As a guy building up his first banger, this stuff is gold! The info is around buried in forum topics or magazines, but this primer is going to do so much for the guys wrenching on stuff without a guru to guide them. It’s a real service. B dizzy Downdraft carb/intake 5.5:1 or 6:1 head Cut off the muffler Go!
Saw the picture and quick mention of the double updraft carb set up. Is there a source for it? If not, what would you recommend for the best single updraft carb? Already have 6:1 head and exhaust along with Mitchell synchro gearbox. (6v car, really don't want fuel pump, regulator, etc.). Glad your videos popped up!
Well interesting my pap said that there where some fast four bangers. And he should know, in 1928 he was 22 years old. He said he done some tinkering on some A's and some motor bikes. I finally binged all your stuff I liked what I seen so I'm on broad.
Yeah,but I'm talking about when people other than race car or extremely rich people could afford a 100+ mph car at that time so cracking down the road at 70+ mph. It's the thrill of taking a 60 top end vehicle and send it to 75, 80, 90 mph by your own skills. To me that's fast!
This is great stuff. I bought a 4 banger from my neighbor. It had been built by the late Harold Johansen, a legend in early hot rodding and 4 bangers. It is a 1927 model T roadster body, Model A running gear, and model B motor with 6 to 1 head, a single Stromberg 81 sitting on top of a Burns intake, custom header. etc, etc. All very old school, and a lot of fun to drive.
I'm familiar with Mr. Johansen and his long racing career and exploits. Is the car you're talking about black with full fenders, red wheels, and stock chrome windshield? I think I have some pictures of it from before he passed. Thanks for watching!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop Yes, that is the car. It has been described as a car he built from parts he had been collecting for years. It is pictured in several articles on the web. He never raced it however; it was just his car to drive around in. And my neighbor used to drive him around in it after Harold lost his eyesight. It has insert bearings, pressured oil, electric fuel pump, juice brakes, electric fan. Open top car; no top. Green vinyl interior. I run 91 octane in it. Fuel tank is in the cowl.
Not to argue or challenge, how would the increased HP affect your lower end (bearings) ?? Would it make sense to begin there before dadding the "stress" on the original (?? condition) babbits ?? Those two "tilly's" on there look pretty "Kool" !! Like the GAV adjuster on the back carb !! 👍👍👍🛠🔩⚙🔨🗜😉
General rule is you're safe at 6:1 and below. I think the reduction in lugging(incredibly bad for babbit) of the engine makes up for any accelerated wear from the increased compression. Of course all of these mods assume you are beginning with a engine in good basic mechanical shape. More than inserts, I think pressurizing the mains and perhaps the rods is a better investment than inserts. We will be talking inserts and oiling more in depth in a future episode.
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop yeah I have a 2 year old german shepherd puppy who wasn't trained that well. he's house trained but wants to do his own thing when he wants and i'm slowly teaching him i'm the boss.
If I listen to too much more of this stuff I may end up tweaking the B motor in the '32 sedan instead of using the V8 I've got on the stand..................😂
@rodderbob I mean...if you've got the v8...no sense in wasting it. 😉 @ryansabo8023 Bob's had some pretty serious traditional hot rods over the time I've known him and well before. Drool worthy stuff. And... Dare I say..."influential". He's on the hamb as well, so you both know the secret handshake.
Hi there! Suppose I fitted a high compression head (nothing wild - 5:1 or thereabout), not necessarily to get more performance, but mainly to improve fuel efficiency: Does the engine run rougher (more vibrations in the cabin) or does it stay the same as long as I drive it the same (since now going the same speed would require less throttle)? Best Wishes and Thanks in advance Adrian
I just picked up a model aa Ford. It’s just about restored. The motor and transmission has been rebuilt and the chassis stripped painted and it’s mostly together other than paint and putting the glass and hardware/latches back on. I was told to be able to drive at 70mph would be like a death trap. I’ve never driven one and have no idea. If I do these power modifications and ad an overdrive what else would I need to do to the chassi to get it to drive good at high speeds 70mph or so?
As a guy building up his first banger, this stuff is gold! The info is around buried in forum topics or magazines, but this primer is going to do so much for the guys wrenching on stuff without a guru to guide them. It’s a real service.
B dizzy
Downdraft carb/intake
5.5:1 or 6:1 head
Cut off the muffler
Go!
Thanks for watching pal!
Saw the picture and quick mention of the double updraft carb set up. Is there a source for it? If not, what would you recommend for the best single updraft carb? Already have 6:1 head and exhaust along with Mitchell synchro gearbox. (6v car, really don't want fuel pump, regulator, etc.). Glad your videos popped up!
Well interesting my pap said that there where some fast four bangers. And he should know, in 1928 he was 22 years old. He said he done some tinkering on some A's and some motor bikes. I finally binged all your stuff I liked what I seen so I'm on broad.
Thanks for watching! They're fast for what they are, but I wouldn't call them fast by modern standards! Still fun!
Yeah,but I'm talking about when people other than race car or extremely rich people could afford a 100+ mph car at that time so cracking down the road at 70+ mph. It's the thrill of taking a 60 top end vehicle and send it to 75, 80, 90 mph by your own skills.
To me that's fast!
This is great stuff. I bought a 4 banger from my neighbor. It had been built by the late Harold Johansen, a legend in early hot rodding and 4 bangers. It is a 1927 model T roadster body, Model A running gear, and model B motor with 6 to 1 head, a single Stromberg 81 sitting on top of a Burns intake, custom header. etc, etc. All very old school, and a lot of fun to drive.
I'm familiar with Mr. Johansen and his long racing career and exploits. Is the car you're talking about black with full fenders, red wheels, and stock chrome windshield? I think I have some pictures of it from before he passed. Thanks for watching!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop Yes, that is the car. It has been described as a car he built from parts he had been collecting for years. It is pictured in several articles on the web. He never raced it however; it was just his car to drive around in. And my neighbor used to drive him around in it after Harold lost his eyesight. It has insert bearings, pressured oil, electric fuel pump, juice brakes, electric fan. Open top car; no top. Green vinyl interior. I run 91 octane in it. Fuel tank is in the cowl.
Great series…
Thanks!
This is so useful. Thank you very much, very good video
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for that... Good to see Charlie again too...
He's always around. He likes to lay out in the sun during the summer, so isn't around as much during filming. You'll see him more over winter.
3:00 Phillips Spark advance from NuRex worked as well as modern distributor for me. Automatic spark advance either way.
I have not used a Nurex distributor. But would like to try one!
Great advice. A synchro transmission (like Mitchell’s) will let you get the most out of whatever engine you have.
Agreed. We'll be getting into that in a future episode
Good info. Im running a built banger in my 30 coupe with a 36 ford v8 transmission. Lots of fun.
Not to argue or challenge, how would the increased HP affect your lower end (bearings) ?? Would it make sense to begin there before dadding the "stress" on the original (?? condition) babbits ??
Those two "tilly's" on there look pretty "Kool" !! Like the GAV adjuster on the back carb !! 👍👍👍🛠🔩⚙🔨🗜😉
General rule is you're safe at 6:1 and below. I think the reduction in lugging(incredibly bad for babbit) of the engine makes up for any accelerated wear from the increased compression.
Of course all of these mods assume you are beginning with a engine in good basic mechanical shape. More than inserts, I think pressurizing the mains and perhaps the rods is a better investment than inserts. We will be talking inserts and oiling more in depth in a future episode.
Really great series!
Thank you!
Great info for a starter like me, thanks Matt 👍
Happy to help!
0:51 ohh my god your puppy is so frigging cute!
Thanks, he's a handful, but a cute one!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop yeah I have a 2 year old german shepherd puppy who wasn't trained that well. he's house trained but wants to do his own thing when he wants and i'm slowly teaching him i'm the boss.
with a single down draft carb do you need a fuel pump?
No... Fuel tank and pitcock are high... It will supply fuel pressure... If you move it up you'll need a pump....
If you go up a really steep Hill you'll have to turn around, and back up the hill to get fuel....
Another great video!
If you bought a new FSI unit would you buy 6V positive ground or convert to 12v?
12 volt is nice. Easier to deal with all around. That being said I run 6 volt because I'm stubborn. Haha
If I listen to too much more of this stuff I may end up tweaking the B motor in the '32 sedan instead of using the V8 I've got on the stand..................😂
‘32 sedan with a B banger and speed parts. Save the V8. Be different!
Everyone has aV8......run a 4 BANGER
@@ryansabo8023 I was different before it became fashionable, ask Matt. 😅
Is it fashionable? Damn… now I’ll be cool! Somebody tell my wife and kids!
@rodderbob I mean...if you've got the v8...no sense in wasting it. 😉
@ryansabo8023 Bob's had some pretty serious traditional hot rods over the time I've known him and well before. Drool worthy stuff. And... Dare I say..."influential". He's on the hamb as well, so you both know the secret handshake.
killer info!
Would you recommend porting and polishing the heads and manifolds? Your vids are getting better every week!
Not at this level. We'll be talking porting and polishing in the next episode.
great great information.
Thanks for watching!
Another good one. Please tell me that was not a cracked "C" head 😢
I could tell you that. But I'd be lying!
Hi there!
Suppose I fitted a high compression head (nothing wild - 5:1 or thereabout), not necessarily to get more performance, but mainly to improve fuel efficiency:
Does the engine run rougher (more vibrations in the cabin) or does it stay the same as long as I drive it the same (since now going the same speed would require less throttle)?
Best Wishes and Thanks in advance
Adrian
No it won't run rougher. If anything you're not working it as much, so the engine isnt maxed out.
I just picked up a model aa Ford. It’s just about restored. The motor and transmission has been rebuilt and the chassis stripped painted and it’s mostly together other than paint and putting the glass and hardware/latches back on. I was told to be able to drive at 70mph would be like a death trap. I’ve never driven one and have no idea. If I do these power modifications and ad an overdrive what else would I need to do to the chassi to get it to drive good at high speeds 70mph or so?
I've found it hard to find
Model B points....
Maybe I'm not looking in the right places. Found a few sets on eBay.
I have a lot of new old stock. I haven't bought sets in years. Hopefully someone is making them new or I'm gonna start hoarding even worse. Haha
What about transmission hop ups
This is a whole 10 part series on hopping up the model A. We'll get there!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop Nice I'll be tuned in
Thanks for watching!
Love Charlie, what breed is he?
He's a Boston Terrier!
@@Seattle_Speed_Shop lol, that's where I live, but the UK one not the MA one.
You say nothing crazy. My dad's car has all the crazy. Overhead valves, dual carbs, four speed...yikes.
Sounds fun!