I always receive my orders from amain in 2 days (3 days tops) to my door. That is some damn good service. Keep up the good work. You guys and RPP are the best!
I always buy from my local hobby shop unless they don't have the right item. That is called INSTANT delivery. Trouble is you will walk in for one car and come out with 10 😂😂😂
I always support my local hobby stores. I prefer to get my stuff same day and support local. However, AMain is technically a local "small" business and their service is second to none and phenomenal. I order from them when I can't get something local
Lol - I had to add a thumbs up after the "well the Arrma's fanbois will have a field day with this". 😂🤣😂🤣 They're overjoyed with the breakage regardless of how/why. 🤫 LOL **For the record, I have both and love both Traxxas and Arrma.
Ha ha, for a rc shop, i like the humor in the last videos i watched. Most of the shop tend to say that the product they show in the video worth to be buy. But in yours, you are able to show thing which look to me more concret.
My neighbors son drove my 6s maxx for about 45min. He broke: motor mounts, steering rack mounts, cracked front and rear differential and got sand in them, and cracked front chassis. That thing has a lot of power. I stripped it down, rebuilt and was thrashing it again two days later. I love my maxx almost as much as I love my xmaxx
Trouble with the belted tyre's is their weight, it takes more power to turn these so even if they do not baloon as much as the stock one's the weight will hold it back as they are considerally heavier.
@@Nickwillfixit the electronics will handle that weight just fine. But the driveline however... perhaps the erevo 2.0 tires would be better for it. should be similar to the rustler 4x4 vxl tires no? i had very little ballooning on those rustler tires.
Nick Ing dazed & confused you want heavy wheels with that much power keeps the center gravity low and planted and allows for full traction at max throttle
All I did on my maxx to make it 6s is install xmaxx 8s esc in there. It bolts right up. The 4s motor has been taking 6s with no issues 😂. The spur gear is plastic, but I've never been able to strip it 👍
@@xXxREDEEMEDxXx-yc9ne I wouldn't try that. It's insane on 6s and I barely do that. Actually I got a max 8 esc on my maxx 4s and just run 4s on it. It does standing backflips on 4s with Kaiju tires. That's enough for me. Honestly, even with the 8s Traxxas esc, the punch is not there. That's why I prefer the hobbywing esc on my Traxxas rigs.
your face during the walk of shame when you know something broke and you don't have the parts on hand to fix it. we all know how that feels. another great video, cool down to earth vibe.
Thanks rizzod. Definitely not the trucks fault. Tumbling at those speeds on pavement would break most things, including me. But breaking when there are zero parts right now really hurts. -Brett
Enjoy your job bro....there's alot of peeps that beat the breaks off ya to get it...I just watch lol. And you kill it man. Love the upgrades of new toys.
Some tips for y’all trying to make this Maxx go faster in a straight line without instant death of itself: We all know that Traxxas cars don’t have great tuning options, but if you can change the suspension setup, you can change it to fight against wheelies. (Different shock oils, springs, maybe pistons, what holes the shocks go on, etc.) A stiffer shock setup with lower ride height is what you should stride for. If you can put spacers on the shock shafts inside the shock bodies(under the pistons), do that. Increasing droop up front will allow the a-arms to travel downward a bit more so the tires will be in contact with the ground longer if/when the truck attempts to lift the front. Since the truck is a 4x4, you can move whatever existing weight on the chassis farther forward to help push down the front. Lower the center of gravity as much as you can. (Mount the esc lower, remove the extra abs plastic from the body, etc.) If you can mount the battery forward or rearward, mount it forward. If you can increase anti-squat, then do that. More outward toe up front (\ _ /) will make the truck pull straighter. Harder inserts in the tires will reduce ballooning. If you don’t want to unglue the tires to put in harder inserts, you can tape over the vent holes in the wheels and CA glue over the vent holes in the tires to fight against ballooning. Mounting a rear wing from a 1/8 or 1/10 scale buggy up front, and down low can help provide downforce up front to keep the front tires down. Like you said, a longer, wider, stiffer wheelie bar will help, too. Try that after you’ve tried all this. There are more things you can do to improve the setup for what you’re doing, but you can find info on that all over the place. If the truck’s tires are spinning or losing traction, you can put tire sauce on them. Keep applying it between passes; burn it in. Remember, these changes are to help the truck keep the nose down and go straight while going fast. This is not recommended for anything else. Car setup is different for each and every different situation. Hope this helps! -Ev
It's a 4x4 meant for off-roading why would you lower it to the ground....LMFAO that's like buying an E Revo 2.0 and trying to turn it into an indy car. Just use it as it was meant to be used and you won't have problems.
Nice to see it readily accepts a Castle system, because I’m considering buying a MAXX pre-roller so I can utilize something similar. The drawback is not being able to use Traxxas’s proprietary LED light system. 😖 Maybe not a deal breaker, but their integrated light system looks good.
I'm gonna be putting in a Spektrum Firma 150a ESC and a Spektrum 4074 2050kv motor from my Arrma Felony into my Maxx. Not planning on running 6S. I was worried the motor mount wouldn't hold. Glad to see that'll be a non issue
When there is this much power, that wheelie bar needs to be longer and stronger to keep it from flipping. The stampede sticks our much farther and gives better control. Nice video MAN !~!!
I was hit with the speed bug with my first Tmaxx by putting a .21 OS in there back in the day. The fun was short lived though as I started destroying the truck with all that crazy extra power. My slash on 3 is fun for a minute but I think if I want real speed, I'll build a drag car. These big trucks don't take kindly to high speed endos and neither does the wallet. I keep mine on the dirt now with speed I can control.
You need some sort of weight on the front end if you want to keep the front end down for steering and being able to pull that trigger all the way and get the full power and be able to control it .
That's what my Arrma Granite mega v3 done when I put a surpass hobby 4276 2200kv on a hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 3s esc on a 19T pinion. It would do between 40 n 50 and if I floored it at those speeds it would wheelie n flip. Lol so I ordered the Long wheel base and turning it into the Kraton. I got the arms cvds rods ect basically every thing. And I'm using a diff body though. I got the Kraton 4s shells I got 5 of em diff ones some old n new from my other kraton 4s and my 6s kraton body also fits. I got the proline 2.8 Interco Super Swampers from proline on it as well. I absolutely love it lol. Now it's even better.. the swb chassis I'm going to build the outcast 4s with it. Already ordered everything last night plus some new Arrma skins for both of the builds. But yeah overpowering is bad ass but it can be costly
The curb didn't cause the break. The first hard landing on that tire is what caused the damage. (when it landed upside down on the right front tire, you can clearly see the castor block fly off and the tire flop around afterward before the curb)
The wings not a bad idea; would that really help keep down the front? The surfer is cool, right? It is R/C ;) We are just waiting a trip to water. -Brett
I don’t see why not? Of course, I would try one of the wider front wings, placed a little toward the front of the nose to get that angle, and use at least 2 strips of double-sided tape to make sure the high speed doesn’t just rip it off. I wouldn’t consider actually bolting it to the body, unless it’s a “last resort” thing. I’d hate to put holes in the body just for that. Gotta keep that body down - once it lefts, you’re just suffering from that “parachute effect” that SCT’s are known for. You know, as much as I love cars, I’m really looking forward to that Surfer video, if you guys decide to do one! 👍🏼
Great info as always Brett👍👍 This is insane on 6S. Would love to see how it would perform with the belted tires. As always Brett, keep pushing those limits😁
I put a max6 in my v2 maxx. But with stock 2400kv motor. Swapped the remote with an Arrma slt3 remote so I have the throttle limit switch. Just if I wanna calm it down without using anything other than 6s.
got caster blocks up running...ordered alum wheel mount splines...no nutz or tool... ordered yesterday...pretty lammmb not all together as kit...still having fun...can i now run pl trencher belted??struggling with wheel tire combo...ur vid makes it look easy,my local shop says no....thanx u always respond....more tune upgrade vids please
Also now that i own this truck i can verify it does have a center diff 👍 i don't know why it also has the cush drive also but yes guys the cush drive turns the center diff also my center diff already came with super thick fluid im guessing 20mil atleast. Also any xmaxx steel spur gear will fit this maxx as the stock spur is plastic. It's huge but still plastic. I was so against this truck at first but now that i own it everything is triple the size it needs to be so I'm pretty impressed.
You should do the wide max conversion on this mini max lol. And add aluminum chassis brace , and aluminum Casters , aluminum steering hubs. And add some aluminum shock guards. Make it stronger 💪 chassis wise. Even though it's a tough truck already box stock it's always a good idea to toughing up basher rigs. You could also add a stainless steel chassis skid plate that covers the entire bottom of the truck to protect it more. I actually got one on both my older Kraton 4s and Big rock v3 BLX. And I got aluminum a arms aluminum full suspension from integy on both. And ppl say aluminum isn't a good idea for basher A-Arms because it could break the chassis.. well with those stainless steel skid plates iv added to them has completely protected the chassis ect. I haven't broken anything major on my rigs because of it.. now my other ones that don't have that stainless steel skid plate I have broken em in half.. so I high recommend a full bottom stainless skid plate. I'm adding two of em to my two current projects
haha love the music and b/w footage when you broke it on that speed pass. Nice dramatic effect and excellent song. Who made that music? Well done. That setup looks brutal! :)
Wondering about the long term on that battery strap. My concern is that when the battery warms up it softens the adhesive and comes loose. I use a hair dryer to loosen servo/ receiver tape to get it off so same idea.
I was too but it's still stuck on there, although our truck is back on 4S. These battery straps are designed for 3D helicopters which do some insane maneuvers and are subject to intense forces. Not sure what adhesive it is, but it's really tacky, more so than anything else in R/C i've experienced. -Brett
Epic stuff Brett. Went thru the whole range of emotions there.. haha. I bet CCxRC is going to be very happy with your batt strap suggestion. I was going to mention the RPM Mamba X mount.. but you remembered that next day! Break seems totally reasonable for those tumbles... cumulative hits then.. SNAP!
Since it's the MX esc, you can adjust the throttle curve. I had to do that on my MMv1 (HPI Blur F360C) I put in my ERBEv2. It was just too violent for the first half of the trigger to be fun to drive.
We are using the stock motor mount with the pin and the stock gearing. We just took out the old motor and put in a new motor, nothing else changed in that respect. -Brett
You can't use the Traxxas LED Light Kit if you don't have the Traxxas ESC in there. You need the aux port which the Castle ESC does not provide. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks Brett for your quick reply! I guess I will put the vxl 6s instead so I can put it back the power regulator.. I think this way will work. Thanks a lot!
Hello what heat sink and fan would you recommend for this motor?, because I am using 4s with a castle fan and it got hot way hotter than I ever got the stock maxx motor
This 1/8 fan mount should work with 39.5mm-40.5mm diameter motor cans, which yours probably is (better verify first though): www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-1-8-v2-ebuggy-clamp-on-fan-mount-black-exo1914blk/p-qqqrt2kqnm2eqctz This fan is also great to use: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p-qqzlt2eq7mzxactz -Brett
I always receive my orders from amain in 2 days (3 days tops) to my door. That is some damn good service. Keep up the good work. You guys and RPP are the best!
super fast unless you order large items. my kraton 8s shipping time is over a week
I always buy from my local hobby shop unless they don't have the right item. That is called INSTANT delivery. Trouble is you will walk in for one car and come out with 10 😂😂😂
I always support my local hobby stores. I prefer to get my stuff same day and support local. However, AMain is technically a local "small" business and their service is second to none and phenomenal. I order from them when I can't get something local
As with everything in life,
Just because you can doesn't mean you should.
Jarek z
true, but it was fun to watch
No no no no.....you ALWAYS should :) lol
It does get a bit tiring watching people try to make everything faster than it was designed for...I have a max, it does just fine on 4s
Lol - I had to add a thumbs up after the "well the Arrma's fanbois will have a field day with this". 😂🤣😂🤣
They're overjoyed with the breakage regardless of how/why. 🤫
LOL
**For the record, I have both and love both Traxxas and Arrma.
HA! Awesome. I'm with you Brad, I love good R/C's, regardless of the brand.
-Brett
Damn. Every time my RC starts tumbling out of control I'm always thinking : I hope I don't hit a car or a person 😂. Great job guys!
Ha ha, for a rc shop, i like the humor in the last videos i watched. Most of the shop tend to say that the product they show in the video worth to be buy. But in yours, you are able to show thing which look to me more concret.
that long walk to go pick up a broken RC...
"please be an easy fix"
"please be an easy fix"
"please be an easy fix"
ehhh, 100$
The dollar sign goes before the number BTW
@@yezzy5970 ok what about it
Not even. If you replace with stock parts its only maybe 30.
@@coffeyscarburetors6437 you dont know what broke
@@RealJawnes he broke a c hub. I know about what it cost cause i also have a maxx and i just broke that same part a few weeks ago.
My neighbors son drove my 6s maxx for about 45min.
He broke: motor mounts, steering rack mounts, cracked front and rear differential and got sand in them, and cracked front chassis. That thing has a lot of power. I stripped it down, rebuilt and was thrashing it again two days later. I love my maxx almost as much as I love my xmaxx
Try running a set of belted proline tires see how much power you can put down.
Great video though fellas.
Trouble with the belted tyre's is their weight, it takes more power to turn these so even if they do not baloon as much as the stock one's the weight will hold it back as they are considerally heavier.
@@Nickwillfixit the electronics will handle that weight just fine. But the driveline however... perhaps the erevo 2.0 tires would be better for it. should be similar to the rustler 4x4 vxl tires no? i had very little ballooning on those rustler tires.
Nick Ing dazed & confused you want heavy wheels with that much power keeps the center gravity low and planted and allows for full traction at max throttle
I appreciate the humor and honesty. It was a hard hit, can’t blame the truck. Maybe the tires...
All I did on my maxx to make it 6s is install xmaxx 8s esc in there. It bolts right up. The 4s motor has been taking 6s with no issues 😂. The spur gear is plastic, but I've never been able to strip it 👍
Can it take 8s power ?
@@xXxREDEEMEDxXx-yc9ne I wouldn't try that. It's insane on 6s and I barely do that. Actually I got a max 8 esc on my maxx 4s and just run 4s on it. It does standing backflips on 4s with Kaiju tires. That's enough for me. Honestly, even with the 8s Traxxas esc, the punch is not there. That's why I prefer the hobbywing esc on my Traxxas rigs.
your face during the walk of shame when you know something broke and you don't have the parts on hand to fix it. we all know how that feels.
another great video, cool down to earth vibe.
Thanks rizzod. Definitely not the trucks fault. Tumbling at those speeds on pavement would break most things, including me. But breaking when there are zero parts right now really hurts.
-Brett
Enjoy your job bro....there's alot of peeps that beat the breaks off ya to get it...I just watch lol. And you kill it man. Love the upgrades of new toys.
It handled the power alright but it couldn't handle the Brett!
Should've been a soulja
Some tips for y’all trying to make this Maxx go faster in a straight line without instant death of itself:
We all know that Traxxas cars don’t have great tuning options, but if you can change the suspension setup, you can change it to fight against wheelies. (Different shock oils, springs, maybe pistons, what holes the shocks go on, etc.) A stiffer shock setup with lower ride height is what you should stride for. If you can put spacers on the shock shafts inside the shock bodies(under the pistons), do that. Increasing droop up front will allow the a-arms to travel downward a bit more so the tires will be in contact with the ground longer if/when the truck attempts to lift the front. Since the truck is a 4x4, you can move whatever existing weight on the chassis farther forward to help push down the front. Lower the center of gravity as much as you can. (Mount the esc lower, remove the extra abs plastic from the body, etc.) If you can mount the battery forward or rearward, mount it forward. If you can increase anti-squat, then do that. More outward toe up front (\ _ /) will make the truck pull straighter. Harder inserts in the tires will reduce ballooning. If you don’t want to unglue the tires to put in harder inserts, you can tape over the vent holes in the wheels and CA glue over the vent holes in the tires to fight against ballooning. Mounting a rear wing from a 1/8 or 1/10 scale buggy up front, and down low can help provide downforce up front to keep the front tires down. Like you said, a longer, wider, stiffer wheelie bar will help, too. Try that after you’ve tried all this. There are more things you can do to improve the setup for what you’re doing, but you can find info on that all over the place. If the truck’s tires are spinning or losing traction, you can put tire sauce on them. Keep applying it between passes; burn it in. Remember, these changes are to help the truck keep the nose down and go straight while going fast. This is not recommended for anything else. Car setup is different for each and every different situation.
Hope this helps!
-Ev
It's a 4x4 meant for off-roading why would you lower it to the ground....LMFAO that's like buying an E Revo 2.0 and trying to turn it into an indy car. Just use it as it was meant to be used and you won't have problems.
I love it how you are modding an unrealised model.
It's been fully realised... It's also been released.
Nice to see it readily accepts a Castle system, because I’m considering buying a MAXX pre-roller so I can utilize something similar. The drawback is not being able to use Traxxas’s proprietary LED light system. 😖 Maybe not a deal breaker, but their integrated light system looks good.
Wow my Maxx can barely survive on a 3s yet you guys are ripping a 50 mph wheelie and barely broke anything on the crash
Still this was awesome to see
I'm gonna be putting in a Spektrum Firma 150a ESC and a Spektrum 4074 2050kv motor from my Arrma Felony into my Maxx. Not planning on running 6S. I was worried the motor mount wouldn't hold. Glad to see that'll be a non issue
Hahaha, love the humor! I'm rebuilding my Maxx now and definitely going to go 6s. Great video!
When there is this much power, that wheelie bar needs to be longer and stronger to keep it from flipping. The stampede sticks our much farther and gives better control. Nice video MAN !~!!
Brett your the man and you know your rcs keep up the awesome videos
The sad, dejected Brett is the best part of these vids.
😂😂😂....LOL!! Keep up the humor Brett! Well done! 👏👏👏
Dude has a 50" hdtv as a phone😂😂😂😂
It was a Maxx phone - the VIP way to get parts from Traxxas!
He uses his 8k big screen curved TV!
I was gonna say the same thing dude
@@offworkhours x maxx phone***
You're still the best!
Haha awesome! The Maxx is already getting pushed to the Maxx!! Cool video bro! 💪🏼🔥
keep up the good work on the videos Brett. Very entertaining to watch.
I enjoy all of your videos. So hard core I love it.
Thanks Casey.
-Brett
I was hit with the speed bug with my first Tmaxx by putting a .21 OS in there back in the day. The fun was short lived though as I started destroying the truck with all that crazy extra power. My slash on 3 is fun for a minute but I think if I want real speed, I'll build a drag car. These big trucks don't take kindly to high speed endos and neither does the wallet. I keep mine on the dirt now with speed I can control.
You need some sort of weight on the front end if you want to keep the front end down for steering and being able to pull that trigger all the way and get the full power and be able to control it .
That's what my Arrma Granite mega v3 done when I put a surpass hobby 4276 2200kv on a hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 3s esc on a 19T pinion. It would do between 40 n 50 and if I floored it at those speeds it would wheelie n flip. Lol so I ordered the Long wheel base and turning it into the Kraton. I got the arms cvds rods ect basically every thing. And I'm using a diff body though. I got the Kraton 4s shells I got 5 of em diff ones some old n new from my other kraton 4s and my 6s kraton body also fits. I got the proline 2.8 Interco Super Swampers from proline on it as well. I absolutely love it lol. Now it's even better.. the swb chassis I'm going to build the outcast 4s with it. Already ordered everything last night plus some new Arrma skins for both of the builds. But yeah overpowering is bad ass but it can be costly
Dude can fingerboard??? Sick!
The "4s" stock motor can handle 6s Brett . Try it . Worked fine. Also i would never drive this on 6s until they come out with metal drive shafts
Awh, good to know. So I suppose you could just swap out the VXL-4S for the VXL-6S and go. Thanks for the tip.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies 👍
Yeah. People are forgetting the 540xl is a boat motor (that really isn’t that good) but in those boats has 6 cell lipo going through it
Metal driveshafts came out last week fyi
@@99thpeanut59 how does the stock traxxas maxx motor match up against castle engine?
Nice work! Love your content. Been a fan for a while.
What a video Brett amazing bro
This is how I feel driving my 2wd rustler vxl on 3s. Pulls the front end up at 60mph no problem
That's sure to get your heart pumping!
-Brett
The curb didn't cause the break. The first hard landing on that tire is what caused the damage. (when it landed upside down on the right front tire, you can clearly see the castor block fly off and the tire flop around afterward before the curb)
You could always try an off-road buggy Front wing on the hood...
Ooh! When are you going to feature that surfer? Is that radio controlled too?
The wings not a bad idea; would that really help keep down the front?
The surfer is cool, right? It is R/C ;) We are just waiting a trip to water.
-Brett
I don’t see why not? Of course, I would try one of the wider front wings, placed a little toward the front of the nose to get that angle, and use at least 2 strips of double-sided tape to make sure the high speed doesn’t just rip it off. I wouldn’t consider actually bolting it to the body, unless it’s a “last resort” thing. I’d hate to put holes in the body just for that. Gotta keep that body down - once it lefts, you’re just suffering from that “parachute effect” that SCT’s are known for.
You know, as much as I love cars, I’m really looking forward to that Surfer video, if you guys decide to do one! 👍🏼
Just slam the shocks and it wouldn’t lift like that I bet
@@AMain_Hobbies I love the rc surfer! Hope it shreds reminds me of the toy grade ones years ago... Hopefully this ones a little more hobby grade 🤣
I've been watching this dude since he had his own yt channel. good shit haha.
11:15 or maybe more weight on the front 🤷♂️
Great info as always Brett👍👍 This is insane on 6S. Would love to see how it would perform with the belted tires. As always Brett, keep pushing those limits😁
Madness! Love it!👌🏼💪🏼👍
Yep. Strap those tires with gorilla line and try again. Makes the front end stay down more due to the no tire ballooning
no reason to rig tires like that Proline makes belted tires problem solved
You earned the subscribe! Thanks Brett
Wound up putting 6s in my 1/10 summit. Standing backflips and ballooning tires like crazy. Castle Monster X 1515-2200kv
8:47 at actually broke before hitting the curb, landed on the side of the wheel when the wheel was still turned and just snapped.
I put a max6 in my v2 maxx. But with stock 2400kv motor. Swapped the remote with an Arrma slt3 remote so I have the throttle limit switch. Just if I wanna calm it down without using anything other than 6s.
..........power is useless without control.
Nice vid !
That truck with steel cv by hotracing she’s unstoppable
So this was another great video! Awesome
Put a wider and longer wheelie bar and have it really close to ground it’ll help putting the front end down.
Great info. Careful stating any details about this truck though. Some people seem to take it the wrong way.
That was awesome Brett!!!!
Now you need a wing or two for downforce lol... 6s seems pretty insane for most people. Glad you guys tried this so I don’t have to waste the money.
got caster blocks up running...ordered alum wheel mount splines...no nutz or tool... ordered yesterday...pretty lammmb not all together as kit...still having fun...can i now run pl trencher belted??struggling with wheel tire combo...ur vid makes it look easy,my local shop says no....thanx u always respond....more tune upgrade vids please
How do u guys clean ur RC cars soo welll
Traxxas tuff baby!
Slap the belted tires on and test it out!😉😎 RPM make more parts for it?
Oh yeah, I'm sure they will.
-Brett
Jaco foams from back in the day!
hahaha, sorry for laughing. we've all crashed . . subbed. i feckin' love RC. nitro is my thing
I was gonna do that but my plan included a wing! Pretty cool!
I'm 6'7" and the way you answered that "Phone"..related situation.....imagine seeing clear pix, video, and txt....tall boy probs!! 🤣🤣🤣
Also now that i own this truck i can verify it does have a center diff 👍 i don't know why it also has the cush drive also but yes guys the cush drive turns the center diff also my center diff already came with super thick fluid im guessing 20mil atleast. Also any xmaxx steel spur gear will fit this maxx as the stock spur is plastic. It's huge but still plastic. I was so against this truck at first but now that i own it everything is triple the size it needs to be so I'm pretty impressed.
When are you going to make it 8s
I have the MAXX and the self righting is a nice thing to have but it’s hardly works it just leans to the side and I can’t self right it
We had that happen a few times too but it was mostly successful. Is this happening on flat ground?
-Brett
Thx so much for the battery strap idea I ordered mine from you all today... Great video👍
Time to test out a 5S battery and see if the power is more usable.
You should do the wide max conversion on this mini max lol. And add aluminum chassis brace , and aluminum Casters , aluminum steering hubs. And add some aluminum shock guards. Make it stronger 💪 chassis wise. Even though it's a tough truck already box stock it's always a good idea to toughing up basher rigs. You could also add a stainless steel chassis skid plate that covers the entire bottom of the truck to protect it more. I actually got one on both my older Kraton 4s and Big rock v3 BLX. And I got aluminum a arms aluminum full suspension from integy on both. And ppl say aluminum isn't a good idea for basher A-Arms because it could break the chassis.. well with those stainless steel skid plates iv added to them has completely protected the chassis ect. I haven't broken anything major on my rigs because of it.. now my other ones that don't have that stainless steel skid plate I have broken em in half.. so I high recommend a full bottom stainless skid plate. I'm adding two of em to my two current projects
I laughed at the overcompensating phone. :D
Rebuild and put a little bit of weight in the front end as well as stiffen/widen the wheelie bar?
They need a lowering kit for the Maxx (along with widening like the Widemaxx)
My truck broke the exact same way. But i was running stock. Ive got to try this now.
haha love the music and b/w footage when you broke it on that speed pass. Nice dramatic effect and excellent song. Who made that music? Well done. That setup looks brutal! :)
Wondering about the long term on that battery strap. My concern is that when the battery warms up it softens the adhesive and comes loose. I use a hair dryer to loosen servo/ receiver tape to get it off so same idea.
I was too but it's still stuck on there, although our truck is back on 4S. These battery straps are designed for 3D helicopters which do some insane maneuvers and are subject to intense forces. Not sure what adhesive it is, but it's really tacky, more so than anything else in R/C i've experienced.
-Brett
Epic stuff Brett. Went thru the whole range of emotions there.. haha. I bet CCxRC is going to be very happy with your batt strap suggestion. I was going to mention the RPM Mamba X mount.. but you remembered that next day! Break seems totally reasonable for those tumbles... cumulative hits then.. SNAP!
Yeah, I agree with you. The truck is really tough. Tumbling at those speeds on pavement would break most things. No fault on the truck.
-Brett
Since it's the MX esc, you can adjust the throttle curve. I had to do that on my MMv1 (HPI Blur F360C) I put in my ERBEv2. It was just too violent for the first half of the trigger to be fun to drive.
From the slow motion it looks like the wheel broke on the tumble before actually hitting the curb
Hey guys i just wanted to ask could you do a unedited run of it just bashing, speed-running, and those accelarations? Thanks!
Yeah, check out our first video of the Maxx, it has a lot more straight bashing. ua-cam.com/video/MFFKsX8E1hA/v-deo.html
-Brett
Brett this is why you can't have nice things! 🤣
The problem is that the small size of the truck causes it to flip over easy. I recommend getting a 6s vehicle separately that is actually built it.
You have an awesome job!!!!
Pretty sure the BEC is set to 5.5v stock..you could possibly get more out of the servo using Castle Link
Good tip, because we did not have time to mess with the BEC.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies I believe you can only set it to 6v with the stock receiver
Wow the drama of it all
My local hobby shop just changed the ESC with the Traxxas 6S. Stock motor. Ran great. Not sure how long the motor would last though.
Someone else was saying that too. Wonder what their temps were.
-Brett
Well DONE ‼️‼️‼️👍🏾 👍🏾🤜🏿🤛🏻✊🏿✊🏿
You should do a race between a 6s x maxx and a maxx
Oh, I like it!
-Brett
That esc is only rated for 4s with that motor. Some belted tires will help alot
R.i.p Traxxas Maxx 2019-2019
🤦♂️
0:01 shred the gnar
I chose this motor and a mamba monster 2 , works great
I gotta ask, are you guys using factory motor mount with pin removed or what. I really need to know cuz a friend of mine is having issues with his.
We are using the stock motor mount with the pin and the stock gearing. We just took out the old motor and put in a new motor, nothing else changed in that respect.
-Brett
Do you have a video with detailed install of new esc and motor?
Just what we show in this video. Shoot over any questions you have and I can help.
-Brett
Can u put weight in the front of RC car so that it doesn’t wheely as easy ?
Widemaxx kit. Better tires. And some front end weights.
Just saw that truck at johns hobbies shop on woodbine and Danforth Area Beautiful Truck though!!
Wonder what would happen if you weighted it down in the front to help reduce the lift.
How do you solve the connection between the power amplifier for the led light to the new esc? Any idea to keep the leds functioning?
You can't use the Traxxas LED Light Kit if you don't have the Traxxas ESC in there. You need the aux port which the Castle ESC does not provide.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thanks Brett for your quick reply! I guess I will put the vxl 6s instead so I can put it back the power regulator.. I think this way will work.
Thanks a lot!
Gotta have a bash off with the pro mt 4x4!! You've proved that truck is pretty dang tough for sure!!
Hello what heat sink and fan would you recommend for this motor?, because I am using 4s with a castle fan and it got hot way hotter than I ever got the stock maxx motor
This 1/8 fan mount should work with 39.5mm-40.5mm diameter motor cans, which yours probably is (better verify first though): www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-1-8-v2-ebuggy-clamp-on-fan-mount-black-exo1914blk/p-qqqrt2kqnm2eqctz
This fan is also great to use: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p-qqzlt2eq7mzxactz
-Brett
Crazy power
2:15 my man sound like he hasnt slept in 4 and a haalf daaays