Every day there is some new technology coming out, it's hard to keep up. Having the ability to make just about anything you can dream up is pretty incredible. I still want to try to make some of these parts by hand, though I don't think mine will compare. It's good to have some perspective and go through the processes people used to use. I want to try using lost-resin for a casting method with aluminum, I think it could produce pretty good results with a vacuum below the mold. I also like the idea of printing with resin for high precision parts to see if that's a good way to prototype parts with extremely tight tolerances and clearances.
12:00 The "looseness" of the wrench is actually a blessing as you don't have to line it up exactly in order to get on the nut. Been there done that. Sso I can call you what my boss called me, overachiever!
I've been using it for the last few days now that the lathe is working and so nice and clean, and it works great, with the 2 wrenches I leave on the carriage lock and have the other ready to engage the gears, I wasn't really thinking that I would use both, but I'm kind of glad I have them. I see a lot of potential with metal 3D printing. I hope we can get something for home use, but it might be a while. I'll accept Overachiever! I was told that I was being a bit critical over the parts, but I think that's better than being too easy on them. I have the brass cross-slide nut installed now and it is so nice and smooth and so little backlash now on that parts, what a big difference from the way I was using it a month ago.
Great video.... I rebuilt an abused 9" model A South Bend lathe 41 years ago. Cleaned and painted, rescraped the bed, cross slide and compound, made a new cross feed nut (chased the acme thread) and made a thread dial. The correct length automotive multi V fan belt run inside out or on the tops of it's Vs works well as a replacement for the leather flat belt. While I now have bigger and better lathes I still use my old friend, my 1951 9" South Bend. Today my shop also has 4 3D plastic printers.....
This was a very interesting show. I'd suggest to make a video about the design process of prototyping in plastic and having the part made by a third party in metal. How you design the tolerances and any tips and tricks. That would be awesome.
Thank you so much, every bit helps! I have plans to make a video on that subject, I want to show how to take an old part, design it from scratch, and then 3D print it and then we can get it manufactured as well to compare. If there is something specific you're looking for, I'd be happy to look at it.
This is the most useful and informative videos regarding SLS and CNC part machining services that I have seen. I really liked how you described each part, and how close the dimensions of the parts matched your specifications. It seems that the printed metal parts need some post-machining (similar to some metal castings) if you need tighter tolerances. I am also VERY grateful that you posted PCBWay's prices on these parts; honestly, I was very impressed with the low cost of these parts, especially the collet chuck piece. It is remarkable how accessible these processes have become to ordinary consumers.
I'll be using them again, and I am willing to try other companies as well to compare. Ideally I would have paid for everything and I think when my channel gets to a point where income is more sustainable, I will give this another try and pay for the parts myself. I also want to try some very precise parts and see if maybe using a resin printer for my prototype would be a good option for let's say the threaded areas to make sure that everything fits before I order anything. Using FDM works for the most part, but overhangs on threads is a tough area. I wanted the video to show the parts themselves, along with any issues, and I think it did a pretty good job, the metal 3D prints were impressive, but there were some little issues with tolerance and knowing that can make the difference between a success and a fail. Hopefully it added some value.
@@PCBWayGreat choice to support this project and this maker! This video did more to inform me about your capabilities than all the other videos I’ve seen about your 3D printing and machining services combined! It not only answered questions about capabilities and tolerances but gave a good idea of approximate costs for the type of parts many people would turn to you to fabricate. (You should feature this video on your website if you haven’t already done so. It’s an extremely effective illustration of the utility and value of your services, and includes some very useful tips as well. Huge kudos to you and the creator both! I hope you’ll consider becoming a paid sponsor of his to support his channel and his work: This one video will surely lead to many new customers for you over time (especially if you can leverage it on your website or in other marketing campaigns), and many thousands of dollars of business going forward. I hope you’ll be able to support his future efforts in any way that makes sense for both of you. I don’t personally have an immediate need, but will _absolutely_ be a customer in the future!)
Hey, that's great, I'm glad you thought so, I wanted to show a variety of parts and materials and show them so that you can see for yourself. I was kind of like a kid opening presents on Christmas day being able to design something and then have it made from metal is pretty amazing, I love to 3D print at home, but making parts from metal just gives it that more heirloom feel.
I live about 19 miles from where your lathe was made. I always like to hear of someone working to keep one running. I went to school with some kids with parents that worked there 50 years ago.
Nice, it's a beautiful machine! I find myself cleaning it quite a bit now, so there it a downside to going through that process of restoring it. I love to bring these old machines back to life, there was so much care taken in making them, and all from hand-made molds and real blueprints. I think people working on those days were far more skilled than we give credit for.
I know this is an older video and comment, but thanks for sharing. I have one 9" South Bend lathe that I have been using for 30 years in beautiful condition and another that is rough and needs work. This video has me thinking about all kinds of options with this new tech.
It's unbelievable that all of that was made and even shipped for less than $500. Makes one consider what paltry wage the machinists and operators making it are getting and how many hours they have to work every week to pull off that quick turnaround
I have actually been using MJF SLS and Metal printing for finalized products for the last few years, I have enjoyed the process its been really cool to take my components and parts to the next level, threading has been the biggest concern I have ran into which takes a bit of finesse.
Major aircraft builders are studying 3D metal printing as an alternative and even replacement for forgings. Aerospace aerostructure forgings require specific mechanical properties as designated by designer's stress analysis. Besides having a new 3D printed part duplicate an original, it would be beneficial to see if a 3D printed tool can hold up to destructive strength tests as well as a forged tool. A major cost to the F35 program are the cost of forgings that are made from triple melted premium titanium at a cost of close to $20/lb and more at the billet stage, so any reduction in the cost of this metal is of great interest to aircraft builders.
Thanks Kevin! I bit off a lot to try and have thee restoration done for the video, and in the end we got it done! Hopefully showing the parts with all of the detail as well as measurements helped someone who might decide to go down this path as well.
By far the best vid I’ve seen about professionally 3D printer and machined parts from PCB Way (or others for that matter). I especially appreciated the measurements and list of prices for all the parts, that was incredibly useful as it finally gave me an idea of what such parts might cost. Very well done, PCB Way should be well-pleased by your partnership, and I felt your evaluation was very objective as well. (This must hold the record for the most prep time for a YT video: Man wants to do a video on 3D printed parts. Man completely rebuilds his lathe. Man reviews the parts. 😂) (BTW, did you re-scrape the ways, or did they actually have that little wear?)
Wow! I think this is the best overview of PCBWay capabilities, especially in terms of metal parts, I have seen. Most results were very impressive, with minor exceptions being the flared wrench opening and the lack of ability to tap or machine the specific threads you needed. That collet chuck is crazy nice. Plus, I recently got quotes on a CNC aluminum part and PCBWay was one of the most affordable. $426 is so reasonable for all of that. So really, they seem like a solid option. It's sad we can't offer services like theirs for any kind of reasonable price in the USA. Would be great for our local businesses to have a lot more work like this. Still, really cool this is an option at all.
Thanks,! I want to do a follow up video as well where I order a bunch of different parts and pay for them when I have enough income to do that, it would be nice to see what the results look like when they're ordered as if I were a regular paying customer. For the metal parts, it might be nice for them to give a better heads up on their site, I'll mention that to them about the 3D printed metal parts, I had another look yesterday and didn't see anything that indicated that there would be warpage or shrinkage, I would imagine it would be hard to predict on custom parts, but just a simple note to be aware, it could make the difference for a successful print. I agree I'd much prefer to have something made locally, I should price one of the parts out to see, but I imagine at least in Canada, it'd be one part for the total, and I'd want to pick it up to avoid the high shipping costs here.
@@ObservationofLimits What's your issue? I've literally never even contacted PCBWay except for by getting an automated quote. You try getting those parts cheaper elsewhere with reasonable quality. I'll wait.
The parameters in metal additive printing (SLS, SLM, DMP) really change the quality of the surface, but the density and strength as well. The business I work for is doing parts for aerospace, medical, defense, and other industries. The real magic for this printing is making complex parts and then machining additional features to specs that the printers simply can't do. Cool wrenches, had me looking for where the supports were placed on them.
Now when can we order our own metal 3D printer! I guess we can but they're huge and horribly expensive. I want to do some 3D prints become casting videos too coming up, it's at least an interim solution. There is a resin meant just for lost-resin casting that can produce excellent results apparently.
@@NeedItMakeIt Main problem metal has is the very high temperatures needed that make it unsafe for home/hobby usage. Also happens with plastics…higher you go with temperatures the better performance (peek, ulteem, etc). Thanks for your great contribution to 3dprinting world 🙏🏻
Those prices are great; Thank you for doing so many different materials! That short chuck was smart and a great example of what 3d printing can create. Also Nice paint job👌
Thanks! it took me a good 40 hours to fully restore it. Getting all of that grease off was a real pain, I'm not going to let it get that bad again! It's so nice to use now. It needs a new bench with proper storage to go with it.
I got and old Southbend bench lathe in 1989, it was stolen in 1996. I think about it 52 weeks per year since then. I am planning to make an improved hammer and trigger for an old revolver. This 3d thing seems to fit like a glove.
It must have been a nice machine! That's too bad, that's a 2-3 person job to steal a machine of that size and weight, they must have thought it was worth the risk. 3D metal printing could make those parts, but I believe there are restrictions around making parts for weapons. I'll have to experiment a bit more with 3D printing metals because it is going to be something we'll be able to do at home in the future, the possibilities are endless, from making machinery to making car parts, it's going to be amazing!
@@NeedItMakeIt In Brazil only slides, frames, barrels and cylinders are restricted; hammers, sears, firing pins and even magazines are not (despite our commies, some people say we are the next Venezuela, and they may be right). The lathe was the easiest task, they took a two ton Schaudt grinding machine and a huge Bernardini safe too... Brazil is a no man's land believe me. We have so many crimes that police just gave up decades ago.
@@NeedItMakeIt The southbend was the easiest part. They took a 2 ton schaudt grinding machine, a Bernardini safe and much more. Brazil is a no man's land, police gave up many decades ago... too many crimes, a russian infantry wave, a tsunami of all kinds of crimes.
Thanks! This one was a bit of a long video, there was a lot to cover. I have the Brass cross-slide nut installed now and it is so nice to use, too bad I can only see the top of the part, but it threaded super nice, I was able to use the drill press to start the tap, and then finish it by hand to get it perfectly lined up. I think I'll have to explore this more but maybe next time with just one really complex part, something that anyone could use in their own homes maybe, if you have any ideas, I'm all ears.
@15:53 - You had multiple parts that had threading, and I was under the impression that all of these were 3d printed -without any post-processing on the part of PCBWay- and yet it became clear that there _could_ be post-processing done by PCBWay. (a) What post-processing did you have them do on all the parts? (b) Why didn't you have them print the threads on this piece?
Pcbway also has cnc capabilities, based on the tool marks on the brass and the fact he never mentioned them as 3d printed, my assumption is those were simply cnc machined not printed. And therefore it makes sense that he didn't thread them eventhough they could but it would have cost more for tooling. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that explains your question.
Also in his description it says some cnc machined parts are shown. My guess is the brass as well as the collet are cnc not 3d printed. He only says 3d print on the parts that were actually 3d printed.
@@newmonengineering That's right, sorry, I was using all of their services, I guess I should have covered that part in more detail... I wanted to get as many parts from as many different materials and processes as possible to test out the service adequately. I should have done a better job to talk about which parts were made from which process earlier in the video.
Thank you, I was surprised with how cheap some of the parts were. 3D printing in Titanium is pretty $$ but most other metals are very reasonable. I'd have to test out Titanium to see, maybe even a ring or belt buckle would be cool to see.
Great video! I have two 9" South Bend lathes, one in great shape, the other is a project... Could you please share where you purchased the cross slide tap from?
Excellent video! Great details on how the parts came out and I like that you shared the costs. Everyone goofs here and there. Nice job fixing the minor goof on the collet chuck. 👍 FYI, put a board on the bed ways when swapping chucks. If you accidentally drop the chuck, it protects the bed ways and the chuck a bit. Some people get fancy with it, but it's just there for protection. It can be somewhat locked in place with the tailstock as well.
Thanks for that! That tip is a very good one, even that 4 Jaw isn't that light. I'm building a new bench for the lathe too and I want to have a place for everything so I'll have a spot for a board to keep the ways in good shape. I need to take the spindle out again tomorrow to install the new belt, hopefully that allows me to drive it at high speed well; at the moment the leather doesn't do well at high speed, it slips too much. Great tip my friend, much appreciated!
@@NeedItMakeIt Glad to help. That's a lot of effort you've put into it! Hate seeing it get damaged by a simple accident. I hope to see it getting used in future videos. Be safe!
@@joegroom3195 That answers the question about why there were a few small marks in the ways in that area when I bought it, I'll be more careful than they were. I still need to redo the felts, but they're expensive to order, so I was going to order some from McMaster and and cut them myself. Thanks!
I think they did fairly good on everything but as far as deformation goes they should be the ones who compensate for it. They are the ones who so this work everyday so it seems like they would have a better grasp on how much to adjust for it. It seemed like a good price for all you had done also.
So interesting. You are an excellent teacher. Please help! I fix vintage sewing machines, rescuing them and making them usable for myself and others. Often we have nylon gears that inevitably crack with time. Taiwan is making too replacements but... still in nylon not metal. They are not cheap at $60 each for a mass produced small part. I have some questions. 1. If I replaced a nylon gear (gear slits are nylon, stem is steel) with an all metal gear, would the machine work fine? 2. Can I print this out in steel in a 3D printer? What other fancy tools would I need? Software graphics? 3. Who makes these gear parts in the US that would take on this work? 4. Do you know any Taiwan makers who could make them in metal - same plastic gear in metal instead? It would be a great service to sewing machines if we could solve this problem. Many thanks!!
Thanks for putting this together. I have a few ideas for obsolete parts for old machinery that would be nice to remake out of metal. Guess i'll have to jump into CAD and do some designing, print them on my Prusa to make sure they fit, and then get an offer to see if i want to commit fully to the project. Would be interesting to get an offer from a local cnc shop as well, just to compare the price, but looking at what you payed for the parts, i don't think a local shop can compete with that price if you think about setup and machining time and how much a machinist costs per hour.
What surface on the spindle registers center in the collet chuck? Certainly not just by the threads? If the spindle shoulder behind the threads, I t would seem you need to make a press on ring then machine it on the lathe to perfectly center. Then make the chuck to match the modified spindle.
That collet chuck looks beautiful. That thread dial is a nice piece. I agree that you should be able to sell those. Really nice quality. If you do remake the little wrench, flip the part number on the back to match the original.
I'm glad to have tried metal 3D printing and using their service, as long as you can design something, you can have it made pretty easily and it doesn't seem to break the bank. The metal 3D printing as a precision part is questionable, its something you'd want to post-process to final size, or make sure to design it in such a away to prevent warpage (More investigation is required). I guess I should adjust the design and send it away to have it remade. You have a very keen eye, you're the only person to notice that! When I saw it, I was shaking my head, I was pretty careful, but got caught up spending too much time trying to match the font, and not enough on orientation. For a good reproduction it should all be as close as possible. It was pretty good but could use a little more fine-tuning. I'm glad I have 2 of these small wrenches, I ordered them not for that reason, just as a test, but having 2 helps because I have one on the carriage lock at all times, which is pretty handy.
Can you share how you did the text embossing both positive and negative? Taper angle of extrusion of the 2d text? It seems to be rounded. I have had really bad results with 0.2mm layers.
The ER collet chuck is a fascinating build. Would like to see more about how you modelled it and how much runout it had. You state threads did not come out quite right, did you specify a standard thread size, or did you do something more custom? I would like to do the same for my South Bend 10R as it has an odd 1-7/8 x 8TPI spindle.
Ahhh tooo late. I already finished it. I started it in the drill press using a rod sized to the bore chucked up to get it positioned in my drill vise and then finished it by hand. I was very careful and used lots of oil to make sure not to break the tap. It turned out so well. I have so little backlash now and I made a new tapered set screw with a standard thread size and then used the original steel pin and the lock works. If I want to oil it, I can just remove the screw and add a dab. The original didn't have a method to oil, which is probably why there was so much wear. I have lots more tools that could use an upgrade, what should be next? I was thinking that my old General 490 Bandsaw could use some bearings for the blade support on each side rather than the current blocks. I could design a new upper and lower mount, maybe even integrate better dust collection into it while iIm at it.
Great video! I'm working on a hotend flow booster with some fancy inner geometry and can't get it manufactured en masse as it's designed by typical methods. Good to know it stands a chance!
Sounds awesome! The parts I had made are holding up well, and I think the tech will only get better from here, so there is a ton of potential here. I've been thinking about designing a ventilation system to draw in fresh air from outside, and I'd like to have the exchanger 3D printed with as much surface area as possible and from materials that can be cleaned and will allow condensation to collect and drip outside as well. At home, I don't think I have any materials that would do the job, but getting it made from metal could work really well with the right material.
Great video! I have a question about the painting process: What primer and paint did you use to paint the lathe? Did the paint adhere well and prove to be durable, considering the lathe is subject to impacts and scratches?
It makes no sense to me that make adjustments to allow for shrinkage on the wrench, how could you possibly know what, and how much to adjust? To me it would be pcbway that makes that adjustment, they are the ones to know what to expect
I may have missed it in the comments but was the modified design of the collet adapter posted somewhere? I've got an old Logan lathe that desperately needs an adapter for an ER-32 collet set
For some reason I can not upload my files on PCBWAY, both step and stl files don’t work and I have even tried from both my computer and IPad. Any tips?
Pretty impressive stuff, I used it to make reproduction parts, and that worked out well. I've love to use some of this tech to design our own parts using generative design to see where that leads too. I want to also come up with an idea for something that could be 3D printed from metal, that everyone needs in their home... I just don't know what that is. Something that needs to be strong and long-lasting. Not much is coming to mind at the moment unfortunately.
Hey Mike, love your videos! This one was a little more challenging to watch due to the auto focus re-adjusting frequently. Also, how are you going to distill a full lathe restore to just 30 seconds? I'm sure we all would have loved to see a full video on just that!
what paint did you use on the lathe? im restoring a south bend 9C from the same era (identical to yours, except mine has no gearbox) and theres enough wear in the paint I think its worth fully repainting. Your paint turned out fantastic!
If you release the design or decide to sell that ER32 collet chuck adapter, I would buy/order one in a heartbeat. I've got a SB 9C and have been planning on making one myself, but I'd gladly take the shortcut!
Do I understand your comments right…. the ER collet chuck was only $65? Seems like a screaming deal. 😊. After all your rework need to get it to fit, what did the runout measure. That’s always the trick for a collet chuck. Almost need to machine the registering features on the spindle it’s being used on to ensure minimal runout. Or make it adjustable 😜
Beleave it or not I have the same south bend lathe as you and I also went through it and rebuilt it 2 years ago. I also changed to a rubber belt that I had to cut down to make it narrow enough to fit the pullya. I love my little 9" lathe. If you would care to see them I could send you pictures of mine. Anyway I enjoyed your video. Keep it up.
My understanding is you generally don’t have any carbon or glass fiber infused parts to be rubbing moving parts. Because they will abrade away any contacting surfaces over time.
Nice work. Might have missed this but how much shrinkage did you have to account for? And how much did you have to file out? Your lathe looks awesome, want to do the same thing to my Myford soon. Should make a quick change collet holder too. Your in Canada, Edmonton by chance?
I have a Logan lathe and have been looking for a collet chuck that I could afford. It would be great to get the design files and get one made by PCBway
I think locally I can have one part made for that total price. I'd love to have something made here in Canada, but it's far too costly. The method of quoting on their site is also really good, you can adjust and get an updated price instantly. They'll review in more detail to confirm the price, but it seemed to be very accurate from quote price to final price. I'm still hoping that we can all have a metal 3D printer and a 5 axis CNC machine at home someday. It might be a while...
@@NeedItMakeIt I was kinda shocked some Chinese company hasn’t released a semi-cheap DMLS printer yet, but then I learned in a safety video that aerosolized powdered metal is basically a thermobaric bomb, so maybe that’s even beyond their wild sense of capitalism.
I went the reproduction way, but yeah I think something new and different would be nice to see as well. If you could have anything made in metal, what would it be?
Very interesting video as I was wondering about the ability of Chinese manufacturing for these on-demand custom parts. Also the costs seem very reasonable compared to what local shops charge you in Europe. I will certainly give it a try in my next designs. Thanks for this instructive video. Your content is of very high quality and much appreciated.
Just stay away from 3D printed titanium unless you have the $$, it is quite pricey compared to the other materials. I'm surprised that it is that reasonable and also having something made from stainless 3D printed is one of the lower cost options, it's not always easy to post-process stainless but it could be useful for anything outdoors. It's cool tech and I'm sure this is just the beginning.
Great video. From some time I was curious to see how well these 3D printed metal parts would perform and now I could. Of course custom made parts are expensive, but for that parts you can't find anywhere, would be a great option. Their CNC machined parts looks also amazing. I have some steel gears from a tool that I can't find anywhere. Will think about get them made. Waiting to see the thread of the brass part. I would add some chamfers at the borders to avoid getting injured if is an exposed part.
I have another few parts that I'd like to have made up, I'll try some more out to see how they turn out. I'd like to print with Brass, but there is no option at the moment for that, possibly due to the alloying of the metal or oxidation, I can certainly ask them. The collet chuck is so nice, I just wish I hadn't buggered up the measurements for the threads, it works fine, but knowing that I messed it up... is messing with me. The brass cross-slide nut is tapped and I was able to remake a new tapered set screw with a standard thread size and that is also working both as a lock and if I remove it I can add a bit of oil. I'll end up making one with an oil cap in it so I can keep it well oiled and lasting a long time. I'll show a clip of the finished part at the end of the next video if anyone wants to see it. It tapped beautifully and I used the drill press to get it started and then finished it by hand. I have very little backlash, about one thou or so, the screw does have a small amount of wear, so there isn't much of a way around it other than making a new fresh screw. In this case it's not exposed, the only part visible it the very top of the cylinder in this case, they were nice enough to debur the edges, but there were two semi-sharp corners left, that I should do by hand just to be safe for when I do any service work on it.
@@NeedItMakeIt, I don't have all this machinery. I'm just a 3D printer hobby user, but some things that I sometimes do, is create bushings to add to a straight hole. A metal piece with a 3D printed nylon bushing, for example. replace the bushing is easy.
I have wanted to buy that collect chuck that you are talking about but man is it pricey. This seems like a cheaper, better solution. Do you happen to have the file for the *fixed* thread nose collet chuck anywhere? It would be very appreciated!! Great video. Did you make the cross slide nut out of brass or bronze? I have seen both available on ebay but the bronze one is much pricier.
How did you get the file for the wrenches? Kind look scanned. How did you size the opening? Thinking of file to object accuracy. Really interesting video, answers most of my questions.
For the two wrenches I took photos from a distance, each zoomed in as much as I could to get them fairly clear, then used fusion and tried to mimic the top and side views as best I could. I plan on making a video to cover this topic probably in 3-4 weeks if that helps. I have a few videos in the works already that I need to finish up. I'm doing 1 each week at the moment, so it shouldn't be long if that's something you're interested in seeing.
The reason that metal 3d printed wrench is too small is because all 3d printed metal parts need to be cooked after printing and they shrink. You typically need to find an offset to print at something like 110 or 120% of the final size. Sometimes your offset will work for one part but be off for another so this process is often in-house for precision products. The shop you purchased from is likely just using a standard offset that gets close enough on most parts.
Omg, those parts are beautiful. I want to order something from pcbway so bad but I'm just so damn good at making everything myself 😂 the promote HARD on all the main maker youtubers, their prices are great (from the quotes I've gotten) and the quality is obviously amazing.
if 316 stainless is enough, jlc costs half what pcbway offers. they are just too expensive in almost everything they offer. for example a random model i chose printed in titanium costs almost 300 bucks on pcbway, but on craftcloud theres a serivce that would do it for just 110.
I wish I could do it myself, but I'm not that skilled in making parts in metal. Someday! It's a great option and I think if someone has an idea of an invention that they could sell, it might be a good way to go. I didn't mention in the video but I should have that the more parts you buy of the same part, the better the price. I just did one-offs, so it didn't matter in my case. It'd be nice to have a local option, but if there is one, it's going to be 3-4X as expensive as this.
Nice refurbish and upgrades. Did you do the ways scraping. I have an Atlas MFB that needs your attention. As for metal printing, I have had some high strength, tight tolerance parts printed from Inconel 718.
Thanks, I want to have the ways re-machined, they're not too bad, I've only hand-scraped them to do better with oil distribution, and I clean them and re-oil after each use. Now that it's all nice looking, I find myself spending so much more time trying to keep it that way (that's why I don't buy new cars). The MFB is a nice machine, I'd love to have something like that. We don't have many machines available like that, I've only seen a manual shaper come up, and it's far too expensive for what you get. A small mill would be super handy to have in the shop. Where did you have your prints made? I'm open to trying other materials and suppliers. Were you doing custom manifolds?
@@NeedItMakeIt I used PROTOLABS (www.protolabs.com). Fortunately, the company I was working for paid for the parts that I designed to make flexible shaft. The shaft was designed to follow a guide and drill through steel oil well casing, more than 5000 feet down hole. I had previously used PROTOLABS for 3d printed plastic parts. As for the MFB, I have decided to sell it. I just finished cleaning up selling a vintage Craftsman 12"x 52" lathe and have too many in-process projects. I have a vintage 6" Atlas lathe that I tinker with but prefer my more modern 7". I really enjoy your videos. Your ideas, designs and well-presented build processes have been very useful for me, and I am sure many others.
@@NeedItMakeIt Sorry if this is a duplicate reply, I just replied but it is not showing up. I used PROTOLABS to make 20 or so high strength parts. Fortunately, the parts were paid for by the company that I worked for. The parts constructed a flexible shaft assembly that was fitted with a very short drill tip and followed a guide to drill through steel oil well casing over 5000 feet down hole. I had previously used PROTOLABS to print plastic prototypes and clear plastic models. As for the MFB, I have decided to part with it. I have just cleaned up and sold a vintage Craftsman 12"x 52" lathe, and just do not have time for the mill. It is in fair condition and has 4th axis gear cutting setup, but I can do all I need with my small vertical mill. I also have a vintage 6" Atlas/ Craftsman lathe that I tinker with but generally use a modern 7". I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your ideas, designs and well-presented procedures have been very useful for me, and I am sure for many others.
@@NeedItMakeIt I used ProtoLabs to print around 21 parts to construct a 12" long, 7/8" diameter flexible drive/shaft. The shaft included a drill profile tip and was used with a downhole motor to drill holes through oil well casing over 5000 ft deep. Fortunately, the company I designed it for covered the mfg costs. I had previously used ProtoLabs to make tight tolerance plastic prototypes and clear models. They have a quoting process where you just send a .step file and request a material.
@@NeedItMakeIt As for the MFB, I inherited it and a Craftsman 12"x52" lathe that I thought I would refurbish. The lathe was in fair operating condition but was just too big for my shop, so I sold it. I have just decided to sell the mill, as I have a vertical bench mill that meets my needs. The MFB is in operating condition, but I believe needs some mechanical attention. I also have a vintage Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe that I am refurbishing. I enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your ideas, designs and detailed procedures have been very helpful for me, and I am sure for many others.
9:14 painting might not be the thing, it's difficult to get something to hold onto nylon. I mean yeah automotive industry has a ton of painted nylon and it holds up somehow but it's absolutely beyond me. I haven't tried but what i've heard works well is rit synthetic dye instead.
If I had to guess, PCBWay kind of decides if it would be easier/cheaper to 3D print or CNC machine. I'd bet the parts with largely cylindrical features (collet chuck, shaft, etc.) were CNC machined while the others were 3D printed, obviously all the plastic parts were 3D printed. That being said, I really wish he had said in the video which was which! It was not clear to me until reading the description that some were also CNC'd.
That's right, the collet chuck was CNC machined, though that would have been a very good challenge to 3D print. I think it would have failed based on the other parts having changed in shape slightly though. For that part to work, it needs to be very precise.
@@MrScorpianwarrior Apologies, I didn't think of that. Sometimes what goes through my head having gone through the process doesn't align with everyone else's thoughts. In this case I chose which process and material to use for each part. You can certainly ask for advice, but I knew that CNC machining was the only approach for a part like the collet chuck that would work due to the level of precision required.
@@chrisgenovese8188 That makes no sense. So if someone pays me 5k but there's no signed contract, it's not a sponsorship? You can jump through whatever hoops to try to save face through a second account, but this behavior is still slimy at best and against UA-cam TOS at worst. You have to properly disclose sponsored content, ads, etc. I at least commend you for not deleting the comments, but this needs to be addressed correctly.
@marcelo962 he wasn't paid. He was given free product to review. UA-camrs are given free product all the time, with no expectation. If you are sponsored, there is an you sign a contract, and and are contractually obligated to do what is in that contract. There is a difference. I'm sorry this very simple difference is too much for you to understand.
Since I'm cheap, I design all my 3D printed creations around cheap hardware, like skate board ball-bearings, 8mm rods, and M3-M6 nuts and bolts left over from my original RepRap build. I find deals on 30mm and longer and buy a box (100) or two of each size. I then cut them with my Dremel to different lengths for each projects. That's how cheap I am! I've never needed custom parts as a result. If its not off-the-shelp, I don't use it. I just don't need to. I am SURE that this service (metal sintering) is worth it to some people. For that, I thank PCB Way. 👍👍
Thanks, I thought so too, after a little polish, it's very hard to tell that they were printed, which for people wanting reproductions, it's a great option. I think the warpage is the biggest issue, I'd have to spend a bit more time learning about how the warpage occurs and in which directions to compensate for it, but in my case it wasn't a problem.
@@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx except his point was "the episode IS sponsored, because you didn't pay for their services", not whether its biased or unbiased. one of these is a legal issue, and one is not.
Would a fine-sand-casting aluminum or brass from 3D printed parts, not produce the parts you want? Titanium and Stainless Steel is another story... Not many DIY'ers can melt them, let alone make proper casts...
We are living in a magical era.
Every day there is some new technology coming out, it's hard to keep up. Having the ability to make just about anything you can dream up is pretty incredible. I still want to try to make some of these parts by hand, though I don't think mine will compare. It's good to have some perspective and go through the processes people used to use. I want to try using lost-resin for a casting method with aluminum, I think it could produce pretty good results with a vacuum below the mold. I also like the idea of printing with resin for high precision parts to see if that's a good way to prototype parts with extremely tight tolerances and clearances.
I say that all the time. I really look forward to the future.
Yeah... but unfortunately, at the same time all these things are used for good, they're all being used for evil also. Human nature's a bitch.
12:00 The "looseness" of the wrench is actually a blessing as you don't have to line it up exactly in order to get on the nut. Been there done that. Sso I can call you what my boss called me, overachiever!
I've been using it for the last few days now that the lathe is working and so nice and clean, and it works great, with the 2 wrenches I leave on the carriage lock and have the other ready to engage the gears, I wasn't really thinking that I would use both, but I'm kind of glad I have them. I see a lot of potential with metal 3D printing. I hope we can get something for home use, but it might be a while. I'll accept Overachiever! I was told that I was being a bit critical over the parts, but I think that's better than being too easy on them. I have the brass cross-slide nut installed now and it is so nice and smooth and so little backlash now on that parts, what a big difference from the way I was using it a month ago.
Great video.... I rebuilt an abused 9" model A South Bend lathe 41 years ago. Cleaned and painted, rescraped the bed, cross slide and compound, made a new cross feed nut (chased the acme thread) and made a thread dial. The correct length automotive multi V fan belt run inside out or on the tops of it's Vs works well as a replacement for the leather flat belt.
While I now have bigger and better lathes I still use my old friend, my 1951 9" South Bend. Today my shop also has 4 3D plastic printers.....
This was a very interesting show. I'd suggest to make a video about the design process of prototyping in plastic and having the part made by a third party in metal. How you design the tolerances and any tips and tricks. That would be awesome.
Thank you so much, every bit helps! I have plans to make a video on that subject, I want to show how to take an old part, design it from scratch, and then 3D print it and then we can get it manufactured as well to compare. If there is something specific you're looking for, I'd be happy to look at it.
This is the most useful and informative videos regarding SLS and CNC part machining services that I have seen. I really liked how you described each part, and how close the dimensions of the parts matched your specifications. It seems that the printed metal parts need some post-machining (similar to some metal castings) if you need tighter tolerances. I am also VERY grateful that you posted PCBWay's prices on these parts; honestly, I was very impressed with the low cost of these parts, especially the collet chuck piece. It is remarkable how accessible these processes have become to ordinary consumers.
I'll be using them again, and I am willing to try other companies as well to compare. Ideally I would have paid for everything and I think when my channel gets to a point where income is more sustainable, I will give this another try and pay for the parts myself. I also want to try some very precise parts and see if maybe using a resin printer for my prototype would be a good option for let's say the threaded areas to make sure that everything fits before I order anything. Using FDM works for the most part, but overhangs on threads is a tough area.
I wanted the video to show the parts themselves, along with any issues, and I think it did a pretty good job, the metal 3D prints were impressive, but there were some little issues with tolerance and knowing that can make the difference between a success and a fail. Hopefully it added some value.
Your words do consolidate our Mission!🥳
@@PCBWayGreat choice to support this project and this maker! This video did more to inform me about your capabilities than all the other videos I’ve seen about your 3D printing and machining services combined! It not only answered questions about capabilities and tolerances but gave a good idea of approximate costs for the type of parts many people would turn to you to fabricate.
(You should feature this video on your website if you haven’t already done so. It’s an extremely effective illustration of the utility and value of your services, and includes some very useful tips as well. Huge kudos to you and the creator both! I hope you’ll consider becoming a paid sponsor of his to support his channel and his work: This one video will surely lead to many new customers for you over time (especially if you can leverage it on your website or in other marketing campaigns), and many thousands of dollars of business going forward. I hope you’ll be able to support his future efforts in any way that makes sense for both of you. I don’t personally have an immediate need, but will _absolutely_ be a customer in the future!)
@@NeedItMakeIt "I will give this another try and pay for the parts myself" This is the way. 👍
I really appreciate this video. I am also embark onto my first Metal orders and it was good to watch your experience ❤️👍
Hey, that's great, I'm glad you thought so, I wanted to show a variety of parts and materials and show them so that you can see for yourself. I was kind of like a kid opening presents on Christmas day being able to design something and then have it made from metal is pretty amazing, I love to 3D print at home, but making parts from metal just gives it that more heirloom feel.
I live about 19 miles from where your lathe was made. I always like to hear of someone working to keep one running. I went to school with some kids with parents that worked there 50 years ago.
Nice, it's a beautiful machine! I find myself cleaning it quite a bit now, so there it a downside to going through that process of restoring it. I love to bring these old machines back to life, there was so much care taken in making them, and all from hand-made molds and real blueprints. I think people working on those days were far more skilled than we give credit for.
I know this is an older video and comment, but thanks for sharing.
I have one 9" South Bend lathe that I have been using for 30 years in beautiful condition and another that is rough and needs work. This video has me thinking about all kinds of options with this new tech.
It's unbelievable that all of that was made and even shipped for less than $500. Makes one consider what paltry wage the machinists and operators making it are getting and how many hours they have to work every week to pull off that quick turnaround
I have actually been using MJF SLS and Metal printing for finalized products for the last few years, I have enjoyed the process its been really cool to take my components and parts to the next level, threading has been the biggest concern I have ran into which takes a bit of finesse.
Major aircraft builders are studying 3D metal printing as an alternative and even replacement for forgings. Aerospace aerostructure forgings require specific mechanical properties as designated by designer's stress analysis. Besides having a new 3D printed part duplicate an original, it would be beneficial to see if a 3D printed tool can hold up to destructive strength tests as well as a forged tool. A major cost to the F35 program are the cost of forgings that are made from triple melted premium titanium at a cost of close to $20/lb and more at the billet stage, so any reduction in the cost of this metal is of great interest to aircraft builders.
Really really interesting video. I'll definitely consider PCBWAY as an option if ever I need metal parts. Thanks Mike, keep up the great work ❤
Thanks Kevin! I bit off a lot to try and have thee restoration done for the video, and in the end we got it done! Hopefully showing the parts with all of the detail as well as measurements helped someone who might decide to go down this path as well.
By far the best vid I’ve seen about professionally 3D printer and machined parts from PCB Way (or others for that matter). I especially appreciated the measurements and list of prices for all the parts, that was incredibly useful as it finally gave me an idea of what such parts might cost. Very well done, PCB Way should be well-pleased by your partnership, and I felt your evaluation was very objective as well.
(This must hold the record for the most prep time for a YT video: Man wants to do a video on 3D printed parts. Man completely rebuilds his lathe. Man reviews the parts. 😂)
(BTW, did you re-scrape the ways, or did they actually have that little wear?)
Wow! I think this is the best overview of PCBWay capabilities, especially in terms of metal parts, I have seen. Most results were very impressive, with minor exceptions being the flared wrench opening and the lack of ability to tap or machine the specific threads you needed. That collet chuck is crazy nice. Plus, I recently got quotes on a CNC aluminum part and PCBWay was one of the most affordable. $426 is so reasonable for all of that. So really, they seem like a solid option. It's sad we can't offer services like theirs for any kind of reasonable price in the USA. Would be great for our local businesses to have a lot more work like this. Still, really cool this is an option at all.
Thanks,! I want to do a follow up video as well where I order a bunch of different parts and pay for them when I have enough income to do that, it would be nice to see what the results look like when they're ordered as if I were a regular paying customer. For the metal parts, it might be nice for them to give a better heads up on their site, I'll mention that to them about the 3D printed metal parts, I had another look yesterday and didn't see anything that indicated that there would be warpage or shrinkage, I would imagine it would be hard to predict on custom parts, but just a simple note to be aware, it could make the difference for a successful print. I agree I'd much prefer to have something made locally, I should price one of the parts out to see, but I imagine at least in Canada, it'd be one part for the total, and I'd want to pick it up to avoid the high shipping costs here.
So happy to hear this!
Ok shill
@@ObservationofLimits What's your issue? I've literally never even contacted PCBWay except for by getting an automated quote. You try getting those parts cheaper elsewhere with reasonable quality. I'll wait.
The parameters in metal additive printing (SLS, SLM, DMP) really change the quality of the surface, but the density and strength as well. The business I work for is doing parts for aerospace, medical, defense, and other industries. The real magic for this printing is making complex parts and then machining additional features to specs that the printers simply can't do. Cool wrenches, had me looking for where the supports were placed on them.
Insane how far 3dprinting has come
Now when can we order our own metal 3D printer! I guess we can but they're huge and horribly expensive. I want to do some 3D prints become casting videos too coming up, it's at least an interim solution. There is a resin meant just for lost-resin casting that can produce excellent results apparently.
@@NeedItMakeIt Main problem metal has is the very high temperatures needed that make it unsafe for home/hobby usage. Also happens with plastics…higher you go with temperatures the better performance (peek, ulteem, etc). Thanks for your great contribution to 3dprinting world 🙏🏻
Those prices are great; Thank you for doing so many different materials! That short chuck was smart and a great example of what 3d printing can create. Also Nice paint job👌
The angle it was printed on was so perfect for a 3d printed object.
That lathe looks Amazing !!!
Thanks! it took me a good 40 hours to fully restore it. Getting all of that grease off was a real pain, I'm not going to let it get that bad again! It's so nice to use now. It needs a new bench with proper storage to go with it.
I got and old Southbend bench lathe in 1989, it was stolen in 1996. I think about it 52 weeks per year since then.
I am planning to make an improved hammer and trigger for an old revolver. This 3d thing seems to fit like a glove.
It must have been a nice machine! That's too bad, that's a 2-3 person job to steal a machine of that size and weight, they must have thought it was worth the risk. 3D metal printing could make those parts, but I believe there are restrictions around making parts for weapons. I'll have to experiment a bit more with 3D printing metals because it is going to be something we'll be able to do at home in the future, the possibilities are endless, from making machinery to making car parts, it's going to be amazing!
@@NeedItMakeIt In Brazil only slides, frames, barrels and cylinders are restricted; hammers, sears, firing pins and even magazines are not (despite our commies, some people say we are the next Venezuela, and they may be right). The lathe was the easiest task, they took a two ton Schaudt grinding machine and a huge Bernardini safe too... Brazil is a no man's land believe me. We have so many crimes that police just gave up decades ago.
@@NeedItMakeIt The southbend was the easiest part. They took a 2 ton schaudt grinding machine, a Bernardini safe and much more. Brazil is a no man's land, police gave up many decades ago... too many crimes, a russian infantry wave, a tsunami of all kinds of crimes.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes... PCBWAY doesn't print even airsoft parts. I'll try to find someone else to print my stuff.
Just excellent work!
Thanks! This one was a bit of a long video, there was a lot to cover. I have the Brass cross-slide nut installed now and it is so nice to use, too bad I can only see the top of the part, but it threaded super nice, I was able to use the drill press to start the tap, and then finish it by hand to get it perfectly lined up. I think I'll have to explore this more but maybe next time with just one really complex part, something that anyone could use in their own homes maybe, if you have any ideas, I'm all ears.
Nice work . Looks great
@15:53 - You had multiple parts that had threading, and I was under the impression that all of these were 3d printed -without any post-processing on the part of PCBWay- and yet it became clear that there _could_ be post-processing done by PCBWay.
(a) What post-processing did you have them do on all the parts?
(b) Why didn't you have them print the threads on this piece?
Pcbway also has cnc capabilities, based on the tool marks on the brass and the fact he never mentioned them as 3d printed, my assumption is those were simply cnc machined not printed. And therefore it makes sense that he didn't thread them eventhough they could but it would have cost more for tooling. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that explains your question.
Also in his description it says some cnc machined parts are shown. My guess is the brass as well as the collet are cnc not 3d printed. He only says 3d print on the parts that were actually 3d printed.
Several of the parts were machined from stock, no printing involved.
@@newmonengineering That's right, sorry, I was using all of their services, I guess I should have covered that part in more detail... I wanted to get as many parts from as many different materials and processes as possible to test out the service adequately. I should have done a better job to talk about which parts were made from which process earlier in the video.
great video thank you. the pricing was very reasonable
Thank you, I was surprised with how cheap some of the parts were. 3D printing in Titanium is pretty $$ but most other metals are very reasonable. I'd have to test out Titanium to see, maybe even a ring or belt buckle would be cool to see.
Really cool video. Home 3D printing is fun but our creativity is to much sometimes. It's nice to have a business that can make our ideas out of metal.
Great video!
I have two 9" South Bend lathes, one in great shape, the other is a project...
Could you please share where you purchased the cross slide tap from?
14:42 Looks like the flared gap in the open end was caused by shrinking during the bake. I think higher end wrenches are ground to spec
Excellent video! Great details on how the parts came out and I like that you shared the costs. Everyone goofs here and there. Nice job fixing the minor goof on the collet chuck. 👍
FYI, put a board on the bed ways when swapping chucks. If you accidentally drop the chuck, it protects the bed ways and the chuck a bit. Some people get fancy with it, but it's just there for protection. It can be somewhat locked in place with the tailstock as well.
Thanks for that! That tip is a very good one, even that 4 Jaw isn't that light. I'm building a new bench for the lathe too and I want to have a place for everything so I'll have a spot for a board to keep the ways in good shape. I need to take the spindle out again tomorrow to install the new belt, hopefully that allows me to drive it at high speed well; at the moment the leather doesn't do well at high speed, it slips too much. Great tip my friend, much appreciated!
@@NeedItMakeIt Glad to help. That's a lot of effort you've put into it! Hate seeing it get damaged by a simple accident. I hope to see it getting used in future videos. Be safe!
@@joegroom3195 That answers the question about why there were a few small marks in the ways in that area when I bought it, I'll be more careful than they were. I still need to redo the felts, but they're expensive to order, so I was going to order some from McMaster and and cut them myself. Thanks!
I think they did fairly good on everything but as far as deformation goes they should be the ones who compensate for it. They are the ones who so this work everyday so it seems like they would have a better grasp on how much to adjust for it. It seemed like a good price for all you had done also.
I have that same tap from amazon. Screams like crazy when tapping brass but worked fine.
Very good video bro I learned a lot thanks
So interesting. You are an excellent teacher. Please help! I fix vintage sewing machines, rescuing them and making them usable for myself and others. Often we have nylon gears that inevitably crack with time. Taiwan is making too replacements but... still in nylon not metal. They are not cheap at $60 each for a mass produced small part. I have some questions.
1. If I replaced a nylon gear (gear slits are nylon, stem is steel) with an all metal gear, would the machine work fine?
2. Can I print this out in steel in a 3D printer? What other fancy tools would I need? Software graphics?
3. Who makes these gear parts in the US that would take on this work?
4. Do you know any Taiwan makers who could make them in metal - same plastic gear in metal instead?
It would be a great service to sewing machines if we could solve this problem. Many thanks!!
Thanks for putting this together. I have a few ideas for obsolete parts for old machinery that would be nice to remake out of metal. Guess i'll have to jump into CAD and do some designing, print them on my Prusa to make sure they fit, and then get an offer to see if i want to commit fully to the project.
Would be interesting to get an offer from a local cnc shop as well, just to compare the price, but looking at what you payed for the parts, i don't think a local shop can compete with that price if you think about setup and machining time and how much a machinist costs per hour.
What surface on the spindle registers center in the collet chuck? Certainly not just by the threads? If the spindle shoulder behind the threads, I t would seem you need to make a press on ring then machine it on the lathe to perfectly center. Then make the chuck to match the modified spindle.
I wonder if they could make for air rifles the fittings for connecting the bottles es if they could hold 300bar 🤔
That collet chuck looks beautiful. That thread dial is a nice piece. I agree that you should be able to sell those. Really nice quality.
If you do remake the little wrench, flip the part number on the back to match the original.
I'm glad to have tried metal 3D printing and using their service, as long as you can design something, you can have it made pretty easily and it doesn't seem to break the bank. The metal 3D printing as a precision part is questionable, its something you'd want to post-process to final size, or make sure to design it in such a away to prevent warpage (More investigation is required). I guess I should adjust the design and send it away to have it remade. You have a very keen eye, you're the only person to notice that! When I saw it, I was shaking my head, I was pretty careful, but got caught up spending too much time trying to match the font, and not enough on orientation. For a good reproduction it should all be as close as possible. It was pretty good but could use a little more fine-tuning. I'm glad I have 2 of these small wrenches, I ordered them not for that reason, just as a test, but having 2 helps because I have one on the carriage lock at all times, which is pretty handy.
Can you share how you did the text embossing both positive and negative? Taper angle of extrusion of the 2d text? It seems to be rounded. I have had really bad results with 0.2mm layers.
Did they 3d print and then sinter?... or did they 3d print and then cast? (Like "lost wax casting" or "lost PLA casting"?)
The ER collet chuck is a fascinating build. Would like to see more about how you modelled it and how much runout it had. You state threads did not come out quite right, did you specify a standard thread size, or did you do something more custom? I would like to do the same for my South Bend 10R as it has an odd 1-7/8 x 8TPI spindle.
Tap the nut with the equivalent standard NC or NF tap, then run the acmetap through. It will be a lot easier
Ahhh tooo late. I already finished it. I started it in the drill press using a rod sized to the bore chucked up to get it positioned in my drill vise and then finished it by hand. I was very careful and used lots of oil to make sure not to break the tap. It turned out so well. I have so little backlash now and I made a new tapered set screw with a standard thread size and then used the original steel pin and the lock works. If I want to oil it, I can just remove the screw and add a dab. The original didn't have a method to oil, which is probably why there was so much wear. I have lots more tools that could use an upgrade, what should be next? I was thinking that my old General 490 Bandsaw could use some bearings for the blade support on each side rather than the current blocks. I could design a new upper and lower mount, maybe even integrate better dust collection into it while iIm at it.
Great video! I'm working on a hotend flow booster with some fancy inner geometry and can't get it manufactured en masse as it's designed by typical methods. Good to know it stands a chance!
Sounds awesome! The parts I had made are holding up well, and I think the tech will only get better from here, so there is a ton of potential here. I've been thinking about designing a ventilation system to draw in fresh air from outside, and I'd like to have the exchanger 3D printed with as much surface area as possible and from materials that can be cleaned and will allow condensation to collect and drip outside as well. At home, I don't think I have any materials that would do the job, but getting it made from metal could work really well with the right material.
Great video! I have a question about the painting process: What primer and paint did you use to paint the lathe? Did the paint adhere well and prove to be durable, considering the lathe is subject to impacts and scratches?
8:02 why the cut? Are inacurate? i want to order some 3D print of ADM but need good tolerance and no skyrocket price.
It makes no sense to me that make adjustments to allow for shrinkage on the wrench, how could you possibly know what, and how much to adjust? To me it would be pcbway that makes that adjustment, they are the ones to know what to expect
I may have missed it in the comments but was the modified design of the collet adapter posted somewhere? I've got an old Logan lathe that desperately needs an adapter for an ER-32 collet set
For some reason I can not upload my files on PCBWAY, both step and stl files don’t work and I have even tried from both my computer and IPad. Any tips?
Very nice stuff. Technology is amazing.
Pretty impressive stuff, I used it to make reproduction parts, and that worked out well. I've love to use some of this tech to design our own parts using generative design to see where that leads too. I want to also come up with an idea for something that could be 3D printed from metal, that everyone needs in their home... I just don't know what that is. Something that needs to be strong and long-lasting. Not much is coming to mind at the moment unfortunately.
Hey Mike, love your videos! This one was a little more challenging to watch due to the auto focus re-adjusting frequently. Also, how are you going to distill a full lathe restore to just 30 seconds? I'm sure we all would have loved to see a full video on just that!
what paint did you use on the lathe? im restoring a south bend 9C from the same era (identical to yours, except mine has no gearbox) and theres enough wear in the paint I think its worth fully repainting. Your paint turned out fantastic!
If you release the design or decide to sell that ER32 collet chuck adapter, I would buy/order one in a heartbeat. I've got a SB 9C and have been planning on making one myself, but I'd gladly take the shortcut!
Do I understand your comments right…. the ER collet chuck was only $65? Seems like a screaming deal. 😊. After all your rework need to get it to fit, what did the runout measure. That’s always the trick for a collet chuck. Almost need to machine the registering features on the spindle it’s being used on to ensure minimal runout. Or make it adjustable 😜
Beleave it or not I have the same south bend lathe as you and I also went through it and rebuilt it 2 years ago. I also changed to a rubber belt that I had to cut down to make it narrow enough to fit the pullya. I love my little 9" lathe. If you would care to see them I could send you pictures of mine. Anyway I enjoyed your video. Keep it up.
Is it possible to make a center punch with 3d printed titanium out of the box?
My understanding is you generally don’t have any carbon or glass fiber infused parts to be rubbing moving parts. Because they will abrade away any contacting surfaces over time.
Nice work. Might have missed this but how much shrinkage did you have to account for? And how much did you have to file out?
Your lathe looks awesome, want to do the same thing to my Myford soon. Should make a quick change collet holder too.
Your in Canada, Edmonton by chance?
I have a Southbend 9C and I am interested in the details of the collet chuck. Also, what kind of runout did you get?
I have a Logan lathe and have been looking for a collet chuck that I could afford. It would be great to get the design files and get one made by PCBway
You can dye nylon with Ritt clothing dye. Get boiling water, add the dye and dip it in it till youre happy with the color.
Nice new Lathe
I can’t believe it’s that cheap, we live in such cool times.
I think locally I can have one part made for that total price. I'd love to have something made here in Canada, but it's far too costly. The method of quoting on their site is also really good, you can adjust and get an updated price instantly. They'll review in more detail to confirm the price, but it seemed to be very accurate from quote price to final price. I'm still hoping that we can all have a metal 3D printer and a 5 axis CNC machine at home someday. It might be a while...
@@NeedItMakeIt I was kinda shocked some Chinese company hasn’t released a semi-cheap DMLS printer yet, but then I learned in a safety video that aerosolized powdered metal is basically a thermobaric bomb, so maybe that’s even beyond their wild sense of capitalism.
Wow! How was the "Collet Chuck - $65.34"
cheaper than the "Follow Rest Fingers (Set) - $74.87"
Either way. Very nice!!
So cool. Now I just gotta come up with something useful to design and order from them!
I went the reproduction way, but yeah I think something new and different would be nice to see as well. If you could have anything made in metal, what would it be?
I live in Vietnam. Sir, does PCB accept shipping to Vietnam?
You just gave me a idea for a removable leadscrew cleaner that snaps on, cleans, lubricate, removes exesice and moves on.
Very interesting video as I was wondering about the ability of Chinese manufacturing for these on-demand custom parts. Also the costs seem very reasonable compared to what local shops charge you in Europe. I will certainly give it a try in my next designs. Thanks for this instructive video. Your content is of very high quality and much appreciated.
Nice to know that metal printing is an option.
Just stay away from 3D printed titanium unless you have the $$, it is quite pricey compared to the other materials. I'm surprised that it is that reasonable and also having something made from stainless 3D printed is one of the lower cost options, it's not always easy to post-process stainless but it could be useful for anything outdoors. It's cool tech and I'm sure this is just the beginning.
so let me get this correct collet holder was also 3d printed?
Great video. From some time I was curious to see how well these 3D printed metal parts would perform and now I could. Of course custom made parts are expensive, but for that parts you can't find anywhere, would be a great option. Their CNC machined parts looks also amazing. I have some steel gears from a tool that I can't find anywhere. Will think about get them made. Waiting to see the thread of the brass part. I would add some chamfers at the borders to avoid getting injured if is an exposed part.
I have another few parts that I'd like to have made up, I'll try some more out to see how they turn out. I'd like to print with Brass, but there is no option at the moment for that, possibly due to the alloying of the metal or oxidation, I can certainly ask them. The collet chuck is so nice, I just wish I hadn't buggered up the measurements for the threads, it works fine, but knowing that I messed it up... is messing with me.
The brass cross-slide nut is tapped and I was able to remake a new tapered set screw with a standard thread size and that is also working both as a lock and if I remove it I can add a bit of oil. I'll end up making one with an oil cap in it so I can keep it well oiled and lasting a long time. I'll show a clip of the finished part at the end of the next video if anyone wants to see it. It tapped beautifully and I used the drill press to get it started and then finished it by hand. I have very little backlash, about one thou or so, the screw does have a small amount of wear, so there isn't much of a way around it other than making a new fresh screw. In this case it's not exposed, the only part visible it the very top of the cylinder in this case, they were nice enough to debur the edges, but there were two semi-sharp corners left, that I should do by hand just to be safe for when I do any service work on it.
@@NeedItMakeIt, I don't have all this machinery. I'm just a 3D printer hobby user, but some things that I sometimes do, is create bushings to add to a straight hole. A metal piece with a 3D printed nylon bushing, for example. replace the bushing is easy.
I’d like to have you make me one of those collet chucks for my SB 9 do you have them available?
I have wanted to buy that collect chuck that you are talking about but man is it pricey. This seems like a cheaper, better solution. Do you happen to have the file for the *fixed* thread nose collet chuck anywhere? It would be very appreciated!! Great video. Did you make the cross slide nut out of brass or bronze? I have seen both available on ebay but the bronze one is much pricier.
how much did it cost to print the wrench?
Keep the face plate, clean it and add some protective ceramic coating to protect it from further wear.
How did you get the file for the wrenches? Kind look scanned. How did you size the opening?
Thinking of file to object accuracy.
Really interesting video, answers most of my questions.
For the two wrenches I took photos from a distance, each zoomed in as much as I could to get them fairly clear, then used fusion and tried to mimic the top and side views as best I could. I plan on making a video to cover this topic probably in 3-4 weeks if that helps. I have a few videos in the works already that I need to finish up. I'm doing 1 each week at the moment, so it shouldn't be long if that's something you're interested in seeing.
I'm sure the work you did on your lathe could probably be an entire video in itself 👀
The reason that metal 3d printed wrench is too small is because all 3d printed metal parts need to be cooked after printing and they shrink. You typically need to find an offset to print at something like 110 or 120% of the final size. Sometimes your offset will work for one part but be off for another so this process is often in-house for precision products. The shop you purchased from is likely just using a standard offset that gets close enough on most parts.
Will you be sharing the collet adapter files or making some to sell? I’m interested in one.
Great vid, thanks.
Thanks for that!
Omg, those parts are beautiful. I want to order something from pcbway so bad but I'm just so damn good at making everything myself 😂 the promote HARD on all the main maker youtubers, their prices are great (from the quotes I've gotten) and the quality is obviously amazing.
would've been helpful if you verbally stated the prices in the video, especially when you do mention the prices of alternatively sourced parts.
if 316 stainless is enough, jlc costs half what pcbway offers. they are just too expensive in almost everything they offer.
for example a random model i chose printed in titanium costs almost 300 bucks on pcbway, but on craftcloud theres a serivce that would do it for just 110.
What tolerances was added to the files?
Great video. PCB way seems the way to go to get parts made that are beyond your abilities.
I wish I could do it myself, but I'm not that skilled in making parts in metal. Someday! It's a great option and I think if someone has an idea of an invention that they could sell, it might be a good way to go. I didn't mention in the video but I should have that the more parts you buy of the same part, the better the price. I just did one-offs, so it didn't matter in my case. It'd be nice to have a local option, but if there is one, it's going to be 3-4X as expensive as this.
Opens a world of new possibilities.
Nice refurbish and upgrades. Did you do the ways scraping. I have an Atlas MFB that needs your attention. As for metal printing, I have had some high strength, tight tolerance parts printed from Inconel 718.
Thanks, I want to have the ways re-machined, they're not too bad, I've only hand-scraped them to do better with oil distribution, and I clean them and re-oil after each use. Now that it's all nice looking, I find myself spending so much more time trying to keep it that way (that's why I don't buy new cars). The MFB is a nice machine, I'd love to have something like that. We don't have many machines available like that, I've only seen a manual shaper come up, and it's far too expensive for what you get. A small mill would be super handy to have in the shop. Where did you have your prints made? I'm open to trying other materials and suppliers. Were you doing custom manifolds?
@@NeedItMakeIt I used PROTOLABS (www.protolabs.com). Fortunately, the company I was working for paid for the parts that I designed to make flexible shaft. The shaft was designed to follow a guide and drill through steel oil well casing, more than 5000 feet down hole. I had previously used PROTOLABS for 3d printed plastic parts. As for the MFB, I have decided to sell it. I just finished cleaning up selling a vintage Craftsman 12"x 52" lathe and have too many in-process projects. I have a vintage 6" Atlas lathe that I tinker with but prefer my more modern 7". I really enjoy your videos. Your ideas, designs and well-presented build processes have been very useful for me, and I am sure many others.
@@NeedItMakeIt Sorry if this is a duplicate reply, I just replied but it is not showing up. I used PROTOLABS to make 20 or so high strength parts. Fortunately, the parts were paid for by the company that I worked for. The parts constructed a flexible shaft assembly that was fitted with a very short drill tip and followed a guide to drill through steel oil well casing over 5000 feet down hole. I had previously used PROTOLABS to print plastic prototypes and clear plastic models. As for the MFB, I have decided to part with it. I have just cleaned up and sold a vintage Craftsman 12"x 52" lathe, and just do not have time for the mill. It is in fair condition and has 4th axis gear cutting setup, but I can do all I need with my small vertical mill. I also have a vintage 6" Atlas/ Craftsman lathe that I tinker with but generally use a modern 7". I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your ideas, designs and well-presented procedures have been very useful for me, and I am sure for many others.
@@NeedItMakeIt I used ProtoLabs to print around 21 parts to construct a 12" long, 7/8" diameter flexible drive/shaft. The shaft included a drill profile tip and was used with a downhole motor to drill holes through oil well casing over 5000 ft deep. Fortunately, the company I designed it for covered the mfg costs. I had previously used ProtoLabs to make tight tolerance plastic prototypes and clear models. They have a quoting process where you just send a .step file and request a material.
@@NeedItMakeIt As for the MFB, I inherited it and a Craftsman 12"x52" lathe that I thought I would refurbish. The lathe was in fair operating condition but was just too big for my shop, so I sold it. I have just decided to sell the mill, as I have a vertical bench mill that meets my needs. The MFB is in operating condition, but I believe needs some mechanical attention. I also have a vintage Atlas/Craftsman 6" lathe that I am refurbishing. I enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your ideas, designs and detailed procedures have been very helpful for me, and I am sure for many others.
Put the cross slide nut in a four jaw machine a pin to sit slug in the nut bore indicate the pin
9:14 painting might not be the thing, it's difficult to get something to hold onto nylon. I mean yeah automotive industry has a ton of painted nylon and it holds up somehow but it's absolutely beyond me. I haven't tried but what i've heard works well is rit synthetic dye instead.
I'm confused... Not everything in the video was 3d printed, right? Some were machined, correct?
I think the collet chuck, the brass parts, and the titanium shaft were not 3d printed. The wrenches and the plastic parts were 3d printed.
If I had to guess, PCBWay kind of decides if it would be easier/cheaper to 3D print or CNC machine. I'd bet the parts with largely cylindrical features (collet chuck, shaft, etc.) were CNC machined while the others were 3D printed, obviously all the plastic parts were 3D printed.
That being said, I really wish he had said in the video which was which! It was not clear to me until reading the description that some were also CNC'd.
That's right, the collet chuck was CNC machined, though that would have been a very good challenge to 3D print. I think it would have failed based on the other parts having changed in shape slightly though. For that part to work, it needs to be very precise.
@@MrScorpianwarrior Apologies, I didn't think of that. Sometimes what goes through my head having gone through the process doesn't align with everyone else's thoughts. In this case I chose which process and material to use for each part. You can certainly ask for advice, but I knew that CNC machining was the only approach for a part like the collet chuck that would work due to the level of precision required.
@@NeedItMakeIt Ah, understood, thanks for clarification!
I agree this is much more enjoyable to watch than this is sponsed by PCBway.
Borderline Clark tech, but you didn't check the runout on the collet adapter.
How is it not sponsored if you did not pay for the parts?
Just like it's "made of tool steel" (which 316 is not)
this is a review. a sponsorship is a formal agreement in which the creator has to sign and fulfill a contract.
@@ObservationofLimits right, he misspoke when he did the dialog and corrected himself during editing. ive seen this a million times on youtube.
@@chrisgenovese8188 That makes no sense. So if someone pays me 5k but there's no signed contract, it's not a sponsorship? You can jump through whatever hoops to try to save face through a second account, but this behavior is still slimy at best and against UA-cam TOS at worst. You have to properly disclose sponsored content, ads, etc. I at least commend you for not deleting the comments, but this needs to be addressed correctly.
@marcelo962 he wasn't paid. He was given free product to review. UA-camrs are given free product all the time, with no expectation. If you are sponsored, there is an you sign a contract, and and are contractually obligated to do what is in that contract. There is a difference. I'm sorry this very simple difference is too much for you to understand.
Since I'm cheap, I design all my 3D printed creations around cheap hardware, like skate board ball-bearings, 8mm rods, and M3-M6 nuts and bolts left over from my original RepRap build.
I find deals on 30mm and longer and buy a box (100) or two of each size.
I then cut them with my Dremel to different lengths for each projects. That's how cheap I am! I've never needed custom parts as a result.
If its not off-the-shelp, I don't use it. I just don't need to.
I am SURE that this service (metal sintering) is worth it to some people.
For that, I thank PCB Way. 👍👍
Very cool stuff
Thanks, I thought so too, after a little polish, it's very hard to tell that they were printed, which for people wanting reproductions, it's a great option. I think the warpage is the biggest issue, I'd have to spend a bit more time learning about how the warpage occurs and in which directions to compensate for it, but in my case it wasn't a problem.
The episode IS sponsored, because you didn't pay for their services.
reviews and sponsorships are not the same thing.
@@chrisgenovese8188you are correct but his point stays the same, free equals not truly unbiased
@@throwawaypt2throwawaypt2-xp8nx except his point was "the episode IS sponsored, because you didn't pay for their services", not whether its biased or unbiased. one of these is a legal issue, and one is not.
@@chrisgenovese8188 your right
Why didn't you film the machining you did?
The angular and dimensional accuracy was surprisingly bad for a professional service if the plans were properly made.
Would a fine-sand-casting aluminum or brass from 3D printed parts, not produce the parts you want?
Titanium and Stainless Steel is another story... Not many DIY'ers can melt them, let alone make proper casts...
Gooid to offer up multiple versions, for testing.
There's no way all of what you shown was 3D printed. The brass looks CNC. The same goes for the titanium rod
O shit sherlock
Surprisingly high price for the follow rest fingers
Mike thanks for your video! I'm very waiting new video about ender 3 v 3 ke/se )
Don't paint the thread dial housing, dye it with Rit dye.
Polish to mirror please!!