I wasn't sure about the dicro dish, but I like it with the little divots. It's interesting. My mother and I call trinket dishes possible dishes, because there are so many possibilities of what you can use them for
Hi Danny. I have a video that covers most of what I have. The only thing really missing is my sandblaster and cutting table which has a Beetle Bits cutting system on it. You can see all that in a lot of my videos. You can also see my main glass storage in some videos as well. Hope this helps. May do a refresher video at some time. ua-cam.com/video/4r1037_nHXA/v-deo.html
Thank you for this, your videos are always so well explained and perfect for beginners to follow. I have learnt lots and it’s reassuring to see that things don’t always go right
They both came out beautifully! Thank you for sharing. The reaction dish has a vintage look to me. I think it is interesting that you, maybe intuitively, chose a black backing. By contrast, the black dish looks modern and the dichroic and the holes lend to a modern feel. Was that a flex shaft that you use to grind? I have never used one in glass only metal jewelry.
I have to agree with Lisa. I think the black dish looks very modern and interesting with the shiny craters on the matte background. A happy 'accident'.
Hi Lisa. Yes, that's an old Dremel (one Ann replaced with a new Foredom unit) hanging from the roof and a flex shaft. I use that for things like carving, grinding the backs of cabs so bails can be glued on, etc. Always done in water. Hence the flexible portable camping sink, with one side collapsed down. A piece of glass in front as a shield. Yes, I am going to replace that with a piece of perspex. 😁
A couple of nice easy projects, I have a soap dish moulds I could utilise. is it worth the extra time spent improving the black piece if it were to be sold, considering the size and the $ it would be priced at? Great tutorial Cheers
Hi Jeff! Your videos are so helpful, thank you! I recently did a similar project as your frit dish. And after the slump, the polish I had from the full fuse was less so and the frit was more defined in texture (so you can feel their outlines if you run your hand over it). It looks fine but I had liked the polish better. Do you think this is just due to the compression into the mold, or due to temperature or hold in the slump firing (or something else)? Thanks!
Hi Liz. I think I was too confident. Have done this several times before and it worked. Can't work out what is different this time. I think some of it is down to a rougher texture on that dichro. I tend to think that having the dichro in each corner may have also contributed. But clear shouldn't soften as quick as the black. I expected the black base to soften and the dichro to settle in. I'll probably do a couple of tests to narrow it down.
How do you decide how to price things like trinket dishes? They are so small…but they are art! And, they are useful, but at the same time, a jelly jar lid also works… This is always a hard type of item for me, as I’m such a DIYer, I have little dishes of wood and glass and pottery everywhere…but I’ve never *purchased* one!
Hi R P. You've touched on a subject that is always a challenge for me as well. Value is absolutely in the eye of the beholder in this case. You can just price the materials you use, add on your time and then a profit on top. Most market people I've talked to don't even add on their time, but that's not sustainable. If it's a business you must cover all materials and costs, then your time, and then a basic profit so you stay in business and grow. A basic profit being a percentage of all costs, which includes your time. Business often add 100% on to the costs, but I find that had to do. Here in a rural city there is no big tourist market and few high end buyers. In the right location and with the right market you should be able to do that easily. Then comes the 'art' value. Not every bowl is the same. Just as you have your favourite, customers will also. So some designs will be much more attractive to people. So you can also add more value for that. Forget about jar lids. This is art and there is no comparison. The person that will buy your art is not the same person that would rather use a jar lid. The only other thing I can add is don't use yourself as a guide. The old saying that asks, well what would you pay for it, is false. Don't feel guilty about it either. I know craft is hard to sell, but unless your doing it for fun, you have to stay in business. The main trick, if in business, is to make for the market. What have you sold? What styles do people like? What colours do they prefer? In business you need to cater to the market, as a hobbyist you cater to your own preferences. Wow, that's a mouthful. Hope this helps.
Hi Sergio. Absolutely. The fuse melts the glass and surface tension causes it to pull in and start rounding off. You may have heard of the 6 mm rule. What that means is that if you melted the glass long enough it will flatten to 6 mm thick and form a disk. This is why you can place a 10 mm square piece of 3 mm thick glass in a kiln and fuse it until it becomes 6 mm thick, so it get thicker, and forms a round cabochon. Equally, a piece of 10 mm thick glass will flatten out to just 6 mm and spread out. At lower temperatures you'll find the glass surface still starts softening and the square edges start rounding. Even at slump temperatures there is some softening of the surface and it rounds out it part. A sandblasted piece of glass at low slumping temps will develop a satin finish. Hope this helps.
I just ran a trinket tray. It had a dip in the sides, it has peaks on the corners, not sure how to describe it. I put the prepared fuse glass in, and it flowed out of the side. My kiln is not level so that may be it. also the glass was the same size as the mold.
Hi Judith. If you slump and the kiln isn’t level it will slump to one side. If it flowed a lot check the temp and the hold. Same size glass shouldn’t be a problem if level.
Nice save really cute!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Annette.
I wasn't sure about the dicro dish, but I like it with the little divots. It's interesting.
My mother and I call trinket dishes possible dishes, because there are so many possibilities of what you can use them for
I agree. And I've seen them used for many reason, as well as an 'everything' dish that ends up having all those odd things thrown it there.
Great video. At some point can you do an equipment tour. What you use to make ur items.
Thank you.
Hi Danny. I have a video that covers most of what I have. The only thing really missing is my sandblaster and cutting table which has a Beetle Bits cutting system on it. You can see all that in a lot of my videos. You can also see my main glass storage in some videos as well. Hope this helps. May do a refresher video at some time. ua-cam.com/video/4r1037_nHXA/v-deo.html
Thank you for this, your videos are always so well explained and perfect for beginners to follow. I have learnt lots and it’s reassuring to see that things don’t always go right
Hi Gillian. I think when they don't is the best time to learn. I'm learning a lot. 🙄
This was a really useful one. Thank you.
My pleasure.
They both came out beautifully! Thank you for sharing. The reaction dish has a vintage look to me. I think it is interesting that you, maybe intuitively, chose a black backing. By contrast, the black dish looks modern and the dichroic and the holes lend to a modern feel. Was that a flex shaft that you use to grind? I have never used one in glass only metal jewelry.
I have to agree with Lisa. I think the black dish looks very modern and interesting with the shiny craters on the matte background. A happy 'accident'.
Hi Lisa. Yes, that's an old Dremel (one Ann replaced with a new Foredom unit) hanging from the roof and a flex shaft. I use that for things like carving, grinding the backs of cabs so bails can be glued on, etc. Always done in water. Hence the flexible portable camping sink, with one side collapsed down. A piece of glass in front as a shield. Yes, I am going to replace that with a piece of perspex. 😁
@@watcherinlaa8736 Us glass fusers never have accidents, do we? Just unplanned features. 😂😂😂
I think the bubbles turned into a happy accident. The craters provided a lot of interest.
Hi Sheryl. It's funny how that happens. Something wonderful happens you didn't expect.
A couple of nice easy projects, I have a soap dish moulds I could utilise. is it worth the extra time spent improving the black piece if it were to be sold, considering the size and the $ it would be priced at? Great tutorial Cheers
In hindsight, the black should have ended up in the scrap box. Definitely too much work for selling. But interesting.
Hi Jeff! Your videos are so helpful, thank you! I recently did a similar project as your frit dish. And after the slump, the polish I had from the full fuse was less so and the frit was more defined in texture (so you can feel their outlines if you run your hand over it). It looks fine but I had liked the polish better. Do you think this is just due to the compression into the mold, or due to temperature or hold in the slump firing (or something else)? Thanks!
Hi Carrie. That's strange. I'm honestly not sure why it changed from a full polish to having texture. I wish I could help.
I had a feeling that you would get bubbles on that black piece. Could you have put clear dichroic on the top (clear side up)?
Hi Liz. I think I was too confident. Have done this several times before and it worked. Can't work out what is different this time. I think some of it is down to a rougher texture on that dichro. I tend to think that having the dichro in each corner may have also contributed. But clear shouldn't soften as quick as the black. I expected the black base to soften and the dichro to settle in. I'll probably do a couple of tests to narrow it down.
How do you decide how to price things like trinket dishes? They are so small…but they are art! And, they are useful, but at the same time, a jelly jar lid also works…
This is always a hard type of item for me, as I’m such a DIYer, I have little dishes of wood and glass and pottery everywhere…but I’ve never *purchased* one!
Hi R P. You've touched on a subject that is always a challenge for me as well. Value is absolutely in the eye of the beholder in this case. You can just price the materials you use, add on your time and then a profit on top. Most market people I've talked to don't even add on their time, but that's not sustainable. If it's a business you must cover all materials and costs, then your time, and then a basic profit so you stay in business and grow. A basic profit being a percentage of all costs, which includes your time. Business often add 100% on to the costs, but I find that had to do. Here in a rural city there is no big tourist market and few high end buyers. In the right location and with the right market you should be able to do that easily. Then comes the 'art' value. Not every bowl is the same. Just as you have your favourite, customers will also. So some designs will be much more attractive to people. So you can also add more value for that. Forget about jar lids. This is art and there is no comparison. The person that will buy your art is not the same person that would rather use a jar lid. The only other thing I can add is don't use yourself as a guide. The old saying that asks, well what would you pay for it, is false. Don't feel guilty about it either. I know craft is hard to sell, but unless your doing it for fun, you have to stay in business. The main trick, if in business, is to make for the market. What have you sold? What styles do people like? What colours do they prefer? In business you need to cater to the market, as a hobbyist you cater to your own preferences. Wow, that's a mouthful. Hope this helps.
I am confused...when putting in the kiln the squares have straight 90° corners, after the full fuse they are rounded. Is that what normally happens?
Hi Sergio. Absolutely. The fuse melts the glass and surface tension causes it to pull in and start rounding off. You may have heard of the 6 mm rule. What that means is that if you melted the glass long enough it will flatten to 6 mm thick and form a disk. This is why you can place a 10 mm square piece of 3 mm thick glass in a kiln and fuse it until it becomes 6 mm thick, so it get thicker, and forms a round cabochon. Equally, a piece of 10 mm thick glass will flatten out to just 6 mm and spread out. At lower temperatures you'll find the glass surface still starts softening and the square edges start rounding. Even at slump temperatures there is some softening of the surface and it rounds out it part. A sandblasted piece of glass at low slumping temps will develop a satin finish. Hope this helps.
I just ran a trinket tray. It had a dip in the sides, it has peaks on the corners, not sure how to describe it. I put the prepared fuse glass in, and it flowed out of the side. My kiln is not level so that may be it. also the glass was the same size as the mold.
Hi Judith. If you slump and the kiln isn’t level it will slump to one side. If it flowed a lot check the temp and the hold. Same size glass shouldn’t be a problem if level.
@@RocketRoseArt Thank you