Loving your content! Very informative. On the stock WC 223 you are tearing down, do you think those whimpy 10.8 lb valve springs and the cast steel flywheel can manage 5k rpm on peaks? I think i would worry more about valve float with those springs vs the sturdiness of the stock flywheel. Am i way off?
Yep! The 10.8# springs will get you to 5k rpms with a stock cam. We do not trust stock rods and flywheels above the governed rpm limits on any of these engines and do not condone the removal or altering of the governor unless a billet flywheel and connecting rod are used. The stock parts are not designed for that and can fail! My take? Either build it right or leave the governor alone! Probably not what you wanted to hear!
@@TheGrayGoatGarage no... I appreciate the candor and the advice. The WC 223 is an enigma to me tho, since it has BOTH an electronic 4k coil limiter, AND the mechanical governor. I believe that governor is set at 3.3k on the weights. Weird IMO. I plan to try a stage 1 exhaust and intake mod, and delete the governor as a start. I feel like the 4K coil limiter left on offers a lot of protection on the cast iron flywheel. I would not up it to 5k+ without billet parts.. but if I am right... 3.3k weights on the internal governor is pretty weak. I feel like they sold a solid platform, with 100% intent of letting guys like you loose on it 😁
With that different round exhaust port, can you still use the standard (GX200) headers with the flat side design, if so do you need a different kind of gasket?
I know I’m a bit late on this video but could you tell me is the cylinder bore Nikasil ? I Couldn’t see a liner in the video and do these come in a non hemi head? Glad your Chanel found me I just Subscribed.
It should, but there is no way to know unless you had it ultrasound tested. If the liner shifted when casting the block you would not know until after it was bored out! You should be fine but no way to 100% guarantee it
There is no replacement for displacement! The long stroke makes a modded 223 a torque monster! This engine for built for our sponsored racer. With a modded torque converter in a Coleman CT200U-EX he can lift the front wheel at 30 mph!
Are you going to notch the piston for valve clearance? I have a 18 cc Tillotson hemi ad I had to cut .025 valve reliefs my piston sat at almost flush TDC and I only have .018 clearance
I did not have to cut valve reliefs in the piston. I would up with more that .080” clearance between the valve and piston. That is the minimum clearance for the exhaust valve. The intake runs cooler and can have .060” clearance. You are awfully tight there!
My build is actually a 70mm Tillotson race block with ceramic bearings and a 56mm crank NR mongoose 272 cam .570 preditor flat top and I bought the wrong rod. This all started as a 212E Tillotson hemi so ya I bought a 3.308 rod that takes a 18 mm pin. Thank you for responding now I can buy a shorter rod to give me some more clearance. It is roped off with a 18 cc Tillotson hemi that has 5 mm valves 27mm and 25 mm with 3 angle valve job fed buy a 26 mm Nibbi D slide my head was also ported n polished buy the man that built the head 26# springs. When I figured the compression I was at 12.9:1 and that is a little higher then I was shouting for with a shorter rod I can get back to 101 pump gas what fuel do they run in that Wildcat I also can put a thicker head gasket. You are showing me how to build a engine that can be run the info I was getting before was for high octane race engines that will run like a rapped ape but will not take the repeated abuse that my son and I are going to give it I am glad I finally found someone with the experience and knowledge I have been looking for most of the U tube so called master builders are either methanol racers or backwoods reusing gasket types thank god there are people like yourself that can give me tolerances that actually work in the real world I actually was told that .020 intake and .025 exhaust I used Plato to achieve that but I am going to take your advice
Do you have any experience with the forged rod that EC is producing I know it is long and forged and only $10 or $15 extra compared to an ARC rod I am honestly supper impressed with EC products
The bore and stroke are the same but there are other differences. The Wildcat has a stronger block and side cover. It also uses a hemi head where the 224 uses the legacy straight valve head. The wildcat appears to be a great engine but I chose the 224 because I prefer the straight valve head.
Still come to your vid for WC 223 references. What valve lash gaps are yiu using on a wildcat? .005 on both intake and exhaust?
Set the lash at .003” on both sides. This will make the engine easier to start hot or cold and will improve performance
Loving your content! Very informative. On the stock WC 223 you are tearing down, do you think those whimpy 10.8 lb valve springs and the cast steel flywheel can manage 5k rpm on peaks? I think i would worry more about valve float with those springs vs the sturdiness of the stock flywheel. Am i way off?
Yep! The 10.8# springs will get you to 5k rpms with a stock cam.
We do not trust stock rods and flywheels above the governed rpm limits on any of these engines and do not condone the removal or altering of the governor unless a billet flywheel and connecting rod are used.
The stock parts are not designed for that and can fail!
My take? Either build it right or leave the governor alone!
Probably not what you wanted to hear!
@@TheGrayGoatGarage no... I appreciate the candor and the advice. The WC 223 is an enigma to me tho, since it has BOTH an electronic 4k coil limiter, AND the mechanical governor. I believe that governor is set at 3.3k on the weights. Weird IMO. I plan to try a stage 1 exhaust and intake mod, and delete the governor as a start. I feel like the 4K coil limiter left on offers a lot of protection on the cast iron flywheel. I would not up it to 5k+ without billet parts.. but if I am right... 3.3k weights on the internal governor is pretty weak. I feel like they sold a solid platform, with 100% intent of letting guys like you loose on it 😁
With that different round exhaust port, can you still use the standard (GX200) headers with the flat side design, if so do you need a different kind of gasket?
I know I’m a bit late on this video but could you tell me is the cylinder bore Nikasil ? I Couldn’t see a liner in the video and do these come in a non hemi head? Glad your Chanel found me I just Subscribed.
These engines have cast iron cylinders
It also has a Hemi type head with chanted valves
will this block take an overbore to 72mm?
It should, but there is no way to know unless you had it ultrasound tested. If the liner shifted when casting the block you would not know until after it was bored out!
You should be fine but no way to 100% guarantee it
wear do you get your wildcat from
www.ombwarehouse.com/wildcat-223cc-performance-engine-wc223.html
would you say this is a better option instead of the 212? seeing as it has slight improvements over the 212 predators
Predators have always been a cheap Chinese utility engine. This engine is a much better choice unless the initial cost is a concern.
There is no replacement for displacement! The long stroke makes a modded 223 a torque monster! This engine for built for our sponsored racer. With a modded torque converter in a Coleman CT200U-EX he can lift the front wheel at 30 mph!
Are you going to notch the piston for valve clearance? I have a 18 cc Tillotson hemi ad I had to cut .025 valve reliefs my piston sat at almost flush TDC and I only have .018 clearance
I did not have to cut valve reliefs in the piston. I would up with more that .080” clearance between the valve and piston. That is the minimum clearance for the exhaust valve. The intake runs cooler and can have .060” clearance. You are awfully tight there!
My build is actually a 70mm Tillotson race block with ceramic bearings and a 56mm crank NR mongoose 272 cam .570 preditor flat top and I bought the wrong rod. This all started as a 212E Tillotson hemi so ya I bought a 3.308 rod that takes a 18 mm pin. Thank you for responding now I can buy a shorter rod to give me some more clearance. It is roped off with a 18 cc Tillotson hemi that has 5 mm valves 27mm and 25 mm with 3 angle valve job fed buy a 26 mm Nibbi D slide my head was also ported n polished buy the man that built the head 26# springs. When I figured the compression I was at 12.9:1 and that is a little higher then I was shouting for with a shorter rod I can get back to 101 pump gas what fuel do they run in that Wildcat I also can put a thicker head gasket. You are showing me how to build a engine that can be run the info I was getting before was for high octane race engines that will run like a rapped ape but will not take the repeated abuse that my son and I are going to give it I am glad I finally found someone with the experience and knowledge I have been looking for most of the U tube so called master builders are either methanol racers or backwoods reusing gasket types thank god there are people like yourself that can give me tolerances that actually work in the real world I actually was told that .020 intake and .025 exhaust I used Plato to achieve that but I am going to take your advice
Do you have any experience with the forged rod that EC is producing I know it is long and forged and only $10 or $15 extra compared to an ARC rod I am honestly supper impressed with EC products
@@alexlacroix9515 i bought one - seems nice but not assembled yet
Does this take a hot265 hemi cam?
Yes. The Wildcat and Predator 212 Hemi use the same cam
Thank you!
Subscribed!
No clearance issues is it plug n play?
?? But
Is this the same as the new 224?
The bore and stroke are the same but there are other differences. The Wildcat has a stronger block and side cover. It also uses a hemi head where the 224 uses the legacy straight valve head.
The wildcat appears to be a great engine but I chose the 224 because I prefer the straight valve head.