I have used mica powders on glass by with rubber stamps and Perfect Medium from ranger. It is a nice change if you want a pattern. It would also keep the mica from floating up.
@Yvonne Williams When fusing micha power to glass only the pigment physically in contact with the glass will fuse to it, meaning the barest base layer is what fuses to the glass. Micha doesn't melt and flow the way glass does so it can be really finicky.
Also your fingers can leave oils on the glass that cause it to be kinda scuzy after firing, best to not handle with bare fingers too much. i forgot to wash some blue adventurine glass with cleaner before adding it to the kiln and i was super disappointed when i pulled them out. flat surfaces on the glass pick up the oils much faster
When handling mica powder you should wear gloves. The oils on your hands can leave a film on the glass and it can hold the mica in too thick of a layer and cause the glass not to stick. Mica is a natural mineral and doesn’t melt like glass. I had some that looked great but several months later it split apart. Under magnifying glass you could see the finger oils and where the mica kept the glass from fusing
Thanks for the great video! I have muscovite mice on felspar stones for decoration in my front yard. Sunrise and sunset the clear sheets of muscovite glisten in the sun. The width is maybe 1mm and 8 to ten mm in various shapes. I was wondering about somehow making a window out of the pieces. Thanks, this video helps my research. A lot of old castles and churches used muscovite to make windows in europe.
I wonder how mica would work if you try a lamp work technique - make a gather, poke it onto a pile of mice a bunch, then pull a stringer. Decorate a bead with the stringer and cap with clear?
Yes you can pick up mica with a hot gather or a bead. It does need to be encased as mica does not fuse. Too much exposure to the flame and exposed mica can burn away.
I wonder if you could create a faux stone by using black, brown and gray glass with the gold mica powder?🤷♀️ The mica powder would make a veining like fools gold possibly. By the way I squinted for you every time you cut the glass. Just couldn’t help it!
Try just dribbling the clear chunks instead of spreading - you've moved your underlying color away. Dribbling or placing the pieces will reduce the spread of the color/mica. A 2 hour hold?? sure seems long. Can you raise the shelf a little to reduce the hold? I hate waiting on the kiln to finish!!
@@Christine-rg2ev im referencing the sheet glass she says she has cut... She does tell us about the frit and just because two types of glass have the same COE it doesn't necessarily mean they're compatible. I've also learned some ppl use regular window sheet glass- like from Home Depot, but thank you for answering
@@deannak1841 Yes - although Yvonne didn't mention the sheet glass forming the base she did say mica is compatible with all of the glass she uses [COE90; COE96; COE104]; however, all COE96 fusing glass is compatible with all COE96 frit. The coefficient of expansion has to be the same for the sheet glass and the frit.
@@Christine-rg2ev this is from Bulleye But COE ("coeffecient of expansion") by itself cannot tell you if two glasses are compatible. In order to know that a Bullseye glass is compatible with glass from another manufacturer, you must conduct your own tests. Matching COEs does not ensure compatibility between glasses, no matter what you read or hear anywhere else. There are many different factors besides COE that determine compatibility between glasses. COE is just a single factor.
Completely encase in clear. Like a full sheet glass on top
I have used mica powders on glass by with rubber stamps and Perfect Medium from ranger. It is a nice change if you want a pattern. It would also keep the mica from floating up.
@Yvonne Williams When fusing micha power to glass only the pigment physically in contact with the glass will fuse to it, meaning the barest base layer is what fuses to the glass. Micha doesn't melt and flow the way glass does so it can be really finicky.
I love all these 😢 the blue triangle we got to see in the end is our most favourite 💘
Thanks for showing us how you make these, it was so interesting, I think they look great.
Also your fingers can leave oils on the glass that cause it to be kinda scuzy after firing, best to not handle with bare fingers too much. i forgot to wash some blue adventurine glass with cleaner before adding it to the kiln and i was super disappointed when i pulled them out. flat surfaces on the glass pick up the oils much faster
I loved them all.. fascinating to watch the process.thankyou for sharing ❤
When handling mica powder you should wear gloves. The oils on your hands can leave a film on the glass and it can hold the mica in too thick of a layer and cause the glass not to stick. Mica is a natural mineral and doesn’t melt like glass. I had some that looked great but several months later it split apart. Under magnifying glass you could see the finger oils and where the mica kept the glass from fusing
Great experiment!
Very interesting!! I always wondered how this was done.thank you!♥️♥️
Love them… thanks Yvonne! 🐢
Thanks for the great video! I have muscovite mice on felspar stones for decoration in my front yard. Sunrise and sunset the clear sheets of muscovite glisten in the sun. The width is maybe 1mm and 8 to ten mm in various shapes. I was wondering about somehow making a window out of the pieces. Thanks, this video helps my research. A lot of old castles and churches used muscovite to make windows in europe.
I wanted to see the purple once... I love the white once... they cool and look like I would think moonglas would look...
Nice job!! Fascinating.
Like the ones that have the little bits of color in them
I have no clue about this. My guess would be coat the glass in a bowl with the mica then lay it down on the kiln? Beautiful creations.
I just like watching you And your imagination so pretty.
Hey there! I would love to work with glass... do you think cutting with a rock saw blade would work? ❤️❤️
Girl you crack me up
hehe :p I'm glad to share some laughs with you!
I wonder how mica would work if you try a lamp work technique - make a gather, poke it onto a pile of mice a bunch, then pull a stringer. Decorate a bead with the stringer and cap with clear?
Mica, not mice...lol
Yes you can pick up mica with a hot gather or a bead. It does need to be encased as mica does not fuse. Too much exposure to the flame and exposed mica can burn away.
Way cool, thanks!
I wonder if you could create a faux stone by using black, brown and gray glass with the gold mica powder?🤷♀️ The mica powder would make a veining like fools gold possibly. By the way I squinted for you every time you cut the glass. Just couldn’t help it!
Try just dribbling the clear chunks instead of spreading - you've moved your underlying color away. Dribbling or placing the pieces will reduce the spread of the color/mica. A 2 hour hold?? sure seems long. Can you raise the shelf a little to reduce the hold? I hate waiting on the kiln to finish!!
What kind of glass is that? Nobody ever says
She said she was using COE96 and she also said you can use mica on COE90 or COE104
@@Christine-rg2ev im referencing the sheet glass she says she has cut... She does tell us about the frit and just because two types of glass have the same COE it doesn't necessarily mean they're compatible. I've also learned some ppl use regular window sheet glass- like from Home Depot, but thank you for answering
@@Christine-rg2ev I'm a PITA about details lol
@@deannak1841 Yes - although Yvonne didn't mention the sheet glass forming the base she did say mica is compatible with all of the glass she uses [COE90; COE96; COE104]; however, all COE96 fusing glass is compatible with all COE96 frit. The coefficient of expansion has to be the same for the sheet glass and the frit.
@@Christine-rg2ev this is from Bulleye
But COE ("coeffecient of expansion") by itself cannot tell you if two glasses are compatible. In order to know that a Bullseye glass is compatible with glass from another manufacturer, you must conduct your own tests.
Matching COEs does not ensure compatibility between glasses, no matter what you read or hear anywhere else. There are many different factors besides COE that determine compatibility between glasses. COE is just a single factor.