I’m a tradesman and I can say with complete confidence that Kirk’s plumbing is far superior to many so called professional jobs I’ve seen. Great work Kirk 👍👍
My son is a gas engineer and plumber and after watching this couldn’t really fault Kirk It’s more about your attitude to work and safety etc than actual experience A methodical brain and attitude towards a job is more important than a bit of specific knowledge in one area Turn your hand to anything
I'm doing it myself right now (plumbers are overloaded, we won't wait months). The hardest part is the 3D pipe puzzle, once that is done it is just making a plan which part to press first. Only very few people are still welding here. It is too easy to make errors with that. Viega has an idiot proof system. I won't mess with the gas pipe though.
Where do I start😅 This was great, I really enjoyed this... I found myself glued to it watching carefully, and I know what happens because I did the job 😂😂😂 Do you know, the amount of videos ive seen where someone does this style of video and just rips into the person, making them look like a cowboy, I think Roger has been very kind to me because he could of said all of this in a negative way but instead I feel like I've been given some guidance and advice from an uncle. All the pointers I've taken on board, wish id thought about the fan, but there's a hole now, so it's going to have to stay ( the last bathroom didn't have one) Thanks for the tips, Roger Thanks for introducing your subscribers to me (really gave my channel a boost since the last video) Just want to say that the way you've critiqued my video is really nice to watch. I think you're the best bloke for this type of video, Roger. Plenty of knowledge and delivered in a kind, constructive way. Thanks mate 🙏
Cracking job Kirk, recently done my en-suite with my dad and you've given me a catalogue of ideas. Doing my bottom bathroom soon and I'll be using quite of a few! Also long time subscriber of both you and Roger!
Wow how much knowledge my dad gave me then my son to do all these jobs in a house. As you where talking about the soldering I could hear my dads voice And even drawing the fall off. I’m a pensioner now but my son has just refit a complete shower room made a complete wet room under floor heating. He’s chef. All kids should be taught these old skills by parents and schools. Like we were. Life skills 101.
Over 50 years as a joiner (retired now) and I can't fault a thing he did. He really does put some thought into things - I've watched his plastering tips and they're the same. Just think - if our useless politicians were of the same ilk...
Kirk is a clever and conscientious man, you can tell. He’d excel in any trade he would choose. I agree, an inline fan is the way to go; they pump it out and are up in the loft out the way and can extract through the soffit or a cheeky vent tile, and you can hardly hear them. Sometimes the last thing I want to do is watch building vids but you make them interesting. Cheers 🍻
I watched Kirk's video the other day - He is impressive - I was a life-served plasterer and found plumbing to be be my Kryptonoite!! ..... Your commentary was a great and valuable addition which I'm sure Kirk appreciated as well 👍🤠
I want to shake Kirks hand, what a great guy and a cracking tradesman. Being a retired electrician with a good few years plumbing. i know the knee problem. With you on the fan Roger and I always use a 5 inch fan . But what a good job ,
I watched it as soon as he put the video up. I’m not a plumber myself but I generally know what looks bad. I thought he did a stellar job for a DIY job! It’s clear to see that he’s been exposed to a lot of other trades in his time and they’ve rubbed off positively. Well done mate!
Decent job there from Kirk… and Roger’s commentary was a positive addition. I agree the extractor would be better going out the ceiling if not to late to change. 👏🏼😉
Aside from the extractor fan it looks like a really solid job. I do agree with Rodger the loft fans are so much better and also a lot quieter especially because you won’t be able to turn it on and off very easily
Been watching Kirk for a while now and he's an absolute legend, all his videos are full of great little tips. Highly recommend Kirks channel for anyone that hasn't watched him.
He's done a lovely job, it says a lot about how he tackles his day job. My only comment on the pipework, as a DIYer myself, would be that I'd have swapped the hot/cold feeds that were going to the basin and shower. That would have simplified the loop going to the toilet, as the cold would have then already been on the bottom.
Nice job Kirk, but I can go one better😁 As a retired paramedic, I gutted and refurbished my 4 bed detached house all single-handed. That includes electrics, plumbing (except gas), tiling and dot & dab plasterboard (96 sheets!). I replaced all the stud walls, ceilings and floorboards. That was 10 years ago and nothings broken or needs replacing since 👍 By the way, I fitted the Evohome heating controls and it's been brilliant! Saved a fortune on gas!
One of the best comments that Kirk makes is to think about 'The next guy' who has to work the same area.The times I've had to try and get up chipboard flooring thats been nailed--Nightmare .Always think of the next person who has to work the same area, it could be you.
What a great video. I watched the Plasterer one with you guys, and this one’s just as good. The electrics do look a bit of a mess under the floor and the junction boxes in the Loft etc, but other than that, it’s all good. You are 100% correct in regards to the fan Roger! A better option would’ve been a ceiling mounted in-line fan with insulated duct. Fantastic content anyway! I’ve been watching you for years Roger, but recently started watching this other guy. he seems to be a decent tradesmen, and the kind that you would want working on your own property. Great job. 👍
Very informative, I learnt a lot. One comment regarding the choice of the shower head. I have found from experience that unless your bald or habitually wash your hair every day.they can be irritating to use. A flexi telephone style is much more practical....
Lol. I'm not a plumber nor plasterer and I'm doing our full bathroom refurb from joists repositioning, subfloor, new water, drainage and heating plumbing, wetroom shower, large format tiling, wall hung vanity unit, new ceiling etc etc. Lmao! Never did a bathroom before. It's all DOABLE.
Rubbish in the ceiling is horrible, especially when you have to make a hole for a downlighter. Love the fact that he's keeping the area clean. Good to have drop, I've been in there when no one has left given a drop on the waste. Breakout. I would have drilled a pilot hole as Kirk said. I started a bathroom on one ocassion, put in the pipe, when the owner came through and said, I've changes my mind about the layout! And asked me to wrap a soil pipe around the back of the house! Where I live now, the bathroom fitter didn't leave any flexibility on the waste fittimg, so now it's at an angle and the waste cover wont fit in place. He's lucky it didn't leak. I love the way Kirk is thinking ahead. I rememeber fitting a shower screen for someone. 2 days later the customer called me, and told me the tillers had stopped work because I hadn't put the screen in place squarely. In fact, they had started tilling by following the edge of the shower tray. The plumber thought it would be a good idea to tilt the tray toward the drain! My screen was perfectly square and level. Woops! The tiler was in trouble too as he hadn't used a plumb line. Then I also knew why fitting the screen had been such a pig. Lofts! On a job I had two guys put their foot through the ceiling in under an hour. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been using board adhesive to bed my trays down on a good timber and ply foundation for twenty years , never had a problem . In fact , I’ve been back to some of these jobs since to refurb the shower rooms , and the trays are still solid
The thing is that you are sticking something that has not strength onto something that may move. If you stop the movement in the floor the tray won't crack but board adhesive has no give in it.
Nice job. Learnt a few tricks for future use myself. I agree a ceiling 100mm grill, In-line mixed flow fan with over run timer, insulated ducting with a downward running outlet if you can manage it. It's the equivalent of a 150mm or even 200mm wall fan. Way better than the standard 100mm wall fan - moves 5x the airflow! Ours is over the shower head. We did the same with a stainless steel towel rail. Its been in years and not a mark on it. The cheap plated or painted ones on site usually covered with rust within two years and nee to be replaced.
We’ve just put the strong in line extractor fans above showers in our bathrooms and they work so much better and also clean the steam much faster when you switch shower off. Over run timer doesn’t need to be on long at all.
I agree about extractor through the ceiling-soffit, and a bit to learn with the solder other than that spot on job and as he says not claiming to be a plumber if its a first attempt its fantastic.
Thanks for this great video Roger. I watched the plastering video with you and Kirk on his channel and that made my find and subscribe to your channel. Can't wait to see more of your videos, guys. Well done Cheers from Belfast 👍👍👍
Extractor fan I'm with you on this one inline manrose with timer . I use 4inch drainage pipe sloping away to the outlet the white flex pipe fills up with water totally useless and eventually rots . I also fit them to a fan isolation switch it's a 3 gang switch with one switch plate . 1 pole to the main light 2nd pole to the fan 3rd pole to floor LEDs or other electrical item No separate switch to the fan or lights they all come on together and all fused individually to the correct rating . It also means the fan is run more often and the tenants have no other choice but to use the fan . This keeps the condensation down to a minimum and no mould in the bathroom .
That's an amazing job the only thing picked up on is I recently learned why framers use nails not screws in terms of floor boards. When the structure moves screws sheer under the stress nails bend but still stay in tact, I'd also assume the screw heads will be too rusty to take out properly anyway after a few years. Not craping on him though I only learned that last year. And that's a hell of a good job fair play just wanted to share knowledge as the channel taught me so much
Really informative!!! Those steel plates would have saved some friends entering a world of pain when the very last thing they did was screw in a soap holder to the new shower enclosure - and hit a pipe....
Fantastic Job... I would of thought that Roger would of told Kirk that the Isolation Kill switch for the power to the fan should be local so that someone could isolate in the event of a problem rather than spending time trying to find the switch in the loft... Put a pull cord in the bathroom for safety. Also... In this modern times, put all 230vac power going to the bathroom on a 30ma RCD
Nice work there ,just doing my own walk-in shower and removed at lease four bag of crap between the Joice even destruction is on out of it Boiler is an off cut , 👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi this is a outstanding job done by a plaster guy my question is where do you get them plates that he has put over the pipe work and do you need to cut away the wood before placing the plates so to stop a gaps when laying the floor boards thanks
yes it is best to cut notches for the plates or you can run some gun caulk along the joist tops to take up the 1mm. Buy the plates from plumber's merchant
Ive just diy 3 bathrooms and kitchens.with speedfit and copper tails to the services its pretty easy with all the options nowadays...hardest job is dressing the bath and sinks with the crap quality of some fittings.
Great job, not a tradesman by any means just the odd DiYer but I always think will this be ok for the next guy.... which will usually be myself anyhow 😏
Fan should be higher up the wall as you say Rog but he's put it in the right place, furthest from the entrance to the shower room. Seen extractor fans installed directly above the doorway into the room many, many times.
if the extractor fan is currently on the gable wall (bathroom in the middle of the house), would you suggest a ceiling extractor fan to then go though the gable wall (as too far to get to the soffit) or just a wall extractor fan with the centre point about 4" down from the ceiling?
I've been doing a bunch of DIY plastering recently, encouraged by UA-cam and those European plasters that you roll on and scrape flat and then just sand out the imperfections. I have been humbled and have a new found respect for plasterers. Really, why try and learn a skill that you will probably only need once in your life when there are masters available. Now I get to look at divots in the ceiling and lumps in the walls. And what's worse? So does my wife.
Resins tray . one of my customers had her shower tray fitted the same size . The ceiling in the kitchens collapsed when the tray split in half . I didn't fit the bathroom when I cut the tray up it was fitted on packets and expanding foam . It was fitted by a young plumber who did the whole bathroom in a day plastic wall boards stuck on with foam . The shower leaked on the panels no silicon on the aluminium joint strips . To refit new tray I had to two inches off the wall panels and lift up the shower tray and screen . The issue was caused thin joist not able to support the weight of people in the bathroom . When you walk into the bathroom you could feel floor moving . I had to double the joists up fit noggins to stiffen the floor . Weak sand and cement mix was all it took
awesome content from you both, im about to lay a mira flight shower tray on using silicone can i be safe in assuming that the mira flght is made different to a resin cast tray as im now having a slight panic attack when you mention movement /sand and cement.
If it is the Mira Flight with holes for optional legs then silicone is fine, provided you support enough points. Don't be stingy with the silicone. On resin cast tray you need sand and cement because the back is not flat.
I removed our kitchen ceiling the other day which has the bathroom and back bedroom above it. The amount that we found under the floor boards filled 2 bins(old dust bin size). Now that is a disgrace by anybodies standards...
What you find under the floorboards is all the rubbish they couldn't mix into the plaster. Before Selco, Travis Perkins and the like, plasterers used to go out into the garden and dig up a few shovel's worth of whatever they found there and mix that into the lime. Horsehair was expensive.
A few pointers I noticed Hessian pipe wrap under the pipes on the notches to stop pipes creaking same around waste pipes Bucket of water with a funnel down the shower waste before fitting the shower and check for any leaks, same with basin waste. Use flexible floor tile adhesive to bed the tray Test your outlet pipe work from the shower before boarding Put some timber grounds in the wall to screw to for the profile for shower screen and shower riser rail to.
The waste pipework was testedd, he said that. Flexible tile adhesive it not a good idea on resin cast trays. If they crack you will find the manufacturers will say that you should have bedded the tray according to their instructions. Some of those trays can be out by as much as 10mm on the back so tile adhesive may not be enough. I am fairly sure he will have timber grounds in the shower wall
@@SkillBuilder Mortar ok I suppose with resin because of the weight of the tray it will hold it down. Unfortunately cast resin trays look strong but they are quite a weak material Flexible floor tile adhesive with latex on will accommodate movement on a timber floor IMO it’s more resilient, finer aggregate, it’s bit nicer to work with. The regular mortar can go a bit crumbly on a timber floor. Lighter trays low profile trays need bonding down a bit more, definitely need tile adhesive for them, as they can loosen and lift off mortar as it doesn’t adhere to the tray very well Re: Building up you can just mix it a bit stiffer (The powder type that you add water too, not ready mixed stuff). Manufacturers instructions are a minimum requirement, but there is room for improvement
The silicone seal around the back edge of the tray will stop it moving. There is no point in gluing the tray to the floor. If the manufacturers say to use a weak mix of sand and cement and you decide not to do that, you are on your own.
Hey guys, appreciate the pointers... I was considering putting some lagging around the pipes but decided not to do it, only because they didn't have any originally and didn't make any noise. I can still get under there at this point but they don't seem to me making any creeks. I tested all the pipework and if you look close you will see water in the bottom of the trap when I drop the tray in. Good shout about giving solid grounds for fixing shower head. My plan is to use thick cement board and also there will be timber behind it. The shower screen actually fixes to a part of the wall that is solid block the bit where the shower is was actually a doorway. Hopefully the pipes won't knock because I'll kick myself 😅.. that said I'll be able to go up through the kitchen ceiling because the kitchen will be next. I feel the only substantial mistake I've made was the height of the extractor. In all honesty I didn't put it in the ceiling because I've got a shower head, 4 spotlights, and a speaker all going up there and also the fancy lighting detail that I'm going to install, I just didn't want the ceiling to be to busy. Thanks for all the pointers and advice fellas 🙏👍👍
@@Onthetrowel The hessian pipe wrap is thin enough to go in and let it will just let the pipes slide, when the hot water comes through on the hot water pipe it will expand and contract a bit, particularly in the case the timber is a bit resinous, and you’ll hear click, click, click, you won’t know with the waste pipe until you let hot water go down and the pipe starts expanding and contracting
Hi Rog, had to replace some copper in our dormer bungalow a few years back. Big bulge in ceiling but luckily stayed put. Anyhow found pipes in the side access off the upstairs all wrapped in hessian absolutely soaking, nearly the length of the bungalow. Took ages to unwrap. When I did, couldn’t see a leak. Turned water on. Still couldn’t see any thing. Then as I’m crawling I knock the torch and just at the right angle I can just see the faintest spray. When I looked along the length I could see little jets all along it, over 4 mtr long. I replaced back to next joint and its mate. I think these pipes were part of extension in 1970’s. I heard somewhere that at some time the price of copper went so high the thickness of the pipe was reduced and this was the reason. Have you come across this?
Yes I have seen that pinholing many times. Copper wall thickness was halved when there was a war in Zambia and copper was in short supply. There was also a company called Servowarm that used some kind of coppered steel or something equally weird. Dylan, our eitor, had a similar spray in his cellar and, like you, caught it in the light of a torch. This is one reason that I think pex pipe (plastic) is a superior product. I use it for all this kind of plumbing now and place the manifold above the floor level so there are no joints under the floor.
I was on the plumber's development panel for JG when they first launched plumbing fittings. They were established as a company in the brewing and automotive industries but moving over into plumbing was a struggle. Plumbers didn't trust the concept but, over the years, most people now accept that, done properly with liners in the pipe ends, the fittings are as reliable as any other method. Nearly all failures are the result of somebody not doing the job right. I have quite a lot of these fittings in my house and have used thousands in customer's homes with no problems to date. Some people don't like to use them in hidden locations but I am happy to use them in the places described. I wouldn't bury them in plaster or concrete.
I use a couple of plastic pallet straps under the tray. You can pull them out easily when you have it bedded level or just cut them off with a Stanley knife
It is all about support. The bottom of those resin cast trays can be 10mm out so you would need a lot of silicone to provide an even bed. I have seen people use lines of mortar and then silicone to provide some stability but I have never done that.
most trades many can so other trades once u know one trade u can generally do them all imo only plastering and maybe painting are the few trades where u have to learn by doing it cant just watch a video
Hello rog , just one comment when you sister the plywood to floor joists, make sure the screws are structural. If not, they can sheer . Great video, as always
Good point but the amount of deflection we are talking about when you glue and screw plywood to the side of joists is never going to sheer a screw. If you are putting ceramic tiles onto a suspended floor you need to elminate bounce and sistering plus the herringbone strutting will do that. Kirk as seen many cracked ceilings cause by joist bounce and some of those have been caused by excessive notching.
Thanks for taking the time to reply . I stand corrected . As a brit in the usa, anything that has to do with the structure here has to be nailed or structural screws. Cheers, Rog , really enjoy your channel 👍.
Charging in the bath : Ive read in the paper of many instances of people being electrocuted to death by using their phone on charge in the bath. It falls in, and even though it's low voltage, it's the wattage that kills you. Great idea to have a waterproof wireless solution
Here's a question I cannot seem to answer. For whatever reason, all the cold taps and WC's in my house are all run off the mains. What bugs me is that the taps have strainers and I have to regularly clean them out of small grains of 'grit'. Where can this be coming from?
It is coming from the mains. Every time there is a leak on the mains and they turn the water off grit and sand gets into the pipework. There is also rust. A 'Y' filter on your incoming main just after the stopcock will solve the problem. You can empty it once a year.
I'd like to ask a question if I may. I've just installed new joists 20 inches above the original floor, (all new joists) but won’t be removing old joists as there the ceiling of the downstairs room. I've removed the old floorboards and intend to use them on the top of the new floor joists, so the floor will appear to be the same as it was before but at the same level as the rest of the upper floor. I’m converting this room in to a bathroom; I've been reading up on zero rated areas and understand that but it’s not clear to me about under the floor when it comes to a bathroom. So at last to my question, is it ok to have, I.E lighting cables under the floor in a bathroom as I have some for the lights downstairs room. Any help would be appreciated.
Why are shower trays so popular in the UK. Why not just do a sloped tile floor into a drain? Seems a lot more work placing a heavy shower tray and making sure it doesn't crack vs sloping tiles?
we also have wet rooms with tiles sloping into a drain but they need to be done properly to prevent leaks. That is not as quick and easy as a shower tray.
@@SkillBuilder, Can you elaborate? The way I see it is you have to properly seal the whole room with a waterproofing kit anyway. The tiler also has to come in once on both jobs. The only extra work seems to sloping the screed? For me, that seems easier (maybe not faster) vs transporting and placing the shower tray and hoping it won't crack in the future.
I spent 15 years doing high level wetrooms and bathrooms, my least favourite job was…. Scraping off old tile adhesive stuck to plasterboard 😂 love the content
I don't think Kirk will have any problem with the amount he used. Modern plumbing fluxes have to meet strict standards of water solubility and are flushed through in hot and cold supplies. The main problem is central heating where the water is captives so filling up and emptying three times is usually enough to clean it out. Lots of plumbers use too much flux, I have been guilty of it in the past but the risk is exagerated. The fact that is is routinely used on gas supplies which are rarely, if ever, washed through illustrates the level of risk.
@@SkillBuilder never seen a pin hole caused on a gas pipe, maybe the cold water keeps it active. You don't see it on hot pipework as the hot water washes it off the pipe surface. You use to see it alot on show houses after the pipework had been all done and then not filled and so the flux dried in the pipe and then clung onto the inside of the pipe wall. Had a couple of hoses we have had to replace alot of pipework due to continual issues with pin holing.. Cut a piece out look inside and you can see a blob of flux stuck to the wall.
I’m a tradesman and I can say with complete confidence that Kirk’s plumbing is far superior to many so called professional jobs I’ve seen. Great work Kirk 👍👍
My son is a gas engineer and plumber and after watching this couldn’t really fault Kirk
It’s more about your attitude to work and safety etc than actual experience
A methodical brain and attitude towards a job is more important than a bit of specific knowledge in one area
Turn your hand to anything
I'm doing it myself right now (plumbers are overloaded, we won't wait months).
The hardest part is the 3D pipe puzzle, once that is done it is just making a plan which part to press first.
Only very few people are still welding here. It is too easy to make errors with that. Viega has an idiot proof system.
I won't mess with the gas pipe though.
Where do I start😅
This was great, I really enjoyed this... I found myself glued to it watching carefully, and I know what happens because I did the job 😂😂😂
Do you know, the amount of videos ive seen where someone does this style of video and just rips into the person, making them look like a cowboy, I think Roger has been very kind to me because he could of said all of this in a negative way but instead I feel like I've been given some guidance and advice from an uncle.
All the pointers I've taken on board, wish id thought about the fan, but there's a hole now, so it's going to have to stay ( the last bathroom didn't have one)
Thanks for the tips, Roger
Thanks for introducing your subscribers to me (really gave my channel a boost since the last video)
Just want to say that the way you've critiqued my video is really nice to watch. I think you're the best bloke for this type of video, Roger.
Plenty of knowledge and delivered in a kind, constructive way.
Thanks mate 🙏
Fully agree- when you or Roger speak - listen!!!
Cracking job Kirk, recently done my en-suite with my dad and you've given me a catalogue of ideas. Doing my bottom bathroom soon and I'll be using quite of a few! Also long time subscriber of both you and Roger!
Wow how much knowledge my dad gave me then my son to do all these jobs in a house. As you where talking about the soldering I could hear my dads voice
And even drawing the fall off. I’m a pensioner now but my son has just refit a complete shower room made a complete wet room under floor heating. He’s chef.
All kids should be taught these old skills by parents and schools. Like we were. Life skills 101.
I think kirk has done really well doing his own plumbing and other work in his bathroom. His channel is great and informative like this one
Over 50 years as a joiner (retired now) and I can't fault a thing he did. He really does put some thought into things - I've watched his plastering tips and they're the same. Just think - if our useless politicians were of the same ilk...
Kirk is a clever and conscientious man, you can tell. He’d excel in any trade he would choose.
I agree, an inline fan is the way to go; they pump it out and are up in the loft out the way and can extract through the soffit or a cheeky vent tile, and you can hardly hear them.
Sometimes the last thing I want to do is watch building vids but you make them interesting.
Cheers 🍻
Also good idea to suspend fan from fathers rather than fix to joists as it prevents vibrations/noise back into the room
@@JamesGriffin-u2w My electrician uses the rubber grommets that go into metal backboxes. Puts one under each screw. Makes a big difference.
@@gdfggggg Good idea
I watched Kirk's video the other day - He is impressive - I was a life-served plasterer and found plumbing to be be my Kryptonoite!! ..... Your commentary was a great and valuable addition which I'm sure Kirk appreciated as well 👍🤠
I want to shake Kirks hand, what a great guy and a cracking tradesman. Being a retired
electrician with a good few years plumbing. i know the knee problem. With you on the fan Roger and I always use a 5 inch fan . But what a good job ,
I watched it as soon as he put the video up. I’m not a plumber myself but I generally know what looks bad. I thought he did a stellar job for a DIY job! It’s clear to see that he’s been exposed to a lot of other trades in his time and they’ve rubbed off positively. Well done mate!
More videos with Kirk, he's great. I've been watching him for a while now and plastered half my house thanks to him (and Blaine)!
Decent job there from Kirk… and Roger’s commentary was a positive addition. I agree the extractor would be better going out the ceiling if not to late to change. 👏🏼😉
Aside from the extractor fan it looks like a really solid job. I do agree with Rodger the loft fans are so much better and also a lot quieter especially because you won’t be able to turn it on and off very easily
Been watching Kirk for a while now and he's an absolute legend, all his videos are full of great little tips. Highly recommend Kirks channel for anyone that hasn't watched him.
He's done a lovely job, it says a lot about how he tackles his day job. My only comment on the pipework, as a DIYer myself, would be that I'd have swapped the hot/cold feeds that were going to the basin and shower. That would have simplified the loop going to the toilet, as the cold would have then already been on the bottom.
Great job Kirk, and well presented Roger.
Nice job Kirk, but I can go one better😁 As a retired paramedic, I gutted and refurbished my 4 bed detached house all single-handed. That includes electrics, plumbing (except gas), tiling and dot & dab plasterboard (96 sheets!). I replaced all the stud walls, ceilings and floorboards. That was 10 years ago and nothings broken or needs replacing since 👍 By the way, I fitted the Evohome heating controls and it's been brilliant! Saved a fortune on gas!
I enjoyed the video on Kirk's channel but this was also really good listening to your pointers as he went along
great job attention to detail is great, 5* mate,
Really good to see a collaboration
Two of the best in your respective trades.
One of the best comments that Kirk makes is to think about 'The next guy' who has to work the same area.The times I've had to try and get up chipboard flooring thats been nailed--Nightmare .Always think of the next person who has to work the same area, it could be you.
Done a cracking job just a few little bits like the fan and what not but still better than Iv seen some guys who call themselves plumbers
His building as well as his plumbing is top drawer
Great video, I've learned a lot from Roger and Kirk . I've definitely learnt that I'm pretty sloppy and need to raise my game.👍
What a great video.
I watched the Plasterer one with you guys, and this one’s just as good. The electrics do look a bit of a mess under the floor and the junction boxes in the Loft etc, but other than that, it’s all good. You are 100% correct in regards to the fan Roger! A better option would’ve been a ceiling mounted in-line fan with insulated duct. Fantastic content anyway! I’ve been watching you for years Roger, but recently started watching this other guy. he seems to be a decent tradesmen, and the kind that you would want working on your own property. Great job. 👍
Quite a lovely clean job
A lovely touch with the plumb line
Great imitative
What a fantastic video he is a natural and very clever .
You can see why bathroom refurbs cost so much 🧱👍🏽👌🏼
Very informative, I learnt a lot. One comment regarding the choice of the shower head. I have found from experience that unless your bald or habitually wash your hair every day.they can be irritating to use. A flexi telephone style is much more practical....
Shave your head, it’s cheaper 👍🏻
Or just have both and let the user choose........
Lol. I'm not a plumber nor plasterer and I'm doing our full bathroom refurb from joists repositioning, subfloor, new water, drainage and heating plumbing, wetroom shower, large format tiling, wall hung vanity unit, new ceiling etc etc. Lmao! Never did a bathroom before. It's all DOABLE.
Rubbish in the ceiling is horrible, especially when you have to make a hole for a downlighter. Love the fact that he's keeping the area clean. Good to have drop, I've been in there when no one has left given a drop on the waste. Breakout. I would have drilled a pilot hole as Kirk said. I started a bathroom on one ocassion, put in the pipe, when the owner came through and said, I've changes my mind about the layout! And asked me to wrap a soil pipe around the back of the house! Where I live now, the bathroom fitter didn't leave any flexibility on the waste fittimg, so now it's at an angle and the waste cover wont fit in place. He's lucky it didn't leak. I love the way Kirk is thinking ahead. I rememeber fitting a shower screen for someone. 2 days later the customer called me, and told me the tillers had stopped work because I hadn't put the screen in place squarely. In fact, they had started tilling by following the edge of the shower tray. The plumber thought it would be a good idea to tilt the tray toward the drain! My screen was perfectly square and level. Woops! The tiler was in trouble too as he hadn't used a plumb line. Then I also knew why fitting the screen had been such a pig. Lofts! On a job I had two guys put their foot through the ceiling in under an hour. Thanks for sharing.
Haha table turning time! Awesome Rog, love it!
Absolutely awesome job fair play to him
Top bloke is Kirk
I’ve been using board adhesive to bed my trays down on a good timber and ply foundation for twenty years , never had a problem . In fact , I’ve been back to some of these jobs since to refurb the shower rooms , and the trays are still solid
The thing is that you are sticking something that has not strength onto something that may move. If you stop the movement in the floor the tray won't crack but board adhesive has no give in it.
Hi Roger Thanks for a great commentary ,a great video from kirk .👍
I love this! It's construction commenting like sports.
Watched Kirk's original and this is a great review Roger, Damp Sam take note!
Nice job. Learnt a few tricks for future use myself. I agree a ceiling 100mm grill, In-line mixed flow fan with over run timer, insulated ducting with a downward running outlet if you can manage it. It's the equivalent of a 150mm or even 200mm wall fan. Way better than the standard 100mm wall fan - moves 5x the airflow! Ours is over the shower head. We did the same with a stainless steel towel rail. Its been in years and not a mark on it. The cheap plated or painted ones on site usually covered with rust within two years and nee to be replaced.
We’ve just put the strong in line extractor fans above showers in our bathrooms and they work so much better and also clean the steam much faster when you switch shower off. Over run timer doesn’t need to be on long at all.
I agree about extractor through the ceiling-soffit, and a bit to learn with the solder other than that spot on job and as he says not claiming to be a plumber if its a first attempt its fantastic.
I would say apart from his soldering he did a superb job, I learned a few things watching this 👍
Totally the man is great to watch thanks for sharing your knowledge brilliant
What a great job Kirk did!
Thanks for this great video Roger.
I watched the plastering video with you and Kirk on his channel and that made my find and subscribe to your channel. Can't wait to see more of your videos, guys. Well done
Cheers from Belfast 👍👍👍
Good to know. Kirk is a great guy
2 top guys with great work ethics, keep up the good work lads 💪
Extractor fan I'm with you on this one inline manrose with timer . I use 4inch drainage pipe sloping away to the outlet the white flex pipe fills up with water totally useless and eventually rots . I also fit them to a fan isolation switch it's a 3 gang switch with one switch plate . 1 pole to the main light 2nd pole to the fan 3rd pole to floor LEDs or other electrical item
No separate switch to the fan or lights they all come on together and all fused individually to the correct rating . It also means the fan is run more often and the tenants have no other choice but to use the fan . This keeps the condensation down to a minimum and no mould in the bathroom .
Great video, and great work. I personally bed trays on time adhesive and it works quite well
That's an amazing job the only thing picked up on is I recently learned why framers use nails not screws in terms of floor boards.
When the structure moves screws sheer under the stress nails bend but still stay in tact, I'd also assume the screw heads will be too rusty to take out properly anyway after a few years.
Not craping on him though I only learned that last year. And that's a hell of a good job fair play just wanted to share knowledge as the channel taught me so much
Fabulous video. I'm a spread but would not be that brave. I dread to think how many times I've pulled ceilings And had God only knows falling out.
thanks very informative !!!
Top job
Really informative!!! Those steel plates would have saved some friends entering a world of pain when the very last thing they did was screw in a soap holder to the new shower enclosure - and hit a pipe....
Excellent video 👏👏
Great video SB. 🙌🏻
Very neatly done Kirk. 😉
I like the De Walt hammer trick.
🔨👊
Great video, Rog. Great job KIrk.
Thank you kindly
Amazing work Kirk 👏 🙌
Fantastic Job... I would of thought that Roger would of told Kirk that the Isolation Kill switch for the power to the fan should be local so that someone could isolate in the event of a problem rather than spending time trying to find the switch in the loft... Put a pull cord in the bathroom for safety. Also... In this modern times, put all 230vac power going to the bathroom on a 30ma RCD
Amazing job done
Very good video. I subscribe to kirks channel and love his content
Great video, Roger. 😊👍
Many thanks
I live local to kirk, I woukd have him work on my property any day
Nice work there ,just doing my own walk-in shower and removed at lease four bag of crap between the Joice even destruction is on out of it Boiler is an off cut , 👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Nice union flag 🇬🇧😊
Hi this is a outstanding job done by a plaster guy my question is where do you get them plates that he has put over the pipe work and do you need to cut away the wood before placing the plates so to stop a gaps when laying the floor boards thanks
yes it is best to cut notches for the plates or you can run some gun caulk along the joist tops to take up the 1mm.
Buy the plates from plumber's merchant
Kirks boiler flue is classed as at risk and needs putting right.
His plumbing and work was very good.
Ive just diy 3 bathrooms and kitchens.with speedfit and copper tails to the services its pretty easy with all the options nowadays...hardest job is dressing the bath and sinks with the crap quality of some fittings.
Great job, not a tradesman by any means just the odd DiYer but I always think will this be ok for the next guy.... which will usually be myself anyhow 😏
Great job but where is the rubber upstand on the tray?
Fan should be higher up the wall as you say Rog but he's put it in the right place, furthest from the entrance to the shower room. Seen extractor fans installed directly above the doorway into the room many, many times.
if the extractor fan is currently on the gable wall (bathroom in the middle of the house), would you suggest a ceiling extractor fan to then go though the gable wall (as too far to get to the soffit) or just a wall extractor fan with the centre point about 4" down from the ceiling?
Yes ceiling fan above the shower has made a big difference for us .
Kirk was very good at teaching roger how to do plumbing, i dont think roger gives a flux
“A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one.”
ua-cam.com/video/QOMMfUkwktQ/v-deo.html
Most "masters" are Jack's of most other trades in my experience.
Found some 1920 light switches under the floorboards
I've been doing a bunch of DIY plastering recently, encouraged by UA-cam and those European plasters that you roll on and scrape flat and then just sand out the imperfections. I have been humbled and have a new found respect for plasterers. Really, why try and learn a skill that you will probably only need once in your life when there are masters available. Now I get to look at divots in the ceiling and lumps in the walls. And what's worse? So does my wife.
Fill them up, sand them down
Resins tray . one of my customers had her shower tray fitted the same size . The ceiling in the kitchens collapsed when the tray split in half . I didn't fit the bathroom when I cut the tray up it was fitted on packets and expanding foam . It was fitted by a young plumber who did the whole bathroom in a day plastic wall boards stuck on with foam . The shower leaked on the panels no silicon on the aluminium joint strips . To refit new tray I had to two inches off the wall panels and lift up the shower tray and screen .
The issue was caused thin joist not able to support the weight of people in the bathroom . When you walk into the bathroom you could feel floor moving . I had to double the joists up fit noggins to stiffen the floor . Weak sand and cement mix was all it took
What screws I should use for joists sistering?
awesome content from you both, im about to lay a mira flight shower tray on using silicone can i be safe in assuming that the mira flght is made different to a resin cast tray as im now having a slight panic attack when you mention movement /sand and cement.
If it is the Mira Flight with holes for optional legs then silicone is fine, provided you support enough points. Don't be stingy with the silicone. On resin cast tray you need sand and cement because the back is not flat.
@@SkillBuilder ta for the reply roger much appreciated.👍👍
This is great.. :)
The lift music in the background
Roger,can you tell us Kirk’s channel so we can watch the rest of his bathroom videos.thanks
🍺👍✅🇬🇧
www.youtube.com/@Onthetrowel
ua-cam.com/video/DkCacZR1PsE/v-deo.html
I removed our kitchen ceiling the other day which has the bathroom and back bedroom above it.
The amount that we found under the floor boards filled 2 bins(old dust bin size).
Now that is a disgrace by anybodies standards...
you never find anything good under floorboards but I have lost a lot of tools over the years so one day I hope to find something other than crap.
What you find under the floorboards is all the rubbish they couldn't mix into the plaster. Before Selco, Travis Perkins and the like, plasterers used to go out into the garden and dig up a few shovel's worth of whatever they found there and mix that into the lime. Horsehair was expensive.
A few pointers I noticed
Hessian pipe wrap under the pipes on the notches to stop pipes creaking same around waste pipes
Bucket of water with a funnel down the shower waste before fitting the shower and check for any leaks, same with basin waste.
Use flexible floor tile adhesive to bed the tray
Test your outlet pipe work from the shower before boarding
Put some timber grounds in the wall to screw to for the profile for shower screen and shower riser rail to.
The waste pipework was testedd, he said that. Flexible tile adhesive it not a good idea on resin cast trays. If they crack you will find the manufacturers will say that you should have bedded the tray according to their instructions.
Some of those trays can be out by as much as 10mm on the back so tile adhesive may not be enough. I am fairly sure he will have timber grounds in the shower wall
@@SkillBuilder
Mortar ok I suppose with resin because of the weight of the tray it will hold it down.
Unfortunately cast resin trays look strong but they are quite a weak material
Flexible floor tile adhesive with latex on will accommodate movement on a timber floor
IMO it’s more resilient, finer aggregate, it’s bit nicer to work with. The regular mortar can go a bit crumbly on a timber floor.
Lighter trays low profile trays need bonding down a bit more, definitely need tile adhesive for them, as they can loosen and lift off mortar as it doesn’t adhere to the tray very well
Re: Building up you can just mix it a bit stiffer (The powder type that you add water too, not ready mixed stuff).
Manufacturers instructions are a minimum requirement, but there is room for improvement
The silicone seal around the back edge of the tray will stop it moving. There is no point in gluing the tray to the floor. If the manufacturers say to use a weak mix of sand and cement and you decide not to do that, you are on your own.
Hey guys, appreciate the pointers... I was considering putting some lagging around the pipes but decided not to do it, only because they didn't have any originally and didn't make any noise. I can still get under there at this point but they don't seem to me making any creeks.
I tested all the pipework and if you look close you will see water in the bottom of the trap when I drop the tray in.
Good shout about giving solid grounds for fixing shower head.
My plan is to use thick cement board and also there will be timber behind it.
The shower screen actually fixes to a part of the wall that is solid block the bit where the shower is was actually a doorway.
Hopefully the pipes won't knock because I'll kick myself 😅.. that said I'll be able to go up through the kitchen ceiling because the kitchen will be next.
I feel the only substantial mistake I've made was the height of the extractor.
In all honesty I didn't put it in the ceiling because I've got a shower head, 4 spotlights, and a speaker all going up there and also the fancy lighting detail that I'm going to install, I just didn't want the ceiling to be to busy.
Thanks for all the pointers and advice fellas 🙏👍👍
@@Onthetrowel
The hessian pipe wrap is thin enough to go in and let it will just let the pipes slide, when the hot water comes through on the hot water pipe it will expand and contract a bit, particularly in the case the timber is a bit resinous, and you’ll hear click, click, click, you won’t know with the waste pipe until you let hot water go down and the pipe starts expanding and contracting
Hi Rog, had to replace some copper in our dormer bungalow a few years back. Big bulge in ceiling but luckily stayed put. Anyhow found pipes in the side access off the upstairs all wrapped in hessian absolutely soaking, nearly the length of the bungalow. Took ages to unwrap. When I did, couldn’t see a leak. Turned water on. Still couldn’t see any thing. Then as I’m crawling I knock the torch and just at the right angle I can just see the faintest spray. When I looked along the length I could see little jets all along it, over 4 mtr long. I replaced back to next joint and its mate. I think these pipes were part of extension in 1970’s. I heard somewhere that at some time the price of copper went so high the thickness of the pipe was reduced and this was the reason. Have you come across this?
Yes I have seen that pinholing many times. Copper wall thickness was halved when there was a war in Zambia and copper was in short supply. There was also a company called Servowarm that used some kind of coppered steel or something equally weird.
Dylan, our eitor, had a similar spray in his cellar and, like you, caught it in the light of a torch. This is one reason that I think pex pipe (plastic) is a superior product. I use it for all this kind of plumbing now and place the manifold above the floor level so there are no joints under the floor.
What's your opinion on JG push fit in place's like in wall's, behind kitchen units ect. Can they be trusted .
I was on the plumber's development panel for JG when they first launched plumbing fittings. They were established as a company in the brewing and automotive industries but moving over into plumbing was a struggle. Plumbers didn't trust the concept but, over the years, most people now accept that, done properly with liners in the pipe ends, the fittings are as reliable as any other method. Nearly all failures are the result of somebody not doing the job right. I have quite a lot of
these fittings in my house and have used thousands in customer's homes with no problems to date.
Some people don't like to use them in hidden locations but I am happy to use them in the places described. I wouldn't bury them in plaster or concrete.
window suction cups to lower the tray down safely.
I use a couple of plastic pallet straps under the tray. You can pull them out easily when you have it bedded level or just cut them off with a Stanley knife
He is a sound man
A real shame that it wasn't able to happen in person. Perhaps next time... Although he said it was a one off
Is silicone not flexible enough to allow for movement of the shower tray?
It is all about support. The bottom of those resin cast trays can be 10mm out so you would need a lot of silicone to provide an even bed. I have seen people use lines of mortar and then silicone to provide some stability but I have never done that.
most trades many can so other trades once u know one trade u can generally do them all imo only plastering and maybe painting are the few trades where u have to learn by doing it cant just watch a video
nice!
Hello rog , just one comment when you sister the plywood to floor joists, make sure the screws are structural. If not, they can sheer . Great video, as always
Good point but the amount of deflection we are talking about when you glue and screw plywood to the side of joists is never going to sheer a screw. If you are putting ceramic tiles onto a suspended floor you need to elminate bounce and sistering plus the herringbone strutting will do that. Kirk as seen many cracked ceilings cause by joist bounce and some of those have been caused by excessive notching.
Thanks for taking the time to reply . I stand corrected . As a brit in the usa, anything that has to do with the structure here has to be nailed or structural screws. Cheers, Rog , really enjoy your channel 👍.
Charging in the bath : Ive read in the paper of many instances of people being electrocuted to death by using their phone on charge in the bath. It falls in, and even though it's low voltage, it's the wattage that kills you. Great idea to have a waterproof wireless solution
Which paper was that? 😂
Here's a question I cannot seem to answer. For whatever reason, all the cold taps and WC's in my house are all run off the mains. What bugs me is that the taps have strainers and I have to regularly clean them out of small grains of 'grit'. Where can this be coming from?
It is coming from the mains. Every time there is a leak on the mains and they turn the water off grit and sand gets into the pipework. There is also rust. A 'Y' filter on your incoming main just after the stopcock will solve the problem. You can empty it once a year.
The majority of people who watch this, are going to take something away - so yeah, well worth your time watching.
Look forward to part 2.
I'd like to ask a question if I may. I've just installed new joists 20 inches above the original floor, (all new joists) but won’t be removing old joists as there the ceiling of the downstairs room. I've removed the old floorboards and intend to use them on the top of the new floor joists, so the floor will appear to be the same as it was before but at the same level as the rest of the upper floor.
I’m converting this room in to a bathroom; I've been reading up on zero rated areas and understand that but it’s not clear to me about under the floor when it comes to a bathroom.
So at last to my question, is it ok to have, I.E lighting cables under the floor in a bathroom as I have some for the lights downstairs room.
Any help would be appreciated.
Tile adhesive
Why are shower trays so popular in the UK. Why not just do a sloped tile floor into a drain? Seems a lot more work placing a heavy shower tray and making sure it doesn't crack vs sloping tiles?
we also have wet rooms with tiles sloping into a drain but they need to be done properly to prevent leaks. That is not as quick and easy as a shower tray.
@@SkillBuilder, Can you elaborate? The way I see it is you have to properly seal the whole room with a waterproofing kit anyway. The tiler also has to come in once on both jobs. The only extra work seems to sloping the screed? For me, that seems easier (maybe not faster) vs transporting and placing the shower tray and hoping it won't crack in the future.
I spent 15 years doing high level wetrooms and bathrooms, my least favourite job was…. Scraping off old tile adhesive stuck to plasterboard 😂 love the content
No underfloor insulation for the heating 😮
My watching ended when i seen the kid standing on plasterboard ceiling.
Oi Oi Rog... Excess active flux can cause huge issues with pin holeing
I don't think Kirk will have any problem with the amount he used. Modern plumbing fluxes have to meet strict standards of water solubility and are flushed through in hot and cold supplies. The main problem is central heating where the water is captives so filling up and emptying three times is usually enough to clean it out. Lots of plumbers use too much flux, I have been guilty of it in the past but the risk is exagerated. The fact that is is routinely used on gas supplies which are rarely, if ever, washed through illustrates the level of risk.
@@SkillBuilder even on a cold main that's been left for a week or two... EVERFLUX😳
so tell me what happens on gas pipes? If what you say is true we have a real problem
@@SkillBuilder never seen a pin hole caused on a gas pipe, maybe the cold water keeps it active. You don't see it on hot pipework as the hot water washes it off the pipe surface.
You use to see it alot on show houses after the pipework had been all done and then not filled and so the flux dried in the pipe and then clung onto the inside of the pipe wall. Had a couple of hoses we have had to replace alot of pipework due to continual issues with pin holing.. Cut a piece out look inside and you can see a blob of flux stuck to the wall.