Wow just communicated with you and mentioned about this and just now came upon this video. I really think mine is disconnected, I’ll check it out more tomorrow. I just want to say Garrett thanks for all your patience with us viewers that don’t make it through all your videos yet and ask you the SAME OLD QUESTIONS. Your a great sport and no matter what keep on helping us more & more. ****More viewers should try & donate $$ something to you for the service you provide. This is similar like going to diesel mechanic school . Thanks Garrett.
Mine just started doing exactly what you said is the most common complaint. THANKS for this video. I’m definitely gonna do the delete on mine. Awesome channel man! Thanks!!!!!!
Sorry to add another comment but, I couldn’t find any way to message you. I just wanted to thank you again for this video. I got this accomplished this weekend and this video definitely helped! Thanks again and keep up the informative videos.
I had to do this as well...discovered the leak when I was leak checking the fuel system after doing the spin on filter conversion. It was pretty bad leak too, 15+ drops a minute (quick math there). Scary to think I could’ve lost the truck to this! Thanks for the video!
@tacticalrepair do you have any experience with coolant heater installs on an m35a2? I have a south wind 939j24 with no manual and I’m trying to figure out where to install it and what the exact wiring schematic is. I got the heater to run in the bench but have no clue where to mount it and where to tap into the coolant lines and fuel lines
Thank you. Can we just cap off the supply line at the pump and leave the rest of the parts on the truck??? It's always in interesting conversation piece when someone looks my Deuce engine.
I definitely dont want my M35 to catch on fire!!! So if i delete this heater from mine and i dont have a eether injection, neither. What mods and products do you recommend for cold starts? Would a block plug heater work fine, or is there more i can do?
Thanks Garrett, very informative info. I'll be doing this tomorrow. What I found more informative was that 2 people gave a thumbs down on this video, Really? You've been given some sound advice and you still complain about the message. Some people need to move on. SMH
Hey Garrett thanks for this video! Didn’t know it existed till now..... when I just was wrapping up installing my pyrometer, and in the process, smaller line that goes to the flame heater injector ... it very slightly dripples fuel ... question is.... capping with 1/4” plug at injector and removing T from injector return line should solve this correct? Also I’m assuming that if it’s been coming thru like that, it’s been going into my intake or I guess I just realize that assuming that valve is functional, it’s been stopping there just before intake... I plan on removing all of the components but as of right now, I have only the 1/4 inch plug and crush barrels on hand and not the plugs for the spark plug and injector
Apparently at some point in the past I had offered my advice to someone and you were giving me shit about it. You were on my blocked list, and I don't recall blocking you for being irritating.😄 Anyway, I'll send you a request.
@@tacticalrepairdamn bro I can’t recall such incident.... Them was rough times... what I remember was I was meaning to call you but I kept putting it off until the day I dropped my phone in the lake, lost everything, literally. Much to catch up on
Taking off the fuel feed line to the heater looks like it's gonna suck to take off. It looks like the steering box is gonna be in the way. I'm gonna attempted tomorrow I'll let you know how it goes.
Ok a Air Force M35A2.... How dose the duel circuit brake system work on it?!?! That's the video I want to see, how to make one or adapt a Army M35A2 to the dual circuit AF style.
Thanks for that info,.....I think I will just block off the supply line at the bottom of the pump under the HH like you showed and leave the rest so it looks complete on mine as my injector is leaking at the back and dripping onto my turbo and being in the 'Land Down Under' needing that heater isn't a high priority for me. I'll need to block the line at the T junction so I don't get fuel from the engine injectors feeding back from there to that injector at the elbow,....Aussie.
Garrett, My flame heater is leaking fuel onto my turbo so I need to take the fuel out of the loop, but for now I think I might want to keep all the flame heater components in place in case I ever decided to replace or rebuild the manifold heater set-up... and so I dont have to guess as to what threads the 2 holes in the "elbow" are that I would have to plug up if I removed the items that are currently threaded into the 2 holes in the "elbow". So, at bare minimum I need to... 1. Plug off the supply line that originates from the bottom of the injector pump with a NPT pipe cap. 2. Use another NPT pipe cap to cap off the one junction/inlet port on the "T" fitting (about mid-way on the engine) that serves as the fuel return line (fattest line) from the manifold heater injector that returns fuel to the same main fuel line that supplies the 6 fuel injectors that squirt fuel to each corresponding engine cylinder. Then just leave all the remaining manifold heater stuff in place in case I want to try to fix it someday. Does that sound right, 2 NPT pipe caps at bare minimum? Also, what do I use as sealant on the threads that can tolerate diesel fuel? Now, could I some time later use one of the threaded holes (either injector hole or spark plug hole) in that "elbow" for a boost gauge? And use the 24 volt hot wire from the flame heater toggle switch inside the cab for an acessory like a train horn or some other type of cool "momentary on" accessory? Thank you, Shane
As I think more about leaving the injector and spark plug in the intake "elbow" in place just to act as plugs that I know fit the threaded holes they are already plugging up, and also affording me the option of some day getting the flame heater system working correctly.. I can also reason that if that elbow fuel injector is leaking/failing, because of bad O rings or seat valve in the "guts" of it...then it could possibly also leak air either in or out and could possibly cause a vacuum leak, boost leak, or a combination of both which could obviously negatively affect engine performance. Maybe I can also cap off the existing injector and make sure it is air tight without just substituting it with some other close but not exact size plug that has to be re-tapped or forced to chew it's own new custom threads. I still think it would be great if I could re-purpose the more common 3/8 inch NPT spark plug threaded hole in the intake elbow for a boost gauge sensor. Shane
@@ScottHamilton-hb9sb they're a common point of failure, and when they fail it can lead to catastrophic engine damage or an engine bay fire. Even the military removed them from engines during the final overhaul run and replaced them with ether start kits.
You said it yourself. It works great WHEN it works, which isn't common. They're very problematic and exhibit multiple modes of failure. Replacement parts for them aren't plentiful or easy to find anymore either. The nozzles have a habit of leaking either into the intake, causing excessive smoking, ring wash, cylinder wear, and in some cases burnt pistons or hydro lock. When they leak externally, they leak directly onto the exhaust housing of the turbo. This has been responsible for a metric shit- ton of engine fires and burnt down trucks. It was such an issue that most all of your depot overhauled canned engines have the flame heater deleted and they come with an ether start kit to install instead. Not to mention, most people don't live or operate these trucks in a place that gets cold enough to need these flame heaters. They actually start quite easily down to around 0°F with no assistance, assuming the valves are adjusted well and everything in the fuel system is in good shape.
@@tacticalrepair Perkins diesel engines have a similar system which is cheap and readily available it's called Thermostart. Not sure if it can be easily retrofitted but only takes 12v power and fuel.
@@In2investing yeah I remember that since you mentioned it. I'm certain it could be retrofitted if someone needs it. But like I mentioned, most guys that own these trucks live in areas where they aren't really ever needed. Then I've been seeing more and more people installing different kinds of coolant heaters when they do live in cold climates. I just don't see it being necessary anymore unless you live in a truly arctic climate.
it is 20 below zero and i was looking for a video on using intake flame heater, not removing it. thanx for explanation.
Wow just communicated with you and mentioned about this and just now came upon this video. I really think mine is disconnected, I’ll check it out more tomorrow.
I just want to say Garrett thanks for all your patience with us viewers that don’t make it through all your videos yet and ask you the SAME OLD QUESTIONS.
Your a great sport and no matter what keep on helping us more & more.
****More viewers should try & donate $$ something to you for the service you provide. This is similar like going to diesel mechanic school . Thanks Garrett.
My next step. Thanks for all your knowledge and great videos!!! You are a tremendous help to the deuce community!!!
And that’s what I needed. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Mine just started doing exactly what you said is the most common complaint. THANKS for this video. I’m definitely gonna do the delete on mine. Awesome channel man! Thanks!!!!!!
Yup!
Mine too, just saw it today when repairing the heater core/hoses
Sorry to add another comment but, I couldn’t find any way to message you. I just wanted to thank you again for this video. I got this accomplished this weekend and this video definitely helped! Thanks again and keep up the informative videos.
Absolutely fantastic video!! Extremely helpful
Thank you bossman
I had to do this as well...discovered the leak when I was leak checking the fuel system after doing the spin on filter conversion. It was pretty bad leak too, 15+ drops a minute (quick math there). Scary to think I could’ve lost the truck to this! Thanks for the video!
Glad you found that!
I just did this last fall. Glad I did.
@tacticalrepair do you have any experience with coolant heater installs on an m35a2? I have a south wind 939j24 with no manual and I’m trying to figure out where to install it and what the exact wiring schematic is. I got the heater to run in the bench but have no clue where to mount it and where to tap into the coolant lines and fuel lines
@@flyingprepper no I don't. I wish I could help you but I don't want to give you bad information.
I have a 67 and it doesn't have all that? It does the same thing but it burns inside a small chamber with a visible flame? Does that make any sense.
Wow my memory is trash. Engine swap, had to watch again. Thanks
Thanks for an informative video.
Thank you.
Can we just cap off the supply line at the pump and leave the rest of the parts on the truck??? It's always in interesting conversation piece when someone looks my Deuce engine.
Sure
I definitely dont want my M35 to catch on fire!!! So if i delete this heater from mine and i dont have a eether injection, neither. What mods and products do you recommend for cold starts? Would a block plug heater work fine, or is there more i can do?
If anything, a circulating block heater is your best option.
Thanks Garrett, very informative info. I'll be doing this tomorrow. What I found more informative was that 2 people gave a thumbs down on this video, Really? You've been given some sound advice and you still complain about the message. Some people need to move on. SMH
Hey Garrett thanks for this video! Didn’t know it existed till now..... when I just was wrapping up installing my pyrometer, and in the process, smaller line that goes to the flame heater injector ... it very slightly dripples fuel ... question is.... capping with 1/4” plug at injector and removing T from injector return line should solve this correct? Also I’m assuming that if it’s been coming thru like that, it’s been going into my intake or I guess I just realize that assuming that valve is functional, it’s been stopping there just before intake... I plan on removing all of the components but as of right now, I have only the 1/4 inch plug and crush barrels on hand and not the plugs for the spark plug and injector
Yes you can do that.
@@tacticalrepair smokes significantly less. thanks bro! btw, wya on fb? michael aht
Apparently at some point in the past I had offered my advice to someone and you were giving me shit about it. You were on my blocked list, and I don't recall blocking you for being irritating.😄 Anyway, I'll send you a request.
@@tacticalrepairdamn bro I can’t recall such incident.... Them was rough times... what I remember was I was meaning to call you but I kept putting it off until the day I dropped my phone in the lake, lost everything, literally. Much to catch up on
Yeah I don't really remember what it was either. No big deal.
Taking off the fuel feed line to the heater looks like it's gonna suck to take off. It looks like the steering box is gonna be in the way. I'm gonna attempted tomorrow I'll let you know how it goes.
Ok a Air Force M35A2.... How dose the duel circuit brake system work on it?!?! That's the video I want to see, how to make one or adapt a Army M35A2 to the dual circuit AF style.
Same as a single circuit, but you have a dual outlet master cylinder activating two different air packs.
I have seen the diagrams but never a pic or video.
Thanks for that info,.....I think I will just block off the supply line at the bottom of the pump under the HH like you showed and leave the rest so it looks complete on mine as my injector is leaking at the back and dripping onto my turbo and being in the 'Land Down Under' needing that heater isn't a high priority for me. I'll need to block the line at the T junction so I don't get fuel from the engine injectors feeding back from there to that injector at the elbow,....Aussie.
Actually,.. can you do a Video on repairing the leaking injector itself,...? Aussie.
I've honestly never attempted to repair one. No hard parts are available and they really are quite useless.
Wow you got a Deuce down there?? It’s a wander it’s not an M135 WW2 , interesting how you got one down there? Vietnam leftover?
Garrett,
My flame heater is leaking fuel onto my turbo so I need to take the fuel out of the loop, but for now I think I might want to keep all the flame heater components in place in case I ever decided to replace or rebuild the manifold heater set-up... and so I dont have to guess as to what threads the 2 holes in the "elbow" are that I would have to plug up if I removed the items that are currently threaded into the 2 holes in the "elbow". So, at bare minimum I need to...
1. Plug off the supply line that originates from the bottom of the injector pump with a NPT pipe cap.
2. Use another NPT pipe cap to cap off the one junction/inlet port on the "T" fitting (about mid-way on the engine) that serves as the fuel return line (fattest line) from the manifold heater injector that returns fuel to the same main fuel line that supplies the 6 fuel injectors that squirt fuel to each corresponding engine cylinder.
Then just leave all the remaining manifold heater stuff in place in case I want to try to fix it someday.
Does that sound right, 2 NPT pipe caps at bare minimum?
Also, what do I use as sealant on the threads that can tolerate diesel fuel?
Now, could I some time later use one of the threaded holes (either injector hole or spark plug hole) in that "elbow" for a boost gauge?
And use the 24 volt hot wire from the flame heater toggle switch inside the cab for an acessory like a train horn or some other type of cool "momentary on" accessory?
Thank you,
Shane
As I think more about leaving the injector and spark plug in the intake "elbow" in place just to act as plugs that I know fit the threaded holes they are already plugging up, and also affording me the option of some day getting the flame heater system working correctly..
I can also reason that if that elbow fuel injector is leaking/failing, because of bad O rings or seat valve in the "guts" of it...then it could possibly also leak air either in or out and could possibly cause a vacuum leak, boost leak, or a combination of both which could obviously negatively affect engine performance. Maybe I can also cap off the existing injector and make sure it is air tight without just substituting it with some other close but not exact size plug that has to be re-tapped or forced to chew it's own new custom threads. I still think it would be great if I could re-purpose the more common 3/8 inch NPT spark plug threaded hole in the intake elbow for a boost gauge sensor.
Shane
Why R U removing the flame heater from an M35A2 ducey?
@@ScottHamilton-hb9sb they're a common point of failure, and when they fail it can lead to catastrophic engine damage or an engine bay fire. Even the military removed them from engines during the final overhaul run and replaced them with ether start kits.
The sparkplug hole seems simple enough. But, couldn't someone leave the valve in place and simply cap the fuel line hookups?
If the valve can leak fuel in, it will leak boost out.
@@tacticalrepair Thanks. I'm looking into buying an M35 in the relatively near future. So, I'm educating myself
Rumor says you have a new video coming out?
Why would anyone want to delete it? It works great when it's in working order. Probably less work to fix any issues with it than delete it.
You said it yourself. It works great WHEN it works, which isn't common. They're very problematic and exhibit multiple modes of failure. Replacement parts for them aren't plentiful or easy to find anymore either. The nozzles have a habit of leaking either into the intake, causing excessive smoking, ring wash, cylinder wear, and in some cases burnt pistons or hydro lock. When they leak externally, they leak directly onto the exhaust housing of the turbo. This has been responsible for a metric shit- ton of engine fires and burnt down trucks. It was such an issue that most all of your depot overhauled canned engines have the flame heater deleted and they come with an ether start kit to install instead. Not to mention, most people don't live or operate these trucks in a place that gets cold enough to need these flame heaters. They actually start quite easily down to around 0°F with no assistance, assuming the valves are adjusted well and everything in the fuel system is in good shape.
@@tacticalrepair Perkins diesel engines have a similar system which is cheap and readily available it's called Thermostart. Not sure if it can be easily retrofitted but only takes 12v power and fuel.
@@In2investing yeah I remember that since you mentioned it. I'm certain it could be retrofitted if someone needs it. But like I mentioned, most guys that own these trucks live in areas where they aren't really ever needed. Then I've been seeing more and more people installing different kinds of coolant heaters when they do live in cold climates. I just don't see it being necessary anymore unless you live in a truly arctic climate.