How much force can a $390 climbing bolt remover pull?
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2022
- I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot. It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf! This is why you have to score, or aggressively spin, a bolt before pulling so the wedge doesn't get engaged because this can generate enough force to snap the bolt and make your existing hole unusable.
Save money and build your own bolt puller. Greg German generously put all the plans and part list on this forum www.mountainproject.com/forum...
Check out the Bolting Bible at www.hownot2.com/post/boltingb...
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The comments lead me to realize that people might think this is what you do to remove bolts and you have to deal with high forces and quick releases. No, you score the bolts and you just put on maybe 5-10kn and it slowly pulls the bolt out of the rock. You can see an episode of Bobby doing that at ua-cam.com/video/58t0eHUJgbo/v-deo.html.
Ryan - As cool as it is to see this tool commercially available, the open source/DIY mode is the only viable approach to volunteer bolt replacement efforts. Can you include a link to the MoPro Doodad 4.0 shopping list thread? Pointing out that it can be made for $50 looks like it's undercutting the profit motive, but I don't think the YABR tools are intended to be a profitable business. I posted the link myself but it doesn't appear here and may have been filtered out...
@@german13289 Yup! Link is now in description and Bolting Bible www.hownot2.com/post/bolting-bible-removing-bolts
This tool is based off of Greg Germans original design, the "Doodad". Greg has generously shared how to build this tool, along with a wealth of other information about sustainable hardware replacement with the climbing community. We all owe him a debt of gratitude for both his engineering skill and countless hours spent replacing old bolts to keep climbers safe.
0:12 That was the most dramatic way to say "extract"... Almost poetically mesmerising! 😜🤣
This guy lives such a cool life. Always outdoors. Gets paid to learn. And also knows sooooo much more than the average person. Good for you
I am privileged to do this stuff. But keep in mind I can make 8 videos out of a 3 day weekend and make it look like my life is unrealistically rad. Mixing the release of iceland videos with Moab videos with Yosemite videos back to back could make it look like I get around but honestly I spend 90% of my time sitting and editing which is definitely not living the dream though I do enjoy telling a story through video form. Be inspired to live your best life but definitely don’t compare yourself to a highly edited version of anyone on social media.
@@HowNOT2 I really appreciated your response. It’s easy to make your life look super cool online, but that could be an unrealistic glimpse of the true quality of one’s life. Thanks for that reminder.
@@HowNOT2 What an honest, thought out response. More YT’s should follow suit. Much respect for being forthcoming.
@@HowNOT2 SO well put!!
I have used the YABR to remove countless bolts, and can't believe I didn't know the handle came off for easier storage!
This thing is very cool! I’m going to have to find that list of components!
We have the same parka. Good taste!
Is catastrophic/explosive failure of brittle materials, upwards toward the groin/femeral artery region at forces in excess of 20kn a concern at all?
All while dangling on a rope. LOL I was thinking that too, especially every time he went to look and put his face right next to it. lol you'd think it would attach to the wall somehow or have some type of bracing to prevent this. I love the idea tho! it just seems like there's a lot that could go wrong, a little R&D, this thing could be perfect!!!!
A hunk of carpet wrapped around the stand would probably be enough to stop flying pieces. Or slow them down.
They make this stuff…
Hmmm, what’s it called!?
Oh yeah, plexiglass!
Or a trip to the E.R.?
Yes and no. Yes it’s a lot of force but the force to distance is really short. In short it shouldn’t accelerate to dangerous speeds. A good more common example is crossbows compared to bows. The cross bow has to be heavier to compensate for a shorter draw length or in physics terms time of acceleration.
Super good enough
This was awesome, I’d love to see maybe just a short video of it in action in a real scenario
ua-cam.com/video/58t0eHUJgbo/v-deo.html.
watching him get so close to that screwjack when it had over 20kn on it was stressing me out, if you look at how it jumps up when it fails you'll understand why, taking that to the face or wrist would be a pretty bad time.
Nearly three minutes in, and I'm wondering where his safety glasses are! lol
Very informative video thank you for making it. I'd like to point out a few truths to help you consider the test and its results. Forces are always balanced (when stuff isn't accelerating) - which means that your bolt extractor pulling up on the bolt at 20kN is also pushing down on the surrounding rock at 20kN, but just outside the bolt. This means that the rock around the bolt will behave a lot differently when subject to the spread out column forces from this test rig versus the local forces from the bolt extractor itself just outside the bolt hole. I'd think it much more likely that the rock will fail between the bolt hole and the rig's columns than it will when directly extracting a bolt - so its quite possible you'll see rock failure mechanisms with this test setup whereas just bolt failure mechanisms when only using the bolt extractor on a bolt directly.
True. I wouldn’t necessarily break rock using it directly against the rock. This setup is definitely just to see the forces the screw can generate and definitely not practical for real life.
nice.
You going to start exploring mines now too, Ryan? That's what I do
Does an impact driver work better?
What is the rating for a compressing force to break a cerrified carabiner?
Where do you find that tool
Personally I would worry about that relatively small ball screw gumming up over time. But to be fair, if one needs that much force, perhaps one is using it wrong.
However, I am curious how that ball screw will last in practice. I know it is fairly well hardened, but I can't help but suspect that abrasive rock dust is going to wear it out over time. (primarily just increasing its turning resistance until it isn't practical to use.)
But a ball screw is likewise an off the shelf part, so buying a replacement one should be fairly trivial.
Man, watching this guy, made me so worried the metal pieces will unspin and hit his junk. Got sweaty hands
“Ahhhhhhhhh”
-Ryan
That looks hard in the vertical
I don't understand how you put that much torque into the crank handle and keep it from unwinding while hanging from a rope on the side of an "incline".
PURE CHADNESS!
Just gotta have a “no ratcheting mechanism mindset” bro
The screw is an inclined plane, so a wedge. Fine thread is in the neighborhood of a 500:1 mechanical advantage for converting torque to axial load. I think the crank uses a ball screw which is really low friction.
I guess in real life situation bolt removal, there is no that much springiness in the system as here, so there would be much less unwinding force.
3:46 if it came out at this moment this video would have been uploaded in a different site
Why isn't there a locking mechanism to prevent it from spinning back on you?
Probably weight/complexity? But I was wondering that too.
@@DreIsGoneFission yeah but you can solve that with just a little gear/latch, lick on rachets .
Friction on the flanks of the threads inside the device prevent it from slipping backwards. This is a common phenomenon in all devices that use threads to hold things
In normal operation the loads are significantly less so I think the friction of the system holds everything in place. Go check out his other videos of actually removing a bolt
That opposition force is actually important feedback: if you pull on the bolt and it slips, the handle will not reverse as far. If you put greater and greater force on the bolt and it reverses to the same position each time, that tells you that the bolt has not moved and you will need to go back to spinning it to score the wedge and defeat the holding power.
You should use a Tascam and a lov mic for audio.
You can simply link the audio in edit and eliminate all the camera guys sound.
Hey Ryan, as others have already pointed out: I think safety googles should be on your list for the next sketchy experiment. Can't write the bolting bible and big wall course without eyes ;-)
looks like you are in cerro gordo. are you there ?
Some random place in Nevada
@@HowNOT2 keep up the good work. Greetings from Norway
something shot up so fast
Where can a guy buy this tool?
how would this work if you have a bad bolt mid climb - w/o a bolt busting table ?
Grinder and paint make me the welder I aint
Hey bro I’m no rock climber but I think you should watch out for your head and nuts on an experiment like this
First
You should be wearing glasses, every time you looked I winced.
You'll want more than glasses if the recoiling top of that puller hits you in the face....
I wish you were wearing safety glasses when you do this kind of stuff. Just feels unnecessarily risky.
Yes! Every time he looked down at the gauge I tensed up.
You should be using eye protection...
Dude, I don't think this was safe. What if something broke at ~20kn, near your femoral artery..
Yeah.. it seemed dangerous when things are under tension and human face is closeby.
I know you have a piece of metal between you and the danger zone but you should really at least be wearing some glasses.
Safety glasses next time please!
To a "non-rock climber" this seems an absolutely silly tool. Why remove the bolts and re-use them?
It'd be heaps easier, cheaper and lighter to carry some spare bolts.
If the idea is to stop other climbers using them, simply remove the nut and knock them in.
Bolts rust and become unsafe. The purpose of this tool is to remove unsafe bolts so safe longer lasting bolts can be installed.
@@HowNOT2 - would be much easier paying a dollar more for stainless steel fixings, then they can stay there literally forever.
@@johncoops6897 Nothing lasts forever. Even stainless has a short lifespan in certain climates.
@@poetac15 - LOL Yeah sure, whatever you say. 🤣
@@johncoops6897 Why do you bother to come comment on a video in which you understand nothing in regards to the actual use of the tool. You could ask nicely and someone would likely explain it to you but you try to be snarky. This tool at its core is designed with the idea of leaving as little trace/impact on the environment in which it is used as possible. This tool allows a route setter to come through and replace existing but failing bolts and re-use the same hole that was there already. If you simply hammer the bolt in then the hole is now useless and it creates and eyesore and a new hole must then be drilled and a new bolt placed. Try being a nicer person John Coops.
You should REALLY look xckd comic number 2662