Tamiya Durga DB-01 Upgrades
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video we get all the Tamiya Hop Ups fitted to my Tamiya DB-01 Durga...
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I gasped when I heard you’ve never built a slipper before. Hope you dial it in perfectly! 👍
I would throw the black wheels on the rear with the white on the front, just for giggles. You never know. If there was black on the back of the shell it would work better. Thank you for sharing your time and effort with us. Side note, Traxxas grey 12mm hexes fit on the axles of the rere Blackfoot, so if they are the same size as what you're working on, might be an option.
SneerfulDust
Excellent thanks for watching buddy 😊👊🏻
The Durga is a real looker that body turned out amazing! A dab of blue locktite or ca glue on those pins will keep the wheel pins and or hexes in place when removing the wheels. Thanks buddy good video.
Josh Coker
Excellent thanks for watching Josh 🤩👊🏻
Awesome I'm not the only Tamiya fan that has never fitted or used a slipper clutch.....Oh now u have l might be 🤣🤣 Smashing looking paint job, stunning looking DB-01 & anodized wheel nuts r always a must 👍👍
Matt Hutch
Excellent Matt thanks for watching buddy 🤩👊🏻
Nice buggy, the body you sent for painting is second to none, so well done.
Wow, 12.2k Subscribers, doing well Glenn 👍🏻👍🏻😎
Rcalltypes
Thanks buddy 😊👊🏻
Glenn you have the hands of a surgeon the ta05 is no joke when fooling around the motor mountain area even with the special long tool they give you to screw the motor mount screws lol thanks for the info on how easy it is to build a slippery clutch
Michael Stewart
Thanks Michael 🤩👊🏻
Another brilliant vid, very clear detailed &informative.......love it👍
Nostalgic rc
Thank you 😊😊😊
Aeration shocks can be used to alter damper rebound as it can slow the rate at which the dampers reach their full travel. Especially helpful during 'air time' over jumps - when landing afterwards, fast cornerning or high yaw rate transitions it can also help keep the steering geometry near to it's optimum.
Loved the video 👊👊👍😉
Ian Ellison
Quality information Ian, thank you 😊👊🏻
Is it also about fine tuning the damper length? (So you can have exactly the same damper length for all 4 shocks)? 🧐
i got to give you credit for your patience while doing that work, it looked like you were at the end of your tether. I got to say for me, building an RC car gave me patience but you looked like a pro dealing with the issues you had with that build. I'm sur eit will be worth it though.
andreas wheeler
Thanks buddy 😊👊🏻
I the screw on the shock cap is used to bleed shock.
1) eliminate air for more consistent function
2) excess oil to remove the rebound.
Mark G True, it was like that on my yokomo touring car. You needed to fully fill the shock and also the cap. When screwing the cap in, excessive oil was already coming out of the hole. Then carefully move the piston a couple of times to bleed the airbubbles and close the hole with the screw.
Mark G
Thanks Mark 😊👊🏻
Too bleed off excess oil when filling shocks
Another very interesting Video.
Thanks for sharing!
Sven Maier
Thanks for watching my friend 😊👊🏻
In my experience aeration shocks just mean thst you leave a bit of air in the shock. This air compresses when the shock shaft retracts. This is opposed to bladder type shocks which have that domed piece of rubber at the top. In that case the domed rubber can compress allowing the shock shaft to retract. Those holes in the top are to allow you to bleed the shocks with them together and you would fully seal them with the screw during normal use. In an aeration style shock there is no need or want to fully bleed the air out so those holes aren't needed.
Do RC
Excellent thank you 😊👊🏻
Almost right
@@markbruton-young9228 nope what?
The hole is needed to bleed the shock if using them in aeration setup with an oil ring seal. If using std bladders in the caps the hole does not need to be drilled out.
Awesome upgrades! For some reason I really want to build one of these.
It’s coming together Glen. As I’ve said very different to what us old git’s are used to.... But the highlight for me... The paint job Glen that is very very nice very skilled work👍👍👍👍
Darren Grimmer
Thanks Darren 😊👊🏻
Fab Film again Glenn. Interested to see how she turns out. Hope the rears arrive soon too. 😊👍🏻
Dave Pearce
Thanks Dave 😊. Yeah those dammmmm wheels 😞
Thanks for making this series! Great to remember what a fab car and plastic fantastic racer the durga is! The buggy dampers are necessary, but they're too long. Try removing the ride height collars or swaping to shorter springs. Also be careful with wiring, as theres not much room above the motor with that shell. esp with that WICKED AWESOME paint job! Mind blown! Baldre shell had more room, but not as cool looking. Also you may have issues with dropping driveshafts due to droop. Cvas will fix that. Thanks again for sharing!
K Miller
Thanks buddy I’ve fitted the shocks with the spacers now 😎👊🏻
Just spotted your 503 vid in your back catalog. what a car, sweeet! I'll bet you can use the one piece diff halves off your 503 on the durga. Probably swap the front one if you have to choose. Thanks again for the cool tamiya vids, lots of fun!
K Miller
Thank you 😊
Thought that screw was for bleeding off shock oil??....Not really tamiya guy so I wouldn't know...started with a Frog though back in the mid 80s and moved onto rc10s & rc12Ls...anywho, another great video...keep'm coming! Cheers!
Thomas Alexander
Thanks for watching buddy 😊👊🏻
That shell is something else 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
This Rc is going to be the boom ❤️
Just when I thought you talked about the best Rc , you pull another out the bag
Great work big man
CMW Chris woodward
Thanks Chris 🤩👊🏻
You should definitely put blue aluminum hex hardware 👍 I put some blue hardware on my old Tamiya, definitely makes it much more trick looking and a little weight savings
Integra DIY
Thanks for watching buddy 🤩👊🏻
That body shell looks Awsome 😎👍
Thewileecoyote
Thanks buddy 🤩🤩🤩
Great video glenn I have got a slipper clutch and front one way diff for my dark impact df03 same here i have never fitted a slipper clutch before
coz
Cool 😎
Thanks for watching buddy 😊👊🏻
Would agree it's sitting high at the rear. You could measure the shocks, eye to eye, new compared to kit & see if they are longer. You can always use a small length of nitro fuel tube on the shaft t limit it's travel.
Steve Moon
Yeah I’ve actually got the spacers fitted now, it’s much better now Steve 😊👊🏻
The shock hole let's air into the top of the shock above the bladder, this means that by putting the screw in and out you can adjust the shock rebound
Nope
@@markbruton-young9228 what's it for
Very thanks for video
Daniel Baca
Thanks for watching buddy 😊👊🏻
Awesome mate👍👍👍👍
David Turner
Cheers David 😊👊🏻
The DB02 has front and rear wheel hex upgrade kits from Tamiya. 54669 is rear and 54668 is front. I believe they work on the DB01 as well.
They also have a white 4wd dish wheel set. All 4 wheels with hex drive. Part number 53728.
Brian Arasim
Excellent thanks Brian 😊👊🏻
No problem. Keep up the great work!
You can tell a real original slipper clutch by whether or not it slips out of your hand!;)
James Cunliffe
Lol 😂👊🏻
Hi glen great video have you
Got some old rear hex’s you could drill out to the axle size 🤔 then there’s no problem many thanks again for your videos keeping me entertained it these strange time 👍
Patrick Sadler
Thanks Patrick 😊👊🏻
Dremmel+thread tapps+drills
Loving this video. Have the same car I want to build so like to see what you are doing
FlyingAmbo
Excellent 🤩👊🏻
It really sound strange with the problems you have had, apart from the rear wheels it looks great, can't wait for you to get the body on😀😀😀
bluesimon13ify
Thanks buddy 😊👊🏻
Wheel hex was not a thing back then. the pins is what we all used
Randy Slagle
Thanks buddy 😊👊🏻
Wow that means my Vanquish was way ahead of its time.
Glenn, I've done DOZENS of Slipper Clutches... If you should need advice. They're simple really. 😉
Excellent tuning tool. You can eliminate power sliding on turns with one!
SOME Muppets used to use their Ball Diffs as Slipper Clutches!! 😲😖
So the Durrrrrga!! One of Tamiya's Werks Racers, right? Certainly LOOKS well put together.
I'm needing a 4X4 Buggy!!
Not a bit of kit like THAT, but maybe a TT-02B...
Please stay SAFE! 😷
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
IMO, Aeration Shocks are not always the answer... Shock Tuning is best done with Shock Oil and Piston hole/type/number.
Pistons with holes that are. Drilled with a larger chamfered end on one side, are excellent for Tuning!!
Big hole on top gives fast compression up, and more controlled, slower Damping extending back out.
Vice versa if you flip the Pistons where the big hole on Bottom.
I've also Tuned a LOT of Shocks in my Racing days.
Those NON HUB Wheel mounts!! Had them on the first 4 generations of RC10! 😖😡😖
What we did was put a drop of Threadlock in the pin holes...
Did a pretty good job of holding them in place! 😉
Please stay SAFE! 😷
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
PoorManRC
Excellent thanks for watching my friend 😊👊🏻
those pins are a pain and I am sure they would wind me up also, looking forward to seeing this one driving around
adrian harrison
Thanks Adrian 🤩👊🏻
Great video. Placed an order for one having watched it and now waiting for it to arrive. Hopefully won't get stung on the inport for Japan.
Just a quick one - only because you repeat it so many times - Those shocks are called aeration dampers. It's pronounced 'air-ray-shn'. or more acurately 'euh·
rei·shn'. Hope that helps? 👌👍😊
We drilled those holes in the caps to get excess oil and air out the shocks. But you need to drill quite shallow hole as it is easy to go all the way through and that's no bueno :p
As for the rear wheels, in my experience different manufacturers use hex adapters with larger hole sizes for the axles, e.g. traxxas hex adapters have if my memory serves correct a 5mm hole
Marius Hille
Excellent thanks for that 😊👊🏻
Not sure if it applies to these, but on my TLR kits, they has no diaphragm on the shock caps. You use the hole to completely remove/bleed all air from inside the body of the shock for a more consistent action.
Steve Moon
Thanks for watching Steve 😊👊🏻
You should also consider the re-inforced belts for your Durga, I just got one recently and more or less tried to mimic my original DB01-R (which I decided to and regret selling a while back >.< ). The other upgrade would also be the front ball diff being replaced by the 1 way diff or getting the center diff with the 1 way. The front hex should also be upgraded to the 12 mm hex. In regards to keeping the pin in the hex, you can make it stay in place with a bit of Tamiya grease so it doesn't slip out...
Ivan Tanuwidjaja
Thanks for the feedback Ivan, very much appreciated my friend 🤩👊🏻
Right aeration shocks. Aeration refers to the way the oil and air is mixed in these shocks also sometimes referred to as emulsion shocks. Non aeration - setup uses a rubber bladder in the cap to allow displacement of the volume of the oil in the shock due to the volume of the piston and the shock shaft when on full compression in the body. This oil displacement has to go somewhere and so pushes up the badder into the cap. In aeration shocks the oil and air is deliberately mixed into an emulsion. There is no bladder only an o ring to seal the cap. These shocks are filled by over filling the shock body (domed with oil) and a tiny amount in the cap itself and screwing together quickly. However you have to still account for the length of shaft in the body once on full compression otherwise you get pushback from the oil at the piston as it almost meets hydraulic lock in the body at full stroke. To do that you undo the bleed screw and slowly push up on the shock shaft (slowly) until it's all the way in the body, doing this you will find that oil seeps out the bleed screw hole, this might have to be done twice. Then refit the bleed screw. once complete you will get no push back from the piston or shaft when on full compression. I.e. (A dead shock)
mark bruton-young
Wow excellent information Mark, thanks for taking the time to leave this comment my friend 🤩👊🏻
And yeah such a daft fitting for wheels. I made same mistake in ordering the rear hex
Yes, it's the same things on the trf201 and 211 ... with this washers that need to be in the right way ... not the good choice for the wheels ...
I don't understand your hex' problem?! Bearings are 1050, so the diameter of the axle is 5mm : is your hex' really a standard one ??
Your body is gorgeous 😍 ! Can't wait to see it on this chassis 👍
Jos 19192
Yeah it’s definitely a different size, I’ve now been told you can buy the DB-01 hex adapters as a hop hop 🤷🏼♂️
They made the original wheels so the options to replace them is wider. They are called the Losi setup and they were using that kind of setup with other 2wd/4wd Buggies until TRF 511. Then IFMAR decided that all cars must have hexes 🤦🏻♂️ hence your 503 have regular hex setup
rese banget
Excellent information thank you 😊👊🏻
TAMIYA Legends i’ll post mine in the facebook group soon
Does the drilling in the damper let air out? Less compression pressure ramp up,just guessing? If the hole had threaded tube remote reservoir could be added?:)
DB-01 RRR solved the problem with hex'es
I wish i had an R3
Pity you can only really dye plastics a darker hue, if you had white wheels and needed black :O) but as you have black and need white you'll just have to wait :O( .
Cheezsoup
Thanks for watching buddy 😊👊🏻
Hey, where did you get the carbon shock towers from ? I see that part no 54668 is suitable for the front and 54669 for the rear, these are the 12mm hex hubs you were seeking for. 54061 is a double slipper clutch version is that better than the one you have installed?
Sonny
Great questions I don’t know the answer too 😂👊🏻
I'm sorry about getting ur Hope's up with my last comment about the motors. I've looked everywhere and can't find the place where I seen them.i was planning to buy the whole lot and sending u and Gavin at RC Kicks some motors on GP. I will find the seller. And when I do I'll let u know
Brian Argo
Thanks Brian 😊👊🏻
You should have used the blue ball joints!
Christopher Last Name
Thanks for watching 😊👊🏻
Glenn does it not mean 4mm x 0.2mm. I think there only needs to be 2 on there. Not 100% sure though
Lee Hurst
No I believe it was definitely 4x needed, it made all the difference tbh Lee 😎👊🏻
Drill the hex to suit the axle and you're good to go.
How good is it that Tamiya enclosed the belts to protect them from debris 👌🦘🇦🇺
Outback RC Australia
Excellent 🤩
Thanks as always for watching buddy 👊🏻
coming on nice glenn... yeah shame bout the wheel fittings, but it'll turn out ok :D ...... how's the posh porsche getting on?
chloe devereaux
You’ll see the Porsche very soon my friend 🤩🤩🤩
@@TAMIYALegends awesome..... i'd drill out the hex hubs!!!!!!!!
I have a spare Dyna Storm body that I'm looking for someone to do a TRF paint job on.
Zack TheBongRipper
Are you in the uk buddy?
Hey mate, to get 12mm hexes on the rears, you need part number 42275 19804801. If you haven't used them they are included in your TRF503 kit. If you need 12mm hexes for the front of you Durga or 503, you need part number 54668.
Here are the rears.
www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9804801
I believe these are the same with a different part number.
www.rcjaz.com/tamiya-54669-4wd-buggy-aluminum-hex-wheel-hub-rear-op1669-p-90070796.html
Glenn hate to say I prefer the black rims.
Glenn, I meant to ask after the last video. Do you have any recommendations on a professional painter in the UK? Cheers sir
John Westwood
I actually don’t unfortunately John sorry buddy I’m a bit out the loop in the uk 😬🤷🏼♂️
Hey Glen , what's the length of the rear ones , I'm trying to come up with a replacement for my stock Clod Buster shocks , and I want to stick to Tamiya brand .
David Cotter
Hey David
What measurements do you need buddy?
@@TAMIYALegends I think stock Clod Buster shocks are 106 mm , I looked at a vintage manual, and there was a long cva oil damper set way back in the day.
It is extra weight that is why there is no hexes.
They probably wanted less rotating Mass.
Could you just drill out the 12 hex??
FlyingAmbo
I’ve just been told I can buy hex adapters for the DB-01 🤩👊🏻
Air.... Ation Glen. Not hairy Ation 🤣🤣. Everytime I hear you say aeration I'm shouting at my phone. Sorry brother
Hope it didn't have Coronavirus.
The wheels are an absolute joke. Brilliant car but awful wheel decision by tamiya. There was no need to do it. I would love to hear from tamiya why they made that choice. It's ludicrous
Lee Hurst
100% Lee 😊👊🏻
Cool build Glenn can't wait to see it done.
tamiya frog
Thanks man 😊👊🏻
Wheel nuts wheel nuts