Thanks again Marion for another fine production! You made a comment that it's in your nature to over tighten stuff. Me too. I've had seasoned mechanics tell me to not cinch filters with anything but your hands. I never listen and pay for it when it's time to take it off. Especially with these damn oil filters...
Thank you, Marion! Love and appreciate your videos! I'm cracking up on this one with your self-deprecating humor. Takes a real man to be able to laugh at himself! 👍🤣
Timely video-my message light for fuel filter change just came on! I too just let the filter drain-the clear tube didn’t work for me either. Keep up the good work!
Seems no matter how many times you video a project such as filter changes you most often make some improvements to the process which really helps me. Thanks again for the tricks and tips!
Glad I came across this came across this I just got me a 2016 Dodge Cummins heavy duty turbocharged bighorn very insightful very helpful a lot better than trying to read the manual and trying to piece together what it's trying to tell me even though I can figure it out it's good to always see some visual stuff as well
I have a 2019 ram - i let it go double on the filters one time - no problems and they looked really good when they came out - I am careful about the diesel I put in - only mainstream stations I use - ram may be selling products that cost way too much - I only use napa gold filters in all my stuff - cars / trucks / tractors / backhoes / bikes / ATVs and all - they only use the best company's - been doing so for many decades - never a moments trouble - good show my friendly acquaintance - camera work is a lot better than some -- makes it easier for all of us --
You still are the man, making great helpful videos. I really appreciate your time and effort. Thanks a million. Wish you had a "Thanks" on your videos. I would donate.
Hi Marion We're in the market to purchase a RAM 2500 with the 6.7 diesel for our bumper pull. I've been doing a lot of research on 6.7 maintenance so I will have a pretty good idea on what to expect as a diesel owner. I've been watching few of your videos and had to comment on the Ridgid tool you used as a filter wrench. I would have never thought to use that strap wrench for a filter wrench. Back in the day I had one in my tool box for plasti-bond conduit. I gave it away thinking I would never need it again, LOL. I see now once I make the RAM 2500 purchase I'll go ahead and grab a strap wrench too. Thanks for the videos, I find them very useful.
Hallo Marion, different topic going back to tire replacement. Do you think it's ok to take off the four wheels from my dual axle travel trailer and temporarily put on my two spares ( thus having only one on each side) while I bring the four old ones to the shop for mount and balance new ones? Basically is it safe for the trailer to be supported and kept parked stationary temporarily by only two wheels instead of all four. Also, the tires I have on it now are the original ones (made in 2014/2015) that came with my 2015 Keystone Outback that have no more than five thousand miles on them. They still have very good tread and minimal if any cracks on the sidewalls. Their brand is called Trialer King. Do I even need to replace them now or should I just wait till I put another five or ten thousand miles and they get older. Thanks again, best, Happy and safe RVing. 🌞
I would replace them. I've seen blow outs take out hydraulic and electrical lines and even saw one go thru the floor. I think I talked about this in my Maxxis video. Trailer King and all the China bombs are ok as long as you keep the tire pressure at the max on the side of the tire. If you've got enough block, you can block up the both sides and let the wheels hang, it won't hurt them as long as you are on the frame. I can jack up both wheels with a bottle jack from the middle of the tires and block it there with one set of blocks. Make sure the balance the new on as a lot of dealers don't do it unless you tell them.
@@MarionBlair Thanks much for your fast response. So to be on the safe side you're recommending i put new tires on even though they look fine? I DEFINITELY believe in safety always first. I found a four pack on Amazon for $312. I'll put the link below. But you probably still advise getting Maxxis? Any other top brand you can recommend? I heard Sailuns, Carlile Radial Trail HD, Goodyear Endurance are excellent. The following link is a recent UA-cam list of the top five trailer tires. ua-cam.com/video/Z8Q7vOZd6n4/v-deo.html I'm wondering if trailer tires are rated for how many miles they will wear like tow vehicle tires are ie. 30,000 , 40,000 etc.? Thanks www.amazon.com/Premium-WINDA-Trailer-Tires-Featured/dp/B01MD2C4QI Here is a very interesting UA-cam link by BigTruckBigRV which if they will fit my 15" rims I'm very interested in. ua-cam.com/video/RZfVmnnRkjE/v-deo.html BigTruckBigRV put this video out. He says they don't come in the size I have on now which is ST 225/75 R15. I need to know if the size they come in will fit my aluminium rims and what the differences will be. They are the Goodyear Cargo G26. They are only D rated and come ST 225/70 R15 which, I think will bring the trailer a bit lower. Tough to find the truth. Thanks
First time I changed my rear fuel filter I got reminded about the effects of vacuum... when fuel stopped coming out of the petcock valve I stupidly enough closed it and cranked loose the filter. What happened next y'all can probably figure out yourself... my face was silky smooth afterwards - by far the most efficient facial treatment I've ever had.
I have let mine run down the hose for a couple years now. I need to find a Tupperware. I drop it with a ziploc bag around it. Works OK. Another great video sir.
The drain only drains the water out. What happens if you take off the bottom valve b4 taking off the filter- will that "drain" the filter? Last time I removed rear filter, diesel sprayed out all over making a mess!
So I did the front one by itself, and did the whole ignition on and off and everything went great, but couldn’t do the rear one because it was late. Do I have to do the same procedure to the rear one? Or should I put diesel on the rear one when I put it in?
sorry, I know the subject of the video is different, but I would like to ask a question. my 2010 Ram 3500 diesel, when I accelerate the front it seems to be light. is it too much swag what could it be?
Nice work Marion! Just replaced my front tank float on the 1997 f350 turbodiesel. Fuel gauge now seems to work. Forgot to connect the plug and at first I was upset. Is it ok and no damage if we put the bottle jack to the shackle between the two wheels on the travel trailer?
@@MarionBlair Got it, makes sense to jack from the solid I beam frame not a more fragile axle. Have you ever heard of Hercules tires? Hercules HT- 901 all steel 15" tire.ua-cam.com/video/WCSt74AzDuU/v-deo.html I hear you had bad luck with Goodyear tires. Alot of people had troubles with their Marathon. Supposedly their Endurance is a much better tire. I hear the Endurance has very little tread depth however. I'm sceptical about this. I like a good, safe amount of tread depth. I'd think it's safer in rain and would last longer too? Thanks, have a good weekend 🌞
A little off topic, I watched your videos about the foam and baffle inside the air intake, and given all the research and work you put in, I won't be putting a CAI in, I am curious to know though what your thoughts are on the drop in filters vs the oem filters inside the oem air box, are the drop in filters really that beneficial, or with the increased air flow, are they just allowing more particulate to pass through to the turbo.
Marion Great Video. Do you know if they sell water separators that are see thru or transparent? Semi- trucks have the see thru separators where you could see the water separated from the fuel? I'm looking for one. This way you can look to see how much water has separated and when to drain it. That would be cool if they sold one. Maybe someone out there would know. Thanks again
Racor sells them. Don't know about where to mount it. BTW, Racor makes the one on the rams 13 thru 18. Racor is the best water sep you can get. Virtually every vessel in the ocean has a Racor. www.google.com/search?q=racor&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS975US975&oq=racor&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i20i263i512l2j0i512l7.1401j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
@@MarionBlair The '19 & newer trucks have a rear water separator made by Parker. Doesn't Parker own Racor? I'm not too sure but it may be a Racor as well. It does the job because my front filter is always clean at 15k mile intervals.
Hey Marion, it Doug Stephen friend. Ty is my birth name. Anyhow. I am using a CAT oil filter on my 6.7 . No adapter it screws right on. 2 micron filtration and there built a lot better than any other filter. Part # 396-4596.
Looks like yours came off easy after you broke it loose. My 2014 is a fight all the way to the end of the threads, have to wedge myself between the frame and dpf on the exhaust to get a good enough grip and break it loose
I know this has nothing to do with this video but i can not find anything about how to do a coolant flush on my 2015 cummins. I cant seem to find the radiator drain plug and have heard conflicting info as to wether my truck even has one, i also cant find a tutorial on how to bleed the air from the system and there is no radiator cap so I’m wondering if you fill from the coolant reservoir if that fills the radiator? Need to get this maintenance done and it’s stressing me out, just wondering if your 2014 is similar and if you have any advice. Thanks.
Changed both fuel filters…no start….tried your priming method in the fuse box…no fuel is getting to front filter. Any ideas? Check valve not working in rear filter is my thought. 2018 60,000. How does that valve function? I am going to get a strap wrench to see if I can tighten it more. Maybe a bad filter that won’t open the check valve.
It’s got to be the rear filter. I’d take it back off and look inside and see that the little probe that pushes the check valve up is not missing or broken.
Thanks….I will check today and let you know. I bought them on eBay. They look like Oem, but I’m thinking the price was too good. I complained to the seller and his reply was in Chinese.
@@DavidSmith-pw8lm If it’s the OEM, you’ll have to push up on the filter to get the threads started. Be careful not to cross thread it but it’s straight forward. You can feel the check valve open when you pushing up, if you can’t, wrong filter or aftermarket.
Bought filters from dealer, compared them to eBay filters, installed them, did your priming method….truck started first try. To note, when comparing the filters and their packaging side by side they do look legit. The differences on the packaging are eBay was brighter and glossier paper and the one difference was the dealer one had a date stamp on the box. The lettering was close but had some flaws. Now to the front filter: the eBay one looked almost exact except for it did not have the part number laser engraved on the top. The inner lining was a greenish colored mesh which did not have as much restriction as oem. The measurements on it were close but the ball pin was a bit more. The rear filter looked exact except for a silver unpainted edge where the canister was crimped to the base. It was missing a o-ring in the center hole which explains the ease if it going on. The ball pin was recessed 5mm deeper which could account for it not functioning. In the end I am glad the truck did not start…..they were junk. Buyer beware. Thanks for your help
Thank you Marion for this very useful video!. Now the MOPAR set is close to $ 200 in AMAZON!, ...that's to much for my wallet, so I'll give a chance to the KOROP Chinese brand ($ 32)...hoping my 6.7 does not suffer any harm...🤞
Hey Marion. I am noticing my 2014 2500 fuel filer life is following oil life in the last year or so. Before I could go two oil changes before a fuel filter change, now it seems to be one for one. Old girl is getting up there in age but my driving/towing has not changed much in the last five years. Any thoughts on that?
That's interesting. I agree with Marion that it appears that the fuel filter life indication on these trucks simply counts miles and tells you the filters need to be changed when you get to 15,000. I wonder if your scenario says something about the oil life indication and how oil life is determined by the truck. The manual says to change the oil every 15k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. I change it every 6 months and that usually coincides with somewhere around 7,000 to 8,000 miles, and at that time the oil life indication tells me I have somewhere around 50% oil life. So I have always assumed that the oil life indicator just counted miles as well, just like the fuel filters. Maybe this is something you'd want to keep an eye on to see if you notice that the oil life is not dropping linearly with miles. My thoughts on the oil life indicator are obviously highly speculative and based on assumptions.
I used the same bucket method after the First Messy Filter change with diesel dripping everywhere. On my next fuel filter change I think I will fill the rear filter with diesel. Hopefully it will cut down on ignition cycles.
What exact tub are you using? I end up getting a diesel bath every time I do my rear filter. Finding something to fit up there has eluded me thus far. lol As usual thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Marion, for another instructive video. I agree that the "bucket and no-drainhose method" saves you one unnecessary and messy step, so probably the better way to do it. On another note, you've now got me all freaked out about the "counterfeit" filters on the market. I've been buying my filter sets on Amazon for about $130 bucks and they come in sealed Mopar boxes with O-rings, etc. They all APPEAR to be legit Mopar parts, but is there some way to tell if you're getting counterfeit parts? Or, were you referring to all the cheap aftermarket replacement filters when you say to be careful of counterfeits?
I just did mine the other day, and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't reset. I did not see the 'OK' until I tried it about 5 times.... Then I realized I had to switch to the 'OK' before hitting the right arrow...... Oh well, you live and learn.
So far your video on fuel filter change has lined up with my own changes perfectly. I always watch first to refresh my shaky memory.
A thousand views and not one thumbs down. See Marion, your awesome.
Thanks again Marion for another fine production!
You made a comment that it's in your nature to over tighten stuff. Me too. I've had seasoned mechanics tell me to not cinch filters with anything but your hands. I never listen and pay for it when it's time to take it off. Especially with these damn oil filters...
Ha, yea me too. But I never had one come lose, quick change did on my son's car.
Yep. I think Harambe the gorilla put my last separator on. Took me a half hour to get the bitch off.
Thank you, Marion! Love and appreciate your videos! I'm cracking up on this one with your self-deprecating humor. Takes a real man to be able to laugh at himself! 👍🤣
Timely video-my message light for fuel filter change just came on! I too just let the filter drain-the clear tube didn’t work for me either. Keep up the good work!
Seems no matter how many times you video a project such as filter changes you most often make some improvements to the process which really helps me. Thanks again for the tricks and tips!
Glad I came across this came across this
I just got me a 2016 Dodge Cummins heavy duty turbocharged bighorn very insightful very helpful a lot better than trying to read the manual and trying to piece together what it's trying to tell me even though I can figure it out it's good to always see some visual stuff as well
I have a 2019 ram - i let it go double on the filters one time - no problems and they looked really good when they came out - I am careful about the diesel I put in - only mainstream stations I use - ram may be selling products that cost way too much - I only use napa gold filters in all my stuff - cars / trucks / tractors / backhoes / bikes / ATVs and all - they only use the best company's - been doing so for many decades - never a moments trouble - good show my friendly acquaintance - camera work is a lot better than some -- makes it easier for all of us --
Good stuff. Changing out the fuel filters is the first project. Thanks for the guidance.
You still are the man, making great helpful videos. I really appreciate your time and effort. Thanks a million. Wish you had a "Thanks" on your videos. I would donate.
Once again your videos have really helped me out. Thank you Marion.
I appreciate this tutorial.
Thanks so much for posting info on these trucks. You saved me a huge amount vs paying the dealer!
Hi Marion
We're in the market to purchase a RAM 2500 with the 6.7 diesel for our bumper pull. I've been doing a lot of research on 6.7 maintenance so I will have a pretty good idea on what to expect as a diesel owner. I've been watching few of your videos and had to comment on the Ridgid tool you used as a filter wrench. I would have never thought to use that strap wrench for a filter wrench. Back in the day I had one in my tool box for plasti-bond conduit. I gave it away thinking I would never need it again, LOL. I see now once I make the RAM 2500 purchase I'll go ahead and grab a strap wrench too.
Thanks for the videos, I find them very useful.
I saw one at lowes the other day that looks very much like the Ridgid. I think it was in the plumbing area.
Hallo Marion, different topic going back to tire replacement. Do you think it's ok to take off the four wheels from my dual axle travel trailer and temporarily put on my two spares ( thus having only one on each side) while I bring the four old ones to the shop for mount and balance new ones? Basically is it safe for the trailer to be supported and kept parked stationary temporarily by only two wheels instead of all four. Also, the tires I have on it now are the original ones (made in 2014/2015) that came with my 2015 Keystone Outback that have no more than five thousand miles on them. They still have very good tread and minimal if any cracks on the sidewalls. Their brand is called Trialer King. Do I even need to replace them now or should I just wait till I put another five or ten thousand miles and they get older. Thanks again, best, Happy and safe RVing. 🌞
I would replace them. I've seen blow outs take out hydraulic and electrical lines and even saw one go thru the floor. I think I talked about this in my Maxxis video. Trailer King and all the China bombs are ok as long as you keep the tire pressure at the max on the side of the tire. If you've got enough block, you can block up the both sides and let the wheels hang, it won't hurt them as long as you are on the frame. I can jack up both wheels with a bottle jack from the middle of the tires and block it there with one set of blocks. Make sure the balance the new on as a lot of dealers don't do it unless you tell them.
@@MarionBlair Thanks much for your fast response. So to be on the safe side you're recommending i put new tires on even though they look fine? I DEFINITELY believe in safety always first. I found a four pack on Amazon for $312. I'll put the link below. But you probably still advise getting Maxxis? Any other top brand you can recommend? I heard Sailuns, Carlile Radial Trail HD, Goodyear Endurance are excellent. The following link is a recent UA-cam list of the top five trailer tires. ua-cam.com/video/Z8Q7vOZd6n4/v-deo.html I'm wondering if trailer tires are rated for how many miles they will wear like tow vehicle tires are ie. 30,000 , 40,000 etc.? Thanks www.amazon.com/Premium-WINDA-Trailer-Tires-Featured/dp/B01MD2C4QI Here is a very interesting UA-cam link by BigTruckBigRV which if they will fit my 15" rims I'm very interested in. ua-cam.com/video/RZfVmnnRkjE/v-deo.html BigTruckBigRV put this video out. He says they don't come in the size I have on now which is ST 225/75 R15. I need to know if the size they come in will fit my aluminium rims and what the differences will be. They are the Goodyear Cargo G26. They are only D rated and come ST 225/70 R15 which, I think will bring the trailer a bit lower. Tough to find the truth. Thanks
First time I changed my rear fuel filter I got reminded about the effects of vacuum... when fuel stopped coming out of the petcock valve I stupidly enough closed it and cranked loose the filter. What happened next y'all can probably figure out yourself... my face was silky smooth afterwards - by far the most efficient facial treatment I've ever had.
I have let mine run down the hose for a couple years now. I need to find a Tupperware. I drop it with a ziploc bag around it. Works OK.
Another great video sir.
Hey, good idea!
Hey, good idea!
The drain only drains the water out. What happens if you take off the bottom valve b4 taking off the filter- will that "drain" the filter? Last time I removed rear filter, diesel sprayed out all over making a mess!
Best video on UA-cam on this. Thank you.
So I did the front one by itself, and did the whole ignition on and off and everything went great, but couldn’t do the rear one because it was late. Do I have to do the same procedure to the rear one? Or should I put diesel on the rear one when I put it in?
sorry, I know the subject of the video is different, but I would like to ask a question. my 2010 Ram 3500 diesel, when I accelerate the front it seems to be light. is it too much swag what could it be?
empty, that front end is about 5K. Maybe some loose linkage?
Nice work Marion! Just replaced my front tank float on the 1997 f350 turbodiesel. Fuel gauge now seems to work. Forgot to connect the plug and at first I was upset.
Is it ok and no damage if we put the bottle jack to the shackle between the two wheels on the travel trailer?
I had to change my float gauge on my 95 Ram 2500. Yes that's where I put it. Just jack on the camper frame not the axles.
@@MarionBlair Got it, makes sense to jack from the solid I beam frame not a more fragile axle. Have you ever heard of Hercules tires? Hercules HT- 901 all steel 15" tire.ua-cam.com/video/WCSt74AzDuU/v-deo.html I hear you had bad luck with Goodyear tires. Alot of people had troubles with their Marathon. Supposedly their Endurance is a much better tire. I hear the Endurance has very little tread depth however. I'm sceptical about this. I like a good, safe amount of tread depth. I'd think it's safer in rain and would last longer too? Thanks, have a good weekend 🌞
A little off topic, I watched your videos about the foam and baffle inside the air intake, and given all the research and work you put in, I won't be putting a CAI in, I am curious to know though what your thoughts are on the drop in filters vs the oem filters inside the oem air box, are the drop in filters really that beneficial, or with the increased air flow, are they just allowing more particulate to pass through to the turbo.
If you are referring to drop in filter as like a reusable (K & N), No they allow more air flow but also more dirt. Stick with OEM, personal opinion.
@@MarionBlair thats exactly what I was referring to, and thats the exact answer I was looking for, thank you
Marion Great Video. Do you know if they sell water separators that are see thru or transparent? Semi- trucks have the see thru separators where you could see the water separated from the fuel? I'm looking for one. This way you can look to see how much water has separated and when to drain it. That would be cool if they sold one. Maybe someone out there would know. Thanks again
Racor sells them. Don't know about where to mount it. BTW, Racor makes the one on the rams 13 thru 18. Racor is the best water sep you can get. Virtually every vessel in the ocean has a Racor. www.google.com/search?q=racor&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS975US975&oq=racor&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i20i263i512l2j0i512l7.1401j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
@@MarionBlair The '19 & newer trucks have a rear water separator made by Parker. Doesn't Parker own Racor? I'm not too sure but it may be a Racor as well. It does the job because my front filter is always clean at 15k mile intervals.
Action Packed and Fun Filled! Thank you Sir!
Hey Marion, it Doug Stephen friend. Ty is my birth name. Anyhow. I am using a CAT oil filter on my 6.7 . No adapter it screws right on. 2 micron filtration and there built a lot better than any other filter. Part # 396-4596.
Looks like yours came off easy after you broke it loose. My 2014 is a fight all the way to the end of the threads, have to wedge myself between the frame and dpf on the exhaust to get a good enough grip and break it loose
Threads ok?
I know this has nothing to do with this video but i can not find anything about how to do a coolant flush on my 2015 cummins. I cant seem to find the radiator drain plug and have heard conflicting info as to wether my truck even has one, i also cant find a tutorial on how to bleed the air from the system and there is no radiator cap so I’m wondering if you fill from the coolant reservoir if that fills the radiator? Need to get this maintenance done and it’s stressing me out, just wondering if your 2014 is similar and if you have any advice. Thanks.
The drain is on the driver's side on the side of the radiator. I'm going to have to do mine soon, I'll do a video.
If truck is telling me about water in feul, the only way is to replace feul filters or can I just drain them?
You can just drain it if the message clears
Changed both fuel filters…no start….tried your priming method in the fuse box…no fuel is getting to front filter. Any ideas? Check valve not working in rear filter is my thought. 2018 60,000. How does that valve function? I am going to get a strap wrench to see if I can tighten it more. Maybe a bad filter that won’t open the check valve.
Sounds possible. Is that a mopar oem filter
It’s got to be the rear filter. I’d take it back off and look inside and see that the little probe that pushes the check valve up is not missing or broken.
Thanks….I will check today and let you know. I bought them on eBay. They look like Oem, but I’m thinking the price was too good. I complained to the seller and his reply was in Chinese.
@@DavidSmith-pw8lm If it’s the OEM, you’ll have to push up on the filter to get the threads started. Be careful not to cross thread it but it’s straight forward. You can feel the check valve open when you pushing up, if you can’t, wrong filter or aftermarket.
Bought filters from dealer, compared them to eBay filters, installed them, did your priming method….truck started first try. To note, when comparing the filters and their packaging side by side they do look legit. The differences on the packaging are eBay was brighter and glossier paper and the one difference was the dealer one had a date stamp on the box. The lettering was close but had some flaws. Now to the front filter: the eBay one looked almost exact except for it did not have the part number laser engraved on the top. The inner lining was a greenish colored mesh which did not have as much restriction as oem. The measurements on it were close but the ball pin was a bit more. The rear filter looked exact except for a silver unpainted edge where the canister was crimped to the base. It was missing a o-ring in the center hole which explains the ease if it going on. The ball pin was recessed 5mm deeper which could account for it not functioning. In the end I am glad the truck did not start…..they were junk. Buyer beware. Thanks for your help
Thank you Marion for this very useful video!. Now the MOPAR set is close to $ 200 in AMAZON!, ...that's to much for my wallet, so I'll give a chance to the KOROP Chinese brand ($ 32)...hoping my 6.7 does not suffer any harm...🤞
Bob Ross? Can you say "beat that brush" two three times. Yup , you are channelling Bob.
Hey Marion. I am noticing my 2014 2500 fuel filer life is following oil life in the last year or so. Before I could go two oil changes before a fuel filter change, now it seems to be one for one. Old girl is getting up there in age but my driving/towing has not changed much in the last five years. Any thoughts on that?
Not off hand. I think the gauge just track miles of to 15K
That's interesting. I agree with Marion that it appears that the fuel filter life indication on these trucks simply counts miles and tells you the filters need to be changed when you get to 15,000. I wonder if your scenario says something about the oil life indication and how oil life is determined by the truck. The manual says to change the oil every 15k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. I change it every 6 months and that usually coincides with somewhere around 7,000 to 8,000 miles, and at that time the oil life indication tells me I have somewhere around 50% oil life. So I have always assumed that the oil life indicator just counted miles as well, just like the fuel filters. Maybe this is something you'd want to keep an eye on to see if you notice that the oil life is not dropping linearly with miles. My thoughts on the oil life indicator are obviously highly speculative and based on assumptions.
Does a 2008 3500 6.7 diesel have a great filter
Yes, it's a good one
I used the same bucket method after the First Messy Filter change with diesel dripping everywhere.
On my next fuel filter change I think I will fill the rear filter with diesel. Hopefully it will cut down on ignition cycles.
Yea, or do it this way. ua-cam.com/video/5K26zXB64Mw/v-deo.html
What exact tub are you using? I end up getting a diesel bath every time I do my rear filter. Finding something to fit up there has eluded me thus far. lol As usual thanks for sharing.
Have have a video on that
@@MarionBlair I saw your video after I posted the question above. 😊 As usual thank you for being your thorough self. 😎
Thanks, Marion, for another instructive video. I agree that the "bucket and no-drainhose method" saves you one unnecessary and messy step, so probably the better way to do it.
On another note, you've now got me all freaked out about the "counterfeit" filters on the market. I've been buying my filter sets on Amazon for about $130 bucks and they come in sealed Mopar boxes with O-rings, etc. They all APPEAR to be legit Mopar parts, but is there some way to tell if you're getting counterfeit parts? Or, were you referring to all the cheap aftermarket replacement filters when you say to be careful of counterfeits?
Yea, that's what I meant, the cheap aftermarkets that make you think you're getting an OEM equivalent. I do the same as you.
Great video
What do you do with the fuel that you capture?
Don’t put it back in the engine use it to start your burn pit or whatever you do but don’t reuse it
I use a big funnel with a piece of 3/4 heater hose on the bottom of the funmel crack the filter and let it fall into the funnel no mess
Very helpful thanks
I was thinking Stringbean ;-)
How often do you change them?
15,000 miles
Folgers can works great
The Cajun bob ross
Great how to
thank you!
I just did mine the other day, and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't reset. I did not see the 'OK' until I tried it about 5 times.... Then I realized I had to switch to the 'OK' before hitting the right arrow...... Oh well, you live and learn.
Me too, it takes me a couple of tries
You should always roll the o/ring after it is installed in place
I think if you get the filters from Geno’s Garage it’s pretty safe they are the real Mopar parts.
Yes, agree
@@MarionBlair I enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
I have 2011 and it don’t have fuel water separateor.
Paid 132$ and 63$ for my fuel filters from the dealer for 2019 6.7 2500
Great video