I like your style Cam, straight forward and to the point, no BS or monkeying around. Well done and thanks for showing me how simple the job is to do at home.
Great video thank you as I need to do this on my RRS and just a tip for better alignment of the wheels for anybody who's interested, fit up the new tie rod to exactly the same length as the old one from the inner ball joint seat to the center of the outside ball joint. Rod lengths can differ slightly and you can further check it by raising the suspension and running a string around all four wheels. If it doesn't touch the front and back of all of the wheels (don't forget that the fronts may well "toe in") it'll give you an idea of how to proceed or just screw it and take it to your local stealer.
Question for you if you don’t mind. On the LR3, when replacing the rubber sway bar bushings with new rubber ones, do you recommend preloading (neutral level) the sway bar before torquing the bushing clamp nuts? Thank you 👍
On control arm bushings that's a must. On sway bar bushings you can usually get away without preloading as the bar just twists inside the bushing. I sometimes just put a little silicone in the bushing to help with movement.
Stupid question - what tool did you use to crimp that zip tie before you trimmed it. ? That type of tie doesn’t automatically lock/tighten as you pull it.
Hi Steven. It was a normal ziptie except the locking mechanism is metal and dig into the strap instead of the normal serrated edge and plastic ratcheting mech. The red handled tool was just a pair of Knipex slip joint pliers used to pull the zip tie tight.
The further out of true the alignment is the faster the tires will wear. So its all relative, I tend to look at my tires once a month just to the check for uneven wear or cupping.
Off hand I don't remember unfortunately... I THINK the jam nut was a 21 or 22 and the rod to knuckle was a 17? Don't hold me to that though I may be wrong.
I have an LR3 from 2005 that needs the rear tie rods replaced and screws were also very loose last time i took it to get it checked by a mechanic. I will do the allignment after as recommended.
Excellent video, this is my job tomorrow so lovely to have a clear, to the point video to help 👍🏻
I like your style Cam, straight forward and to the point, no BS or monkeying around. Well done and thanks for showing me how simple the job is to do at home.
Nicely done, well explained and shown that even with every days tools one can do this. Top job.
This is the best video walk through i’ve seen. Great narration and excellent video quality showing the parts installation.
Thank you!
@@projectaddiction where is your shop?
@@LTTUSA South west Canada few hours north of Seattle.
Great video thank you as I need to do this on my RRS and just a tip for better alignment of the wheels for anybody who's interested, fit up the new tie rod to exactly the same length as the old one from the inner ball joint seat to the center of the outside ball joint. Rod lengths can differ slightly and you can further check it by raising the suspension and running a string around all four wheels. If it doesn't touch the front and back of all of the wheels (don't forget that the fronts may well "toe in") it'll give you an idea of how to proceed or just screw it and take it to your local stealer.
Great vid. Bizarrely my old tie rods had no flat spots for a spanner so had to use a stilsons anyway!
I wish you were near me in Palm Desert, Ca. I’d have you work on my RRS.
Question for you if you don’t mind. On the LR3, when replacing the rubber sway bar bushings with new rubber ones, do you recommend preloading (neutral level) the sway bar before torquing the bushing clamp nuts?
Thank you 👍
On control arm bushings that's a must. On sway bar bushings you can usually get away without preloading as the bar just twists inside the bushing. I sometimes just put a little silicone in the bushing to help with movement.
Stupid question - what tool did you use to crimp that zip tie before you trimmed it. ? That type of tie doesn’t automatically lock/tighten as you pull it.
Hi Steven. It was a normal ziptie except the locking mechanism is metal and dig into the strap instead of the normal serrated edge and plastic ratcheting mech. The red handled tool was just a pair of Knipex slip joint pliers used to pull the zip tie tight.
@@projectaddiction Ok. Thanks much. Just got an 08 LR3 and it has a blown boot so I will give it a shot thanks to your video
Funny, our LR3 had 23 turns of the outer tie rod also. How far a drive with a toe / alignment issue would you estimate would result in tire wear?
The further out of true the alignment is the faster the tires will wear. So its all relative, I tend to look at my tires once a month just to the check for uneven wear or cupping.
Thanks for this. Do you happen to recall the bolt size for the outer tie rod?
Off hand I don't remember unfortunately... I THINK the jam nut was a 21 or 22 and the rod to knuckle was a 17? Don't hold me to that though I may be wrong.
@@projectaddiction ok cheers!
Hello is the process the same when changing the rear tie rods?
I have an LR3 from 2005 that needs the rear tie rods replaced and screws were also very loose last time i took it to get it checked by a mechanic. I will do the allignment after as recommended.
I can't speak for the rears for sure but I believe they are more of a dog bone style w/ bushings if I recall correctly.
Great video. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Solid video. Thanks
No problem 👍
Hello!
Where you buy the parts?
Thanks
Hi Antonio, I purchase my parts from Rock Auto as none of my local parts suppliers seem to carry Landrover parts.
Thanks for that video 👍👍👍
My pleasure 😊