The newer Phase 5 boards are brown and they have better reliability than the greys in my opinion. I have a Fisher & Paykel MW059NZ which hasn’t given me any trouble since I’ve had it because it has the newer board.
blue green yellow where some of the best - once u got into grey - they always blow a fuse most times - brown is somewhat betetr but not by much - seems water form values gets into them- still there fun to pick up and repair and make some pocket money
Oh another thing too to realise is the phase 6 boards are now like phase 7 design which is really confusing. So when you go to change a phase 6 make sure it’s the correct part number as well as the existing board.
Thats why i said you must check the part number on the old board before you buy the new board as it'll be different to the older ones. SD11 and SD12 have the same part number. IW11 boards are same brown board but different part numbers.
Regarding your F&P if you do find a board for it make sure you carry out the tests shown in this video here ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.htmlsi=MzXtp6Hu75JdUD7P before you do put a board in it, your machine is a Phase 4, if you keep an eye on trademe a board for it might pop up.
Now, with the thailand made phase 6 420690 board, the board is like the phase 7, the pump and motor plug go into the pump slot and the lid lock and oob plug in one go in the lid lock slot. the earth plugs the 2 green ones go where they existed in the old board. dougsmithspares.com.au/shop/420690nzp-fisher-paykel-washing-machine-motor-control-module-pcb/ move the mouse curser to the image in this link and look at the plug slots.
It's goes to the water level sensor. As the bowl fills with water, the air pressure in that pipe increases and there's a sensor on the circuit board that measures the pressure and switches off the water supply at the Low Medium or High level
Awesome thanks for the upload and sharing. I am new to electronics but geeky and just tried this. Could you let me know if I am wrong here.... If I got a reading of 10, ohms between the brown and white but 33ohms for the others, does that mean there's a short somewhere on that brown and white circuit? (Situation is machine appears dead but is getting 240v in)
The brown and white wires are for the drain pump. 10 ohms is far to low for a 240v machine. It should be around 36ohms. This means the pump has burnt out and that may have cooked the motor control module or the main fuses. You could watch my "how to remove the pump" video and then this one ua-cam.com/video/PiDXHoRdYTs/v-deo.html Replace the pump if it's faulty You could then unplug the motor control and remove it. Open the case up and remove the circuit board. You are looking for 2 cylindrical fuses which look like this : www.ebay.com/itm/T2A-Cylindrical-Fuse-250V-Cylindrical-Fuse-Round-LCD-Power-Slow-Break-Fuses-/223498759950?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Test the fuses with the multimeter on the solder on the back of the fuse and you should get a reading of 0.0X . If there is no reading, then the fuse has popped and needs replacing with the correct amperage fuse and the machine MIGHT work again. Hope this helps.
@@paulywooly Cheers thanks so much! When I opened it up it looked like the earth was a little loose, could this have caused it? (it was in the slot but not pushed all the way in)
Hi Ya , nice instructional video , i got no power on , how to tell if its the motor control board or control panel and how to test these , my machine stopped with electrical burning smell on the rinse cycle i fitted new pump it then did one complete wash then stopped on next wash at rinse cycle with no power control panel lights ? . i tested all components shown in this video and all good any thoughts what the problem appreciated
A burning smell obviously isn't good. I would suggest unplugging the motor control unit and open it up with the 3 small clips on the side. Look and smell for any burnt out components. There should be 2 main fuses on the board you need to test with a multimeter across the pins. You should get a reading of 0.0x ohms. I have replaced fuses in the past but it's usually too late and the damage to the main board is already done and needs to be replaced. The fuses look like this rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192572897591 Good luck
Hi Paul, I have a F & P MW -513 Quicksmart that my wife said “ started beeping & then stopped”. It now has no display on display module. Tested and it has 240v to motor control module. Both printed P.C.Bs look fine and both fuses seem ok. Tested voltages on motor control module and all test points to display module read 113v to earth. Seems to have a 120V transformer. I tested components and got the following readings- Motor - 40ohms/ 40ohms / 40 ohms. Water solenoids - 57.7ohms / 58 ohms. Lid Lock- 64.6 ohms. Water Pump - 93.4 ohms ( seems high). All tests were done with good quality Fluke meter so should be right. Tried pushing wash temp/ power button to obtain fault code but no display lights. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? Please advise -
Hi guys, can anyone help with a suggestion on why my F&P 5.5 smart drive won't pump out the water . I've removed the pump , cleaned it and refitted it still no luck. I've also checked the motor control unit with the multi metre as per the video and all was within specs. One strange thing I have noticed since playing around with it is when the power is turned on the machine will constantly hum very slightly. I've never noticed this before. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
I have a F & P GWL11-96151-B. Original error code 131. Upon taking the washer apart to replace the rotor position sensor I found that water from the thermistor had run into the control board area. I checked the diverter valve and pump both were fine. I replaced the bearings last year. Upon checking the Ohms on the motor control board they all checked out fine except for the brown and white wires to the pump. The pump wires are attached to a 20v fuse (not blown) and had an ohm reading of 8.2. Does the fuse added to the wires change the ohms? The washer fills and drains fine but when it is supposed to spin it makes a jerking motion back and forth about 5 times then gives a code of 248. Plus when plugging the washer into the wall I get the same flashing 248 code. What should I try next? I am a widow and I can't afford a new washer.
The pump ohms test fine if you have the 110 volt USA model. The following is copied directly from the service manual for error 248 hope this helps: 248. (11111000) SmartPump Top Up Fault More than 6 attempts have been made to top-up the water level in the bowl during recirc. This then signifies that the flapper valve has not closed full and some water is diverting to drain. Primary Source: Poor Flapper Seal. Action: 1) Clean any foreign objects out of the pump, concentrating especially on the flapper and drain/recirc port areas. 2) Remove the flapper to ensure no foreign objects exists below and around the flapper. 3) Check for flapper damage, especially the lip seals. If damaged, replace. Secondary Source: Cap not tight, warped, damaged (worn). Action: 1) Check that the hood/cap are tight. If loose and screws are difficult to tighten, foreign objects could be in screw boss. Remove pump fully and inspect/replace if in doubt. 2) Check the cap is not warped or it is not excessively worn in the area where it contacts the flapper. Replace the cap if warped or worn. Tertiary Source: Damaged Pump Housing Port Action: Check there is no excessive wear to the pump housing port caused by foreign objects. Replace pump if necessary. Quaternary Source: Motor Control Module. Action: Replace Motor Control Module.
Hi Paul, great video! The drain pump in my MW511 won't turn off. I have tested all items on the board and the resistance readings are fine. I get a cold water valve error (49) but the resistance on the valve is fine and water stops/starts fine. As soon as I turn the machine on at the wall the pump starts. I'm stumped, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
That's a faulty transistor which controls the pump on the main board in the motor controller. You maybe able to get it repaired at an electronics repair shop. Or a new motor control unit is needed.
@@paulywooly I had the same problem on a Phase 2 Control Module. I diagnosed a faulty Triac BT 136, and also changed a resistor on the gate. Also changed out the Opto Triac Driver. It worked perfectly after that. I am self-taught on electronics, and it is a marvellous feeling to see it all work again.
I am getting an error code 49 with my gwl 11 washer. The valves appear to be testing fine at 61/64 ohms. Is there a way to test the motor controller, or is it apparent to just replace it?
It'll be a faulty power transistor on the controller board. You could watch my other video that MAY help but it is for a later model than yours. If you are an electronics wizzkid or know somebody who is, you can trace the tracks on the board from the water valve connections plug will lead straight to the power transistor of which will be 2. They may even be labelled hot/cold. Otherwise replace the whole control board. ua-cam.com/video/blfuyxuJUEY/v-deo.html
Yep 33 sounds good when it's cold. But if the pump is faulty it will give a different reading when it's been working.. Run the pump for 3 mins and test again, or even better tilt the machine back and feel the pump. If it's hot, it's faulty. It should be slightly warm.
Hi Paul, I have a GW712. Stopped working (including no lights on the display) and a strange smell was apparent. I removed the display panel and found the display wires had burned the insulation on a couple of wires. I reinsulated the burned ones and reconnected. Still no lights on the display but when I press the power button, I can hear a relay click in the control module. Any thoughts whether I just need to replace the control module and/or the display module?
That certainly sounds like a major meltdown. I would remove the motor control module by unplugging all the wires and the tube. Maybe take a photo of the module first. Undo the 3 clips on the side and open it up and pull out the circuit board. You'll have to break the warranty sticker. You need to look for any burnt components or check the 2 fuses on the board with a multimeter. They look like this: www.webstaurantstore.com/hobart-00-914782-00007-fuse-printed-circuit-board/HP3009147820.html If one or both has blown you need to replace them. But sometimes if they have blown usually means the board has had a meltdown. If there is any burning or black areas on the circuit board means it's completely cooked. Normally the display modules are very reliable, but you could check inside that too.
Thanks so much Paul. I will take a look. My MCB is an SD12. I have found a second hand one on gumtree which is an SD11. Are they likely to be interchangeable?
@@peters5493 best to stick with the SD12. Some SD11's have the plug sockets in different positions. It's best to get the same part number on the sticker starting with 420...
@@paulywooly Hi Paul, did the checks as per your amazing video and found that the pump resistance is only 1.7ohms, which is very low - suggest a. Interval pump fault short? The MCB looks fine including the fuses. Is a shorted pump likely to cause display wiring to burn without impact to the MCB? I would think. The display would give you an error code?
@@peters5493 Good on you for checking the pump resistance. When the pump shorts out it doesn't usually give any error code at all but it is very very common for the pump to pack up. My other pump test video explains this. I would definitely get a new or good second hand pump and hopefully should solve your problem fingers crossed
Hi Paul, I have a 6 year old Fisher & Paykel Washsmart Eco washing machine (WA7960E1) that wont turn on. It happened after I paused it during the rinse cycle, then tried to go back to the wash cycle, but every time I tried to get the cycle to start, the machine instead would only advance to the next cycle and only started working at the spin cycle. So, I switched it off at the wall and now it won’t turn on. I have tested it in another working socket, but it still won’t turn on and I have left for for a number of hours (and days) and it hasn’t reset, which has worked in the past when I have turned it off at the wall. I am wondering if it might be the power supply, as this has happened before, but, until now, it has turned back on after a time. If it is that, is that something that can be fixed? And can I test anything to try to isolate the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like a faulty motor control, if there is no sign of life when it switched on at the wall. There is a main fuse inside the unit that can be replaced but 9 times out of 10 it usually pops again when it's powered up. It's usually easier to buy another motor control online.
@@paulywooly Okay, thanks for you speedy response. Where is the fuse located so I can see if it looks like it has blown? I had the control panel off, but I didn't notice any fuses there. If it is the motor control, that looks to be quite an expensive part (over $300)… it's probably not worth replacing, to be honest, with the cost of labour on top of it. I will see if I can find the fuse, but it is sounding like a new machine. Pity, this one is only 6 years old and there aren't any other brands that make a top loader with an agitator, none actually, so it looks like another Fisher and Paykel, but I am not really all that happy that this one has only lasted 6 years. I had my last one for 19 years (it was also F&P). Obviously they are not what they used to be, but I expected more from a machine that cost nearly $1000 6 years ago and is now well over $1000 to replace.
@@lyndellemcmillan1781 if you are up to opening the control module and able to use a multimeter you can test the 2 fuses that looks like this a.aliexpress.com/_mrJfQvW
MW612 is a Phase 7 machine. Sounds like the pump has caused the motor controller fuse to pop, but I maybe wrong. You maybe in for a new motor controller. You can easily pull it apart and check the fuse. There is 2 within the unit. They look like a little red-brown coloured cylinder with 2A written on it. Check with a multimeter on the back of the fuse for a reading. But unfortunately once they have blown usually means the unit is cooked. If you buy a new unit make sure it's the correct part number written on the sticker. Should start with 420... Sorry I can't be much more help
Hi Paul, I have Fisher and Paykel Smartdrive washing machine, I accidently pressed the pause button when the machine was on full spinning cycle and the machine stopped, now there is no lights on display, looks like no power, any suggestions please
It's very unusual for pausing during the spin cycle for the machine to die like that. Turn the machine off at the wall for 1 minute and switch on again. If there is no sign of life means the main fuse in the control module has popped for some reason. It means replacement of the motor control unit under the display panel. Or if you are handy with knowledge of circuit boards you could replace the fuse if that is the culprit. Look for one or 2 of these www.webstaurantstore.com/hobart-00-914782-00007-fuse-printed-circuit-board/HP3009147820.html
MW058 are colour coded yellow. They are quite rare to try and find but can still be bought online. This Ozzy website slows you the type you need ... www.stareast.com.au/product/896-f-p-yellow-control-board-instructions
Its annoying me mostly when i stay with Gran, everytime i hear i have to close the door. So can you respond if you can tell me what to do without pulling anything out of the machine.
If it's making such a loud noise it's probably when it's on the spin cycle means it needs new bearings and seals. Those models were made in 1996 so probably time for a new one. Or get the bearings replaced by a washing machine repair man
Ok MW059 models have a bad designed motor controller (grey in colour). In my opinion, from your symptoms, it sounds like the pump transistors in the motor controller have failed. If you can get a new motor controller for that model...good luck... They have been obsolete for years.
Hi Paul, Thank you for your amazing videos! I have a GWL10US, so I believe I have the Phase 5 control board. (Not sure which series, but it was purchased in 5/2001.) My washer gave a code of 104, I think. The unit would start a load of clothes normally, then after about 5 minutes or so, the machine stopped. When I checked this, there was water and clothes inside, and the controls were all completely off. I was able to power on the unit and advance it to rinse to get the unit to empty the water, then it cut off again. I first checked the water drain pump, and it looked okay as far as nothing was caught in it, so I put it back in. In the US, for this model, a new Motor Controller(426930P) is no longer available; same for the pump (420324P). Any knowledge of where I can get this shipped from abroad? I could only find this site that attempts repairing faulty controllers: www.genuineapplianceparts.com/item/426930P_Fisher_Paykel_Washer_Motor_Control_GWL10US/326 For this testing you demonstrate, you are testing the motor control assembly (and not the Display Module, right)? I believe you say in the video that the display cannot be tested, right? Also, to start this testing, is it necessary to disconnect the water hookups? (It looks like in your video the water attachments are still connected, but not sure.) How do you test the Wash Motor Resistance per Winding and phase to phase? I have a multimeter, but not sure where to put it for these tests. Also, I did not check the RPS as you demonstrated in another video since I was trying to go in order of p. 27 of the service manual based on this error code which says to first measure resistance of the pump and replace pump if less than 33 Ohms, then replace display module, then replace motor controller, and lastly replace the RPS: www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardwasher/fisher--paykel/200437---washer---gwl10us--.pdf Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated! We love this machine and really want to see if it can be fixed.
Hi sorry for late reply. Error 104 is very rare and in all my years of fixing these machines I have only had this once. It turned out to be a dirty connection. I disconnected the display module plug at the control module and got a sharp needle and scratched the connections to get a better contact and all was good after that. A couple of questions I need answered by you. What color is your module ....dark grey or is it brown. 426930P on appliance websites comes up as being either colour What voltage is your machine or mains supply .. 110volt OR 240volt Check the sticker on the back of the machine and also the sticker on the pump as to which voltage it runs. There is no need to disconnect the water hoses for any of these tests. Check the video at exactly 5.00 mins and check there is 32ohms across any 2 of the 3 motor wires (red, blue, yellow) The other 2 on that plug connector ( should be brown and white) are for the pump. A 240v machine should read 33 ohms across the pump and a 110v machine the pump should read 7 ohms (both at 20 degrees Celcius) BUT .....A very common problem......The pump can open circuit when it gets warm even after only a few seconds of being switched on. This can stop the machine and even give false fault codes. To test the pump. Enter diagnostic mode: Switch ON at the wall but do not turn the machine on Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then push POWER The machine should give 2 beeps. Press the REGULAR button and the pump should activate. Leave the pump on for at least one minute. If the pump does not run for that minute, it is faulty. If the pump does run for a minute then push REGULAR button again and it will turn off. Press the POWER button to turn machine off then turn OFF at the wall. Tip the machine back against the wall and reach under and feel the temperature of the pump. It should be only slightly warm. If you yell out "OUCH" then the pump has overheated and needs replacing. I hope this helps for starters. Please get back to me if you need more help and we'll keep working thru it.
@@paulywooly Hi Paul, I apologize for the delayed reply. Answers to your questions: My module color is dark grey. Voltage of machine according to sticker on the back of machine= 110-120 Volts. Also, the service manual for this machine lists "Electric Supply - 120 Volts/60Hz." The sticker on the pump lists its voltage as 230 Volts. (Manual specifies, "230V AC/ 0.7Amps/ 80watts (SELNI)." I ended up finding a new pump motor for my GW10US at a company in Australia, ordered it and received it, but haven't installed it yet since I want to do the test you recommend with my current pump. (The replacement pump label states "230V, 50Hzm 100W", so I hope that will be compatible.) I did all the testing you mentioned in video except the water values, as I could not get the wire clip loose and was afraid to pull harder in fear of damaging these. Results are inline with the ideal except the following: the pump tested at 29.2 Ohms instead of 33, the OOB tested at .1 instead of 00.6, & the red and black wires on the Lid switch registered nothing. On further inspection, saw that the OOB switch connecters located under the Motor control board were severely corroded, so I order a new "Out of Balance Switch - Sealed OOB Switch Kit" from F & P, installed it, but haven't tested it. I was thinking of trying to check the Motor Control board for any blown fuses, do resistance testing, etc. but I am not confident I know what I am doing, nor do I know if I really need to do this, especially since the OOB had corrosion, and I've read blog commenters saying this caused the machine to not work. Should I next, test my old pump, per your instructions, or install the new pump and test everything, or should I get it together and open the motor control board and investigate, and then test/change the pump? Your advance is saving my life and my laundry. A million thanks for helping this far, Paul!
Ok the 29 ohms reading is too low and means that pump windings are slowly burning out so that's a good start to your diagnosis. If any 1 of the 2 fuses have blown inside the control unit you will not get the machine to light up at all so they will be ok. . BUT ...what I have seen in the past that if there's any sign of washing powder under the display panel where it shouldn't be, it can make it's way inside the unit and corrode the tracks on the circuit board. The unit is easily undone with the 3 tags and the 2 halves will open up. It's a good idea to inspect the mother board for corrosion. Sorry I have no experience of 120 volt machines and whether the pumps are interchangeable. I suppose the pump will either work or it won't. Your OOB switch reads correctly if it is 0.1 ohms The lid switch is probably the magnetic type. The magnet is located inside the lid itself. You will see a flat area on the right hand edge of the lid. This magnet pulls the contacts of the switch switch together when the lid is closed. The switch is located under the top right side of the machine. You can undo the 2 screws under the rubber caps along the front and lift the whole top panel up about 6 inches and you will see the switch on the right. You can test it by using another magnet and hold it against the plastic where the lid would sit.
@@paulywooly I ended up only checking the green side of the motor controller inner card, as I had some trouble trying to get the card fully out to flip it to the other side. After putting everything back together, I tested the newly installed pump in diagnostic mode and it was working! So, I tried washing a few items. Sadly, the machine was filling up but leaking out underneath. Lots of water coming through the new pump and the adjacent black C-like hose--which is a new problem. As far as the hose leaking, it may be from me fidgeting around under there after the machine first stopped working because I was checking various possible causes for the trouble. Perhaps I did not reattach that black hose tight enough when I checked the diverter valve. Regarding the new pump motor leaking, the only thing that I can think of to investigate is the company that I purchased it from did mention in their video to tighten the three screws above the pump to prevent leaking (which I did upon install) or that the o-ring seal be changed to a thicker o-ring, which can be purchased separately. ua-cam.com/video/-TxB00jxqTE/v-deo.html I'll check on this with the company in Australia on Monday. Any knowledge on thicker o-ring for the pump? Also, ever had a problem with leaking from the pump and resolved it? Lastly, do they sell replacement black hoses in case I've punctured my original? Thanks once again, Paul, for your help!!
This helped me a lot. Thank you!
The newer Phase 5 boards are brown and they have better reliability than the greys in my opinion. I have a Fisher & Paykel MW059NZ which hasn’t given me any trouble since I’ve had it because it has the newer board.
blue green yellow where some of the best - once u got into grey - they always blow a fuse most times - brown is somewhat betetr but not by much - seems water form values gets into them- still there fun to pick up and repair and make some pocket money
Thank you Paul. Very much appreciate.
Thanks for the great video. Really appreciated. Thanks
Anything else you need to know just ask
Oh another thing too to realise is the phase 6 boards are now like phase 7 design which is really confusing. So when you go to change a phase 6 make sure it’s the correct part number as well as the existing board.
Yes. All the brown modules are different. It must be the correct part number
Thats why i said you must check the part number on the old board before you buy the new board as it'll be different to the older ones. SD11 and SD12 have the same part number. IW11 boards are same brown board but different part numbers.
Phase 7 its not affected coz they've had the same design from the start, mainly Phase 6.
Great video. I will now have a look at my machine
Thnks for that, so informative
Thanks.
Regarding your F&P if you do find a board for it make sure you carry out the tests shown in this video here ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.htmlsi=MzXtp6Hu75JdUD7P before you do put a board in it, your machine is a Phase 4, if you keep an eye on trademe a board for it might pop up.
Now, with the thailand made phase 6 420690 board, the board is like the phase 7, the pump and motor plug go into the pump slot and the lid lock and oob plug in one go in the lid lock slot. the earth plugs the 2 green ones go where they existed in the old board.
dougsmithspares.com.au/shop/420690nzp-fisher-paykel-washing-machine-motor-control-module-pcb/
move the mouse curser to the image in this link and look at the plug slots.
Brilliant! Thank you!!!
MUCH APPRECIATED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What does that clear pipe do why does it need to run up to the circuit board? Just interested. Thanks
It's goes to the water level sensor. As the bowl fills with water, the air pressure in that pipe increases and there's a sensor on the circuit board that measures the pressure and switches off the water supply at the Low Medium or High level
Awesome thanks for the upload and sharing. I am new to electronics but geeky and just tried this. Could you let me know if I am wrong here.... If I got a reading of 10, ohms between the brown and white but 33ohms for the others, does that mean there's a short somewhere on that brown and white circuit? (Situation is machine appears dead but is getting 240v in)
The brown and white wires are for the drain pump. 10 ohms is far to low for a 240v machine. It should be around 36ohms. This means the pump has burnt out and that may have cooked the motor control module or the main fuses. You could watch my "how to remove the pump" video and then this one
ua-cam.com/video/PiDXHoRdYTs/v-deo.html
Replace the pump if it's faulty
You could then unplug the motor control and remove it. Open the case up and remove the circuit board. You are looking for 2 cylindrical fuses which look like this :
www.ebay.com/itm/T2A-Cylindrical-Fuse-250V-Cylindrical-Fuse-Round-LCD-Power-Slow-Break-Fuses-/223498759950?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Test the fuses with the multimeter on the solder on the back of the fuse and you should get a reading of 0.0X .
If there is no reading, then the fuse has popped and needs replacing with the correct amperage fuse and the machine MIGHT work again.
Hope this helps.
@@paulywooly Cheers thanks so much! When I opened it up it looked like the earth was a little loose, could this have caused it? (it was in the slot but not pushed all the way in)
@@paulywooly Thank you so much for your generosity making your knowledge available on the internet
@@danzacjones no the earth wire us separate from the pump internal wiring
Hi Ya , nice instructional video , i got no power on , how to tell if its the motor control board or control panel and how to test these , my machine stopped with electrical burning smell on the rinse cycle i fitted new pump it then did one complete wash then stopped on next wash at rinse cycle with no power control panel lights ? . i tested all components shown in this video and all good any thoughts what the problem appreciated
A burning smell obviously isn't good. I would suggest unplugging the motor control unit and open it up with the 3 small clips on the side. Look and smell for any burnt out components.
There should be 2 main fuses on the board you need to test with a multimeter across the pins. You should get a reading of 0.0x ohms. I have replaced fuses in the past but it's usually too late and the damage to the main board is already done and needs to be replaced. The fuses look like this rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192572897591
Good luck
Hi Paul, I have a F & P MW -513 Quicksmart that my wife said “ started beeping & then stopped”. It now has no display on display module. Tested and it has 240v to motor control module. Both printed P.C.Bs look fine and both fuses seem ok. Tested voltages on motor control module and all test points to display module read 113v to earth. Seems to have a 120V transformer.
I tested components and got the following readings-
Motor - 40ohms/ 40ohms / 40 ohms. Water solenoids - 57.7ohms / 58 ohms. Lid Lock- 64.6 ohms.
Water Pump - 93.4 ohms ( seems high).
All tests were done with good quality Fluke meter so should be right.
Tried pushing wash temp/ power button to obtain fault code but no display lights.
Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
Please advise -
I know it was 3 years ago but what was your outcome? I am currently having the same issues as you had. Thanks!
Hi guys, can anyone help with a suggestion on why my F&P 5.5 smart drive won't pump out the water . I've removed the pump , cleaned it and refitted it still no luck. I've also checked the motor control unit with the multi metre as per the video and all was within specs. One strange thing I have noticed since playing around with it is when the power is turned on the machine will constantly hum very slightly. I've never noticed this before. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
I have a F & P GWL11-96151-B. Original error code 131. Upon taking the washer apart to replace the rotor position sensor I found that water from the thermistor had run into the control board area. I checked the diverter valve and pump both were fine. I replaced the bearings last year. Upon checking the Ohms on the motor control board they all checked out fine except for the brown and white wires to the pump. The pump wires are attached to a 20v fuse (not blown) and had an ohm reading of 8.2. Does the fuse added to the wires change the ohms? The washer fills and drains fine but when it is supposed to spin it makes a jerking motion back and forth about 5 times then gives a code of 248. Plus when plugging the washer into the wall I get the same flashing 248 code. What should I try next? I am a widow and I can't afford a new washer.
The pump ohms test fine if you have the 110 volt USA model. The following is copied directly from the service manual for error 248 hope this helps:
248. (11111000) SmartPump Top Up Fault
More than 6 attempts have been made to top-up the water level in the bowl during recirc. This then signifies that the flapper valve has not closed full and some water is diverting to drain.
Primary Source: Poor Flapper Seal.
Action: 1) Clean any foreign objects out of the pump, concentrating especially on the flapper and drain/recirc port areas.
2) Remove the flapper to ensure no foreign objects exists below and around the flapper.
3) Check for flapper damage, especially the lip seals. If damaged,
replace.
Secondary Source: Cap not tight, warped, damaged (worn).
Action: 1) Check that the hood/cap are tight. If loose and screws are difficult to tighten, foreign objects could be in screw boss. Remove pump fully and inspect/replace if in doubt.
2) Check the cap is not warped or it is not excessively worn in the area where it contacts the flapper. Replace the cap if warped or worn.
Tertiary Source: Damaged Pump Housing Port
Action: Check there is no excessive wear to the pump housing port caused
by foreign objects. Replace pump if necessary. Quaternary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Replace Motor Control Module.
Hi Paul, great video!
The drain pump in my MW511 won't turn off. I have tested all items on the board and the resistance readings are fine. I get a cold water valve error (49) but the resistance on the valve is fine and water stops/starts fine.
As soon as I turn the machine on at the wall the pump starts. I'm stumped, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
That's a faulty transistor which controls the pump on the main board in the motor controller. You maybe able to get it repaired at an electronics repair shop. Or a new motor control unit is needed.
Thank you! I suspected It would need a new board. Might just be time for a new machine as we have had it for a while..
@@paulywooly I had the same problem on a Phase 2 Control Module. I diagnosed a faulty Triac BT 136, and also changed a resistor on the gate. Also changed out the Opto Triac Driver. It worked perfectly after that. I am self-taught on electronics, and it is a marvellous feeling to see it all work again.
I wish I had the knowledge to do that. I've got boxes of dead modules and would love to fix them.
I am getting an error code 49 with my gwl 11 washer. The valves appear to be testing fine at 61/64 ohms. Is there a way to test the motor controller, or is it apparent to just replace it?
It'll be a faulty power transistor on the controller board. You could watch my other video that MAY help but it is for a later model than yours. If you are an electronics wizzkid or know somebody who is, you can trace the tracks on the board from the water valve connections plug will lead straight to the power transistor of which will be 2. They may even be labelled hot/cold. Otherwise replace the whole control board.
ua-cam.com/video/blfuyxuJUEY/v-deo.html
@@paulywooly Thank you. Doug
Me again sorry. If I get a reading of around 33 at the stator/ pump plug at the motor control unit , is it safe to say the pump is good?
Yep 33 sounds good when it's cold. But if the pump is faulty it will give a different reading when it's been working.. Run the pump for 3 mins and test again, or even better tilt the machine back and feel the pump. If it's hot, it's faulty. It should be slightly warm.
Paul P The pump will not engage at all. It just throbs every 5 secs or so like its trying to start but nothing.
Thx
Hi Paul, I have a GW712. Stopped working (including no lights on the display) and a strange smell was apparent. I removed the display panel and found the display wires had burned the insulation on a couple of wires. I reinsulated the burned ones and reconnected. Still no lights on the display but when I press the power button, I can hear a relay click in the control module. Any thoughts whether I just need to replace the control module and/or the display module?
That certainly sounds like a major meltdown. I would remove the motor control module by unplugging all the wires and the tube. Maybe take a photo of the module first. Undo the 3 clips on the side and open it up and pull out the circuit board. You'll have to break the warranty sticker. You need to look for any burnt components or check the 2 fuses on the board with a multimeter. They look like this:
www.webstaurantstore.com/hobart-00-914782-00007-fuse-printed-circuit-board/HP3009147820.html
If one or both has blown you need to replace them. But sometimes if they have blown usually means the board has had a meltdown. If there is any burning or black areas on the circuit board means it's completely cooked.
Normally the display modules are very reliable, but you could check inside that too.
Thanks so much Paul. I will take a look. My MCB is an SD12. I have found a second hand one on gumtree which is an SD11. Are they likely to be interchangeable?
@@peters5493 best to stick with the SD12. Some SD11's have the plug sockets in different positions. It's best to get the same part number on the sticker starting with 420...
@@paulywooly Hi Paul, did the checks as per your amazing video and found that the pump resistance is only 1.7ohms, which is very low - suggest a. Interval pump fault short? The MCB looks fine including the fuses. Is a shorted pump likely to cause display wiring to burn without impact to the MCB? I would think. The display would give you an error code?
@@peters5493 Good on you for checking the pump resistance. When the pump shorts out it doesn't usually give any error code at all but it is very very common for the pump to pack up. My other pump test video explains this. I would definitely get a new or good second hand pump and hopefully should solve your problem fingers crossed
Hi Paul, I have a 6 year old Fisher & Paykel Washsmart Eco washing machine (WA7960E1) that wont turn on. It happened after I paused it during the rinse cycle, then tried to go back to the wash cycle, but every time I tried to get the cycle to start, the machine instead would only advance to the next cycle and only started working at the spin cycle. So, I switched it off at the wall and now it won’t turn on. I have tested it in another working socket, but it still won’t turn on and I have left for for a number of hours (and days) and it hasn’t reset, which has worked in the past when I have turned it off at the wall.
I am wondering if it might be the power supply, as this has happened before, but, until now, it has turned back on after a time. If it is that, is that something that can be fixed? And can I test anything to try to isolate the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like a faulty motor control, if there is no sign of life when it switched on at the wall. There is a main fuse inside the unit that can be replaced but 9 times out of 10 it usually pops again when it's powered up. It's usually easier to buy another motor control online.
@@paulywooly Okay, thanks for you speedy response. Where is the fuse located so I can see if it looks like it has blown? I had the control panel off, but I didn't notice any fuses there. If it is the motor control, that looks to be quite an expensive part (over $300)… it's probably not worth replacing, to be honest, with the cost of labour on top of it. I will see if I can find the fuse, but it is sounding like a new machine. Pity, this one is only 6 years old and there aren't any other brands that make a top loader with an agitator, none actually, so it looks like another Fisher and Paykel, but I am not really all that happy that this one has only lasted 6 years. I had my last one for 19 years (it was also F&P). Obviously they are not what they used to be, but I expected more from a machine that cost nearly $1000 6 years ago and is now well over $1000 to replace.
@@lyndellemcmillan1781 if you are up to opening the control module and able to use a multimeter you can test the 2 fuses that looks like this
a.aliexpress.com/_mrJfQvW
Your model number you gave me doesn't match anything I have in my books. Please check again
@@paulywooly Yeah, I see that now. Its the WA7060E1. Sorry.
Hi Paul my smart drive was smoking at the back replaced the water pump cause it was burned but now my smart drive don't turn on no power
What is the model number please.
Mkt or mw612nz
MW612 is a Phase 7 machine. Sounds like the pump has caused the motor controller fuse to pop, but I maybe wrong. You maybe in for a new motor controller. You can easily pull it apart and check the fuse. There is 2 within the unit. They look like a little red-brown coloured cylinder with 2A written on it. Check with a multimeter on the back of the fuse for a reading. But unfortunately once they have blown usually means the unit is cooked. If you buy a new unit make sure it's the correct part number written on the sticker. Should start with 420... Sorry I can't be much more help
Hi Paul, I have Fisher and Paykel Smartdrive washing machine, I accidently pressed the pause button when the machine was on full spinning cycle and the machine stopped, now there is no lights on display, looks like no power, any suggestions please
What's the model number please, on the sticker on the back left of the machine
@@paulywooly MW513
It's very unusual for pausing during the spin cycle for the machine to die like that. Turn the machine off at the wall for 1 minute and switch on again. If there is no sign of life means the main fuse in the control module has popped for some reason. It means replacement of the motor control unit under the display panel. Or if you are handy with knowledge of circuit boards you could replace the fuse if that is the culprit.
Look for one or 2 of these
www.webstaurantstore.com/hobart-00-914782-00007-fuse-printed-circuit-board/HP3009147820.html
Check that there is power at the wall socket too
Okay thank you so much, I will check the control board fuse, actually I accidentally hit the pause button
Hey Paul, my grandmas washing machine is a MW058 Fisher & Paykel, can you send me a link what motor controller it might need one day.
MW058 are colour coded yellow. They are quite rare to try and find but can still be bought online. This Ozzy website slows you the type you need ... www.stareast.com.au/product/896-f-p-yellow-control-board-instructions
Its annoying me mostly when i stay with Gran, everytime i hear i have to close the door. So can you respond if you can tell me what to do without pulling anything out of the machine.
If it's making such a loud noise it's probably when it's on the spin cycle means it needs new bearings and seals. Those models were made in 1996 so probably time for a new one. Or get the bearings replaced by a washing machine repair man
What should the thermostat reading be if I was to do this?
The thermistor reading should be around 10 kilo ohms at 20 degrees Celsius
Cool! It just surprised me that you didnt test it in this video.
Sorry I should of said the product number is 93163
What's the model number not product number
Paul P The model number is MW059AU. Thanks.
Ok MW059 models have a bad designed motor controller (grey in colour). In my opinion, from your symptoms, it sounds like the pump transistors in the motor controller have failed. If you can get a new motor controller for that model...good luck... They have been obsolete for years.
Paul P okay thank you. Looks like it's going to the tip. Thanks again for your help.
the pumps and rps are the down-fall of the smart drives.
I totally agree
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your amazing videos!
I have a GWL10US, so I believe I have the Phase 5 control board. (Not sure which series, but it was purchased in 5/2001.) My washer gave a code of 104, I think. The unit would start a load of clothes normally, then after about 5 minutes or so, the machine stopped. When I checked this, there was water and clothes inside, and the controls were all completely off. I was able to power on the unit and advance it to rinse to get the unit to empty the water, then it cut off again.
I first checked the water drain pump, and it looked okay as far as nothing was caught in it, so I put it back in. In the US, for this model, a new Motor Controller(426930P) is no longer available; same for the pump (420324P). Any knowledge of where I can get this shipped from abroad? I could only find this site that attempts repairing faulty controllers: www.genuineapplianceparts.com/item/426930P_Fisher_Paykel_Washer_Motor_Control_GWL10US/326
For this testing you demonstrate, you are testing the motor control assembly (and not the Display Module, right)? I believe you say in the video that the display cannot be tested, right? Also, to start this testing, is it necessary to disconnect the water hookups? (It looks like in your video the water attachments are still connected, but not sure.) How do you test the Wash Motor Resistance per Winding and phase to phase? I have a multimeter, but not sure where to put it for these tests. Also, I did not check the RPS as you demonstrated in another video since I was trying to go in order of p. 27 of the service manual based on this error code which says to first measure resistance of the pump and replace pump if less than 33 Ohms, then replace display module, then replace motor controller, and lastly replace the RPS: www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardwasher/fisher--paykel/200437---washer---gwl10us--.pdf
Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated! We love this machine and really want to see if it can be fixed.
Hi sorry for late reply. Error 104 is very rare and in all my years of fixing these machines I have only had this once. It turned out to be a dirty connection. I disconnected the display module plug at the control module and got a sharp needle and scratched the connections to get a better contact and all was good after that.
A couple of questions I need answered by you.
What color is your module ....dark grey or is it brown. 426930P on appliance websites comes up as being either colour
What voltage is your machine or mains supply .. 110volt OR 240volt
Check the sticker on the back of the machine and also the sticker on the pump as to which voltage it runs.
There is no need to disconnect the water hoses for any of these tests.
Check the video at exactly 5.00 mins and check there is 32ohms across any 2 of the 3 motor wires (red, blue, yellow)
The other 2 on that plug connector ( should be brown and white) are for the pump. A 240v machine should read 33 ohms across the pump and a 110v machine the pump should read 7 ohms (both at 20 degrees Celcius)
BUT .....A very common problem......The pump can open circuit when it gets warm even after only a few seconds of being switched on. This can stop the machine and even give false fault codes.
To test the pump.
Enter diagnostic mode: Switch ON at the wall but do not turn the machine on
Press and hold the WASH TEMP DOWN button and then push POWER
The machine should give 2 beeps.
Press the REGULAR button and the pump should activate.
Leave the pump on for at least one minute. If the pump does not run for that minute, it is faulty.
If the pump does run for a minute then push REGULAR button again and it will turn off. Press the POWER button to turn machine off then turn OFF at the wall.
Tip the machine back against the wall and reach under and feel the temperature of the pump. It should be only slightly warm. If you yell out "OUCH" then the pump has overheated and needs replacing.
I hope this helps for starters. Please get back to me if you need more help and we'll keep working thru it.
@@paulywooly
Hi Paul,
I apologize for the delayed reply. Answers to your questions:
My module color is dark grey.
Voltage of machine according to sticker on the back of machine= 110-120 Volts. Also, the service manual for this machine lists "Electric Supply - 120 Volts/60Hz."
The sticker on the pump lists its voltage as 230 Volts. (Manual specifies, "230V AC/ 0.7Amps/ 80watts (SELNI)."
I ended up finding a new pump motor for my GW10US at a company in Australia, ordered it and received it, but haven't installed it yet since I want to do the test you recommend with my current pump. (The replacement pump label states "230V, 50Hzm 100W", so I hope that will be compatible.)
I did all the testing you mentioned in video except the water values, as I could not get the wire clip loose and was afraid to pull harder in fear of damaging these. Results are inline with the ideal except the following: the pump tested at 29.2 Ohms instead of 33, the OOB tested at .1 instead of 00.6, & the red and black wires on the Lid switch registered nothing. On further inspection, saw that the OOB switch connecters located under the Motor control board were severely corroded, so I order a new "Out of Balance Switch - Sealed OOB Switch Kit" from F & P, installed it, but haven't tested it.
I was thinking of trying to check the Motor Control board for any blown fuses, do resistance testing, etc. but I am not confident I know what I am doing, nor do I know if I really need to do this, especially since the OOB had corrosion, and I've read blog commenters saying this caused the machine to not work. Should I next, test my old pump, per your instructions, or install the new pump and test everything, or should I get it together and open the motor control board and investigate, and then test/change the pump? Your advance is saving my life and my laundry. A million thanks for helping this far, Paul!
Sorry, I meant to say "Your advice is saving my life!"
Ok the 29 ohms reading is too low and means that pump windings are slowly burning out so that's a good start to your diagnosis. If any 1 of the 2 fuses have blown inside the control unit you will not get the machine to light up at all so they will be ok. . BUT ...what I have seen in the past that if there's any sign of washing powder under the display panel where it shouldn't be, it can make it's way inside the unit and corrode the tracks on the circuit board. The unit is easily undone with the 3 tags and the 2 halves will open up. It's a good idea to inspect the mother board for corrosion.
Sorry I have no experience of 120 volt machines and whether the pumps are interchangeable. I suppose the pump will either work or it won't. Your OOB switch reads correctly if it is 0.1 ohms
The lid switch is probably the magnetic type. The magnet is located inside the lid itself. You will see a flat area on the right hand edge of the lid. This magnet pulls the contacts of the switch switch together when the lid is closed. The switch is located under the top right side of the machine. You can undo the 2 screws under the rubber caps along the front and lift the whole top panel up about 6 inches and you will see the switch on the right. You can test it by using another magnet and hold it against the plastic where the lid would sit.
@@paulywooly I ended up only checking the green side of the motor controller inner card, as I had some trouble trying to get the card fully out to flip it to the other side. After putting everything back together, I tested the newly installed pump in diagnostic mode and it was working! So, I tried washing a few items. Sadly, the machine was filling up but leaking out underneath. Lots of water coming through the new pump and the adjacent black C-like hose--which is a new problem. As far as the hose leaking, it may be from me fidgeting around under there after the machine first stopped working because I was checking various possible causes for the trouble. Perhaps I did not reattach that black hose tight enough when I checked the diverter valve. Regarding the new pump motor leaking, the only thing that I can think of to investigate is the company that I purchased it from did mention in their video to tighten the three screws above the pump to prevent leaking (which I did upon install) or that the o-ring seal be changed to a thicker o-ring, which can be purchased separately. ua-cam.com/video/-TxB00jxqTE/v-deo.html
I'll check on this with the company in Australia on Monday. Any knowledge on thicker o-ring for the pump? Also, ever had a problem with leaking from the pump and resolved it? Lastly, do they sell replacement black hoses in case I've punctured my original? Thanks once again, Paul, for your help!!