Great video! Thank you Bobby For taking care of our safety!!! I am from the P-Ville area and have used those bolts many times. I really appreciate your hard work and dedication to all climbers safety. Bobby, you should contact the guys down in Joshua Tree that specialize in bolt removal and replacement. They have made/engineered, some incredible specialized tools that help with the bolt removal process.
Try wrapping a piece of tape around the drill bit at the point you’re aiming for using one of the bolts as a guide. When you reach the tape you know you’re deep enough 👍🏻
Just some tips: bolts (mechanical anchors) always have a torque spec to torque down the anchors for optimal grip. Too loose and he anchor can come undone over time, too tight and the bolt or thread gets compromised (although not likely on a 1/2” bolt). Use a torque wrench for this, it also makes installing easier because of the ratcheting action. Love your detailed video’s about bolts, strength, lines and all the other stuff. Even though I never climbed or used this kind of gear in my life. Kind regards, fan from The NETHERLANDS
he covers this in other videos and recommends getting a feel for the amount of perceived force to torque at home so you dont have to carry a heavy and delicate torque wrench to the bolt.
We are going to do a lot of testing in over/under torquing in BoltBusters soon! I know the recommended specs are going to produce the best results but I like to know the red zone of danger in both directions.
With rock dust and particle fragments, a torque wrench in this application can be misleading or a downfall as well. As always approach these situations with both eyes open. You may get a correct torque reading, but one drastic pull to the anchor may reposition it or initiate small fracture in rock to loosen. And there are correct techniques to get a “good” reading with a torque wrench as well. Just saying. unlike in construction trades, anchor bolts in this situation may have merit being filled with glue on “suspect situations”. Wouldn’t necessarily need to be bomb proof glue - metely to fill the void and prevent any “shifting” of the materials.
a couple of recommendations: - wear gloves, even the lighter stretchy gloves with a grip palm are better than nothing when you're dragging your knuckles or err with the hammer - if you're not using the depth gauge/stop on the drill (most of us don't) use some tape on the drill bit and/or blow tube to gauge depth - when replacing a two/multi-bolt anchor you can clip one or more of the unused old bolts initially (no need for king swing potential) and then switch to the first new bolt as always, props to greg/asca for helping to make this all happen...
I wonder if I’ve ever climbed on bolts you guys installed. Probably not, but I have to think that the more I climb, and the closer I get to California and iconic routes, the chances will go up. So thanks in advance!
Another thing people can do to help out with rebolting efforts is to report sketchy bolts online. Badbolts.com is a good place to catalog these, and it's used extensively in the Red River Gorge, but I haven't seen it used in that many other places.
@@davidsimpson3885 actually I'm an electrition and I place a lot of glue in and wedge ancors in concrete where ever fire proof mounting for cable cannals is needed and when you drill like 100 holes in a day even a little less work at each hole is nice to have
@@jsl2phdx would deffo trust a tradesman more than most of these guys changing or placing bolts, just cos we know what to look out for, and having done it day in day out for years.
Nice thank you lots iv worked construction fir 20 years and never learn the right way to take out bolts much love !! Maybe good idea to do a test on strength to those old hangers they looked pretty aged
You can use a round tube to make more leverage, inserting the chiller into it. It’s años idea. I use this trick, and i love the results. It’s a 50cm of strong tube. When i rebolting, the height, isn’t my priority. Try to use, is efficient.
interesting vid. im terrified of heights...well not heights, but skydiving and anything hanging off the side of a perfectly good mountain or plain ROFL. SUbscribed for a while now I like taking in information just because. Cool channel man👍
One suggestion for those not beeing a fan of the canned air, I recently bought some can I can refill with my bike pump to 10 bar and is usuall used for spraying any liquids. So you could also fill one to spray water if you would like to. The one I got is from a brand called hvg and you can replace all the individual parts. It holds the same pressure, so it should last the same time.
If you are allowed a power tool, hitting the tongue of tuning fork or wedge with the rotohammer may just vibrate the bolt loose. Obviously not to drill a hole, just vibrate, using a spade bit or old drill bit.
Hung Lo Exactly my point. Worth a try. I don’t really think their intention was to be vibration resistant to the speed/force of a percussive hammer. (more likely resistant to oscillation like a clock pendulum- slow & rhythmic) Also, my point was to be using the wedge in conjunction. like lockpicking with a high frequency you have moments when everything is aligned to be loosest, so the wedge helps to drive the bolt out. Especially with the size of hand hammer in the vid - Another 5oz heavier makes all the difference, but yes there are other factors to consider when done in this environment as well.
Hung Lo I bring this technique up because we use similar bolts for anchors on high rise rails for elevator shafts - and sometimes in construction things don’t align the way they should....
@@chrissonnenschein6634 Oh that was an interesting read. I wasn't trying to say that you were wrong or anything. Thanks for the info and have a good one.
Good Question. Any bolt that is non stainless will continue to rust until it is unsafe. The rustier it is the harder it is to remove in one piece and reuse the hole. You can't tell how damaged by rust the bolt in the hole is without removing it. Split shafts like the bolts in this video are considered a priority for replacement bc they can break during installation leaving a bolt that will break under body weight. There was a fatality in Bishop bc of one of these bolts. I have had 3 or 4 fail at shockingly low forces during removal. -Bobby
There is a range between tight and loose that you have to find on those 5 piece bolts to install them probably. Super Finicky bolts. i no longer install them. -Bobby
Aw, c'mon Christian! Are you being serious? If you can cite one case of where expansion of a relatively small volume of ice trapped behind the hanger exerted enough force to extract a properly installed steel expansion anchor, I will buy you a steak dinner and apologize publicly for being wrong. Granted, expansion of ice is a powerful force, no doubt, and many of the cracks and flakes we climb on may have been initiated at some time in the past by expansion of ice trapped within the rock with no place else to go unless the rock itself gives. The minor volume of water that could possibly be trapped behind/under a bolt hanger would simply flow out from behind it as the water freezes. If you could instantaneously 'shock-freeze' the water so all the expansion of the ice happened in a moment, maybe. And that's a soft, polite maybe.
@@markpell8979 it was an honest question. I assume the rebolters out there would know more than I do about bolts. I can’t cite anything, except the anecdotal evidence of ~50 year-old split shaft bolts I’ve seen that were sticking out of the rock at least an inch. They were pretty rusty with paper thin hangers. Just asking if anyone else knew anything.
@@xchinvanderlinden Turns out I can help you with that. Rawl split-shanks are/were 'contraction' anchors that hold position in the hole using spring tension. Kind of like a springy angle piton but designed to work in a cylindrical hole. As such, they are always trying to eject themselves as the rock and metal, having different thermal coefficients of material expansion, respond to daily temperature cycles and changing weather. (Yes, admittedly, even ice.) This is the main reason besides actual climbing-induced loads that pitons can also work themselves loose and possibly become unreliable, mainly against pullout forces. There are concentrated stresses where the edges of pitons or the bowed-out split shanks on Rawl contraction bolts slowly wear and break the rock at their contacts with the walls of the hole through this thermal cycling. Surface corrosion/oxidation of the steel plays into this too and in time pitons and contraction anchors tend to loosen on their own from decreased grip at the limited points of contact. This is somewhat analagous to the nails in the planking on your deck working their way upward until the heads stick out and stub your toes. Apologies if I insulted you earlier, and I hope this was helpful!
@@xchinvanderlinden That would be fine with me, let me know if your travels ever bring you to Dallas/Fort Worth. My friends and I have a great little private sport climbing area nearby that you'd probably enjoy.
You need some real tools boys. I pull concrete anchors all the time and this is much more work than it needs to be. Take a pry bar with a slot of your size then beat it on and pry it out. Bigger hammer too and better wedges. Tools make a huge difference. There are also slide hammers that will yank those out EZ with the combination of the lot. Good hammer drill. Same one I have. Who told you to snug up the wedge on the bolt before installation? That is incorrect. You want it loose all the way down. It should tap down EZ. You don't want to damage the walls of the hole on the way down. Also you should be using a torque wrench...
I would highly recommend wearing safety glasses while doing this. Especially when using a hammer on a chisel. If the harden steel breaks while hitting it it can have enough speed to go through clothing and skin. I have seen it happen to fellow metal workers.
You can cut an old worn off drill bit (with a bandsaw or angle grinder), then weld the prying "fork" to that so it can attach in the drill. The hammer drill has a switch so that you can disable the spinning action and just have the hammer. It should work much better to get under those old bolts-- but you'll need some extra batteries.
Ur hammerdrill came with a little stick that is a depth gauge that goes in the little square hole on the handle and the big red button lets you move it in and out
It is ideal to reuse the holes. If good bolts are put in then we don't have to replace them in our lifetime and our crags won't look like swiss cheese in 200 years haha
There are many types of devices and tools to remove various types of bolts. Bobby has one of these, it's amazing, check it out: www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116158404/yet-another-bolt-remover
@@HowNOT2 I have only used them on concrete, but they pull out wedge and sleeve anchors like butter. For bigger stuff you use a porta-power with though bore cylinder. Its a lot of weight, but nothing pulls them easier.
You mind posting a link of the product you are thinking of? "forks for Sds hammers". Just so we are on the same page. i have never seen a comercial product, just sds chisels with a groove machined in them. For wedge bolts we use a custom puller with ball thread. 2 lbs. It will break 3/8" bolts if you aren't careful.
@@HowNOT2 i have 3 of them, they are identical to a pickle fork. They came a rotary hammer I bought used, so I have no idea where they came from sadly.
I'm pretty sure those type of bolts are not stainless anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/products/mechanical-anchors/sleeve-anchors/power-boltplus.php (Zinc plated)
8:43 That "compressed air" is actually a can of solvents. Not too bad if you're using it outdoors, but some people use it indoors to clean computers as if it actually is air
Uh yeah you do not know what you are doing.... that's obvious....I will never climb on what someone else installed.....I do not want my life in the hands of just anyone.... have you ever watched a video of someone splitting stone with feathers and wedges.... these bolts are feathers and wedges ... you would be well advised to learn about those things.... to little torque = bad to much torque = bad .....bolts torque recommended changes with the type of stone size distance between holes etc.... learn the right way which this is not
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
Nice to see someone tying a knot into their Grigri’s rope (13:03) and not trusting it to work in all situations.
Great video! Thank you Bobby For taking care of our safety!!! I am from the P-Ville area and have used those bolts many times. I really appreciate your hard work and dedication to all climbers safety.
Bobby, you should contact the guys down in Joshua Tree that specialize in bolt removal and replacement. They have made/engineered, some incredible specialized tools that help with the bolt removal process.
Thats quality TV over here... Looking forward to Bobby removing more bolts and rebolting.
Though I don't live there currently, I am from Placerville and I appreciate Bobby's contributions to the local crags!
Try wrapping a piece of tape around the drill bit at the point you’re aiming for using one of the bolts as a guide. When you reach the tape you know you’re deep enough 👍🏻
Just some tips: bolts (mechanical anchors) always have a torque spec to torque down the anchors for optimal grip. Too loose and he anchor can come undone over time, too tight and the bolt or thread gets compromised (although not likely on a 1/2” bolt). Use a torque wrench for this, it also makes installing easier because of the ratcheting action. Love your detailed video’s about bolts, strength, lines and all the other stuff. Even though I never climbed or used this kind of gear in my life. Kind regards, fan from The NETHERLANDS
he covers this in other videos and recommends getting a feel for the amount of perceived force to torque at home so you dont have to carry a heavy and delicate torque wrench to the bolt.
We are going to do a lot of testing in over/under torquing in BoltBusters soon! I know the recommended specs are going to produce the best results but I like to know the red zone of danger in both directions.
@@HowNOT2 Husky sells a nice one for about $65
With rock dust and particle fragments, a torque wrench in this application can be misleading or a downfall as well. As always approach these situations with both eyes open. You may get a correct torque reading, but one drastic pull to the anchor may reposition it or initiate small fracture in rock to loosen. And there are correct techniques to get a “good” reading with a torque wrench as well. Just saying. unlike in construction trades, anchor bolts in this situation may have merit being filled with glue on “suspect situations”. Wouldn’t necessarily need to be bomb proof glue - metely to fill the void and prevent any “shifting” of the materials.
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE That would be very interesting to see. Again thank you for the amazing content.
This is really helpful, I hate shitty bolts and this is probably the best resource for seeing how to remove different types of bolts
a couple of recommendations:
- wear gloves, even the lighter stretchy gloves with a grip palm are better than nothing when you're dragging your knuckles or err with the hammer
- if you're not using the depth gauge/stop on the drill (most of us don't) use some tape on the drill bit and/or blow tube to gauge depth
- when replacing a two/multi-bolt anchor you can clip one or more of the unused old bolts initially (no need for king swing potential) and then switch to the first new bolt
as always, props to greg/asca for helping to make this all happen...
Awsome ! finally informative and reallife video of Bolt removal.
Looking forward for more videos especially expending and glue in bolt removal !
Hey thanks Bobby. I'll be looking for those fresh bolts this spring when climbing at Sugarloaf.
Bobby you are awesome, thank you for your commitment to make mountains safer for all of us
Good stuff! Always fun to get out rebolting with Bobby.
Haha I saw those bolts a couple weeks ago and I was like "damn those look like solid bolts"
yeah i thought the same thing when watching this, all they've got on them is surface rust, they look fine to me
I like it how Ryan had already noticed the hole was too shallow for the bolt and elegantly showed Bob before a mistake was made!
It can easily happen, and it cannot easily be fixed haha.
I wonder if I’ve ever climbed on bolts you guys installed. Probably not, but I have to think that the more I climb, and the closer I get to California and iconic routes, the chances will go up. So thanks in advance!
TBH im not remotely interested in high lining and yet I have watched well over 40 of your videos in the past week, keep it up
Another thing people can do to help out with rebolting efforts is to report sketchy bolts online. Badbolts.com is a good place to catalog these, and it's used extensively in the Red River Gorge, but I haven't seen it used in that many other places.
Nice Bobby and Ryan
An easy thing to do to make sure the bolt hole is deep enough is to put tape on the drill bit where you can stop to drill before you go out
lol, said the same thing, then went through the coments, guessing you're a tradesman.
@@davidsimpson3885 actually I'm an electrition and I place a lot of glue in and wedge ancors in concrete where ever fire proof mounting for cable cannals is needed and when you drill like 100 holes in a day even a little less work at each hole is nice to have
@@jsl2phdx would deffo trust a tradesman more than most of these guys changing or placing bolts, just cos we know what to look out for, and having done it day in day out for years.
use a single wrap of tape around the bit to set the depths for holes
Awesome! really cool content, and thanks for doing all that important work
Nice thank you lots iv worked construction fir 20 years and never learn the right way to take out bolts much love !! Maybe good idea to do a test on strength to those old hangers they looked pretty aged
great video
You can use a round tube to make more leverage, inserting the chiller into it.
It’s años idea. I use this trick, and i love the results.
It’s a 50cm of strong tube. When i rebolting, the height, isn’t my priority.
Try to use, is efficient.
interesting vid. im terrified of heights...well not heights, but skydiving and anything hanging off the side of a perfectly good mountain or plain ROFL. SUbscribed for a while now I like taking in information just because. Cool channel man👍
Go Bobby!
Thank you, well explained ❤️👍
There is a depth finder built into most drills. Also USE A TORQUE WRENCH. You cannot ensure they are installed properly without torquing then to spec.
Very interesting video, do you have any knowledge about how tight they need to be or if using a torque wrench is recommended?
One suggestion for those not beeing a fan of the canned air, I recently bought some can I can refill with my bike pump to 10 bar and is usuall used for spraying any liquids. So you could also fill one to spray water if you would like to.
The one I got is from a brand called hvg and you can replace all the individual parts. It holds the same pressure, so it should last the same time.
7:39...finely filed nail for scooping up Columbian rock dust?
7:33 "That's what she said".... haha
For Ryan so loved the world of climbing that sent his only begotten bolt so that he that wippeth should not perish but live to climb another day
Question: how bad of an idea would it be to use a carpenters hammer as a tuning fork
If you are allowed a power tool, hitting the tongue of tuning fork or wedge with the rotohammer may just vibrate the bolt loose. Obviously not to drill a hole, just vibrate, using a spade bit or old drill bit.
These bolts are made to be vibration resistant. Don't know what to extent they are though.
Hung Lo Exactly my point. Worth a try. I don’t really think their intention was to be vibration resistant to the speed/force of a percussive hammer. (more likely resistant to oscillation like a clock pendulum- slow & rhythmic) Also, my point was to be using the wedge in conjunction. like lockpicking with a high frequency you have moments when everything is aligned to be loosest, so the wedge helps to drive the bolt out. Especially with the size of hand hammer in the vid - Another 5oz heavier makes all the difference, but yes there are other factors to consider when done in this environment as well.
Hung Lo I bring this technique up because we use similar bolts for anchors on high rise rails for elevator shafts - and sometimes in construction things don’t align the way they should....
@@chrissonnenschein6634 Oh that was an interesting read. I wasn't trying to say that you were wrong or anything. Thanks for the info and have a good one.
Hung Lo Nope didn’t really think you were, but with simple text, only clarifying the points..before someone else would I guess.. Likewise, take care!
They make fork attatchments fornur hammer drill
Intention to inform: You could take a cordless 18V anglegrinder with you and speed the work up 10X.
Why hassle with chisel and hammer?
Because the intent is to reuse the hole and not leave a cut off bolt behind and have to drill a new hole.
Exactly what makes the old bolt require replacement? The little bit of surface rust doesn't appear to be cause for concern, does it?
Good Question. Any bolt that is non stainless will continue to rust until it is unsafe. The rustier it is the harder it is to remove in one piece and reuse the hole. You can't tell how damaged by rust the bolt in the hole is without removing it. Split shafts like the bolts in this video are considered a priority for replacement bc they can break during installation leaving a bolt that will break under body weight. There was a fatality in Bishop bc of one of these bolts. I have had 3 or 4 fail at shockingly low forces during removal. -Bobby
Lovely content as always! What’s the reason behind tightening down the bolt before pounding it into the hole?
There is a range between tight and loose that you have to find on those 5 piece bolts to install them probably. Super Finicky bolts. i no longer install them. -Bobby
good stuff
thanks!
Cut down the handle on some flat sided pickle forks to lighten them and use those.
Are there considerations made for ice forming behind the bolt? I’ve seen bolts here pushed out of the rock, likely due to ice.
Aw, c'mon Christian! Are you being serious? If you can cite one case of where expansion of a relatively small volume of ice trapped behind the hanger exerted enough force to extract a properly installed steel expansion anchor, I will buy you a steak dinner and apologize publicly for being wrong. Granted, expansion of ice is a powerful force, no doubt, and many of the cracks and flakes we climb on may have been initiated at some time in the past by expansion of ice trapped within the rock with no place else to go unless the rock itself gives. The minor volume of water that could possibly be trapped behind/under a bolt hanger would simply flow out from behind it as the water freezes. If you could instantaneously 'shock-freeze' the water so all the expansion of the ice happened in a moment, maybe. And that's a soft, polite maybe.
@@markpell8979 it was an honest question. I assume the rebolters out there would know more than I do about bolts.
I can’t cite anything, except the anecdotal evidence of ~50 year-old split shaft bolts I’ve seen that were sticking out of the rock at least an inch. They were pretty rusty with paper thin hangers.
Just asking if anyone else knew anything.
@@xchinvanderlinden Turns out I can help you with that. Rawl split-shanks are/were 'contraction' anchors that hold position in the hole using spring tension. Kind of like a springy angle piton but designed to work in a cylindrical hole. As such, they are always trying to eject themselves as the rock and metal, having different thermal coefficients of material expansion, respond to daily temperature cycles and changing weather. (Yes, admittedly, even ice.) This is the main reason besides actual climbing-induced loads that pitons can also work themselves loose and possibly become unreliable, mainly against pullout forces. There are concentrated stresses where the edges of pitons or the bowed-out split shanks on Rawl contraction bolts slowly wear and break the rock at their contacts with the walls of the hole through this thermal cycling. Surface corrosion/oxidation of the steel plays into this too and in time pitons and contraction anchors tend to loosen on their own from decreased grip at the limited points of contact. This is somewhat analagous to the nails in the planking on your deck working their way upward until the heads stick out and stub your toes. Apologies if I insulted you earlier, and I hope this was helpful!
@@markpell8979 maybe we should buy each other that steak dinner 😄
@@xchinvanderlinden That would be fine with me, let me know if your travels ever bring you to Dallas/Fort Worth. My friends and I have a great little private sport climbing area nearby that you'd probably enjoy.
need a bike vale on the car to cut costs down re pump it?
Do you know when these bolts were placed? Also, what is the point of the chains in this case?
Edit: I suppose this is a rappel anchor?
Silly question but why not use an angle grinder and just cut off the bolt head, and drill another hole nearby?
You need some real tools boys. I pull concrete anchors all the time and this is much more work than it needs to be. Take a pry bar with a slot of your size then beat it on and pry it out. Bigger hammer too and better wedges. Tools make a huge difference. There are also slide hammers that will yank those out EZ with the combination of the lot. Good hammer drill. Same one I have.
Who told you to snug up the wedge on the bolt before installation? That is incorrect. You want it loose all the way down. It should tap down EZ. You don't want to damage the walls of the hole on the way down. Also you should be using a torque wrench...
I would highly recommend wearing safety glasses while doing this. Especially when using a hammer on a chisel. If the harden steel breaks while hitting it it can have enough speed to go through clothing and skin. I have seen it happen to fellow metal workers.
Bobby should really grind off the mushrooming on his tools from the hammer for safety
How many bolts have he done where they were yo short now ,take those shades off please
I wonder if you could get an attachment for the hammer drill to do the wedging?
You can cut an old worn off drill bit (with a bandsaw or angle grinder), then weld the prying "fork" to that so it can attach in the drill. The hammer drill has a switch so that you can disable the spinning action and just have the hammer. It should work much better to get under those old bolts-- but you'll need some extra batteries.
A bigger hanger would make both removing an adding bolts much faster. More impact force.
Not that a comment on a 1 year old video makes a difference.
Try using a real hammer-- it will go much easier for you. That lil thing your using is for jewelry ..
Would it be better to not skip sizes, so the next round of rebolting in 20-30 years is easier? ie: going 1/4" to 3'8" instead of 1/2"?
Ur hammerdrill came with a little stick that is a depth gauge that goes in the little square hole on the handle and the big red button lets you move it in and out
3/8” bolts not 1/2”.
that's cool, but I still prefer my cordless Milwaukee disc.
However your process does remove the previous bolt and reuse the hole.
It is ideal to reuse the holes. If good bolts are put in then we don't have to replace them in our lifetime and our crags won't look like swiss cheese in 200 years haha
Do you use a tuning fork to remove other types of bolts, or just split shaft?
They work best for split shafts. You need separate tricks for each kind of bolt. Check out the bolting bible for an overview.
There are many types of devices and tools to remove various types of bolts. Bobby has one of these, it's amazing, check it out: www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116158404/yet-another-bolt-remover
when you see bobby hammer the wedge he holds the tool. you don't. are you just trying to wack it of the edge?
You can get forks for sds hammers.
Have you had any luck using those to pry bolts out? I always thought it looked like a nice idea, but not terribly practical. -Bobby
@@HowNOT2
I have only used them on concrete, but they pull out wedge and sleeve anchors like butter. For bigger stuff you use a porta-power with though bore cylinder. Its a lot of weight, but nothing pulls them easier.
You mind posting a link of the product you are thinking of? "forks for Sds hammers". Just so we are on the same page. i have never seen a comercial product, just sds chisels with a groove machined in them. For wedge bolts we use a custom puller with ball thread. 2 lbs. It will break 3/8" bolts if you aren't careful.
@@HowNOT2 i have 3 of them, they are identical to a pickle fork. They came a rotary hammer I bought used, so I have no idea where they came from sadly.
That'd probably go quicker with a shop hammer, lol.
Probably a good idea to clip your lost arrow tool to something in case the hammer happens to knock it lose, and it goes for a flight down the cliff
see a Sledge Hammer in his Future....
😆😆😆
i think those two ara a couple
I'm pretty sure those type of bolts are not stainless
anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/products/mechanical-anchors/sleeve-anchors/power-boltplus.php
(Zinc plated)
fixehardware.com/index.php/powers-ss-1-2-x-4-3-4-5-piece-bolt.html
Why wouldn't you just grind off the head of the bolt and make a new hole about 6 inches next to it
Please no. It's about conservancy and keeping the footprint as small as possible.
8:43 That "compressed air" is actually a can of solvents. Not too bad if you're using it outdoors, but some people use it indoors to clean computers as if it actually is air
Might want to consider a bigger hammer xD
First
You put tape on the bit, then you know your depth, or paint
If I was going to do this, I'd just drill the bolts out.
Uh yeah you do not know what you are doing.... that's obvious....I will never climb on what someone else installed.....I do not want my life in the hands of just anyone.... have you ever watched a video of someone splitting stone with feathers and wedges.... these bolts are feathers and wedges ... you would be well advised to learn about those things.... to little torque = bad to much torque = bad .....bolts torque recommended changes with the type of stone size distance between holes etc.... learn the right way which this is not
"I will never climb on what someone else installed"
How does that work, exactly? Avoid all bolted climbs and belays?
Not trying to be an ass or anything, but the excessive use of ellipses makes reading your comment pretty agonizing.
what does this mean i feel like i’m reading hieroglyphs