100% like to see a series on mods and the affect they have. I’m working towards a specific power / weight ratio and this would be perfect to help me get there 👍
Would definitely love to see a build series as I have 3 4agze and a small port in the shed for tinkering purposes. Loved the old billzilla website and spent hours reading it over and over as a teen so to see something similar but with vid and dyno runs would be great imo.
Your channel is one of my favourites I am a big fan of Matt Happels channel also and it’s great to see a kiwi doing testing and putting in the work as you are I wish I had the video and editing skills to attempt something similar, a 4age series would be real cool bro.
I’d love you guys to do a 4agze (still factory supercharged) dyno comparison on modifications. The amount of strong opinions online on what modifications do what without any sort of factual dyno information is full on. I know they’re not a powerhouse, but they still have a following, and they’re definitely a engine that needs modification mythbusting!
Top notch kiwi ingenuity! If you can get your hands on a stock small port head and stock headers it would be interesting to see a baseline power figure. Then start adding your good parts one by one.
Funny how i'm in the process of reattaching the bigport parts as well and fitting it into my KP. Now i'm thinking if i should go small port head too... Damn you got some nice healthy horsepower there!
I should have tracked down a stock smallport head for it. it makes more power than my blacktop 20v! If i can find a stock head for cheap, maybe even bigport might swap it over. was trying to start at the bottom, must be the gold paint
Awesome as always. Any chance of filtering the raw signal on the dyno traces and cleaning up the axis (axeees) to make small changes more notable as well as getting a neater peak reading? My one gripe..... 🤔 Just be careful, one day you might find a set of forgies, covered in blood in your bed from "big piston". That company has had it good for too long.....
Cant apply any smoothing onto the raw graph. x axis being squished up makes it look worse than it is. Its just there for visual aid. the full screen graphs are the same thing, they dont have a huge amount of smoothing on them, just enough to take the bumps out. I may look into running a little mechanical damping on the load cell at some stage, see if it has any effect.
Actually keen to get a stock head on this engine, see what the difference is . the one on it already has some port and chamber work. hence why its throwing out decent numbers.
Garage 4age that’s good. Then we could find out what effect ported vs stock head has with bigger cams. Could you share at some point what’s done to the head? Love your show.
I've just stumbled across your channel and this is great! Subbed! Is that just a standard MLS head gasket or did you use thinner to up the comp? Only ARP head studs?
Its just a stock toyota gasket not mls. I built the engine cheap as possible. Only new parts in the engine are bearings and the arp head studs. even the rings are 2nd hand. I used the arp studs as head will likely come off the engine a few times. I use thinner mls gaskets on my good engines.
@@Garage4age haha wow with the power level I thought maybe you used like 0.8mm TRD or something. Like you say all about those bolt-ons hey! I've run out of cash this week but I'll be happy to purchase some merch next week if it helps you make more of this great content.
Yes love it do series. Hey what about 20v stuff, u know we all think we know what we r talking about but do we really. My blacktop still has a hesitation at times and jerky on off throttle. Any thoughts.? Be interested to see where u go with the big port block small port head engine mods.
Blacktops can be horrible things to get to run nice. they seem to rely on the o2 sensor quite heavily. will run rich at low load if the sensor isn't working right. next thing to check is all throttles and isc arent gummed up. then check the throttles shut and open evenly, once they get a few k's on them the adjusters wear and get play, so the inner throttles will start opening before the outers. The cas can start to give issues with few k's on them also. I got annoyed with mine and put and aftermarket ecu in it. just in process of developing a hidden trigger / cas setup. since stock ones can give issues and don't give a very clean signal. may do a few vids with it once get dyno setup better. is a pain to load fwd atm.
just a dingleberry. If was going to build a nice engine, block really would have needed a .5 oversize. as had a few marks in the bores. so was either throw money at it, or build cheap as possible. It even has 2nd hand rings.
I would love to see the kind of power figures you can make with a set of Weber carbs, high compression and some massive cams Can’t wait to see what direction this engine ends up going
carbs are some kinda wizardry to me. and are actually pretty expensive. so will likely stick with efi. have a couple different inlet setups, single throttle and itb that will go on it soon.
Haven't done much with 3s stuff. but know a few people that have. pretty much same deal with any engine though, all about getting the combo of parts to work together
head is modified as stated in video. plus has good headers and exhaust. also has minimal acessories and 3.7kg flywheel. so will show a touch more on dyno due to less inertia. I dont think there would be that much driveline loss. maybe 160 crank at the most. which is around blacktop 4age power
@@Garage4age yes, the head work, header and exhaust. But oem cams? And only with this mods, your engine has the same power as a blacktop? I have a smallport ae92 and my car have only a complete 2,5inch exhaust with stock header. He makes 100hp at the wheels and 128hp at the crank. You makes 40hp at the wheels more with stock cams, only header, ecu and head work. Thats very much i think.
@@silversups88 I didn't think it would make this much power either. but if run the numbers its about right, my blacktop 20v in my daily driver (fwd) made 137hp on this dyno. it has a small amount of work done to inlet ports and chambers, aftermarket ecu, decat pipe. otherwise stock. both engines are using just over 200cc worth of fuel which also backs up the numbers. the smallport has more midrange also
@@Garage4age ok that's awesome. Please make a test with a stock head also. You live my dream. I want also a dyno in my garage 😁 I would test everything every day. So i love your videos.
@@silversups88 I have a stock bigport head here that im probably going to put on it. unless i can find a stock smallport head. they are getting harder to find for a good price.
I have a few questions if you don't mind. 1. Are you using a standard size head gasket? 2. The head drain; is this just routed to the pan as the big port block doesn't have the drain? 3. Are you a massive proponent to ARP head studs instead of bolts? (doesn't this really make a difference if I don't plan on opening my motor again) 4. Head and Block been shaved/decked? 5. Standard injectors? 6. Opinion on bigport cams in a smallport head? Cheers.
stock gasket drains into sump yeh. i always use arp head studs, mostly because can reuse them. not really necessary on a na engine, but would always use them on a turbo setup that makes a bit of power head has only had a light skim in the past for straightness. has caldina gtt 540cc becuse thats what had hanging around. using about 200cc worth at this power havent tried bigport cams, but would like to. since age old question. i would think the difference in power would be pretty small.
@@Garage4age awesome, thanks for the info. As for your exhaust its just the one that was on the 150kw motor? Do you mind me asking the setup? Diameter of exhaust, are you running a resonator etc.
yeah everything on the exhaust side is the same. after the collector its 3" with 2 reso's then a big glass pack/ mulitpass combo at rear. with internal diameters of at least 3" to keep flow up. cant hear exhaust over intake, well on the itb's at least.
I live in los angeles California USA. I know nothing about tuning. I have a 1988 sc mr2 4agze. I want to build me a 7agte. What fo you recommend I need to get it done on the cheap 350whp? Thanks
Personally I would stick with the 4a. turbo the engine that's in there if is in ok condition. maybe aim a touch lower on the hp and will be reliable with good ecu and tune. just swapping from supercharger to turbo really wakes them up. then if its not fast enough build another engine. good thing about the 4a's is they are strong from factory. 7a you will need to do rods and the likes. and they have a 6 bolt flywheel, rather than 8 like 4a. so cant use your bigger 4agze clutch. spend the money on a nice turbo setup instead.
iv noticed that some arp head studs say to torque the studs and some dont .. im that guy where i guy torque the studs doesnt have to be over the top this finger tight.. then there could be knock off arp gear to
from memory these ones just say do up finger tight. ive put so many in i dont read the box anymore haha. I just straight edge them to make sure they all at the bottom/same height.
@@Garage4age yeh i saw a video on a guys evo where arp said finger tight and they cam loose .. then when u look up arp site said to torque them .. are there old stock or china knock offs.. its probably only gonna be line 18nm with plus 60d or something.. but yeh just gives me hibby givvy . Everything has torque spec.. oem level. If it makes a difference is trial and error .. fuck havent torque a wheel nut in like 6 years
just sent it. well I measured up the the crank and its still in spec for standard bearings. bores not so much. as has a few marks in it which would need a .5 overbore it fix. so it got a dingleberry hone and some 2nd hand rings.
Mate whats your exhaust setup diameter from headers??? do you have any cats and what about inlet diamater of your rear box single pipe or dual? Just asking cuz installed oem rear muffler on my old 1.8 16v nissan and i can feel that my power has decreased a bit before have had just straight through muffler with 46mm inlet same on current oem muffler ...
3" after collector. oversized for this engine but doesn't hurt power like some people think. 2 reso's and custom twin 2.5 exit muffler at rear. if you want to keep noise down but flow up use a normal style muffler not a straight through, but go up a couple of pipe sizes over your exhaust size.
@@Garage4age hard to find compact sized muffler with good muffling capacity, 80s hatches aint big cars 😂, would you do and muffler/exhaust setups dynos to show differences like 2" vs 2.5 or straight pipe vs oem
yeh standard smallport cams in this one. makes more power than it should from the head work and exhaust boltons. 150kw engine has 300deg cams and about 13:1 compression
Hello what is the cylinder capacity please 1300 cc or 1600 cc of the test engine when you test the trompets size and cam timing and exhaust in the videos ? thank s
@@Garage4age thanks s a lot mister ,i was for 15 Years mechanical technicien on test bench for formula one engines ans i want toi Say that y are doing excepional work
At the wheels? this engine is actually doing pretty good for almost stock engine, they are only rated to make 134hp at engine factory. and these are wheel numbers
@@Garage4age Yes, on wheels. And that 1,3 is from Skoda 120. It is rated to from 34-46kW. With these carbs and sharper cam, it is doing over 140hp (at around 7-8k RPM)
@@Garage4age yeah, i saw them all, i am your big fan :) Check out these czech engines, they have been racing in that 120-145hp spec since 70s. 130LR even beaten 037, Quattro and others in Group B :)
err im sorry but im not a believer ... maybe you should try this on a dynopac dyno to see if your dyno is way off. .... My 4agze (with SC and more boost) made less than this at the wheels. But maybe it gets there cos of the after market computer and headers and exhaust...and emissions stuff ... Honestly doing a video to see if removing the emissions stuff actually makes a HP difference would be interesting.
Well i thought it would make less also. But as for dyno being wrong. My daily blacktop 20v, which are rated to make similar peak power as 4agze, made 103kw (138hp) in fwd configuration, so in theory less drive line loss. 20v also has a little headwork, aftermarket ecu, so on the high end of what they should make stock. If run the fuel injector numbers on engine in this vid, its using just over 200cc at 12.8afr which also backs up the numbers. remember the head is not stock and is running exhaust bolt ons from the 150kw engine which has had plenty of development time . plus if you look at the graph it holds peak almost to 8000rpm. they usually die before then. I was actually hoping it would make less, then was going to use 20v parts, (itb's and the likes) to try beat the 20v numbers. but hey its already done it. need a stock head and crappy headers
@@Garage4age im going to sound old now... my most loved car was the AE101 4agze.. and i used to be rather involved in the toyota club back then (20 years and a bit ago) We used to take them down Meremere Dragway. the 20v's from the AE101 and AE111 were most interesting because the fastest ones were the most stock ones with the least mods... IT really hacked off some of the guys who spent a lot of money on their cars... LOL Back to the dyno i guess im a little disappointed cos i just assumed you'd start with a stock car then work your way though it but instead you started where most people would have ended and.... heck 120KW at the wheels would make me scream for joy in a NA 1600..... Mightcarmods 1800 trubo Yaris made 150 then died a few days later.. and you managed 140!............. I have a 1600 Swift now.. and im missing the power of the 90's 1600 toyota's...... Im intending to electric turbo it... but that's going to cost about 4K. but will be interesting (Im already in the process).
Yeah one of the ideas for this engine, (not the main one thats still top secret) was to step back from the 150kw engine, as is pretty close to end of development. Start at the bottom or close to it. but using the modified head and fancy exhaust side didn't work out so good for that.. smallport heads are getting harder to find and go for good money, which i dont have a lot of to spend on this, but if something comes up will swap a stock one on, and maybe some crappy cobys, because thats where most people start. Ive been playing with these engines for over 10 years, so hard to compare to mcm stuff where they've just wacked a turbo on a wrecker engine. The starlet has done a 13.5 @ 103mph at meremere back when it had probably around 140kw. electric turbo sounds interesting.
I cooked the stock cas on my hilux for the same reason. been running the same hall sensors on it for years now after that happening. gives way cleaner signal stock, so timing etc is a lot more accurate. just trying to come up with a more easy to install setup, that doesn't look horrible
@@Garage4age I am currently working on somthing similar and I will be posting up some videos to my Facebook page tomorow on it of you wanna check it out for some Inspiration MT performance engines is my page, love the videos bro keep them coming
TRS Garage : email me and reply to this if you want claim you sticker garage4age@gmail.com
Yo bro you do great job👍👍
Definitely do the series
The fact that you consistently combine automotive content with actual scientific measurement is why I watch. Keep up the good work.
100% mate, would love to see that series
love your vids man. I would be very very interested in more vids of this motor with build/mod guides.
I'd love to watch the series, especially if it had enough detail for a noob to have a go. Great channel!
100% like to see a series on mods and the affect they have. I’m working towards a specific power / weight ratio and this would be perfect to help me get there 👍
Series would be awesome... Also "golden turd"... Gotta be on some merch for sure
Would definitely love to see a build series as I have 3 4agze and a small port in the shed for tinkering purposes.
Loved the old billzilla website and spent hours reading it over and over as a teen so to see something similar but with vid and dyno runs would be great imo.
Series would be epic. Dyno is so useful
Your channel is one of my favourites I am a big fan of Matt Happels channel also and it’s great to see a kiwi doing testing and putting in the work as you are I wish I had the video and editing skills to attempt something similar, a 4age series would be real cool bro.
I’d love you guys to do a 4agze (still factory supercharged) dyno comparison on modifications. The amount of strong opinions online on what modifications do what without any sort of factual dyno information is full on.
I know they’re not a powerhouse, but they still have a following, and they’re definitely a engine that needs modification mythbusting!
Love the build series idea I'm rebuilding a big port for my ae86 with 11:1 pistons, poncams and blacktop itbs
nice, i might swap a bigport head onto this block for some testing. have a couple here
Top notch kiwi ingenuity! If you can get your hands on a stock small port head and stock headers it would be interesting to see a baseline power figure. Then start adding your good parts one by one.
yeah they are getting harder to find, especially at a good price. will do if can find one though. might have to resort to bigport
I'd definitely like to see more content, Im currently battling with my own 4age build and more info would be great.
what head are you using? Ive been thinking about trying to get even closer to stock numbers on this engine, before building it up.
100% for the series. Love you channel man! 👋🇮🇪
Funny how i'm in the process of reattaching the bigport parts as well and fitting it into my KP. Now i'm thinking if i should go small port head too... Damn you got some nice healthy horsepower there!
I should have tracked down a stock smallport head for it. it makes more power than my blacktop 20v! If i can find a stock head for cheap, maybe even bigport might swap it over. was trying to start at the bottom, must be the gold paint
Please do the series. Maybe even a big bang like Richard Holdener?
will probably stay na, in this chassis. drive line isn't up to big power. but may end up in something else in the future if it survives!
hell yeah mate, do a cheap mod series, maybe even a dirt cheap turbo like a td04 would wake that thing up
Love those headers 💯
Do the series please!
do the series plz !!!!!!
I have subscribed.... Cos I want to see the series. 👍
The series would be cool do it
whooow whoow the gold turd isnt a turd more of a majestic unicorn of out of the box hp its quiet impressive i didnt get my 147 hp and 400nm's
Adhuatable cam gears?
U got light weight balancer and pulley that will get it 150
Awesome as always. Any chance of filtering the raw signal on the dyno traces and cleaning up the axis (axeees) to make small changes more notable as well as getting a neater peak reading? My one gripe..... 🤔 Just be careful, one day you might find a set of forgies, covered in blood in your bed from "big piston". That company has had it good for too long.....
Cant apply any smoothing onto the raw graph. x axis being squished up makes it look worse than it is. Its just there for visual aid. the full screen graphs are the same thing, they dont have a huge amount of smoothing on them, just enough to take the bumps out. I may look into running a little mechanical damping on the load cell at some stage, see if it has any effect.
I’d love to see what can be gained with porting. With stock cams, probably not much, but would be interesting for sure.
Actually keen to get a stock head on this engine, see what the difference is . the one on it already has some port and chamber work. hence why its throwing out decent numbers.
Garage 4age that’s good. Then we could find out what effect ported vs stock head has with bigger cams. Could you share at some point what’s done to the head?
Love your show.
Yooo, nailed it! Jokes aside, that's some respectable power, would love see how much shots of nitrous can take the little engine that could
Is this your own Dyno, if so sic, bro...you know your 4age well buddy...Barry be interested to see your channel...haha
Please go into why and how these things make such good power...bmw m42 guy would like to learn something ;)
I have a similar setup with itbs, 272 cams and head work. The engine made 152 to the wheels and 118 torque. Great videos!
well if you wann build a race engine you have to do more than that
Nah, just reliable and fun.
I've just stumbled across your channel and this is great! Subbed!
Is that just a standard MLS head gasket or did you use thinner to up the comp?
Only ARP head studs?
Its just a stock toyota gasket not mls. I built the engine cheap as possible. Only new parts in the engine are bearings and the arp head studs. even the rings are 2nd hand. I used the arp studs as head will likely come off the engine a few times. I use thinner mls gaskets on my good engines.
@@Garage4age haha wow with the power level I thought maybe you used like 0.8mm TRD or something.
Like you say all about those bolt-ons hey!
I've run out of cash this week but I'll be happy to purchase some merch next week if it helps you make more of this great content.
That impressive bro,love to get a hand on your map base, hahaha
Yes a series!!
Or A series?
Would 100 percent be keen for a series like that!
Yes love it do series. Hey what about 20v stuff, u know we all think we know what we r talking about but do we really. My blacktop still has a hesitation at times and jerky on off throttle. Any thoughts.? Be interested to see where u go with the big port block small port head engine mods.
Blacktops can be horrible things to get to run nice. they seem to rely on the o2 sensor quite heavily. will run rich at low load if the sensor isn't working right. next thing to check is all throttles and isc arent gummed up. then check the throttles shut and open evenly, once they get a few k's on them the adjusters wear and get play, so the inner throttles will start opening before the outers. The cas can start to give issues with few k's on them also. I got annoyed with mine and put and aftermarket ecu in it. just in process of developing a hidden trigger / cas setup. since stock ones can give issues and don't give a very clean signal. may do a few vids with it once get dyno setup better. is a pain to load fwd atm.
I'd love to see a build/mod series.
Any machining work done at all or just a clean and dingleberry hone?
just a dingleberry. If was going to build a nice engine, block really would have needed a .5 oversize. as had a few marks in the bores. so was either throw money at it, or build cheap as possible. It even has 2nd hand rings.
I would love to see the kind of power figures you can make with a set of Weber carbs, high compression and some massive cams
Can’t wait to see what direction this engine ends up going
carbs are some kinda wizardry to me. and are actually pretty expensive. so will likely stick with efi. have a couple different inlet setups, single throttle and itb that will go on it soon.
See if you can spool a city bus turbo with the big baller gold engine
Wow just like a morris Gold seal factory rebuilt engine! When should i drop off the lime green and gold pearl Morris A series for your new series?
sure, here are my gps coordinates: 11.3733° N, 142.5917° E
How did you get cam timing as the dizzy is deleted, I know you are on a stand alone but there is no cam sensor stock so how does the ecu know?
Awesome content mate. Have you ever dabbled with other motors like 3sge/vvti?
Haven't done much with 3s stuff. but know a few people that have. pretty much same deal with any engine though, all about getting the combo of parts to work together
Como haces para que te funcione sin el sensor vaf, saludos desde el Salvador, yo tengo un fx con uno de esos 4age
I have a 5.5AGZE (I just say 5AGZE to keep it simple) in my SC MR2. A 5AGE with a 20V head would be interesting
4A-GE performance guide would be good
Hy
Very interesting videos.
But really 140hp at the wheels with a stock engine?
Thats about over 170 at the crank....
I am confused...
head is modified as stated in video. plus has good headers and exhaust. also has minimal acessories and 3.7kg flywheel. so will show a touch more on dyno due to less inertia. I dont think there would be that much driveline loss. maybe 160 crank at the most. which is around blacktop 4age power
@@Garage4age yes, the head work, header and exhaust. But oem cams?
And only with this mods, your engine has the same power as a blacktop?
I have a smallport ae92 and my car have only a complete 2,5inch exhaust with stock header.
He makes 100hp at the wheels and 128hp at the crank.
You makes 40hp at the wheels more with stock cams, only header, ecu and head work.
Thats very much i think.
@@silversups88 I didn't think it would make this much power either. but if run the numbers its about right, my blacktop 20v in my daily driver (fwd) made 137hp on this dyno. it has a small amount of work done to inlet ports and chambers, aftermarket ecu, decat pipe. otherwise stock. both engines are using just over 200cc worth of fuel which also backs up the numbers. the smallport has more midrange also
@@Garage4age ok that's awesome.
Please make a test with a stock head also.
You live my dream.
I want also a dyno in my garage 😁
I would test everything every day.
So i love your videos.
@@silversups88 I have a stock bigport head here that im probably going to put on it. unless i can find a stock smallport head. they are getting harder to find for a good price.
I enjoyed this
I have a few questions if you don't mind.
1. Are you using a standard size head gasket?
2. The head drain; is this just routed to the pan as the big port block doesn't have the drain?
3. Are you a massive proponent to ARP head studs instead of bolts? (doesn't this really make a difference if I don't plan on opening my motor again)
4. Head and Block been shaved/decked?
5. Standard injectors?
6. Opinion on bigport cams in a smallport head?
Cheers.
stock gasket
drains into sump yeh.
i always use arp head studs, mostly because can reuse them. not really necessary on a na engine, but would always use them on a turbo setup that makes a bit of power
head has only had a light skim in the past for straightness.
has caldina gtt 540cc becuse thats what had hanging around. using about 200cc worth at this power
havent tried bigport cams, but would like to. since age old question. i would think the difference in power would be pretty small.
@@Garage4age awesome, thanks for the info. As for your exhaust its just the one that was on the 150kw motor? Do you mind me asking the setup? Diameter of exhaust, are you running a resonator etc.
yeah everything on the exhaust side is the same. after the collector its 3" with 2 reso's then a big glass pack/ mulitpass combo at rear. with internal diameters of at least 3" to keep flow up. cant hear exhaust over intake, well on the itb's at least.
I live in los angeles California USA. I know nothing about tuning. I have a 1988 sc mr2 4agze. I want to build me a 7agte. What fo you recommend I need to get it done on the cheap 350whp? Thanks
Personally I would stick with the 4a. turbo the engine that's in there if is in ok condition. maybe aim a touch lower on the hp and will be reliable with good ecu and tune. just swapping from supercharger to turbo really wakes them up. then if its not fast enough build another engine. good thing about the 4a's is they are strong from factory. 7a you will need to do rods and the likes. and they have a 6 bolt flywheel, rather than 8 like 4a. so cant use your bigger 4agze clutch. spend the money on a nice turbo setup instead.
Would be cool to see how much boost it takes before it pops .
You could do a 7AFE with GE head...
Hi It would be interesting to test different LSA on the golden turd say 100, 110 and 120
I feel like 'Golden Bum Nugget' would be a much nicer name than Gold Turd
iv noticed that some arp head studs say to torque the studs and some dont .. im that guy where i guy torque the studs doesnt have to be over the top this finger tight.. then there could be knock off arp gear to
from memory these ones just say do up finger tight. ive put so many in i dont read the box anymore haha. I just straight edge them to make sure they all at the bottom/same height.
@@Garage4age yeh i saw a video on a guys evo where arp said finger tight and they cam loose .. then when u look up arp site said to torque them .. are there old stock or china knock offs.. its probably only gonna be line 18nm with plus 60d or something.. but yeh just gives me hibby givvy . Everything has torque spec.. oem level. If it makes a difference is trial and error .. fuck havent torque a wheel nut in like 6 years
yep def do a guide
Yes do the series - Also can i drop a block off to you to fresh? :D
if its full of money, sure 😂
I'll send you my sc12 if you wanna do some experimenting with it
how about using forged rod and 12.5:1 comp ratio pistons with 288/272 10 mm lift? all the parts i have need to put toghetter!
Its getting cams in next weeks vid.
@@Garage4age now we will see different power curve! less torque thought.
Did you check the clearances or did you just send it?
just sent it. well I measured up the the crank and its still in spec for standard bearings. bores not so much. as has a few marks in it which would need a .5 overbore it fix. so it got a dingleberry hone and some 2nd hand rings.
@@Garage4age cool man looking forward to see how it holds up
Daaaaaaaaang dawg gc’s new heart be looking 🔥 as fuk fam
Mate whats your exhaust setup diameter from headers??? do you have any cats and what about inlet diamater of your rear box single pipe or dual? Just asking cuz installed oem rear muffler on my old 1.8 16v nissan and i can feel that my power has decreased a bit before have had just straight through muffler with 46mm inlet same on current oem muffler ...
3" after collector. oversized for this engine but doesn't hurt power like some people think. 2 reso's and custom twin 2.5 exit muffler at rear. if you want to keep noise down but flow up use a normal style muffler not a straight through, but go up a couple of pipe sizes over your exhaust size.
@@Garage4age hard to find compact sized muffler with good muffling capacity, 80s hatches aint big cars 😂, would you do and muffler/exhaust setups dynos to show differences like 2" vs 2.5 or straight pipe vs oem
Yeah thats why i made my own. Nothing planned just yet but will likely do some exhaust stuff in the future
Standard small port cams? What compression and cams does the 150kw engine have?
yeh standard smallport cams in this one. makes more power than it should from the head work and exhaust boltons. 150kw engine has 300deg cams and about 13:1 compression
Should try and find a 4agze charger lol
Hello what is the cylinder capacity please 1300 cc or 1600 cc of the test engine when you test the trompets size and cam timing and exhaust in the videos ? thank s
All of them are 1600cc. Not all the same engine though
@@Garage4age thanks s a lot mister ,i was for 15 Years mechanical technicien on test bench for formula one engines ans i want toi Say that y are doing excepional work
Hello! You have only one fan in front of the radiador? Not another behind?
yeah, doesn't take much to keep it cool
@@Garage4age thanks! I have the Same radiator (un the other side) but in heavy tráffic My temp go up and up, 96/98 in summer
There must be something wrong. 140hp is power we in CZ get from 1,3l 8V OHV with twin Weber DCOE45.
At the wheels? this engine is actually doing pretty good for almost stock engine, they are only rated to make 134hp at engine factory. and these are wheel numbers
@@Garage4age Yes, on wheels. And that 1,3 is from Skoda 120. It is rated to from 34-46kW. With these carbs and sharper cam, it is doing over 140hp (at around 7-8k RPM)
@@martincoufalik9101 Nice. This engine is basically stock. my other engine makes over 200hp at wheels
@@Garage4age yeah, i saw them all, i am your big fan :) Check out these czech engines, they have been racing in that 120-145hp spec since 70s. 130LR even beaten 037, Quattro and others in Group B :)
the coolant sensor plugging the brake booster port lole
I think that was pressure switch off a hilux booster vac tank. so fit for cause 😂
err im sorry but im not a believer ... maybe you should try this on a dynopac dyno to see if your dyno is way off. .... My 4agze (with SC and more boost) made less than this at the wheels. But maybe it gets there cos of the after market computer and headers and exhaust...and emissions stuff ... Honestly doing a video to see if removing the emissions stuff actually makes a HP difference would be interesting.
Well i thought it would make less also. But as for dyno being wrong. My daily blacktop 20v, which are rated to make similar peak power as 4agze, made 103kw (138hp) in fwd configuration, so in theory less drive line loss. 20v also has a little headwork, aftermarket ecu, so on the high end of what they should make stock. If run the fuel injector numbers on engine in this vid, its using just over 200cc at 12.8afr which also backs up the numbers. remember the head is not stock and is running exhaust bolt ons from the 150kw engine which has had plenty of development time . plus if you look at the graph it holds peak almost to 8000rpm. they usually die before then. I was actually hoping it would make less, then was going to use 20v parts, (itb's and the likes) to try beat the 20v numbers. but hey its already done it. need a stock head and crappy headers
@@Garage4age im going to sound old now... my most loved car was the AE101 4agze.. and i used to be rather involved in the toyota club back then (20 years and a bit ago) We used to take them down Meremere Dragway. the 20v's from the AE101 and AE111 were most interesting because the fastest ones were the most stock ones with the least mods... IT really hacked off some of the guys who spent a lot of money on their cars... LOL
Back to the dyno i guess im a little disappointed cos i just assumed you'd start with a stock car then work your way though it but instead you started where most people would have ended and.... heck 120KW at the wheels would make me scream for joy in a NA 1600..... Mightcarmods 1800 trubo Yaris made 150 then died a few days later.. and you managed 140!............. I have a 1600 Swift now.. and im missing the power of the 90's 1600 toyota's...... Im intending to electric turbo it... but that's going to cost about 4K. but will be interesting (Im already in the process).
Yeah one of the ideas for this engine, (not the main one thats still top secret) was to step back from the 150kw engine, as is pretty close to end of development. Start at the bottom or close to it. but using the modified head and fancy exhaust side didn't work out so good for that.. smallport heads are getting harder to find and go for good money, which i dont have a lot of to spend on this, but if something comes up will swap a stock one on, and maybe some crappy cobys, because thats where most people start. Ive been playing with these engines for over 10 years, so hard to compare to mcm stuff where they've just wacked a turbo on a wrecker engine. The starlet has done a 13.5 @ 103mph at meremere back when it had probably around 140kw. electric turbo sounds interesting.
Man, I was just 3hp off with my guess!
I want a header like that for my 20v where can I get one
I built them.
Yea bro love it, just do it bro....or else cooked da man some eggs...
5:55 ...hang it on a chain [insert "N-word" here] yo!
What compression approx does it have?
10.3 ish
класс!
Were those bigport cams?
smallport cams
I'd love to see a dyno comparison of smallport cams vs bigport cams. Everyone always says they're a upgrade. But no factual dyno data.
@@driftsteve same here
What are you using for a CAS or crank trigger?
Using hall sensors. working on a bolt on hidden trigger system. 20v version almost ready to go
Garage 4age awesome I’m having some issues with the GZE cas and heat from my turbo.
I cooked the stock cas on my hilux for the same reason. been running the same hall sensors on it for years now after that happening. gives way cleaner signal stock, so timing etc is a lot more accurate. just trying to come up with a more easy to install setup, that doesn't look horrible
@@Garage4age I am currently working on somthing similar and I will be posting up some videos to my Facebook page tomorow on it of you wanna check it out for some Inspiration MT performance engines is my page, love the videos bro keep them coming
What compression is this
10.5:1 ish
What ecu are you running?
link g4