Smyth Busters: Does an AR-15 Castle Nut Have To Be Staked?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 сер 2020
- To stake or not to stake? No, that isn't the title of an episode of Buffy the Vampire Slayer! Instead, Brownells Gun Techs Steve and Caleb tackle a long-standing debate among AR-15 folks: Should you stake the castle nut to the endplate on the receiver extension tube? Some folks say you should always stake it, while others say, "Nah, never." Caleb is in the "stake it, stake it good" camp - and he explains the practical experience that got him there. If an AR-15 is used a lot, the castle nut WILL work loose. So unless the gun is a wall-hanger or a range fun gun, you should go ahead and stake that castle nut to the endplate - especially on law enforcement, military, and competition AR-15s and M16s. However, if you're like Steve and tinker a lot with your AR, swapping stocks and the like, there is an alternative to breaking the stake every time you remove the receiver extension (aka, "buffer tube"). The Primary Weapon Systems (PWS) Ratchet Lock Castle Nut & End Plate use a pin-and-detent system that keeps the castle nut tight, yet lets you easily remove it when you need to. So among serious AR-15 shooters, not staking is the Myth - and it's busted!
Want more Smyth Busters? Check out our video library AND click Subscribe to be notified of new episodes! - Спорт
Mine came staked from the factory. However, when I find the configuration I like, I’ll definitely stake the castle nut. But in the meantime, I won’t while I’m tinkering and playing around with things.
TheOtherWhiteBread0 LOL! For my first one ever, I thought it a good idea. The next will be all custom! 😉
What are you tinkering with? There might be 4 buffer tube configs total. 2 of them carbine and Vltor A5 being common. What are you changing around?
@@JamesBond-ut5iv I’m considering making an AR with a folding stock. But as to which buffer tube config I want to use, I haven’t decided yet. I am only at the stage of researching uppers and lowers to determine what I like and actually want on my custom. So, not very far along at all in the process.
I'd still stake it if I was shooting it between different configurations. Don't need to stake it in more than one location. Mil Spec end plates are dirt cheap. If you use a Tango Uniform Echo Zulu castle nut when playing with many configurations, it's made with many staking locations compared to a Mil Spec, and you should never run out of them.
I stake the lug nuts on my car too...
Ha
I stake my gas cap
@@ragz8 lol
You plebs. I stake my ignition after I put the key in. Never lost the key again.
That's actually a pretty fair point. If your parts are quality made, and you properly torque them, you'll probably shoot out your barrel before your nut comes loose. I mean, it's 5.56/.223 ffs; not much recoil impulse to shake it loose. Maybe on an AR-10. Even if it does come loose, you'll catch it during cleaning, as you do parts checks during cleaning anyway.
I always love these videos from Brownells. They consistently keep it classy, stay reasonable, and avoid trying to manufacture controversy (unlike so many gun channels).
I have commitment issues, so I use blue loctite lol
Same, in fact, I just bought a Law Tac folder, so, changing things again.
And loctite is the closest you can get to staking a buffer tube on a fixed stock AR.
100%
Does loctite work well? As an alternative?
People use it on engines all the time just don't use too much of it
Good Lord welcome to the internet where everything is a controversy.
I mark mine with a gold sharpie where it would normally be staked so I can see if it comes loose, and will be using blue locktite
Just stake it and be done, you'll never have to worry about it again
I’m glad you guys are doing this kind of stuff. It’s getting most people on the same page.
Ive never staked mine. Been using the same AR in competition for 12+ years. Zero issues. I also have the PWS end plate on one of mine. Cool item.
@Chris_Gullett I've personally never had a need to do that, but I put blue loctite on a friends they AR for that same reason. No issues.
@Chris_Gullett You nailed it! No sense in staking it! Just a little pun lol but I completely agree with using loctite, staking is so 19th century!
@Chris_Gullett you don't need heat for blue
@@Adrian_Zenz as long as you use it sparingly, like your supposed to. Even then, heat will still liquify it. You can't be wrong to use heat, in any case.
@@Adrian_Zenz
What do you mean by "using heat"?
If I back my aftermarket out to add blue loctite, would it mess up the little spring under the retainer plate?
Or do you guys mean to use Blue loctite for the castle nut, and NOT the actual buffer tube assembly? (Which is dry as they came from the factory, not greased like some advise)
I plan to use a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle on the armorers wrench to 30-40 ft/lb and avoid staking so wondering if that's good enough, that's why I ask what you mean by "heat".
Everyone is saying the torque readings are accurate if using the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the armorers wrench slot for the 1/2" slot, then you always have the guy saying that the manual says to use both wrenches parallel with each other, yet others say that provides a false reading.
Hopefully you can answer these questions if you see this!
I never stake, however, I always use "one drop" of blue Loctite. NEVER had an issue.
Chad from sotar would be very upset with you for that 😂
Probably because you don't actually run your shit. Bring it to a weekend training course or a match and you will have issues.
@@robhegstrom9996ok zoomer
@@whiteyfisk9769 ok poor person
@@robhegstrom9996 YWNBARW
Staking is not enough...definitely needs to be arc welded! LOL
CountryBoy you stole my line I was deffinately going to say WELD IT LOL.
Torque it down like a head bolt THEN weld it!!
Yes, but just hand snug the barrel nut.
@@johnstreitt2474 easy there, Hulk, you don’t want to strip it
Duct Tape
Automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight is a excellent staker
I love that PWS ratcheting end plate and castle nut. It is a really slick way to do things.
I recently bought my first AR and these series you two are putting out are very informative. And now I definitely think the coffee mug drinking synchronization is done on purpose. 😊👍🏻
And if you ever have any questions, give us a call!
@@CalebSavant
Can confirm. I called Brownells, and a nice lady answered my question about shipping ammo out of state. Defintley a company that cares about its customers.
Oh, it is for sure.
Brownells has always answered my questions, thru email or phone call. ♥️👍
Great content guys. For me it depends on the gun. If the build is finished & nothing is going to be changed I stake it. If there’s a chance I’ll be making changes I’ve found loctite & marking it with a paint pen works well. If I see it start to drift I’ll tune it back up & go.
I am a firm believer and user of the PWS ratchet system castle nut and end plate, I have them on all my AR rifles and pistols and they've been fantastic!
I’ve had one come loose on a patrol rifle. Thankfully it was during range time not in the field. On my personal rifles I go with loctite as it’s easier to change when you want to yet holds well. I’ve only been a fan of staking when nothing is going to change.
Right with you. Recently built an AR pistol - my only AR - and am still not sure I am Going to leave the set up as it is... still seeing what works for me. So 242 for now, with the plan of possibly staking it when I get to where I am sure I am done.
If Loctite works on Harleys, it will work on ARs. :-) May as well stake it though - you don't need to change the tube to change the stock.
TL Wiz: There are other things that can be done besides stocks over your tube. I have a Troy Industries quick detach sling mount which goes on before the nut; swopping something like that or adding a folding stock adapter also involves changing the tube.
Interested in knowing if it came loose due to lack of maintenance? How often did you check the nut? Did you locktight it?
I use red loctite and torque to spec for my personal rifles. I find it is as hard, and often harder, to remove than a staked one unless you apply some heat.
I stake and loctite because I'm paranoid 😎🇺🇸
You stake because you are smart.
I never stake mine.. but.. I use the The Primary Weapon Systems Ratchet Lock so there you go.
"paranoid" sounds like a good word to use against you for a red flag law injunction...
Loctite is usually just going to potentially leak into the gun. It doesn't really do anything. Just use aeroshell grease on the threads.
@@inthego The PWS system fails all the time. I'd switch it. Swapped 2 of mine a few years back.
Good Work! Iv'e always staked mine.
I’m on both sides of this. I will try different stocks or braces, dependent on firearm use, till I find the one I don’t want to change out then stake it down. But during this process I have had a castle but come loose once during extensive use. So when you find the right end I believe it should be staked.
I use the PMS ratcheting castle nut and end plate system on all my ar platforms. Never had the problem of one coming loose.
Cheap automatic center punch. Easy, fast and cheap.
AR's are not cheap to build but it's pretty cool to add on a new piece that works (ratcheting castle nut) and that includes a center punch in your gun tool box also. Even though you might have to dig a little deeper into your pockets that's the nature of this Hobby. May the 2nd Amendment be with US. 🐢😃👍
@Favrefan297 another option is a 5/32 punch from Forward Controls Design. $8.50
Some buffer tubes, like ones from POF and Spike, have a groove in the top that catches the pin that engages/retains the buffer and buffer spring. That helps keep the tube from wiggling loose if you also tighten the castle nut down pretty tight. Between the two, your stock will probably not rotate loose. I'd most likely want it staked if it was a military or LE patrol rifle. But for hunting, target shooting and bimonthly practice, I don't want it staked because I'm always messing with the internals.
Psa comes standard with these as well!
Interesting to hear the perspectives
Hey Caleb,
Great call and great video.
I compete with my AR15 every weekend. The SBR lower has hundreds of thousands of rounds. I never staked it, I used blue locktite and torqued to spec. It has NEVER walked out on me.
Every weekend?
Better get my hip boots on, the shit is getting deep.
@@HWG-wm8ld Last weekend was multi-gun, today is zombies, next weekend is IDPA and a steel match. Local matches. Next question.
@Michael Aylor I've never actually done the math, but I buy in bulk and cheap and way ahead of time. Buying 5k rounds at a time is pretty normal. But I tend to shoot whatever is cheapest. Depending on the match restrictions, I shoot .22LR, 9mm, 5.56, 7.62x39, 5.45, and .308 Win out of the same lower. I have shot .45 ACP and .40 S&W, but not normally since 9mm is cheaper during non-panic times anyways, for when I need to shoot pistol calibers as required; all from the same SBR lower. I just swap out uppers and at times the buffer and spring depending on caliber. I am known as the "steel cased guy" because usually the cheapest ammo is Russian steel cased import ammo. I still beat a lot of people even with cheap steel cased ammo, which is funny.
My last 5k of 9mm before the panic, I got for 13 cents per round shipped in my hands. It was some of that Monarch stuff from Academy Sports. Pretty good deal.
Beast mode on ✅
@Michael Aylor Just as an example, guys in my unit in the Army would periodically pitch in together and buy ammo in bulk by the tens of thousands of rounds to get a better deal. Some guys spend money on fancy cars, some on airplanes, some on guns, etc. I known quite a few people who would go through thousands, if not tens of thousands, of rounds per year easy.
Awesome thank you for the video !!! Staking here i come
Thank you guys for another excellent video.
I like the locking castlenut and plate combo. I have never staked mine, but i'm just a range guy.
Had 3 castle nuts loosen on me through the years. Like the ratchet type End Plate/Castle Nut systems as a good compromise. It is a bit painful staking a pricier end plate or PDW system but, if you got a good buffer tube, there is seldom a reason to replace.
Both Steve and Caleb look like guys you would love to work with. Rock on!
I can say that Steve is great to work with!
I've had a few come loose on me and am relieved to know about the ratchet nut from PWS. This will give me a semi-permanent alternative.
I bought my first AR about a year ago and it wasn’t staked but being a newbie, I had no idea. The buffer tube was loose and my retainer pin and spring got pushed out and destroyed after shooting at the range. I wish I knew about this sooner
Breaking through steaking to remove the castle nut is simple.
Super easy, barely an inconvenience.
@@CalebSavant quoting screen rants is tight
Caleb Savant yeah yeah yeah yeah
Yeah
Not as easy as loctite!
I usually just dremel the areas with staking and the castle nut comes right off. Usually the tube isn't damaged but if it is I could care less because obviously I was replacing it for a reason one would hope. Looking through the comments. I see a lot of grown men that like to play Barbie dress up with a rifle.
I'm ex-military too. I'm also shooting in competition I have never staked one have built many if you stake it I think you take it for granted that it's tight if you don't stake it you tend to,as a routine, to check that nut to make sure that it's tight...just my opinion. Locktite it...
after MANY builds and a LOT of use both in the Field and general shooting I just keep a wrench handy. the Loctite fix does work and You CAN remove the Castle nut if ya have to I just prefer not to.
Thank you! This is exactly my philosophy, too. Preventative maintenance and parts inspection should be part of one's cleaning routine.
My gas key is staked, but you better believe it's one of the parts I check to verify it's still working properly. I have a castle nut wrench weighing less than half an ounce in my cleaning kit, along with the tool for my Aero Precision ATLAS S-One hand guard. I check it for solid lockup. Same with my gas block and A2 muzzle break. Doesn't take but a second or two to check if things are snug (apply a dot of nail polish where two parts meet - if the dot shears, it's probably coming loose).
I have seen the castle nut come loose on my semi auto ar style 12 gauge, several times.
It happens occasionally on my ar 15.
Good analysis. Thanks guys. I like the ratcheting version.
I wouldn’t mind a nice ribeye steak 🥩
Cut that off of whatever you are shooting at ha ha.
Glad I wasn't the only one who have a hankering for steak after watching the video. Kept hearing steak it, steak it, steak it.
Montreal steak seasoning by McCormick👍
I was going to shoot steak with my AR too tenderize it
Ribeye is a trash cut.
I shoot all my ARs suppressed. So the Castle nuts always come loose. Got on my nerves and staked all of mine. Greetings from a fellow German shooting enthusiast.
Had a similar issue.
Applied a couple drops of red loctite and torqued to spec haven't had issues since then.
Idk why or If I would ever swap tubes, but I guess having the easier option to willfully remove it makes sense to me.
You are the coolest guy on earth.
Outstanding video and presintation.
Great subject. Thanks fur touching on this
The added piece of mind and how easy it is to do, is why ALL of mine are staked. And if you do eventually want to change things around it's a great reason to get another lower.
I build my own and have never staked them. I did have one come loose on me at one point though. Since then I always use blue loctite and have never had a problem. Great video and topic fellas!
Good call!
My first AR was definitely a garage gun, and on a college student budget. Oh wait, it gets worse, it was in 300blk too. My barrel nut was hand tightened (didn't have a wrench that fit it) and my castle nut was neither staked nor loctited and was also hand tightened. Interestingly, the barrel nut never came loose from firing, but I was typically fairly gentle with it. The castle nut however DID come loose. Fast forward to my second build, bought a completed upper but still assembled the lower. This time I used a wrench (albeit not one made for a castle nut) and blue loctite, and while I don't handle this one particularly roughly either, it hasn't come loose from firing or tossing it around on an endplate mounted sling. I'd say loctite is good enough in a pinch but if you don't have a reason not to stake it, then why not? If your upper is gonna stay built, why not pin your gas block? It's the same idea.
There are so many great options out there so you dont have to permanently modify your fire arm. I have used both pws buffer systems and the original doesn't have a castle nut at all and they both work great. Strike industries has a kit that uses tiny set screws and fortis has around 3 different options to keep your castle nut in place without using a hammer and punch
I use an A1 and A2 buttstocks on my defensive firearms. On the range guns I don't bother.
Lol so you just shoulder the bare buffer tube of your range guns?
@@magnanimus9692 yup. Shoulder stocks are overrated, especially when there's a perfectly good tube that's just as good. ;)
It's true that a fixed buttstock requires no staking, as it has no castle nut
This has me wondering if a two nut setup would help keep things tight under use, or maybe a strong lock washer.
i got two nuts for ya.
My two nut setup has done me well over the years.
I have the pws ratcheting castle. Nut n end plate works great
You could also torque it and put a line of Torque Stripe from the end plate to the castle nut to indicate slippage.
Good input- thank you - I’m a 20 year military retiree and I believe in staking it. I understand Steve’s point, but I RARELY alter components, since my engineering background strongly suggests that design and manufacturing decisions were made for valid reasons, and I’m reluctant to modify without FULLY understanding the basis for all such decisions.
"Nyet, rifle is fine."
I was told that it was because they didn’t want soldiers messing with it in the field. But at 40 ft/lbs it won’t come off. At least that’s what I was told.
Bobby Brady But that’s the fun of AR’s , to play around with them, change things and change them back if you want. Like I heard it said, they are like adult legos.
Except a lot of the time that design reason is simply for cost or availability, not because it is the best option.
Jacob Schmoll: That’s obviously correct, BUT the design was OPTIMIZED for those constraints (such as affordability). Therefore, it is possible that the “adult lego” approach could - I am NOT suggesting it will, however, it certainly could - create inadvertent to problems.
I pick the following non-AR example because the cause and effect are very clear (and also because I don’t want to open a “can of worms”). I have a close friend (retired FBI agent), who seriously competed in the IDPA enhanced revolver division, with a four-inch barrel S&W 686 firing “light” .357 magnum loads. To increase his competitiveness, he decided to replace all the springs in his 686 with lighter ones, thereby hopefully improving his times/scores. Everything seemed to work out well, until the manufacturer of his competition loads evidently changed the primer they had used for years. The new rounds had slightly harder primers, and he began to experience more-than-rare FTFs. We talked about it, he re-installed the factory springs, and the problem disappeared.
Of course, this isn’t at all critical when the adverse results were a few poor IDPA competitive scores. BUT what if that 686 - with the new and lighter spring set - had been his duty sidearm (it wasn’t) or the weapon he often carried off-duty and kept on his nightstand (it was)? My point is good engineering practices optimize the entire SYSTEM; altering any element of that system can be perfectly fine . . . However, one needs to understand thoroughly the operating, reliability, maintainability, and durability implications before doing so.
How about a little Blue Loctite?
Hell yeah!
Lol. No. What you want on the threads is grease. Steel on aluminum leads to galling.
@@556bc Staking is between the end plate and castle nut so no matter what the nut is not "married" to the reciever. Blue Loctute holds to the same rotational force shaking does.
Knights doesn't use tighter tolerances in these areas than other makers. Their end plate fits the same as any other.
I always stake the end plate. Lately I use the Fortis K2 ratcheting castle nut and end plate combo. Totally the best.
Thank you for your service! 👍🏻🇺🇸
In all my years of owning AR's, I've never had a castle nut come loose.
Ricochet I have
I've seen enough castle nuts come loose to know to stake mine 100%
I stake everything, but I put that PWS ratcheting castle nut on my last build. So nice.
Oh man had no idea, not a military guy more of a prepper but going to stake them tomorrow...for you know that hole brown in the ceiling propeller situation.
I have used the same AR for 15 years. Once torqued to specifications the Castle Nut won't move, no matter how much you use it.
Yip i don’t see anything staked on a race car yet its all there when done I think its the quality of workmanship and also I get the idea Americans see how far they can push their AR’s before they fall apart because I clean and check everything when im done shooting and this is something I learned in the military look after your most important tool like its your own child. Clean it tighten it and oil it. Thats my opinion. Staking not a bad thing just not end all be all.
Same rifle for 15 years? It’s not blown out?
@@shaunschneeberger6301 as a former racer and race car builder I can say that we use nylon locking nuts and lock tite on just about everything because if we didnt everything rattles loose.
@@paladin556 Adding to that, almost every nut and bolt on aircraft are wired into place.
@@afsarmstrongfiresafety7460 yes. I used to wire brake hardware.
You guys are making me hungry.
Cause they snacks? 🙄
@@brownells Nah man, it's all that talk about steaks. Makes me want a ribeye.
@@brownells Fire this guy, Brownells. He's not too bright.
This is all new to me, thanks guys.
Good stuffs, learn so much from this!
Well, here I go opening my mouth again...........
As far as I can tell, There was never initially any intent on the part of Stoner nor Sullivan for a collapsible stock to exist at all and, if you look at the contours and shape of the lower receiver, it was meant to accept the full length fixed stock. The first time Colt CAR 15s showed up, most people in the business (at least in NYC which had a lot of gun dealers and distributors at the time) thought "that's pretty ugly the way they did that." The rifle receiver extension is not staked at all and no one ever worries about it coming loose and the stock is held in place by a simple flat head screw which,also, rarely comes loose. So ,what's the difference?
You can twist a fixed stock all day long and, even if you broke it, it has no effect to loosen or tighten the rifle receiver extension. The CAR is a totally different story. Instead of utilizing the very substantial locating hole that the rifle stock uses, Colt came up with the "egg plate." It plugs the locating hole and substitutes a shallow key-way in an already threaded portion of a thin cross section aluminum tube. I don't think it's any secret how easy it is to twist the car stock and over ride the key-way even, sometimes while you're tightening the castle nut. At least, when they added the wire stock to the M231 port firing weapon, they utilized the locating hole in the receiver. So, in general, a threaded tube and lock nut are being used in a way that is not really a great idea. And, yes, of course, I stake them for LE and self defense use.
OMG write a book.
Why not blue loctite for ones that want to switch out.
loctite is never a good idea when you are fastening a steel nut to an aluminum thread.
Loctite won't actually prevent the rotation. It just doesn't work like a state does.
On my first build I staked the castle nut really good. I was so proud of myself until i pulled out the rear takedown pin as it did not engage the grove. Let me just say it was a job removing the castle nut!
Lol
I recently built my first AR15. I live in California, and since I wanted all the evil parts on my rifle, I had to make it with a fixed mag configuration. When testing out different parts I came across a mag lock/king pin combo that required being inserted from the left side of the firearm so every time you took the gun apart to clean it you had to remove the takedown pin and in order to reinsert it you had to loosen the castle nut and endplate to move the detent back to put the takedown pin back in. I swapped back to my old fixed mag system instantly.
I stake it when I'm satisfied that I'm done building that rifle, and I have everything the way I want it.
I've used a permanent Loctite and make sure that I go 35 foot pounds as it's called for in the tightening of the castle nut and I've never had one come loose during competition or in the woods banging them around. What are you fellows thoughts on using a permanent type of Loctite or sealant agent along with the proper foot pounds of torque?? Thanks a bunch, Echo.
Same. I use loctite never had a problem
I did the same, put a liberal amount of loctite on the threads, torqued it to 40ft pounds. I shoot about 1000 rounds per range trip. Hasn't come loose at all and I'm a heavy user. I'd say on a full auto rifle, staking should be a concern but for semi auto loctite is enough.
On the other hand, how often does law enforcement get to actually use their patrol rifles? Unless there's a major shoot out, I'd say us Joe-publics probably use our rifles alot more just in one weekend. I'll continue to keep an eye on it but I think that castle nut is stuck on there, most of your heat will stay at the front of the receiver so that isn't much concern either.
Precisely what this guy said
Loctite is gold.
Negative. In the threads you need grease to prevent galling from steel on aluminum under torque. Then you stake it. Your experience < the experience of armorers for the mil who have seen millions of rifles since Nam.
I did weapons repair in the army on the M16A1 with just the old buffer tube. It was just torqued. As a machinist I lean towards blue loctite.
I am currently on the fence about staking, while in between a few different builds. I definitely understand and agree with both of these guys opinions. Everyday patrol rifle yeah......I'm pretty sure I'd definitely stake it.
Great video, but I clicked on it to actually learn what STAKING is lol. And it never was explained 😂. Believe it or not, some gun owners don’t know all the lingo.
Staking is using a punch to displace metal from the end plate into a notch on the castle nut. This metal acts like a wedge to prevent the castle nut from backing out.
At 1:22 you can see where it was staked.
Rudyelf1 thank you for helping me with that. I understand it and have used a similar technique while working in a machine shop. I guess the actual term has eluded me up till this point.
Adam I saw the divot created in the castle nut after your tip of going to 1:22. Thank you my friend 👍🏼
dave c there was one close up at 1:22, and they vaguely mentioned having to possibly break the stake by turning it. I suppose by logical deduction a person could determine what staking actually was by the video. However, mentioning using a punch or how it’s done would’ve been helpful too. Thanks for your input.
It takes 5 minutes to stake the castle nut. Army manual says to have it staked in 2 places and torqued to 40 +/-2 inch pounds. Being that most end plates are aluminum, it takes literally no additional effort to remove a staked castle nut. Torque to spec, stake in 2 places...dont be a dummy.
@Jbog07 Well said.
Don’t use mine enough, I’m not an “operator” and have never had it come loose.
@Evocati Auto Insurance. Not needed. Never had an accident.
The reason this is a topic for discussion, is that castle nuts HAVE come loose. Whether at the range or in a fight for your life, its extremely annoying to discover that you can't finger tighten the castle nut enough to keep the stock from twisting off your shoulder. But some people are unable to learn from the unfortunate experiences of others. They really need to learn the hard way.
ft/lbs*
This is what I always assumed but hearing it from an expert is nice.
Thanks for watching!
I fall into the used once in a while category so what I do is use some blue loc-tite on the threads and tighten down, that way I can take it off or change it with no difficulty without having to stake.
Blue Loctite?? Would that work?
Too modern methods....
Yes it will!
Why experiment with cost savings measures on a defensive gun? A center punch is $2 and staking takes less than 5 minutes to do right
How about both
Evocati I don’t use loctite on critical parts of the gun. I use loctite on small screws for scope mounts. That’s it. Don’t pretend to assume you know how my guns are built.
A2 stock is your answer ;P
A1 stock and locktite. Perfect length, doesn't wobble like an adjustable stock.
Jaime D yup. No armed professionals ever use collapsing stocks.
@@Murphy82nd Tell that to any Executive Protection detail or PSD team-- collapsible systems are a mainstay especially when in vehicles constantly in that type of work. If you're doing a lot of foot patrolling or are deep in the bush for extended periods of time, fixed or beefier stock systems are better for obvious reasons, but quick hitting and fast moving/ mobile details and missions may relegate otherwise or just based on the individual professional's preference. I use both depending on the detail/ situation.
Derek J. Jesus, did you really miss that my comment was pure sarcasm?
@@Murphy82nd It's the internet, being there's no inflection of tone and I can't hear you say it, yes.
I put them on hand tight with a spanner wrench. That way I can change the stock easier. But I also have 2 ARs that have their barrels on hand tight. The handguard is also the nut so there won't be any surprise loosening.
Assembled my own ARs so this is valuable info for me.
Why didn't they didn't mention LockTight, they went straight to staking. In my experience LockTigh is a acceptable alternative to staking
Breaking news there’s a new product called BLUE LOC-TiTE!
I wonder how others feel about this!
LOL. Yeah....
I use blue Loctite as well
or just grab the pws ratcheting castle nut. no need for loctite or staking.
I switched to the new Orange Loc-Tite.
I had a new colt lower (factory) and it didn't come staked... say what you will about colt but it's a rare miss in my opinion. It came loose the first time I shot it and I noticed it while cleaning. Bought a PWS buffer and system and I've never had a problem since.
0:36 "One of the big _turning points_ ..." Har har.
I carry my rifle every day and I've never had the castle nut come loose on any of my rifles
Blue lock tight is good enough for now.
I don't see a reason Locktite wouldn't work.
Once configurations are set Id prefer staked. Untill then I like the ratcheting plate/nut system, never had any issues with it so it might even be good to go as is.
Enhanced buffer tubes lock up on the spring retainer preventing the rotation of the tube. the aero one i have works great.
Never staked any of my rifles. Torque castle nut to 40 ftlbs never will come loose!
I've seen several guns loosen up even when using a full 40 ft lbs. Staking IMO is a peace of mind thing that takes the worst case scenario out of the equation
Peace of mind goes a long way!
Absolutely false, and a perfect example of why you should be careful when buying "Franken ar's" people build in their garage.
One of the most common issues we would have in our shop was people simply torqueing down the castle nut. No loctite. No staking.
Would almost always come loose eventually. Sometimes after a hundred rounds, sometimes after a few thousand rounds. Either way, for a fighting rifle, you should NEVER rely on just torqueing the castle nut.
I don't stake it, but I would consider it if I'm not changing buffer tubes/plates ever (and I rarely do on certain guns). But I can just as easily check the nut to ensure it's still tight too. I built my rifle, I have the tools, I know how to do it, nothing stopping me from retightening it periodically If i find it coming loose.
Stake it.
i did a half assed stake job, just a little over a year of use i noticed the staking mark and slot didnt line up and i could loosen the castlenut by hand. so one of my ARs did come loose and i tightened and staked all my other ARs
Takes me one minute, I always stake. I've had a few come loose after a few hard use sessions at the range.Vice, center punch and a hammer is all you need.
Always stake the castle nut. It was designed to be staked, so stake it if it’s not.
Of course I use an A1 fixed stock on all my rifles so I don’t really change things.
40 lbs of torque on the castle nut and it'll never come loose
That’s not true
I haven’t staked mine and it’s used all the time. Zero issues.
I'm planning to upgrade my current sidefolder stock on an AK with M4 buttstock conversion kit. I'll definitely stake my castle nut no matter if it serves no purpose on the AK but it can't hurt to have it staked.
Stake. Ex-military. Trust me they come loose.
Easy killer
@@ViktoriousDead Easy snowflake
Cole Johnson not exactly
Figure I’ll throw in my $0.02. My brother, for his sixteenth birthday, took an armorer class will Will Larson of Semper Paratus Arms. He built his own rifle and was told to stake everything he didn’t want coming off.
He’s had that rifle for 4 years now, run competitions with it and has had no movement.
The castle nut that came with the new buffer tube doesn't have a notch for staking, but I'm always trying out new parts so I use blue thread locker.
Blue loctite on threads in two spots where tube threads into receiver and where castle nut threads onto the tube. Staking is mil spec but for range guns and home defense the loctite works fine.
Never staked any of mine and I guarantee I shoot ALOT more than law enforcement does. I can afford ammo, they can’t...😂
yeah but our shit gets thrown in and out of our unit every single day, and bumps around all the time. you carrying your AR in a rack mount in your car 12 hours every day? has nothing to do from shooting use, has to do with general use.
You just have to ask yourself what’s at stake....
I used blue loctite on mine and tightened if good. I check it often, it’s never loosened.
I have never staked mine. I have never had any problems. I did have a hard time getting one off when I first nbought my AR. It had been staked and red loctighted. Some heat was needed to get it to come loose. So when I put it back on I torqued it to 2 jesus and a grunt and it has never come loose. I may look into the PWS that you showed if they make one for a collapsable stock.