That phrase “ it’s not as straight forward as you’re led to believe” is how I feel about you guy’s down talking media blasting. I’ve been blasting for several years I use glass and walnut, never wet blast and I don’t remove it in a single pass. If done correctly I bring less heat and remove less metal than an orbital. I never use actual sand or coal slag. I take Honda hoods half blasted to car shows to prove my skills. Your entire camaro would cost you 1k-1800 depending on the extent of how clean you want it and take six hours for me to do. A typical diy guy it would literally take months by hand on their spare time to get it done not even close to the same results in tight areas. Although a chemical process can work quickly but it’s temperature sensitive. That 25 minutes on such a small area I would have had all the jambs done. Staring on all the thicker more stronger areas and finish out the cars panels last because of the caution focusing on those areas. 6 cars a week and random body parts for three to four months out of the year pending good weather I’ve yet to damage anyone’s car or truck. Can’t even begin to tell you how many people spread negative things about blasting but they never had anything blasted. My booths at car shows prove I do some of the thinnest metal and I have lots of these young kids coming to me restoring classic Honda’s, Toyota’s and 80s vw gtis now. If you take your parts to a place that builds stair rails and large equipment and they offer blasting that’s where you get damaged parts. Get with local restoration shops and I’m fairly certain they will recommend someone that knows what they’re doing.
@@jasoncardoza6375 Awesome. Thanks very much for sharing that. That’s why I didn’t want to provide a blanket caution - there is a lot to consider. Armed with a little insight the DIY guy can have a better idea what to look for and engage someone like yourself who understands the issues and applies techniques that work. Thanks again. Really appreciate it. 👍
Bingo you nailed it, especially when you pointed out other shops that also offer auto blasting as a side service, you also didn't mention how in larger cities nearly everyone with a media blaster thinks they're an automotive blasting expert, it take more expensive machines and materials to do a quality automotive blasting job
You are absolutely correct about front sheet metal. Aftermarket is horrible and if you can keep front you will be miles ahead of the game. Awesome video as usual.
WOW!! Great Video!! I have a 68 Camaro and I have used the Coopers Stripper on my 2007 White (PEELING) Savana. Paint came off like a dream on original and just a little more work on places that were repainted. Had my ugly van stripped in 2.5 hrs. Now it's an ugly grey. lol Painting it soon. Cheers!
I bought the old harbor freight pressure sand blaster years ago. Sand is too rough. But black beauty or coal slag seems not as aggressive. Also finer grits help thinner panels. I did sand blasting for a company. We did heave metal parts. I could turn things down and use fine grit and not warp thin gauge panels. But I had to experiment, I did find what worked. But you can warp panels fast. Even panels as thick as 3/16 and 1/4 think. It usually balances out when you flip the panel and blast the other side but not always. With my small air compressor that was too small and my small pressure blaster, I did the entire underside of the 74 Camaro. It was work. Covered the floor of the barn with thick plastic and recycled most of the coal slag. The floor pan looked great.
I met a cutting edge stripper in Palm Beach one time back in the day. I'm here to tell you, some of the moves she had were way ahead of their time. She had a kid though and I was young and restless.
Very good review of the process and all the options. I found that for interior footwells and firewalls and especially the undercarriage that have old tar like material, using dry ice is incredibly efficient with no dust. Comes off in large pieces and on both sides of the metal! - just a light tap with a rubber hammer and it literally falls off leaving the original primer or bare metal. I have not tried it on bondo but it should have the same effect and just fall off.
I like the water sand blasting tool for use on Mopar k frames before I reinforce them by welding gussets and rewelding all seams and adding lower control arm reinforcements
Back in the early 90s I used a Methylene Chloride based jell stripper. MC is not flammable, but highly evaporable, so it needed to slathered on liberally. It wrinkled up the paint and softened the bondo quickly. I initially pressure washed the “goop” 1st before hitting it a 2nd time and then scrubbing with a scotch pad… my XJ6L Jag came out gleaming steel. It appears in the video that many more steps are required to get down to bare metal than I experienced. Wish I could remember the brand of stripper, but…. 😢
@@ParadiseBayCustoms interesting note: MC was banned due to toxicity determination. Now maybe I’m just lucky, and maybe at 70 I’m jinksing myself…. But I manufactured polyester resin gel coat for over twenty years and had my hands in MC on a daily basis… I also ran hoops 5 or 6 times a week, so maybe I worked it outa my system that same day… xing my fingers still. Wish I could post my stripped Jag for all to see.
I always hear horror stories about sand blasters warping panels but ive never had a bad experience with any sand blasting. Its been by far the cheapest and easiet stripping method for me.
@@MrYz250fman Awesome! Glad to hear. I know a few guys that have similar luck with good companies. Thanks for watching and commenting. Both much appreciated.
Thank you Paradise for the awesome video. You know me and the quandary that Jubee and I have with my Galaxie. I’m going up to Jubee’s shop Friday and bring her home. I know it’s gonna be a massive job undoing the crappy job we got from that shop I’m Marietta. I just don’t really know where to start. I’m thinking that some of the panels were done right with epoxy primer and I wish I could tell which ones were. How can I figure out what’s good and what’s not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@kennethmays6830 Love your Galaxie… Terrible situation indeed. Hard to say other than doing some testing in inconspicuous spots to test??? Last thing you want is to be wrong and have the bad adhesion effect another paint job. Probably best not to trust any of it???
@ true that Paradise. I’m gonna take it all the way back to bare metal. But somehow I feel like the skim coat of filler is on there good. I’m gonna get one of my good friends that’s a body man to come help me figure this out. But I think bare metal is the only way to go. Jubee worked too hard building a whole Brand New body to half ass it at this point. The only metal that’s not new is the roof skin and that’s because they don’t make it.
Stripping paint off an old car rates second only to drilling out spot welds by the hundreds if you use donor panels, I am in New Zealand , and yes I have used the cooper's system, value for money needs to always be equated the number of chargeable/ wasted hours using a cheaper product, using cling wrap over applied stripper will make it work faster and slow down evaporation,,,,,and remember every human only gets ONE set of eyes and lungs so wear appropriate protection!!!!!
@ I’m generally happy with finish it left on the panels, but I’m still dealing with the blasting media falling out of all the crevices every time I flip it over. I would not use the same company to blast more parts. The guy that did it did not seem too competent and it took longer than it should have IMO. The media was not flowing quickly enough and he even admitted at the end that he was “conserving media” on purpose because he didn’t bring enough with him. At $300/hour I was a little more than perturbed about it. But I learned from it and moved on haha. 🤣
Mm strippers. Oh wait 😅. I did the dustless blasting on the drunken turbo... Never again. Some smaller parts, I took to a local blaster/powder coater. They did a great job. Minimal to no warpage and a pretty clean part afterwards. As usual. Nice video with excellent editing
@ParadiseBayCustoms yep. The guy that did it was pretty inexperienced. Ended up with all the media caked into just about every crevasse, rockers were pretty full, zero rust inhibitor, etc. Neddless to day, I was pretty disappointed. So much I didn't touch the car for about 6-7 months. I know/seen others have excellent results with the dustless blasting. It's just not for me. I'll sticknwith what I've known for years. Basically the video you just posted. Chemical stripper and other mechanical means. Like my Eastwood SCT works awesome for removing paint and other materials.
Oh I should add, some parts are perfect for dry media blasting. Thicker metals and more contorted parts. Like say a lower balance for the rs front end. Not too flat and the dry media blasting I had done, was pretty well done
There is big difference with professional media blasting and the hobby builder. The large professional setups can use baking soda, walnut shells, coal slag, sand, even plastic media. Pressure and grit are specific for each use. That does not get explained enough. I have seen the soda cans blasted with baking soda with no damage, well if we believe the adds and the magazine articles. I have used the profession, large media blasters. I’ve gotten a finger in front of that nozzle by accident. It’s no fun. I would not use that setup on my car at all. You could but you better know what you are doing.
I bought the old harbor freight pressure sand blaster years ago. Sand is too rough. But black beauty or coal slag seems not as aggressive. Also finer grits help thinner panels. I did sand blasting for a company. We did heave metal parts. I could turn things down and use fine grit and not warp thin gauge panels. But I had to experiment, I did find what worked. But you can warp panels fast. Even panels as thick as 3/16 and 1/4 think. It usually balances out when you flip the panel and blast the other side but not always. With my small air compressor that was too small and my small pressure blaster, I did the entire underside of the 74 Camaro. It was work. Covered the floor of the barn with thick plastic and recycled most of the coal slag. The floor pan looked great.
That phrase “ it’s not as straight forward as you’re led to believe” is how I feel about you guy’s down talking media blasting. I’ve been blasting for several years I use glass and walnut, never wet blast and I don’t remove it in a single pass. If done correctly I bring less heat and remove less metal than an orbital. I never use actual sand or coal slag. I take Honda hoods half blasted to car shows to prove my skills. Your entire camaro would cost you 1k-1800 depending on the extent of how clean you want it and take six hours for me to do. A typical diy guy it would literally take months by hand on their spare time to get it done not even close to the same results in tight areas. Although a chemical process can work quickly but it’s temperature sensitive. That 25 minutes on such a small area I would have had all the jambs done. Staring on all the thicker more stronger areas and finish out the cars panels last because of the caution focusing on those areas. 6 cars a week and random body parts for three to four months out of the year pending good weather I’ve yet to damage anyone’s car or truck. Can’t even begin to tell you how many people spread negative things about blasting but they never had anything blasted. My booths at car shows prove I do some of the thinnest metal and I have lots of these young kids coming to me restoring classic Honda’s, Toyota’s and 80s vw gtis now. If you take your parts to a place that builds stair rails and large equipment and they offer blasting that’s where you get damaged parts. Get with local restoration shops and I’m fairly certain they will recommend someone that knows what they’re doing.
@@jasoncardoza6375 Awesome. Thanks very much for sharing that. That’s why I didn’t want to provide a blanket caution - there is a lot to consider. Armed with a little insight the DIY guy can have a better idea what to look for and engage someone like yourself who understands the issues and applies techniques that work. Thanks again. Really appreciate it. 👍
Blast at a steep angle I heard works you don't want to be 90degrees to any panels
Bingo you nailed it, especially when you pointed out other shops that also offer auto blasting as a side service, you also didn't mention how in larger cities nearly everyone with a media blaster thinks they're an automotive blasting expert, it take more expensive machines and materials to do a quality automotive blasting job
So wonderful to see your content again. Been awhile but things happen in life.
Thank you for posting
Yeah! Welcome back. AWESOME video - WOW!!! Your content just keeps getting more and more engaging. Well done 👍
You are absolutely correct about front sheet metal. Aftermarket is horrible and if you can keep front you will be miles ahead of the game. Awesome video as usual.
@@aMAYSingMetalWorks Thanks so much! 🙏
Excellent video. Rounding edges off scraper so it doesn’t gouge…Yessir! You proved with that your a Craftsman! Subbed!
Awesome! Glad I earned your sub 👍 Much appreciated.
Heat gun and scrapper works extremely well
@@smokepeddler Really? Will have to give it a try. 👍
thumbnail looked like a brisket video. but was even more excited you are back 😎😎😎
🤪 Oh OooH! Gonna have a bunch of foodies reaching out and complaining. 🤪. Many thanks.
Glad to see you are back at it. I missed your video's and was wondering about your progress. Excellent content as usual.
Thanks. Busy summer, now back on the build with the cold weather here. More to come soon. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching. 👍
That stripper worked very well. Panels look good to. Definitely worth fixing.
Indeed. I’m pleased with it. Think I got away lucky for a change. 🤪
WOW!! Great Video!! I have a 68 Camaro and I have used the Coopers Stripper on my 2007 White (PEELING) Savana. Paint came off like a dream on original and just a little more work on places that were repainted. Had my ugly van stripped in 2.5 hrs. Now it's an ugly grey. lol Painting it soon. Cheers!
Awesome - glad to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
For the thick bondo I use a propane torch and heat up the bondo and it scrapes right off. It's a lot cleaner than all that dust.
Really. Wow… I’ll have to give it a go. 👍
Wow! I definitely learned a lot that I can use for my future projects. Keep the videos coming 😎
Thanks. Will do. 👍
I bought the old harbor freight pressure sand blaster years ago. Sand is too rough.
But black beauty or coal slag seems not as aggressive.
Also finer grits help thinner panels.
I did sand blasting for a company. We did heave metal parts. I could turn things down and use fine grit and not warp thin gauge panels. But I had to experiment, I did find what worked. But you can warp panels fast. Even panels as thick as 3/16 and 1/4 think. It usually balances out when you flip the panel and blast the other side but not always.
With my small air compressor that was too small and my small pressure blaster, I did the entire underside of the 74 Camaro. It was work. Covered the floor of the barn with thick plastic and recycled most of the coal slag. The floor pan looked great.
@@DavidB7474 Awesome! Appreciate you sharing your experience. 👍 Lots to consider indeed.
Awesome video, as I ran across this product a few months ago and wondered if it worked.
Much like me… I figured it was probably too good to be true but the stuff actually works. 👍
Love the DD Speedwell clip
🤪 Had some fun! Thanks! 👍
great video , that new zealand product really works amazing, 👍🍺🍺
Indeed. Very pleased with it. 🍺🍺
I met a cutting edge stripper in Palm Beach one time back in the day. I'm here to tell you, some of the moves she had were way ahead of their time. She had a kid though and I was young and restless.
😅 Uh the good ole days!!! 🍻
AWESOME! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks Bud! 🍻
Very good review of the process and all the options. I found that for interior footwells and firewalls and especially the undercarriage that have old tar like material, using dry ice is incredibly efficient with no dust. Comes off in large pieces and on both sides of the metal! - just a light tap with a rubber hammer and it literally falls off leaving the original primer or bare metal. I have not tried it on bondo but it should have the same effect and just fall off.
Very cool - good to know it works. Thanks!
right o , recycled glass finer than sugar does very nicely
👍
Great video as always
Many thanks 👍
Good thing that Camaro was savable my old 67 after having it acid dipped was so far Gone I had no choice but to go with a full Dynacorn Body
It’s all relative I guess 🤪. How did the full Dynacorn body work out? Always been curious.
@ I had a professional shop figure it all out but end results was very good im satisfied
Awesome. Glad to hear. 👍
I like the water sand blasting tool for use on Mopar k frames before I reinforce them by welding gussets and rewelding all seams and adding lower control arm reinforcements
I can see why… Perfect application for that. I think my pressure washer would need to have more jam to be more effective. Appreciate the comment. 👍
Back in the early 90s I used a Methylene Chloride based jell stripper. MC is not flammable, but highly evaporable, so it needed to slathered on liberally. It wrinkled up the paint and softened the bondo quickly. I initially pressure washed the “goop” 1st before hitting it a 2nd time and then scrubbing with a scotch pad… my XJ6L Jag came out gleaming steel. It appears in the video that many more steps are required to get down to bare metal than I experienced. Wish I could remember the brand of stripper, but…. 😢
Navy Jelly perhaps? Methylene Chloride based strippers sure did the job. Thanks for sharing your experience. I appreciate the comment. 👍
@@ParadiseBayCustoms interesting note: MC was banned due to toxicity determination. Now maybe I’m just lucky, and maybe at 70 I’m jinksing myself…. But I manufactured polyester resin gel coat for over twenty years and had my hands in MC on a daily basis… I also ran hoops 5 or 6 times a week, so maybe I worked it outa my system that same day… xing my fingers still. Wish I could post my stripped Jag for all to see.
Crazy! You’re still here, that’s gotta be a good sign. 🤪 Would love to see that Jag.
That is impressive
I was equally impressed! Appreciate the comment. Much appreciated.
Very educational
@@jayo7737 Thanks. I learned a few things too! 😉
I always hear horror stories about sand blasters warping panels but ive never had a bad experience with any sand blasting. Its been by far the cheapest and easiet stripping method for me.
@@MrYz250fman Awesome! Glad to hear. I know a few guys that have similar luck with good companies. Thanks for watching and commenting. Both much appreciated.
Thank you Paradise for the awesome video. You know me and the quandary that Jubee and I have with my Galaxie. I’m going up to Jubee’s shop Friday and bring her home. I know it’s gonna be a massive job undoing the crappy job we got from that shop I’m Marietta. I just don’t really know where to start. I’m thinking that some of the panels were done right with epoxy primer and I wish I could tell which ones were. How can I figure out what’s good and what’s not? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@kennethmays6830 Love your Galaxie… Terrible situation indeed. Hard to say other than doing some testing in inconspicuous spots to test??? Last thing you want is to be wrong and have the bad adhesion effect another paint job. Probably best not to trust any of it???
@ true that Paradise. I’m gonna take it all the way back to bare metal. But somehow I feel like the skim coat of filler is on there good. I’m gonna get one of my good friends that’s a body man to come help me figure this out. But I think bare metal is the only way to go. Jubee worked too hard building a whole Brand New body to half ass it at this point. The only metal that’s not new is the roof skin and that’s because they don’t make it.
@ Indeed. Fingers crossed 🤞
Stripping paint off an old car rates second only to drilling out spot welds by the hundreds if you use donor panels, I am in New Zealand , and yes I have used the cooper's system, value for money needs to always be equated the number of chargeable/ wasted hours using a cheaper product, using cling wrap over applied stripper will make it work faster and slow down evaporation,,,,,and remember every human only gets ONE set of eyes and lungs so wear appropriate protection!!!!!
Amen to that! 🍻
The issue with media blasting is heat and warping.
Indeed. 👍
I've never found any chemicals that will take powder coating off. Always needs to be baked off.
Cool. Never tried. Good to know. Thanks! 🍻
Acid dip by a pro
That would be the way to go with the right car for sure 👍 Not available up here though. 🍻
Great info. 👍🔥Subbed…
Excellent. Me too. How did your blasting on the ‘68 work out?
@
I’m generally happy with finish it left on the panels, but I’m still dealing with the blasting media falling out of all the crevices every time I flip it over. I would not use the same company to blast more parts. The guy that did it did not seem too competent and it took longer than it should have IMO. The media was not flowing quickly enough and he even admitted at the end that he was “conserving media” on purpose because he didn’t bring enough with him. At $300/hour I was a little more than perturbed about it. But I learned from it and moved on haha. 🤣
Good on ya! I look forward to seeing your build progress. 🍻
Mm strippers. Oh wait 😅. I did the dustless blasting on the drunken turbo... Never again.
Some smaller parts, I took to a local blaster/powder coater. They did a great job. Minimal to no warpage and a pretty clean part afterwards.
As usual. Nice video with excellent editing
@@Kevin_Ruz Did you run into problems with the dustless blasting? Much appreciated. 🍻
@ParadiseBayCustoms yep. The guy that did it was pretty inexperienced. Ended up with all the media caked into just about every crevasse, rockers were pretty full, zero rust inhibitor, etc. Neddless to day, I was pretty disappointed. So much I didn't touch the car for about 6-7 months.
I know/seen others have excellent results with the dustless blasting. It's just not for me. I'll sticknwith what I've known for years. Basically the video you just posted. Chemical stripper and other mechanical means. Like my Eastwood SCT works awesome for removing paint and other materials.
Oh I should add, some parts are perfect for dry media blasting. Thicker metals and more contorted parts. Like say a lower balance for the rs front end. Not too flat and the dry media blasting I had done, was pretty well done
@Kevin_Ruz Yikes. I have something similar to the SCT too. 👍
@Kevin_Ruz You bet. Completely agree. Much appreciated.
There is big difference with professional media blasting and the hobby builder.
The large professional setups can use baking soda, walnut shells, coal slag, sand, even plastic media. Pressure and grit are specific for each use. That does not get explained enough.
I have seen the soda cans blasted with baking soda with no damage, well if we believe the adds and the magazine articles.
I have used the profession, large media blasters. I’ve gotten a finger in front of that nozzle by accident. It’s no fun. I would not use that setup on my car at all. You could but you better know what you are doing.
@@DavidB7474 Appreciate the comment. Thanks for sharing your insight. 🍻
You missed out on a viable option. Laser Striping. Not clean up. Non toxic and fast. Look into it. You may be surprised
@@KelimariaBrigham Indeed. I’ve seen it but it’s a huge investment from what I understand. Or is it? Appreciate reaching out. 🍻
* * * * *
@@immanutt4442 Thanks!
So wonderful to see your content again. Been awhile but things happen in life.
Thank you for posting
@@robertdarscheid9703 Thanks
I bought the old harbor freight pressure sand blaster years ago. Sand is too rough.
But black beauty or coal slag seems not as aggressive.
Also finer grits help thinner panels.
I did sand blasting for a company. We did heave metal parts. I could turn things down and use fine grit and not warp thin gauge panels. But I had to experiment, I did find what worked. But you can warp panels fast. Even panels as thick as 3/16 and 1/4 think. It usually balances out when you flip the panel and blast the other side but not always.
With my small air compressor that was too small and my small pressure blaster, I did the entire underside of the 74 Camaro. It was work. Covered the floor of the barn with thick plastic and recycled most of the coal slag. The floor pan looked great.
Awesome, a blaster definitely has its place, more so in the right hands. Appreciate it. Thanks!