My trick didn't work
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- Derrick Weiss brought his 7 year old climbing gear to the lab and we pulled on it randomly. We tested some random things like the Belgian Knot, pulling on climbing slings against the stitching, and even drilled holes in the quickdraws to tease the last video we did where we drilled holes in carabiners. • I probably shouldn't m...
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Climbing slings
00:49 Dog Bones
02:01 Anchor tests
03:47 Pulling against stitches on dyneema sling
04:10 Belgian Knot
05:53 ATC Tests
08:15 Overhand in dyneema sling
08:37 - Drilling holes
We tested the Belgian knot in this video on an industrial sling and it worked way better ua-cam.com/video/bhCVdNAb8ZQ/v-deo.html. I think it just isn't good on slippery dyneema! Go subscribe to our other CLIPS channel where we post quickies several times a week.
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Just looking for some advice.... About 20 years ago, I did myself a serious injury to my spine that forced me to stop climbing........ before I could use half the things on my rack that I'd slowly been adding to. This has left me with 3 sets of DMM "friends" (cams, can't remember what they were actually called), the majority of a set of rocks as well as loads of sling, quick draws, etc. Basically, over 60% of my rack has never seen a rock in it's life. They started their storage in my rack bag and then moved to a box and have been in the dark for most of that 20 years. I'm wanting to start teaching my daughter how to climb, but there's a huge question mark on all the stuff with slings. I'm thinking of just cutting all the slings and replacing with various sizes of accessory/prusik cord and attaching with double stopper nots. Just wondering what you'd do in this situation? Thanks
@@Zogg1281 Just my .02, but I'd replace all the soft goods and get the cams reslung from DMM(they'll also clean and lube them). All softgoods to my knowledge have a max recommended shelf life of 10 years if they've never been used, kept dry, and out of the sun. They are probably still strong enough, and I've seen people climb on some old herringbone patterned draws, but if it gives you doubt throw it out.
@@bigmutant69 Didn't know that DMM would re-sling cams for you. They won't need to do the cleaning part as I never go to use them 😭. I think I'm going to go with my gut and do some replacements of all the slings. Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. 👍👍
I'm glad we're still mocking damaging you gear for the sake of saving "One more chocolate chip on my gronola bar" hahahaha
I began climbing in the late 60s and my last really dangerous climb was in 1982. Shortly after that I decided I was done with the sport and was going to sell my gear. As I went through it all, I ended up unsure of which piece of gear had experienced which damage. I ended up chucking the lot as the thought of someone falling on a piece of used gear that I had sold them would have been too much to bear. Too old and arthritic to even walk these days, but I love watching you guys. Cheers ~ulrich
Thanks for sharing your experience ulrich! I bet you have some great climbing stories to tell, where did you do most of your climbing?
Ryan, you have been on a roll! Great pace, great vibe, quick and to the point. Awesome video man👍🏼👍🏼
Lessons (re) learned:
Dynema is slippery!
-Belgian knots with those slings are maybe good enough in a pinch where you have no other choice, but 8kN is more than half as weak as when they were pulled normally!
-Girth hitch master points in Dyneema around a big bow shackle are NOT super good enough(
Why would you ever be falling from above an ATC in guide mode though?
@@Debrugger Because normal belay mode is only safe after the first good protection is clipped in. So you might just keep enough slack for your climber to reach the next bolt and then switch to normal belay mode. IIRC you can even change modes in a safe way.
Agreed on the girth hitch on a carabiner needing more testing.
@@Mike-oz4cv you can clip the anchor, that way your leader won't fall directly from your hip, but from the anchor.
@@Fabianwew We usually belay from the anchor. I know you can add a redirect carabiner.
Dirtbag dash QuickDraws! I didn’t think anyone else had them. I too was a poor freshmen when I purchased. Only started retiring them this year, mainly due to age and being self conscious (they are still in good condition). Glad to know they had some life in them
A lot of hard work goes into this channel and it’s great! Thanks for all you do and the great humor too 😎💪
"I can put one more chocolate chip in my granola bar!" lmao
Breakin' stuff is cooool! (And edumucational).
I was intrigued that the guide mode ATC inverted the ropes at 5kn. You could manage more than that if someone arrived and fell a factor two (or possible more if ATC were extended). Can you test guide mode again sometime as that result was a bit odd… the ATC seems to get pulled off straight at the beginning which put an odd force on the top rope so it didn’t trap the bottom rope properly
this is really good to see because testing shiny gear is something we arent usually concerned with -- most peoples gear has seen some wear
stellar edutainment, as always
Love you guys!!! Super good enough, my motto for life. Thanks for what you do!
Everyone knows that you heat a nail and poke holes in your quick draws to lighten them. 😮
THATS MY BOY DERRICK
How about testing a voodoo knot. It's another resizeable loop that's used by rescue teams.
That shredding sling was wild
I quite enjoyed this style of video!
Haha wow the holes drilled in the dogbone really got me, why was it still so strong LMAO
now that you're in seattle, West Coast Wire Rope and Rigging is nearby! Excellent supplier for all things industrial rigging.
Wow! Will there be a wooden weblock test? )
Fascinating result on that bend test!
Perfect length video!
I wonder how having it ramp up slowly vs being immediate effects the results. When you rip something and can't quite do it slowly doing it impulsively also seems to work better if you know what I mean.
Re bent pin in bow/D-shackle, a safety shackles with a nut on the pin may be "a" solution, at least the pin can still be driven out if it does bend...
10/10 would take 3 more chocolate chips in exchange for my quickdraw
I find it kinda amusing that in the pursuit of trying to teach an alternative to tieing a knot in a dyneema sling, you proved that its basically just as effective (under a constant static load)
My first rope!
Some kind of edelrid special edition.
Boss rope.
It looks to me that the tearing in the first Belgian Knot test at 5:00 is just the green edge band on the sling that if I am not mistaken is usually made out of Nylon. The center part of Dynema looks like it is intact until the slings snap at the end. In the second one, it does happen. I would not be surprised if there was a small nick in the edge band and when it entered the knot it pinched into the nick and the edge band got stuck and started to tear instead of slipping through.
If you look at the construction of the sign the Dyname is the warp and the Nylon is the weft that passes side the side between the warp to give it a fabric structure. When nylon was ripped apart there was nothing holding the Dynmea from the sing shape and you end up with separate long yarns like the inside of a rope.
This also explains why both failed at close to the same load, It is the Dynema, not the Nylong that provides the strength, the nylon just keep it flat
Nuts! I made some quick and dirty moving straps from 1" webbing and some small leather rivets.. (in stead of sewing) They are stronger than I thought but still feels dumb as heck making holes in woven gear!
that weird adjustable sling knot could be used as an impromptu screamer if it was backed up by a second full strength sling. That looks like a lot of energy got eaten up by that heating and sliding at ~8kn. Maybe a thicker sacrificial rope that slips at ~2kn in the same knot could work.
It did cross my mind. I might try that on the drop tower
Would it maybe be interesting to have a figure like "total energy absorbed before failure"? For things that slip, peak force isn't really useful, as the material didn't fail at that force, it slipped. It failed after being subjected to a huge amount of force over a period of time.
It would be interesting for some things not just slip but also the more elastic Vs static setups, area under the graph should represent energy within the system you just want the software to be able to spit out the numbers.
The magic X half twist trick, with one of the loops creating the girth hitch, has been shown to dramatically raise the failure/slipping in a severed side loop (from
I think the girth hitch should be crossed first (like a sliding x) to make it redundant. How to Rock and Alpine Climb has a video where they test this
That ATC has the double of thickness of teeth than mine
That atc was in better condition than the one I use when I bought it (2nd hand)...
My 2016-2017 dyneema slings barely used are probably like within 95% of MBS then
I'm convinced the guy who drilled his carabiners was trolling y'all
I love how the videos are getting slightly more and more unhinged
Hmmm it may be interesting how the belgian knot would behave if shock-loaded. Like bad energy absorber? @HowNOT2 would you like to check it on drop tower? Nice video!
I was thinking this… although the force would have to be less to be useful
Love the content!
Your gear is in such great condition still lol 😆you have me worried about mine
I'm actually amazed that the drilled dogbones held up as well as they did.
That was def supergoodenuff
Nice
The retired rope broke like they do in movies!
Thanks for the great content! Also I had some Google money I had to use up before it expired...
4:58 woooooooahhhhhh!!!!!!!!
Let’s see that Belgian knot and 1” tubular nylon webbing get pulled
Now we just seen one hole made a difference. Can we go back to my question about one hole in the carabiner to see how much that weekens it ? Nothing to do with lightness I just really want to know how much that would compromise it. Love the video man
HI DERRICK!!!!!!!
This guy for some reason reminds me of Linus Tech Tips, but if Linus destroyed Climbing gear instead of building computers :D
So, my Metolius biners say "for rock climbing and mountaineering only." How the heck does a carabiner know what I'm climbing? What if I try to climb a feature with only 250m prominence? Wouldn't that be hilleering?
Perhaps the channel should be named how knot to.
Lmao you'd literally get more weight saving drinking 2mL less water than you'd ever get from drilling gear.
If you don't catch the beads of sweat that roll down your forehead and drink them to allow for bringing less water, are you really trying?