Engine rebuild FAIL - Briggs & Stratton 2hp 60102 cylinder damage
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2020
- I show you the unfortunate outcome of my attempts at rebuilding a Briggs & Stratton 60102 2hp, owing to an oversight on my part leading to contamination getting hidden in the cleaning process.
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Liking the videos. Very down to earth and easy to relate to ! When I started collecting stuff briggs were considered junk now people like us are preserving them where we can and I'm a big fan of these little engines. Lots still about tho so should be able to source a cheap cylinder if u need one still
Thanks very much for the kind words. Yeah I really like this little Briggs engine. I actually ran it today so that my 2 year old son could see it. I've given it to him to play with when he's older but I'll fix it up so that it's working properly.
When we got our Lister D for Belturbet Men's Shed the man threw in a 2 HP Briggs so that will be another project for us if this virus ever ends. I used to have one myself on a mixer,the stopper was a little metal spring loaded clip that used to earth the plug. It wasn't long before that was broken so we used to stop it with the shovel. It was great to see the guys who held the metal part of the shovel when they tried to stop it.
Haha you only make that mistake once! Do you still have the 2hp? It's a lovely little engine and I do want to get it working right.
Actually would you mind asking a few of the lads in your men's shed to subscribe to my channel please?
@@Endfloat I
I will try definitely. But I am having a hard time explaining the value of the information available on Tube. I have a plan at the moment to get a monitor and a Chrome Cast so I will be able to show them videos from my phone, one of our members is ex RAF , served his time on Harriers.
If you'd like, I can do a zoom call with a few of them some time, if you thought there might be any value in it? I can tell them about my projects and my day job (overhauling APUs) and extoll the virtues of UA-cam!
@@Endfloat That is very kind of you Ross, we will have to leave it for a while as we are officially closed at the moment. I am in the middle of trying to get my 02 scooter fixed. I think I will have to replace the stator. It's a new experience for me.
Hard luck .. although it's the challenge that keeps you coming back. You mix that intro? Perfect fit for the channel.
Thanks David! Yeah as I said if it was easy everybody would be doing it! 😉 I did the sound mix for the intro but I got the animation done by a lad on fiverr. Glad you like it!
Hone it and new piston rings usually do the trick. Rebuilt a 3,5 hp last summer. It was not looking pretty in the cylinder. Just honed it and new piston rings did the job. Does not smoke. Tip - hone in low rpm, not fast. And before assembly, always wash everything, block piston etc in soap and hot water. Specially after honing and laping valves. If you get tired of the engine, i am willing to purchase, always good as parts. 👍cheers from Sweden.
Thanks very much. I will try a bit more honing but I do think I need to fill the score mark. I've a couple of ideas which I'll try, but I'll take your advice on the honing too, and I will certainly be more careful cleaning this time! I'll make another video with an update on this one.
@@Endfloat - any questions along the way, just send me a message. And lubricate during honing, wd40 or similar. Best of luck and any doubts, i support you. Cheers!
Thanks. I really appreciate that.
@@Endfloat No problem. Forgot to mention - These engines normally likes to have 2 gaskets in the inlet to seal well. I putted 2 on mine. And starting point for carb - maximum 1,5 turns out, no more :) Cheers!
I hope it works-out well.
Where did you get that nice socket tool for removing the starter clutch?
I agree with the use of a ball-type hone, but that gouge seems a bit too deep.
I bought the tool from briggsbits in the UK, which is where I got a lot of my other parts for it too. I'm going to have at this engine again in the not too distant future. I'd like to see it running again.
Do not have the same issue but taking apart The carburetor is easier than putting it back together this has helped in the beginning of vid. cool to see someone with a similar McLane Fresno,ca usa
Take the bolt loose that mounts the governor vane to the coil, mount the linkage, and reinstall.
Viola.
Something got in that engine that shouldnt have. I can't imagine what. Possibly a piece of carbon fell off of the head that wasn't completely removed
You sed “viola”.
Ha. I think it’s VOILA!
Great video. Thank you.
Where did you get the replacement decals?
Engine-decals.com. There are lots of people selling vintage engine decals though if you stick it into Google.
@@Endfloat I will research further. Thank you.
Did you install new rings. Did you check end gap?
No but I will be doing that when I come back to this in the future. I shelved it for the moment.
Love the new intro
Glad you noticed! 😁
Murphys law in action buddy.With that being said love the video's
Sorry bro that’s just a terribly bad casted block in general. Did you try to test the alloy content by using a razor blade to shave a piece off the engine in different places before you even tried to start the rebuild ? A bad block will just shave like butter. I’ve seen it many times. A good block will make the razor blade skip and take chips out where you are testing.
Thanks for this info. Eventually I'll get back to rebuilding this engine. I've shelved it for the moment but when I do get back to it I'll try what you're saying.
I always thought that B&S engines only required 30w oil. 20-50 seems to be a little heavy.
It's what I had to hand and for the amount of time i would have been using this engine my thinking was it was absolutely fine. It's not far off the weight of straight 30.
Preferred that's right SAE 30 but if it's not available depending on the temperature 10:30 or 10:40 synthetic. The great thing about synthetic oil is it doesn't succumb to fuel delusion like regular petroleum base oil hence it doesn't lose its viscosity there you go.
Yes, 30 weight is what was called-out, or 10W30 in colder weather.
I have a working Briggs and stratton 3 HP engine. Oh man! I feel terrible for all the work you have done to that engine. All that work has gone down the drain. I will give to you for free. Wherever the engine came out from. I believe it is on the same mount. Carburetor and gas tank are attached to the engine. Let me know! I am in Southern California.
Thank you so much. I am in Ireland though so the postage cost would be prohibitively expensive. I really do appreciate your generosity though.
@@Endfloat never pass up a FREE engine bro!
I'm s no big deal.. The key to honing the cylinder used to go at a slow RPM up and down being careful not to have it pop out of the cylinder and more frequently use some diesel fuel or kerosene to clean off and lubricate to some degree. If you can get that good cross hatch pattern may be able to get away with those gouges. It's about the simplest engine you're ever going to work on. I refilled one from 1972 all I did was clean the combustion chamber and the exhaust and intake ports and relap the valves. If need be if I have to go back in and hone the cylinder and of course put new rings on it then I will but checking the compression really determine that. The only thing I would put in the ultrasonic cleaner would be carburetors that are so gummed up it would be their only hope for rebuilding. Of course depending on the metal that they use sometimes they can get chalky. That's why you should only leave it in for maybe an hour or two and then check it the same with using like purple power and other degreasers. The person is so can be splashed down with diesel or kerosene then wiped off thoroughly the top of the piston you can work that carbon off with a carbon scraper being careful not to damage anything. Something that I haven't seen indicated anywhere else except for the old maintenance manuals is that every 100 hours you need to pull a head off and clean the combustion chamber from carbon build up. On your engine and might as well the crankcase ventilation comes off the valve cover and vents to atmosphere. I created an oil catch can that will allow adequate air flow and at the same time collect any oil vapor that would be blowing down the side of the engine. Just remember it's not the space shuttle cleaner up thoroughly take your time let me know if you have any questions..Paul
Wow, thank you for all the information! I think this may well be the longest comment I've ever gotten on youtube, and I will take your advice on board when I get stuck back into this engine in the future. I do appreciate your offer of help too.
Wow, I feel your disappointment nothing worse when you know you did everything as it should be and this still happens. Is an overbore possible on them? As my granny used to say “well it’s saved you from a bigger disaster”. Hope you get it sorted easily👍
Ah I will fix it. It's just a matter of putting more time into it and being more careful. I think there might have been some contamination stuck in a couple of the holes in the piston behind the oil control ring. I think they can be overbored but I won't be doing that. I've heard several people say they repaired bore scoring with chemical metal so I've ordered some JB weld. We'll see!
its game over, brigs are known for alloy bores COATED in a SPECIAL LAYER
it means you CONNOT hone the bore, to rebuild you got to spend thousands to re coat the alloy bore
or to sleeve it with a steel bore
I'm keeping my eye out for a replacement case for it. I would still like to get it working.
@@Endfloat it will run but it will slowly wear the bore and you will find alloy shavings in the oil
i found out the hard way too haha
i had a old 2.5hp on a very old reel mower
it did how ever last a while with new rings and a hone
briggs kept the same rough design for a extremity long time so there are a lot of parts around
My local shop sleeves anything for 100 bucks. As long as it’s one cylinder and around this size.
I have two 2hp. One is steel sleeved. It’s at a stock piston size. The other one is bored over with a bigger piston and no silicone whatever alloy layer. I run it just as hard as the steel sleeve and I’ve never seen shavings yet. Both have no governors either. I probably have a few hundred hours on both. I use them to pump water up to my house. So many parts available that’s why I never upgrade.
@@genmaxpain no that’s because you got a bad casted engine. These blocks were casted terribly. The content of alloy from one block to the next varies tremendously. You just have to get lucky. I have had a 3.5hp that would always just want to eat itself from the inside out. Got a 3hp same year bored it over and it still runs to this day. That was ten years ago I rebuilt it.
Se ve que sabes algo pero te falta experiencia
That is accurate. I've practically no experience on these engines so I wanted to learn a bit, which is why I bought it. Thanks for watching.
@@Endfloat pero tranquilo sigue así que vas bien, poco a poco ganarás experiencia
Put one of those Blue Viagra pills in the gas tank mate
What's that supposed to do??
Wrong stickers cheapest shit you can buy
They're the same as what was on it. It's not a Rolls Royce restoration mate!