Just so you know. The W1 feeds the H1 relay that completes the power circuit from the transformer to the inducer motor then the relay k2 in the UCP board controls the speeds of the inducer. Typically I just check the motor winding of the inducer motor for continuity. Also that inducer converts positive gas pressure to negative typically 3.50- to -2.90 Also the hot surface igniter has two purposes one obviously light the flame the second is to send a millivolt signal to the board as it is the flame sensor. The gas valve has a build in check valve if the inducer does not crate 2.4- pressure the gas vale will not relaxes gas so that is your pressure switch per say. Good video.
@Dimas Lespier Very nice my friend bravo 👏,,, thanks for stopping by ,,perhaps you can help me solve another problem, I have another similar furnace that intermittently back fires during startup after combustion motor replacement!
@@D2DNYAC that’s a gas pressure issue with the valve. Typically it will do that when there not enough gas pressure on the negative side of the valve. Or if the burner screen inside behind the big round cover of the heat exchanger. But my experience tells Me it’s not enough negative gas pressure.
Always check the capacitor on the motor first before saying the fan motor is bad. Seeing rust on capacitor is a sign the cap is old and they all have a limit where they won't have enough juice to help start that motor. Change that and check if motor windings are good on motor by resistance test before condemning the fan motor. Always verify your diagnose so you don't look like an amateur tech but a pro. I enjoy your videos bro
@Ares same as the other job my friend , replaced the pre assembled motor with wheel and housing from Trane and now it's Running Prettyyyy Prettay Prettay Pretty good
Greatly appreciate the knowledge ,also the way you show and explain the schematic for what you are troubleshooting. Help me understand a lil better on that K5 relay that the CFM was getting powered from when energized shouldn't the NO then close and the NC then open if so why were you getting power to the orange and black wire at the same time ?im thinking you should not get any power to the orange? Look forward to the respone .MUCH RESPECT .
@sd SD good question my friend I see your point and I don't have a definitive answer. I will exploit this next time I am around a similar trane unit and update you here! The furnace did run with the new motor FYI, thanks for watching and commenting I will be exploiting this for sure..
@AJ jabbi no! That’s unlikely, heating season is winter in addition in NYC there’s lots of critical infrastructures that requires cooling all throughout the winter
Good looking not a bad idea, however the motor didn’t budge while being powered didn’t even attempt to move, in the case of bad cap it would at the very least hum
20:25 I mentioned the possibility of a bad capacitor okay ..... however as a PROFESSIONAL I didn't want to waste time, recieve a call back or even take chances on something with the potential dangers of a gas fired furnace, over something as trivial as an induction motor. This was my process
I love this guys energy, wish we had more techs with his positivity in the industry. Thanks for the video man!
Thanks 🙏
Just so you know. The W1 feeds the H1 relay that completes the power circuit from the transformer to the inducer motor then the relay k2 in the UCP board controls the speeds of the inducer. Typically I just check the motor winding of the inducer motor for continuity. Also that inducer converts positive gas pressure to negative typically 3.50- to -2.90 Also the hot surface igniter has two purposes one obviously light the flame the second is to send a millivolt signal to the board as it is the flame sensor. The gas valve has a build in check valve if the inducer does not crate 2.4- pressure the gas vale will not relaxes gas so that is your pressure switch per say. Good video.
@Dimas Lespier Very nice my friend bravo 👏,,, thanks for stopping by ,,perhaps you can help me solve another problem, I have another similar furnace that intermittently back fires during startup after combustion motor replacement!
@@D2DNYAC that’s a gas pressure issue with the valve. Typically it will do that when there not enough gas pressure on the negative side of the valve. Or if the burner screen inside behind the big round cover of the heat exchanger. But my experience tells
Me it’s not enough negative gas pressure.
Always check the capacitor on the motor first before saying the fan motor is bad. Seeing rust on capacitor is a sign the cap is old and they all have a limit where they won't have enough juice to help start that motor. Change that and check if motor windings are good on motor by resistance test before condemning the fan motor. Always verify your diagnose so you don't look like an amateur tech but a pro. I enjoy your videos bro
@Ares same as the other job my friend , replaced the pre assembled motor with wheel and housing from Trane and now it's Running Prettyyyy Prettay Prettay Pretty good
The video gets a thumbs up simply because you are a fellow Audi enthusiast. I have 2 of them, including an RS2 spec CQ.
@N Sudatta -Roy what country are you from?
@@D2DNYAC I'm in the US. I'm in the DMV. I'm the one who said I want to come up to NY to shadow you for a week, or so.
Great video man, nice work
Thanks for watching
Greatly appreciate the knowledge ,also the way you show and explain the schematic for what you are troubleshooting. Help me understand a lil better on that K5 relay that the CFM was getting powered from when energized shouldn't the NO then close and the NC then open if so why were you getting power to the orange and black wire at the same time ?im thinking you should not get any power to the orange? Look forward to the respone .MUCH RESPECT .
@sd SD good question my friend I see your point and I don't have a definitive answer. I will exploit this next time I am around a similar trane unit and update you here! The furnace did run with the new motor FYI, thanks for watching and commenting I will be exploiting this for sure..
@@D2DNYAC always appreciate the feedback, much respect.
Nice video one question I have is about the winter season do a lot of people get layed off in Ny and how is the business in in the winter
@AJ jabbi no! That’s unlikely, heating season is winter in addition in NYC there’s lots of critical infrastructures that requires cooling all throughout the winter
Great video I’m only 14 minutes in so far , may i ask how did you know the motor was connected to that specific board please ?
@Aj Using the schematic or wiring diagram supplied with the unit
Thanks for stopping by
Very good work
Thank you for stopping by
Good job
Hey boss I like to carry a rope with large husky hook to rope things up from the ladder I hate hauling things up with one hand 😭
Yes indeed I was just being lazy😂
Why not pay that rusty capacitor any attention?
The one on the induction motor?
Good looking not a bad idea, however the motor didn’t budge while being powered didn’t even attempt to move, in the case of bad cap it would at the very least hum
I hate them units, I have too many of those.
😆
Nice
Thanks for stopping by
Part 2 please
Okay
I am disappointed you assume the motor is bad before you even check the capacitor, ESPECIALLY one that looks like that one!
20:25 I mentioned the possibility of a bad capacitor okay ..... however as a PROFESSIONAL I didn't want to waste time, recieve a call back or even take chances on something with the potential dangers of a gas fired furnace, over something as trivial as an induction motor. This was my process