Prevent Leaking Differentials - ARRMA RC
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2021
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Been wondering why after multiple attempts my front diff kept leaking... turns out the center hole in the main gear has overtime gotten loose. A new main gear solved the issue.
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What a great 1 ET! Arrma gonna call u to build their next basher.. or should 😅
That's a good point buddy I never thought about the centre hole being worn out, great video buddy good job👍😉👊
Great job explaining everything in such detail. amazing content as always.
I like your work ethics. Good job brother.
Thanks!!
Awesome video man! Appreciate the tips
Another great video, great tips as always 👍🏻
Thanks for the good tips. 👊😊
Thanks for the tips and tricks brother 👍🏻👊🏻
You are the man very good pointers and tips thank you my brother
Super informative video Bro . Thank you 👍
Awesome Video brother. 👍👊
The diff Cup can wear down too aswell as the center hole.
Tip: sanding somthing flat do a figure of 8 motion
Good tips 😎
Nice job, lil grease on input shafts those are the better bearings .
Hi mate the sandpaper is what I do but I don't use the standard differential cups because you will find that if you hold where the bearing goes on and the cup you will find the metal part spins in the cup. I use GPM differentials housings and Japanese bearings are better quality bearings. One other thing is I put the shimms on the inside of the bearings it just makes it easier to put diff's in 👍👍😷😷🤪🤣
Interesting, I’ve never heard of those Japanese bearings. Maybe send me a link I’ll be curious to see those. As far as the metal inlet that’s connected to the composite cups from stock I’ve never had any issues with those spinning. But I can see how that could happen under a malfunctioning situation. I actually Don’t see how those little thin shims could work on the inside of the bearing. Because the whole point of those shims being so thin is that they have zero impact on the bearing itself and just sit (or press) up against the very outer edge of the bearing if you put it on the inside there’s still a 5 mm gap Between the inner side of the bearing and the backside of the main gear for it to fall around and be irritating when putting in. However using some grease to stick it to the side makes life easier which side they’re placed on the bearing. But whatever works works lol thanks for chiming in I really appreciate your comments
Hey tactics are 7:05 what causes the o rings to become flat 😒please is it the need to shim the centre diff as that’s my issue so the inputs do not have lateral play in and out if diff causing the flat o ring 🤔 small leaks left long enough causing me headaches all new parts except diff housing to hold oil is 1year old not much use as was always bound up no the bind has been cut away. Now seeping centre diff is always on the list
I may not be 100% sure what you’re talking about, from my experience the little O-rings don’t flatten in my experience there’s a special cut out section in the housing for it to sit down into which pretty much gives it the space to never get squeezed into a flattened state. As far as shimming your center differential I certainly would recommend doing the classic bulletproof 1,2,1,2… with the stock shims internally. Also depending on how old your model vehicle is there are better low profile shams that sit behind the planetary gears that do protect that oh ring and also help prevent leaks. It’s slightly larger than the old V3 versions but smaller (thinner)than the mugin sieki (behind the sun gear) shims.
Mine don't leak yet
Hey buddy I was wondering if RTV gasket sealer would help for a leaking diff if it's leaking at the gasket? My 3s typhon is leaking in the rear and shouldn't have any play. I'm just trying to get it fixed up without having to order and wait on gaskets. Fiqured id try it anyway.
It most certainly wouldn’t hurt to try it. Let me know the results if you find it does work.
Chris, please update us on the 3s diffs. It’s the single worst thing about the 3s line. I am debating going to the new 4s diffs since the gear is metal.
I had a similar thought… On the cheap, I may try Tekjo gaskets with a gasket sealer. It’s just a lot of cleaning and prepping to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry
Are you putting Mugen Seiki shims under both sun gears? I remember you said it made the diff too tight in old video.
It’s been hit or miss for me with different diffs cups. Sometimes they actually do make it too tight. Other times they don’t. More often than not though having one at both ends tends to create an issue. So if you’ve got thinner stock shims For behind the planetary gears on hand, Go with those to sidestep the potential chance.
Any link to those o rings? I bought some on Amazon that said it was for the v5 but are too big..
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not gonna have my kraton tuned in time for the long jump comp. i was wondering the reasoning for tuning the droop without the pin in bottom shock end?
By disconnecting One of the ends of your shocks, you take the pressure off of your a arms. Which allows you to loosen or tighten your droop and very easily be able to “see“ the rise or fall of the A arms as you turn The droop screw.
It’s also very difficult to know if you are putting a little bit of a squeeze on your shock if it’s connected while you’re twisting. you want the shock rod to be extended 100% so that you can see it’s full reach. In relation to where you end up leaving the droop setting.
with a shock rod fully extended you can then eyeball that you’re going to need to squeeze it a little bit and then slide in the pin.
Does that make sense?
@@EastTactics YESSIR. Happy Father's day btw, and this response just gained you a new Patreon member. :D
Nice, thank you so much my friend!
do you have nuts at the ends of the hinge pins??
Ya. 😎💪
ua-cam.com/video/tc9PxvyItQo/v-deo.html
Nice video think everyone deals with a leaky diff 🤪 but on ur diff cup you got that groove from the ring pinion gear rubbing on it. I see that on alot of diff cups is that normal. I would think not. But what see what you 🤔👊👊👊
I want to say that is pretty normal, but more importantly I don’t think it’s a signal of anything particularly bad. My guess is that happens on a hard nosedive, or during a moment of extreme flex through the entire chassis where The center drive shafts are squeezed or pressed hard against the cup because of the flex of the chassis. During that short moment of spin the spiral input gear bites into the Diff cup a little bit. But then goes back to normal once the impact is over. I guess in a way too it’s an indication that you’ve got a pretty tight mesh between your spiral input gear and your main gear. And if you’re not hearing any weird clicking noise or anything the tighter the better to prevent stripping teeth.
Anybody else reading this, I am welcome to your thoughts
True anyone of them things could cause it. But I think it is tight from factory. May not be bad but I wouldn't think it shouldn't happen. But yes tight mess is better. But I was just curious on ur thoughts 👊. Thanks for the reply
Hey man I had to rebuilt the diffs in my Arma outcast and I just rebuilt them all again cuz I still was hearing something making like a grinding noise and they're all fine I put new gears in them again even though the other ones will still fine put it all back together shimmed it is still making like the grind noise I do have new input gears on the way so hopefully that can fix it but if that ain't the case what else could be making that noise it literally sounds like a gear slippage or a grinding or something I can't figure it out save my life and like I said I just rebuilt all three diffs again sitting here watching the Bengals game and took it out still doing it
The new spiral input gears will fix it
@@EastTactics yeah that's the only thing I could think of hey another quick question I just noticed it on your video that I'm commenting on the like where in the middle of the diff case what's that from was mine has that too take the outside of the actual differential or where you put the spider gears the little black case the wire marks in the middle is what's that from
Yeah I'm waiting on the input shaft spiral gear whatever it is the ones that stay in the truck not the ones on the outside of the diff case I already changed them too it's the only thing left is the actual input shaft spiral gear
Was asking what the where marks in the center of the diff case are from I seen them on yours in your video and they're on mine too
Oh, those are from the spiral input gear. Basically at some point during hard landings the flex squeezes that input gear close to that cup and just leaves a mark on it
Superb vid bro! However, any idea how to know when to add shims to the diffs? My K6S V5 is about 10 packs in and I’m not sure if I should attempt adding diff shims and changing the fluids to 60k front, 500k center and 20k rear.
There’s really no wrong time to go in and change the differential fluids to a different load out. Some people do it right out of the box because They would rather have specific performance attributes. Particularly with the center differential.
Many people recommend that on day one you should go in and check/upgrade your differentials because sometimes they come from stock with not enough fluid in them. So it’s a good idea to go in and double check. And a lot of times people will change things up then.
Other people will wait until they have an issue to make any changes. Are you having any issues? Have you noticed any overly dirty areas around any of your differentials? Like you see in this video. If not, then you might be fine to not have to worry about adding any shims as a necessity. But you might want to go in and change your fluids. Not to mention with the V5 I believe you’ve got limited slip differential‘s which actually incorporate a couple of unique things that I’m not 100% familiar with. So you might want to search a few UA-cam videos on best practices for a limited slip differential‘s. Or how to bulletproof your limited slip differential‘s. Again particularly only if you’re having issues. I know a few people that actually don’t really like the limited slip differential and have converted back to the classic open style.
In my V4
I run 20k rear
Silicon earplugs center
80k front
20, 500, 60 is just fine too.
Now, as far as when you know that you need to go in and shims, Is when you start finding that your differentials are stripping easily they are not pushes close enough together. So frequent stripping may occur. If you’ve been through 10 packs and the differentials are solid then you’re probably fine not to do anything to the internals except for maybe again change up your fluids.
No… As far as the outside of your differentials. It’s easy to tell if you need to ask him there because once you place your differentials into their setting, you can literally feel the side to side slop. Put as many showings as necessary to eliminate that. (On the left side of the bearing on the left side of the differential. This pushes the maingear deeper into the spiral input gear
I do have a playlist that goes into Great detail regarding classic differentials for the V-6 lineup
If you have any other questions let me know.
Start to Finish Differential tips ua-cam.com/play/PL9UjUE_DygV__OGUnklFgS0Y-8niaTwxe.html
@@EastTactics bruh, you’re the man! Thank you, sincerely, for taking the time to explain all this! You deserve SO MANY MORE subs! Keep at it my guy! A+ 👍🏽💯
@@saltylocal6917 Thanks Salty!