Replacing Climbing Wedge Bolts with Powers Bolts at Sugar Loaf in Tahoe
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- Опубліковано 24 бер 2020
- Bobby Hutton shows us how to remove climbing wedge bolts on a climbing route at Sugar Loaf in Tahoe California and replacing it with 1/2" SS Powers bolts donated by ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org/).
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This video reminds me of the many summer days I spent hanging off a rope, smacking my knuckles on granite, to replace bolts so others could complain online about it. Oh well. Gotta add a water spray bottle and torque wrench to that bolting kit. Thanks for the hard work and thankless job you are doing.
Complain why?
Feedback is biased to negative. People complain more quickly than praise. There's way more people who appreciate your work, but don't say anything.
I am not a climber, but what you and Bobby are doing is important. Thank you for keeping people save.
Hey guys, great vid! Bobby is a re-bolting machine; we connected the following week and did some work in Auburn. Great to see him get credit for all his work.
Thank you for keeping us safe Bobby
Way back in 1981 on my first trip to the US, I volunteered to join a local climber to replace some really ancient 1/4" split bolts on a Tuolumne/Yosemite climb.
I lead up each pitch, then he followed and at each bolt (about 4 or 5 per pitch, so very sparse!) he would use his hammer to remove the old rusty bolt, then use the at the time very modern "self-drilling" hollow bolts (about 10 mm diameter?) with drilling teeth at the bottom: Hammer them in by hand while rotating the core with a handle (i.e. about 20-30 min), then when it was deep enough you withdrew the handle and bolt, inserted a conical wedge in the bottom of the cylindrical bolt and put it back in. A few final taps with the hammer would expand the cylinder and set it in the hole.
The scariest part was that most of the old bolts could be pulled out by hand or with just a single tap with the hammer, so I had in reality more or less soloed the pitch. :-(
Haha, thats such a good story. Do you still climb?
Thanks for your efforts removing and replacing bolts.
I can’t believe you guys went up there without tether cords on everything!
The sound the canned air makes when blowing out the hole (27:36) will be forever stuck in my head, thanks to Bobby!
Good work guys. I am an ASCA volunteer here in Zion. Keep fighting the good fight.
Bobby is a gem and a saint
Awesome video guys! I love the idea of people in the climbing community rebolting popular crags so future climbing generations can continue to appreciate them.
I will probably never be replacing any bolts but for some of reason this video was rather entertaining/interesting.
This is some dedication. I've drilled many bolts into concrete and never cleaned out the hole before I put in a Titan. What a great video!
You guys are great and do an awesome job, awesome work that have helped my confidence in getting into trad and enjoying more rock in more places!
really appreciate your effort renewing some rusty old bolts.
I am especially admiring your ethics regarding reusing the hole (with a bigger diameter).
around my area, I'd say that's the exception. not the rule.
Strong Tie and hilti make a Manual hand pump for blowing out the holes. Might save you a bit in the long run over compressed air. Might take a bit longer. You guys are badass doing this job hanging off a cliff.
If you put a bolt in the first coupler he tried to use. Then you can adjust it to have the bolt bottom out onto the other bolt before the coupler touches the rock and engages the wedge
I thinked of the same thing too, hope they see this comment.
on first bolt, if not enough threads exposed to reach the stop on coupler, you can use the bolt puller to pull some threads out more, than retry to install coupler and try and spin again
Sick video. Super cool dudes... big up from Sweden
A slide hammer with the adapter fitted to it would probably make your job of removing bolts a lot easier!
Awesome video. Thanks for this. What would you do differently if you were replacing sleeve bolts? Or are we not really at that place and time in climbing history yet?
Sick Ryan!!! Learned a lot!! Can you get those couplers at home Depot or Lowe's? Plus I plan on replacing 1/2" Terry bolts here in the pouder soon. What would you recommend I use instead for new bolt? Glue ins? (I'm guessing I would use more glue with bigger hole.
I learned something today.....yay!
Where can i find the bolt removal tool?
More of this!
Thanks guys
nice save 1:41
Have u guys tried using a slide hammer screwed onto the bolt thread? Lov your videos.
What the glue in said to the bolt... your screwed!
Bobby working the magic ..
i love you guys......well done....
Wouldn't be a good nut and a wrench a good option to tighten the bolt and don't make it round?
My favorite line "you have a squeeze bottle in your face." 😅
Reminds me of putting anchors in concrete doing garage doors
A tutorial on the phone space net would be dope
OK that's a clever naming convention.
I felt Bobbies pain when he knuckle busted himself. Awesome video, I wanna get into climbing, but its pretty expensive.
Do u will make some break test with those old bolts?
You need to use slim jam nuts that way the adaptor won't go all the way down to the rock and apply out would force on the sleeve if you want to notch the base of the bolt.
My knuckles bleed that bad from just having horribly dry hands. I was complaining about it last night and now suddenly my phone is like hey : wanna watch other people with bloody knuckles? Hence the thumbnail
Hi guys 😊 where can I get the bold extractor
Have you tried to use a stud remover pipe ? They jam on the bolt, and you could turn it with the impact drill.
I haven't tried that. Do you have a specific product in mind. A web search revealed a bunch of different styles. -Bobby
Can you provide me with info about the "extraction" tool? Instructions on how to make it or buy it.
The MP thread is called “Yet another bolt remover” in the fixed hardware:bolts and anchor section by a guy named Cleatis
Hi there, do you guys have some information on how to remove glue in bolts?
Just turn it with the Maschine until it's lose in the hole and than it's almost the same like you remove the others. And after getting it out you drill the glue away and have a new hole. Sorry my English is not the best. Greetings from Austria
Foot pounds my dude!
Cheers to throwing some new metal up on the loaf y'all!
Great work, but did boby drop the lug nut in 6:39
If you used a bolt and a coupler, could you make a spinner that only engaged a few threads? (The more you put the outer bolt into the coupler, the less space for the bolt you are removing)
Good idea
Bobby, I know you're the expert, but if you use a coupling nut with a bolt set in the back, you can jam it up tight towhere even spinning it won't pull it any tighter. I think that would work well.
Absolutely. Refined my techniques a little since this video. I don't use the impact driver anymore. -Bobb6
@@HowNOT2 Awesome. Thanks for all the hard work you guys do!
Watching a guy replace bolts on the side of a mountain at 3:30AM.. what is going on with my life .-.
That duster can says 90% ozone safe.. what does that even mean???
Two questions.
1- What is the contact of the guy on Mountain Project that manufacture that "bolt remover".
2- You are drilling the hole so it matches the new, but what if the current hole already is the correct size for the new bolt?
You must always go bigger unless using a glue in type.
cleatis, go to this thread www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116158404/yet-another-bolt-remover?page=6#ForumMessage-118654460
Much of the older hardware (in general; area dependent) is going to be smaller, as that's what they had back then so, it's pretty easy to go up a size. You can see how much effort rebolters go through to remove old bolts and this in order to reuse the same hole but, as a very last resort, one can patch the hole with special putty, mixed with rock dust and this to match the local rock. If done right it's practically (or is) unnoticeable. Then just drill a new hole next to the old one with the right size. But, as I said, that's a last resort, as one can usually go up a size. Always getting the old bolt out without it breaking off inside, well that's another story and usually all you do at that point is patch it and drill anew.
Man!!! i like that hammer!
Try using 2 nuts tightened on the threads so you can spin the bolt to the left. That's how I remove studs in the automotive tech world...
Do yall paper rock scissors to see who takes the first whipper on it for a test?
What drill are you using? And do you recommend it?
Milwaukee 2712. Great drill. I have been using it for 4 years, installed hundreds of bolts, no issues yet. -Bobby
@@HowNOT2 do you have a Venmo thanks for making great videos I appreciate it!
19:45 "Doesn't seem to heavy to carry air." Tell that again to scuba divers ;)
❤❤
fun day on the face
Its a para-cord cluster fuck (inevitable) but everything I use is always attached to me.
you should just have a short but semi loose rope that you can attach the tool back onto when your using it so in case you drop it you'll still have it but it wont impede on working or range of motion especially since most of your tools are already hooked with biners
"It's the American Safe Climbing Association...of America!"
Bobbies the fuckin man!
5:58 squirtle use water gun.
Why not just have the tools tied off, no need to keep clipping, unclipping all the time..... should be possible? Or just not practical? Where does he keep the coffee?
My nerves found the lack of tethers distracting.
Why not use torque specs?
ACDelco Tools ARM601-4 Digital
Torque Wrench
www.amazon.com/dp/B0081AQDIY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_S-9MEbF2N838H
We figure out how much torque we need at home and it is easily replicable when we are hanging there and don't want to carry any more than need be. We will be doing torque videos soon.
Thank you for your response🙏
I am looking forward to those videos 🌄 I'm grateful for your time spent ⌚
There is precisely zero chance I could do this without dropping tools to the ground.
Or the tiny pieces of the bolts that can’t be attached to anything lol right down the side of the cliff
Offset ring spanner
this guy is like the Jamie Hyneman of rock climbing
try a socket wrench so you stop beating your knuckles even though it has more risk of dropping some have a push button that locks the socket on the ratchet
A toy water gun might be useful?😅
I'm not sure how much that fancy wrench costs, but we remove wedge anchors with a $5 pipe wrench using the same principle. In case any of you dirt bags need to remove a wedge anchor. just a thought.
2:40 yes please just shut up..... poor guy waiting to finish and go home.......