I'm doing my daughter's '04 WJ 4.0, 2wd Limited this weekend. Her's has a side tank gasket leaking. Your video is by far the simplest method, other guys are taking the fan/shroud and radiator out as a unit. I've replaced radiators on all our vehicles from F150s (easy), a Jeep XJ (easy) to three volvos (not easy) so I hope there aren't too many gotcha's with the WJ. Thanks for the video.
@Josh Smith It wasn't too difficult. You just need to take your time. It was my first time doing it..took me around 8 hours doing the job. If it wasn't for the UA-cam video I would have had a mechanic do it.
If youre taking about the Transmission line nut at the radiator - I could not get that to separate, but if you wrench down hard enough the radiator threaded part should pop out. You may or may not get the line head from separating from those threads. Replacing the line is what I did. The old radiator inlet was brass and the new one is aluminum and part of the radiator. I might end up preferring the brass option as time goes on. For all the transmission line supporting bolts - I often break them or drill them. I live in MN and the road salt and snow will rust weld all those bolts and other things over time. As a rule for old rusty bolts: I spray Remoil and give time for the oil to penetrate. I then wack the bolt lightly with a little hammer. Often a torch is necessary on the bolt head - to cooks all the grime and rust inside. Impact tools are very helpful. Worst case you drill them out and replace. I just got done drilling out and replacing the top alternator bolt on my 1999 jeep grand cherokee wj 4.0. The bolt head popped right off at maybe 20ft lbs of force. The bottom bolt had no issue. I ended up rotating the alternator to remove it. The broken bolt shaft on the front side of the alternator bracket with the alternator removed. I used a multi-tool with steel rated blades to cut off the bolt front and rear shafts. I then drilled it out the bolt(easier said than done, the correct drill bits make this possible). I did not fully drill out the orig bolt to it's full diameter. I drilled enough to get a smaller bolt in it tightly. I used a grade 8 bolt, nut, and a couple washers on both ends. I used brass flange to fill the gap between bolt sizes at the alternator bolt hole. Remoil is a firearm penetrating and lubing oil that seems to work better on old bolts than any other chemical I have tried. Hope this comment helps you and other people in the future.
Nathan Halbert I am a 17 year old and i am changing my radiator and it is a pain to take the bolts out if u got any tips for me it would be apperciated
slothbear boy vlogs bro just take your time man. I had to use an open end and turn them a tiny bit at a time. If you have a crows foot it might help but I can’t see how to get in there
@@slothbearboyvlogs2055 Get an egg carton and sharpie. Number the egg holes for the sequence of bolts removed. This keeps everything organized when going back in. Also, get a piece of cardboard for the cover bolts or like the water pump - where you have a water jacket bolt, and some shorter bolts. Draw the part shape and press the bolts in the spots that you removed. Mark numbers for the order removed. This can help a lot with water pump, oil pan, valve covers, heads, etc...
I changed out my radiator with a new one and this video leaves out the most important part. of showing how to install the new radiator (WT...F). For those of you at that point I will tell you that the new radiator has two plastic brackets with slots in them sticking forward that the A/C condensor pushes into. The trick is to getting the new radiator in is to get past those forward brackets then your able to push the A/C condensor into those bracket slots, once that done you'll have more room to be able to move the radiator & A/C condensor more towards the front to align the rubber posts on the bottom of the radiator into the holes in the subframe. Took me about an hour & a half to figure this out.
Rick, you are my hero today with your comment. I'm installing an aftermarket 3rd row all-aluminum radiator & new hoses on my 1999 WJ Grand Cherokee. The condenser was angled in the radiator space. The driver side "consensor support tab" was keeping the radiator from lining up in the space. Correcting the misalignment allowed the condenser to be supported inside that little tab. Only then did the radiator fit. I had to use some generic rubber bushings to stand-off the radiator from the bolt bracket. This allowed enough clearance between the radiator and the power stearing housing. The new radiator did not come with bolt bushings and the old ones were too large. The old radiator had brass inlets for the transmission fluid, and the new radiator had those inlets as part of the radiator - be careful with these. The transmission fluid lines had no issues.
My '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo has both a mechanical fan and a shroud-mounted electric cooling fan. It looks like a real tight fit to swap out the radiator.
The reason why the trans is reading high is because proper way to check 99-04 transfluid level is to have the truck RUNNING, in DRIVE, with the E-BRAKE ON. Says it right in the manual. I'm bet you will be slightly low when you check vehicle again with that method. Great video men. Next time call out socket sizes. It saves a time!
I am glad to see I am apparently not an idiot. I had to do this a couple of years back, and I was at my wits end figuring out how to get the new part back in. I thought I might lose my mind. I had a relative buy the same Jeep from the friend I fixed this for, and the radiator has gone bad again. HE's gonna be on hand to help me with this repair. An extra pair of hands sure help I'm sure.
you mention the shorter goes to the bottom.. right at that point in the video 15:41.. say you had removed the rubber transmission hose from that bottom line instead. this is where i am stuck. I don't know which rubber hose to connect the lines from the radiator to. please help me.
please help... I could not unscrew those lines on radiator so I removed the little rubber hoses from transmission that connect to them. but I did not take notice which connect back to what line. Can you help a Girl out. please
Bro awsome work you make it seem like a regular job, I hate it when videos skip thru the hard parts yeah it's a bit lengthy but I love the atte6to all the steps and with a but of humor bro. Best car part replacement video ever
There's a reason why you get rust in there, it's the water you are using. Water is a universal solvent. Water coming out of the ground (and out of your faucet or garden hose) has minerals dissolved in it. It's actually the minerals dissolved in it that gives water it's "taste" Water without minerals in it tastes flat. De-mineralized water is what you should use. Demineralized water is also called Distilled Water. It's water that's been turned to steam, then cooled and condensed back into water again. Distilling water causes dissolved minerals to particulate out of the water. When it comes down to it, when water is heated by the engine and reaches the range of the boiling point, it flashes to steam, and what minerals dissolved in it, comes out of solution. The minerals have to go somewhere so the minerals end up coating surfaces, anything it comes in contact with. Minerals like calcium, sulfur & chlorine, (which is commonly added to tap water) is very corrosive. If you would use 50/50 coolant... 50% anti-freeze & 50% distilled water... you'd never get rust in your engine or in your radiator. You could run that engine for years and the insides of it's water jacket would still be shiny new & rust-free.
I have an 03, the upper transmission line had a crack it in. Unfortunately upon removal the line broke and the top bolt is stuck with the screw. Any suggestions on how to separate the old piece?
so the transmission lines seized on my radiator...the entire washer and bolt came off while trying to remove it off radiator. so I remived the hoses that attatch to the trans lines..and did not take note of which hose goes on trans line.. my question is.. which hoes goes on upper trans line and which on lower. hope you reply soon. just pickes up new trans cooler lines . help.
yeah I wish to hell my transmission lines came out that easy.. The freakin part connected to the radiator turned when I tried taking the hard lines off of it... so Im having to hold two wrenches while forking around with this damn thing.. I hate chrystler almost as bad as fords..
Couple years ago I did mine I had to take the air conditioner condenser out and get everything out of the way I'm watching the video cuz I thought maybe you have a better way of doing it without taking the condenser off I think I might be doing it again soon
I just did my radiator in my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo all you need to do is take off the cross bra that's what he calls it 7:50 Take the hood latch off then you'll have room without taking the condenser out.👍 I saved $300
Great vid, except the fan holder in this video was broken which explains the bungee hooks. Or shroud I mean. That thing IS not easy to reach the bolts.
I take it this is the first time you guys have done a radiator on a WJ 1999 through 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee in order to do the job correctly unlike what you guys did hear you need to take the whole front fascia off of the car pull out the condenser the radiator and the transmission cooler all as one unit it comes off a lot better that way yes it takes more time but that's how their talk to do it at the dealership at Chrysler .
Yup, 4@ 10 mm bolts behind that hold the shroud & fan to the rear of the rad. Possibly they weren't there because of the work that has been done on it before. But they don't even mention them. Piss poor video that's supposed to "help" people.
Heh. Yeah, no. The fan shroud doesn't just "drop in" like that, with the trans cooler lines hooked up. I've been struggling with trying to get mine back in for the past 3 days now......
I had to this job to my Jeep about 2 years ago and it was painful to put it back. My radiator gave out today and I’m not looking forward to doing this job again this weekend.
Well looking at buying an 04 that needs a radiator so extremely helpful. Can you tell me is everything in the engine bay is righty tighty from the view of the driver or just the radiator?
There should have been 4@ 10 mm bolts holding the shroud & fan to the back of the rad. Usually only 3 get put back on because the DS lower one is a PITA! I know it had some shoddy body work or something done to it, but he doesn't even mention them. I stopped watching at that point. Piss poor "demonstration" IMO
@@JF32304 Yeah, I did my timing chain last night. Wasn't the worst ordeal in a work sense but you're always looking for a faster/easier way. I customized a 10mm combination wrench last year when I replaced the water pump. Heated the open end with a torch & bent it about 45 degrees at the neck to get at 2 of those bolts. WJ's aren't the worst to work on. Every make or model of vehicle has issues somewhere. Having people put up videos like this that are not accurate & are misleading pisses me off. Just flamboyant self indulgence on his part I think. Nice going on the 2014!
@Josh Smith pop the hood and see if you have hoses going to the fan. It's a rather cumbersome unit as well. Edit: I picked one up the other day and yeah it's an 04 H.O. that's the only reason I got it.
do not used distilled water! although it is 99% non corrisive i,it does not have the proper ion balance. use a corrosiom stopper (like water wetter) and run filtered soft water.
I'm doing my daughter's '04 WJ 4.0, 2wd Limited this weekend. Her's has a side tank gasket leaking. Your video is by far the simplest method, other guys are taking the fan/shroud and radiator out as a unit. I've replaced radiators on all our vehicles from F150s (easy), a Jeep XJ (easy) to three volvos (not easy) so I hope there aren't too many gotcha's with the WJ. Thanks for the video.
Thanks bro!! Excellent video!👍I just did my radiator on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. You saved me $300..😊
@Josh Smith It wasn't too difficult. You just need to take your time. It was my first time doing it..took me around 8 hours doing the job. If it wasn't for the UA-cam video I would have had a mechanic do it.
On that transmission line, how do I get the bolt from being stuck.?
If youre taking about the Transmission line nut at the radiator - I could not get that to separate, but if you wrench down hard enough the radiator threaded part should pop out. You may or may not get the line head from separating from those threads. Replacing the line is what I did. The old radiator inlet was brass and the new one is aluminum and part of the radiator. I might end up preferring the brass option as time goes on.
For all the transmission line supporting bolts - I often break them or drill them. I live in MN and the road salt and snow will rust weld all those bolts and other things over time.
As a rule for old rusty bolts: I spray Remoil and give time for the oil to penetrate. I then wack the bolt lightly with a little hammer. Often a torch is necessary on the bolt head - to cooks all the grime and rust inside. Impact tools are very helpful. Worst case you drill them out and replace.
I just got done drilling out and replacing the top alternator bolt on my 1999 jeep grand cherokee wj 4.0. The bolt head popped right off at maybe 20ft lbs of force. The bottom bolt had no issue. I ended up rotating the alternator to remove it. The broken bolt shaft on the front side of the alternator bracket with the alternator removed. I used a multi-tool with steel rated blades to cut off the bolt front and rear shafts. I then drilled it out the bolt(easier said than done, the correct drill bits make this possible). I did not fully drill out the orig bolt to it's full diameter. I drilled enough to get a smaller bolt in it tightly. I used a grade 8 bolt, nut, and a couple washers on both ends. I used brass flange to fill the gap between bolt sizes at the alternator bolt hole.
Remoil is a firearm penetrating and lubing oil that seems to work better on old bolts than any other chemical I have tried.
Hope this comment helps you and other people in the future.
Lol dude didn’t even have to take out the pain in the ass bolts for the fan shroud . This job isnt this easy lmao
Nathan Halbert I am a 17 year old and i am changing my radiator and it is a pain to take the bolts out if u got any tips for me it would be apperciated
slothbear boy vlogs bro just take your time man. I had to use an open end and turn them a tiny bit at a time. If you have a crows foot it might help but I can’t see how to get in there
Yeah the driver side fan shroud bolrs suck asss
@@bentleyadam21 once i got mine out i never put it back in lol... 3 bolts will hold her j fine imo haha
@@slothbearboyvlogs2055 Get an egg carton and sharpie. Number the egg holes for the sequence of bolts removed. This keeps everything organized when going back in. Also, get a piece of cardboard for the cover bolts or like the water pump - where you have a water jacket bolt, and some shorter bolts. Draw the part shape and press the bolts in the spots that you removed. Mark numbers for the order removed. This can help a lot with water pump, oil pan, valve covers, heads, etc...
I changed out my radiator with a new one and this video leaves out the most important part. of showing how to install the new radiator (WT...F). For those of you at that point I will tell you that the new radiator has two plastic brackets with slots in them sticking forward that the A/C condensor pushes into. The trick is to getting the new radiator in is to get past those forward brackets then your able to push the A/C condensor into those bracket slots, once that done you'll have more room to be able to move the radiator & A/C condensor more towards the front to align the rubber posts on the bottom of the radiator into the holes in the subframe. Took me about an hour & a half to figure this out.
Rick, you are my hero today with your comment. I'm installing an aftermarket 3rd row all-aluminum radiator & new hoses on my 1999 WJ Grand Cherokee. The condenser was angled in the radiator space. The driver side "consensor support tab" was keeping the radiator from lining up in the space. Correcting the misalignment allowed the condenser to be supported inside that little tab. Only then did the radiator fit. I had to use some generic rubber bushings to stand-off the radiator from the bolt bracket. This allowed enough clearance between the radiator and the power stearing housing. The new radiator did not come with bolt bushings and the old ones were too large. The old radiator had brass inlets for the transmission fluid, and the new radiator had those inlets as part of the radiator - be careful with these. The transmission fluid lines had no issues.
I've been doing my own work because it's stupid expensive to have it done. Thanks for sharing!!
Caaaam yes girl power! super xepensive cuz your a girl. smh
Every time I seen that clock a little piece of me died inside. 😭 but you brought me back. Thank you
Thank you much, probably saved me tons of time and money.
Thank u I’ve been so stressed no family I need to get to work this really helped me 🙏🏾
My '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo has both a mechanical fan and a shroud-mounted electric cooling fan. It looks like a real tight fit to swap out the radiator.
I remove the fan before removing the radiator. This may take more time overall but the radiator is much easier to wiggle in without the fan attached.
Good job thanks for your very helpful hints I will try it because I got to do it have a nice day
The reason why the trans is reading high is because proper way to check 99-04 transfluid level is to have the truck RUNNING, in DRIVE, with the E-BRAKE ON. Says it right in the manual. I'm bet you will be slightly low when you check vehicle again with that method.
Great video men. Next time call out socket sizes. It saves a time!
I'm disappointed.I only watch the video to see how to replace the lower radiator hose and you didn't show how😢
I am glad to see I am apparently not an idiot. I had to do this a couple of years back, and I was at my wits end figuring out how to get the new part back in. I thought I might lose my mind. I had a relative buy the same Jeep from the friend I fixed this for, and the radiator has gone bad again. HE's gonna be on hand to help me with this repair. An extra pair of hands sure help I'm sure.
you mention the shorter goes to the bottom.. right at that point in the video 15:41.. say you had removed the rubber transmission hose from that bottom line instead. this is where i am stuck. I don't know which rubber hose to connect the lines from the radiator to. please help me.
Did your Jeep have a Clutch Fan? Mine has a Clutch Fan and Electric Fan
please help... I could not unscrew those lines on radiator so I removed the little rubber hoses from transmission that connect to them. but I did not take notice which connect back to what line. Can you help a Girl out. please
Was wondering how long it would take your partner to realize that line was keeping it from coming out lol. I was waiting for it to get ripped out lol
@Josh Smith 25:22 😊😊
Bro awsome work you make it seem like a regular job, I hate it when videos skip thru the hard parts yeah it's a bit lengthy but I love the atte6to all the steps and with a but of humor bro. Best car part replacement video ever
he leaves the hard parts out
One the fan pulls right out. Second your advice on how to fit the new one in was great got it in less than 5 mins
Very useful video. Thank you for uploading
All good but why wather at the end , antifriz is also lubricant for pump and anticorosive for the block
There's a reason why you get rust in there, it's the water you are using. Water is a universal solvent. Water coming out of the ground (and out of your faucet or garden hose) has minerals dissolved in it. It's actually the minerals dissolved in it that gives water it's "taste" Water without minerals in it tastes flat.
De-mineralized water is what you should use. Demineralized water is also called Distilled Water. It's water that's been turned to steam, then cooled and condensed back into water again. Distilling water causes dissolved minerals to particulate out of the water. When it comes down to it, when water is heated by the engine and reaches the range of the boiling point, it flashes to steam, and what minerals dissolved in it, comes out of solution. The minerals have to go somewhere so the minerals end up coating surfaces, anything it comes in contact with. Minerals like calcium, sulfur & chlorine, (which is commonly added to tap water) is very corrosive.
If you would use 50/50 coolant... 50% anti-freeze & 50% distilled water... you'd never get rust in your engine or in your radiator. You could run that engine for years and the insides of it's water jacket would still be shiny new & rust-free.
ur wrong
You are absolutely right Bobby D.
I took the shroud attached with the radiator out same time easy o also had a fan clutch
Fuckin comedy and education in one🤣, loved this tutorial. Thank you!
Why is the radiator moving around so much? Maybe I missed something but I never saw you put the bolts back in to hold it the body.
That's some funny sh*t.... now I look forward to replacing mine
thanks for the laugh...great filming too! just put a engine in my 2000 larado and it sucked. now its done I can heal up.
this is a joke. Why didnt you discuss taking the 4 bolts out that hold the fan on?
I have an 03, the upper transmission line had a crack it in. Unfortunately upon removal the line broke and the top bolt is stuck with the screw. Any suggestions on how to separate the old piece?
so the transmission lines seized on my radiator...the entire washer and bolt came off while trying to remove it off radiator. so I remived the hoses that attatch to the trans lines..and did not take note of which hose goes on trans line.. my question is.. which hoes goes on upper trans line and which on lower. hope you reply soon. just pickes up new trans cooler lines . help.
I've seen enough to know, I ain't doin' this job myself. Lakeside Radiator, you'll be getting a call soon.
Its not a bad process, but it is kind of messy. The second radiator you replace will be so much easier than the first.
what year is this? why did you not remove the front grille and fascia?
the upper trans cooling line from the radiator connects back to which steel line on transmission? the top or bottom. help a girl out.. anyone?
yeah I wish to hell my transmission lines came out that easy.. The freakin part connected to the radiator turned when I tried taking the hard lines off of it... so Im having to hold two wrenches while forking around with this damn thing.. I hate chrystler almost as bad as fords..
Couple years ago I did mine I had to take the air conditioner condenser out and get everything out of the way I'm watching the video cuz I thought maybe you have a better way of doing it without taking the condenser off I think I might be doing it again soon
I just did my radiator in my Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo all you need to do is take off the cross bra that's what he calls it 7:50
Take the hood latch off then you'll have room without taking the condenser out.👍 I saved $300
Great vid, except the fan holder in this video was broken which explains the bungee hooks. Or shroud I mean. That thing IS not easy to reach the bolts.
I take it this is the first time you guys have done a radiator on a WJ 1999 through 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee in order to do the job correctly unlike what you guys did hear you need to take the whole front fascia off of the car pull out the condenser the radiator and the transmission cooler all as one unit it comes off a lot better that way yes it takes more time but that's how their talk to do it at the dealership at Chrysler .
that would`ve saved them a lot of time trying to get the dang thing in lol
Supposed to use distilled water...if you want a rusted up thermostat
then just use tap water
Does the fan have clips? Or bolts?
Yup, 4@ 10 mm bolts behind that hold the shroud & fan to the rear of the rad.
Possibly they weren't there because of the work that has been done on it before. But they don't even mention them. Piss poor video that's supposed to "help" people.
@@Rottidog Looked to me like they were all broke the fuck off, which is why there was the bungees holding the shroud flush to the radiator.
Heh. Yeah, no. The fan shroud doesn't just "drop in" like that, with the trans cooler lines hooked up.
I've been struggling with trying to get mine back in for the past 3 days now......
I just finally found out where my jeep coolant is going, my radiator is leaking too. Looks like i have to do this on my truck now. Just Great!
I had to this job to my Jeep about 2 years ago and it was painful to put it back. My radiator gave out today and I’m not looking forward to doing this job again this weekend.
ivan botello Only lasted 2 yrs.Getting one put in now at radiator shop....$200 complete
i love jeeps
At least the leak wasn't leaking on the exhaust manifold! No smoke!
Я не знаю английский язык, но я всёпонял. Спасибо братан.
Where's the waterpump fan?? You're not just pulling that out!
Well looking at buying an 04 that needs a radiator so extremely helpful. Can you tell me is everything in the engine bay is righty tighty from the view of the driver or just the radiator?
He didn't show how the fan comes out, he skipped a step to make it look easier.
It's an electric not a hydraulic, which is easier. The fact that the front support bar can be moved forward is HUGE! I'm doing mine this weekend.
There should have been 4@ 10 mm bolts holding the shroud & fan to the back of the rad.
Usually only 3 get put back on because the DS lower one is a PITA!
I know it had some shoddy body work or something done to it, but he doesn't even mention them.
I stopped watching at that point. Piss poor "demonstration" IMO
I think that fan was held in by bungee cords lol
@@JF32304 i just did one and i had both the fan with fan clutch and a electric fan
@@justzayit5082 oh ok I gotcha. I got rid of my rig and picked up a 2014. I was so tired of working on it all the time. Gets old real fast.
Great video. I'm gonna hit this on Sat. Are you ex-Navy? You have the attitude and confidence of a good Machinists Mate.
This whole job was done wrong man trust me lol
care to explain?
? how did u remove fan
by removing certain bolts. :)
@@JF32304 Yup, didn't show the 4 bolts that are supposed to be there holding the shroud & fan to the back of the rad.
Didn't even mention them.
@@Rottidog I changed mine out and it sucked! I have since sold that vehicle and bought a 2014 Grand Cherokee and what world of difference!
@@JF32304 Yeah, I did my timing chain last night. Wasn't the worst ordeal in a work sense but you're always looking for a faster/easier way.
I customized a 10mm combination wrench last year when I replaced the water pump. Heated the open end with a torch & bent it about 45 degrees at the neck to get at 2 of those bolts.
WJ's aren't the worst to work on. Every make or model of vehicle has issues somewhere.
Having people put up videos like this that are not accurate & are misleading pisses me off.
Just flamboyant self indulgence on his part I think.
Nice going on the 2014!
@@Rottidog Looked to me like they were all broke the fuck off, which is why there was the bungees holding the shroud flush to the radiator.
You didn't show how to remove the engine fan blade and a few other important things. No good 👎
No shit that's what I'm looking at.
Bro can't even get the radiator cap off😂😂
People play takeoff the to turn on the car switch how do you take it off
M
Takeoff the switch to turn on the car how you you take it off
I got a little bit on my lips 👄!😂
Actually 99-04 aren't the same 2001 started using hydrolic cooling fans instead of electric fans
the 4.7 did not the 4.0
why the F* no body has the clutch fan anymore
This is a different year. Mine is an 04 overland with hydraulic fan and I'm doing my radiator this weekend... Will definitely be interesting.
Mine has both
@Josh Smith pop the hood and see if you have hoses going to the fan. It's a rather cumbersome unit as well.
Edit: I picked one up the other day and yeah it's an 04 H.O. that's the only reason I got it.
Don't quit your day jobs 😂
do not used distilled water! although it is 99% non corrisive i,it does not have the proper ion balance. use a corrosiom stopper (like water wetter) and run filtered soft water.
You sound stupid.
Where do you get filtered soft water ?