Good diagnostics, usually the 8 code comes from corrosion in the gas valve and isn’t as repeatable. Cycle power and it goes away, for a while. Then you get a call back and the board gets replaced and it goes away, for a while.
WELL DONE. I get suspicious when a board is called for, makes me want to poke around too, helps confirm my stance. Good to know about that rather general internal control fault!
This is my first time watching your videos. I m planning to start offering services on commercial unit. How do you price all repairs, what kind of % you do on all parts and what is the average diagnosis that you charge? Thanks!
Love your attitude and love your tech skills. I had a similar issue at a Shipley's Donuts here in Houston TX. Though we don't use heat much here! Thanks for sharing!
Comstar was a Refrigerant manufacturer that made R-22 replacement refrigerant. If I remember right it did not sell very well and I think it had a really high glide. The last time I heard anything about the company was like 15 years ago.
@@HughesManHVAC It looks like Comstar Refrigerants is still in business. I just Googled Comstar Refrigerants and it came up. There under the name Comstar International, and they make several different refrigerants.
Great video brother! Maybe next time you can identify each part for rookies like me! I just graduated from HVAC school and need more hands on training! Nonetheless great video! thank you sir!
If the hi fire wire was disconnected it worked like a single stage valve or if it was only calling for first stage. If both stages were calling it would give the 8 flash code until I reversed common and 1st stage heat at the valve. I was definitely getting the 24v at the common terminal on the gas valve and not at the low fire terminal. After I swapped them everything worked fine and the valve acted properly and adjusted gas pressure when hi fire was called.
@HughesMan HVAC just trying to think electrically what exactly was happening, the board obviously caught the problem. My first thought was your feeding 24 volts to common, the fuse should blow, but you're not shorting it out. You are feeding the common of the valve with 24 volts. Good stuff Bro, someone smart on here will probably give a great answer, I'm not that guy 😆 .
@@HughesManHVAC Never worked with gas but to me it looks like a two stage gasvalve is just two solenoids basically. So if the common on the gas valve is not connected to earth and is just one of each end of the solenoid coils tied together. Then you could swap them and one coil would work by itself. But if you have the other one connected aswell 24v would be on both sides of the second stage coil and it would not energize and 24v could possibly backfeed to something. I am sorry but I do not have enough knowledge about these boards to tell.
I had this same problem with a Cleveland tilt skillet. Would work fine on Low fire. Put it on high fire and the Honeywell would flash 6 times for internal control fault. COM and 24 were reversed. Luckily I found it b4 replacing control even though that was my first diagnosis but something told me to dig deeper.
Looks like there was some good hackery on that unit. Great find. In my experience if ya reset a code 8 and it runs fine and all wiring is good the board is pooched. Most code 8s re appear later down the road.
I always admired you commercial guys, Had the opportunity to move that way a while back with my current company. I had done some commercial with my prior company and was ok at it, but chose to stay in my lane with residential. I supervise a 12 man residential team so I like to think I made the right choice. But still like watching you guys. Residential 2 stage is similar, need to energize in the proper sequence. Just curious, with that big open hole in that condenser panel, would that not cause high head pressure in AC with that bypass air, especially combined with a dirty coil? I need to watch more of your stuff.
Thanks for watching! I did cover that open hole with some sheet metal but I didn’t film it. I did resi for about 14 years. I like both sides but the commercial stuff is more enjoyable for me. Thanks again!
There are actually some units like this that the disconnect is in the place of the hole on the condenser panel. They make all the panels the same even if your disconnect is in a different place, it's common to see these knock-out panels missing, I always cover them as Ryan said, it will bypass some condenser air flow
You are correct, the brown/uninsulated spade is always common. This was either not the correct board or an updated board with slightly different pin locations.
The uninsulated spade should have been the common to the gas valve on virtually every carrier for the last 40 yrs, the new board may have had slightly different pin locations than the original but hard to blame the guy who installed it for putting the wires back exactly where they came from. I've looked and hundreds of those wiring diagrams and It does 1000% show you on the wiring diagram which wires go where by color or number and it would show that the gas valve was wired correctly according to the diagram. My guess would be that the boards installed were not the original part #, Carrier went through several iterations of that same board that all look and function almost identically and occasionally they even intentionally change pin locations on electronics for their down brand equipment to prevent people from buying cheaper replacement parts. Any time you're given a replacement/updated board to install you need to check EVERYTHING after installation. These boards will also give that code if the transformer tap was never switched on install and may not happen until the transformer "breaks in". You will also occasionally get that code from those boards just from having a bad/corroded connection at the gas valve because the input terminals at the gas valve tend to get snow on them in high winds. Also bad grounds and open or low impedance coils for the gas valve will give this code. And one time, literally ONE time I had the ignition wire bundle that runs down into the burner compartment get so overheated from a bad HX that the insulation had partially melted passing a stray voltage from a pair of the wires that were touching even though the insulation between them was not 100% melted through so manually separate all the wires as a precaution, if any of them stick together they were overheated and could cause a problem .
Way to be a technician instead of a part changer. Great catch for sure! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the kind words!
Awesome troubleshooting! 😊
I appreciate it!
Good catch, Ryan! Nice video. You would think it would've blown the fuse, I guess the board was doing its job. Agree on the belt, too tight.
Thanks Steve! Not the most complex stuff but definitely had me scratching my head for a minute.
Good skills.
Thanks for watching
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Nice Troubleshooting.
Good catch
Thanks Dustin
Absolutely a good find here's to warmer Temps and more HUGHESMAN AND MISFITS
Appreciate ya Chris! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the shoutout! We're glad you've got the gear you need while it's still chilly out there.
Any time! Can’t wait for winter to get here!
Really good find. Not sure I would’ve found that.
Thanks Curtis!
This guy does some GREAT editing and production on these videos !! Keep them coming !!
Thanks! Will do!
We’ll done Ryan! Master level catch right there!
Master level…. Ummm. I appreciate the comment man thanks!
Brother. This first time I see some things like that. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Good diagnostics, usually the 8 code comes from corrosion in the gas valve and isn’t as repeatable. Cycle power and it goes away, for a while. Then you get a call back and the board gets replaced and it goes away, for a while.
Yo nice find, that's why you take your time and figure it out 🤙🏽
For sure! Thanks Adrian!
Such a good feeling when you figure it out. I feel that lol 😂
Yeah I may have gotten a little excited about it but it’s better then having no idea what the problem was 😂 thanks for watching!
Welcome back to Erie! You must've been here during the last week of March, based on that weather. I was working very close to your location that day.
Very cool! You are correct!
Good find, you did your due diligence on this one. Nice video Ryan
Thanks Mike!
Nice troubleshooting Ryan ... Nice vid as well and much appreciated ...
Thanks for watching Eddy!
Good one Ryan 👍
Thanks Greg
Very good catch and troubleshooting, I haven't seen anyone check gas pressures. Maybe no one deals with Ultra-Low NOx RTU yet.
Never had that happen before.....great find Ryan....well done bro.
Thanks 👍
Good find Ryan, Very thorough.
Thanks!
Great Video Brother
WELL DONE. I get suspicious when a board is called for, makes me want to poke around too, helps confirm my stance. Good to know about that rather general internal control fault!
Awesome!
Good job Ryan. Nice find . Great diagnostic skills man. Summer is coming.
Nice 👍 vidéo man🎉🎉❤ nice adjustment on that gaz pressure 👍👍👌
Thanks for watching!
I learned something new 🎉😊
Thanks for watching!
Man you guys are on no heat calls , it’s 88 down here in Mississippi
It did hit 83° today but will probably be 43° tomorrow 😂
Refrigerware 👍🏽👍🏽
Very nice catch and overall repair👏
Thank you very much!
Great troubleshooting man, super helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Nice job Ryan. Good catch on the wiring.
Thanks man! I appreciate you watching!
Awesome stuff Ryan! With this being mys first heating season this info will be invaluable.
This is my first time watching your videos. I m planning to start offering services on commercial unit. How do you price all repairs, what kind of % you do on all parts and what is the average diagnosis that you charge? Thanks!
The office takes care of that
Love your attitude and love your tech skills. I had a similar issue at a Shipley's Donuts here in Houston TX. Though we don't use heat much here! Thanks for sharing!
Nice catch. Had a Daikin RTU do this to me once when the coil went bad in the gas valve
Nice job ryan
Thanks!
Awesome diagnostic.
Thanks! Appreciate ya!
Comstar was a Refrigerant manufacturer that made R-22 replacement refrigerant. If I remember right it did not sell very well and I think it had a really high glide. The last time I heard anything about the company was like 15 years ago.
I googled them after I was done on that call. I had never heard of them before
@@HughesManHVAC It looks like Comstar Refrigerants is still in business. I just Googled Comstar Refrigerants and it came up. There under the name Comstar International, and they make several different refrigerants.
Is that a new Veto? How’s a bout a load out video?!?! Thanks for the great content 💯
Yes it is! I will get on that.. thanks for watching!
@@HughesManHVAC wheeeew dawg! Let’s get it
Great video brother! Maybe next time you can identify each part for rookies like me! I just graduated from HVAC school and need more hands on training! Nonetheless great video! thank you sir!
I guess it wouldn't blow the fuse, interesting it worked in low fire, still trying to wrap my brain around that, good stuff, Great diagnostic skills 💪
If the hi fire wire was disconnected it worked like a single stage valve or if it was only calling for first stage. If both stages were calling it would give the 8 flash code until I reversed common and 1st stage heat at the valve. I was definitely getting the 24v at the common terminal on the gas valve and not at the low fire terminal. After I swapped them everything worked fine and the valve acted properly and adjusted gas pressure when hi fire was called.
@HughesMan HVAC just trying to think electrically what exactly was happening, the board obviously caught the problem. My first thought was your feeding 24 volts to common, the fuse should blow, but you're not shorting it out. You are feeding the common of the valve with 24 volts. Good stuff Bro, someone smart on here will probably give a great answer, I'm not that guy 😆 .
@@EverythingHVACR me either! Just happy it’s working now! 😅
@@HughesManHVAC Never worked with gas but to me it looks like a two stage gasvalve is just two solenoids basically. So if the common on the gas valve is not connected to earth and is just one of each end of the solenoid coils tied together. Then you could swap them and one coil would work by itself. But if you have the other one connected aswell 24v would be on both sides of the second stage coil and it would not energize and 24v could possibly backfeed to something.
I am sorry but I do not have enough knowledge about these boards to tell.
I had this same problem with a Cleveland tilt skillet. Would work fine on Low fire. Put it on high fire and the Honeywell would flash 6 times for internal control fault. COM and 24 were reversed. Luckily I found it b4 replacing control even though that was my first diagnosis but something told me to dig deeper.
Looks like there was some good hackery on that unit. Great find. In my experience if ya reset a code 8 and it runs fine and all wiring is good the board is pooched. Most code 8s re appear later down the road.
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching!
I always admired you commercial guys, Had the opportunity to move that way a while back with my current company. I had done some commercial with my prior company and was ok at it, but chose to stay in my lane with residential. I supervise a 12 man residential team so I like to think I made the right choice. But still like watching you guys. Residential 2 stage is similar, need to energize in the proper sequence. Just curious, with that big open hole in that condenser panel, would that not cause high head pressure in AC with that bypass air, especially combined with a dirty coil? I need to watch more of your stuff.
Thanks for watching! I did cover that open hole with some sheet metal but I didn’t film it. I did resi for about 14 years. I like both sides but the commercial stuff is more enjoyable for me. Thanks again!
There are actually some units like this that the disconnect is in the place of the hole on the condenser panel. They make all the panels the same even if your disconnect is in a different place, it's common to see these knock-out panels missing, I always cover them as Ryan said, it will bypass some condenser air flow
“8 flashes. Internal Control Fault. Alright… so what the hell does that mean?”
something I would say 🤣🤣
Thanks for watching blogger!
I may be wrong, but I think Carrier always uses brown as common.
You are correct, the brown/uninsulated spade is always common. This was either not the correct board or an updated board with slightly different pin locations.
Make a special Wasp 🐝 Killer Special Edition Hat please for purchase
😂 great idea
10 dogecoins for u great job 😂😂😂
👍
did I hear that correct, 1.78"wc? I live in Alberta and we adjust our gas valves to 3.5"wc. anyone know why such a large gap?
I’d have to go back and watch the video but we set 1st of heat at 1.7” WC and 2nd stage at 3.5”WC
you think that came from factory that way? or was someone else in there at the valve?
Someone was just working on it, I was sent back on a recall
Is the blower motor nonstop when you got 8 flashes?
Combustion blower was
The uninsulated spade should have been the common to the gas valve on virtually every carrier for the last 40 yrs, the new board may have had slightly different pin locations than the original but hard to blame the guy who installed it for putting the wires back exactly where they came from. I've looked and hundreds of those wiring diagrams and It does 1000% show you on the wiring diagram which wires go where by color or number and it would show that the gas valve was wired correctly according to the diagram. My guess would be that the boards installed were not the original part #, Carrier went through several iterations of that same board that all look and function almost identically and occasionally they even intentionally change pin locations on electronics for their down brand equipment to prevent people from buying cheaper replacement parts. Any time you're given a replacement/updated board to install you need to check EVERYTHING after installation. These boards will also give that code if the transformer tap was never switched on install and may not happen until the transformer "breaks in". You will also occasionally get that code from those boards just from having a bad/corroded connection at the gas valve because the input terminals at the gas valve tend to get snow on them in high winds. Also bad grounds and open or low impedance coils for the gas valve will give this code. And one time, literally ONE time I had the ignition wire bundle that runs down into the burner compartment get so overheated from a bad HX that the insulation had partially melted passing a stray voltage from a pair of the wires that were touching even though the insulation between them was not 100% melted through so manually separate all the wires as a precaution, if any of them stick together they were overheated and could cause a problem .
You forgot to mount the wire for high gas again on unit no. 2
Naw, I put it back on when I buttoned up the unit before I left.
I was wondering who was gonna point that out first, good eye 👁️
@@HughesManHVAC Good work
The most simple issues can be the most pain in the ass.
72 thumbs up
Thanks Steve!
refridger who ?
Refrigiwear….. I love them and you will too! Thanks for the comment Neil!
New gas valve, inducer, control board, heat extanger and motor. Just buy a new unit it's cheaper.
I had a jumper from w1 w2. I removed the jumper and I had ignition and no code. Put the jumper back on and it took off on high fire.