2015+ WRX Rebuild - Pt.1 - Engine Removal
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2020
- I am just shocked that this FA20 bit the dust, modified Subarus are normally so reliable! /s
Here's the first video of the process of swapping the OEM block for an IAG stage 2 short block
INSTAGRAM: @christo4_adams - Авто та транспорт
This is the kind of video I wish existed for every procedure I want to do. For every step, you explain what you're about to do, then show it sped up while not cutting parts out. I have to pull my FA20DIT and I'll have this video up on my phone the whole time, good work!
i just had my short block replaced in my wrx, i never knew it was that much work to get to, that's crazy. great video
Great content , glad we found your channel, really looking forward to more , and stay safe through all the crazy going on in the world 🙏
love the channel man but especially the FA build ! hopefully you will have more 15+ WRXs to work on
Exedy makes the factory clutches for most Subaru and Nissan sport/performance cars.
Definitely needs an aftermarket Top Mount Intercooler. The Mishimoto and Grimmspeed are definitely great options. The stock one is crap
Agreed - part 2 of this video is coming soon and will include an intercooler!
How did you remove bank 1 intake cam?
Supra is at the bodyshop and should be back in a couple weeks!
I see a bracket in the back to attach one side of the chain for removal. I don't see another one and i dont see an ac compressor bracket that i can attach it, can someone post a pic plz?
Where is the listing point in the back of the engine ? Can you show a picture
I can't say ive seen a wrx fa20 removal video so this is cool to see imo. One question that i haven't found the answer to yet definitively is if u own a lift would it be easier to drop the motor and trans together by lifting the car up and away? I also have a wrx along with access to a lift and god forbid i rip out clutch or worse but im curious.
I don't think it would make the job any easier or quicker. If the engine easily separate from the trans its pretty simple to pull it out the top. Thanks for watching!
@@Christofo How did you get the engine to separate? Currently stuck on this step...doesn't want to break away from transmission (all bolts removed, working with lift, etc.)
@@ddooyema I'm exactly where you are in your comment. Any advice? Please?? :'(
@@ddooyema Hope you got it by now - just took a lot of prying on it
Good video, nice to see the process that I'll have to do soon. Same thing happened to my 15' wrx a couple weeks ago. Is he planning on running the stock turbo with the built block?
Thanks! He's currently undecided on the turbo, he would go to an FP blue if he upgrades. I'll have to talk him into it!
@@Christofo Yea he might as well if he has the built block going in! That's what I'd like to do also, but all these fancy parts add up so damn quick lol
Mine just started this. What was the result of yours? Engine change?
@@Tylers47comcast Damn sorry to hear that man. But yes I'll have to rebuild the engine unfortunately. Haven't torn it apart yet but it seized up when it "blew" so I expect the worse
First time i see a teardown fa20dit vídeo, many thanks for that. Now i have a question glad if u can answer but i’m very concerned about the carbón build up in your front piston, wich oil did it use un this engine?? I really want to know cause i own a ‘17 wrx and i want to prevent that. Many thanks and peace bro
The carbon build up is normal for a direct injected engine like the FA20, nothing to worry about.
3 years late, but an air oil separator would help with that. And if you can find a way to get the car tuned for an EGR removal. Cobb doesn't support EGR deletes anymore. And get it walnut blast around 40-50,000 miles (60 ish to 80ish thousand km).
Did you drain the oil? What did it look like? Are you sure the rod went and not just the timing tensioners... usually there is metal in oil when you spin a bearing.
It bent a rod, not sure if you’ve watched all the vids. Oil was clean, cut open the filter and it was clean too.
@@Christofo hadnt got to the other vids yet, just had a knock start on my 15 but is really odd it doesnt sound like its a rod more like chain slap
Can a cam sprocket job be done on this engine while in the car or does it have to be removed?
We did it in car because one of them needed replaced after this video. It’s doable.
@@Christofo how difficult was it? I'm dealing with a p0018 code. LH intake cam have to be removed.
@@Haze121201 imo the hardest part is cleaning up all the silicone on the factory cover. It’s not a terrible job if you’re mechanically inclined.
Curious on how far you were pushing the car to have these problems?, I have similar mods but am looking to see what supporting mods may help to prevent from blowing the block. Thanks.
If you haven't found out by now, the rods on these cars usually go. They can't withstand the power. All new internals are usually recommended to push past 350-400 safely. An iag block with the proper internals is the way to go (in my opinion.)
@@zachdee5103 I pushed the block 2 weeks after this to 400 in a FA20 and have had no issues thus far.
@@skylerknecht6588 Been at 400 for 20k miles no issues, beat on it daily too
How much were you pushing on the engine bro?? Miles??
26,000 miles, maybe 300WHP. The FA20 is trash.
how has the car been running for your friend after not replacing any of the oiling components?
Had to tear it back apart and replace a cam sprocket. Lesson learned.
@@Christofowhich cam sprocket? What was the reason for changing it?
IAG stage 2 block is 600 brake horsepower, which is about 450WHP give or take. If you're gonna go with a built block, why not go stage 3? To each their own.
Over $1500 more than the stage 2 and the car isn’t making and probably never will make more than 450whp.
This same thing just happened to me yesterday Im freaking out... how much u recon it would cost me to fix this so i can get rid of the damn car :(
Doing it yourself? Close to $10k
I figured the best way to learn about the engine would be watching a complete uninstall
They come factory with exeddy clutches and if you jack the trans up you would not have fought it the way you did lol
100% blew the engine because he went catless without an ewg. Stock iwg can't bypass enough exhaust and then the turbo overboosts big time
Yup boost creep. People kill these cars by their mods and driving habits
bro im in Ohio and my 16 wrx just blew sounds just like that.
Do you have a similar mod setup?
@@ranran2218 yeah everything he said plus bypass valve and EBCS. I never ran anything without a tune and it blew at 88k. I also ran it hard but would always let it warm up and did oil changes regularly. So I think its just luck of the draw with these cars.
Subarus are very reliable. People dont no how to maintain them and they think the stock internal parts are ment to handle all that power and there not aka your friend. When built right they are reliable soooo a false Statement.
Instantly turned the video off when you said “not very reliable” it’s really annoying for guys like you to treat these cars like some clapped Honda with an exhaust and beat it religiously thinking it won’t die from the abuse. The fact that those words can also turn away new comers for potential future Subaru owners cause a shitty owner that doesn’t know how to properly maintain these cars talks shit about them wondering why their car blew up.
Sorry you can’t handle the truth!
@@Christofoexcept it's not the truth. It's very well known to not run these cars with a catless down pipe. Hell most if not all RELIABLE tuners won't even touch catless wrx's. You even mentioned that your buddy was very hard on the car. If maintained on time and correctly and driven moderately abused sometimes, it'll last a long time. Also installing most mods without a tune will destroy the reliability as well which is a fact with most cars. That being said, conservative ish tune, no catless down pipes unless running ewg and tune for every mod you install if it affects airflow fuel or boost.
@@b2tl-gamingchannel319 what about the countless blown up BRZs/FR-S/86s? No turbo, still unreliable.