How to set timing on a Suzuki Samurai
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In this video, I show y'all how to set your base timing on the Suzuki Samurai 1.3L with the stock Hitachi Carburetor.
This Timing Light has all the same features and looks identical to mine.
Innova 5568 Pro-Timing Light with Tool Case: amzn.to/2MeyI9l
Suzuki Samurai Service Manual: rover.ebay.com...
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Welcome to ELK Motorsports. My name is Trey Koepsel and on this channel the content will be mainly centered around the Suzuki Samurai. This content ranges from installation videos, DIYs, product reviews, varying levels of fabrication, as well as diagnosing and repairs videos. The main focus of this channel is to entertain, educate ( me as much as you), and most importantly have fun. If you enjoy fabrication, automotive modifications, and being entertained, then SUBSCRIBE to the channel to stay up to date on what I've got going on in the shop. So with that all said welcome to the channel.
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Thanks for the basics. Got a tintop with a 3K in the garage trying to stay budget. Hard to do when previous owners replaced 1 out of 4 bolts with an SAE and an impact gun. Somebody literally used a hammer to drive the rocker shafts either in or out. Hope you're fairing better. Born in Pasadena, living 20 miles north into Oklahoma right now, guess if I haven't gotten used to the heat in 49 years it just ain't gonna happen. Keep 'em coming.
xHECKx, that stinks about the bolts, but I'm sure I'll run into problems too as I get more into the build.
Lol. My son works there in Houston he said it is brutal. God bless my friend.
John Dudley, you too sir.
Hi greetings , I am from Fiji 🇫🇯 islands 🏝. 1. I never use timing light, but I know if you use one, then shoot it to the flywheel opening cut spinning area to take an accurate reading from that spot on the exhaust side of the engine and gear box mating where you see the flywheel spinning from hole port opening.
2. Your Samurais engine sounds rough like some pulley or water pump faults.
3rd, you guys in the USA including Tony from hwy83, are doing TDC at number 4, but I am doing it at number 1. It's much smoother idle, and the engine runs like a clock tiktiktik and saves fuel. Setting tdc at number 4 on a G13a Samurai is an horrible idea at the first place, and it will always give a rough idle and you guys will always try to use screwdriver to adjust the carbeurator idle screw and never find peace and happiness in your engines idle speed and smooth idle So go and give a shot give your g13a Tdc at number 1 piston and set your electronic distributors rotor above or slightly half inch before the number 1 plug tower on the distributor cap. Since the rotor rotates in a counterclockwise direction so upon cranking so about half inch away rotor positioning will also work but tdc at number 1 piston 😢and use the number 1 plug tower for detonation to occur to give you an instant start. You should have a 1/4 turn key, a tip start with no hesitation. When engine starts you can dial few mm advance or retard where you feel is the best idle running then tight that number 12mm bolt to secure the distributor Clockwise dial towards grill is retarding and opppsite twist towards firewall is advancing the distributor Good luck samurai owners. Hope my hints will help some folks save fuel and have the smoothest, pleasant idle ever on their G13a
Glad you are sharing love the videos. Watch them all. My fellow Texan. It sure is hot there in Houston and Beaumont.
John Dudley, God yes it is. Was cloudy yesterday so we got a little break. But after lunch the sweat just pours.
This man had a long fun day In the sun you forgot to take your goggles off buddy lol thanks for the video very informative !
chingon , lol more like my safety glasses.
Very good description - that´s very helpful. Thanks
Alfred Staude thanks for watching, as always
Thanks Trey. Your really helping me understand my Zook more and more. I just got my hands on an old transfer case, box and axles. Can't wait till I build up the confidence to tear into em. I bought a rebuilt box from John and your video helped me out with the clutch and box installation. Thanks again. Aloha bro.
Liwai Ani, no problem
I know where that first pic was taken. That strange looking valve or pipe, is at creekside offroad ranch in splendora. been there lol
How do I check my timing without that tool?
Line up the crank pulley with the mark on the timing cover, then what should I check in the distributor cap?
Space 671 hmm, without a timing light your not really going to know how far to turn your distributor to get the proper amount of advancement to the timing. Every engine is different so it's not as simple as just going 1/8" of a turn and call it good. You could rent a timing light from Advanced Auto Parts or AutoZone. It only cost refundable deposit to use the tool. And you could adjust the timing in the parking lot and 5 mins later take it back inside and get the deposit back in full.
Trey long time no see. Must have been working hard my friend.
Yes sir, working in Port Arthur TX, and have been trying to balance filming and editing with that. But I've been getting a lot done on the budget build and want to share it with y'all.
I don’t know if you are aware of this, but there are 2 ways to set the timing on the 1.3 L.
For checking ignition timing, there is a “ inspection plug cover “ located on the drivers side, front side of the bell housing. When the cover is pulled you can see the timing marks on the flywheel.
This method keeps your timing light cords away from belts & pulleys. I couldn’t resist. LOL. Keep your informative videos coming.
Check out UA-cam LowRangeOffRoad video “ how to set ignition timing on a 1.3 L Suzuki Samurai.
Lol yeah it must have been time to make a sacrifice to the Suzuki Gods. That trick asks only worth on trucks with original flywheel. I replaced the one on my tin top and it didn't have the hole for the dowel pin on the back of the crank for lining up that timing mark. I suspect because this motor is in so many different vehicles it was just cost effective to make one that fits them all.
I have just rebuilt my stock Hitachi carburetor and can't seem to drop the idle below 900 without it wanting to stall. My remedy for this is to adjust the idle mixture screw, but just can't seem to find the right balance. When I back out the idle speed screw, (the one you are adjusting in the video) it seems to only lower the idle speed so much then nothing changes. In fact I can almost back the screw entirely out without any drop below 900 Rpms. Any suggestions?
Kip Delaney I would double check all my vacuum connections, make sure none are cracked, torn, missing, or hooked up incorrectly. That's the simplest and cheapest check I would do first. May even have to remove the carb and ensure all solenoid are seated correctly and clean, no gaskets are smoshed/bulged. Ensure spacer isn't upside down, and that the carb to manifold is properly tightened and not giving you a vacuum leak.
Cool video
I bought a new distributor for my 1989 Samurai. The old one worked fine, I just bought all new stuff when I was under the hood.
My issue is, my new distributor spins freely above the set bolt. I mean, it fires right up and it runs, it just has issues with running smoothly all the time. I had to put a zip-tie to hold it in place. Is there a set screw to keep the top from spinning freely on the base?
nataleragemusic, are you talking about the rotor inside the distributor cap, or the entire outside housing?
@@ELKMotorsports If you look at the distributor, there is a 'seam' directly above the 'bracket' that has a slot hole in it to tighten the distributor down to the block.
That entire top spins. The whole cast piece that has the clips to hold down the cap.
The original distributor does not do that.
With the set bolt firmly tightened, I can spin the top half of the metal casing and hear the engine advancing and retarding. The casing, cap and all spins.
nataleragemusic, oh that shouldn't happen. I'd put the old distributor back on, for now.
Ifi have 3k toyota carb does my o2 senson need to be hooked up or is it point less or better off without
Jason Vaughn no need for it
If your cam and crank are synced TDC what should I see through the bel housing or should the marks be in the middle? Im having no start issues after a new head gasket.
ezzyeggy, marks on the flywheel are only going to be on the original flywheel. Line your cam and crank on your marks. If I had to guess, without seeing anything, I would say your distributor maybe out. Clock the rotor to cyl 4 on the distributor with your timing marks lined up in there current configuration.
@@ELKMotorsports I will change the distributor when I get new plug wires. Don't trust mine anymore after ripping off the ends too many times. Just wondering why I keep reading too clock it with #1 cylinder?
ezzyeggy, your whole distributor most likely isn't bad. The rotor is probably not lined up on the correct wire.
@@ELKMotorsports Clocked it to #4 and it runs like a top!! Can't thank you enuff!!! Saved me a trip to the shop.. Thanks again!!!!
Your welcome
they must have changed the top dead center number at some stage ? my sticker on a g13ba says 8 degrees and top dead center not 10 lol
Do you have or plan to make any videos on how to repair valve seals?
chris Luna, I won't say no, but I don't have a definite time frame for a video about that. I love doing how to videos because I love to share what I've learned in the hopes of helping y'all. But I do have a video of taking the cylinder head off and apart, and I'll make another one of reassembling and reinstalling the head.
is that timing and rpm same with the my side i cant remeber
Chuck Kerns, yes it is. It's just a different location of the idle set screw on the CV carb.
thanks couldnt remeber had it so long
Great video where can I get that timing gun??
Juny Beltran, glad you liked it, there is a link in the description of the video for the timing light.