Remove the shocks when doing any suspension shimming. When you are done the arm should be able to completely drop freely under its own weight. If not take out shims or file/sand material until you get the arm pivoting completely free. You can't tell by actuating the arm with the shock installed. At that point you are just guessing! Side note you can get stainless shims in a kit that you can actually stack to get the proper thickness needed without binding things up. Kyosho and TRB make shims! Cheers!~
Thanks for the info even though the video is a bit older! I recently picked up a nitro HPI after 10 years away from the hobby and god damn theres so much play in all the joints! Makes you wonder how does it even go straight! Probably all the parts fight eachother as it goes down the road 😅 I might go the distance on mine with these tips! Appreciated!
Appreciate you watching my videos. Yeah this one’s a bit old. But it is a gem of knowledge and I’m glad that you can incorporate it into your situation. It’s been a bit since I’ve dropped a new video because of the winter. But I do plan on dropping some new content real soon
So glad I stumbled across this video. As I'm a newbie to rc cars I wasn't sure if I could do something like this cause the slop drives me nuts. I thought i had put something together wrong.? Do they have to be plastic? Or will metal work?
Hello sir how are you I like your video cuz I'm having a lot of issues with my vehicles very sloppy do you have a link where I can get all those washers from
It's good to get rid of slop but you need to be careful not to add a bunch of friction to the suspension. Putting those washers on the upper rod end and having to jam it into the hub carrier means that you're adding significant amounts of friction to that pivot point. Any additional friction is going to mess with the vehicle's handling. You also need to be careful about adding a bunch of preload to those small bearings. It's going to cause them to wear out a lot faster.
Valid points. No detectable difference tho. Since the rear is a pretty static system, limited to just up and down movements, the amount tightened vs the leverage at the end of the arm quite negligible. As far as the hub carrier, nothing was jammed. Just cleared up existing slop is all. In fact I recommend putting the shim/washer on the inside (over the cvd axle first) this pushes the drive shaft a hair deeper into the diff drive cups, which is always a good thing.
@@RCConceptsx … I don’t see where the bushings add resistance to wheel spin. Their only installed where the suspension hinges are so the only resistance in during a landing from a jump. After a couple runs and lube it’ll be loosened up .
Normally I'd agree but like have you felt how heavy the tires are we use? Especially if they're belted medium or hard compound lol! A little friction with a lot of weight mostly offsets eachother. Think real car - captured ball ends/rod ends/ bushings and wheel bearings - all of them are extremely "tight" when trying to manipulate them by hand, or don't feel free moving but when all assembled in a hundreds pound arm assembly without strut/spring/shock installed everything moves extremely smoothly - under its weight. Same concept can apply to our bigger, heavier vehicles in RC. Would I do something like this on a 10th scale truck/car? Fuck no, except maybe an all brass/aluminum crawler setup. But these big trucks? As long as the arm assembly moves freely under its own weight then snug is a good thing 🤷♂️ it'll arguably make the turnbuckle ends and bearings last longer
I think the slop is good for a basher, if everything is snug with very tight tolerance your gonna break some stuff very quick....I believe the slop is in certain places for a reason....now on a speed car or on road car I would agree with you and fixing some of that slop is the key to going fast and straight.... I'm not to concerned tho with my bashers....👍👍
Fair enough… I’ve noticed zero negative side effects of getting rid of these high slop points. Maybe it just the peace of mind of knowing she’s not jiggly in those areas. 😜
@@EastTactics and I can agree with that cause honestly some slop maybe necessary maybe not, but the factory could probably take out some slop, cause some are worse than others...some are really bad...
It´s basher, the hole car is SLOPPY from the arms to the wheels. I think it´s more useful ONROAD, speedruns, etc. But thanks I´ll keep these plasticwashers in mind.
Slop must be intentional by the manufacturers since most rc vehicles have them. Especially bashers. Maybe the high rpm of the wheels and the ability for things to move laterally creating a gyroscopic balance. I’m not sure just some food for thought.
The common occurrence of slop in the industry I wouldn’t say it’s intentional. It’s more likely that manufactures just don’t have time to clean it up, and mass production simply doesn’t accommodate for perfection. So getting rid of it yourself is definitely a plus and is better for the vehicle.
5:01 ? that link is not intended to prevent motion in that direction; the bottom of the hub / and bottom arm pivots do that. That link is for camber, not toe lol. If you have play (slop lol) in the wheel's camber, replace the link ends. in my experience the plastic is "soft" and eventually starts to stretch out via the two hinges, / both ends of the lower rear arms. that ball link shimmed is silly, that said the end links are soft and will develop play / slop in the camber of the wheel; if i understand tekno ones fit and are a better composite. Great vid and had some good tips!
Hey no worries brother thanks for the comment. In my experience those two M5 plastic washers on either side of that rear turnbuckle rod made the most significant improvement in cleaning up overall slop in the tire assembly as a whole. And with zero negative impact on motion. 😎👍
I did something similar to this last night on my Fireteam but not to this extent. I just wonder if anyone noticed any real difference in driving or not? Would be nice if this improves the driving experience.
Nice! I think the two biggest “notice“ points that can be made from this upgrade are mostly in the peace of mind that you don’t have slop and rattles in our high-end rigs. But also in the lack of potential breakage. I do think that cleaning up the slop does lend a level of strength to those areas that would otherwise perhaps overtime, break
Why are you worried about slop on a basher? If that was a race car then yeah but arrma will never be anything other then a basher so run it until it breaks lol
Cleaning up slop increases tolerance for long-term resistance is to wear. It also minimizes flashpoint impact, which again correlates mostly to the long-term wear. So it’s a good thing to clean up the slop. Plus it just feels really nice to see that your tires are just simply less wobbly LOL. 💪💪😎
Hey brother, I'm having the hardest time removing that 2.5mm, I think arma used red threadlock (which sucks) and I dont want to strip it . . . . especially since it's deep in there like that. I will try using some heat with a blow torch too. . any advice would be appreciated .
Fortunately, with a decent head, that grub screw is nice and deep so it is a lot harder for it to strip, just make sure you 100% get it seated all the way in. However, using heat is always a good idea too. A blow torch will work, however, next time you’re at a Walmart or some store similar. Maybe even a gas station. Pick up one of those butane lighters. Those things work great for the use case.
@@EastTactics Yea I think that may be it...... I think I Need a new clean head for this job....... and I'll try the butane lighter instead, that my do the trick..... I took out those pins a while ago without taking out the 2.5mm. . . .with brute force. . . No wonder it was soooooo hard lol . . . . u made look like cake..... helps to take out those 2.5mm .... I see. lol. thanks for the help man!
The need to apply heat only really comes in to play where Loctite is involved. There are countless places all over these rigs with screws that are not locktite sealed. And they strip all too easy. Just a quality of arrma screws. That’s why I started using torque screws in many places.
Thx for this info bud yeah some will say adding friction I mean its not ENUFF to change anything worth worrying about and i say loose is fast BUT loose isn't durable so the slop gotta go bye-bye. 💪🏼👍🏼
Are you referring to the metal ones are the plastic ones? The metal ones I can’t be sure. However the plastic ones come in a kit which is basically all kinds of different sizes that I’m sure you can make work around your vehicle. Link to the kit in the description.
You should buy a tire balancer and balance your tires if you haven't. Otherwise, that slop will come back pretty quick. Balancing my wheels and tires made a world of difference in all-around performance and prolonged the life of the bearings and plastic suspension parts. I need one of those plastic washer boxes. You always find the cool stuff, lol.
Why wouldn't Arrma address this issue in manufacturing tolerances? I can't help but think there is a reason for it....flex? Either way, thanks for the video.
What a great tip! The slop annoys me so much. I would like to have a huge range of shims of all sorts of shims to put them anywhere where there is slop. But they are so expensive and hard to find.
I would have been one to say that using those washers would cause friction. But the fact that the screw that goes through the washers and the pivot ball has a nut on the opposite end with nylon, means you only need to tighten it down just enough to remove the slop. Another alternative would be to find M5 aluminum rod ends.
No, if anything removing slop helps to prevent damage. Vibrational impact is subtle. But overtime it can create undue wear on parts. After cleaning that stuff up. I would expect to see longevity in those areas
Myself I think it would bring premature breakage, I think the slop is for a reason...the factory didn't send the cars out and not notice the slop, it is for a reason. But I'm not saying anyone is wrong for taking the slop out of there car...
🤔 Think of it from a physics perspective, think of an example where an extremely exaggerated amount of slop existed. Let’s say two points have a 3 inch gap in a large machine. And the rods end smacks back-and-forth and extremely high speeds and Encompassing 6 inches of back-and-forth smacking over and over For long periods of time. Then a mechanic brings attention to this area and decides to put large spacers on both sides to prevent that back-and-forth slapping. Which do you think would last longer? Letting it be, or cleaning up that slop? The same concept applies for very minimal mechanical gaps of slop. It may seem small gaps but that repetitive vibration actually does wear on the parts A lot faster than if they were snuggly (but not over tight) in place. Slop is a common oversight for mass production would you normally find for manufactures it is something that we ourselves can clean up. Now one thing that the manufacturers do take into consideration is building break points and weak points on purpose to protect more expensive parts. This you will see in many places. A good example is the sheer fact that you never see aluminum wing mounts, these are specifically built to break to protect other parts. There are others as well. If slop is never cleaned up though I do agree that it’s not that big a deal.
Nice Tactics video as always brother. I feel like the one that helped the most was the two shims you added to the outer hub. Even after sealed bearings I have noticed the slop and after bashing hard it always listens things up a bit with bad and side landings. I need to order these shims for sure, also like the plastic shim kit you had. I always have a Jenny's RC Hardware kit or two for all my rigs, but always need more plastic shims. Great stuff brother See ya round
2:26 yeeaaaa but how free moving are the knuckles? i can get OEM to next to zero slop but then drag starts to become an issue. it would have been really interesting if you took the shocks and servo horn off and checked how free moving stuff actually is
To be honest, in my opinion, the benefit of less slop weighed against the level of free movement taken away, at least, for a basher is worth it to actually add the shims. it’s not really a logical use case test to remove the shocks and other parts to see how free moving they are. Sure there’s a chance that if I remove all those components that you might see a little bit of stiffness, or friction if he will. However, the fact of the matter is those shocks are there, and they definitely override any friction issues. In other words, when I push my vehicle down all the way by hand, the shocks always bring it back up at the same speed I’m used to. To your point if I noticed that there was so much friction that my shocks couldn’t bring the vehicle back up or it slowed way down. I would definitely take issue with that. Now to your point if I were using these type of shims, or adding this type of friction to the front end, and it impeded my steering, for sure, I would have issue with that as well. but as far as the rear goes, yes, those shims add a bit of stiffness to the set up. But nothing that the shocks don’t override if that makes sense. Also, keep in mind that as a basher, I’m a little bit less interested in minute performance increases then if say, I were in circuit racing or buggy racing. As a basher It’s not too big a deal to me. But I still see your point, and it’s a good consideration to think about. Definitely don’t want to over tighten them and add too much friction when putting those shims in though. Wow… I feel like that answer was really long winded and I might’ve repeated myself a lot. Oh well I’ll just go with it. 😎
Happy new year everyone✌🏼 I got a lot of info on your channel when I started with my kraton a few weeks ago. Always good videos👍 I further reduced the slop on mine by sticking some tape on some plastic washers. Now it's pretty stiff, but still gives a bit under pressure. Might have to do it again depending how much I drive it. Keep up the good work. ✌🏼
Thx my friend. The two M5 washers that I added on either side of the turnbuckle for the rear slop, was a huge contributor to tightening things up back there. 😎👍
These videos are MAGIC! Sooooo well done - thank you - was totally looking at Traxxas then came across these videos and bought a Kraton 6S EXB - fun hobby greatly boosted by these videos - EXCELLENT
I only run aluminum knuckles and hubs in my vehicles. The plastic ones are junk. Hot racing are good but Custom Rc Uk are better if they make it for your vehicle.
Luv it, I am definitely sold on the importance of placing the best possible bumper you can in the rear. In fact! There’s a nee king in town. The EXB Basher bumper is now going to be my go to for the rear. See coconuts video on the how to, for implementing this tactic. ua-cam.com/video/c7SjkdykIqI/v-deo.html
Great idea! But does it really make a difference for a basher? I hate slop also and im real particular about these things but does it really hurt performance? I really appreciate your tips and wrenching videos brotha! Keep them coming!
It’s not particularly required to do this, in fact most people don’t even really think of it. And typically because we’re not focused on super precision performance, turning etc. All we care about is lining it up to the next jump right LOL. That said, cleaning up the slop can actually improve durability to a very small degree and prevent the chances of breakages. Typically more your long-term where type of breakages.
Nothing worse than slop in your rc ! Drives me crazy for 700 you would think that the engineers could design a slop-less ride . Had to do the same thing with diff approach. Great video keep rolling I enjoyed watching.
The green screwdriver, is a simple ratcheting/universal screwdriver that allows for classic quick detach bits to fit into it. I'll see if I can find one and add it into my master link (i did). As far as the Bits them self in the stand, I think I have a new video I created on that. Here's the link ua-cam.com/video/gov56EolTK0/v-deo.html
Lol... Keen eye my friend! Actually I’ve been meaning to go in and reinstall the stock front bumper, which is actually a mini piece that fits in above the RPM bumper. It’s this front bumper piece that actually holds in those pins from sliding out. It snapped off when I was doing the testing on the shock absorption project with my high powered fans. My first attempt at hitting the jump ended in a hard-core Nose dive on concrete LOL. Here’s that vid- ua-cam.com/video/z91Px9dArXY/v-deo.html Anyway I have since ordered the part and I have it here I just need to go in and reattach it. The exposed pin is only out farther because i simply need to push it in. After close inspection of the actual carrier, it’s not bent. Either way though in the next week or so I’ll be installing some M2C Front hinge pins to upgrade her. I really appreciate you pointing that out, fortunately I knew about it this time however imagine if I was unaware and took her out without those Front hinge pins being locked in place. That could’ve been disastrous. Thanks again for watching my videos.
great video bro. Yeh even my EXB has slop brand new before i ran her i notice that. I didn't know that you get rid of all that slop. Im sure the car will driver better with very little slop right? did you notice a big difference in performance?
Not a ton when moving fast, but you can definitely tell there’s less wobble at slower speeds when she glides by. Also having less slop over the long run is actually going to lend quite a bit of longevity to those parts effected. And well... There’s something just satisfying about getting rid of it. LOL
Hey bro I posted a new video please check it out whenever you get a chance. My outcast is making some weird noise when I give it throttle. Only foward backward it's normal.
The front has more play than a game of dodge ball. At least for the 1/5 Kraton., it’s everywhere…. Mostly the upper A-arms pivot from front to back and it changes the front wheel caster angle which will affect turning bite bcs the more caster you have, the more the tire leans on its wall and does not keep a 180 degree contact patch on the ground. I thought of washers but it seems like the hole on the A-arm where the hinge pin slips through is too big and the steel pin is thinner so there’s slop 360 degrees. I’d imagine AM parts have lesser tolerance. I noticed the black aluminum steering blocks on your truck, is there anything else you did to illuminate slop at the front?
they have little clip in washers to clean up that slop on the upper A-arms (typically people center the arm on the pin. Here’s a link amzn.to/3j75198 Adding this shim on right before the 17mm wheel hex helps Shims here amzn.to/3J3914N But really though for the front, the aluminum knuckles have the most impact. amzn.to/3uRqGaJ
@@EastTactics … hey off subject since I got you here, I got the titanium center shafts for the felon and the input cup drive sits crooked once the grub screw is tightened so the shaft wobbles. Not everyone uses the Pinocchio spool and I don’t see ppl complaining about the input cup drive so are mine bad (F&R) and what are ppl using? In most cases I see ppl use the stock ones🤷♂️ but I can’t seem to buy only the input cups in Titanium.
Are you picking up the input cups from scorched parts? So your center driveshafts are third-party and your front and rear input cups are also third-party? All titanium. You’re saying that your front and rear input cups are sitting crooked on the spiral input gear, both front and back? What about your spiral and put gears themselves, are they stock and are they the V5 variant? I know the version five spiral input cups actually have two flat surfaces on the shaft, one is designed for the grub screw and the other is designed for the safeD cup cover screw. Is it possible that the reason why your input cup is not sitting properly is because you’re trying to flatten the main grub crew on the wrong flat face. Pull it off take a closer look, and make sure that your grub screw is being secured to the larger of the two flat faces on the rod. Let me know
@@EastTactics .. yes and yes you got it right. I only see one screw on the cup assembly. The screw mates on the outer most flat side which has a lip on it so the cup can not slide off the shaft. I noticed there is a second hole but there’s no screw. I got my titanium shafts from scorched. I posted a video about them new & having surface defects but the shafts are still perfectly straight minus the finish quality. In stock form both F/R shafts got bend bad and idk htf it happened bcs I haven’t even ran the speed pinion and was still getting used to 6s at the time. Mayyybe the cup situation is a product of that bcs out the box it wasn’t like this and with the titanium shafts it should be even straighter then it was day 1. I am not able to find titanium input drive cups individually on scorched or any place. I do see some shiny steel ones on eBay that have to grub screws on them tho.
@@EastTactics Right on brother! Just trying to get good and solid by the time the snow is gone here. Looks like I'll have plenty of time for that! Bash on my friend!
The nice thing about this (particularly for the rear end) is that it’s super cheap. It’s literally just a cost of the shims. And you can sort of just do this along side upgrades as you go. As far as the knuckles, I consider those a break first upgrade later sort of thing. 👍👍😎
@@EastTactics Well I have some upgrades, all aluminum diff cases, the Arrma two piece model, and all have shims external and internal. I'm planning on getting the Vitavon bulkheads, but really hope they aren't just a waste. I'll be going Vitavon for any upgrades, rather get 7075 for a similar price
Your way will work.. I recommend shims behind the inner bearings to remove the play at the wheels.. you could shim behind the outer bearing but the slop/play that you remove will pull your cvd axle/dogbone that much further from your drive cup..
Interesting, if you think about it though, adding the shim this way, it doesn't move the dog bone in any direction Left or right, it just fills in an existing gap. The metal dowel for instance didn't get impacted, as it wasn't harder for me to wedge the dowel into place. Don't get me wrong, a large enough shim, If it moved the red threaded piece even a tiny degree Outward past the circumference of the little hole. (Making the shim harder to put in) than your appointment would be true, it would slightly shift the dog bone out a hair. However since there was no impact on the dowels insertion the shim simply filled in a gap.
@@EastTactics take the spacer you added out and watch your dogbone as you move your wheel in and out checking the play. You will see that your way, pulls the dog bone that much further from the drive cup at the diff. With a shim behind the inner bearings, that will in deed push that play back into the diff drive cup.. either way is effective though, the play is so minimal..
That makes sense, ya your right. With the shim in it prevents the back and forth movement, while minuscule, it it holds it in the outer position. Placing the shim on the other side (as you mentioned would be ideal. That said, as we both agree, the amount is so small that it doesn’t matter. My apologies you were right tho. 😝👍
Doing the hot racing knuckles but inky seen rears on Amazon . Chassis braces are coming . I ll set the droop at that time too . I couldn’t get 2/3 of them shock caps off but I ll try again with a Vice and ratchet for the top . A crescent and ratchet should have done it but I don’t want to break it , lol . I wonder if an m8 x 10mm will work for the hex shim ? Thanks
That front steering part on the v5 Kraton that hooks to the servo on that plate attached to the knuckles is wobbly on mine . For now I m going to try either some airline tubing or the smallest zip tie or both , for now anyways . Only one tire is wobbly , front right . I did adjust the Marty Feldman front tires like you showed and it worked great but the play is still there . I ll fortune out with the help of these vids and when I actually get into it . I appreciate these cods and will support this channel next paycheck 👍👍. Appreciate ya dude 👏🦅
Happy new year mate. I did the same thing long time ago and with some hole punches you can make your own what ever size or thickness. A cheap set of hole punches cost $10 max.
Other videos say to add shims, they show you their steering knuckle, then never show what a shim actually is or how to install them. So thank you, you rock.
Your videos are awesome, thanks. Quick question are kraton 6s front hubs same or work on either side. I know one side has little tab but I just cut it off and it went on fine. Just didnt know if geometry is slightly different. Thanks
I believe that the stock composite hubs at least the part that is plastic is a universal Or symmetric peace, However the wing attachment itself (where the turnbuckle attaches) is placed on a different side depending on which side of the vehicle the hub is attached. If you pick up the aluminum hot racing hubs, they come marked with an L an R.
Remove the shocks when doing any suspension shimming. When you are done the arm should be able to completely drop freely under its own weight. If not take out shims or file/sand material until you get the arm pivoting completely free. You can't tell by actuating the arm with the shock installed. At that point you are just guessing!
Side note you can get stainless shims in a kit that you can actually stack to get the proper thickness needed without binding things up. Kyosho and TRB make shims!
Cheers!~
I know I’m late but thank you brother. I’ve watched this video when it first came out and those plastic washers are the truth!!!
🤜🤛
Thanks for the info even though the video is a bit older! I recently picked up a nitro HPI after 10 years away from the hobby and god damn theres so much play in all the joints! Makes you wonder how does it even go straight! Probably all the parts fight eachother as it goes down the road 😅
I might go the distance on mine with these tips! Appreciated!
Appreciate you watching my videos. Yeah this one’s a bit old. But it is a gem of knowledge and I’m glad that you can incorporate it into your situation. It’s been a bit since I’ve dropped a new video because of the winter. But I do plan on dropping some new content real soon
So glad I stumbled across this video. As I'm a newbie to rc cars I wasn't sure if I could do something like this cause the slop drives me nuts. I thought i had put something together wrong.? Do they have to be plastic? Or will metal work?
Metal will work. It’s just that kit that I mentioned is perfect in size for what you need.
Hello sir how are you I like your video cuz I'm having a lot of issues with my vehicles very sloppy do you have a link where I can get all those washers from
Direct link to washer kit
amzn.to/3rOwMq4
Nice! Just ordered the o rings and front hubs from your links. Awesome video!
Thanks! Really appreciate that
Que pena no tener traduccion en este video. Me gusto mucho el video de suspensiones a camara lenta.👍
Glad you liked it. So sorry its not translated for you.
Nice intro👍....that's one thing I didn't get a chance to do was run my kraton 6s in the snow🙄
Good helpful video. Thank you
It's good to get rid of slop but you need to be careful not to add a bunch of friction to the suspension. Putting those washers on the upper rod end and having to jam it into the hub carrier means that you're adding significant amounts of friction to that pivot point. Any additional friction is going to mess with the vehicle's handling. You also need to be careful about adding a bunch of preload to those small bearings. It's going to cause them to wear out a lot faster.
Valid points.
No detectable difference tho.
Since the rear is a pretty static system, limited to just up and down movements, the amount tightened vs the leverage at the end of the arm quite negligible.
As far as the hub carrier, nothing was jammed. Just cleared up existing slop is all. In fact I recommend putting the shim/washer on the inside (over the cvd axle first) this pushes the drive shaft a hair deeper into the diff drive cups, which is always a good thing.
@@EastTactics It would be interesting to take before and after temps
@@RCConceptsx … I don’t see where the bushings add resistance to wheel spin. Their only installed where the suspension hinges are so the only resistance in during a landing from a jump. After a couple runs and lube it’ll be loosened up .
Normally I'd agree but like have you felt how heavy the tires are we use? Especially if they're belted medium or hard compound lol! A little friction with a lot of weight mostly offsets eachother.
Think real car - captured ball ends/rod ends/ bushings and wheel bearings - all of them are extremely "tight" when trying to manipulate them by hand, or don't feel free moving but when all assembled in a hundreds pound arm assembly without strut/spring/shock installed everything moves extremely smoothly - under its weight. Same concept can apply to our bigger, heavier vehicles in RC. Would I do something like this on a 10th scale truck/car? Fuck no, except maybe an all brass/aluminum crawler setup. But these big trucks? As long as the arm assembly moves freely under its own weight then snug is a good thing 🤷♂️ it'll arguably make the turnbuckle ends and bearings last longer
I think the slop is good for a basher, if everything is snug with very tight tolerance your gonna break some stuff very quick....I believe the slop is in certain places for a reason....now on a speed car or on road car I would agree with you and fixing some of that slop is the key to going fast and straight.... I'm not to concerned tho with my bashers....👍👍
Fair enough… I’ve noticed zero negative side effects of getting rid of these high slop points. Maybe it just the peace of mind of knowing she’s not jiggly in those areas. 😜
@@EastTactics and I can agree with that cause honestly some slop maybe necessary maybe not, but the factory could probably take out some slop, cause some are worse than others...some are really bad...
It´s basher, the hole car is SLOPPY from the arms to the wheels. I think it´s more useful ONROAD, speedruns, etc. But thanks I´ll keep these plasticwashers in mind.
bearings can also get sloppy over time. my typhon 3s speed run build had slop and i replaced the axles and bearings, also the wheel hexs that helps
Dude. Ty. I been shaking the tires n hubs on my kraton for days wondering how to get rid of that "slop".
Why dosent the manufacturer do this or at least give u the flats in the box.money is my guess
Slop must be intentional by the manufacturers since most rc vehicles have them. Especially bashers. Maybe the high rpm of the wheels and the ability for things to move laterally creating a gyroscopic balance. I’m not sure just some food for thought.
The common occurrence of slop in the industry I wouldn’t say it’s intentional. It’s more likely that manufactures just don’t have time to clean it up, and mass production simply doesn’t accommodate for perfection. So getting rid of it yourself is definitely a plus and is better for the vehicle.
5:01 ? that link is not intended to prevent motion in that direction; the bottom of the hub / and bottom arm pivots do that. That link is for camber, not toe lol. If you have play (slop lol) in the wheel's camber, replace the link ends.
in my experience the plastic is "soft" and eventually starts to stretch out via the two hinges, / both ends of the lower rear arms.
that ball link shimmed is silly, that said the end links are soft and will develop play / slop in the camber of the wheel; if i understand tekno ones fit and are a better composite.
Great vid and had some good tips!
Hey no worries brother thanks for the comment. In my experience those two M5 plastic washers on either side of that rear turnbuckle rod made the most significant improvement in cleaning up overall slop in the tire assembly as a whole. And with zero negative impact on motion. 😎👍
I did something similar to this last night on my Fireteam but not to this extent. I just wonder if anyone noticed any real difference in driving or not? Would be nice if this improves the driving experience.
Nice! I think the two biggest “notice“ points that can be made from this upgrade are mostly in the peace of mind that you don’t have slop and rattles in our high-end rigs. But also in the lack of potential breakage. I do think that cleaning up the slop does lend a level of strength to those areas that would otherwise perhaps overtime, break
Why are you worried about slop on a basher? If that was a race car then yeah but arrma will never be anything other then a basher so run it until it breaks lol
Cleaning up slop increases tolerance for long-term resistance is to wear. It also minimizes flashpoint impact, which again correlates mostly to the long-term wear. So it’s a good thing to clean up the slop. Plus it just feels really nice to see that your tires are just simply less wobbly LOL. 💪💪😎
@@EastTactics lol right on! I make sure my race trucks are top notch my bashers get abused haha. Run it until she doesn't move lol
Slop comes initially from unbalanced tires!!!!!!
Agreed
Hey brother, I'm having the hardest time removing that 2.5mm, I think arma used red threadlock (which sucks) and I dont want to strip it . . . . especially since it's deep in there like that. I will try using some heat with a blow torch too. . any advice would be appreciated .
Fortunately, with a decent head, that grub screw is nice and deep so it is a lot harder for it to strip, just make sure you 100% get it seated all the way in.
However, using heat is always a good idea too.
A blow torch will work, however, next time you’re at a Walmart or some store similar. Maybe even a gas station. Pick up one of those butane lighters. Those things work great for the use case.
@@EastTactics Yea I think that may be it...... I think I Need a new clean head for this job....... and I'll try the butane lighter instead, that my do the trick..... I took out those pins a while ago without taking out the 2.5mm. . . .with brute force. . . No wonder it was soooooo hard lol . . . . u made look like cake..... helps to take out those 2.5mm .... I see. lol. thanks for the help man!
Good Video, Is not too tight after a couple of run? Good video again
Thanks. I’ve loved the mod it’s been great. Do it all my vehicles
the play you had in the right rear at the end was probably the bearings and axle shaft
Apply heat to any screw or nut with a lighter or heat gun will loosen with ease the problem solved you just going to strip things if you don’t do this
The need to apply heat only really comes in to play where Loctite is involved. There are countless places all over these rigs with screws that are not locktite sealed. And they strip all too easy. Just a quality of arrma screws. That’s why I started using torque screws in many places.
@@EastTactics that’s a great idea torque screws I’m so over Allen key screws on rc vehicles been in the rc game for 23 years now
Added the washers and its still loose any other ideas
Loose as in wobbly?
Try to either balance the tires, or try a new set and see if that helps
Thx for this info bud yeah some will say adding friction I mean its not ENUFF to change anything worth worrying about and i say loose is fast BUT loose isn't durable so the slop gotta go bye-bye. 💪🏼👍🏼
Agreed 💯 percent
@@EastTactics yzzzzr 👍🏼✌🏽
The shims will work on typhon V3 4x4 3s?
Are you referring to the metal ones are the plastic ones?
The metal ones I can’t be sure. However the plastic ones come in a kit which is basically all kinds of different sizes that I’m sure you can make work around your vehicle.
Link to the kit in the description.
V5 6'S VERSION 2 CARS Thank god sorted this issue , im picking up my 8s tonight hopefully there built like the version 2 v5 6s
You should buy a tire balancer and balance your tires if you haven't. Otherwise, that slop will come back pretty quick. Balancing my wheels and tires made a world of difference in all-around performance and prolonged the life of the bearings and plastic suspension parts. I need one of those plastic washer boxes. You always find the cool stuff, lol.
Why wouldn't Arrma address this issue in manufacturing tolerances? I can't help but think there is a reason for it....flex? Either way, thanks for the video.
The same reason they don't address there plastic diff cups and metal dog bones on the voltage. They don't care
What a great tip! The slop annoys me so much. I would like to have a huge range of shims of all sorts of shims to put them anywhere where there is slop. But they are so expensive and hard to find.
Can I use a metal washer in place of the shims?
You can, but I wouldn’t really recommend it. The last thing you wanna do is introduce the potential of rust forming in any joint of your rig.
I would have been one to say that using those washers would cause friction. But the fact that the screw that goes through the washers and the pivot ball has a nut on the opposite end with nylon, means you only need to tighten it down just enough to remove the slop. Another alternative would be to find M5 aluminum rod ends.
True
Use small rubber o rings. Slip them over the screws on the turnbuckle ends.
Did all that yesterday when I was putting in new bearings. Some fresh bearings can reduce a little slop too! Great video.
Thx Bobby 😎
Just wondering if taking the slop out will make it break easier 🤔
No, if anything removing slop helps to prevent damage. Vibrational impact is subtle. But overtime it can create undue wear on parts. After cleaning that stuff up. I would expect to see longevity in those areas
Myself I think it would bring premature breakage, I think the slop is for a reason...the factory didn't send the cars out and not notice the slop, it is for a reason. But I'm not saying anyone is wrong for taking the slop out of there car...
🤔
Think of it from a physics perspective, think of an example where an extremely exaggerated amount of slop existed. Let’s say two points have a 3 inch gap in a large machine. And the rods end smacks back-and-forth and extremely high speeds and Encompassing 6 inches of back-and-forth smacking over and over For long periods of time. Then a mechanic brings attention to this area and decides to put large spacers on both sides to prevent that back-and-forth slapping. Which do you think would last longer? Letting it be, or cleaning up that slop?
The same concept applies for very minimal mechanical gaps of slop. It may seem small gaps but that repetitive vibration actually does wear on the parts A lot faster than if they were snuggly (but not over tight) in place.
Slop is a common oversight for mass production would you normally find for manufactures it is something that we ourselves can clean up.
Now one thing that the manufacturers do take into consideration is building break points and weak points on purpose to protect more expensive parts. This you will see in many places. A good example is the sheer fact that you never see aluminum wing mounts, these are specifically built to break to protect other parts. There are others as well.
If slop is never cleaned up though I do agree that it’s not that big a deal.
Nice Tactics video as always brother. I feel like the one that helped the most was the two shims you added to the outer hub. Even after sealed bearings I have noticed the slop and after bashing hard it always listens things up a bit with bad and side landings. I need to order these shims for sure, also like the plastic shim kit you had. I always have a Jenny's RC Hardware kit or two for all my rigs, but always need more plastic shims.
Great stuff brother
See ya round
Regardless irregardless isn't real lol great videos tho , keep it up brotha 💯💪🏾👌🏽🙌
Wow. That’s a huge difference. I just have to find the right size for my Granite.
2:26 yeeaaaa but how free moving are the knuckles? i can get OEM to next to zero slop but then drag starts to become an issue. it would have been really interesting if you took the shocks and servo horn off and checked how free moving stuff actually is
To be honest, in my opinion, the benefit of less slop weighed against the level of free movement taken away, at least, for a basher is worth it to actually add the shims.
it’s not really a logical use case test to remove the shocks and other parts to see how free moving they are. Sure there’s a chance that if I remove all those components that you might see a little bit of stiffness, or friction if he will. However, the fact of the matter is those shocks are there, and they definitely override any friction issues.
In other words, when I push my vehicle down all the way by hand, the shocks always bring it back up at the same speed I’m used to. To your point if I noticed that there was so much friction that my shocks couldn’t bring the vehicle back up or it slowed way down. I would definitely take issue with that.
Now to your point if I were using these type of shims, or adding this type of friction to the front end, and it impeded my steering, for sure, I would have issue with that as well. but as far as the rear goes, yes, those shims add a bit of stiffness to the set up. But nothing that the shocks don’t override if that makes sense.
Also, keep in mind that as a basher, I’m a little bit less interested in minute performance increases then if say, I were in circuit racing or buggy racing. As a basher It’s not too big a deal to me. But I still see your point, and it’s a good consideration to think about. Definitely don’t want to over tighten them and add too much friction when putting those shims in though.
Wow… I feel like that answer was really long winded and I might’ve repeated myself a lot. Oh well I’ll just go with it. 😎
Great video and good information do you have a link for that plastic washer kit?
Happy new year everyone✌🏼
I got a lot of info on your channel when I started with my kraton a few weeks ago.
Always good videos👍
I further reduced the slop on mine by sticking some tape on some plastic washers.
Now it's pretty stiff, but still gives a bit under pressure. Might have to do it again depending how much I drive it.
Keep up the good work.
✌🏼
Thx my friend. The two M5 washers that I added on either side of the turnbuckle for the rear slop, was a huge contributor to tightening things up back there. 😎👍
Great idea. I would sand down the plastic shims a bit.
Hi mate. Loctite make a bearing mount glue that will take slop out of the bearings in the hub's
These videos are MAGIC! Sooooo well done - thank you - was totally looking at Traxxas then came across these videos and bought a Kraton 6S EXB - fun hobby greatly boosted by these videos - EXCELLENT
That is probably one of the best compliments. Thank you so much
Nice work man! wow, my old Rustler had ALLLL KINDS OF SLOP😂🤣😂🤣 I didn't use shims though so I guess that explains it. 👍🏽
Thanks!! Appreciate you watching
Please, Do you Have the Hot Racing number for the part in the front!
amzn.to/3AXDsXY
these ads are brutal
Let me go in and check to see if UA-cam plugged too many of them in. I’ll edit it so it’s not so frustrating. Thanks for the heads up
I went in and I modified it. Took out 25% of the ads
After 5 months, what’s your final verdict on this method? Any downside? Did you experience any binding or undue friction?
No binding, everything is great.
Awesome video thanks for sharing 🥰
This video helped w my slop so much.!!! Awesome video and thanks for your knowledge and service!! Subbed all the way . Life long fan bro
Sweet! Thanks brother, really appreciate that.
going to get the woble out of my kraton now thx very mutch ET new subscriber u got peace
Nice...😎👍Thanks for subbing!
I only run aluminum knuckles and hubs in my vehicles. The plastic ones are junk. Hot racing are good but Custom Rc Uk are better if they make it for your vehicle.
I need to do this to my arrma limitless
Ya it works great!
Great info
Those shims, the inner diameter is 8mm right?
Yes
Nice video did this to all my Arrmas
Nice!!
How do like the Rpm bumper on the rear?
Luv it, I am definitely sold on the importance of placing the best possible bumper you can in the rear.
In fact! There’s a nee king in town. The EXB Basher bumper is now going to be my go to for the rear.
See coconuts video on the how to, for implementing this tactic.
ua-cam.com/video/c7SjkdykIqI/v-deo.html
Great idea! But does it really make a difference for a basher? I hate slop also and im real particular about these things but does it really hurt performance? I really appreciate your tips and wrenching videos brotha! Keep them coming!
It’s not particularly required to do this, in fact most people don’t even really think of it. And typically because we’re not focused on super precision performance, turning etc. All we care about is lining it up to the next jump right LOL.
That said, cleaning up the slop can actually improve durability to a very small degree and prevent the chances of breakages. Typically more your long-term where type of breakages.
At the end of the shock, was it the 0.1 or 0.2mm metal shims that you bought? Or both?
I picked up both and then based on my vehicle determine which one fits best. Slop from factory varys
Shim kits are between 7 and $10 after shipping. So maybe 20 bucks yeah
Oh … right duh😜. Guess your right then.
I think he’ll be fine if you just going with the thicker of the two as far as the other shims go
I had to come back and watch again now we are free from slop 😉😛
Nothing worse than slop in your rc ! Drives me crazy for 700 you would think that the engineers could design a slop-less ride . Had to do the same thing with diff approach. Great video keep rolling I enjoyed watching.
Totally agree, thanks for watching
Great Video! I'm doing this ASAP. Thanks!
Thanks. Great info. What is the green screwdriver and the long bits you were using? Also digging the RC stand with the tray. Is that the Duratrax one?
The green screwdriver, is a simple ratcheting/universal screwdriver that allows for classic quick detach bits to fit into it. I'll see if I can find one and add it into my master link (i did). As far as the Bits them self in the stand, I think I have a new video I created on that. Here's the link
ua-cam.com/video/gov56EolTK0/v-deo.html
Nice video bro just what l needed keep em coming 👌✌
I notice the the front hinge pin carrier is bent in on the front right. More of the pin is exposed. Do you have trim favoring one side now?
Lol... Keen eye my friend! Actually I’ve been meaning to go in and reinstall the stock front bumper, which is actually a mini piece that fits in above the RPM bumper. It’s this front bumper piece that actually holds in those pins from sliding out. It snapped off when I was doing the testing on the shock absorption project with my high powered fans. My first attempt at hitting the jump ended in a hard-core Nose dive on concrete LOL.
Here’s that vid- ua-cam.com/video/z91Px9dArXY/v-deo.html
Anyway I have since ordered the part and I have it here I just need to go in and reattach it. The exposed pin is only out farther because i simply need to push it in. After close inspection of the actual carrier, it’s not bent.
Either way though in the next week or so I’ll be installing some M2C Front hinge pins to upgrade her. I really appreciate you pointing that out, fortunately I knew about it this time however imagine if I was unaware and took her out without those Front hinge pins being locked in place. That could’ve been disastrous. Thanks again for watching my videos.
Happy New Year another awesome video I have learned so much watching your channel I want to say THANK YOU 😂❤️🙏🏽
Thanks! I really appreciate that!
amico se giri in estate si scaldano troppo i cuscinetti.
Wow what a difference & thanks for the video
Just ordered steering buckles for my Mojave 6s Blx
Nice... Excellent upgrade!!!
Nice 👍👍
great video bro. Yeh even my EXB has slop brand new before i ran her i notice that. I didn't know that you get rid of all that slop. Im sure the car will driver better with very little slop right? did you notice a big difference in performance?
Not a ton when moving fast, but you can definitely tell there’s less wobble at slower speeds when she glides by. Also having less slop over the long run is actually going to lend quite a bit of longevity to those parts effected.
And well... There’s something just satisfying about getting rid of it. LOL
@@EastTacticsNice bro. Im definitely gonna do that to both my rigs. Keep up the good work 👊👊👍
Hey bro I posted a new video please check it out whenever you get a chance. My outcast is making some weird noise when I give it throttle. Only foward backward it's normal.
@@paulrakis I posted in your vid. Have a few questions. 👍
Some more great tips! Thanks
The front has more play than a game of dodge ball. At least for the 1/5 Kraton., it’s everywhere…. Mostly the upper
A-arms pivot from front to back and it changes the front wheel caster angle which will affect turning bite bcs the more caster you have, the more the tire leans on its wall and does not keep a 180 degree contact patch on the ground. I thought of washers but it seems like the hole on the A-arm where the hinge pin slips through is too big and the steel pin is thinner so there’s slop 360 degrees. I’d imagine AM parts have lesser tolerance. I noticed the black aluminum steering blocks on your truck, is there anything else you did to illuminate slop at the front?
they have little clip in washers to clean up that slop on the upper A-arms (typically people center the arm on the pin.
Here’s a link
amzn.to/3j75198
Adding this shim on right before the 17mm wheel hex helps
Shims here
amzn.to/3J3914N
But really though for the front, the aluminum knuckles have the most impact.
amzn.to/3uRqGaJ
@@EastTactics TY
@@EastTactics … hey off subject since I got you here, I got the titanium center shafts for the felon and the input cup drive sits crooked once the grub screw is tightened so the shaft wobbles. Not everyone uses the Pinocchio spool and I don’t see ppl complaining about the input cup drive so are mine bad (F&R) and what are ppl using? In most cases I see ppl use the stock ones🤷♂️ but I can’t seem to buy only the input cups in Titanium.
Are you picking up the input cups from scorched parts?
So your center driveshafts are third-party and your front and rear input cups are also third-party? All titanium.
You’re saying that your front and rear input cups are sitting crooked on the spiral input gear, both front and back?
What about your spiral and put gears themselves, are they stock and are they the V5 variant? I know the version five spiral input cups actually have two flat surfaces on the shaft, one is designed for the grub screw and the other is designed for the safeD cup cover screw.
Is it possible that the reason why your input cup is not sitting properly is because you’re trying to flatten the main grub crew on the wrong flat face. Pull it off take a closer look, and make sure that your grub screw is being secured to the larger of the two flat faces on the rod.
Let me know
@@EastTactics .. yes and yes you got it right. I only see one screw on the
cup assembly. The screw mates on the outer most flat side which has a lip on it so the cup can not slide off the shaft. I noticed there is a second hole but there’s no screw. I got my titanium shafts from scorched. I posted a video about them new & having surface defects but the shafts are still perfectly straight minus the finish quality. In stock form both F/R shafts got bend bad and idk htf it happened bcs I haven’t even ran the speed pinion and was still getting used to 6s at the time. Mayyybe the cup situation is a product of that bcs out the box it wasn’t like this and with the titanium shafts it should be even straighter then it was day 1. I am not able to find titanium input drive cups individually on scorched or any place. I do see some shiny steel ones on eBay that have to grub screws on them tho.
For the wheel shim... did you use the .1 or the .2 mm shims? Thanks.
Either will work, but thicker is better, for less slop. So go .2
😎👍
@@EastTactics Awesome! Thanks again! Your videos are making this Arrma adventure so much less stressful.
One more question. If I go with the HR steering blocks, are the shims still necessary?
More then likely it could still use one. Give it a jiggle once installed, if you feel one will fit, go for it.
@@EastTactics Right on brother! Just trying to get good and solid by the time the snow is gone here. Looks like I'll have plenty of time for that! Bash on my friend!
May have to do this on my Notorious, but perhaps upgrades should be done first?
The nice thing about this (particularly for the rear end) is that it’s super cheap. It’s literally just a cost of the shims. And you can sort of just do this along side upgrades as you go. As far as the knuckles, I consider those a break first upgrade later sort of thing. 👍👍😎
@@EastTactics Well I have some upgrades, all aluminum diff cases, the Arrma two piece model, and all have shims external and internal. I'm planning on getting the Vitavon bulkheads, but really hope they aren't just a waste.
I'll be going Vitavon for any upgrades, rather get 7075 for a similar price
Your way will work.. I recommend shims behind the inner bearings to remove the play at the wheels.. you could shim behind the outer bearing but the slop/play that you remove will pull your cvd axle/dogbone that much further from your drive cup..
Interesting, if you think about it though, adding the shim this way, it doesn't move the dog bone in any direction Left or right, it just fills in an existing gap. The metal dowel for instance didn't get impacted, as it wasn't harder for me to wedge the dowel into place. Don't get me wrong, a large enough shim, If it moved the red threaded piece even a tiny degree Outward past the circumference of the little hole. (Making the shim harder to put in) than your appointment would be true, it would slightly shift the dog bone out a hair. However since there was no impact on the dowels insertion the shim simply filled in a gap.
@@EastTactics take the spacer you added out and watch your dogbone as you move your wheel in and out checking the play. You will see that your way, pulls the dog bone that much further from the drive cup at the diff. With a shim behind the inner bearings, that will in deed push that play back into the diff drive cup.. either way is effective though, the play is so minimal..
That makes sense, ya your right. With the shim in it prevents the back and forth movement, while minuscule, it it holds it in the outer position. Placing the shim on the other side (as you mentioned would be ideal. That said, as we both agree, the amount is so small that it doesn’t matter. My apologies you were right tho. 😝👍
Very usefull, thanks !
Are there links below for this kit and the shims ?
Yes, In the description
Good job dude 👍👏
Thanks 😁
Doing the hot racing knuckles but inky seen rears on Amazon . Chassis braces are coming . I ll set the droop at that time too . I couldn’t get 2/3 of them shock caps off but I ll try again with a Vice and ratchet for the top . A crescent and ratchet should have done it but I don’t want to break it , lol . I wonder if an m8 x 10mm will work for the hex shim ? Thanks
That front steering part on the v5 Kraton that hooks to the servo on that plate attached to the knuckles is wobbly on mine . For now I m going to try either some airline tubing or the smallest zip tie or both , for now anyways . Only one tire is wobbly , front right . I did adjust the Marty Feldman front tires like you showed and it worked great but the play is still there . I ll fortune out with the help of these vids and when I actually get into it . I appreciate these cods and will support this channel next paycheck 👍👍. Appreciate ya dude 👏🦅
@Hungrybird474 thanks brother. I appreciate it.
Happy new year mate. I did the same thing long time ago and with some hole punches you can make your own what ever size or thickness. A cheap set of hole punches cost $10 max.
How is this process done mate, that's a good idea
@@neurofunk2731 hi mate just get some plastic from anything icecream container just punch 1 hole 10mm and then punch another 4mm hole and done mate
Aw yeah that's a good idea mate, thanks for replying 👍
Is there a link to the kit. Great vid
Yes, There's one in the description, although I did go in and edit it to make the simpler approach.
@@EastTactics Many thanks and again great vid!
Other videos say to add shims, they show you their steering knuckle, then never show what a shim actually is or how to install them.
So thank you, you rock.
Your videos are awesome, thanks. Quick question are kraton 6s front hubs same or work on either side. I know one side has little tab but I just cut it off and it went on fine. Just didnt know if geometry is slightly different. Thanks
I believe that the stock composite hubs at least the part that is plastic is a universal Or symmetric peace, However the wing attachment itself (where the turnbuckle attaches) is placed on a different side depending on which side of the vehicle the hub is attached.
If you pick up the aluminum hot racing hubs, they come marked with an L an R.