miss Mugler Alien Flora Futura edt.....gorgeous floral, but with an edge. Also a favourite of mine was Kenzo Flower Eau de lumiere...not available anymore in French fragrance stores.
..
I did try Flora Futura when that was about, I've never tried the Lumière though... It's a shame when fragrances that we love disappear. Thanks for watching 🥰
And I just wanted to comment again (because I’ve said this before) You have an incredibly aesthetically pleasing face. I get mesmerized by your eyes and sometimes have to rewind because I get distracted and miss what you’re talking about. lol That along with your information is a great combination. 😊
🤣 thank you! ❤️ That's funny 🤣 I'm happy that you enjoyed the video! 🥰
Ohh my goodness I had flowers by kenzo and was obsessed for a long time ,
My friend wore it at school and I remember her showing me the bottle! I'd never seen it before and it really intrigued me! 🥰
Hi Claire, this is a very complete view of the subject. I suppose when we mourn something discontinued we have to accept and find another perfume as wonderful if different, there is so much out there. I would have given the advice to turn to the second-hand market to replace a beloved scent, it used to be affordable but that's less and less the case. The culprit is our memory, we idolise some perfumes from our past sometimes and see them as irreplaceable. I'm guilty of doing this as well.
Yes! You are absolutely right! I have chased discontinued fragrances that I've never smelt and ultimately I've realised that often I don't find them as special as others who smelt them at the time do! Our emotions and memories are very connected to how good we think things are for sure. Thanks for watching 🥰
Amongst the female marketed fragrances my favourite discountinued one has to be Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier. As for the male marketed fragrances the two I really enjoyed in my 20s were Tempore Uomo by Laura Biagotti and Casran by Chopard, sadly no longer available.
Great video😊
Thank you! Did you dare retry Fragile when JPG recently re-released it? 🥰
They re-released it? WOW! I’d love to try it just to see if it is as good as I remember it to be😊
Hang on, it think I mixed it up with Gaultier 2 🤦♀️ sorry! They re-released that I think 🤦♀️
@@dr.claire.perfume I used to own the first Gaultier 2 edition but its re-launch didn’t really excite me. Also I don’t think G2 is available in the EU.
@@Kylinmere oh wow, so the UK got it but the EU didn't, that's horrendous! I know it was only available from the JPG website directly and only for a limited time. 🤷♀️ They made such a fuss about it! You'd think they'd at least make it available!
Immediate [commercial] success certainly a big factor, and social medai platforms are now playing larger roles. Good point about re-releasing fragrances to keep them on trend. Although a lot of the "limited editions" and year editions probably also have a lot to do with manufacturing stumbles, cost and.....profit. Really though, reforms are a very standard and ongoing part of the day-to-day working at major fragrance and flavours companies. Makes sense to have back-up formulas for their clients ready just in case of a mishap or legal amendment. Loved the vid Claire! 💙
Thank you ❤️ I do think that simple profitability is the biggest reason here. And for sure, fragrance is absolutely now part of the fast fashion what's new world of social media. Thanks for watching 🥰
Wow, I didn’t know anything of this. Thank you so much for your insight. I was so sad that I couldn’t get my hands on to my favorite fragrance back in the day. Joop Nuit d‘ete. 😢
Thank you! I'm happy that you enjoyed this. Yes it's sad when our favourites disappear without warning. Joop have some lovely fragrances, I've tried quite a few but only own le Bain. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thanks Claire! Appreciate the information!
Thank you 🥰
Hi Claire! Thank you for making this video. I have been researching this topic a lot. Sad 😭
Oh no worries! And yes I know! It's very sad. 🥰
Ricci Club by Nina Ricci. I wore that till the bitter end. Got my first bottle in ‘92. Stopped when a bottle started going for $250. Most do not even know of it but it was just magnificent. Wore it during the fall. It and Chanel Pour Monsieur are what started me on my fragrance journey. Still looking for a replacement to Ricci Club. If anyone reads this and knows of one please do tell. I would very much appreciate it.
I haven't tried it, but a few people seem to suggest cologne 154 by Jo Malone on Fragrantica, although from my experience, those "smells like" listings can be wildly inaccurate. Good luck finding something 🤞 thanks for watching 🥰
Such an informative presentation. It is so helpful to get a bird's eye view of the fragrance industry. Please continue to do this periodically. There is more to this hobby than just sniffing and wearing scents.
I actually have lots of videos like this one, you can find them in my playlists. I have videos discussing clone fragrances, floriography, the fragrance wheel, the importance of the idea of colour in fragrance, why we love musk, what petrichor is, what solar fragrances are and many others. I hope that helps! 🥰
Very interesting topic. Thank you for the video. I didn't understand why Nirmala was an issue for Angel - Nirmala was released much earlier and in fact I've seen somebody saying it was a scent that Mugler's mother was wearing. Was Nirmala reformulated? I've tested it's current version and it was a reallly nice Mango scent.
Thank you ❤️ Yes! It was reformulated so it wasn't quite so close! I do think it gets compared to Angel Eau Croisière 2019 now. I think there have been a few different versions of it that smell quite different. Molinard did make the argument that it was the older fragrance because of this, but they lost their case because the earlier version smelt more like Chanel no 5. 🤣
@@dr.claire.perfume I guess it's one of the rare cases when the smell was sued. Nowadays, mainly names and bottles are questioned and most of the court cases related to the smell were lost so I believe now even total smell dupes are legal unless they have too similar name or bottle.
Absolutely! If you haven't seen it already, you can check out my Clone perfumes video where I discuss some of the successful and unsuccessful legal cases and what can be patented and what not. 🥰
Hello, first time commenting 😊. I have Chanel No. 19 EDT 50ml bottle in the refillable grey case from about 30 years ago. I’ve used most of it except for the last few drops which I like to smell every now and again. I don’t think refills exist for the grey case. These days I rarely wear perfume, instead I prefer perfumed toiletries. A few years ago I was looking for toiletries for No. 19 but then I discovered the toiletries were discontinued! I managed to purchase a No. 19 body spray which unfortunately doesn’t smell of No. 19 at all. It had lost its scent when I purchased it (I managed to obtain a refund). I then bought the soap. Fortunately the soap does smell of Chanel No. 19. Interesting video, thank you.
That's lucky! I think soap does tend to hold fragrance for longer than body sprays in my own experience. I really love 19 poudré but I haven't owned either that nor 19. The fragrances are even quite rare to find in shops, it has to be a larger store to stock either! I'm happy you found something to bring back the scent memory for you. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you, Claire !
That was so thorough and informative !
My favourite discontinued fragrance was Society by Burberry (I think it's discontinued?)
Thank you ❤️ ooh I've never even seen a bottle of that fragrance! It must be a gem! Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Yes it is ! I wore it as a teenager & loved it so much ,.. The other month I saw someone was selling it & I was too slow on the uptake so it was gone. Yet I still hold the lovely memory. Take care, and thanks again for your lovely videos !
Oh that's me all the time, I dither and miss things! It probably saves me a fortune 😂 hopefully another one will appear at some point! 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume yes exactly ! it wsant that urgent... and I guess that I already had my time wearing that perfume, so perhaps it was also funny revisiting that scent as an adult ?
Yes, re saving money !!!
very funny and VERY true !
Sometimes the memory is better than the reality when you resmell them! But not always! And yes, you saved money 😂
I loved Versace Versus for men and Balenciaga Pour Homme - sadly, both are long discontinued - a pity I didn't buy more when I had the chance. If I like something now, i tend to buy at least another bottle for storage....
It's difficult isn't it? Because sometimes when you first buy something, you just don't know if in the long term it will be a love. Then by the time you realise that you want another bottle, it's gone. You have a sensible strategy.
Hi Claire. I also have the Ricci Ricci perfume. I don’t wear it, I use it as a room spray. I’ll keep the bottle when it’s empty and display it in the bathroom cabinet when it’s finished. I once had a set of 5ml bottles of Gucci gorgeous magnolia, gardenia etc in the old style clear glass bottles. Went to check out the new gardenia on in the floral bottle. Not the same scent, so haven’t replaced. 😃🇦🇺
Hello! My Ricci Ricci has now found a loving new home 😉 the bottle is stunning though! Those older Gucci Flora flankers were lovely 😍 I discovered them too late though as they were already disappearing. Have a fab week! 🥰
Completely heartbroken about the formulation change from the original 80s/90s Poison EDT. The present day version is a ghost of its former beauty. I really miss it and will likely buy a vintage bottle of it in the near future.
LOVE the original Poison! Bought it for my girlfriend back then. Really miss that perfume. Hope you can find your vintage bottle soon.
@@McAmeron089III aww. Thank you! That’s kind of you to wish me well on my hunt 💜.
Be careful! There are so many Dior fakes out there! Thanks for watching 🥰
I had a bottle in the 80s but so many people were allergic to it or got headaches when I wore it
@@tracycameron2580 aww. That’s so sad. In the 90s my stepmom wore it every single day and our house and cars always smelled like Dior Poison and cigarettes 😂. She was an elegant woman with a hard bad girl edge. I have a lot of powerful memories related to that perfume. I loved and respected her deeply and miss her to this day. She taught me so much 💜.
Really interesting topic! I’m pretty sad about Mugler. But I actually don’t mind the direction that Amouage has gone in. I still like their originals but they have come out with some good ones recently too, in addition to the more crowd pleasing ones like Love Delight. I’m actually really enjoying Lineage and Crimson Rocks now. I wouldn’t call Guidance a crowd pleaser. It’s not my favorite- I prefer Lineage but it is definitely unique and intriguing
Amouage have certainly diversified, they have the more friendly ones and some more challenging ones. I'm sure that's more profitable for them, so hopefully they keep the mix!
Mugler on the other hand 🤦♀️ I do still try the new ones, but in my heart of hearts, I know they aren't for me any longer. Thanks for watching 🥰
Have you tried Creed/ dark purple bottle. It smells just like Mugler Alien to me. Check it out. I think it's called Silk. When fragrances are discontinued, I think someone buys the right to own that particular smell. Because it always comes out again in a pretty bottle being owned by someone else.
Yes, it's the tuberose, ambroxan and saffron one isn't it? I reviewed it I think 🤔 interesting point about discontinued fragrances, I think brands do tend to copy what people have nostalgia for. It's a surer way of success!
I'm curious to know why Balenciaga discontinued all their fragrances. I know they royally f%&ked up their reputation with that utterly bizarre campaign...but they are trying to rebuild their fashion line. I would not wear their brand but their fragrances were OUTSTANDING. As far as designer fragrances go all of theirs were really unique and special.
I'm gutted by the discontinuation of Gucci by Gucci, it was so good.
To me, the designer houses really peaked between 1995 and 2005 and maybe a few years either side. A golden era! Yves Saint Laurent was on fire in the 90s. The Dior 90s line! (the Poisons, Addict, Dune and J'adore) If Dior discontinues these I will never forgive them. I know some people complain about the reformulations of Addict and Dune but I find them close enough that they evoke the happy memories and I am soooo glad they are still being made.
Seems to me the designer houses play it much more safe these days and most of them are frankly just BORING.
Another great and interesting video thanks Claire! I would like to see a trend go round on Perfume UA-cam where everyone picks their top designer fragrances from decades past that could be released today as niche. Eden, Ultraviolet, Dune, and YSLs Vice Versa would be on my list. Truly creative and outside the box.
I agree with you that there was a golden age of designer fragrance that is sadly gone. Nowadays everything seems to smell much of muchness, I agree, I find new releases boring in comparison to older fragrances, which is why my collection is mostly discontinued and why I don't rush to review new designer fragrances because on the whole, they just don't interest me.
I'm not sure of the timeline but I think Balenciaga had that seriously off campaign after they discontinued their fragrance line. Who knows what they were thinking but clearly they've not had the best direction over the last few years... Thanks for watching 🥰
They already butchered the original Addict. I have two bottles of the original. I have not tried a modern Poison but I have an 80s Poison Parfum de Toilette that’s amazing. Dune… if they discontinue Dune, I’m going to cry! I LOVE Dune.
I need to try Dune! I am stalking secondhand bottle of it all the time and looking for a deal 🤣
I don’t think I’d ever get over Marc Jacobs Decadence being discontinued 😢
That one is missed 😢
This was awesome Claire! That Ricci Ricci bottle is like a piece of art! Yes I've noticed that brands like Amouage have been becoming more mainstream in their scent profiles.. it does make sense I guess but it's just how it goes. It's sad when one of our faves gets discontinued, but it helps a bit to know that sometimes there are legitimate reasons 😌💛
Yes! Things move on and that in part is what makes all of this exciting! It's all about the search for the "one" or perhaps the many 😂 Amouage have for sure become more mainstream niche, and who can blame them? Brands go where the money is... Have a fab weekend ❤️. Thanks for watching 🥰
Love your content and how you pronounce 'perhaps'. 🥰 non-native English speaker here! 🇪🇸
The quickest "perhaps" ever! Love it!
Very efficient and lovely voice.
😂 that is very interesting to read! 🥰
Thank you! 🥰
I grew up speaking Hillbilly;so,I get three syllables out of the word perhaps. 😀
🤣
Crabtree & Evelyn had some of my favourite fragrances; "India Hicks Island Living-Spider Lily, Verandah and Spring Rain".
L'Occitane is the worst company for discontinuing their fragrances, im looking at you, "Arlesiennqe and Terre de Lumiere".
I have an empty bottle of "Heaven Scent" by Helena Rubinstein, from the 80s. I can still smell the scent and it takes me back to being a teenager and wearing my Nana's perfume.
I agree, L'occitane are very unpredictable. Many of their fragrances are one season only and then gone and you might only see them again in a sale selection a year later. Terre de Lumière was loved but I think I heard that they were or had brought that one back? 🤔 Thanks for watching 🥰
Fifty percent of my collection consists of discontinued fragrances. I tend to like softer but more complex fragrances which is not the direction of perfumery these days.
Yes, me too, probably 50% of my collection is discontinued. I love trying older designer fragrances because I normally enjoy them more than what's new to the market now. Thanks for watching 🥰
What you said about the Miss Dior line essentially being new fragrances but released under that name, it seems similar to what they did with the Dior Homme line with both the Homme and Homme Sport fragrances. I guess I was hoping that they would stick to the 2020 Homme/2021 Homme Sport versions because they seem to be strong sellers, but what you said make so much sense that I can see them moving on from them as well. Is that the sense you get from that line?
I ask because I'm a man of modest means and a full bottle purchase is non-trivial for me. I've recently discovered that I like fragrances so I've started sampling a lot, Homme and particularly Homme Sport are my favorites by a considerable margin, I want to get a fragrance that's good for all occasions and just wear it, but I would be heartbroken to get a fragrance that's kinda 'my scent' only for it to become discontinued.
Maybe that's just the climate we're in now, besides very successful fragrances like Blue de Chanel and Sauvage, I'm not sure how many fragrances from now will still be available in the future in the way you can still buy Polo Green and Fahrenheit.
Another great video Claire, thank you!
I think you are spot on, the times of a classic fragrance being sold for decades is probably mostly over. Dior have had a massive hit with Sauvage and they are keen to hang onto that success. I think within the general public, there is immense loyalty to some lines and Sauvage is one of those.
Yes, I see Dior Homme as an equivalent with Miss Dior, a similar idea with frequent reformulation and relaunch. I think everyone was shocked when the soft iris went to a woodier fresher feel for Homme in 2020, but I can't say I know much about the differences between the 2020 and the 2023. I actually loved the 2011 version but that's long gone 🤣 I'd be very happy to have a bottle of that. I think there might have been cost implications perhaps, or perhaps Dior were wanting that original version to form the basis of one of the Privée line and didn't want that style in the mainline. Also they've changed perfumers since 2020, so perhaps Dior wanted Kurkdjian's name attached to it to refresh interest? I don't know! It was so popular anyway! 🤷♀️
I've not tried Homme Sport, I will go spray the current formulation next time I'm in store.
Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thank you so much for the excellent reply!
I'm glad you're going to give the current version of Dior Homme Sport a try, I can't recommend it enough. It's my favorite fragrance by a fairly considerable margin. I do like the regular Dior Homme as well, they're (of course) somewhat similar, but the difference in the Sport version just makes it perfect in my opinion.
Thanks again Claire, have a great weekend!
You too! I am actually so curious! I will make a beeline for it next time I walk through town. 🥰
Florabotanica is such a unique scent. I'm sad it has been discontinued.
@@donellemckie2612 it is! I cherish my bottle. Thanks for watching 🥰
Great video, although slightly alarmed now about how many of my perfumes seem to have lilial in them.... Also confused as to how Mugler and Clarins could come for Molinard, considering Nirmala came out in the 1950's? Surely Molinard should have come for Mugler for Angel's similarity to Nirmala?!
Absolutely! I think lilial was a big headache for a lot of brands because even if LOTV isn't listed, it's still used to mimic lilac or just general florals, so it was in LOADS.
And yes! That was Molinard's counter argument, but they still lost...Molinard said that it was the older fragrance, but they lost because it had been reformulated and that was what Clarins were upset by, the later version, not the earlier version that smelt more like Chanel no 5 which they weren't fussed by 🤣 Nirmala was then reformulated after the case so that it wasn't quite so close, but from reading, I think it gets compared to Angel Eau Croisière 2019 now 🤷♀️. I think there have been a few different versions of it that smell quite different basically! Thanks for watching
I really miss Bond no 9 Union Square. I discovered this scent in my early 20s back when it was called Andy Warhol Union Square. Anytime I needed a fragrance that would make me feel confident, that was the one I pulled for. I’d say I have too many perfumes now but I don’t have anything that makes me feel that way.
Yes I know what you mean about too many. I've been trying to reduce my collection this year and so far so good. I think sometimes more isn't necessarily more. Those ones that make you feel are the precious ones for sure! Thanks for watching 🥰
I really don’t know what to think about ifra, on one hand - they are making perfume safer somewhat. But then there is also the argument that if cigarettes and alcohol etc are legal - substances that are much more dangerous to a person, why would there be so much control over perfume that you don’t even ingest. Especially the oak moss case is annoying, as it seems that they used the ban to just sell their alternative synthetic version.
I guess because there aren't huge opportunities to heavily tax fragrance at huge percentages and alcohol and cigarettes are things that people know the risks of. How many non fragrance obsessives even know what oakmoss is? Fragrance is seen by the general public as something beautifying and enhancing. I think any cosmetic product, as fragrance is considered to be, has quite a lot of regulation with regard to ingredients and that is only becoming stricter. Really the EU wanted to ban oakmoss entirely, but IFRA negotiated to have a limit for the % of oakmoss instead, even if it is a low one, and brands are still allowed to use oakmoss with the atranol and chloroatranol components removed, e.g. Guerlain use that. I do agree that IFRA changes do create suspicions though because the are a trade body that effectively promotes industry made ingredients that are considered alternatives. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thanks for watching 🥰
My favorite discontinued perfume was an Alien flanker that was just a limited edition but it was the les parfums de cuir version.
Aah that's another reason! Limited editions that are a type of built in obsolescence for fragrance lines! Mugler had some absolute stunners 😍 I'm sorry I missed that one! It sounds gorgeous, I love leather ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
The ways of the perfume industry are a mystery, so thank you for your illuminations. The Oak Moss Crisis 😅I've heard people mourn the loss. I was reading about vanilla, and how climate change is effecting cultivation. Apparently fragrance and food industries are looking for synethic equivalents. It's true, isn't it, how social media and virality effects parfume sales? As someone from the analog age, I recall signature scents, and having one fragrance (😳imagaine!) that I purchased in the department store (Macy's). And the scents inside magazines. Is that even done any more?
They are aren't they 🤣
Social media is really making or breaking fragrances these days, especially tik tok for designer fragrances. Me too with one bottle at a time and purchasing in store. Times have really changed. I don't remember the last time I bought a magazine but I used to love those glossy fantasy worlds! Thanks for watching 🥰
How interesting! Thank you!
Thank you ❤️ thanks for watching 🥰
I really miss one from Alfred Sung called Mei. I have absolutely no idea why it was discontinued.. It had that aquatic floral freshness, which would now be considered dated, as you said. However, I'd buy it in a second, if the original formulation became available again today.
I know! If we have strong memories and associations with particular fragrances they are things we would love to smell again! Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume I agree - & of course, I sincerely enjoy your videos! Thank *you* for the creative & informative content!💖
@@dionnemelto8224 oh thank you! 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume you're welcome!💛
Terrific video, Claire. I learned quite a bit from it - enough to make me feel like I should have watched this one before commenting on your clone video. Perhaps it has made me feel just a bit more sympathetic to the designer houses and the marketing games they play. But only a bit. I mean, let's not get crazy here. 😉
P.S. I own quite a number of Maison Alhambra frags, so I was interested to see your well-presented update on their packaging/presentation changes. Isn't it ironic that they were forced to change everything except the thing that matters most - the juice inside? 😆 Strange world.
Yeah, I don't think it's always the companies choosing to reformulate. Lilial was in a heck of a lot of fragrances and must have forced numerous reformulations and discontinuations. I can imagine that it's horrendously costly for brands and very annoying for them if they have a bestseller on their hands.
I guess Maison Alhambra can only be got on copyright infringement and clearly they were worried enough to change so that suggests that EL did have a case that they thought was winnable.
Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Speaking of banned ingredients, here's a question that's probably in your scientist's wheelhouse: Are you aware of any health concerns around the long-term use of fragrance? I've never experienced an allergic reaction, but I do wonder about possible carcinogenic effects over time.
@@BertRussell4711 I'm answering that in a q and a video soon... So many people ask me that... Basically I don't feel I'm someone who can spend the years it would take to check the research out there on every fragrance ingredient. I don't want to spread false info, so I stay away from talking about it. Anyone who discusses it in UA-cam, I would take with a humongous pinch of salt because they won't have spent enough time reading about it all and will just be paraphrasing from websites, as it would be a full time job for several years to check what you'd need to check and you still wouldn't be sure or know everything possible. 🙂
I think the same forces that mold and nudge food trends are also active in the perfume market. Massive conglomerates accrue enough data to predict years in advance the scarcity or abundance of an ingredient and begin to guide the consumer towards the upcoming "choice" being offered. Our tastes aren't really evolving -they're being created and manipulated.
I think you are onto something for sure! We definitely see trends towards particular notes, for example raspberry, peach and cherry have been particularly prominent over the last few years. It really does make you wonder! Thanks for watching 🥰
Hi Claire, I have seen Alhambras' dupes of Tom Fords on e-shop few days ago and I went: "O-oh, someone got caught" 😅😅😅
It was just rude of Alhambra, I must say I was surprised they pulled of that long with those bottles and names...
But I love my Alhambras and have a few myself.
They also changed Versencia Noir to Jubilent Noir 😄
Sending you best regards🌸
Haha, those names are pretty close aren't they?! No wonder the original brands are not happy about it. Yes! Something clearly went down and I would love to know the juicy details! 🤣 Thanks for watching 🥰
Very interesting topic, loved watching every minute of it and how you explained everything! ❤ 👍🏻
The fragrances I miss the most are Florabotanica by Balenciaga (I’ve worn it since I was 22 🥲) and Datura Noir by Serge Lutens (at least I think it’s discontinued, I can’t seem to find it anywhere)
What about you? Greetings from Germany 🫶🏻👋🏼
Thank you ❤️ and also thanks for the information! I have also been trying to find Datura Noir and have been struggling, so that explains a lot! I really do love Balenciaga Paris, I think that fragrance feels very me so I think that, Marc Jacobs Lola and Stella McCartney Stella are the fragrances that I miss the most. Thanks for watching 🥰
Thank you so much for taking the time and educating us on this topic.
I really appreciate the detailed explanation you give us in this industry.
Thank you! ❤️ I'm happy that you enjoyed this! 🥰
Two of my favs have been discontinued the past few years, AdP's Colonia Assoluta and Equipage Geranium from Hermès. I doubt either were very big sellers and could have been lopped off just for that...but it is possible there was oak moss % issues too. For sure it is smart for brands to focus on just a few lines, just a few in each line. I believe this is why Stronger With You has largely been kept out of the US market. (some stores just received the Intensely version this summer and I'm told they are selling well.) But Armani already has such a confusing story to tell to consumers, adding lines or flankers is just a mess! It seems to me they could do web only deals or seasonal limited releases. There is a famous case of a chewing gum called Black Jack gum (made famous in Twin Peaks TV show) that is only available two weeks a year. People go mad for it! Interesting video, Claire.
Wow! I didnt realise that Colonia Assoluta had been discontinued! But yes, you are right, neither was probably a big seller. I think that about a lot of Hermès in particular but Hermès stand out a bit as they have a very different feel to their fragrances that like Chanel is one of those acquired tastes. I like how so many of their lines aren't following any trend, they're just Hermès.
I find it astounding that Stronger With You hasn't been marketed more widely as the line was a huge hit in Europe. I also noticed that very few US reviewers ever spoke about Because it's You (the female marketed partner release).
Haha, I never realised that there was a Twin Peaks gum! Here there is a very 80s sweet called Black Jacks, they are chewy and sweet blackcurrant and liquorice/anise flavour and they stain your tongue black. They've been made more natural and less sugary so they aren't really the same now, but wow, I loved them! 🤣 Thanks for watching 🥰
Great video, thank you!
Thank you 🥰
There was one chypre perfume called Oligarch by Roja Parfums. It came with magnificent Russian crest in the pack. It got discontinued because of the war.
Oh wow! That's really interesting! I had no idea! I can definitely see why that wouldn't be a name that would fly right now though. It's somewhat disappointing for the brand given that they've formulated it though. I wonder if it wasn't selling well? Surely they could have renamed it, but also the bottles etc would have the name on so it wouldn't be easy... Oh what a mess! 🤦♀️
Great video Claire! My favorite discontinued fragrance is Guerlain’s Teazzurra. How about you?
Thank you! Ooh that's a hard one. I think for me, it might be Balenciaga Paris, that fragrance always feels like it was made for me. Teazurra was loved for sure! Thanks for watching 🥰
Un ejemplo de ello es Joy originalmente de Jean Patou ahora la marca Yves Saint Laurent lanzó su Joy....diferente olor...
Yes, do you mean that Dior has a fragrance called Joy? Or do YSL have one too? I think LVMH bought the Jean Patou brand no? Thanks for watching! 🥰
Can you discuss Dolce & Gabbana - the red bottle from about 25 years ago?
I've not ever tried it unfortunately, but I know it was loved. If I come across a secondhand partial at an affordable price, I will pick it up though! Thanks for watching 🥰
My favourite discontinued fragrance was tuberose gardenia by Estée Lauder and also blonde by Versace. Really strong white florals. Blonde didn't last on me but I loved it nevertheless
That's quite something isn't it? If you are willing to tolerate sub par performance, you know it's a love! It's sad when the things that we love are discontinued. Thanks for watching 🥰
My mom’s favourite is Tuberose Gardenia. Did they discontinue that? She will be upset.
It's apparently still in stock on the Estée Lauder website, so perhaps it's not discontinued 🤷♀️
McQueen Kingdom was beyond anything I’ve ever experienced and unmatched to this day
I have always wanted to try that one! I really like Blanche from Alexander McQueen. 🥰
Womanity in the US has been gone for awhile now. I missed the chance to try aura and womanity.
It's a shame that those are gone. Mugler's distribution is very Europe centred a lot of the time 🤷♀️ I don't understand as they seem popular in the US too 🥰
I would love to hear your thoughts on LE fragrances someday. Your last point made me wonder what will happen with Britney Spears fragrances amid the change in companies. I just heard about it today and the legal issues that surround the change.
LE? I'm lost 😂
Gosh yes! The Britney Spears GBB / Revlon thing is quite something! I hope if something dodgy went on, it's punished...
@@dr.claire.perfume LE- limited edition 😀.
There is a lawsuit by Revlon to 4 former employees and the company that took over the Britney contract. Jen Luvs covered it a bit in her video yesterday. It sounds like they plotted to steal information.
Oh! I get it! Lol 🤣
I read some news articles about it and yes, it sounds like it. I checked GBB's website yesterday, some of their "core values" look very dubious in the light of what's happened. 🤣 The Britney catalogue is huge and will be a major blow to Revlon/ EA.
I feel like we feel it the most with legendary fragrances like Dior J'Adore and Hypnose Lancome, and so on. They used so be different! It's just so obcious it's too much
I agree, if reformulation is going to noticeably alter the fragrance, then perhaps the brand should make it clearer that a reformulation had happened, that would prevent disappointment. 🥰
Hi Claire! Thank you for your high quality videos.
I’ve been trying to find an answer to 2 questions online without success, and I was wondering if you knew the answers.
1. Storing fragrances. I heard that it’s better to store fragrances away from sunlight (because of UV rays) and away from humidity and heat. They say it’s bad to store fragrances in bathrooms. I keep my perfumes in a drawer in my bathroom (away from light) but it’s hard to believe that humidity and heat can affect the fragrance when it has a cap on. The only moment it could affect it, if when spraying because that’s when the ambiant air goes into the bottle to compensate the liquid leaving. So I only spray my perfumes in the corridor (more cool and dry) (if the bathroom is hot or humid). Am I correct?
2. If I leave a perfume mist without its cap, will some of the alcohol evaporate, resulting in a more concentrated fragrance?
Thank you so much!
I don't know whether you've seen this video, but it might help a little: ua-cam.com/video/YxSjux0-IVc/v-deo.html
I think it's all opinion really, has anyone tested any of this scientifically? No. It's all just trying to apply logic.
1. Basically the amount of humid air entering the bottle will be very little I think, because of how you are using the fragrances (taking them out of the bathroom to spray) but there will still be a very minimal amount of air exchange with the nozzle when the fragrances aren't being sprayed. I think the not in the bathroom advice is also to do with the variation in temperature of the bathroom to some extent as they get hot and cold quickly. Fragrance keeps best in cool constant temperature dry conditions, however in a drawer, how much heating can there be? I guess you will know better. Liquids take a long time to change in temperature significantly.
2. Leaving a fragrance without a cap will again minimally affect how a fragrance keeps. Ideally a cap should be used, but many bottles are designed without caps, e.g. Gucci Rush. Caps act as a secondary barrier to air exchange with the nozzle. Over time (many years) and use all fragrance will lose some alcohol, but the partial pressure within the bottle is reestablished quickly after spraying, so I really think, other than what is sprayed out, which is proportional to the oil, nothing significant will be lost if the atomiser is a good functional one and you are not leaving the fragrance over many many years.
Hope that helps! 🥰
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer! I greatly appreciate it :)
No worries ☺️
I miss the original formulation of Glossier You 😭😭😭
I’ve read that Montagne has a dupe (called Moi?) really close to the old formulation but I haven’t personally tried it
@@AirBeat-lk3pl thank you! 🙏🏼 I’ll have to check it out
Oh wow! I had no idea it had been reformulated... I'm so glad that I didn't pick up a new bottle now when I finished my old one. I did umm and ahh about it! Thanks for the information 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume yes in 2020 they changed their formulation because it had lilial in it. This was also in the original W by Banana Republic that was released in ‘95 and later discontinued. That was also one of my signature scents. Apparently lilial went really well with my skin chemistry because I had more compliments whenever I wore those two perfumes then I ever get now. So so sad that it’s now banned
This one still breaks my heart. It was only banned in the UK so I don’t understand why they don’t just sell two different versions, one without the lillial. I only say this because thr fan outcry for the OG continues all over the internet to this day.
When I really think about it, I'm not actually too bothered about discontinuations.
When I think back to my old signature fragrance, Dior's Midnight Poison... whilst I would like to own a small bottle just to smell occasionally, I prefer that they discontinued it rather than reformulating it to something that would smell in any way different to the original. Besides, its not me any more. I guess it represents a certain period in my life that I am happy is in my past.
If I think about my current loves in my stash, yes, I'd be sad if any of them suddenly went and I couldn't repurchase them, but I would just have to find another perfume to love, it wouldn't exactly be a loss in my life 🤷♀️ I dunno, maybe I am not that sentimental when it comes to perfume 😂
Interesting and thought provoking video, Claire, thank you 🙌
I've learnt to be more philosophical about it. It doesn't do to dwell and ultimately I'm pretty fickle, there aren't many fragrances that I would choose to repurchase, I'm always wanting to explore, but I do love trying vintage designer fragrances ☺️
I agree with you, fragrances can act as time capsules can't they? Sniffing them takes you back to a time and a place and the fact that some fragrances disappear makes that even more precious. ✨
Have a lovely week! Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume yes spot on, they were a time and a place 💫 have a good week to you too 😘
Thank you 😊
The one I really miss is Eau de Patou with the beautiful conic bottle
I've not tried that one, and I guess now, I never will! What a shame! Thanks for watching 🥰
I’m wondering how all the dupe fragrances will affect the big names?
I don't know whether you've seen this already, but I have this video talking about the effects of clones on popular fragrances ua-cam.com/video/hj-dULOUonU/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching 🥰
@@dr.claire.perfume Thanks!
No problem 👍
Still wondering why they discontinued Acqua Di Gio Profumo. They relaunched it a month later with slightly less incense, and have now relaunched it Again with more incense. What are they doing over there?
🤣 that indeed sounds quite mad 🤣 I had no clue that had happened! It sounds like a mess 🤣
@dr.claire.perfume The fragrance community has multiple times awarded it as one of the greatest (or The greatest) Fragrance. Still, it got disconnected.
It's a strange decision isn't it? 🤔