For a spun bearing especially, you should always replace all the oil components with bran new ones and have the heads cleaned so all the little metal shavings are 100% gone and the new block will last as long as it can.
Nice to see a build on a FA wrx. I think that you are using too much silicone, remember when torque the parts it will be a microscopic space between the parts, so you just need a thin continuous line of silicone. Keep up the good work
If anybody is curious, I talked to a tuner shop, they quoted $8900ish for a stage 2 engine with labor and like $7000 for a transmission upgrade, also fa20 is like 1k more expensive than ej
So altogether it would be $15,900? You'd think tackling both at once would bring the labor cost down a little bit but maybe they don't have any overlap in work
I saw you pull all your rockers from a bag did you set aside all of your shims and hydro lifters in order prior or just put them back in wherever? I dropped my pan I had all mine laid out in sitting there for a year now I’m worried I’ll have to check lash. 186k miles on the engine decided to do a full rebuild. How is it running now? Great video series thanks for putting it out!
I can't remember if we labeled them on removal or not, I vaguely remember checking lash after assembling and it was within spec. I think the OEM spec had a pretty large tolerance? Can't remember for sure! The car is still running strong and it will be 4 years since the rebuild later this year. He beats on it too!
@@Christofo word up lol awesome to hear! You guys didn’t run into the cam sensor code where you had to get/reset the ECU? I’ve been told that happens on every fa20dit build. Sick Supra btw
Very little you can do to the engine that won’t void warranty. An Intake or something along those lines you can get away with but most shit will void warranty. As far as exhaust goes, you’re good from Mid pipe back, once you start touching cats, you’re voided
Hey man, this video helped out a ton when re-building my 2016 fa20! However, I can't find anywhere the spec for the knock sensor angle. people say it has to be very specific but I couldn't find it. any ideas?
From the Factory Service Manual - Engine 1 Section: FUEL INJECTION FUEL SYSTEMS FUSTI; Section 7 Knock Sensor - "The portion of the knock sensor cord that is pulled out must be positioned at a 60° angle relative to the engine rear."
Thanks for watching! I cut open the oil filter and found no bearing material.. also no glitter in the oil when drained. So, we decided not to do any cleaning. This was a mistake as one of the cam sprockets has limited movement and we have to dive back in to replace it.
Good content... I am going through the same process. i used manley pistons which have no arrow or mark. Stock pistons have a mark on the top to indicate which way they should be installed. Did your pistons had an orientation mark?
Maybe I missed it but any idea of how much power this FA was making when it broke? Was it being run pretty hard or was this just a case of bad luck? Thanks for the video! Nice work!
@@Christofo only reason I ask is because I'm at 300 now, starting to save for an Iag stage 2.5 motor now. Would like to make my car about 400whp on ethanol and not have to worry about rods each pull.
@@Christofo Awesome I can't wait to see it!! You should check out my Instagram I have a fully built fa20dit happening right now. It hits the dyno for tuning tomorrow i should make around 500ish and I should hopefully finally be getting my car back after 11 months.
Hey I'm currently building my fa20, and when I'm trying to set timing, the cams won't spin freely, it's making it so I can't put the timing marks where they need to be, any ideas? Thanks!!
@@Christofo That looked like the graphite coated head gasket, those are notorious to failure. subaru sells an MLS gasket that is damn near bullet proof
@@Christofo The factory service manual says to put silicone not on the whole head gasket, but on certain points where it meets at the front portion near the timing chains on both sides.
For a spun bearing especially, you should always replace all the oil components with bran new ones and have the heads cleaned so all the little metal shavings are 100% gone and the new block will last as long as it can.
Nice to see a build on a FA wrx. I think that you are using too much silicone, remember when torque the parts it will be a microscopic space between the parts, so you just need a thin continuous line of silicone. Keep up the good work
You are probably right - we were definitely generous with the silicone. Thanks for watching!
Starting my own rebuild soon and this video has definitely been a great resource. Thanks for posting it!
Glad it helped, the service manual will be your best friend!
If anybody is curious, I talked to a tuner shop, they quoted $8900ish for a stage 2 engine with labor and like $7000 for a transmission upgrade, also fa20 is like 1k more expensive than ej
$8900 all in to pay someone to replace it - worth it IMO!
So altogether it would be $15,900? You'd think tackling both at once would bring the labor cost down a little bit but maybe they don't have any overlap in work
wow nice build setup! can't wait to see the Supra
So basically if I just buy the IAG block, I can swap everything else from the OEM FA20 to the IAG one?
I saw you pull all your rockers from a bag did you set aside all of your shims and hydro lifters in order prior or just put them back in wherever? I dropped my pan I had all mine laid out in sitting there for a year now I’m worried I’ll have to check lash. 186k miles on the engine decided to do a full rebuild. How is it running now? Great video series thanks for putting it out!
I can't remember if we labeled them on removal or not, I vaguely remember checking lash after assembling and it was within spec. I think the OEM spec had a pretty large tolerance? Can't remember for sure! The car is still running strong and it will be 4 years since the rebuild later this year. He beats on it too!
@@Christofo word up lol awesome to hear! You guys didn’t run into the cam sensor code where you had to get/reset the ECU? I’ve been told that happens on every fa20dit build. Sick Supra btw
@@richardbarbieri494 Nope, didn't have to deal with a new ecu/resetting - I have heard about that though. Thanks!
hope things go well you might wanna watch subi performance
Yo bro i just purchased a brand new 2020 wrx a couple months ago ive been curious to know what warranty mods would be the best to put on.
Very little you can do to the engine that won’t void warranty. An Intake or something along those lines you can get away with but most shit will void warranty. As far as exhaust goes, you’re good from Mid pipe back, once you start touching cats, you’re voided
Hey man, this video helped out a ton when re-building my 2016 fa20! However, I can't find anywhere the spec for the knock sensor angle. people say it has to be very specific but I couldn't find it. any ideas?
From the Factory Service Manual - Engine 1 Section:
FUEL INJECTION FUEL SYSTEMS FUSTI; Section 7 Knock Sensor - "The portion of the knock sensor cord that is pulled
out must be positioned at a 60° angle relative to the
engine rear."
I’m doing this build but idk what silicone to use which one did you use in the video
I got metal in my oil and am trying to put a iag stage 2 block in...thoughts on engine after install?...how does it feel?
What do u need to do to the heads when you transfer them to the new block?
Drop part 3 already!
wonder how much power he's going to run with this built block
Great Video! I also pun a bearing and starting my rebuild next week. Just wondering, how did you clean the cam sprockets and the turbo? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! I cut open the oil filter and found no bearing material.. also no glitter in the oil when drained. So, we decided not to do any cleaning. This was a mistake as one of the cam sprockets has limited movement and we have to dive back in to replace it.
@@Christofo dang, sorry to hear that. Thanks for the info and great content!
Good content... I am going through the same process. i used manley pistons which have no arrow or mark. Stock pistons have a mark on the top to indicate which way they should be installed. Did your pistons had an orientation mark?
These didn't have a mark but a "dish" on the intake valve side
Maybe I missed it but any idea of how much power this FA was making when it broke? Was it being run pretty hard or was this just a case of bad luck? Thanks for the video! Nice work!
It had full bolt ons (turbo back exhaust, TGV/EGR deletes, cobb intake, street tuned). It was ran really hard by the owner.
You on regular pumped at time of the kaboom?
How much HP was the car putting out to bend the rods over 300 less then 400?
Yes, somewhere in that range
@@Christofo only reason I ask is because I'm at 300 now, starting to save for an Iag stage 2.5 motor now. Would like to make my car about 400whp on ethanol and not have to worry about rods each pull.
@@BoostedFAand I’m over here with a STI on 360whp for 20k with turbo upgrade lol
did you reuse the timing chain and tensioner?
Yes
How is the build going? I'm almost done with my fully built FA20DIT and I can't wait to actually have my car back.
Laylah Cox should be wrapping it up tomorrow! I’ll have a video of it soon
@@Christofo Awesome I can't wait to see it!! You should check out my Instagram I have a fully built fa20dit happening right now. It hits the dyno for tuning tomorrow i should make around 500ish and I should hopefully finally be getting my car back after 11 months.
Hey I'm currently building my fa20, and when I'm trying to set timing, the cams won't spin freely, it's making it so I can't put the timing marks where they need to be, any ideas? Thanks!!
They won’t spin freely, if you google you can find a TSB for replacing the cam sprockets and it has instructions for the procedure.
@@Christofo perfect 👌 thank you so much ❤️
Still running? How many miles? Thanks for your videos.
Still running. I believe it has over 10,000 miles on it now.
I am starting on my rebuild this weekend. I hope it all goes good.
Shan4pow ! Good luck! I highly recommend keeping the shop manual pulled up and go through the relevant sections as you do the rebuild
Christofo yea I have it downloaded and have been looking threw it
Did you use oem headgasket just blew my 2017 motor and doing the same build
Yes
@@Christofo That looked like the graphite coated head gasket, those are notorious to failure. subaru sells an MLS gasket that is damn near bullet proof
@@richardbarbieri494 These were MLS. I dont think Subaru sells a graphite gasket for the FA20.
@@Christofo oh well that’s good to hear lol I’m going the same route with the iag stage 2 block this summer, can’t wait. Awesome work btw!
Dang no silicone on the head gaskets risky 😬
Sarcasm? You should not be putting silicone on headgaskets.
@@Christofo The factory service manual says to put silicone not on the whole head gasket, but on certain points where it meets at the front portion near the timing chains on both sides.
Why pay all that money & leave the stock manifold on, equal length headers are very affordable & would really help with the exhaust
Thanks for the video of how not to assemble a fa20😂
Video is 3 years old now and it’s still running strong
No fuji on the head gasket?
What the cost to do this!!
I would say around $8k with including the clutch, intercooler, tune. And that's with no labor cost.
@@Christofo was that labor time and thanks for reply
Would have been better if you killed that crappy music and gave a step-by-step tutorial.