Why are these marketed to rock climbers???

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  • Опубліковано 3 січ 2023
  • Climbtech Removable Bolts are fancy and work great and broke super good enough, but we aren't sure if they have a ton of value for rock climbers. I'm sure there is the niche case where they can help, please comment where you find them useful or if you have them. According to CT's manual 1/2" RBs are not meant for catching falls, but the 3/4" and 1" RBs are. Kevin Kent donated these two bolts and we broke them with Steve Glotfelty, Bobby Hutton and Andrea Nichole in nowhwereville Nevada in limestone rock.
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    See Climbtechs commercial at • ClimbTech Co Founder F...
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    Intro
    00:38 About the bolt
    06:46 Using the bolt
    09:04 Test 1
    09:59 Test 2
    11:56 Bobby's thoughts

КОМЕНТАРІ • 187

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  Рік тому +10

    Blog: www.hownot2.com/post/climb-tech-removable-bolt.
    See the crazy amount of data we have on Book of Numbers in Bolting Bible www.hownot2.com/post/bolting-bible-numbers
    Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

  • @jordankatz4268
    @jordankatz4268 Рік тому +205

    Very expensive, but really useful for bolting on very overhanging terrain. Drill a quick shallow hole for the RB to hold body weight and then use as a directional while drilling and placing a real bolt. Cam in a crack is better, but often not an option. If you bolt in a crag like the Red River Gorge with lots of steepness, these are essential for developing. I'd never use them for climbing though, just bolting.

    • @MPHshoots
      @MPHshoots Рік тому +3

      Great information dude!

    • @matheushorstmann1816
      @matheushorstmann1816 Рік тому

      these could be useful in particular situations, like in aid in an instalation of some sort, like, construction and you could use later again in another place.. but as in Bobby´s thoughts, he mentioned "hidden" and, in climbing and for a safety device in general, you don't want them to be hidden.

  • @dp1381
    @dp1381 Рік тому +29

    I build cliff houses in the RRG Kentucky and these have been very useful for our crew. We have to install a variety of very large rock anchors (up to 24" deep and 1.25" diameter) and these removabolts are invaluable for work positioning. It's nice to be able to remove them easily and leave behind only a small hole.

  • @niezbo
    @niezbo Рік тому +72

    Honestly for what are you doing, it's crazy you have only around 130k subs.
    The amount of work and effort you have put, even for such a niche "discipline", you should have at least 500k at this point.
    You're doing a great job, never stop! :)

    • @AM-yj5yc
      @AM-yj5yc Рік тому +3

      If it's at all useful to note, I think the algorithm is picking this up better; I have done indoor climbing only once... when I was 11... twenty five years ago, and yet I got suggested this repeatedly, probably due to general science-ey stuff I watch as well as occasional interest in other outdoorsey stuff.
      I love watching this even thoigh I have zero clue about 97% of what is being discussed. As with many other things I've learned of here, that is an improvement over the 100% when I started.

    • @pikasnipe1
      @pikasnipe1 Рік тому +2

      @@AM-yj5yc tbh that device you have is listening.

    • @JustMe-999a
      @JustMe-999a Рік тому

      Rock climbing isn't a huge sport. The audience is somewhat limited

  • @zaraspook0
    @zaraspook0 Рік тому +49

    Pretty sure his word salad in the commercial was "new routing" which is definitely the use in climbing applications. Pretty handy for directionals while bolting steep stuff in some rock. I have seen one pop while bolting on lead but that was due to rock quality, the limestone around the hole blew off around the placement... the second RB held the fall though.

  • @carlswenson5403
    @carlswenson5403 Рік тому +20

    I worked at a mine, we used these frequently for fall protection. Seemed super good enough to me but I never fell on one. Cordless hammer drill punched out the holes pretty well as long as youre using a decent carbide tipped bit.

  • @iancavanaugh9898
    @iancavanaugh9898 Рік тому +11

    I have the 1/2” and use them all the time. Love them but for the right situation. I use them mostly while route developing. When on super steep or roof routes they are crucial. Place a bolt, shallow hole, RB, the drill the next bolt. Repeat. Also I’ve used as bolt placement test when unsure where the bolt should be. Easy to drill a shallow hole and see if it’s right. If it is drill deeper and add bolt, if not the shallow hole is easy to patch: the last place I’ve used them is in one of our bouldering areas that is regularly flooded several times a year. For high balls or even tr/lead. With the amount of water the area sees it doesn’t make sense to put a bolt as they would be underwater for half the year, even SS. So we drill a hole, use these for TR rehearsal or even lead on routes/problems. Definitely not the end all be all but a great tool to have when the situation calls for

  • @nate2838
    @nate2838 Рік тому +9

    Your product testing videos are great for helping bridge the gap between technical knowledge and what it means to application.
    There are far too many variables in life to ALWAYS stick to the "rules" of doing things. These videos help people understand the products, uses, and limitations better so in the unfortunate event "Mr Murphy" (murphy's law) decides to pay a visit and we find ourselves in a situation where there are no options that fit the rules, we have a better chance of using what is available to stay safe and get home safe.
    As a professional arborist climber I greatly value your videos, thank you for the time, energy, and cost you and your crew put into these videos.

  • @undaware
    @undaware Рік тому +31

    I used to use one as a ground anchor for light belayers. Sure I had to drill a hole at ground level but there were no trees at that crag so i went the scofflaw route. And I only needed one.

    • @jordankatz4268
      @jordankatz4268 Рік тому +7

      Use an Edelrid Ohm on the first bolt instead! Designed for that application and easy to use. Way less impact. Drilling a hole to belay is unacceptably high impact and is not a viable solution.

    • @undaware
      @undaware Рік тому +2

      @@jordankatz4268 ...lol everybody looks up at the crag impact boy. I use the ohm now mostly. Effective and annoying on many levels.

  • @kaylajason8917
    @kaylajason8917 Рік тому +12

    We use these at work. I inspect concrete structures, and we have pre-drilled holes already available. We also use rubber plugs to put back in holes once done to prevent water ingress. Saved me a few times. But I can't see where these be handy at all climbing unless someone predrilled hundreds or holes.

  • @calromens5043
    @calromens5043 Рік тому +87

    Ironworker here, just started seeing these used as tie off points in concrete within the past few months. Ironworkers have different fall protection standards than other trades, allowing us to have our tie off at our feet instead of chest level. Wondering how well they would work with a more static catch from an SRL.

    • @slowgold20
      @slowgold20 Рік тому +15

      Are you in the US? If you're following the law, your SRL should have a blast pack in line that limits force "to not more than 2,000 pounds (8.9 kN), with a duration not exceeding 2 milliseconds and any subsequent arresting forces to not more than 1,000 pounds (4.5 kN)." Under osha cfr, anchors need to have a mbs of 5000lbs, making the 1/2" too weak, while the 3/4" one is designed for that load. If your system doesn't have a way to limit the force, none of this matters because you'll get horrible life altering or fatal injuries if you take a 12" static fall. Ouch! I do entertainment rigging and rope access, so I can't speak to rules for ironworkers, but the bottom line is that every employer has a duty to protect workers from all known hazards. Even with a leading edge fall arrest system, there are known hazards involved in taking a 12ft whip even onto systems designed for that force (not to mention rescue complications)--meaning that foot level tie off is always a last resort and you really have to put your foot down about having a solid rescue plan. I generally make a pretty big stink about if I have to "walk the dog", because in almost every circumstance there is a way to do it safer.

    • @Zogg1281
      @Zogg1281 Рік тому +2

      Even anchoring at floor hight in the UK would would be considered last resort. Adding ALL extra safety systems into the system to try to reduce the force of the fall would still have me sweating bullets and looking for ANYTHING else to attach something to, even a strong looking cobweb would be considered!!! Any fall on a system like that is going to hurt and with no extra arrestors in the system is going to leave you learning how to live with mobility problems...... if you're lucky!

    • @appalachianamerican1776
      @appalachianamerican1776 Рік тому +2

      These guys have no understanding of the job we do? How fast above turns to below and the sky is the only thing above our feet most of the time.

    • @slowgold20
      @slowgold20 Рік тому +1

      @@appalachianamerican1776 I've seen first hand how safe and efficient some iron workers are, and how dangerous and headstrong some others are. Whether you are tied in a foot level or on an srl anchored at the top of your upright the reality is that fall protection education is poor across virtually all industries.

    • @ingluv
      @ingluv Рік тому +1

      Electrician. We have used them for temporary overhead tie offs in concrete as well, although I believe we have been using 5/8" with SRL and a shock pack. I try pretty hard not to test my fall-pro at work. (Uncomfortable and too much paperwork involved.) Climbing rocks is a different story. If you aren't falling, you aren't pushing yourself very hard.

  • @mattking3852
    @mattking3852 Рік тому +5

    Great tool for bolting overhanging routes to gain access to the wall to put in real bolts.

  • @dpeltier415
    @dpeltier415 Рік тому +7

    I have found them very useful for steep sport route developing. You only need a shallow hole and the hole doesn't really have to be clean or level, so can drill quickly with a long bit and then swing in and pop them in to get close to the wall. There is a video from Joe kinder showing how you can drill the holes in really subtle places (underneath overlaps) making them invisible afterwards. Other removable bolts like the petzl one need a flat surface for the hanger. (also it's easy to remove the 1/2 inch one with a 3/8 bit if you don't bury it, so no need for a punch)

  • @kdb699292
    @kdb699292 Рік тому +3

    Used these as fall arrest in highrise concrete formwork since they are never loaded its super quick to jump from task to task without needing as many anchors per floor, possibly 1000's per building

  • @-RyN-23
    @-RyN-23 Рік тому +4

    I'm not a climber or caver, I never use ropes or anything that you test in my life, just not my thing but I love your videos testing this stuff, something super cool about it an I like seeing how real world stacks up to corporate ratings so kudos

  • @1920hunter
    @1920hunter 5 місяців тому +1

    I use them for construction projects very regularly. They work well when they are installed on concrete ceilings of high-rises for fall arrest near edges. Also on building exteriors at heights as a secondary anchor point.

  • @2002mitchell
    @2002mitchell Рік тому +3

    I've used one of these before in an industrial fall protection type setting in central Washington. It was installed semi permanently in the ceiling of a small concrete building. There was an auto belay type device attached to it and you would wear a full body harness and clip into it when descending down the tall ladder below it. I was in charge of inspecting it every year and thought it was a clever device but was confused why somebody didn't just install a permanent bolt instead. Cool piece of equipment though, I can see a few practical uses for it. Great video, thanks!

  • @mowgliadventuresnet303
    @mowgliadventuresnet303 Рік тому +3

    Kudos, for answering all those questions!
    I've always been 🧐 curious...

  • @BrokenSofa
    @BrokenSofa Рік тому +2

    Bros you're building towards legend status in the climbing community with the work you're doing. Trail blazers!

  • @bobbypatton4903
    @bobbypatton4903 Рік тому +3

    I have used these doing first ascents in caves. I truly appreciate you testing them and they are as strong as they look!

    • @bobbypatton4903
      @bobbypatton4903 Рік тому +3

      I just wish they came in 3/8th!

    • @iancavanaugh9898
      @iancavanaugh9898 Рік тому

      @@bobbypatton4903you can find them every once in a while, they used to make them when they first came out.

  • @iancavanaugh9898
    @iancavanaugh9898 Рік тому +3

    They also used to make a 3/8” one that I know several people have and love for new routing but stopped making those long time ago

  • @craglevcarboncapture
    @craglevcarboncapture Рік тому +11

    I've used these a lot in rope access geophysics work and route development, never whipped on one. I either use 2x 1/2" equalized as a main anchor (4x for RA) or a single 1", depending on how big of a bit I have on me. The 1/2'ers are good for a quick deviation or aid point that's easy to fill later, so they tend to be used a lot for futuristic route development in caves. My team and I've also used them for work on a massive double curvature arch dam with around 30' of overhang.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +6

      Rad! thanks for sharing.

    • @craglevcarboncapture
      @craglevcarboncapture Рік тому

      @@HowNOT2 Also, I like the idea of using titen bolts as temp bolts when drilling in front of you like Bobby shows in the vid. The cool thing about RB's is that once the hole is drilled/cleaned and you have enough practice, you can set them like a cam so you can aid a smooth roof and save a lot of arm strength when new routing. I'll admit they're somewhat niche, but they can be a really valuable tool if you're used to them.

  • @rockyraddad334
    @rockyraddad334 Рік тому +2

    Great content & thanks for posting. 2nd what Ryan and Bobby said about concrete screws. A big fan, I use 3/8 concrete screws, they fit into a 1/2 Fixe hanger perfectly. Nice and beefy.

  • @willpuchalsky8900
    @willpuchalsky8900 Рік тому +1

    I don't climb but love watching the videos. Great stuff !

  • @9D9
    @9D9 Рік тому +1

    i have never been rock climbing but i still watch all your videos

  • @ArthurCammers
    @ArthurCammers Рік тому +6

    Yes, I whipped on CT 1/2" RB while putting up a new route. The piece was my only pro and it kept me off the ground ... probably saved my life.

  • @jackdbur
    @jackdbur Рік тому +1

    Have used those as fall protection anchors at work on a heritage site where the fixed anchors were out of date. Yes the fixed anchors had date tags on them and you couldn't clip to them if they were past due date.

  • @TheBradVision
    @TheBradVision Рік тому

    Have been using 2 of the 1/2" removable bolts for top roping in Chert rock over the past few years. The most difficult part is sometimes removing them, when their are placed to far in the rock then loaded. The company is pretty cool for customer service also. Thanks for testing to their breaking point!

  • @peguezu
    @peguezu Рік тому

    I got few since I was doing Rope Access and Fall Protection work on concrete buildings. When you don’t have anchor points between floors, they are very handy, but you have few backup systems. I have use them for when bolting from the ground up and placing the under roofs while drilling for a bolt/hanger.

  • @brettwebb5615
    @brettwebb5615 Рік тому +1

    I keep seeing comments where people use them on steep routes while bolting... I've always used coach screws (as used in timber) for this (in sandstone) , you slip a removable bolt hanger over it and tension away! .. cheap and easy to remove once your glue-in eyebolts are set and ready to weight... if you're feeling exceptionally brave you just sink 1.5 inch coach screws and then aid on them!

  • @EvanWisheropp
    @EvanWisheropp Рік тому +2

    I have a rack of the 1/2” RBs, most of them given to me as a gift from Ethan Pringle 🥰. I’ve used them hundreds of times as top anchors or directionals while bolting steeply overhung routes (fixed line above). That first day I got them I was aiding ground-up with hooks, micro nuts, and RBs. My hook ripped a big block and I whipped onto the RB, which held. I have had them rip though on occasion. If you set them correctly, you’ll almost always need a hammer and punch to remove them.

  • @andypeters2162
    @andypeters2162 Рік тому

    Thanks for this amazing information I have the perfect use placement for one or two of them.

  • @edmisterman
    @edmisterman Рік тому

    I like how he gives a very fair assessment of the product and company and doesn’t only talk about how terrible it is

  • @wffleirnprductin
    @wffleirnprductin Рік тому +5

    You should compare the static and dynamic breaking strength of super thin glacier cords: Specifically the mammut glacier cord vs the rad line vs the Edelrid rap line (which interestingly claims 2 falls when twinned). it would be interesting to see if the other thin cords can hold such falls!

  • @FalenAnjel2
    @FalenAnjel2 Рік тому

    For brick like buildings I've been using climbing cams for work positioning and placing them into the vent cracks or angle iron between levels. You'll see this if you brick point or doing some sort of masonry repair on buildings with rope access and I find combing gear useful outside of sporty stuff.

  • @jacobowens3539
    @jacobowens3539 Рік тому

    Used these about 8 years ago setting hollow core precast concrete in commercial construction. Super useful when you constantly need to move your tie off point for fall protection. Never fell on one but they seemed good enough. Never would have thought to use them in climbing. Also they get stuck if your hole isn’t deep enough or you set them too close to the bottom.

  • @herranenspearguns
    @herranenspearguns Рік тому +1

    I've used those or something very similar, for temporary fall protection on construction sites . For example when we are running ductwork up a shaft threw multiple floors

  • @ClimbingEasy
    @ClimbingEasy Рік тому +2

    No one should feel bad about climtech and this review. It actually proved they are super good enough, and since they are a niche product the high price is justified for the low production and low need.

  • @jacobdyck3042
    @jacobdyck3042 Рік тому +4

    I actually use these fairly frequently in both rope access and confined spaces, have never seen the commercial before. I actually love them for what I use them for but don't see a practical use for them outside of bolting like the example you used of bobby being unsure about anchor placements. The most frequent use I have for them is to mount 4:1s to the ceiling of a confined space to do rescues over a large obstacle, as it's pretty common to not be allowed to bolt them permanently

  • @derekmarshall7258
    @derekmarshall7258 Рік тому

    I've used 13mm RB on sea cliffs. These were placed to protect unprotected sections ofvtrad routed. Very cool to use.

  • @dominicteresi3835
    @dominicteresi3835 Рік тому +3

    I used them a lot as an ironworker working in concrete elivator pits all 1/2 inch tho so I felt pretty safe on it

  • @joshfehr9035
    @joshfehr9035 Рік тому

    Masonry Contractor here - we use these regularly for temporary tie off points in multi storey building construction👍

  • @bonefishboards
    @bonefishboards Рік тому

    In almost 45 years of climbing, I have never placed a bolt in rock; only in concrete for surfboard shaping racks. Interesting stuff.

  • @teqila831
    @teqila831 Рік тому

    We use the 3/4 inch one for fall protection when we work around open man holes

  • @blackwell78734
    @blackwell78734 Рік тому

    I began using RBs in 2007 for route development on overhanging limestone sport routes.

  • @mickey_rose
    @mickey_rose Рік тому +3

    I’ve seen these used in place of cams while bolting overhanging sport climbs. If the project is difficult enough, then the temporary bolts can be used to project the route to find more optimal bolt placement. I’ve seen up to 4-5 of these placed through a steep bit of rock. I guess to see if the project goes before sinking steel into the rock?

  • @mk2mike
    @mk2mike Рік тому +1

    These would be cool for rope work or rescue/recovery when a temp anchor is necessary to rappel.

  • @mvlad88
    @mvlad88 Рік тому +2

    I used to certify a very similar type of bolt (like 1on1 similar) for a different company. At least in Europe we were only doing EN 795 which is for anchor points. We did some drop tests on a tower on them, but the results were to inconsistent so we ended up marketing it only to the rope access market with a huge warning that said not to take wipers on it, anyway sales were pretty low.

  • @johtso1
    @johtso1 Рік тому +2

    I think he says "it's the most essential piece of gear I've come across for new routing", I guess so you can sit on a bolt after drilling when bolting ground up perhaps?

  • @jonathannorthup5705
    @jonathannorthup5705 Рік тому +1

    Paused at 4 min i think the large anchors would be marketed more towards construction work! I can see these working for a temporary safety wire or tag line 👌

  • @LoveAndClimbing
    @LoveAndClimbing Рік тому

    I've belayed someone using one of these to bolt an overhanging route and it seemed pretty useful for that case. Key word is "one": he had two but only ever found a situation to place one, which seems to be the most common case--he said he has two because he occasionally places a second. You wouldn't need (or want) a full rack of these.
    He was using the 1/2" removable bolts and placing 1/2" wedge bolts. Maybe half the time he was able to use the hole he drilled for the removable bolt, to place the wedge bolt. He used the removable bolts to try out moves and see if the clipping stances made sense.

  • @kadmow
    @kadmow Рік тому +2

    Yes, Industry certification requires a much higher factor of safety than sport use (sport climbers are well into the "super good enough at MBS" - the unions want to x5 everything - including cost of access)
    Are there cams one can pop in a 1/2 inch hole for a more "traditional" pro comparo.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +1

      When I got my SPRAT level 1, i was shocked to see the minimum an anchor needed to be was 12kn. Granted it needs to have more than 1 for redundancy and that anyone is rappeling or has a shock absorber attached to them, but climbers have 2x 20+ kN anchors even if it's one-pitch climbs with no potential of FF2s. I think industrial only wants the equipment to cost 5x more haha.

  • @sambonner1381
    @sambonner1381 Рік тому

    There’s a sport route at an old school crag near me. The last bolt blew and was left out when it was Eventually rebolted so this leaves you with a pretty substantial fall on a hand foot match mantle on a crimp to gain the anchor. This could be protected with this price of gear but is the only route I can think of.

  • @user-zp5rn8uf4u
    @user-zp5rn8uf4u Рік тому

    We have used them for highlines in some canyons during rescues.

  • @austinbilton981
    @austinbilton981 Рік тому

    I used these for fall protection doing bridge construction

  • @niceguy191
    @niceguy191 Рік тому +2

    Lol, the you could tell the rock was loose while drilling for the shear test. Helps emphasize that a bolt is only as good as the rock it's installed in.

  • @IvanMilyakov
    @IvanMilyakov Рік тому +3

    There's a couple popular scrambling routes near my city where someone needs to be rescued almost every weekend. I never witnessed a rescue myself, but along this route there are quite a few drilled holes, covered by plastic plugs. As I understand, they are used by the emergency responders to put similar bolts in and lower the injured person.

    • @cjwaasdorp2478
      @cjwaasdorp2478 Рік тому +1

      Most technical rescue standards (NFPA and ICAR) require a minimum of 20kN and are most commonly set up for shear which makes a mechanical bolt ideal for rescue. I've never seen reusabolts in the rescue setting.

    • @IvanMilyakov
      @IvanMilyakov Рік тому

      @@cjwaasdorp2478 maybe you mean vertical rescue? The routes I've mentioned are just slabs, there's no way to have huge forces. Also, there are no permanent bolts around, and I don't think any trees or stones there are particularly suitable for building anchors. Not quite sure of the hole diameter though, will have to check, maybe they support more sturdy bolts.

    • @cjwaasdorp2478
      @cjwaasdorp2478 Рік тому

      @@IvanMilyakov not really. As a rescue becomes less vertical, you also need more people carrying the litter and attached to it so the entire rescue load gets heavier. 20kN minimum generally applied across the board (esp with NFPA... "Technical" rating is lower at 20kN and doesn't go down from there. It goes go up to 30kN for "general" ratings) If you push minimal gear applications such as alpine/glacier you can push your safety factor down which I think ICAR supports. (Makes sense as under 45deg, you're unloading forces faster than adding ppl to the load due to sine of slope angle being actual force on the line). Horizontal you obv need no rope but if you're steep enough to need a rope, you're steep enough to not half ass the safety factor and therefore usu stick to 20kN minimum for rescue.

  • @Dan.Dan.42
    @Dan.Dan.42 Рік тому +2

    A roofing contractor I've worked with used the 3/4 inch RB for their lifeline. It got stuck and lives under the roof they installed.

  • @Zogg1281
    @Zogg1281 Рік тому

    Yeah, I'd use them but probably more because part of what I used to do was "Industrial" rope access. Having worked building Ropes Course's and working in the outdoor industry gives you some different ideas on how kit can be used. Just with the idea's at the end of the video, the big one popped out as being the "hidden holes" idea, these would give you the ability to set up routes for absolute beginners that can have way more bolts on the route then an experienced climber would need. The bonus would be that the same people would be doing the rigging every time so you could really hide the holes and have almost 0 impact, visually, on a rock face when it isn't in use. Financially wise, the company pays the cheques, not the instructors, so that's not really a problem. I did see a less mechanical version of something like this about 20 years ago with something like a nut connected to some webbing. It would be inserted webbing end first and came in about 7-10 different sizes. It definitely sparked an interest 🤔👍👍👍

  • @jessemorehouse2208
    @jessemorehouse2208 9 місяців тому

    Very reassuring. Thanks for the tests. I think the only practical use is new route development. I'd rather spend some money on a few reusable RBs than throwing concrete screws in the trash every time I check something out.

  • @Mike_VL167
    @Mike_VL167 Рік тому

    We use them in the tech rescue world. Check out the video from Ropes that Rescue where they drill out holes and place RB’s to pre-plan a rescue setup

  • @JoelSchopp
    @JoelSchopp Рік тому +3

    Review showed they were easy to place, relatively easy to remove, and exceeded rated strength in all the tests.
    I've used these for route development and love them. Especially if I'm doing anything ground up, on overhanging terrain, or am unsure of where the bolts should go. I did a ground up 6 pitch route with glue ins. Could not have done it without removable bolts.
    Route development is super niche, and you can develop routes without these. But they make the life of a route developer easier.

  • @agentsmith1573
    @agentsmith1573 Рік тому

    9:42 The professional hole driller's mask :D lmaoooo

  • @Polo1683Official
    @Polo1683Official Рік тому

    Done some ironwork n pipefitting , these would be amazing in basement/warehouses if you only have a stone ceiling or rafters you can slide a cross member with a hole for the gear. Honestly would save dozens of hours on a couple month long job, however you need to have the hole and not everyone wants holes leftover

  • @camcairns2584
    @camcairns2584 Рік тому +1

    Takeaway - a consistent failure mode identified - the wire snaps at the crimp. I wonder if there is merit in repositioning the crimp, using a different material, crimping with less force, elongating or reducing the crimp, using thicker wire, brazing it?

  • @JayCWhiteCloud
    @JayCWhiteCloud 3 місяці тому

    I've used them to lift stone in challenging locations for restoration masonry...

  • @tiktian
    @tiktian Рік тому

    They used to actually make a 3/8 version RB that was popular amongst cavers.

  • @tiborharsch362
    @tiborharsch362 Рік тому

    we use the 20mm for ropeaccess... they feel realy bomber but drilling 2x 20mm holes or 3x 12mm for the coeur i prefer the coeur. onlx use them when i cant place to pull in shear...

  • @SunriseCrawlers
    @SunriseCrawlers Рік тому

    We uses these for safety lines when we are on a swing stage

  • @lizardkeeper100
    @lizardkeeper100 Рік тому +2

    Where I have seen theses used in a weird way was when using a winch for recovery. as the guy was going down the cliff they were anchoring the truck with the winch to the rock with these or something similar. It was a huge truck and I think they placed 4 or 5 in the rock. I never looked down into the clif to see what they were trying to recover. For context I was just on a hike and still have no idea what they were doing other then recovering something.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +2

      Interesting. hadn't heard of that use.

    • @lizardkeeper100
      @lizardkeeper100 Рік тому

      @@HowNOT2 I don't know how common it is I just happened to see someone doing it one day

  • @seldoon_nemar
    @seldoon_nemar Рік тому

    I could see these used in mines. I'm actually going to mention them to another creator who is getting a gold mine open again. it would probably be very helpful to move heavy equipment around. heck, you could use the bigger one and just punch a hole in the roof over a derailment and use a chain fall to lift the cart.

  • @WyomingMtnMan
    @WyomingMtnMan Рік тому

    At first I thought this was "a solution looking for a problem" as far as climbing is concerned.
    But after reading comments there are more people using them climbing than I thought would use them.

  • @franciscoalvarez292
    @franciscoalvarez292 Рік тому

    Used them in rope access for positioning while installing bolts on a dam.

  • @morefreepress
    @morefreepress Рік тому

    Maybe if they came in 3/8ths to use as a position/redirect anchor or tool/bucket hangar when gym setting. Rather then threading an eyebolt you can speedily use this RB.

  • @memeyou241
    @memeyou241 Рік тому

    At the end, Bobby said, " it's pretty nitch”. Lol

  • @daniel9111
    @daniel9111 Рік тому +2

    I remember watching the ad back in the day wondering if you could use five to build a highline anchor😅

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +2

      Totally! People asked me a bunch in the past about this. That's why i was most interested in testing these. Could you imagine 5x 3/4" holes!?

  • @rockiesbouldering
    @rockiesbouldering Рік тому +4

    Yeah - these are useful though not necessary for new routing. 3/8 were once available but no longer - which is a shame as that's the most convenient size (if you drill 3/8 bolts). Really only needed for really overhanging stuff.
    Using concrete screws is another good option as Ryan and Bobby mention. The challenge with this is you need to either use SDSplus adapter to hex and switch bits, or carry a second impact drill rigged with a hex bit.
    Since you are drilling a hole either way - I've had good success drilling a shallow 3/8 pilot hole and gently pounding in a skyhook to use a temporary directional. You can reuse the hole or easily fill it. Saves battery juice too.

  • @lambdalandis
    @lambdalandis Рік тому +3

    I could see this being useful if you needed rope access in a public area where visual impact and accessibility to curious kids with aid climbing gear was a concern.

    • @lambdalandis
      @lambdalandis Рік тому

      Admittedly, this seems very narrow

  • @OwenJones-fd8lp
    @OwenJones-fd8lp Рік тому +10

    Removable bolts are useful for new routing but I think the Petzl ones are better (12mm and 8mm), a similar test with them would be good!

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +9

      We got you.
      ua-cam.com/video/eZ3QVTX75rg/v-deo.html&feature=share

  • @AnonymousOtters
    @AnonymousOtters Рік тому +2

    I've seen several routes in the UK where they are re-using old quarry holes for protection, these seem like they would be a good application if they're the right size.

    • @garethmorgan482
      @garethmorgan482 Рік тому

      The famous shot hole on Masters Edge takes a Tricam 2.5, so it's about 1.25 inches in diameter. I think everything in the Peak is similar, but there may be other quarries with a trad ethic and half-inch holes

    • @RRYACF
      @RRYACF Рік тому

      I was just coming to add that a tricam would do the same job better and cheaper.

  • @tonygotts199
    @tonygotts199 Рік тому

    Can do the same with a 3/8 double expansion anchor. With a 3/8 eye bolt along with two washers and 3/8 nut

  • @Realryancurry
    @Realryancurry Рік тому +1

    Your audio is sounding better! Btw, I’m not into what you do, I just like watching. 👍

  • @DavidRiggs
    @DavidRiggs Рік тому

    Cavers have considered these for use in aid climbing, because they'd save considerable time by eliminating the need to hammer in a wedge anchor, cranking down on the wedge anchor, recovering the hanger, and driving/removing the wedge anchor when done. Plus they'd save weight since you'd - in theory - only need a few RBs, and they could be back-cleaned and reused on the same climb / next pitch.
    Unfortunately the 3/8" versions are no longer available, and 1/2" requires more electrons and time to drill. And unfortunately caves are full of mud, and these seem like they could foul pretty quickly if muddy.

  • @benjaminnevins5211
    @benjaminnevins5211 Рік тому

    LOL I jumped when that rock flew

  • @kingsqueen2180
    @kingsqueen2180 Рік тому

    Not a climber by any means but I am subscribing

  • @ken4ord
    @ken4ord Рік тому

    I have one for rope access work once. For climbing no I would not use. Though they are similar to ball nuts in principal, which I have used ball nuts as pro. I think of ball nuts as psychological pro and they are way easier to place and remove than RB’s. My 2 cents.

  • @morefreepress
    @morefreepress Рік тому +5

    Btw, have you seen Hilti's new Kwik-X Dual Action anchors system? It's basically a threaded glue-in that requires no cleaning/brushing of the hole. Insert the epoxy packet, start threading the appropriate bolt in which breaks the epoxy packet and you're done.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +3

      Thanks for sharing that.

    • @nathanpage9726
      @nathanpage9726 Рік тому +2

      I would LOVE to see you look in to this! Could be a silver bullet type product for new routing!

    • @jackdbur
      @jackdbur Рік тому +1

      Epoxy packet bolts have been used in construction for at least a decade.

  • @danielg8118
    @danielg8118 Рік тому

    I always use triplex for temporary anchors and they're so bomber, a way better option than those expensive and weaker RBS

  • @cragbum87
    @cragbum87 Рік тому

    I wish these were available in 3/8th for work. We have a lot of t nuts and cleaning/fixing stuff on the boulder wall is a hassle sometimes. Slap 2 of those in and I could hang an a harness, get a quick repair or clean in, and be done in a jiff. Rather, I have to pull out a ladder that isn't stable on the pads and creates more of a landing hazard if something went wrong. Not sure if they would work in t nuts but if anyone know of something similar that would for 3/8th, please let me know.

  • @evanlovleymeyers4781
    @evanlovleymeyers4781 Рік тому +2

    How many times can you re-place a titan in same hole and still get full strength? The threads seem like they will slowly enlarge the hole.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Рік тому +2

      Good question. Not recommended by the manufacturer. when testing hangers with 3/8" Titen HD screws in concrete we reused the holes for 4 or 5 tests. That is till hanger failure at 30kn+. So it was a matter of the hole kept getting bigger bc the concrete was failing. My concern would be the bolt unscrewing over time if a hole was re used often.

  • @MrHassancehef
    @MrHassancehef Рік тому

    the "add" is not from 6 years ago but 13.. (and the product is from the late 90's, it was just officialy and his final version launched later), yeah those are arround for a long time, a real game changer for bolting (ground up, some people even use them to put glue in later in the same hole, and also rap bolting), there was no petzl pulse, concrete screw or fixe triplex, for sure with 2023 eyes, it doesn't look as sexy, but back in the day, I remember watching this video ans really desired them (but it was too expensive for me in europe...).

  • @Davidadventures
    @Davidadventures Рік тому

    These could be the answer to additional protection on Snake Dike.

  • @youngheffeh5691
    @youngheffeh5691 Рік тому

    homie was def drinking in that commercial

  • @FAZE9NINE
    @FAZE9NINE Рік тому +1

    First thing that came to my mind , what if you drill at an angle to stop shearing and do a wipper on it?

    • @forresthsu582
      @forresthsu582 Рік тому

      Then you are effectively placing the piece in a thin flake, with the front of the hole much more likely to explode.

  • @pierreolsson588
    @pierreolsson588 Рік тому

    Petzl removable bolts with hanger is way better for rope access work. These I think are best for new routing in extreme steep terrain.

  • @cgriggsiv
    @cgriggsiv Рік тому

    The only thing I can think of because I'm not a rock climber is if there was one on each end of a hammock if you are hiking or bike packing some of the Arizona trails where there are no trees other than that you're going back to the ground as usual with a tent
    It is plausible to use that with it not sure exactly how but it's plausible

  • @andreylittle8270
    @andreylittle8270 Рік тому

    Is that the new BPL plug?? 👀👀 definitely could take a whip and it expands with more tension 😫😫

  • @TTCS
    @TTCS Рік тому

    Try redhead construction bolts they even have removable bolts

  • @jamesnurgle6368
    @jamesnurgle6368 Рік тому

    I did see a video testing top rope loads to show that they could actually be really high, can't find it though. Hell, might even have been here and I just misunderstood it XD

  • @bandana_girl6507
    @bandana_girl6507 Рік тому +1

    It seems like it might be nice for while you're replacing bolts or in a situation where someone might vandalize bolts *stares at Shawn Snyder*