JB Weld scored cylinder repair PART 1
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- I try to repair the badly scored cylinder on my Briggs and Stratton 60102 2hp engine. WIll this work? Join me to find out!
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Thanks!
Machinist here, If the hone isn't "biting" often the surface is clogged with little bits of metal, and since they are the same hardness as the cylinder, it's hard to get any cutting done. Try using some cutting fluid, motor oil, kerosene, atf, basically anything will help keep the hone stones from glazing up. Though when doing JB weld on a cylinder, or to fix a groove worn in a shaft so a seal will ride on it smoothly again, I like to do one last step: to burnish or strop the JB weld surface, it gives it a glass like shine, and it is so much smoother than just the honed JB weld, that with gaskets on a shaft, they last just as long as if no repair was done. Get some thin leather, and wrap around the stones, rough side out towards the cylinder wall, and spin away. Be sure to clean thoroughly between honing and burnishing with the leather. Otherwise leather will pick up little bits of hone powder and keep honing instead of burnishing. I have done this on commercial vessels that kept detailed repair logs, so a little more scientific than just, let's try this and see if she holds another season, hah. I don't have logs for cylinder wall JB weld repairs, but with the greater heat of engine cylinder, and metal ring on metal cylinder wall instead of rubber seal on metal prop shaft, it's got to make an even bigger difference. (I know technically the piston rings ride on a film of oil, not the cylinder wall, but that's if everything goes right, we are talking about repairing cylinders with glue, things have gone terribly wrong already, lol. And at startup cyl walls are often dry.)
This definitely works, fixed jeep 4.0 cylinder with 4 scoring marks about an inch long >
Oh brilliant! That's good to know. Thanks. I might spend more time on getting it right with this method then so. I do think I need new rings as well though, which should help my compression a lot.
@@Endfloat I cleaned with acetone right before to degrease and applied a really thin layer let it set and honed it checked if it filled enough applied it this way 4 times till it was even don't apply too thick or on the cylinder walls because it won't be easy removing it afterwards good luck
I changed all the pistons and rings also just for good measure plus I had the engine all stripped down
You're a star, thanks! With this info I feel a bit more confident in tackling it again.
Did you have piston slap before you fixed it?
@@blumkinpie yes that caused the piston skirt to crack and break the piston apart there was no piston left it "shattered" the piston apart and the piston rod scored the cylinder wall I'm surprised it runs as well as it does taking into account my limited knowledge of engine mechanic
Here in South Africa we have Pratley steel almost similar to JB weld but not as strong though I have used it to fix aluminium sumps for a couple of times it held for sometime but then after a few months it starts leaking only because I never realky did it the proper way from cleaning and application mostly were rush fixes the one I did nicely 2 years ago cleaned the surfaces applied the pratley nicely and sanded it down smoothly still holding up till now
Pratley steel is actually just as strong if not stronger.
My wife would kill me for using the dishwasher. Great job. I am looking at similar damage in a Toro mower that I am trying to refurbish.
There are video of people fixing cracked engine blockheads with job weld and I fixed a cracked oil pan and there was no leak whatsoever it was amazing. JB welds a miracle
These old stationary are fantastically simple.
I hope it runs ok after all that work.
I used to be the dismayed owner of a c1932 single cylinder 8hp Armstrong Sidley petrol engine. I bought it attached to the cast iron bench saw I used for cutting logs.
I finally got the engine running using a 6 volt motorcycle coil and a lawnmower spark plug. Funny old world.
Then I swapped the engine for a more modern Lister Petter single cylinder diesel engine which powered the saw bench until the day it was sold.
.
JB weld, the greatest fixer of everything in America.
I have yet to see it sold in Europe. It really does need to get here.
P.S. I think I figured out the VWT3 brake light/ECU relay without phoning Tim.
I'm going to have a crack at putting the engine back together again this evening, or at least making a start on it. Fingers crossed! As for the brake light relay, I'm glad you have it sorted and sorry I couldn't be more help but I made a promise to someone who helped me a lot.
DEXRON III ATF fluid is an excellent penatrating oil mate, it will seap in and remove surface rust aswell as prevent further corrosion while rebuilding. Love the dishwasher idea doubt me wife would let me throw my v6 engine in when i do, as they say its easier to ask for forgiveness than permission! 😂 greetings from West Australia. On to part 2
I've heard of people mixing ATF with acetone to make their own penetrating oil, and by all accounts it works really well. And say hello to WA for me! I've plenty of family over there and lived in Perth myself many moons ago.
1 year later. How’s it holding?
Its looking good! Great that you cleaned it well, get all that laping compound etc gone. Else valves and piston will lap is self to death :) Looking forward to the next episode, if any questions, let me know. Cheers!
Thanks! I will hopefully have it back together in a couple of days so fingers crossed it goes a bit better this time!
I hate to tell you this at this point, I know this is a pretty old video, but I've NEVER seen anybody run a hone like that dry. You're supposed to use some kind of light oil. Everybody has their favorite. Something like WD40 or I use Diesel fuel or Kerosene. I guess you call it paraffin. Point is you need some lube and it needs to spin faster. The lube keeps the stone from cutting too much and flushes away the metal particles. To repair those scores I would use some aluminum welding rod either tig or some of those specialty rods that have a low melting point with a regular torch. Normally the standard size rings in most engines will take up .010". Not sure what the piston and ring offerings were for these engines as far as oversize. I would think they offered at least one oversize, but then again they were cheap engines and maybe you just had to buy a new cylinder block. I hope it worked out for you. I tried once out of desperation to use JB on a cast iron cylinder block deck. Didn't work out so well. Had a problem with a divot area in one of the cylinders in the fire ring sealing area. Ended up used a heavy chunk of steel and emory cloth to plane the deck surface with the engine in the car. It worked. Real Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble stuff. BTW, I wouldn't put raw gas into the cylinder to prime it. Use 2-cycle oil/gas mix or give it a whiff of ether. That can score the cylinder quick, especially aluminum.
I used this engine as a learning opportunity. I know I did a lot of things wrong, but at least the mistakes weren't too costly. I should have read about honing before going at it though. Thanks for all your advice!
@@Endfloat No problem! I did the same thing, learning by just doing it. Normally most engines need a crosshatch 30-45 degrees depending on the engine The purpose of the crosshatch is to hold oil on the cylinder wall and promote ring rotation for break in. Typically, one of those engines will have between 110-120 psi of compression once the rings seal.
I scraped a wall while doing piston rings. What can I expect if I continue the build without honing
should you put some oil on cylinder wall during honing or not ?
You should, yes. I was just being a div when I didn't do that.
Wont the jb weld break off inside from high heat and friction and vibration, to many hot and cold heat cycles?
Quite possibly, but I had to try something, and failing any other options, this was what I came up with. I doubt it'll last to tell the truth, but unless the piston goes to pieces (and I really hope it doesn't), I'll never know.
Looking forward to see this back together.. petrol heads cliffhanger.
The suspense is killing me, whatever about anybody else!
Looking good 🤘
Thanks! Hopefully it runs better this time and doesn't mulch itself.
You think that would 🤔 work on a 250 rm Suzuki dirt bike?
I don't even know if it worked in this engine!
I'm going give it my best effort I think I'm golden PonyBoy! # TheRealMcCoy
Did it work?
Worth watching for the irish accent
Go raibh mile maith agat! 😁👍 (Means thank you very much in Irish)
I'm assuming you have NEVER honed an engine you just as well take that engine and have bored and honed by a machine shop
No I haven't. It's why I took on this project - to learn how to do this sort of stuff. I'm aware I made a mess of it.
Well you have to try to see if it works
Absolutely. The alternative was to try and source a new case!
you can´t hone nikasil cylinder , wiht stone
Yeah it was just a bit of an experiment.
That's not a Nikasil cylinder, ya wee numpty.
Too noisy at the beginning of video
Thank you for the feedback. My sound is something I've improved on in recent videos.
I can't watch this any longer
then DON'T smartass. You're the guy that runs to a machine shop- this guy is doing what he can do with what he has available... like we did years ago. STFU and go help your wife fold laundry.