DIY Metal 3D Printer
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2021
- I know what everyone's getting for christmas this year! (barnacles)
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With robotic MIG welding we typically program a pause at the end of a weld bead where weld settings change to less heat, more wire feed to fill the end crater that develops.
Heavy base plate to suck the heat out would be helpful. You could even do a water cooled fixture plate if you wanted.
Also, an aluminum plate with some heat sinks in the bottom and air blown over those would help cool as well without blowing out the shielding gas
@@thirstybike ehhh who needs shielding gas
I think industrial grade 3D printers that utilizes this kind of arc welding method always integrates with a CNC milling machine, so after building a few layers the material it can be milled to very high precision.
There should be a setting in the slicer to random start locations. It helps with visual seams and strength. That could help with sinking of the bead.
Man, such a simply but smart solution! I'll have to find me a slicer with that option
@@cranktowncity What slicer do you use?
@@bioshift1 I got the old-school creality one, 1.2.3
@@cranktowncity I believe that's cura. You should be able to set it in z seam under alignment. To random or otherwise.
Prusa slicer has a random seam option in the slicer.
That half-sphere was really impressive for some garage project built on ender 3. I think you proved that hobby grade metal 3d printer is totally doable, hope we will see them on the market some day.
This is insanely good. I'm looking forward to seeing improvements on this project. Great job, man!
Your tenacity as you proceed through step-wise refinements is quite impressive. Adapt, innovate and overcome.
This was fantastic! I just thought to myself, "I wonder if anyone's hooked up a welder to a 3D printer?" So I do a search and bam! Here it is! Great job!
I saw someone else try this... Integza?
Metal Matters is trying to do an actual powder laser based system. But these welder based systems are really interesting, as it should be quite simple.. its just a lot of dialing
Yea integza tried
"who's that Pokemon?" "It's Ditto (Kill me)" you just made me shit my pants while laughing man
The Pokémon thing had me laughing my as off. I really thought my video randomly changed on me. That was really good! Best of luck on this brother!
That made my day 😭
I just found your channel and I love it! It's great to see a fellow tinkerer, especially someone who's doing such cool things.
You are a genius and a madman! This was highly entertaining and also quite impressive
From what ive seen people say that an argon filled environment helps a lot.
So maybe a case full of argon made of tinted glass/acrylic could be helpful
you can also just crank the esteps to up how much it extrudes per mm, for example if you double it, it will move the extruder double what it should be. or instead of using fan pins theres laser, and cnc support in marlin using different gcode, so you could wire the the trigger from the welder to those using a relay. Or something like that.
dude, awesome ideas, thank you. especially like the idea of a tinted enclosure, my eye sockets need a break!
@@cranktowncity Welding machines for doing TIG push a stream of Nitrogen or Argon directly onto the weld. These can be had for MIG as well which is what he is doing here. This is simply a case of getting a new welder with Gas line and a Cup for the tip which holds the gas around the end. This would save you the headaches of trying to make a full box of gas.
@@seditt5146 There seems to already be a an inert gas line feeding this torch, see at about @8:20 and it is the clear hose coming in from the side.
I guessed there was no gas coverage earlier in the video, with the crappy looking aluminium weld-beads, but that could also been from trying to use argon/co2 mix (which is for steel) instead of argon or argon/helium mix.
Awesome work man, hope to see you keep trying at this, would be awesome to see you pushing the diy metal printer industry :D, also try cura slicer, its free and it has SO MANY settings to play with, whether it be speeds, pauses, where you start each seam, etc. Good luck bro
you have that itch...
great to see you just doing stuffs... love them
love the professionalism in this video
Gettin it man. Saw another one of your vids the other week that worked for me also. Thanks 👍🏾
Now that was entertaining, great stuff man!
This is an awesome idea, excited to see where it goes...
Finally I have found a gem of a UA-cam channel
Outstanding work my man! Keep it up!
First time viewing any of your videos so far, and yep 👍 I just Subscribed. Keep up the good work. You da man ✌️😎
Really enjoyed the content, keep doing it man!
this will get hell a lot views, and it deserves it. nice video thx for sharing
As a practical machine that was.... erm.... y'know.... erm..... well.... not so good.
But as a proof of concept.... a right hum dinger!
Keep up The Great Work.
The Pokémon reference was GOLD and about did me in XD
Ghetto engineering is the best kind of engineering 🤩
Great vid man, kept it interesting the whole way. Some people just sound like the teacher from bueller’s day out. 😴
AWESOME MAN! Great work. Keep it up!
Woah! Those parts almost look like they were machined.
Your channel popped up for me to check out. Very interesting and you make it entertaining. I look forward to more of your videos. keep it up.
Impressive project! Im sure it can be perfected.
Well that was highly entertaining and educational. You got another subscriber
Great concept. My thoughts are stick with Mig, it's going to be much easier than Tig. Then work on being able to control your Amps and wire feed. Ramping the Amps down once it gets running should be possible as it's already carrying heat. Maybe to start with do it man to prove concept. I can see a cnc welder/plasma cutter in the making. Stick with it, it's gonna be excellent.
Very cool, I think the algorithm must have caught you because I got this video of a suggestion. I subscribed and I'm watching your other stuff.
You are crazy - but people like you move things forward.
I love strightforward manners, congratulations
pokemon will always be proud of you work
You're like the bobby duke arts of fabricating. It's fascinating.
I'm impressed, Very !
Rulof from Italy sent me here.
He made me see a MIG welder on a bedslinger, tracing what looked like the first layer of a 5x scaled benchy. I was impressed to say the least!
Yess can’t wait to print a metal benchy 👍👍👍
New Subscriber - I imagined seeing 1milliion subs already. Great stuff dude!
Maybe you should try "spot weld", then fan, then a new "spot weld", and so on.
Dude amazing
Nice haha I've seen other people attempt this, looks like you did better than most
Reverse the path every layer? Would even out the heat concentration.
THIS IS THE MOST TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCED VIDEO I EVER SEE 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣😍😍😍😍
This will work to print large print that don’t require precisions 😊
Have a daenger 👍. Why not welding with spots and a little pause when there will be some pressurised air blowing onto welding area?
Just curious what's going to be in the next video.
Pretty dang good for a first attempt 😀
you make a fantastic ditto
Could you make the weld start at different points each run? Like stagger the hot points?
Very good attempt man.
That’s awesome
Great video man gotta post to mess with the analytics for ya, I hope your at or past 10k by Christmas, you may as well live out my dream getting paid to mess around with stuff!
Thanks man!
This is why I sub.
I have an idea for cooling the system using a liquid nitrogen cooler, placed right under the 3D printed baseplate, what do you think? The printing base stays cool and cools the printed object at the same time
I busted up laughing when your pencil melted under temp load.
Hey man.... What do you know a out electrochemical machining or ECM??? Love to see how you can twist that one
Well, the example you based your idea off of was much larger. Maybe this is one of those things that has to be done in a larger scale?
The G code is set up for plastics to heat up and cool down in as short of time as possible but still maintain a certain rigidity. Steal would need more time to cool down so on a larger scale with the same settings this would make metals more manageable. Or option B would be to make your smaller prints in a much colder environment like in a refrigerator, a walk in freezer or Antarctica.
Next problem would be how to pull your build off of the build plate. With PLA or ABS it cools down and is easier to pull off an aluminum plate. With your set up you would have to cut off the piece. So for the thumb printing, you would need to cut it off or add bridges to raise it off of the platform...but still have to cut it off. But it may need less grinding work that way?
Love the maverick style of inventing your way through a challenge by using stuff already sitting around!
Would there be any advantages to having an X and Y base with a Z nozzle or would it still have the same outcome? Would curved surfaces like your sphere be better if the G code were to cool down the material once the welds were in closer proximity to prevent the molten metal mishaps?
Again, love the content! Thank you for your channel!
A lot of good ideas her, thanks man!
In the big example, they have developed software that calculates all the weird heating/cooling distortions that take place and adjusts the printing accordingly.
So its not the size scale that magically makes their tech work. There's much more to it.
do you tried water mist for cooling? or water cooling for a table? and I guess would be better to use aluminum rather than steel. because aluminum have lower melting temperature and it good thermal conductor
i think you could either try post-processing code doing z hops after set travel distance to do actual beads or set up pauses with both the weld gun and the ground to print in pulses but who knows
Pretty cool. I wonder if you printed objects at the maximum size for the bed if that would let them cool more. The wall thickness would be a smaller fraction of the overall objects size and probably wouldn't retain as much heat.
That or that blower fan on the object. Instead of the board. It should help but it will blow away the shielding gas... Which could be fixed by fluxcore maybe
Dude that is überawesome!
If you set the z seam to random in your slicer it will put the beginning and end in a different place each time which will mitigate the issue you're having
What you need is part cooling. Let the fan blow on the part during printing then it won't sag as much. Great project!
The wire releases gas as it melts, which forms a bubble around the metal to keep the oxygen away from the weld (he said this in the video). If you try to use a fan, it would blow away the protective gas and weaken the weld.
@@RussellBeattie Then part cool with a similar enough gas to keep the welds strong. Get creative.
Which slicer do you use? Did you know CraftWare Pro? That thing can be tweaked like no other slicer.
Pretty cool! Seems like a similar concept to WAAM (wire arc additive manufacturing), but seeing it on an ender 3 is much cooler!
Sir you are amazing 👏
I wonder if you could use thinner wire with better results and cooling, along with some of the other ideas in the comments. Definitely works better than I thought it would have though!
Dude you are a genius ;)
Interesting!
Have you thought about just printing something with a bigger area that would give the material time to cool before the second pass maybe removing the need for a pause? Say a cube the size of the bed plate.
If you just timed hot fast the bead heats up the plate, you could just program the steppers to speed up the metal after a certain amount of seconds
Can you please name the welder you have used in this video?
Have you tried doing a tack weld? I have done a progressive tack style that looked like a tig bead. kind of like a line of coins. clearly that continues bead is too hot. Set up a pulse cycle of, say one second where 2 tns. is weld and 8 tns. is cool down. Mess with it that way with different combos. You are way smarter than me, I can't even set up a regular printer, but I've welded the seam on a power-saw muffler, very thin, and it came out nice using Mig. Just a thought.
Nice Job!
I believe that with different welder that you can condrol the voltage you end with better quality
so how ya get it off the build plate
How the bloody hell did I miss this?! Didn't even get a goddamn notification!
Thanks for trying and sharing, keep it up I have subscribed :)
Had me laughing the entire video 😂
Come down to prescott, we can totally get this working
Die Idee ansich ich cool aber dein ditto ist dir sehr gut gelungen 😀
Very very interesting.
You can easily adjust the feed by modifying the step/mm value on the extruder (firmware side) having a properly managed feedrate is mandatory if you want to achieve anything and by tweaking the retraction speed and length (slicer side) you might alleviate some of the weld bead and obviously get the power supply out of there it's going to fry
this is the answer. change the esteps. problem solved
It’s a start. We’ll be able to print metal alloys soon… i hope 😊
Smaller wire means less heat. Ceramic or fire brick material bed clad with tungsten, with active cooling like what is used in steel mill furnaces. I would also enclose the print volume with shaded materialfor uniformity of heat, eye protection, and shield gas retention. That allows even more cooling below the bed. Swap the rubber wheels out for ceramic or perhaps high temperature silicone? Drive belts will be an issue due to heat as well. A flexible temperature resistant material, or consider rack and pinion or other linear gear setup to replace the drive belts. I would also recommend relocating the stepper motors further away from the print area. The heat will likely destroy them quickly. Just extend the linear gear portion to mesh with the gear mounted to the stepper motor further away from the heat source. I'd do the same thing for the limit switches. And absolutely if you can control wire feed via the stepper, I would. I bet the drive rolls from the welder could be adapted to fit the motor that normally feeds the extruder. Mine already has a spring loaded tensioner . The drive rolls for metal wire I imagine need considerably more force than plastic to accurately feed without slippage.
All you need to do is set the extruder flow rate, or do volumetric extrusion which is based on the filament or wire diameter
maybe cold welding with argon closure environment box thing?
use a TIG torch with the 3d printer stepper to do the dabbing. less aggressive and more control
What about a tig machine with wire feed?
I think the speed has to be higher, also there has to be a good fan to cool the soldering filament instantly there shouldn't be this red macula after it is soldered, while this red means that it will deform with the next layer , if it cools instantly it will not deform, the heat has to be only at the welding point it does not have to expand to nearby points, that is just my think and your idea is genius
i love his attitude... "the skillset required is clearly beyond what i'm capable of... but fuck it"
Amazing.love it. looking for anycubic printer but i hope these will get cheaper as its way too much for me, dont even have the tools dont know abouw welding either
The guys at Relativity would be proud 😉
+1 for the Ryobi cordless drill!
That’s fucking awesome !
I think that tig torch would be better way to go ,and then make a wire feeder for it like mig has.EWM has a auto wire feeder on some of their machines.Maybe thats the way to go.
It would use a country supply worth of argon.