For the bottom bolts on the fan shroud, I used my 12-point box wrench. Tedious and slow, but got it done. Also, for the lower driver side bolt, I pulled the lower radiator hose off of the radiator and moved it aside. This was for a water pump replacement, so the radiator hose had to come off anyway. I think this was easier than moving the radiator.
Be aware everyone that these fans *DO* go intermittent. If you have unexplained occasional overheating, particularly at bumper to bumper traffic but the fan seems to work when you check it, change it anyway. These last about 150K miles from the factory. There are four spring loaded brushes in the fan motor. While the brushes are good for 300K miles, the plated stamped metal brush housings that contain the brushes and push springs start to deplate and rust. The brushes then get stuck and don't make firm contact against the commutator. Cleaning the housing is temporary as the degraded plating will soon rust up and again bind the brushes.
Yes, I've had 2 instances of seemingly random overheating in street traffic in the last 3 years, usually happens just once every other summer. 2, 3 hours after sitting with engine off everything works just fine. I thought my problem was the thermostat, because fan checked out ok when tested with a Power Prove III. I'll b damn!, Thanks for the heads-up!!
I just got finished doing a radiator fan on a 2000 GC 4.0 identical to the one in the video. Quite honestly was able to remove the bottom 2 shroud fasteners with a 10mm open/box using the open end tilted at a slight angle. Yes the bolts were tight and yes the wrench slipped off several times...but totally doable. the only other thing I had to disconnect was the upper radiator hose. About 1/2 hour to remove all said and done.
Appreciate the tips and the feedback James. Thanks for watching and for using this video to take on your repair. Dont forget to subscribe and check out my other videos.
Thanks for your suggestion to use the combination wrench. For the bottom bolts on the fan shroud, I used my 12-point box wrench. Tedious and slow, but got it done. Also, for the lower driver side bolt, I pulled the lower radiator hose off of the radiator and moved it aside. This was for a water pump replacement, so the radiator hose had to come off anyway. I think this was easier than moving the radiator. I also used my 1 1/16 12-point box wrench to remove the oil pressure sensor.
I fully agree with you. Could have been alot easier. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe and sorry for the delay in getting back to your comment.
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 My jeep has two fans one electric and another attached to the engine in this video I only saw one fan? Question can you still remove the radiator fan assembly with the second fan or do you have to remove the engine fan?
Not sure if I mentioned it in the video but I use a 1/4 drive swivel 10mm socket. The shorter the better. Here is an example: www.walmart.com/ip/KD-Tools-80256-1-4-inch-Drive-Flex-Socket-10mm/22967899?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1235&adid=22222222227017321091&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=51754349591&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-59286072691&wl5=9011146&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112354589&wl11=online&wl12=22967899&wl13=&veh=sem
@@MotorCityMechanic what he means you stopped this video on taking the support lose and started the other video with the shroud and fan already on the ground. But he is needing to see how you manuvered the radiator to get to the bolts.
I've done this both ways now; from the bottom and this method. Backing the radiator out and getting the bolts from the top takes about the same amount of time, but is a lot easier even if there is more to do. I even put the bolt behind the steering box back this time. If I have to replace another Jeep GC radiator, I'll do it from the top.
A lot of the 4.0 WJ's have a mechanical fan from the factory, not aftermarket. My '99 is stock and has both the electric fan and the mechanical fan (and NO tow package). Some people also think the mechanical fan was only on the WJ's with a tow package, but that isn't the case either.
Over the years I have seen both set ups....never put much thought into which and why. Thanks for that added info and for watching the video. Make sure to subscribe.
+Steven Suchy Suchy Your most likely correct. Not sure why I didn't include the 2004. I am sure that had to be a reason but its been a lot time since I made the video so please excuse me for possibly making that mistake. Thanks for pointing out.
Hi, I’m trying to find a video on removing the electric radiator fan on a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 6 cylinder. Any help appreciated,thanks. The code I have is a PO480, but fan still works without any overheating as soon as I clear the code it comes back immediately.
Hi I have jeep grand cherokee 2015 I have paid moor then 1200$ but problem not solve. Problem in car is when engine start with air condition cooling fan is working on temperature high and low but if I stop air condition engine goes high and cooling fan is not turn on kindly request to help me.
I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 straight six however, I have a factory clutch fan with the electric one. I believe it also has a transmission cooler as well. Is the electric fan swap out very similar with this combination as it is without a clutch fan? Thanks
Hard to say at this point. Its going to take some checking. First step is checking for codes and then work you way from there to see if its something simple or more indepth. Its one of those items I need my hands on the check out....not anything I can point you toward based on that symptom at the moment. Thanks or asking and make sure to subscribe.
so I randomly got a p1491 code on my wj, so I check the electric fan relay and it was basically split in two. Im like okay easy enough, swap it out and let her idle to temp and go to check to see if the fan turns on....... just noticed I don't even have an electric fan lmao..... :|
The Jeep in the video didn't come equipped with a mechanical fan. Just the electric. Thanks for watching, sorry that this vehicle didn't include that step. Make sure to subscribe
Thanks for the video. I paid a shop $410 (parts/labor) to replace my fan back in 2012. Did it my self for $90 this time. I was dreading those two bottom shroud bolts but it turns out they were missing. Did my shop forget to put them back last time? Did the previous owner loose them? Who knows. I saved a lot of time not having to mess with them. The new fan seems to be working fine with only the top two bolts holding the shroud. May be when the weather cools I'll replace the missing bolts on the bottom.
Yeah someone didn't want to fight the bolts going back for sure. I see it from time to time. I prefer at least 3 bolts if not all 4. Thanks for the update and for watching. Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already
Now that works great of replacing…I am all for it. But if you removing and reinstalling the same fan for other reasons…..not so much. That’s the main reason a title it removal and not replacement just for this reason. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I don't know if it will work afterwards. You need to have a way to operate the electrical portion. I personally haven't tried it so I can't say for sure what will be needed
i did it! just take off the fan i get the electric and the clutch fan and replaced the power stering pump from a regular(the one it comes with the hydraulic fan has 3 houses and coulnt make it work propertly) and its working good so far!
Sweet! One question.....how did you get the electric fan to work? Guess my question is that if you used a factory electric fan assembly.....how did you get it to work? Glad that its working for you
+MotorCity Mechanic i use a relay connectect to the fuse box i find a wire that works when you ignition there is a temperature switch also but was 50bucks i spend 4 bucks on the relay and its been working fine
I can only figure that they never personally open the hood so to them it doesnt matter or the 2-3 times a year it gets open for oil changes dont justify it. I wish we would just go back to the old rod style....we have them still on some vehicles....they never fail lol.
Without these videos it would be a real puzzle. Saves a lot of time and money for the backyard mechanic. Thanks.
Your welcome and thank you!
For the bottom bolts on the fan shroud, I used my 12-point box wrench. Tedious and slow, but got it done. Also, for the lower driver side bolt, I pulled the lower radiator hose off of the radiator and moved it aside. This was for a water pump replacement, so the radiator hose had to come off anyway. I think this was easier than moving the radiator.
this is exactly what i did....who designed this stuff jesus....spent an hour on something that should take 5 minutes
Be aware everyone that these fans *DO* go intermittent. If you have unexplained occasional overheating, particularly at bumper to bumper traffic but the fan seems to work when you check it, change it anyway. These last about 150K miles from the factory. There are four spring loaded brushes in the fan motor. While the brushes are good for 300K miles, the plated stamped metal brush housings that contain the brushes and push springs start to deplate and rust. The brushes then get stuck and don't make firm contact against the commutator. Cleaning the housing is temporary as the degraded plating will soon rust up and again bind the brushes.
Yes, I've had 2 instances of seemingly random overheating in street traffic in the last 3 years, usually happens just once every other summer. 2, 3 hours after sitting with engine off everything works just fine. I thought my problem was the thermostat, because fan checked out ok when tested with a Power Prove III. I'll b damn!, Thanks for the heads-up!!
I just got finished doing a radiator fan on a 2000 GC 4.0 identical to the one in the video. Quite honestly was able to remove the bottom 2 shroud fasteners with a 10mm open/box using the open end tilted at a slight angle. Yes the bolts were tight and yes the wrench slipped off several times...but totally doable. the only other thing I had to disconnect was the upper radiator hose. About 1/2 hour to remove all said and done.
Appreciate the tips and the feedback James. Thanks for watching and for using this video to take on your repair. Dont forget to subscribe and check out my other videos.
Thanks for your suggestion to use the combination wrench. For the bottom bolts on the fan shroud, I used my 12-point box wrench. Tedious and slow, but got it done. Also, for the lower driver side bolt, I pulled the lower radiator hose off of the radiator and moved it aside. This was for a water pump replacement, so the radiator hose had to come off anyway. I think this was easier than moving the radiator. I also used my 1 1/16 12-point box wrench to remove the oil pressure sensor.
Thanks! I found this step by step VERY useful!
I never thought taking a fan shroud off would be so damn difficult
I fully agree with you. Could have been alot easier. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Make sure to subscribe and sorry for the delay in getting back to your comment.
very good mechanic i found everything you said was 100% esp them bolts by the frame
Many thanks. The kind words are appreciated. Subscribe and check out some of my other videos.
huge help!
Glad I could help out
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 My jeep has two fans one electric and another attached to the engine in this video I only saw one fan? Question can you still remove the radiator fan assembly with the second fan or do you have to remove the engine fan?
Did not including removing the fan shroud bolts. Would like to know how you got the one out of the lower driver's side.
Not sure if I mentioned it in the video but I use a 1/4 drive swivel 10mm socket. The shorter the better. Here is an example: www.walmart.com/ip/KD-Tools-80256-1-4-inch-Drive-Flex-Socket-10mm/22967899?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1235&adid=22222222227017321091&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=51754349591&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-59286072691&wl5=9011146&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112354589&wl11=online&wl12=22967899&wl13=&veh=sem
Right this is the only thing that is hard and no videos show it
@@MotorCityMechanic what he means you stopped this video on taking the support lose and started the other video with the shroud and fan already on the ground. But he is needing to see how you manuvered the radiator to get to the bolts.
I've done this both ways now; from the bottom and this method. Backing the radiator out and getting the bolts from the top takes about the same amount of time, but is a lot easier even if there is more to do. I even put the bolt behind the steering box back this time. If I have to replace another Jeep GC radiator, I'll do it from the top.
+ohger1 Thanks for all that detailed info. It is greatly appreciated and helps other viewers as well. Don't forget to subscribe
A lot of the 4.0 WJ's have a mechanical fan from the factory, not aftermarket. My '99 is stock and has both the electric fan and the mechanical fan (and NO tow package). Some people also think the mechanical fan was only on the WJ's with a tow package, but that isn't the case either.
Over the years I have seen both set ups....never put much thought into which and why. Thanks for that added info and for watching the video. Make sure to subscribe.
1999-2003... isn't it 1999-2004 ?
+Steven Suchy Suchy Your most likely correct. Not sure why I didn't include the 2004. I am sure that had to be a reason but its been a lot time since I made the video so please excuse me for possibly making that mistake. Thanks for pointing out.
I HAVE A 2001 JGC 4.0 MY FAN STARTED TO BRUSH AGAINST THE COWL WHEN ON WHY?
Typically if a fan starts rubbing against its shroud its because of a bearing failure. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
Hi, I’m trying to find a video on removing the electric radiator fan on a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 6 cylinder. Any help appreciated,thanks. The code I have is a PO480, but fan still works without any overheating as soon as I clear the code it comes back immediately.
All you need for the bottom is a 10 mm wrench on passenger side and swivel and socket on driver
Hi
I have jeep grand cherokee 2015 I have paid moor then 1200$ but problem not solve.
Problem in car is when engine start with air condition cooling fan is working on temperature high and low but if I stop air condition engine goes high and cooling fan is not turn on kindly request to help me.
I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 straight six however, I have a factory clutch fan with the electric one. I believe it also has a transmission cooler as well. Is the electric fan swap out very similar with this combination as it is without a clutch fan? Thanks
See also: the towing package
Hey boss I have a 2000 4.7 and my fan turns on when I try to start the car but the car doesn't what could it be
Hard to say at this point. Its going to take some checking. First step is checking for codes and then work you way from there to see if its something simple or more indepth. Its one of those items I need my hands on the check out....not anything I can point you toward based on that symptom at the moment. Thanks or asking and make sure to subscribe.
so I randomly got a p1491 code on my wj, so I check the electric fan relay and it was basically split in two. Im like okay easy enough, swap it out and let her idle to temp and go to check to see if the fan turns on....... just noticed I don't even have an electric fan lmao..... :|
you did not show removing clutch fan from waterpump.
The Jeep in the video didn't come equipped with a mechanical fan. Just the electric. Thanks for watching, sorry that this vehicle didn't include that step. Make sure to subscribe
2004
Thanks for the video. I paid a shop $410 (parts/labor) to replace my fan back in 2012. Did it my self for $90 this time. I was dreading those two bottom shroud bolts but it turns out they were missing. Did my shop forget to put them back last time? Did the previous owner loose them? Who knows. I saved a lot of time not having to mess with them. The new fan seems to be working fine with only the top two bolts holding the shroud. May be when the weather cools I'll replace the missing bolts on the bottom.
Yeah someone didn't want to fight the bolts going back for sure. I see it from time to time. I prefer at least 3 bolts if not all 4. Thanks for the update and for watching. Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already
All this work when you can just break off the plastic that’s attached to the bolts
Now that works great of replacing…I am all for it. But if you removing and reinstalling the same fan for other reasons…..not so much. That’s the main reason a title it removal and not replacement just for this reason. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
is there a way to eliminate the hydraulic fan and just add an electric and the one it goes to the water pump with clutch?
I don't know if it will work afterwards. You need to have a way to operate the electrical portion. I personally haven't tried it so I can't say for sure what will be needed
i did it! just take off the fan i get the electric and the clutch fan and replaced the power stering pump from a regular(the one it comes with the hydraulic fan has 3 houses and coulnt make it work propertly) and its working good so far!
Sweet! One question.....how did you get the electric fan to work? Guess my question is that if you used a factory electric fan assembly.....how did you get it to work? Glad that its working for you
+MotorCity Mechanic i use a relay connectect to the fuse box i find a wire that works when you ignition there is a temperature switch also but was 50bucks i spend 4 bucks on the relay and its been working fine
+Jose Garcia i mean it works with the ignition if you take the key out it turns off
why do you guy leave your hood struts shot where you have to use a dang prop stick? you can literally buy cheap struts on Amazon for next to nothing.
It’s a customers car.....they don’t want to buy when I recommend it then That’s that way it stays. Not my car
fully understand my man 👍I watch a lot of your videos, I know you would change them. my comment was more for the people such as the owner of this rig.
I can only figure that they never personally open the hood so to them it doesnt matter or the 2-3 times a year it gets open for oil changes dont justify it. I wish we would just go back to the old rod style....we have them still on some vehicles....they never fail lol.
@@MotorCityMechanic now you hot a point there. 👍
It's actually to 2004 lmao 😂😂
Upto 2004 my man not 2003